Thanks for the demonstration, and I get why you provided it. I recently rebuilt a friend's freewheel bike without taking the actual freewheel apart, simply flushing and re-oiling. Not optimal, but given the value of the bike, it's all it gets. I'm working on another one now, a 24" kid's bike. Same treatment. The only way I'd do a complete freewheel overhaul is on a valuable/collectible vintage bike. In such a case, I'd probably replace the balls with brand new ones.
Thanks for your comment. I usually spray them with CRC and soak them in petrol. You're right that it's usually only viable for older unique clusters. Or people who maybe can't afford a new one. Good luck with the 24" bike.
NOTICE: Image is left-right mirrored (pay attention at the markings on the wrench). Shimano cassettes are REVERSE THREADED !!! You'll have to rotate the bearing sleeve CLOCKWISE to dismantle them and access the bearings / pawls.
Yes that is tricky because I was thinking .... Why is this race turning the regular way off when it is reverse threads. I 'm glad you pointed out VIDEO MIRRORED
Perhaps the smaller two cogs thread off the core, releasing the other three that slip on (similar to the newer cassettes?). I’ve never seen a solid core set up on these but I haven’t serviced that many
No, just turned the hub and they found their way in. I that doesn't work you can push the hub in gently and poke the pawls in with a small screwdriver.
@@UnhingedHarry You know, you are right. I never thought about that. Only worry about sticking if you're that person who rides in cold temperatures (Which I do not. Like you, I stay home when it's too cold to ride) You just made my life easier and saved me some money. Thank you! Like/Subscribe/Bell
Hey mate, do you mean the freewheel spline tool? One like this on eBay: www.ebay.com.au/itm/154758044535?itmmeta=01J0YXDZA4DG8SQ47SRN0GNBBY&hash=item24084c5b77:g:vOcAAOSwpsdhwF5K&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4OcJOFAgeRXC0LytOlZbqWFvvw%2FiwWZu5ISewdY%2FScPa0lQG1xTbeHRS1IMJLUuH6jP2F9yP4L%2FvcE1YfQDqd6TYxK8StvR4M9VqMlsOkcv48LfjDtUXV36%2BPivOEWaWsUU4HlqXmlW8lNEEfV6NSEdkiQtVBeW8pIkD2FXIxdSAdLxw7ZVl1FCk9IvZiM2K6dRjYDNhWMLN9e5cHOE%2BgG1idXxWzcgWzQPkdUiazCLjD1SUBn34muEGUmKPci%2BnZW1b%2FKEvdamue%2BLAGnNT7MDJCWjl5FQejO5fvuEy7Kf7%7Ctkp%3ABFBMlvW33Ydk
Very informative video. However, unless I miss something in your video it was three spacers on the back and one spacer on the front. It appears you installed all four spacers on the back.
this is the best video on the tube, but sir my geared cycle is not moving forward, just the pedals are moving but the bikes are not moving, what is the problem
Number of balls in the bearing of mine is 30 and 40 ( not 31 and 39 ). It seems one ball from the bottom was accidenly place to the top in the beginning.
Yes. I'm pretty sure mine had 39 and 30. But not absolutely. Shocking how easy it is to doubt yself,and then completely get confused. Even more confused when 1 or 2 of the new ones got mixed in with the old ones by my careless ness.
@@KarlosEPM A ball or two short is going to make a negligible difference provided there's plenty of lubricant. What you DO NOT want is too many bearings. Even one too many will make any cup and cone device impossible to adjust properly.
I think Chris should sort it out. Maybe super impose a statement over thise critical parts of the video to explain that it couid ruin your day and possibly your cycle to do as depicted here.
@@UnhingedHarry oh thank you so much, I was wondering why does my freewheel move so slow and realized about this explanation so now I understand and now my freewheel moves smooth
This is what I was looking for. My freewheel stopped "ratcheting", it went quiet and the pedal jumps forward sometimes with a "crack"" when I push it hard, it's so annoying. I wonder what happened inside the freewheel? Did the pawls wear out? Or the parts around it, with the notches? I don't really want to replace it because then I have to change the chain...and then everything get messed up, the shifting won't work. (I did a freewheel replacement once, without a new chain, it became a mess, lol) So I would like to try to fix the hub instead...I don't know if it would solve the forward-jump problem though, the Shimano shift is working well though, it's something with the freewheel itself that may be the problem, despite keeping it well-oiled....grrr. It just jumps a few inches forward when pedaling, then it works again so it's even hard to see why it does it. No matter what, the freewheel definitely needs a cleaning anyway. Thanks for the video!
@@UnhingedHarry Thanks mate! I live in a small swedish apartment with no access to tools and stuff, that's why I'm worried, though I could fiddle around with it...but now I forced to buy tons of tools for this problem and I don't have a spare bike. But yes, it seem that first I have to do that, to soak it somehow (no place for this procedure in my 19 m2, lol)...but I'll try to clean it. I always used this bike carefully and well-oiled and it still got this darn problem, it's really annoying. Thanks again for the advice, I'll definitely make a try.
@@UnhingedHarry Thanks mate! I was on the same thoughts, in the bike storage area I gave it tons of spraying, laying down the bike, still no ratcheting sound, it was always very quiet, what I remember. Actually this is the best bike I've ever had, it's a steel frame citybike, 7 years old, never had any problems with it...but now I can't avoid a slightly complicated freewheel service, despite always keeping it well-oiled. I like to do some small works when needed, I just wish I had a spare bike during this project, lol. Thanks for your advice!
I've torn apart about 15 freewheels in the past 6 months and here is what I found....9 times out of 10 there is 31 bearings (1/8 inch) on the top and 39 (1/8 inch) bearings on the bottom. It seems as though your video is reversed....the lock nut on top turns clockwise to loosen....Last but not least take it apart over a plastic piece that will catch the bearings if they decide to 'pop' loose.....
You really shouldn't use petrol. You should use STALE petrol. Gas is expensive where I'm from and has a shelf life about the same as milk. With so many machines I seem to find myself with gallons of the stuff unfit for internal combustion.
@@UnhingedHarry I was exaggerating a bit but I do use stale gas for cleaning run of the mill dirty petro goo. For really stubborn stuff I like lacquer thinner but careful with plastic and rubber and it's expensive also. For burnt on varnish we have a product in the US called "LA's Totally Awesome". I thought the name a bit hyperbolic until I tried it. It in fact is totally awesome for cleaning two stroke model engines without darkening the aluminum castings like caustic oven cleaners.
Most of the video is reversed image. Check the green Castro grease container at 12:29 :reversed. The freewheel ring nut is normally left hand thread, 3:00: reversed. Adjustable wrench 12IN 2:18 :reversed. 1:20 looks ok. Wedding ring? Right hand?
This helped me so much. I was about to give up after almost trying for an entire day. But I was finally able to get this freewheel open.
Thanks. I'm pleased it helped.
It's a fiddly job.
All that force from peddling the bike foward is exerted on just a couple of square millimeters of contact on those paws. That always facinated me.
Yeh I know.. You'd think they would break on the first decent hill.
Thanks for the demonstration, and I get why you provided it. I recently rebuilt a friend's freewheel bike without taking the actual freewheel apart, simply flushing and re-oiling. Not optimal, but given the value of the bike, it's all it gets. I'm working on another one now, a 24" kid's bike. Same treatment. The only way I'd do a complete freewheel overhaul is on a valuable/collectible vintage bike. In such a case, I'd probably replace the balls with brand new ones.
Thanks for your comment. I usually spray them with CRC and soak them in petrol. You're right that it's usually only viable for older unique clusters. Or people who maybe can't afford a new one. Good luck with the 24" bike.
Sieving out ball bearings! Genius! 😁😎
Genius. Thanks so much, very informative :)
Thank you for the feedback.
NOTICE:
Image is left-right mirrored (pay attention at the markings on the wrench).
Shimano cassettes are REVERSE THREADED !!! You'll have to rotate the bearing sleeve CLOCKWISE to dismantle them and access the bearings / pawls.
No matter the brand, all bearing sleeves are reverse threaded. Video is mirrored as you said.
Yes that is tricky because I was thinking .... Why is this race turning the regular way off when it is reverse threads.
I 'm glad you pointed out VIDEO MIRRORED
Great 👍 job man thank you 🙏. It helped me to reinstall it.
Very helpful, I have the same, Singapore...
Nice
just spray penetrating oil in the gaps and drain out the grease, then add a good triflow oil in there...should be good after that.
Yes I've done that in the past too. Soaked in petrol etc.
Perhaps the smaller two cogs thread off the core, releasing the other three that slip on (similar to the newer cassettes?). I’ve never seen a solid core set up on these but I haven’t serviced that many
How did you hold the pawls compressed against their springs while you re-assembled ii in the freewheel without disturbing the bearings?
No, just turned the hub and they found their way in. I that doesn't work you can push the hub in gently and poke the pawls in with a small screwdriver.
@@UnhingedHarry Thank you!
@@UnhingedHarry Have you notice any issues of the pawls sticking in lower temps by using grease as some have claimed?
@@deltafour1212 no mate. It doesn't really get cold here like some parts of the world. And if it gets below 10C, I stay home :)
@@UnhingedHarry You know, you are right. I never thought about that. Only worry about sticking if you're that person who rides in cold temperatures (Which I do not. Like you, I stay home when it's too cold to ride) You just made my life easier and saved me some money. Thank you! Like/Subscribe/Bell
Hello dear sir what's the name of the socket opener 😊😅
Hey mate, do you mean the freewheel spline tool? One like this on eBay:
www.ebay.com.au/itm/154758044535?itmmeta=01J0YXDZA4DG8SQ47SRN0GNBBY&hash=item24084c5b77:g:vOcAAOSwpsdhwF5K&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4OcJOFAgeRXC0LytOlZbqWFvvw%2FiwWZu5ISewdY%2FScPa0lQG1xTbeHRS1IMJLUuH6jP2F9yP4L%2FvcE1YfQDqd6TYxK8StvR4M9VqMlsOkcv48LfjDtUXV36%2BPivOEWaWsUU4HlqXmlW8lNEEfV6NSEdkiQtVBeW8pIkD2FXIxdSAdLxw7ZVl1FCk9IvZiM2K6dRjYDNhWMLN9e5cHOE%2BgG1idXxWzcgWzQPkdUiazCLjD1SUBn34muEGUmKPci%2BnZW1b%2FKEvdamue%2BLAGnNT7MDJCWjl5FQejO5fvuEy7Kf7%7Ctkp%3ABFBMlvW33Ydk
Right= left! Mirror video
Very informative video. However, unless I miss something in your video it was three spacers on the back and one spacer on the front. It appears you installed all four spacers on the back.
Thick thin washers how to fix it whether thicker washer first or the thinner washer first please help
Nowt wrong with using petrol mate. Nice little vid, cheers.
but where to dispose petrol?
this is the best video on the tube, but sir my geared cycle is not moving forward, just the pedals are moving but the bikes are not moving, what is the problem
problem with this video that its inverted. which means clockwise is the opposite
What size is the socket
@@UnhingedHarry the one you take the sprocket with I have old Schwinn bikes i want to service the rear wheels thanks
@@UnhingedHarry thanks I will go get one
Number of balls in the bearing of mine is 30 and 40 ( not 31 and 39 ). It seems one ball from the bottom was accidenly place to the top in the beginning.
Yes. I'm pretty sure mine had 39 and 30. But not absolutely. Shocking how easy it is to doubt yself,and then completely get confused. Even more confused when 1 or 2 of the new ones got mixed in with the old ones by my careless ness.
Like cheap cup and cone pedals, these freewheel units seem to be assembled rather carelessly and inconsistently.
@@KarlosEPM A ball or two short is going to make a negligible difference provided there's plenty of lubricant. What you DO NOT want is too many bearings. Even one too many will make any cup and cone device impossible to adjust properly.
How to remove that pesky 8 notch lockring that holds all the cogs onto the main body?
I think you need a spline tool and a spanner. Then something to stop the freewheel or cassette from turning, Usually a chain whip.
Actually I was talking about the lockring that holds cogs and spacers onto the ratcheting part so I can replace/clean certain cogs.@@UnhingedHarry
@@steelisreal4313 Oh I understand. I haven't done that. I thought they were riveted. I'll see if I can find a cluster and have a look.
Your video is recorded as a mirror image, right? Was that intentional?
@@UnhingedHarry LOL
I think Chris should sort it out. Maybe super impose a statement over thise critical parts of the video to explain that it couid ruin your day and possibly your cycle to do as depicted here.
white vinegar could be very corrosive awesome video though
Yes I found out that vinegar is OK for rust.. not so good for grease and grime.
Sir, can you explain a bit further why do we need to leave a small gap.
@@UnhingedHarry oh thank you so much, I was wondering why does my freewheel move so slow and realized about this explanation so now I understand and now my freewheel moves smooth
how many bearing back.. and front
@@UnhingedHarry ok thank you! 😊
This is what I was looking for. My freewheel stopped "ratcheting", it went quiet and the pedal jumps forward sometimes with a "crack"" when I push it hard, it's so annoying. I wonder what happened inside the freewheel? Did the pawls wear out? Or the parts around it, with the notches? I don't really want to replace it because then I have to change the chain...and then everything get messed up, the shifting won't work. (I did a freewheel replacement once, without a new chain, it became a mess, lol) So I would like to try to fix the hub instead...I don't know if it would solve the forward-jump problem though, the Shimano shift is working well though, it's something with the freewheel itself that may be the problem, despite keeping it well-oiled....grrr. It just jumps a few inches forward when pedaling, then it works again so it's even hard to see why it does it. No matter what, the freewheel definitely needs a cleaning anyway. Thanks for the video!
@@UnhingedHarry
Thanks mate!
I live in a small swedish apartment with no access to tools and stuff, that's why I'm worried, though I could fiddle around with it...but now I forced to buy tons of tools for this problem and I don't have a spare bike. But yes, it seem that first I have to do that, to soak it somehow (no place for this procedure in my 19 m2, lol)...but I'll try to clean it. I always used this bike carefully and well-oiled and it still got this darn problem, it's really annoying. Thanks again for the advice, I'll definitely make a try.
@@UnhingedHarry
Thanks mate! I was on the same thoughts, in the bike storage area I gave it tons of spraying, laying down the bike, still no ratcheting sound, it was always very quiet, what I remember. Actually this is the best bike I've ever had, it's a steel frame citybike, 7 years old, never had any problems with it...but now I can't avoid a slightly complicated freewheel service, despite always keeping it well-oiled. I like to do some small works when needed, I just wish I had a spare bike during this project, lol. Thanks for your advice!
THE LOCK RING ON MY 6 SPEED SUNTOUR IS REVERSE THREAD - opposite to yours
I've torn apart about 15 freewheels in the past 6 months and here is what I found....9 times out of 10 there is 31 bearings (1/8 inch) on the top and 39 (1/8 inch) bearings on the bottom. It seems as though your video is reversed....the lock nut on top turns clockwise to loosen....Last but not least take it apart over a plastic piece that will catch the bearings if they decide to 'pop' loose.....
the latest ring is not removeable then what you do is just magic
You know u can take apart gear per gear right? U just didnt unscrew it
miror video, how is open, left, right. So, you are write 1,2,3 are wrong side
This did not help me.
I just would like to thank u for taking the time from your schedule to share information.
You really shouldn't use petrol. You should use STALE petrol. Gas is expensive where I'm from and has a shelf life about the same as milk. With so many machines I seem to find myself with gallons of the stuff unfit for internal combustion.
@@UnhingedHarry I was exaggerating a bit but I do use stale gas for cleaning run of the mill dirty petro goo. For really stubborn stuff I like lacquer thinner but careful with plastic and rubber and it's expensive also. For burnt on varnish we have a product in the US called "LA's Totally Awesome". I thought the name a bit hyperbolic until I tried it. It in fact is totally awesome for cleaning two stroke model engines without darkening the aluminum castings like caustic oven cleaners.
Interesting. Your lockring is a right hand thread. RJ Guys lock ring (th-cam.com/video/T_vRbBRPr3c/w-d-xo.html) has a left hand thread. Hmmm.
Most of the video is reversed image. Check the green Castro grease container at 12:29 :reversed. The freewheel ring nut is normally left hand thread, 3:00: reversed. Adjustable wrench 12IN 2:18 :reversed. 1:20 looks ok. Wedding ring? Right hand?
right, left - mirror video
Use vinegar
@@UnhingedHarry yes your right I was thinking rust When I commented but you’re talking about Greece anyway good job have a great day
wd-40
Translation of the Arabic language
What is the size of the balls