The most INSANE foundation // Shop Build 2
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Part 2 of the dream shop build is all about the foundation...and it's crazy. After a TON of excavation our concrete contractors began to install the most overkill foundation they had ever seen (no joke). It's a long story but I tried fighting the designer months ago because I had a suspicion it was a bit much. Oh well! We're here now and the shop build is fully underway.
Tag along as we move mountains of dirt and put in mountains of concrete! This shop isn't going anywhere...
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Architect: footings for retaining walls can be huge because they are functionally cantilevered from the ground. The footing sticking way outside the wall needs to have enough soil on it to keep the wall from tipping over, and you need a lot of steel reinforcing between the two to functionally tie them together so they function as a single element. Normal foundation walls don't need this (even in a basement where they are holding back lots of dirt) because the floor system is tied to the top and acts to reinforce the wall laterally. So in that case your footing only needs to resist gravity loads.
You can solve this by just making the wall full height (so if your shop had a 9' ceiling, make the concrete 9' high and attach it to your roof framing/2nd floor framing). The drawback is you get to look at concrete on the outside, but you get a much smaller footing.
Also an architect. This. 100%.
Structural engineer: Overbuilt.
Not a structural engineer, but the footings seem CYA by the architect which is fine for him, but very costly for this guy. The Perkins Brothers are currently building a giant house on the side of a mountain using the concrete forms with part of the back of the house holding back much more than this and the footers were half this size. If you dont know what Im talking about, go check out their channel and compare. Also, I would have found somewhere to store some of that top soil rather than just giving it away. Those guys probably sold it to someone for thousands of dollars. Anyway, I would have gotten a second opinion on those architectural plans before I committed to spending that much on concrete and labor. If the concrete guys are laughing at the build, maybe there is something to that.
I agree the non-retaining-wall footings seem pretty big, but its really hard to say if they are oversized without knowing what the soil underneath them is like. Soil bearing capacity varies a lot (even within the same lot sometimes). If you have good soil (2500psf or up) footings can be shockingly small, even on large houses. If you have crap soil they can get quite large even when modestly loaded.
At the end of the day, most engineers/architects are going to give a bit of cushion on footing size. The absolute last thing you want is the structure to settle after its been constructed and occupied. The cost difference between a 24" and 30" footing isn't that much.
Yes. Architect here. I've been hearing the "over-designed" complaint from Building Contractors and Owners for 45 years. Did the Owner review the drawings with the Architect / Engineer before permit submission? Now complaining about it? Most states base their building code on the IRC (International Residential Code) written by the ICC (International Code Council), then modify / adopt it by state or local jurisdiction. The IRC changes every three years and base the changes on recent empirical data ....storms, tornadoes, hurricanes, wind, seismic, etc. As such, structural requirements are constantly increasing. Architects / Engineers are required by law to comply with building code and local plans examiners will look for this compliance. There is also the liability issue for Architects / Engineers / Building Contractors. One lawsuit can wipe you out. I've refused projects when the Owner's "cowboy" approach would place everyone involved in jeopardy. Just defending yourself in a lawsuit can cost more than your fee. Owners are often aghast at the cost of building and I have to explain that building code requirements are a part of the cost equation. Everything runs downhill and the Owner has to pay for it.
Cement is one component in concrete ....many use these terms interchangeably ....not correct. Engineering has been broken down into several specialties ......structural, soils, civil, mechanical, etc. Some engineers are licensed to do many of these but they are not necessarily interchangeable.
What I like about you, is that it is not nessecarily overbuilt, but built to last a lifetime and when and if you ever sell, this video documentation of the build will prove just that. Going to love this build. My wife and I are so proud of you guys
Love the channel and this series! FYI: since your pulling new service to the garage, DO NOT run copper (cat6) between your house and garage. The ground differentials will wreak HAVOC on your networking equipment and any devices attached. Run Fiber between the house and garage. distance and speed in this case doesn't matter, but the fiber will alleviate any ground differentials! Source: Im a professional AV contractor that works in large homes and estates, with multiple outbuildings being connected with years of experience :)
Or... he could run POE (Power over Ethernet) on the Cat 6 and not use any power from the shop and Run a WiFi Access Point. Would I put in Fiber, yeah but average homeowner doesn't know how to puck and polish...but may get lucky and use crimp on connectors rolling the dice without owning a power meter.
@@davidconley4at that length, pre-terminated. Would've done 1" PVC with no tight-radius bends, but I just like making it easy on myself. This guy is way beyond the average homeowner anyways, he'd be one to understand
@@davidconley4 he would just need todo preterminated fiber. If I had to guess it’s less then 125ft wireft length from shop to house.
If he really wanted todo custom, for homeowners clearline fiber is more than adequate. I’m Corning fiber certified, but haven’t done traditional fiber in years since clearline came out.
Don’t the grounds get tied together when he runs the power to the garage off his main feed?
Edit: I am an idiot he is pulling a new service which was even in your comment, ignore me.
@brendonziegenbein5226 I've run ethernet in applications like this between commercial buildings with separate services (each with their own transformers) and never had issues with ground differentials. Ground differentials used to matter in data centers when serial was a major communication medium (they use 5V signalling) but ethernet is designed to handle far more ground differential then two services running from the same transformer will ever have. The grounds & neutrals for each service are bonded at the panel, and then the neutrals for each service are bonded at the pole so the ground differential will be miniscule.
I hope you put in a French drain on the outside walls by the hill near the footers and don't forget the downspout pipes right below the ground! double wall with smooth inner wall or triple wall!
I had NO IDEA you were only 2.5 hours from me! I get my wood for my WW business in Ohio Amish country at Keim Lumber in Charm, OH. I'm loving this shop build and how much you're prospering right now servicing the WW community with your innovations. Godspeed sir.
Glad to see you getting some traction on the shop. I wish you luck in getting it built with no major issues.
Is it too late to add framing for a 2nd garage door now? Maybe you never put it in, but from a resale perspective, it's nice to be able to say that the header is already installed for a 2nd garage door.
Consider running fiber instead of copper for the network. Copper can pick up interference and transient voltage running long distances underground. You can use media converters at each end.
Listen to this guy. Maximum copper runs from powered device to powered device is 320ft in perfect conditions. Another facet is many devices have 'Green' or 'EEE' modes which operate at lower power levels resulting in transmission issues at shorter distances.
cat6 also has limitations on the run length.
And you are future proofing the connection for higher speeds. Fibre all the way!
@@thweap Maximum ethernet segment length is 100m. Once you factor in patch cords at each end, terminations, the practical maximum length is around 270ft from my experience (doing this for well over a decade). And ethernet is designed to handle interference along it's length, why they use the signaling methods they do. And if you are really worried about interference, use shielded CAT6 with the proper terminations for the shield and you should be fine.
@@ronlandry7672 Just run conduit the entire length then you can pull whatever you want in future.
Quite the foundation indeed! I like the preparation for internet, but you probably want to run fiber instead of cat6 (or at least run cat6a for 10gig support). If you are going between buildings with separate electrical systems then fiber will give you electrical isolation. Also nice since it's going through the ground that because it's non-conductive if you have lightning that strikes nearby it won't act as a conduit to electrocute all the equipment connected to the network.
Being in structural engineering for 35 years, that foundation is designed how it should be. Residential construction is a joke.
The rebar is in the wrong place. It needs to be lower.
So well said. Residential construction is minimal to cut cost corners. No that footing is not overbuilt considering soil, weather, depth of backfill, and bearing load. Road construction for 30+ years and if you don't have a good foundation (especially with concrete) you have failures before you know it and those cost more than the initial build.
@@reekreeks the pressure being put on that wall by the soil behind it is actually trying to lift the footer. So the rebar would be in the top third, not the bottom third like a regular footing with weight pushing down on it.
@@rossmillard9804 no. thats why you add an additional higher mat of steel. you never shift the mat that is suppose to be near the bottom higher. it is required. They are cutting corners by not having the proper 2 mat layers of steel.
@@reekreeks never met an engineer interested in cutting corners. Never met a construction crew skimping on rebar they are not paying for and charge by the foot. You can see where the rebar is turned down and doubled on the front side of the footing. (9:18) Same detail I've see 100 times over the past 30 years.
There are several factors that go into calculating the slab. Soil conditions are normally a big factor in determining the grade beam and footings along with the building itself, uplift, wind conditions and live load on the slab itself. There is a lot that goes into designing on. I'm not a civil engineer, but I work for civil engineers that design foundations all the time.
Don't use CAT6 to go between buildings. Use that conduit to pull a pre-terminated fiber cable. Use media converters or a switch with SFP port. That way you want have any issues with ground loops between buildings.
Fiber is definitely the way to go. It is very cheap these days, and as before stated, will keep stray power from doing bad things.
and as with everything: pull more than one, the cost and effort of redoing it later is a lot more than adding a redundant wire now.
Also prevents surges in the garage from taking out the networking equipment in the main house.
100% this. Pull 3 pair of pre-terminated!! You'll never need the bandwidth and it won't be subject to any of the problems that can occur with copper. Another good thing is if you decide to install any sort of backup for your data, put it in the garage. God forbid...but housefires happen.
Thank you, I was going to say the same thing. the Cat6 is only good for 300 feet and something like 10GB/s. Pulling fiber reduces a lot of issues like noise on the line, ground loop problems, speed issues, etc. Put 2 fiber converters (1 in the house and one in the shop) that go from copper to fiber and back, with a switch in the shop and he'll be good-to-go.
IT guy here. Don’t pull Ethernet use fiber instead. You aren’t going a huge distance so multimode fiber is fine. Media converters will work, but get switches with SFP jacks instead.
You are living my dream, sir. No doubt about it, you deserve it and have worked hard to get where you are. But, I'm glad that we get to watch along. So far, the shop is looking amazing and I love the design. You make a lot of great points when discussing your idea to have a larger, single car garage door. Can't wait to see the rest.
I like how your plans integrated the shop into the landscape and fit it to match the house in design.
There are too many pole barns, behind otherwise nice homes, that look out of place.
Do it once, do it right.
Yep. Me too. Prep to the max, get a ton of stuff in case anything goes wrong long before I even think of actually doing/making something. Mind you, down here in New Zealand "stuff" isn't as easily accessible as it is out your way.
Cool, cool, cool ! Really looking forward to watching along!
That's not just a footer the typical structure like a house, to distribute vertical loads. It is doubling for a retaining wall. Now you have lateral forces from the soil acting in multiple directions. The footer needs to be robust. Better to be over designed and over built than to have to deal with cracked and possibly a wall failure later. Now that would expensive. Added note...I believe keyways should be required in all foundations. They will prevent movement due to cold joints.
Prob too late, but I think an RV garage door would be a better choice. With that long private driveway a new owner would want to park an RV in that beautiful garage. Just a thought. Beautiful work so far btw.
I’ve been looking forward to this since you first announced it!
Thanks for bringing us along, looking forward to seeing this series...
I can't even be jealous of getting to do this amazing build because I've been watching Travis, for a while, and realize he is where he is, very deliberately, due to focus and drive.
Okay, I'm a good bit jealous of that focus and drive... and that's why I'm watching 😉
3:29 you should’ve said very mindful very demure 😂
The video quality here is out of this world. I hope people appreciate the time and effort that goes into putting something like this together. Can't wait to see the rest!
This is awesome! I'm so glad that your back to doing more videos!
Shop shades FTW
Looking great Travis! We’ll see you, in the next one.
Great video Travis. Glad to see you used the best concrete in the business, Ernst Concrete, but I'm a little bias. QC tech in the Columbus Division. Keep up the great work 👍
Think about radiant heat in the floor and running dust collection under the slab.👍🏝️🇨🇦
Sick dude, it’s starting to get real
Foundationally this is good.
How to know you're on the right path in life: "Most insane thing I've ever done on a residential job."
This is so fascinating! Thanks for sharing all of this. Those big machines are so cool.
For some reason your videos remind me of the king of random
Great series - loving it. From the UK.
Dang I saw a parked Escalade! Then you got this amazing shop being built. I'm happy you're seeing such success. Congrats Travis!
@7:04 DJI osmo - best action camera
If you think the foundations are over engineered get a calculator and pen and prove it with calculations. That garage is the size of an average house and the retaining wall / foundations looks to be about right for what it is retaining and a lot depends on the soil bearing capacity too. Im in engineering and have seen a lot of these. You will never regret overbuilt.
I trust the concrete crew that does this every day. Total overbuild
Love the networking conduit. Do yourself a favor and run OM-3 fiber as well.
That motorcycle segment was INTENSE!!!! 🔥🔥🔥🔥
Americans use a little bit of concrete in their project and they immediately think they’re building a bunker 😂
As an IT infrastructure guy, I hope you ran multiple runs of Cat6 and left a pull string in there as well. I'm with you though on preferring overbuilt vs. underbuilt. Cool series, will keep a lookout for more videos on this.
Whats Cat6? I'm thinking of building something similar to this video.
@@XannDaMann Cat6 is Ethernet Cable (hard wired Internet)
@@robertrodriguez3202 ah okay! thank you!
Disagree. He should be running fiber. Then he's got complete and total electrical isolation between the house and the shop. Fiber is inexpensive, easy to pull, and easy to terminate.
@@XannDaMann What @robertrodriguez3202 said. IF you need internet / network connectivity in your new space (e.g. cameras, TVs, Wi-Fi etc.), I encourage running Cat6E (Category 6E) (Cat7 is available but overkill for home applications) It is low voltage wiring with 4 pairs of wires in a common sheath. The pairs are twisted to reduce interference.
You do wireless if what you're building is close enough to existing Wi-Fi coverage. Today's Wi-Fi extenders are pretty decent. But wired is superior. It's not expensive. The conduit and labor (if hired out) would probably cost more than the Cat6E. 1000ft. of it is less than $150 on amazon.
Caveat: If the new space is further than about 300 ft / 100 meters from home router you'd have to consider fiber-optic which is more involved.
I’m going with a head case. Lol. Great vlog!
I can not imagine how much this coast.
Alternate title: Local man builds tallest mountain in all of Ohio
You should run that cat 5 cable now, not just the PVC.
Wait your in Dayton? That’s cool. Me too
That is going to be an awesome shop.
All I am doing is pulling a new separate service to my shop and I am already annoyed by the process and timeline. I cannot imagine how much effort and headache this project is. But man oh man does it seem like it’s going to be totally worth it!
i remember when i operated an excavator for our patio, 5 years ago. it was intimidating at first but then became fun (not necessarily efficient) after an hour.
Team with a lot of experience???.!!!
But the spay the formwork with oil and the rebar installed inside of the formwork! I am pretty sure that the spray the formwork so concrete doesn't stick to the formwork, but what about the oil on the rebar??😂😂😂😂
those footer are INSANE. The cost of that concrete alone is worth more than my entire shop
I would’ve run some troughs in the foundation for dust collection and electrical.
Finally doing the foundation properly. Your comment about being overbuilt is so wrong. It meets requirements but is not overbuilt by a long shot, as a structural engineer I know. Glad to see they are doing things right and is so typical, nothing goes as planned and proper planning means you should expect delays. I would suggest that you make the header for the door so it could be changed at a later date for a two car garage door or a space for a second garage door (simple to do and won't cost you much now but could save you (or the next owner) a small fortune if you desire it. Good luck on this venture.
Looking good.
I lived around Dayton. I remember that was the first place I encountered Radon mitigation. Do they require that for a shop, is it strictly classified as a garage?
I hope your contractor is giving you a good deal on all the work he is doing for all that good dirt he just hauled out of there to resale to someone else. I do know that not everybody has a place to put it or use it somewhere else on their property and have to have it remove, but aways ask how they are charging you. Clean fill dirt is not cheap and if you are paying to have it hauled off, they are going to turn around and resale it and get paid double and most off the time they already have a buyer for it.
you live in a beautiful part of the country!
Great job!
I’m just wondering about that form oil spray, does that affect the bond from the footer to the wall? Because it seem like it got on the footer.
Plus the pink ridgid foam, Is it me or could’ve done a better job of installing it? It just seemed like a halfhearted job, for something that is so simple and does it take much skill to do. But yeah no tape on the seams, there’s gaps (especially at the corners) for such an unskilled job, It should’ve been talking seriously.
And yes “I know we live in America” but can we have just a little pride in our work, like the Japanese, or the Swedish or Germans?
Suggest running fiber between the house and shop so that the 2 ends are electrically isolated. You know, lightning strikes and stuff.
My 820 sq ft shop doesn't have anything like that for a foundation. I think my footers were a foot wide by 10 inches deep or possibly the other way around.
Honestly, not sure my shop build 2 years ago was much less stout. West Coast earthquake requirements...
I know exactly how you feel about the over engineered wall's as when I was building my shop I have a section of the slab that's 4 foot thick 🤯🤔, this was due to the fact that whilst digging out for the foundations I actually had water flowing into the area of the top right corner of the foundations and it was because I hit a Natural Spring 🫣😳. Water just kept on coming and coming out of the ground and flooding out my slab area. The only way to stop it was to put a marine type pour of concrete that was basically "Waterproof " not only Waterproof concrete but I also have an aray of "French drains" crisscrossing the entire slab area. I could have cried as it was a nightmare to deal with, not to mention the extra delays in all area's and the cost basically tripled in price for the concrete pour. That said I have not seen a single bubbling of water coming from my ground or had any moisture issues in my workshop whatsoever in the past 3 yrs of the shop being built🧐.
As alway's buddy 💯% 👍 🇬🇧.
Nice rogue shirt, didn’t expect to see that here. Two of my interests overlapping
May I ask you to talk about how you chose your contractor, please?
Don't run CAT6, run fiber. More future proof and also non conductive to help prevent issues with lightning or ground loops. It's scary sounding to use fiber, but not difficult.
If it makes you feel any better: Dutch houses are poured even thicker sometimes and can last 100+ years :) it's quite common to have a full house out of concrete even.
I guess it's about "standards" or what you're used to 😅
Your supposed to spray the forms before putting them up so you don't get oil on your foundation. Could cause a weak joint having oil in the key.
Is it a bunker or a workshop ? Wahouuu !
you should have ran 1" or 1 1/4 for the data. i highly recommend changing it out
Jealous! Coming along great
15:38 you could have had my wife do this line for you. She says that to me all the time 😢
Imagine that an engineer over engineering for 2 engineers. At least you don't have to go behind them and fix it later.
8:00 "fooled me twice i can't get fooled again" who said that?
Well, if you need a load of fill dirt at least you'll realize how much cash you gave away by them hauling your's away 😂😂
After I ear Taco bell. @11:43
Spray concrete forms with diesel or kerosene. Locally that is what is used. I’m surprised you didn’t use ifc for the retaining wall.
Dont let this shop build interrupt football watchin time in the smaller mancave shop ✊
Looking good!
In any job, for max efficiency : preparation is key 😉
Persue shop greatness!
Looks like Mike Patey designed your build lol
besides all those wooden houses you guys have in the US .. are basements not a common thing there? sincere question
2:12 Travis over engineering will likely save you at some point
Yeah, it's overbuilt, but hey, why not. I owned and ran a custom footing company for several years as well as being a building designer for over 3 decades, and I've only seen one footing that came close to that and it was a highly cantilevered one for a large 2-storey commercial building. You can sleep well at night knowing that the shop has greatness from the bottom up. lol
I didn't build my garage. It's also only wide enough for one car in a two car space. Not a deal breaker, but I wish the door was taller. Would be nice for lifted trucks and/or an RV.
Since it is a separate building I would run fiber optic and not ethernet. Potential grounding issues with the copper ethernet wires.
Did I miss the rebar going into the walls from the footers? It’s all free floating and no mechanical connection besides the keyway? 😮
Yes, didn't show that part, definitely have rebar tiing into the footers
Based on the local building code, your foundation looks to be about the size of the foundation I have to build for a short set of stairs i have to build up to my back deck - 14" square footers, 16" deep, for a maybe 5' x 9' slab.
Because in USA you build home with wood maybe is the reason you think is overkill, but in Europe is normal because home made with concrete or block .
Wow…those are wide footers at the back corner!!!
pull fiber not cat 6. single mode should be plenty. eventually cat6 won't be fast enough anymore. it's really not that far off.
I'm not paying but over engineering the foundation is probably the right way to go. You never want to try and min max this and miss the mark by the tiniest amount and it catastrophically cause damage amounting to wayyy more $ than that extra engineering had you pay.
That's not mine. It's my wife's 😂😂
As a construction inspector with 25 years experience I can tell you that your rebar is not in the correct location for this. That "grid" needs to be closer to the bottom, the way that the load / tension works on concrete structural slabs.
Over-engineering: Better to have it and not need it, than stand on a pile of rubble and think, "I should have gone for more."
This is looking nice, and I can't wait to see what comes next... after you take some family getaway time. (Enjoy yourself)
Anything engineered is always going to be “over engineered” you want a safety factor over 1 lol. Don’t want you standing on the soil behind the shop to be the little bit that caves your wall in
Whoa, hard cut to Tom Hardy in Bikeriders………
Almost Solid Like normal house in Poland :)
use fiber not ethernet between the buildings
I thinks it's mandated that every cement crew has at least one guy with dreads. Every crew I've worked with had one.