Kody, how are installing top row horizontal rebar and stirrups for lintels when the top row of block is cut and the rebar cradles are cut away to achieve the correct building height?
I usually pre-plan my elevations to avoid this. But in this scenario just get creative. Maybe you drop some vertical bar so you can tie the top horizontal to it? Seems legit to me.
Thanks for replying Kody! That is a good idea. I thought about doing as it is probably the best method I can think of. I decided to increase the ceiling height a little bit and use 54” drywall which I think will solve the issue. I’ll cut a couple of inches off the top block and still have 2 1/2” of concrete coverage over the rebar. I was planning to use 6” baseboards so in this case with 54” drywall and the 5/8” I’ll gain with the ceiling drywall I’ll end up with about 4 1/2” at the bottom of the wall where a strip of drywall will be required. But, since it’s below the line of the baseboard I don’t think I’ll even tape and mud that joint. Great videos by the way. Been watching them for years.
When using thermal camera…sometimes you see gaps between blocks that shine up blue (cold)..how do you fill these gaps in? Also, electrical back boxes…we have used PU adhesive and screwed them back into the concrete core…do you add any fire proofing when doing 1st fix for the back boxes..we have run all cables in conduit to be safe.
If there are gaps you can fill those with spray foam, then cut off the excess. For electrical boxes. We have never used adhesive unless you want to spray foam them in place. I like the concrete screw through the back . Fireproofing is your call… I personally don’t think it’s necessary. And conduits we only do in commercial.
awesome video Kody
Thank you !
Great start to the series!
I appreciate that!
Kody, how are installing top row horizontal rebar and stirrups for lintels when the top row of block is cut and the rebar cradles are cut away to achieve the correct building height?
I usually pre-plan my elevations to avoid this. But in this scenario just get creative. Maybe you drop some vertical bar so you can tie the top horizontal to it? Seems legit to me.
Great question by the way
Thanks for replying Kody! That is a good idea. I thought about doing as it is probably the best method I can think of. I decided to increase the ceiling height a little bit and use 54” drywall which I think will solve the issue. I’ll cut a couple of inches off the top block and still have 2 1/2” of concrete coverage over the rebar. I was planning to use 6” baseboards so in this case with 54” drywall and the 5/8” I’ll gain with the ceiling drywall I’ll end up with about 4 1/2” at the bottom of the wall where a strip of drywall will be required. But, since it’s below the line of the baseboard I don’t think I’ll even tape and mud that joint. Great videos by the way. Been watching them for years.
Kody, On the two story house what size icf blocks did you use? Are they generally the same size ICF blocks from the basement to the roof?
how far south do you go. my plans are almost complete and hoping to break ground late summer in Southern Maine.
I'm sold on Nudura
It’s definitely a great system and they have a good support team
When using thermal camera…sometimes you see gaps between blocks that shine up blue (cold)..how do you fill these gaps in?
Also, electrical back boxes…we have used PU adhesive and screwed them back into the concrete core…do you add any fire proofing when doing 1st fix for the back boxes..we have run all cables in conduit to be safe.
If there are gaps you can fill those with spray foam, then cut off the excess.
For electrical boxes. We have never used adhesive unless you want to spray foam them in place. I like the concrete screw through the back . Fireproofing is your call… I personally don’t think it’s necessary. And conduits we only do in commercial.
Great questions though!
What's the fire rating?
I want one of those houses 😂
Me too ! 😂