I took it into Pertex Hydraulics with the hoses, they have three people there that are better at it than I am, though I wouldn't say that about any other company in Greensboro. I drive it along the side of a mountain, and it is very important that my steering doesn't go out on me. I have bought rebuild kits through Amazon and private companies that I found through Google search.
@@alessandrocomisso700 Different oil different pumps. 1) power steering oil = only for power steering. 2) hydraulic oil = only for hydraulic and low density transmissions 3) break oil = only dot 3 break fluid 4)Gear Oil = 90 weight or above Power steering oil goes in power steering pump almost always.
I have a MF 165 with the same steering system. On the steering cylinder, the pin that holds the hydraulic cylinder shaft in place has me puzzled. It has no retaining clip above it as your tractor does, it's just there and I cannot figure how to remove it to get the hydraulic cylinder out. I see no set screw, C clip, etc. The pin sits about a 1/2 inch down into the hole with no way to extract it. I wonder if it's sheared off the top or something, but it looks nice, cleanly machined, not sheared. Any ideas?
As a machinist of 30 years, I can tell you there are a lot of hack jobs done to tractors, having done many myself. If we are talking about the small shaft of the hydraulic cylinder, then it is just as likely that someone dropped a pin in just to hold it and found out that they couldn't get it out again and sold the problem to someone else. First, look for the other possible problem, an engineer decided to do something fancy like a cross pin or a set screw to hold it in, meaning that there will be a way to push the pin out from the bottom. If not, then it is the hand drill that can be used. Use a punch with a single point on the front to indent a starting point for the drill. You can wrap paper around the front to better center the punch in the hole. Use a small split point drill first. I am assuming that if it was just a pin laying around the shop that it wasn't hardened to the point that a drill won't go through. If it rounds off the front of your punch, then you may have to drill from the bottom with a 1/4-inch drill or slightly larger and use a small rod to push out the pin. Else, finish up with a larger drill on top and use a round spiral EZ-out (for getting out broken bolts) by hammering it in and twisting as you hopefully pull it out. You want pressure on the cylinder when drilling and no pressure on the cylinder when pulling it out.
I was able to remove it after multiple applications of WD40, rocking it around and blowing out the debris with an air nozzle. I placed a really strong magnet above it and was able to wiggle and wobble it until there was very slight play. The magnet sucked it out. Lucky.@@martinsoos
@@ricktrojacek9890 Gratts, I have never been able to get that trick to work. Make sure you get a long enough rod to stick down in there or weld a smaller rod or bolt to it for the next time. Or sell it to someone you don't like. Gratts twice on that one. 🙂
I hope you can help me. I have an old 50 massey front load tractor. I recently took the hydraulic pump off and cleaned it as you did. After putting it back and driving the tractor I realized that the pump and the cylinder became extremely hot 🔥. I have no idea why. Please if you can assist it would be much appreciated
Clogs usually happen at oil filters and good systems have two filters, a screen and a paper filter. some are on the return line from the actuator to the tank and some from the tank to the pump. Heating is caused from the pump over working, usually from filters, but clogs at the intakes or inside of the pump, at the intakes or inside the actuator, or even from steel pipes that have been pinched from hitting something, are the main causes of heating. You shood note that hydraulics for the front loader and the steering are two different systems. For steering, you are looking for the pump, it usually has a plug on top to add steering oil. The filters are inside the pump and the pump must be taken apart while still on the tractor to change the filters. heating from steering usually comes from low oil level or clogged filters.
@@martinsoos much appreciated. I will change the filter then. I tried to clean it with diesel but I guess that didn't work. I will take a look at the pipes as well and see if their are any damage. If I don't come right I will give you a shout out again. Thanks again.
On the ram side, I forced(bent) the metal tab that was over the pin up and pulled the pin out with pliers (you may need to turn the tractor on to release any pressure on the steering wheel). After I pulled the pin, I turned the tractor on and ran the ram all the way to the back of the cylinder. That cleared it from the hole. On the swivel arm side, I used the special pliers with stubby wire tips to pull the lock ring off, though most people just use a couple of small screwdrivers and a had full of cuss words. Now for the bad news, with all engineering there are multiple was of doing the same thing. On both my Fords, they are held in with nuts.
Hi I am working on a massey ferguson 50e tractor and it has hydraulic cylinders for the front steering and it has 2 cylinders one for each way i assume.My question is do you know how the lines would hook up.They got taken off and never marked and i have changed them in various ways and cannot get it to steer as of yet.Hoping maybe you could help.Thanks
Normally they reverse. So that one line hooks up to the steering controls and the other end hooks up to the front side of one cylinder and the back side of the other cylinder and fill in the blanks for the other line off the steering controls. My ford 555 backhoe hooks up that way and my ford 4000, you might find a vid or an old repair manual. If all else fails, take it to a hydraulic specialist (the people that make only hoses, not Carquest), they will make sure all your lines are hooked up properly. But first, with the lines loose but not off make sure when the engine is on and you turn the steering wheel that hydraulic oil leaks from both lines. When they sit you never know what other problems came about.
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Selamın aleyküm dostum hodrolik direksiyon pompasinin usteki borumu basinc olur alttakimi
Thank you for this video
Nice job sir
نطلب من المهندس ان يشرح لنا جرار 185
Where did you find the rebuild kit for that cylinder? Can you please share a link if you got it online? Thank you
I took it into Pertex Hydraulics with the hoses, they have three people there that are better at it than I am, though I wouldn't say that about any other company in Greensboro. I drive it along the side of a mountain, and it is very important that my steering doesn't go out on me. I have bought rebuild kits through Amazon and private companies that I found through Google search.
My mf 3303 steering is hard to rotate.. The probably problem is the steering pump or the steering piston? How to repaire?
They are usually only hard to turn if the power steering fluid is low. Small cap or hex screwhead on pump.
@@martinsoos must the same hydraulic oil of the whole system be added from there?
@@alessandrocomisso700 Different oil different pumps.
1) power steering oil = only for power steering.
2) hydraulic oil = only for hydraulic and low density transmissions
3) break oil = only dot 3 break fluid
4)Gear Oil = 90 weight or above
Power steering oil goes in power steering pump almost always.
I have a MF 165 with the same steering system. On the steering cylinder, the pin that holds the hydraulic cylinder shaft in place has me puzzled. It has no retaining clip above it as your tractor does, it's just there and I cannot figure how to remove it to get the hydraulic cylinder out. I see no set screw, C clip, etc. The pin sits about a 1/2 inch down into the hole with no way to extract it. I wonder if it's sheared off the top or something, but it looks nice, cleanly machined, not sheared. Any ideas?
As a machinist of 30 years, I can tell you there are a lot of hack jobs done to tractors, having done many myself. If we are talking about the small shaft of the hydraulic cylinder, then it is just as likely that someone dropped a pin in just to hold it and found out that they couldn't get it out again and sold the problem to someone else. First, look for the other possible problem, an engineer decided to do something fancy like a cross pin or a set screw to hold it in, meaning that there will be a way to push the pin out from the bottom. If not, then it is the hand drill that can be used. Use a punch with a single point on the front to indent a starting point for the drill. You can wrap paper around the front to better center the punch in the hole. Use a small split point drill first. I am assuming that if it was just a pin laying around the shop that it wasn't hardened to the point that a drill won't go through. If it rounds off the front of your punch, then you may have to drill from the bottom with a 1/4-inch drill or slightly larger and use a small rod to push out the pin. Else, finish up with a larger drill on top and use a round spiral EZ-out (for getting out broken bolts) by hammering it in and twisting as you hopefully pull it out. You want pressure on the cylinder when drilling and no pressure on the cylinder when pulling it out.
I was able to remove it after multiple applications of WD40, rocking it around and blowing out the debris with an air nozzle. I placed a really strong magnet above it and was able to wiggle and wobble it until there was very slight play. The magnet sucked it out. Lucky.@@martinsoos
@@ricktrojacek9890 Gratts, I have never been able to get that trick to work. Make sure you get a long enough rod to stick down in there or weld a smaller rod or bolt to it for the next time. Or sell it to someone you don't like. Gratts twice on that one. 🙂
I hope you can help me. I have an old 50 massey front load tractor. I recently took the hydraulic pump off and cleaned it as you did. After putting it back and driving the tractor I realized that the pump and the cylinder became extremely hot 🔥.
I have no idea why. Please if you can assist it would be much appreciated
Clogs usually happen at oil filters and good systems have two filters, a screen and a paper filter. some are on the return line from the actuator to the tank and some from the tank to the pump. Heating is caused from the pump over working, usually from filters, but clogs at the intakes or inside of the pump, at the intakes or inside the actuator, or even from steel pipes that have been pinched from hitting something, are the main causes of heating. You shood note that hydraulics for the front loader and the steering are two different systems. For steering, you are looking for the pump, it usually has a plug on top to add steering oil. The filters are inside the pump and the pump must be taken apart while still on the tractor to change the filters. heating from steering usually comes from low oil level or clogged filters.
@@martinsoos much appreciated. I will change the filter then. I tried to clean it with diesel but I guess that didn't work. I will take a look at the pipes as well and see if their are any damage. If I don't come right I will give you a shout out again. Thanks again.
@@paulvorster1553 If it is the front loader you are having trouble with, th-cam.com/video/jN6AMdyJ19s/w-d-xo.html
How did you get it apart to this stage have a Ram with a crack or very bad leak but can't seem to actually remove the ram itself
On the ram side, I forced(bent) the metal tab that was over the pin up and pulled the pin out with pliers (you may need to turn the tractor on to release any pressure on the steering wheel). After I pulled the pin, I turned the tractor on and ran the ram all the way to the back of the cylinder. That cleared it from the hole. On the swivel arm side, I used the special pliers with stubby wire tips to pull the lock ring off, though most people just use a couple of small screwdrivers and a had full of cuss words. Now for the bad news, with all engineering there are multiple was of doing the same thing. On both my Fords, they are held in with nuts.
Hi I am working on a massey ferguson 50e tractor and it has hydraulic cylinders for the front steering and it has 2 cylinders one for each way i assume.My question is do you know how the lines would hook up.They got taken off and never marked and i have changed them in various ways and cannot get it to steer as of yet.Hoping maybe you could help.Thanks
Normally they reverse. So that one line hooks up to the steering controls and the other end hooks up to the front side of one cylinder and the back side of the other cylinder and fill in the blanks for the other line off the steering controls. My ford 555 backhoe hooks up that way and my ford 4000, you might find a vid or an old repair manual. If all else fails, take it to a hydraulic specialist (the people that make only hoses, not Carquest), they will make sure all your lines are hooked up properly. But first, with the lines loose but not off make sure when the engine is on and you turn the steering wheel that hydraulic oil leaks from both lines. When they sit you never know what other problems came about.
@@martinsoos Thank you so much,i will try your routes,Take care
My steering turning sometimes
Hydraulic oil not getting to pump. Check filter in pump. It looks like it's in the pump where you add the steering fluid. I should do a video on it.