You make the best step by step Hvac videos I have ever seen really enjoyed the cooling towers lesson and here from South Africa I say thank you and please continue I am a Mechanical engineer student and you give me insight on something I can go into business
I just had a flashback of replacing 35 ton Carlyle compressors in old Carrier 30 GT units in the early 1980s . We called that board technique a " Fred Flinstone sliding board ".
I usually put the pulley on about half way and move the motor around till I have the straight edge sitting on both pulleys just right. Belt tension is adjusted after everything is torqued down.
Clean the end of the shaft while the hub is pushed toward ths end bell of the motor. Rust was holding the hub. Now spray the shaft with penetrant. Should come right off after you wedge the hub open.
Hi Ken, I really appreciate your video. In regard to putting anti-seize on the motor shaft and screws holding the bushing to the pulley: a Gates brochure states, "Note: Do not lubricate the bushing taper, hub taper, bushing bore, or the shaft. Doing so may result in sprocket/sheave hub fracture. DO NOT USE LUBRICANTS." I would appreciate your comments about this statement. Thanks, Mike
+Mike MACLENNAN I would follow the Gases brochure. I was interested in the downstream maintenance and the sheave being able to come off the shaft. I have never had a problem with lube on shaft.
My friend, I give you some advise. To remove a pulley what you do is douse it first with wd40....or better yet silicone....SIT the motor on its end and with 2 big Sdrivers pry the hell of it out. Never fails. It will not damage it or brake it. The way you do it is the hard way. Let the weight of the motor work for you.
+Kathy Quinlan You are right Kathy, I missed that and I like how you look at the whole picture with great detail. The next time I go to that unit I will kill power to disconnect switch and put some electrical tape on it. The unit has been running good now for 9 months with no complaints.
Great video. I liked the tip of measuring from the foot mounting hole to the face of the motor sheave. That does assume that the sheaves we're aligned correctly to begin with. Also, when you were removing the old sheave you probably should have checked for a set screw in the taperlock bushing. The hole on the perimeter of the bushing over the keyway. If you were going to replaced the bushing and sheave, why remove them from the old motor?
Hi Ken, I note that the old motor RPM 1745 and the new one RPM 1440 that's way the new one withdraw less AMPS, moreover the fan RPM shall checked after install the new motor and shall be as per fan name plate to keep the same air flow rate and static pressure.
You didn't mention comparing the service factor of the old and new motors, although you said the new motor may be more efficient. I don't see what was wrong with the old sheave beside that you beat on it while removing it. Where the grooves worn? Do you keep the old motors to see if they are repairable? Where was the starter/overload located? I'm not familiar with HVAC, do they have the controls inside the building?
+Nicholas Smerk 1. When you line up your sheave in the unit and you are working with an old sheave it is very hard. Much easier with a new one. 2. old motor to trash. 3. starter in this case was inside the building at the MCC panel.
+wcmclellan small cracks are fine. The way I look at is the customer paid for those belts and I want maximum life before replacement. I look for major cracks and splits before replacement.
Should not have bought that Dayton crap pile motor. You will be lucky if it lasts a year. Should had bought a Leeson or Baldor motor. You could have gotten them cheaper than the ridiculous mark up that Grainger charges for their crap Dayton motors.
![[Re:all TREASURE] EP.6 in 방콕ㅣ🚩 쩡캠의 방콕 투어 빵 마이 와이 👍](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/uyFw-nItA_s/mqdefault.jpg)
You make the best step by step Hvac videos I have ever seen really enjoyed the cooling towers lesson and here from South Africa I say thank you and please continue I am a Mechanical engineer student and you give me insight on something I can go into business
I just had a flashback of replacing 35 ton Carlyle compressors in old Carrier 30 GT units in the early 1980s . We called that board technique a " Fred Flinstone sliding board ".
Also forgot the threaded holes in the bushing are usually used to force the sheave off the taper lock.
I usually put the pulley on about half way and move the motor around till I have the straight edge sitting on both pulleys just right. Belt tension is adjusted after everything is torqued down.
Really good content though sir, I have learned a lot through your videos
Clean the end of the shaft while the hub is pushed toward ths end bell of the motor. Rust was holding the hub. Now spray the shaft with penetrant. Should come right off after you wedge the hub open.
Mr. Ken. Is a genius. Plus. Guy with a great heart to share his knowledge. Thank you.
Great video ken. You are a very thorough technician. Very well done
Hi Ken, I really appreciate your video. In regard to putting anti-seize on the motor shaft and screws holding the bushing to the pulley: a Gates brochure states, "Note: Do not lubricate the bushing taper, hub taper, bushing bore, or the shaft. Doing so may
result in sprocket/sheave hub fracture. DO NOT USE LUBRICANTS." I would appreciate your comments about this statement. Thanks, Mike
+Mike MACLENNAN I would follow the Gases brochure. I was interested in the downstream maintenance and the sheave being able to come off the shaft. I have never had a problem with lube on shaft.
My friend, I give you some advise. To remove a pulley what you do is douse it first with wd40....or better yet silicone....SIT the motor on its end and with 2 big Sdrivers pry the hell of it out. Never fails. It will not damage it or brake it. The way you do it is the hard way. Let the weight of the motor work for you.
Thank you Ken 🙏🏾
Great job. You paid attention to detail.
What the wonderful person you are. Thanks for your explanation
Ken Check your video at 2:32 you have cracked insulation on A phase incoming, I would get the whole unit checked.
+Kathy Quinlan You are right Kathy, I missed that and I like how you look at the whole picture with great detail. The next time I go to that unit I will kill power to disconnect switch and put some electrical tape on it. The unit has been running good now for 9 months with no complaints.
good eye
Great video. I liked the tip of measuring from the foot mounting hole to the face of the motor sheave. That does assume that the sheaves we're aligned correctly to begin with.
Also, when you were removing the old sheave you probably should have checked for a set screw in the taperlock bushing. The hole on the perimeter of the bushing over the keyway. If you were going to replaced the bushing and sheave, why remove them from the old motor?
Should of sanded the end of the shaft down real good then some Dw40 Will come off like butter 🧈
Don't forget the "Anti-seize'' when putting the pulley back on
Hi Ken, I note that the old motor RPM 1745 and the new one RPM 1440 that's way the new one withdraw less AMPS, moreover the fan RPM shall checked after install the new motor and shall be as per fan name plate to keep the same air flow rate and static pressure.
Thanks, you are very correct. The motor speed is critical when matching up motors and I should have went over that.
Thats the 50 Hertz rating. Look at the data plate again...It says 1760 RPM for 60 Hertz.
excellent video.. very nice.. (i wish work with you to learn more ). thanks you very much..
awesome video ken, table idea will make my next motor change out easier.
excellent video excellenet explanation . thanks!!
You didn't mention comparing the service factor of the old and new motors, although you said the new motor may be more efficient.
I don't see what was wrong with the old sheave beside that you beat on it while removing it. Where the grooves worn?
Do you keep the old motors to see if they are repairable?
Where was the starter/overload located? I'm not familiar with HVAC, do they have the controls inside the building?
+Nicholas Smerk 1. When you line up your sheave in the unit and you are working with an old sheave it is very hard. Much easier with a new one.
2. old motor to trash.
3. starter in this case was inside the building at the MCC panel.
Hi Ken I noticed the belt at 41:31 has small cracks in them. How do you know that they ate still safe to use.?
+wcmclellan small cracks are fine. The way I look at is the customer paid for those belts and I want maximum life before replacement. I look for major cracks and splits before replacement.
very nice.try to stand up d old motor 4 easy to remove d pulley.
Great video I learned a lot thank you for sharing I just subscribed.
Could we sandpaper the shaft Sir
Yes, sandpaper or emery cloth is used a lot to remove the rust and smooth the shaft out.
@@KenTraining Thank you very much for your videos Sir.
niccc
you know how to a body of a car with using a gas weld
Should not have bought that Dayton crap pile motor. You will be lucky if it lasts a year. Should had bought a Leeson or Baldor motor. You could have gotten them cheaper than the ridiculous mark up that Grainger charges for their crap Dayton motors.
Yes, Grainger does charge ridiculous prices on their goods. Baldor is indeed a good motor.