I can’t see there being a huge difference by the time you do old wire system and then self levelling over it and cost of materials and labour . It probably won’t work out that more expensive,plus it’s a better more efficient system
Looks great, what a lovely tile! - Do you always use Decoupling mats? About to have a crack at tiling a 50 year old slab and wondering if it's overkill given the lack of movement or cracks.
What’s underneath?? Inside or outside …tell me a bit more about what your trying to do and I can give you the right advice …for instance if it’s outside like a flat roof area,you can use pedestals..If it’s a kitchen floor like the old bitumen tiles then a decent primer over the top like blue grit would be substantial..look forward to your reply
@@TheBeardedTiler thanks for the help 👍 its a kitchen floor, had the old marley asbestos tiles removed and its around 20mm thick bitumen floor leveled above a concrete floor. Wanting to lay porcelain tiles down 👍 Read that its none porous so sbr doesn't work the best?
@@arf4n166 yeah forget sbr ….so I would use Tilemaster prime grip …it’s a great multi purpose primer that’s got a great keying agent ..after that use a flexible adhesive and there’s no reason you can’t use a anti fracture..I only use this as it takes a loose wire system ..they do a dural base anti fracture or ditra matting …lay with a 6mm notched trowel and roll it to make sure it’s stuck …then tile as usual
What route did you take to become a tiler? Was it college or one of these city and guilds courses? I’m looking into it but want to go the beat route but also would struggle with college as I’m 31 and have a family to feed. Any advice?
I took the old skool route …learnt from a master tiler …I think a lot of courses are pretty basic and aren’t very good …you need to get in with a tiling contractor..to get straight into it ..there’s a lot to learn regarding preparation and materials. It’s the best way.I don’t have any qualifications!! Ring around take a low wage and work hard …because in a few years your reap the benefits..also keep watching learning and picking up tips from forums and channels like this …maybe a evening class to begin with might be worth your while …but your gonna have to pay I guess
@@TheBeardedTiler thank you bud. I don’t mind paying for the course and your right about learning from a master. My downside is not many tilers seem to be wanting to take on in Nottinghamshire which is a shame as it’s a fantastic carrier. Will keep watching your videos and picking bits up and I think it’s fantastic your taking the time to reply so again thank you very much. Keep up the good work
@@ng178jt Hi, i know your comment is a year old but was wondering how you got on with getting work? I've been tiling now 35 years and like Bearded Tiler i was taught 'on the job' by a very talented extremely skilled old school tiler. And you will never learn those skills on a paid course, they teach the real basics which is no where near enough to make you competent. And tiling is tough, physically hard on your body, i'm nearly 60 and about to throw the towel in!
No corners cut.
What a Brilliant job. A true master craftsman.
Why thank you …love your support and comments🙏🏻
Nice work ❤️
Really helpful, how long do you wait to lay tiles on the durabase? Thanks a lot
I leave it til next day !! Just so it gives a chance to set otherwise you might disturb matting.
customers tend to cheap out and go for a wire matting I’d love to have a go with that system.
I can’t see there being a huge difference by the time you do old wire system and then self levelling over it and cost of materials and labour .
It probably won’t work out that more expensive,plus it’s a better more efficient system
Great video bud
Thanks for the visit
Love your work...what size notched trowel you using
I use a 6mm to stick the matting down with and then a 10mm trowel on the top to fix tiles …flat back butter in the tiles
Looks great, what a lovely tile! - Do you always use Decoupling mats? About to have a crack at tiling a 50 year old slab and wondering if it's overkill given the lack of movement or cracks.
Are you using large format tiles ?? Underfloor heating ???
@@TheBeardedTiler 600 x 150 and no heating :) herringbone because my other half wants me to suffer more!
Sure your be fine
What adhesive did you use for the matting on the floor? Couldn't quite tell the subfloor, was it chipboard or concrete?
Thank you for watching and your comment…it was on cement board…usually use a wetter mix then usual of a rapid set s2 adhesive.
Hope this helps
Can you use this matting over a bitumen floor?
What’s underneath?? Inside or outside …tell me a bit more about what your trying to do and I can give you the right advice …for instance if it’s outside like a flat roof area,you can use pedestals..If it’s a kitchen floor like the old bitumen tiles then a decent primer over the top like blue grit would be substantial..look forward to your reply
@@TheBeardedTiler thanks for the help 👍 its a kitchen floor, had the old marley asbestos tiles removed and its around 20mm thick bitumen floor leveled above a concrete floor. Wanting to lay porcelain tiles down 👍 Read that its none porous so sbr doesn't work the best?
@@arf4n166 yeah forget sbr ….so I would use Tilemaster prime grip …it’s a great multi purpose primer that’s got a great keying agent ..after that use a flexible adhesive and there’s no reason you can’t use a anti fracture..I only use this as it takes a loose wire system ..they do a dural base anti fracture or ditra matting …lay with a 6mm notched trowel and roll it to make sure it’s stuck …then tile as usual
What route did you take to become a tiler? Was it college or one of these city and guilds courses? I’m looking into it but want to go the beat route but also would struggle with college as I’m 31 and have a family to feed. Any advice?
I took the old skool route …learnt from a master tiler …I think a lot of courses are pretty basic and aren’t very good …you need to get in with a tiling contractor..to get straight into it ..there’s a lot to learn regarding preparation and materials. It’s the best way.I don’t have any qualifications!! Ring around take a low wage and work hard …because in a few years your reap the benefits..also keep watching learning and picking up tips from forums and channels like this …maybe a evening class to begin with might be worth your while …but your gonna have to pay I guess
@@TheBeardedTiler thank you bud. I don’t mind paying for the course and your right about learning from a master. My downside is not many tilers seem to be wanting to take on in Nottinghamshire which is a shame as it’s a fantastic carrier. Will keep watching your videos and picking bits up and I think it’s fantastic your taking the time to reply so again thank you very much. Keep up the good work
@@ng178jt Hi, i know your comment is a year old but was wondering how you got on with getting work? I've been tiling now 35 years and like Bearded Tiler i was taught 'on the job' by a very talented extremely skilled old school tiler. And you will never learn those skills on a paid course, they teach the real basics which is no where near enough to make you competent. And tiling is tough, physically hard on your body, i'm nearly 60 and about to throw the towel in!