The governor can be set or reset if it's loose. Loosen the nut on the governor arm. Rotate the governor shaft coming out of the engine , on this model, counterclockwise, at the same time without moving the shaft, move the throttle linkage on the carb to wide open. With the shaft to the left and the throttle wide open then tighten the nut. The governor is now set. The springs and screws on the external throttle control are for finite tuning of the rpm.
This video saved me much aggravation. I had the same problem of unresponsive throttle control after a complete rebuild. I thought I'd have to take it apart again but all it needed was the long screw tightened. You earned a loyal subscriber!
Thanks a bunch. I need it a detailed video for this exact same mower, luckily I found yours and it fit the bill to help me get my mower running right again.
Hello there, just want to mention that around 16 mins, you say that you're able to move the throttle because you can move the throttle cable lever on the dash, but since you don't actually show the throttle plate moving inside the carburetor it's uncertain whether the throttle plate is really moving, I have the same engine and the same linkage and can also move the throttle lever but the throttle plate doesn't move at all, just putting in my $0.02 for whatever it's worth. Thanks for taking the time to film and upload the video, it's quite interesting and informative. JUST TO UPDATE: At 16:00 mins the screw with the spring that you mention should perhaps have a second spring at bottom half that counterbalances the top spring There's a video on you tube "A Look at the Throttle and Governor Linkages on an opposed twin Briggs" that shows a view of it during the first minute, i'm not sure if thats a factoty item but it looks as though it may be. Thanks again.
i have both the 19 and the 20 hp versions of the series - Murray for Both - one a Lawn Tractir - the Other a Garden Tractor - lawn tractor bis Red and Garden tractor is Green - Both with External Slide Rail Governors . the old double hook ended rod ran thriugh a long spring with a long screww that Also has the Lower Swing Arm for hrottle control behind the actual external governor
Hey thanks I hope this trick fixes my non throttle response issue cuz I just got an opposed twin the same engine and it won't throttle up at all by a throttle cable
I've had exact issue of my mower not shutting off, What I did was take off the top shroud, And find the ground cord that shuts off spark from coil, Which was chewed by mice. used electrical tape and it shuts off perfectly now.
Recently picked up one of these off Facebook market place and got it to run again. Got a chance to test how much torque these motors have when I got a job out of the blue while trying to take it for it's first lawn service trial to move furniture from one unit to another. Not sure if the it came with it or the previous owner had it added on but mine has a receiver for a 2" ball hitch which I was able to hook up my 4x6 utility trailer and move the furniture. It wouldn't run on the last leg of the move so I had to go back and figure out what happened which after some time a a mild parts cannon, it found it to be the coil when the engine has been run for a while and gets hot. It does restart when it cools down but I wonder if it's just the coil overheating or like on a youtube comment on another video, the coil being mounted to an aluminum block can't maintain the pick up from the flywheel magnet due to the gap widening from the expansion of metals.
You can shut off the fuel by whatever means you choose, ex clamp hose with vise grip. There is a 3/4" cap on the side of the carb bowl. Remove it and cpture the gas that comes out so you can see anything that comes out that should not be in gas, like dirt,crap and water. Behind the cap is the main jet. Which can be cleaned with a wire without removing or remove it with an allen drive and clear the jet and beyond with wire and carb cleaner.
I changed the needle on the carb. Changed oil and plugs the jets where plugged blow them out put everything back together didn't touch the throttle other then disconnect it. And put back on. Now it's running full throttle. Open or closed
I don't know how that would happen it ran great until I got some bad gas. And plugged the jets. I had fixed that and gas shot out of the carb I changed the needle and now it runs way to fast. Nothing was wrong until the bad gas
I haven't done one before but since they are flathead it involves taking out the valve springs to grind down the valves. I think it's supposed to be between .006 and .008 but double check.
Have you ever rebuilt one of these? I have a 17 and a 20… my 20 is newly aquired and after about 5m of running, i realize it's toast and seizing. I suspect bearing, but it's also spitting incredibly black oil out exhaust, guessing head gasket? Case oil isn't that black. Anyways, winter just hit and i don't got a garage, so rebuild will be next spring, just curious if it's even worth rebuilding
I have not rebuilt one of these, often if they have issues I put a different engine on the machine before selling it. They are great engines but not for the average consumer who is not mechanically inclined.
This video is like watching a younger version of me goofing around with the same kind of mower that the previous owner goof up trying this and that with no success. Briggs and mtd just love tinkerers! FAMOUS LAST WORDS: LETS SEE WHAT THIS DOES.
I’ve had a two LT1000s with the 19.5 twins and hydros (just bought one of them last Friday), but sadly both were in such bad shape that they gave up their pieces so others could live on; and, unfortunately, I have never been able to drive one of them. Both opposed twins are in my stash, so hopefully one of them will be transplanted someday so I can drive one! Something about the sound they produce at idle remind me a little of an air cooled VW engine. Can’t hate that!
@EllisMowersandmore thank you, but I figured out the problem it was the governor spring on the governor attached to the linkage to the carb. I ended up stretching the spring now, and it rests against the idle screw
I've been looking for weeks for a video or diagram of the throttle linkage setup for my neighbor's 2010 LT1000. It will crank, immediately rev super high, then die. I have an ancient MTD I saved from an abandoned property, and a 4yo Husky RZ5426. Neither has a throttle setup like this one. Already tackled the carb/fuel pump; no difference. This video has helped me troubleshoot, but I need more detailed info/video on the throttle/governor system and how to adjust it. Do you have any videos specific to throttle/governor issues for this model?
If it is a single cylinder Briggs engine, the adjustment is on the governor arm on the left side of the engine. Taryl Fixes All and other folks have videos on this engine. Never had to adjust the governor on a V twin.
Thank you, I think it was a combination of the cover being off and rubbing. The battery is only a 250CCA so it takes a couple hits with the key to turn it over. Haven't checked the starter though so will give that a look. Also think I'm going to back off the governor too like you suggested.
@@EllisMowersandmore Poorly adjusted valves will cause lurching, ie 1 good rotation then one hard rotation, when trying to start. If you search around there is a chart with all the clearances for various Briggs & Statton models. Just FYI hopefully it will help you in the future.
I have a zero turn. I am a single mom raised by my dad! Therefore, I work on all my own stuff! I recently let a man my moms age move onto my property and he made me believe that he was a great Michanic and he broke all my mower! (6) to be exact! Could you please help me?
sounds like the Carb has trash in it, ive had a few of these,, sometimes, you can take out the plug on the side of the carb and you will see the main jet, clean it,, ill bet it runs better,, if it dont, then its time to pull the carb and do a deep clean
Thank you, I did end up doing this around the 26 minute mark which I think blew the trash into the fuel pump which I had to clean out (off camera). Put some Seafoam in it and cut the grass and it runs like a champ now!
Here is one for anybody.... I have the same mower and engine. I brought said used and been fixing for past month. As it turns out mower was a lemon. At this stage I have cleaned and rebuilt carb. Flushed tank, new lines, new filters. New starter, new ignition, new silnoid. New battery, battery cables and many other things. Issue at this time now is mower will NOT rurn off when key is off. What I see as a pattern is it will turn off fine the first 3 min mower runs. When motor gets hot it stays running. I am going crazy at no luck and no info on this. Sure, everyone says easy fix kill wire is undone. NOT so here.... I have checked the coil, the wire to ignition and it is fine. I have contact cleaner all tabs. I even ran a new wire from coil and touched frame. It will spark but engine just won't shut down. Even put a momentary switch on kill wire and nothing. Engine stays running. So I got to pull the spark plug boots all the time which is crazy. Any takers for input on causes?
You have me stumped. I would do some more wire tracing. Could you have a ground that heats up and shorts out as the engine heats up? That would be my first guess.
@@joesphbaumgardner4579 The Coil Has to Have a Clean Contact on the Coil Stud Mounts and the Coil itself, If these are Rusty and it gets no Proper earth it won't shut the engine off. I know this is a old post but it may help somebody else out
The governor can be set or reset if it's loose. Loosen the nut on the governor arm. Rotate the governor shaft coming out of the engine , on this model, counterclockwise, at the same time without moving the shaft, move the throttle linkage on the carb to wide open. With the shaft to the left and the throttle wide open then tighten the nut. The governor is now set. The springs and screws on the external throttle control are for finite tuning of the rpm.
This video saved me much aggravation. I had the same problem of unresponsive throttle control after a complete rebuild. I thought I'd have to take it apart again but all it needed was the long screw tightened. You earned a loyal subscriber!
Glad to hear and thanks for watching!
I have that same issue with mine it won't throttle for nothing
Been looking for that throttle linkage set up for a few hours…finally! Now on to the troubleshooting!
Thanks a bunch. I need it a detailed video for this exact same mower, luckily I found yours and it fit the bill to help me get my mower running right again.
Awesome, thanks for watching and glad I was of help!
I have the same mower this video helped set the governor.iendup getting a carb
Hello there, just want to mention that around 16 mins, you say that you're able to move the throttle because you can move the throttle cable lever on the dash, but since you don't actually show the throttle plate moving inside the carburetor it's uncertain whether the throttle plate is really moving, I have the same engine and the same linkage and can also move the throttle lever but the throttle plate doesn't move at all, just putting in my $0.02 for whatever it's worth. Thanks for taking the time to film and upload the video, it's quite interesting and informative.
JUST TO UPDATE: At 16:00 mins the screw with the spring that you mention should perhaps have a second spring at bottom half that counterbalances the top spring There's a video on you tube "A Look at the Throttle and Governor Linkages on an opposed twin Briggs" that shows a view of it during the first minute, i'm not sure if thats a factoty item but it looks as though it may be. Thanks again.
This allowed me to fix my mower! Great job!
Awesome, glad I was able to help you out!
i have both the 19 and the 20 hp versions of the series - Murray for Both - one a Lawn Tractir - the Other a Garden Tractor - lawn tractor bis Red and Garden tractor is Green - Both with External Slide Rail Governors . the old double hook ended rod ran thriugh a long spring with a long screww that Also has the Lower Swing Arm for hrottle control behind the actual external governor
Great detailed video. This helped me understand my carb adjustments and what might need cleaning.
Thank you for sharing this.
Awesome, glad to be of help! It was a learning experience for me too.
Hey thanks I hope this trick fixes my non throttle response issue cuz I just got an opposed twin the same engine and it won't throttle up at all by a throttle cable
I've had exact issue of my mower not shutting off, What I did was take off the top shroud, And find the ground cord that shuts off spark from coil, Which was chewed by mice. used electrical tape and it shuts off perfectly now.
Recently picked up one of these off Facebook market place and got it to run again. Got a chance to test how much torque these motors have when I got a job out of the blue while trying to take it for it's first lawn service trial to move furniture from one unit to another. Not sure if the it came with it or the previous owner had it added on but mine has a receiver for a 2" ball hitch which I was able to hook up my 4x6 utility trailer and move the furniture. It wouldn't run on the last leg of the move so I had to go back and figure out what happened which after some time a a mild parts cannon, it found it to be the coil when the engine has been run for a while and gets hot. It does restart when it cools down but I wonder if it's just the coil overheating or like on a youtube comment on another video, the coil being mounted to an aluminum block can't maintain the pick up from the flywheel magnet due to the gap widening from the expansion of metals.
That's the most common failure on these.
You can shut off the fuel by whatever means you choose, ex clamp hose with vise grip. There is a 3/4" cap on the side of the carb bowl. Remove it and cpture the gas that comes out so you can see anything that comes out that should not be in gas, like dirt,crap and water. Behind the cap is the main jet.
Which can be cleaned with a wire without removing or remove it with an allen drive and clear the jet and beyond with wire and carb cleaner.
I changed the needle on the carb. Changed oil and plugs the jets where plugged blow them out put everything back together didn't touch the throttle other then disconnect it. And put back on. Now it's running full throttle. Open or closed
The throttle linkage might be hung up somewhere.
@@EllisMowersandmore it all moves when I move the lever
@@deanwest7623 It's possible that the governor let go internally, or you can try to adjust the governor.
I don't know how that would happen it ran great until I got some bad gas. And plugged the jets. I had fixed that and gas shot out of the carb I changed the needle and now it runs way to fast. Nothing was wrong until the bad gas
Can you tell me about the valve adjustment on those engines
I haven't done one before but since they are flathead it involves taking out the valve springs to grind down the valves. I think it's supposed to be between .006 and .008 but double check.
They are wonderful motors.
They are Bruce, I love how smooth they run.
@@EllisMowersandmore Yes the direct opposed is great. I had a tractor i could not fix the trans on and I got a great price just for the engine.
Beautiful engines too. Wish I had one
Have you ever rebuilt one of these? I have a 17 and a 20… my 20 is newly aquired and after about 5m of running, i realize it's toast and seizing. I suspect bearing, but it's also spitting incredibly black oil out exhaust, guessing head gasket? Case oil isn't that black.
Anyways, winter just hit and i don't got a garage, so rebuild will be next spring, just curious if it's even worth rebuilding
I have not rebuilt one of these, often if they have issues I put a different engine on the machine before selling it. They are great engines but not for the average consumer who is not mechanically inclined.
Do not blow high pressure air into the carb bowl via the main jet cap. It can rupture the fuel pump diaphram.
Doing this swap to mine can't figure our the wiring though
This video is like watching a younger version of me goofing around with the same kind of mower that the previous owner goof up trying this and that with no success. Briggs and mtd just love tinkerers!
FAMOUS LAST WORDS: LETS SEE WHAT THIS DOES.
This was my first experience working on an opposed twin. Lots of learning done for me in this video!
I’ve had a two LT1000s with the 19.5 twins and hydros (just bought one of them last Friday), but sadly both were in such bad shape that they gave up their pieces so others could live on; and, unfortunately, I have never been able to drive one of them. Both opposed twins are in my stash, so hopefully one of them will be transplanted someday so I can drive one! Something about the sound they produce at idle remind me a little of an air cooled VW engine. Can’t hate that!
They sound really cool! I picked up one this week but I don't know if the mower is too far gone.
hey i got the same machine, is there a oil filter on it I can't find one ..
These didn't have oil filters on them, or I haven't seen one with a filter at least.
My craftsman T240 has the Kohler KT725 22 horsepower 725cc V Twin Engine
I also have mulching blades on mine where do I find a mulching kit for this ??
If you search for a Craftsman 42" mulching cover you should be able to find one. They're pretty readily available.
@@EllisMowersandmore thanks bro
Can you show how to take the governor off
Haven't done that before but I bet there are a lot of vids out there since these opposed twins get modded pretty frequently.
not sure if your still active but my throttle wont rest against the idle screw i dont know how to fix it
You might just have to adjust your throttle cable. If it's an opposed twin that adjustment will be on the front of the engine.
@EllisMowersandmore thank you, but I figured out the problem it was the governor spring on the governor attached to the linkage to the carb. I ended up stretching the spring now, and it rests against the idle screw
@EllisMowersandmore one last question: What kind of oil does these mowers take and how much
How to adjust the valves on that
Since this is a flathead the only way to adjust the valves is to remove them and grind them down.
Wouldn't it cut off by instituting one or more of the safeties, like getting off the seat with the blades engaged?
It should, on this unit the seat safety was a little lazy to come back. I do know that it will start with the blades engaged.
Ellis Mowers, yikes!
Why are you pulling the choke when you are trying to test the idle speed and throttle rang ?
They are separate cables on this mower, probably should just keep it off. I think I was trying to keep it running.
I've been looking for weeks for a video or diagram of the throttle linkage setup for my neighbor's 2010 LT1000. It will crank, immediately rev super high, then die. I have an ancient MTD I saved from an abandoned property, and a 4yo Husky RZ5426. Neither has a throttle setup like this one. Already tackled the carb/fuel pump; no difference. This video has helped me troubleshoot, but I need more detailed info/video on the throttle/governor system and how to adjust it. Do you have any videos specific to throttle/governor issues for this model?
If it is a single cylinder Briggs engine, the adjustment is on the governor arm on the left side of the engine. Taryl Fixes All and other folks have videos on this engine. Never had to adjust the governor on a V twin.
Will adjusting the governor fix my 17.5 briggs & Stratton engine bogging down
If the governor is working properly that would not be the cause of it bogging down.
@@EllisMowersandmore The other thing is when you throttle up it’s not very responsive
Great video
Thank you and thanks for watching!
i can do all that but how can i stop the same tractor from surging?
Best to do a carb clean to try and fix the surging.
also there is something hitting when you crank it over. im guessing your starter might be missing a tooth
its running a little fast. needs about 1 and a half turns out on the high speed screw.
Thank you, I think it was a combination of the cover being off and rubbing. The battery is only a 250CCA so it takes a couple hits with the key to turn it over. Haven't checked the starter though so will give that a look. Also think I'm going to back off the governor too like you suggested.
@@EllisMowersandmore Poorly adjusted valves will cause lurching, ie 1 good rotation then one hard rotation, when trying to start. If you search around there is a chart with all the clearances for various Briggs & Statton models. Just FYI hopefully it will help you in the future.
lol set the parking brake so the seat safety switch doesn't kill the motor when you get off to find something to shut the engine off
The ground wire was unplugged at the engine which is the ground wire for the ignition switch and safety switches.
Nice job. Check out the starter bendix and flywheel.
Wiatin for parts 2 and 3.
Thank you, I think it was due to the cover being loose but will give it a look. Thank you, part 2 should get posted tomorrow.
I have a zero turn. I am a single mom raised by my dad! Therefore, I work on all my own stuff! I recently let a man my moms age move onto my property and he made me believe that he was a great Michanic and he broke all my mower! (6) to be exact! Could you please help me?
Looks like you have a lot to fix! Feel free to comment or email ellis@ellismowers.com with your mowers and what's wrong with them.
Yep shotgun then back hole
sounds like the Carb has trash in it, ive had a few of these,, sometimes, you can take out the plug on the side of the carb and you will see the main jet, clean it,, ill bet it runs better,, if it dont, then its time to pull the carb and do a deep clean
Thank you, I did end up doing this around the 26 minute mark which I think blew the trash into the fuel pump which I had to clean out (off camera). Put some Seafoam in it and cut the grass and it runs like a champ now!
Here is one for anybody.... I have the same mower and engine. I brought said used and been fixing for past month. As it turns out mower was a lemon. At this stage I have cleaned and rebuilt carb. Flushed tank, new lines, new filters. New starter, new ignition, new silnoid. New battery, battery cables and many other things. Issue at this time now is mower will NOT rurn off when key is off. What I see as a pattern is it will turn off fine the first 3 min mower runs. When motor gets hot it stays running. I am going crazy at no luck and no info on this. Sure, everyone says easy fix kill wire is undone. NOT so here.... I have checked the coil, the wire to ignition and it is fine. I have contact cleaner all tabs. I even ran a new wire from coil and touched frame. It will spark but engine just won't shut down. Even put a momentary switch on kill wire and nothing. Engine stays running. So I got to pull the spark plug boots all the time which is crazy. Any takers for input on causes?
You have me stumped. I would do some more wire tracing. Could you have a ground that heats up and shorts out as the engine heats up? That would be my first guess.
Change coil .
About only thing I have not done is change coil. I will do that.
@@joesphbaumgardner4579 The Coil Has to Have a Clean Contact on the Coil Stud Mounts and the Coil itself, If these are Rusty and it gets no Proper earth it won't shut the engine off. I know this is a old post but it may help somebody else out
The ground tho the magneto is not hooked ur is what kills engin
Yes I found the loose ground and fixed it.
More attack less yak. My suggestion as you drag stuff on with to much talking. Speak less, get to the point, and get on with it.
Junk the Briggs and put in a Kohler Engine