Question, why did you double the neutral wire up in the ceiling rose? There was a spare terminal you could’ve used? Any particular reason you done this.
Hi Gaz. You’re getting your feed presumably from a 6A protected lighting circuit. However, most fan installations indicate that the fan should be protected by a 3A fuse. Hence, just checking that you wouldn’t feed to the fan via a FSU fitted with a 3A cartridge fuse and then through a 3-pole Fan isolator switch? Personally I wouldn’t use a FSU but ‘technically’ you’re then not following manufacturer’s instructions 😶
This should help for my other TH-cam channel 👍🏻 GENIUS 🛁 - Bathroom fan isolator in a SINGLE module grid - clever thinking from Knightsbridge th-cam.com/video/QhWn9AUj0GU/w-d-xo.html
Excellent demonstration Gaz , but I have to bust your chops on one minor point, you put the earth in a separate terminal hole from the existing two earths you should have doubled the end over you the so called rule if a a single conductor is terminated on its own double the end over . Fantastic video as always GAz👍
@@GSHElectrical dose it matter if you double the end over or not on a ceiling roses? I not sure it does , as the terminals are small enough to accept a single conductor without doubling the ends over so it probably a personal choice. Don’t think I was having a pop at you Gaz , I wasn’t ,I was just saying that the so called rule is we should double the ends over on single conductor . Personally I never do on lighting except for the switch. So it was a great demonstration Gaz. and to get a three core into an already fully occupied ceiling roses and make it look that neat and tidy is hard enough without doubling over the ends .
@@GSHElectrical Extractor fan in shower cubicle would have to be an extra low voltage unit 12Volts with a separate transformer mounted away from the shower in a safe zone these units are made for Showers -Bathrooms
Why aren't you suggesting that a double pole switch fused spur to downgrade the fuse to suit the fan installed as most fan manufacturers put in the instructions that you install one ,in fact one electrical manufacturer sells a a double pole grid switch which is a fuse
I was always shown to use a fcu/ fan isolator to 3a fuse. Also fan isolator only needed if no window in bathroom i believe You can get a fan isolator with a fuse holder in also
I was working in a house less than 5 years old . The so called electrician used the black in the triple as the neutral and the grey as the switch live. On the bathroom fan .Checked the smoke alarms and yes black used for neutral. Moral of the story is double check and don’t assume Some fan manufacturers specify a 3 amp fuse. What’s the view on that .
A bathroom fan is unlikely to have a power rating more than about 15 watts so 3amp fuse is fine if the fan is fed from a fused connection unit, 15w /230v = 0.065 amps. but in Gary’s video he is talking about feeding the fan from the lighting circuit therefore it is protected by the 6amp MCB/ RCBO for the lighting circuit.
Crystal clear - BS7671 says you need to install to manufacturer's instructions. 3 amp fuse in a fused spur off you go. (Have a look at the wiring gauge inside the product, soon see why...)
Most (decent) fan suppliers (Envirovent are the ones I use) seem to have updated their instructions recently to say that it's fine if run from a local lighting circuit protected by 6A (It's not that uncommon to find lighting circuits on 10A). I refuse to use a brand that doesn't say that now, though I've also used the Click range to make up an isolation switch with fuse carrier in a single plate. Does beg the question whether you fuse the permanent live or the switched live, or both though!
I've watched your videos from time to time while I'm on TH-cam tho it's more for trainees. But today you says something that over the years I'm puzzled with. There's nothing wrong with it, but, why on earth every where you goes, doing work on site it is the black they wants you to use for the permanent? My argument is at all times, if you comes out a DB to supply an equipment 9.999999 times out of ten you comes out with brown. So why not keep brown permanent? Instead of switching over to black if using a 3 core? If you can't identify the cable throughout the installation you shouldn't be doing it then, I know some will say if I use black I know that's the permanent you don't get mixed up.
Imo using black as switch makes sense too since you can slap a bit of brown sleeving on it, identifying it as a switch line the same way you would /w a blue
@@UnimportantAcc of course it does, but everyone seems to bent on black benn you for permanent on every installation. Like I've said nothing wrong with using it, but don't see the sense of not wanting to use brown throughout.
I agree that using black as switched live (with brown sleeving) makes the most logical sense. In a light switch using switch drops, the switched live core (blue or black depending on age) has brown (or red) oversleeving to show that it's a switched live - so seeing a cable with brown oversleeving would mean switched live in both situations rather than having to work out which is which. Never assume though, given how rarely I find sleeving actually in place.
UK bathroom extraction is bizzare. No one puts the light on in the day when showering so the extraction is non existent.- "correct you dumb fool but you have turn the light on after showering to extract the moisture"
Yet another youtuber person not installing a fuse inline for the fan, don't you youtubes ever read the instructions that are supplied? Come on if m8 if you are going to make a how to video don't you think it should be correctly done?
A master at his job !
Question, why did you double the neutral wire up in the ceiling rose? There was a spare terminal you could’ve used? Any particular reason you done this.
You are extremely good tutor, keep up the good work.
Thank you.
Great guidance and tuition, much appreciated
Thanks
These videos are brilliant.
Thanks 👍🏻
Please how do we identify videos that are for level 3 on your pages ?
I always fit fuse protection now to extract fans
Well that helped me a lot. Thanks...😊👍
Good stuff Gaz
Thanks 👍🏻
Hi Gaz. You’re getting your feed presumably from a 6A protected lighting circuit. However, most fan installations indicate that the fan should be protected by a 3A fuse. Hence, just checking that you wouldn’t feed to the fan via a FSU fitted with a 3A cartridge fuse and then through a 3-pole Fan isolator switch? Personally I wouldn’t use a FSU but ‘technically’ you’re then not following manufacturer’s instructions 😶
This should help for my other TH-cam channel 👍🏻
GENIUS 🛁 - Bathroom fan isolator in a SINGLE module grid - clever thinking from Knightsbridge
th-cam.com/video/QhWn9AUj0GU/w-d-xo.html
I specially avoid fans that have that requirement, completely idiotic design when they know that the fan will come off a 6a circuit.
We're not in the EU anymore so can we have our old colors back ?
Only if you also want pounds shillings and pence. (lb/sh/d- 'libra/solidos/denarius)
@@ef7480 Great idea. Lets go back to real money !
And bring back the gold standard ! :)
Question. Should that fan isolator not have a 3A fuse?
See manufacturers instructions and link in comments to another video Sergio 👍🏻
@@GSHElectrical Cheers Gaz. As always you are a legend. Keep up the great work.
Could you possibly do a video how to do this using the 2 plate method?
👍🏻
👍🏻
@@GSHElectrical Thank you. The videos are great and very helpful
I would be grateful for this as well.
Why they changed black as neutral i Don know
Excellent demonstration Gaz , but I have to bust your chops on one minor point, you put the earth in a separate terminal hole from the existing two earths you should have doubled the end over you the so called rule if a a single conductor is terminated on its own double the end over .
Fantastic video as always GAz👍
If you have watched the series I talk about when to double over and the reason for it and when I don’t
@@GSHElectrical dose it matter if you double the end over or not on a ceiling roses? I not sure it does , as the terminals are small enough to accept a single conductor without doubling the ends over so it probably a personal choice. Don’t think I was having a pop at you Gaz , I wasn’t ,I was just saying that the so called rule is we should double the ends over on single conductor . Personally I never do on lighting except for the switch. So it was a great demonstration Gaz. and to get a three core into an already fully occupied ceiling roses and make it look that neat and tidy is hard enough without doubling over the ends .
@@GSHElectrical it was a question more than a statement. And not a reflection on you or how you made the connections .
Where do I buy tge wires that contain the black and grey?
They were not even in B & q
Try CEF. Three core and earth cable. I think I saw it in Wickes recently as well.
Hi... To rewire a bathroom extractor fan do you have to break down the wall or ceiling?please answer
Ask your electrician...
How would you wire a fan if the feeds loop at the switches and not the ceiling rose
Wire from switch you should have permanent feed and neutral plus switch feed and earth
i thought having an extractor fan in the bathroom you'd have to make it 12v no ?
No 👍🏻
@@GSHElectrical Extractor fan in shower cubicle would have to be an extra low voltage unit 12Volts with a separate transformer mounted away from the shower in a safe zone these units are made for Showers -Bathrooms
Why aren't you suggesting that a double pole switch fused spur to downgrade the fuse to suit the fan installed as most fan manufacturers put in the instructions that you install one ,in fact one electrical manufacturer sells a a double pole grid switch which is a fuse
Yeah people remove roses in bathrooms. Need to put it back or junction box.
I was always shown to use a fcu/ fan isolator to 3a fuse. Also fan isolator only needed if no window in bathroom i believe
You can get a fan isolator with a fuse holder in also
I was working in a house less than 5 years old . The so called electrician used the black in the triple as the neutral and the grey as the switch live. On the bathroom fan .Checked the smoke alarms and yes black used for neutral. Moral of the story is double check and don’t assume
Some fan manufacturers specify a 3 amp fuse. What’s the view on that .
A bathroom fan is unlikely to have a power rating more than about 15 watts so 3amp fuse is fine if the fan is fed from a fused connection unit, 15w /230v = 0.065 amps. but in Gary’s video he is talking about feeding the fan from the lighting circuit therefore it is protected by the 6amp MCB/ RCBO for the lighting circuit.
Alway look at the manufacturers instructions
Note you don’t necessarily need an isolator but it’s stated in the instructions 👍🏻
Alway look at the manufacturers instructions
Note you don’t necessarily need an isolator but it’s stated in the instructions 👍🏻
Crystal clear - BS7671 says you need to install to manufacturer's instructions. 3 amp fuse in a fused spur off you go.
(Have a look at the wiring gauge inside the product, soon see why...)
Most (decent) fan suppliers (Envirovent are the ones I use) seem to have updated their instructions recently to say that it's fine if run from a local lighting circuit protected by 6A (It's not that uncommon to find lighting circuits on 10A). I refuse to use a brand that doesn't say that now, though I've also used the Click range to make up an isolation switch with fuse carrier in a single plate. Does beg the question whether you fuse the permanent live or the switched live, or both though!
I've watched your videos from time to time while I'm on TH-cam tho it's more for trainees. But today you says something that over the years I'm puzzled with. There's nothing wrong with it, but, why on earth every where you goes, doing work on site it is the black they wants you to use for the permanent? My argument is at all times, if you comes out a DB to supply an equipment 9.999999 times out of ten you comes out with brown. So why not keep brown permanent? Instead of switching over to black if using a 3 core? If you can't identify the cable throughout the installation you shouldn't be doing it then, I know some will say if I use black I know that's the permanent you don't get mixed up.
Thanks for your input and continued support. It will be interesting to see if others comment on this post. All the best Gaz
Imo using black as switch makes sense too since you can slap a bit of brown sleeving on it, identifying it as a switch line the same way you would /w a blue
@@UnimportantAcc of course it does, but everyone seems to bent on black benn you for permanent on every installation. Like I've said nothing wrong with using it, but don't see the sense of not wanting to use brown throughout.
I agree that using black as switched live (with brown sleeving) makes the most logical sense. In a light switch using switch drops, the switched live core (blue or black depending on age) has brown (or red) oversleeving to show that it's a switched live - so seeing a cable with brown oversleeving would mean switched live in both situations rather than having to work out which is which.
Never assume though, given how rarely I find sleeving actually in place.
In a domestic install in NZ & Aussie this method is considered bad practice,the feeds can only come into the switch plate.
Now do it it above your head while you're balancing on step ladders in a dark room !
UK bathroom extraction is bizzare. No one puts the light on in the day when showering so the extraction is non existent.- "correct you dumb fool but you have turn the light on after showering to extract the moisture"
Yet another youtuber person not installing a fuse inline for the fan, don't you youtubes ever read the instructions that are supplied? Come on if m8 if you are going to make a how to video don't you think it should be correctly done?
Your first mistake was using a greenwood fan