@@AB0BA_69I plugged my tire, but guess I did a shitty job cuz I had to top it off every now and then. Then I got another nail in the tire and I just got a new tire 😅😩
@@dangerousmythbuster Because he didn't bother taking the tire off in order to find the nail and just gave up when he couldn't see it. That's not a sign of someone who'd even know that tires can be patched.
The matte paint is also a big red flag to shops. It's MUCH harder to blend matte paint and a lot of shops just don't have the level of craftsmanship to properly blend paint work.
@@bwofficial1776 100% with you. The car that he has here seems to look alright but there I live there seems to be a fad where people get their Teslas (which already look like toy cars to me) painted with a matte paint and the craftsmanship is just awful. There is at least 1 green one that looks like a green tax army figurine or something, I just can't imagine spending that much money to drive around something so vomitus.
43:33 fun fact about the max speed setting, if you slam the pedal to the ground really quick, the car will override the max speed setting and let you punch it in case you need to do something evasive.
I get two rules out of this that basically are true for any kind of car from any manufacturer: - Getting the latest and greatest is cool but maybe wait for two model years if you don't want to deal with the bugs - Get a simple colour with a shiny clear coat if you want it to be easy to maintain/repair
I agree. This is one of the things keeping me from an EV right now. Other than perhaps one company none of the car makers have made enough EVs to get the bugs out, and I am not a big fan of the CEO of that one company. The EGMP cars look awesome though. Maybe in ~5 years I will consider the KIA EV9 or something similar.
@@DanielBoger GM has been quietly making quite a few EVs in the form of the bolt. We've got one in my household and beside the battery recall (which is hard to pin on GM since it was LG that messed up) It has been a totally normal experience with no bugs to speak of. All of the controls and infotainment and whatever are parts bin parts so it feels like any regular car to use day to day.
True story. I got the 17 Niro, which was great. It was the first year they made it. But the 18 is when they added the plug in option so you can also charge it while parked at home.
The radar sensors on the front of a car are usually mmWave sensors which use the 60-108 GHz frequency band. These frequencies are heavily reflected/absorbed by water, so a few mm of snow/ice will be enough to stop them working.
I have some sort of low-speed radar sensor on my 2017 Mazda 3 that'll stop the car automatically if it senses it'll hit something. It to will throw an error when it's sleeting a little bit and even a little snow builds up on the front of the car.
My Leaf's ProPilot did this last winter. I was driving to the store, had ProPilot engaged, and I heard a beep and saw a message on the dash saying it had turned itself off because the front radar was obstructed. Not really a big deal since I had my hand on the wheel anyways (because that's how you're supposed to drive a car with ADAS) and I just drove the last 15 minutes myself. I got out and, sure enough, the radar was packed with snow.
I rented a Kia EV6 for a few days (the sister car to the Ioniq 5) and I thought it was a great car. Only trouble is, ironically, I thought it was too big. I'm honestly not sure what my next car is going to be because I want an EV, but all of the current offerings are very large.
hyundai are planning Ioniq 6 7 9 and all the other numbers (the 6 has already been shown, i don't know if it's actually a different size). and they'll all be different shapes. I'm really hoping for a hothatch personally.
Y'know, this seems like a good place to complain about how manufacturers seem to be desperate to give drivers more reasons to look away from the road. Everything's touch-screen or capacitive; it's getting hard to even find a replacement radio unit that has a volume knob. Being able to feel and activate something with your fingertips is pretty freakin' important!
Very much agree. My car is 16 years old and one of the things I like about it is that I can reach and use all the controls with one hand, without taking my eyes off the road. Everything is within easy reach and has tactile feedback, things click, have detents etc.
Some car magazine put a 20-year-old Volvo with buttons for everything up against newer cars with screens for everything. Not only was it faster to do things in the old Volvo resulting in less time with the eyes off the road, the drivers preferred the physical buttons.
@@bradhaines3142 My new car has the brake hold and heated seat buttons on the screen. It's annoying having to do 2-4 taps to turn those on or off when other cars from the same carmaker have physical buttons that are perfectly fine. Other than that, I use auto climate control and the steering wheel buttons for the radio but I'd still rather have buttons I can blindly push. I never had to take my eyes off the road to hit the exact preset button in my old car from 2001.
My car has buttons for the heated seat, knobs for the radio, knobs for the climate control, and controls on the wheel for the radio, hands free voice controlled Bluetooth, and cruise control. Why the hell would I want a new one?
The Android Auto glitch may actually be a USB port glitch. It's pretty well-documented that some early HI5s got either a bad batch of ports, or they were poorly installed. If you take it in to the dealer, they can swap it our for you quickly, and that issue should go away.
Great as usual! I own an Ioniq5 for nine months now and love it just as much. A little note on level 0 regen: It is actually recommended to use it once in a while because otherwise corrosion can accumulate on the breaking disks. This might be more relevant in humid climates but it can actually become bad enough for premature (and expensive) disk replacement. Level 0 regen abrades the disks to keep them in good shape. I use it once in about 1...2 months.
As motorcycle owners can confirm, cars get rust on the brake discs very quickly, like within a couple weeks. I can see how habitually light brakers would never clean that rust up.
@@andrewahern3730 I usually try not to go to heavy on the brakes but when it rains I'll usually do a couple semi-hard brakes (not too hard as my insurance doesn't like that) before leaving the parking lot.
Yes, level 0 regen abrades the disks to keep them in good shape but only the first ten times the brake pedal is used after switching to level 0. From the manual (UK version): Selecting 0 step of the regenerative braking system, the brake disc cleaning function is operated around 10 times.
Just watched Aging Wheels going over his experience with the Polestar Polestar 2 at the year mark and glad to see a video of how the Ioniq 5 has been treating you at the year mark!
Neither were really a "review" of the car and especially not this one. There isn't even a test drive in the video. Honestly, the whole thing sounds like advocacy more than a review. For example, the lack of shops willing to do work on the car. That's a BIG issue. You can't just say "oh, it's not the car's fault" or offering paint that cannot stand up to a car wash. If you aren't from a rust area, you have no clue how important it is to run your car through a car wash during the winter. After a snow storm, you can see thousands of cars covered with a white haze down towards the bottom of the car. That's all road salt. In these areas, cars can rust out in 3 or 4 years if you are not diligent about the washing of the car. The "frame" rails rot. All the panels rot. It rusts out all the brake lines. It damages all the rubber in your suspension. Road salt is absolutely brutal on a car.
About the radar and snow, in my experience, yes those 2-3 mm of snow will knock out the front assist radar. It happens on all trucks equipped with it we serve at our shop, it happens with all our service and rental vans, it happens with every car brand I've test driven which is most of the European and Asian ones. Basically if you get wet claddy snow your radar gets blocked.
Thank you. I was thinking of the frequency used by the radar being resonant within the ice crystals and so returning a signal for a large solid object very close to the front of the car.
I have the same experience with snow building up with VW cars. My T6.1 Multivan is more effected than our 300HP Ateca Cupra since the T6.1 is a rolling box. But the manufacturers are working on the issue. Last year on the „electronica“ trade show they showed heating elements that do not effect the radar performance. Actually last time I had to decide between the T6.1 and the Ioniq5 it was a very close race -
I wonder how much it adds to the cost and energy for the manufacturers who use heated RADAR modules that, to a point, don't accumulate snow. Audi definitely has them, I think Volvo too. My Nissan LEAF has definitely also experienced snow disabling the RADAR. Oddly enough, you can't just clear off the snow/ice and re-enable the system by turning ProPilot on and off. You have to turn off and on the car completely.
I've made it a personal rule to never have a special paint. The reality is that I have enough in my life to worry about, and as amazing matte paint looks I know for a fact I'd be stressing out over it daily. Part of the reason why I like a basic white but... thanks to Honda, I needed my roof repainted because they can't do white without flaking off in sheets.
Yeah, princess-y equipment, like countertops, refrigerators, or cooktops that require special cleaning procedures or products, and may sustain damage from contact with normal solvents, just aren't worth the price of admission, especially if you don't have full control over your space and someone might unknowingly harm a finish or degrade a surface while trying to do you a favour. Same with fancy paint - my car was in a rental fleet before I got it, and they went with a lovely sparkly metallic blue. Unfortunately, that fancy paint means if I need something like a replacement bumper cover, over half the darn cost is going to come from trying to match that stupid paint.
@@Archgeek0 part of the vin is the paint code, thats all they need to match the paint. also it should be in your owners manual. also there are a lot of parts that come without paint, so you have to have them painted anyway. which color doesnt mean much
@@bradhaines3142 Oh finding the match was no problem. The problem was the metallic blue with little metal flecks in it for the sparkles was both not super easy to get (they had to order some from out of state), and not cheap because it was fancy and dumb, and I think it actually took an extra step to apply, too, just to be annoying.
I like how comprehensive this is. The Ioniq 5 just has that aesthetic that gets peoples eyes and having been presented solutions here to the problems it could have, the ioniq 5 has got my heart.
We got an Ioniq 5 late 2022, and unlike you we've had a very cold and snowy winter, snowiest in a while. We did manage 130 miles in ~10-20 F weather. It was our first long trip, and we were played it safe and relied on the heated seats to save charge. Battery went from 100% to 20%. Not gonna lie, it was a scary ride and I prayed that the Electrify America station worked once we got there. But all was well and I'm glad to know how it does in the cold!
The “NAV” indicator is there to tell you that the navigation map-based automatic speed change feature is available. It turns green when it is actually slowing you down on a curve. Otherwise, it is white (in my EV6 at least) when it’s available but not active. (If you turn off the navigation based speed change function, the “NAV” indicator never appears, even if you’re on a freeway with HDA2 active.)
@@aerialbugsmasher With that "NAV" 'feature' slowing you down in the curves, would it be like crunching down from a 100kph cruise control down to 60kph in a long sweeping gentle bend which is otherwise perfectly safe and sane to keep doing 100kph in? I'd hate to buy an EV with navigation-based cruise control that drops 40% of its speed in bends that are perfectly fine to traverse whilst doing the open road national limit. I live in a part of Rural NSW Australia where the roads between towns is 2-lane blacktop (1 lane each direction) rated for 100kph (which is national highway speed), with a lot of sweeping bends flitting around oddly shaped farmland pastures and over moderately tall hills with flowing slopes, where a 2003 Nissan X-Trail T30 (the T32 is the Nissan Rogue in the US) can sit around 100kph at 3K RPM in 5th on cruise control and just glide along the roads and never drop speed or increase revs to tackle the hills.
@@ElNeroDiablo on one occasion it dropped from the equivalent of 120kph to about 90ish. Very dramatic for what should've been a non-issue. It was on a long sweeping merge lane. Fortunately you can turn this specific function off so it's not a big deal. But it's annoying that it's on by default from the factory took a while to find how to turn it off.
@@aerialbugsmasher JFC, that's moronic to drop about a quarter of your velocity by default because it's a curve or merge lane. Glad it can be turned off at least, but such a setting is realistically too flipping aggressive.
@@Cheepchipsable It's not like the cables are open under there. I'd say it's perfectly safe (you do drive over puddles that splash their crap all into there anyway) The undercarriage-washers aren't exactly "super-high power" anyway, so... eh, I'd do it.
Huge learning lesson - always ask the dealer or corporate office of your car manufacturer where they recommend repairing your car. In California the insurance company can't tell you where to take your car for body work. Even if it's "certified" with the insurance company, it's really not advised to take your car to a place for any work that doesn't specialize in your car make.
Speaking of lane centering and some systems favoring the left or right side of the lane, the new VW ID4 software will let the driver adjust where in the lane to "center" the vehicle. It's probably not the only vehicle to have this feature, and it will probably become more common as time goes on.
@@grn1 I don't hug the left line, in particular ion two-way roads, because that's where oncoming traffic lives. And there are a lot of bad drivers out there. I'd rather have the foot or two of extra clearance from center-line huggers.
I really appreciate you sharing and documenting this. I'm not getting an electric car anytime soon, but I really enjoyed learning about yours and your experience with that model. Thanks again.
@@Sunday_Woodward Sometimes the wiring harness or programming is different. On some cars like VWs you can connect to the system and change the taillight setting from US to EU but that might not be possible on the Hyundai.
Just because it is an appliance, this does not mean it has to be milquetoast. Appliances too can be interesting, as evidenced by several previous videos.
Thank you for confirming that detail about BlueLink with the DTC information. I actually got a job at a Hyundai dealership a couple of months ago and no one informed me that BlueLink shows the actual code information instead of just a generic warning (which is what I assumed it did the entire time). EDIT: I can confirm that Hyundai essentially just sends the dealers what it thinks will sell, the dealer has little to no choice in the matter over what inventory they receive. "Ordering" a car is basically nonexistent, as far as I'm aware.
My EV6 is also about as old as your Ioniq 5 so I'll play along with the video :) 7:00 I honestly think you would've had a much easier time if you had a normal coat of paint. When I got my EV6 my dealer actually talked me out of buying the same matte paint (I got white instead) for this exact reason. No one likes working on it. 8:40 when I took my EV6 in to get a software update (before OTA was ready) I actually set the car to valet mode before handing it over. Kia's version of the same app, "Kia Connect" told me when the car was started, the fastest it drove and how long it was on for all in real-time whilst I sat and waited in the dealership with a cup of tea. 14:20 the boot being open means the car's system stay active. I've had this happen in multiple cars, not just my current EV. In my Kia, it actually comes up on the Dashboard (and it used to do the same in my Optima) that the battery will be discharging because you've not allowed the computer to shut-down. After a couple of updates to my Kia, if you wait for long enough with the car unlocked you'll eventually get the shut-down animation on the central dash screen. 16:45 I charge between 00:30 to 04:30. My Kia did the opposite and it'd quietly abandon the charge schedule and jut start charging immediately! I'd have to stop the charge, unplug the cable, set the schedule and then start again. Mine works fine now, so I'm guessing an OTA was installed one night. 22:55 My Brother-in-law has a Jaguar iPace EV400 and it's been extremely reliable so far (touch wood). My Brother's Tesla Model 3 DM has been the opposite, needing a new radar module, new passenger side window motor and new boot motor within the first, what, year and a half? It's a Shanghai built model, too, which is supposed to be "better" than the California models. 26:00 I'm elated with my EV6, too! (Basically the same car). After having a Mustang and an Optima, I was done with traditional saloon and coupé body styles. I moved out of my parents house with the Optima and that was PAINFUL. Had to use my dad's then Qashqai to haul stuff around (he has a Niro EV now). 28:25 www.carsized.com :) 29:15 it's why I got the AWD EV6. Fast and it being more planted with a wider track means it drives closer to my old Mustang GT than many people probably realise (it helps that the European version I have is 2cm lower than the US version, too). 32:50 I average 3.4mi/kwh. The best I got on the motorway in my EV6 in summer is 3.9mi/kwh, which is, frankly, excellent. I don't have the heat pump so I abuse eco and "driver-only" heat mode in winter (got to -7c/19.4f this winter and I was still able to get around 2.5mi/kwh on the commute to work). 42:10 That's the camera. I've had the same errors pop-up on my EV6 because the camera was blocked. Maybe the weird chrome finish was blinding the camera on your Hyundai and swamping it out with pure white. 45:45 Maybe it's the USB cable. That happened to my phone and it stopped once I got a much higher quality cable. 48:17 This is why I massively prefer the interior of my EV6. The heated seats and wheel have physical buttons (but can also be controlled with voice) and the climate has physical knobs to turn for heat. In your Ioniq 5, press the voice button and say "driver's seat warmer level 1/2/3" and it'll do it for you. Same with "turn on/off the heated steering wheel" for, well, the wheel. 50:00 The air curtain thing feels more true for my EV6, which has a steep rake to the glass. I've never had to clear that off. Even in snow and salt I just hit the window heater and start driving and it all slips off effortlessly. It even helps with the rain. 51:45 I think it's based on the amount of re-gen the car is pulling in. If the "charge" bar is over a certain limit then the break lights will activate. That's what I've noticed with my EV6 when driving at night, even in iPedal. It's weird the Kia does that when the Hyundai doesn't. 55:20 Level 0 is meant as a true "off" to let the car coast like a traditional car would when freewheeling; you need it for very bad weather conditions. I use level 3 on B roads, level 1 on motorways and A roads, and iPedal in traffic (and if it's really bad traffic, I turn on auto steer and radar cruise and it takes all the stress out of stop and go). 57:30 In the rest of the world, the lower line of "pixels" are amber. So instead of the rear lights being four squares tall with break lights two rows tall, the international models have lights three rows tall, breaks one row tall, and then a one row tall amber strip at the bottom. Instead of the centre break row being brighter then the outer light, the entire three rows become the same brightness. The amber strip is on both the hatch and the body. 59:30 yes, lane keep will still be active. Weird you don't get an audible warning, though. On the EV6 it will actually make a "ding" and flash the steering wheel icon. I don't have the side camera and mine still works even when auto steer is off. 1:00:00 when NAV is active it will use sign recognition and the sat nav to keep your car at the correct speed limit. Drive the speed limit, turn on HDA, when Nav turns green it will now maintain safe speeds according to both signage and upcoming corners and traffic. 1:02:00 weirdly enough, this is fixed in my Kia. If you check the instrument binnacle whilst you're indicating to change lanes, the "distance" automatically crushes itself down to its lowest setting temporarily. It then slowly accelerates up to your posted speed, but slower than the car in front so your distance will be reached without you holding up traffic. I set mine to "4", FWIW. 1:03:50 it'll be the "crunching" of the distance. Maybe it's a bug with the i5 and not the EV6? I'd also buy this car again without second thought.
42:57 Hey I work in the service department at a Hyundai dealer. There is a way to turn the smart Cruise control and just use standard cruise control The driver may choose to switch to use the conventional Cruise Control mode (speed only control function) by following these steps: 1. Push the CRUISE button on the steering wheel to turn the system on. The cruise indicator will illuminate. 2. Push and hold the Vehicle-to-Vehicle Distance button for more than 2 seconds 3. Choose between "Smart Cruise Control" and "Cruise Control". When the system is canceled using the CRUISE button or the CRUISE button is used after the engine is turned on, the Smart Cruise Control mode will turn on. Hopefully this helps!!!
For charge scheduling, I'd look into using home automation to turn the charger on/off. My wife's Plug-In hybrid has a Level 1 charger for it, which is more than sufficient for her vehicle. The housing we're in is older and has not enough amperage to run everything at once, so I use a z-wave plug (rated for the same max as the outlet it's in) and HomeAssistant to enable/disable the charger as needed which has solved that particular issue. Similar to what you recommended with the automated breakers in your home electrification video.
I have an OpenEVSE unit, which is admittedly intended for geeks, but is also great. It'll do solar divert and charge timing and stuff out of the box, and it also has an HTTP interface for geeking out.
@@tinwhiskerSC But they aren't planned. They are true bugs. There is no sense of "we'll update it later with a software update" in those old cars. AND the bugs were generally nowhere near as bad. When they are, the government makes them recall and repair free of charge. By law they have to keep trying to contact you. Software sucks. Software has always sucked. They have always released buggy software. But most of the time, buggy software will not kill you and will not kill other people. Sure, there are embedded controllers in medical equipment, but this is to a different standard. The WORST idea ever is "full self driving" Cars are FAR too dangerous to give them autonomous control.
@@christo930 If the only measure were this vague "danger" you are talking about, then I take it you are against the increase in automation we have seen especially in recent decades in trains? And autopilots in planes must be your number one enemy. That is a lot to take on, so brave.
Visually, your car is exactly the one I'd like. As it turns out, most Subaru Forester owners(2015) will end up in that model. I just like a box on wheels, it makes sense. I'm hopeful they'll add a rear wiper one day. I continue to follow your progress updates.
As other commenters have noted, the issue with the sensors icing over and shutting off the Adaptive Cruise Control is fairly common - it happened to me the January day I bought my Kia Niro PHEV and drove it home from the out-of-state dealer. But just most owner's manuals and driving instructors will tell you that you should not be using cruise control in bad weather conditions, including snow and rain. I realize that sometimes a car can get splattered with gunk even when the roads are not that bad. But in the four years I've had my car, the few times the smart cruise has shutoff due to sensor error were also times when I probably should not have been using it in the first place.
I love hooking up a pressure washer to clean the underside of my car in -20 degrees and then continue to do manual labour for 30 minutes. I then love spending the time to put the equipment away afterwards..
Something to note about the Warmer button on the climate panel. If you press it to bring up the menu, pressing it again will bring you back to the previous screen you were on.
On the adaptive cruise, I'm right there with you. I know that at least some cars shorten the follow distance if you have a signal on, expecting that you'll have changed lanes by the time that you'd be too close. I like that system. Have also driven a Lexus that will ignore the follow distance if you rest your foot on the accelerator petal just a bit. Learned that after that car drove me crazy with it's super long follow distance that made lane changes a nightmare with cruise turned on.
Regarding the break-light behavior: As a new driver once I got rear ended, because the car in front of me stopped for no apparent reason at a green light. In my naivety i didn't keep my foot on the breaks because i expected to accelerate shortly after. Unfortunately the car behind me didn't notice i was still stopped and hit me. Ever since then i purposefully keep my break-lights on, whenever I'm stopped and don't move. This should be a must for any automatic system also!
I drive a manual and I sit at red lights in neutral with my foot off the brake all the time. If a car is coming up behind me I may step on the brake until they stop. It helps that my car is narrow enough that people can see around it to see that traffic isn't moving.
@@bwofficial1776 Yep. In a manual you can decelerate quite hard to a near stop without touching the brakes. It's never been an issue for me but I do try and be aware of what's behind me. If someone was too close, I'd probably apply some light brakes just for the light.
I just looked up the EU-Regulations on stop lamp illumination while in one-pedal mode. It is dependent on a deceleration value. They may come on at over 0.7 m/s² and must come on at over 1.3 m/s². So Hyundai had to change that for the US market, unless it never hits 1.3 m/s² while in one-pedal.
I went a little ways down a rabbit hole on US regulations on brakes, but couldn't find a specific deceleration threshold or limit for illuminating the brake lights ("stop lamps"). If anyone else can cite the regulation(s), I'd much appreciate it. I did see one offhand comment at aptera dot that "the" limit is 0.1 G, or 0.98 m/s², but w/o reference.
IMO if you really want matte look on a car, just have it wrapped. Don't mess with those matte paints for all of the above reasons. Adds an extra layer of protection on the actual paint job if you plan to sell it off eventually and fixes are relatively easy - just rewrap that part or the entire car (maybe for a new look).
Yeah, "Can't be taken through a car wash except VERY specific ones" is a dumb way to make a car. What about rain, road salt and sand, blown leaves and dirt, spray from the tires of other drivers... You know, normal stuff that happens to every car?
Yes. If it were my car I'd be way too worried about the rust and I would go ahead and do it and when the paint has lots of shiny spots on it then you can just wrap it as you say
@@MonkeyJedi99 If you go through a touchless wash with a matte finish it'll be fine. You just don't want anything like brushes gradually polishing that matte paint over time. Better yet, wash it yourself by hand if you can or hire a detailer.
Remember that water heater based timer switch that you made for your electric water heater. You can make the same for your Ioniq. Connect a 120V Kasa smart switch to a 40Amp 240V contactor ( assuming 7.2kw charger) then hook that up to a nema 14-50 outlet. Plug your car charger into the nema outlet and use the smart kasa light switch to throw the contactor. My ID.4 has broken schedule charging so I made one. I'll send info and pics if you want.
This is a much better option anyway. It's really the evse then you don't want providing power at certain hours, rather than the car not taking it a certain hours. Think about it this way, if you were on a road trip do you want it to not charge at electrify America because it's at the wrong time of day? Conversely if you replace your car and plug a different car in at home, do you want it to just start charging because it doesn't have the schedule? Implementing time of use scheduling, or excess solar consumption, in the car is completely the wrong place for it, it's the EVSE that you want handling that. Your DIY approach would work perfectly, however if you want a little more nuance, I recommend OpenEVSE which has been great for getting my car charging exclusively from excess solar power.
Maybe you can have a matte finish paint protection film applied to the matte paint finished surfaces. I did my entire car and it's expensive (and I still go through touchless carwashes) but maybe selected areas won't be so bad.
My Jeep had a software issue where CANBUS was staying live even with doors locked and armed. It sat for two days while I was in the hospital for surgery and came out to find it dead to the world. Used the stored key-in-fob to get in and climb to the back to get my jumper cables and someone came to help but 20 minutes later I still couldn’t even get a fob in ignition chime. Had to walk with my battery to oreillys and get a new one (old one tested at ~6v despite the jump attempt) and then shortly after ordered a jump pack off Amazon. Died once more before I got a dealer to flash the computer and fix the CANBUS drain. Used the jump pack and it cranked immediately, so evidently it just won’t accept a vehicle to vehicle jump. But now it gets so hot out I fret the idea of storing it in the vehicle. I don’t need my daily driver going up in flames if the jump pack does spontaneously combust.
Mine has a plain old lead-acid battery in it. No issues with heat. If it's properly charged, it will handle any cold temps you could possibly experience. Heat is not an issue.
51:52 I’m glad you’re making OPD a video topic! I’ve had a 2022 Bolt EUV since December of that year and I’ve always tried to get a feel for how the brake lights behave when I can see them in my rear view at night. I haven’t had any real *safety* concerns regarding its behavior, but I truly think OPD as a whole deserves some standardized behavior. Granted, we are biased in knowing what OPD is and how it behaves so I really hope you can lean into the “this is cool tech!” for the uninitiated. It’s similar to the amber turn signal topic in principle, but I think it’s a much more unheard of and new technology for the general public. Always worth resurfacing conversation around driving safety.
I had a 2020 Bolt and the behavior was as described (no brake lights when stopped), but I got a 2023 EUV and it does keep the brake lights enabled when fully stopped. So at some point this was changed, I assumed it was on the 2021 refresh but I don't know for sure.
I've been strongly eyeing the Ioniq 6 (Limited trim w/AWD) for a while now. I know it shares much of the same platform as the Ioniq 5, and I trust your opinion on these things, so I'm really glad you stand by your decision. That pushes me ever so slightly closer to making my own purchase decision. All of the random things you've experienced sound like tiny one-offs that can (theoretically) be improved with software updates, and I'll be sure to avoid the matte finish.
@@TheUnreadableUser Not yet. Still wanting to though. But right now my current car runs fine, despite its nearly 20 year age, so can't justify the cost.
I've had issues with body shops in west los angeles/beverly hills, spanning several years. My take on it is that the shops want easy body panel jobs or bumper jobs, and they don't want to handle interior issues/engine/suspension issues, OR these small jobs that are simple paint/replacement parts installs. Whenever I bring them small issues that I'm willing to pay for, they always give BS excuses as to why they "don't do that".
I hate that YT is pushing for shorter videos now and thus making content creators doubt people will watch 1 or 2 hour long videos. Personally I love them and they keep me company while working or calm me down at night. Please know that I, and maybe a bunch more people, will watch them.
I created a second private playlist for myself called Long Watch Later where I put 2 hour + video's. I also put frequently updated long series in there. I watch my normal Watch Later most of the time. Then when I run out of Watch Later or if I am doing something that requires focus I go to the Long one. For example, there are 24 video's in there currently with roughly 65 hours of watch time total. Several of them are Live Streams people did on TH-cam.
That push for shorter videos does mean that a lot of people may miss the longer ones so even if a majority of people want longer videos (which may not be the case) the actual number of views, and as a result the ROI of a longer video may not be worth it. That said TH-camrs that regularly put out longer content may not be as affected since the algorithms (there's more than one at work) tend to benefit consistency (this also means that posting videos on a schedule is hugely beneficial).
This kind of stuff is precisely I would also not work on EVs if I was in the same scenarios, you put yourself in a situation to be liable for these unknown factors. Manufacturer issue really, they need to do more standardization to ensure confidence in third party maintenance operations.
That was my thought too - they're afraid to do paint work with heated drying, and just applied to ban on EVs to all work. On the other hand, and to respond to the other commenter, my car lists the temperature limit right on the warning sticker so there shouldn't be any uncertainty.
Nowadays the platform maturity has a play in if you will/won't get issues in the first year. Yes, the companies maturity should also play into that as even if a new platform is made they should have enough experience in making sure the platform is stable before release. I got the first year Niro Hybrid and have been really happy with it. Only a handful of minor issues as well but well within tolerance. Still going strong 5ish years later.
Level 0 regen is genius imo, I use it a few times a month to keep rust off the brakes, this is coming from a climate where they salt the roads until they are white... In Norway the most done thing on EVs is change brakes that are rusted...
I have a Tesla M3P for 4 years and 70k miles and counting. Changed one set of wheels, 12V battery. I changed the air filters once and topped off windshield fluid. And that's it. Best experience ever.
This was a good hour! Thanks for making this video; I think retrospectives on EV ownership are definitely helpful for people on the fence. I REALLY appreciated you talking about your car’s brake lights, because we just got an ID.4, and it’s a behavior you should be aware of while driving (but I forgot, so we’ll be testing that out)
The ID4's rear light comes on when it's slowing down in B mode, past a certain (not very high) deceleration threshold. Since our cars don't have one pedal driving, the behavior at a stop is what you expect, lights on only when the brake is held (or auto held, if you have that)
Not sure what the state of laws is in the US, but from what I got in Germany, you have to have a certain certification to work on EVs, depending on what has to be done. I believe these levels range from a one hour introduction course on EVs to a multi-day training with high voltage devices. Which is not an excuse for not taking EVs imo because if you don't get your staff and shop certified, you might be going out of business within the next 20 years or so.
I'm sure it's a mix of certifications and insurance coverage. The premiums probably don't increase in direct proportion to how many EV users there are - so it might not be "worth it". Also why while I am sure that EV's are the future I think we're more than twenty years away for EVs to overtake ICE vehicles.😅
I have a 2021 ID4, for over a year, I had no issues, then it died twice on me on the freeway, and now every 2021 ID4 is under recall for that, so I'm not sure how to feel about it right now. Edit: I in winter for highways average around 2.9, in summer nearly 3.2, so the more time goes on, the more and more I feel my cars "low" range of 260 compared to these 300+ mile equivalent cars, they work out to actually being the same. Edit2: I would have likey gotten an Ioniq5, but I absolutely needed a car very quickly, and Hyundai didn't sell them in my state at the time. I wish I had the faster charging, but, overall, for the 42k I paid for my ID4, compared to what similar trims of the others cost? Nah, I like my ID4 (other than the recalls)
@@TheBroz so, for me personally, I get in the car, android auto takes over, and that's it. I wish the climate controls were real buttons, and not touch sensitive, but, that's my main issue with the software/interface
Fellow id4 owner here. I’ve only had one issue about 1.5 years ago where the car threw a weird error and wouldn’t move when it was parked and I was trying to turn it on and drive it somewhere. Getting out of the car and back in so it more fully powered off and on seemed to fix it and we’ve had software updates since then and never saw the problem again. Also strong agree that the adaptive touch buttons everywhere are the absolute worst, but since that’s my biggest complaint I can’t be too mad about them.
I bought an id.4 in 2021 and the turn radius is AMAZING!! Downtown Chicago that great turn radius comes in so handy and is now a must have feature for all my future cars.
Reference - Fun stop light info. Back in the 1980s, I road raced a car, meaning car to car competition on a race track. The rules specified the brake lights had to come on when the pedal was pushed. That was for other car's drivers to tell you were slowing, or about to slow down. (So they would not run into you!) What we did to mess with the other drivers minds, was to add a small mercury switch out of a home thermostat, wired in parallel with the brake light switch. When oriented at the correct angle, the slightest deceleration, say, lifting off the throttle, would pop on the brake lights - well before hitting the actual brakes. The original brake light switch still worked, so the car passed technical inspection. The other drivers would watch for the brake lights before hard braking into a corner - usually causing them to brake early, and me to pull away.
I'd love to hear your take on the (to coin a phrase) "20/85 charging rule" - i.e. don't let the car go below 20% or above 85%. I've grown weary of tightly adhering to it and will now happily charge close to or at 100% if I'm going to take it right on the road, or to let it get to 10-15% if it's in the summer.
I feel like it depends on the reserve of the car, how much it matters. Like in a V60 recharge, there’s a 18.8kwh capacity battery, only like 11-12kwh of which is usable. So the car basically already prevents u going max/min charge
My introduction the Ioniq 5 was on the main channel (the DC charging episode) and it really piqued my interest, a little like your first impression, I was "I gotta get one of those". At the time it was the only EV that I would consider buying and everything else seemed technically deficient or so dull that I would want to scream. Not so the Ioniq 5, the styling is quite stunning IMO. Shame about the US style turn signal arrangement.
We've been happy with our Hyundais. As a mechanic, their quality has been on a steady upward climb since '02 or so. They've had engine issues here and there, but they've owned it and taken care of people. We went from a '17 Sonata to a '23 Tucson for the added cargo space (substantial) and have been highly pleased. Best mileage so far was 37 on a 600 mile trip.
I used to own an 02 Sonata and for the most part it was a great little car. It did have some electrical issues but then I also purchased it with more than 100K miles on it (it was my first car). Unfortunately lost that car on V-Day in 2015, there was a terrible blizzard and I got redirected from a steep hill I knew to a steep hill I didn't know. Picked up too much speed (partially my fault, partially due to roads being sheer ice), saw brake lights in front of me and since i didn't want to hit another car and I couldn't slow down with my brakes I decided to try using the curb to slow down. Unfortunately I lost control and took out a fire hydrant (turns out they don't actually spray water when hit, the bolt on top connects to a valve underground).
My 2003 Sonata lasted to 320k miles. Had to get rid of it because of a fender bender. My 2017 Sonata has that Theta II engine problem and is burning about 1 quart every thousand miles. Eventually the engine will probably blow up... but aside from that it's been 100% reliable for 98k miles. Hyundai was forced to offer a lifetime warranty by a class action on the engine, so not very worried.
Matt paint will be why the 2nd shop, and maybe the first too didn't want to repair your paint damage. It's a liability - far harder to match than gloss because the finish texture as sprayed has to be exactly right - it can't be altered by polishing after spraying, as is routine with gloss.
4 weeks into my EV ownership. Been great so far! And I can't even charge from home - instead a public charger around the corner. Lots of those here in the Netherlands so it's not a big deal. Edit: Totally with you on the brake lights thing. My Megane does pop the lights on before lifting your foot completely - though this car doesn't have full true 1 pedal driving, still need to step on it to come to a full stop. There are rules for it, at least here in NL (probably the EU). Based on certain g's of braking iirc. It's not enough though IMO. While manual transmission is common here and braking on the engine is normal and doesn't engage brake lights, regen in EVs tends to be WAY stronger. And of course you don't have brief moments of coasting when you clutch down to shift gears. It's constant, strong deceleration. It's been funny to see people who tailgate back off because they don't expect the slowing. I need to get a dash cam that has a rear camera though >
I really like the way how you try to not being biased and to tell your truth observations and believes. This is seen so much less now in the public - plz keep it!
The newer bolts (I think 2021+) have the brake lights stay on when stationary in one pedal driving mode. There were some regulatory rules that needed to be updated, which is why the 2017-2020 ones shut them off
I think the difference between the HDA and the NAV thing is that the car will adapt to speed limits when in NAV. And I think the grace period for pressing the accelerator pedal when stopped is longer when in NAV. Regarding the "manual" speed control, if you set it, you have quite a lot of play on the accelerator... But if you have to take action, if you press enough on the accelerator, it'll accelerate... Boinging all the freaking time you're over the limit you set.
Easy likely explanation about the refusals - the first two body shops had had gruesome experiences with Hyundais, and the third had not yet. Repair shops - particularly with autos - lose a bunch of money doing some jobs and understandably say, "Never again".
Then why don't they say that to the customer? Giving some BS explanation or no explanation at all doesn't increase my opinion about that shop. And maybe my other car is not a Hyundai 🤷🏼♀️
I just got my Ioniq 5 earlier this year and I'm happy that you made this video to help remind me why I got it! Especially coming from a channel that I respect greatly. I too treat cars as appliances. Just need it to get around. But this is definitely the nicest appliance I've ever owned.
That brake light issue is quite unfortunate. If it's as bad as you describe, not using one-pedal drive would be a deal-breaker for me. I was recently in Japan and got to drive a Nissan Sakura, which prominently displayed on the dashboard when the brake lights were activated. Even more interesting because in Japan a lot of people decelerate by engine braking.
Awesome that it has a heat pump! I used your heat pump and water heater videos to convince my parents to change our boiler to a heat pump (two Mitsubishis actually) and a water heater and the system has worked fantastically even in sub zero (f) temperatures plus should pay itself off in only a few years given the price of the kerosene we used.
In the sixties it was the norm for any new car owner to have to make at least 3 trips to the dealer to fix problems within the first 6 months. That was the norm for me until I got my 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee. No problems in twelve years of ownership, which I found unbelievable at the time. I had the same experience with my 2007 Jeep Commander and my current 2018 Jeep Cherokee. My Cherokee did have a recall for the "programming," of the cruise control, and they "mailed" me a flash drive with instructions on how to update the software, which took a total of 5 minutes of my time and no trip to the dealership, which was an option if I did not feel capable of doing the update myself.
I love that Hyundai includes the codes in the app. My wife's Pallisade was running poorly on a trip last summer. The code indicated that it was likely moisture in the fuel. We topped off the tank with new gas, ran it down to near empty and never had that problem again.
The Emporia EV charger allows amperage limiting as well as schedules which would help to alleviate some of the charging issues you're facing. It's probably the best customizable charger on the market. To top it off it can be coupled with either solar charging or peak shaving schedules which would be right up your alley too if you combine it with the Emporia Vue sensors. Highly recommended!
Based on my experience with the Kona electric, setting the regen to Auto is probably the best for city driving. It will use the radar to detects vehicle in front and apply the appropriate regen braking. Granted it won't stops the car like an i-Pedal, but if you let it, the AEB might/should take over. Haven't try the latter though.
I'd be interested to see what you have to say after the Ioniq 5 has gone through a cold winter, comparing it to the Bolt in regards to battery life vs cold.
I bought a 2000 Pontiac Sunfire GT brand new in the fall of '99 and I drove that thing until mid-2015 and I barely had any issues with it. One time there was some vacuum hose issue that caused the engine to quit at stop lights sometimes and I think that was the most major issue I ever had with it. Only other times I ever had to take it in anywhere was to have normal service done, it was a solid little car.
Small tangent to the one pedal video is the engine break on commercial vehicles. They engage when you let off the fuel pedal and if you arn't loaded they can slow you down similar to moderate brake pedal application but it does not trigger the lights. I am also 100% with you on ambiguous tail lights. I drive a straight truck for work and the lights are ambiguous but making things worse, there is no CHMSIL so my 4 ways are overridden by the brake lights. I plan on rewiring the lights to make them unambiguous.
Hey Alec, I have a 2021 Kona EV and it throws that same error in snow all the time for the radar being blocked. What you can do in the Kona is hold down either the distance change button or the cruise button (I don't remember which for sure) for a few seconds and it disables the Smart Cruise system and lets you use normal cruise control. I don't know if that'll work on the Ioniq 5, but it's worth a try if you haven't already! I was doing the same thing in my car as what I assume you were doing, with the parental controls and speed limiting, but I randomly decided to Google it one day and found that out. Oddly enough, the person on the forum I read had a 2020 Kona and said it doesn't work in the 2021 Kona, but mine's a 21 and it did work, so I figured I'd let you know too in case it helps you out! Also, I've had the same issue with the Android Auto on my Kona....I thought it was my USB cord at first because it would happen whenever I moved my phone around, but I figured out that if I unplug the cable and plug it back in while carefully making sure to keep it perfectly straight, it stops doing that (until I inevitably unplug it or bump the plug again). I wonder if it has something to do with a loose connection in the USB port or something....and they could always be totally separate, unrelated issues, but hey, worth a try! And I have the same gripe about the brake lights not coming on if you're just barely touching the accelerator. I don't personally use one-pedal driving anyway (I like being able to coast neutrally without having to hunt for it with the pedal) but I definitely agree it'd be super unsafe to use in these cars with the way the brake lights are. That's really odd that they did that with level 0 disabling regen completely in the Ioniq 5. My car still primarily uses regen with the brake pedal at level 0 so that's primarily how I drive my car....though I wish it wouldn't always set it back to level 1 every time I start the car (the settings won't let you turn it down to 0). I'm definitely no fan of Tesla, but to be /fair/ to Tesla's use of the term "Autopilot", I feel the need to point out that even airplanes are not fully flying themselves when you're on autopilot. You still need to ACTIVELY monitor and make sure the system is doing what you want, when you want, how you want, and that's true of Teslas as well. However, the public doesn't really know that, and Tesla/Elon should absolutely have been aware of that and chosen a different term. And the term "Full Self-Driving" is so egregiously bad and not true that it should be illegal. Wow, uh....sorry for the wall of text. Just wanted to let you know I agree with your points, and give you some tidbits that might help with some of the gripes you have! Love your content and keep up the great work!
I just bought a 2023 Bolt in February and the ride is indeed softer and more importantly the seats are way more comfortable than the first gen model. Almost splurged on a Ioniq 5 myself but couldn't pass up the value of the Bolt after the new Tax credits.
Funny thing: I am actually a car wash enthusiast, and I’m actually really excited you mentioned them. And yeah they are not safe for certain kinds of paint. You should learn more about them and make a video on them and their quirks, it’s very interesting.
Just a heads up for anyone watching, insurance will "strongly suggest" that you use one of three or so shops that they want you to use because they have special agreements with them, but legally you are allowed to use any shop you would like to make the claim.
You definitively need a 0 regeneration braking mode as in the winter conditions sometimes you need to use the 3rd pedal to regain traction to keep you on the road! Without freewheeling option you'll end up in ditch or crash.
To be fair to the body shops, after the ship fire last year, MANY places revoked insurance coverage if you worked on electric vehicles (especially with accident damage) due to the fire hazard (did you see the damage on that ship before it sank?). Tavarish was told to take the battery out of his P1 “yesterday” due to flood damage because of the fire hazard.
Which is kind of hilarious considering the millions of non-accident ICE car fires every year. I remember when GM was in the news because they were advising people to park Bolt EVs away from structures but somehow nobody reported that Kia had been issuing the EXACT SAME PRECAUTION for years on multiple ICE car recalls. You know, because gas dripping on hot parts and high-resistance shorts in faulty wiring harnesses causing smoldering fires can also cause a parked car to suddenly be on fire. And leaks can happen as a result of thermal stresses from parts *cooling* so fires can start long after a car is off. Superheating of materials used in car interiors makes them hard to put out and retained heat causing re-ignition is also a problem for ICE cars, though a less so than for residual stored energy in large LI batteries. That's one of the reasons that car ferries have had foam extinguishing systems for decades. The insurance companies just see another revenue stream, why cover EV fires under the same policies as ICE fires when you can create and sell a whole additional policy!
@@SpaceBearEngineer But and there is a big but. Electric car fires can't be put out! If there is a fire in a body shop in normal cars the risk of structural damage is less likely than on a ev-fire. Hence the extreme cost in insurance of repairing damaged evs's. Most repair shops that i know of that does normal mechanical work on ev's park the cars outside over night. When you do body work it's usually that you have to park the car inside with body panels removed etc. Hence the no-ev policy. Personally i don't have anything against ev's but if i had an insurance company i would do the same. (The following is just hearsay so i don't know how true it is) I also heard from a source that Tesla actually pays the authorized tesla repair shops insurance premium just to get them to do it.
Interesting video. I wonder if a retrofit for rear window to install a wiper will be somehow available: to me in our grimy winter the lack of rear window wiper is a deal breaker since too much fine sprayed mud makes that window unusable until I wash and wipe it while driving.
LVL 0 Puts the brakes in a mode that will use the Physical brake pads the first 10 applications of the brake peddle being pressed. This allows you to clean the rotors and pads or guarantee that they are used and not blended. After the 10 applications are done then it will blend the regen again at lvl 0.
The light is there to let people who may be peering into the naughty bits of the car know that the HV system is active, since it can turn on without the car being "asked" to be on.
I have a 2015 Passat and the ACC really doesn't like snow on the radar. It also doesn't let me use manual CC when the radar is covered, but I believe it's a safety feature - if you're used to ACC, it's really easy to tail-end the car in front of you.
I had the same exact experience with claiming minor repairs on my car insurance. It really really sucked for two months. Eventually the insurance company stepped in because the courtesy hire car started costing $1000s
Is the body shop maybe required to test and certify the car after any repair, even if they don't go anywhere near the electrics? I can imagine a liability issue if you got into a crash due to a fault that should have been immediately obvious to any mechanic, and maybe someone could argue they had a duty to report any issues to the owner.
Just watched your video and I can't believe I missed it when we were looking for an Ioniq 5 ourselves! Thank you for posting such a thorough review. I just wanted to post a really sneaky gotcha to the Ioniq 5 that I think you may be running into (given you're not driving crazily and you are in the 3mi/kWh range vs the 4mi/kWh). Be super careful if you're using i-Pedal AND eco mode!!! Reading into it iPedal essentially DISABLES eco mode for AWD as it requires all 4 wheels to be enabled for regenerative breaking. Happy Holidays 🎄
It makes complete sense that "Level 0 regen" is "0 regen", I completely agree with this. As regen is an auxiliary braking system, you should be able to turn it off. Yes, people want that. People who want control over the devices they own, want the ability to turn off stuff, in case some unpredictable scenario in the future calls for it.
It sounds like you need to get on board with the Right to Repair movement. Both those service centers seem to experience the same issues as the whole repair industry, from the likes of Apple, Tesla and John Deere. Don't blame the shops, most of them don't choose to not work of EVs because they hate work, but because they get in a lot of logistical, legal and financial trouble if they do.
I've just purchased an Ionic 5, after my trusty old C4 succumbed to the dreaded rust monster. Not taken delivery yet, however, the test drive was great. There was a couple of bits that I didn't figure out, but have since worked out what I was doing wrong. I'm excited to get it and am looking forward to having a great car for the next few years. Just listed to this whole video and it's good to know that it's worth keeping a jump pack in the car, wasn't sure if I would be needed, but now I'm glad that I've got it, as it'll get me out of trouble if the time comes.
Aging Wheels does a 1 year update 2 months early, Technology Connections does one 2 months late. Big brain move to make these average out.
Dis dude got a whole new tire just because he got a nail in one instead of plugging up the old tire LMAO
@@AB0BA_69 Where in the video did he say that the tire was repairable? Not all tire punctures are repairable you know.
@@AB0BA_69I plugged my tire, but guess I did a shitty job cuz I had to top it off every now and then. Then I got another nail in the tire and I just got a new tire 😅😩
@@dangerousmythbuster And indeed, the nail was too close to the sidewall to be patched.
@@dangerousmythbuster Because he didn't bother taking the tire off in order to find the nail and just gave up when he couldn't see it. That's not a sign of someone who'd even know that tires can be patched.
The matte paint is also a big red flag to shops. It's MUCH harder to blend matte paint and a lot of shops just don't have the level of craftsmanship to properly blend paint work.
From what I remember you can’t blend at all you must repaint the entire car
I never understood the appeal of wanting your new car to look like a 20-year-old spraypainted Honda bought off Craigslist for $1000.
@@bwofficial1776 I really like the look, but would rather wrap to get the look instead of having paint that you baby.
@@timothyweed08 That's the smart way to get the look. You can make it look new again when you go to sell it.
@@bwofficial1776 100% with you. The car that he has here seems to look alright but there I live there seems to be a fad where people get their Teslas (which already look like toy cars to me) painted with a matte paint and the craftsmanship is just awful. There is at least 1 green one that looks like a green tax army figurine or something, I just can't imagine spending that much money to drive around something so vomitus.
43:33 fun fact about the max speed setting, if you slam the pedal to the ground really quick, the car will override the max speed setting and let you punch it in case you need to do something evasive.
I get two rules out of this that basically are true for any kind of car from any manufacturer:
- Getting the latest and greatest is cool but maybe wait for two model years if you don't want to deal with the bugs
- Get a simple colour with a shiny clear coat if you want it to be easy to maintain/repair
Also wrapping a car is always a possibility for the matte look.
I agree. This is one of the things keeping me from an EV right now. Other than perhaps one company none of the car makers have made enough EVs to get the bugs out, and I am not a big fan of the CEO of that one company. The EGMP cars look awesome though. Maybe in ~5 years I will consider the KIA EV9 or something similar.
@@DanielBoger GM has been quietly making quite a few EVs in the form of the bolt. We've got one in my household and beside the battery recall (which is hard to pin on GM since it was LG that messed up) It has been a totally normal experience with no bugs to speak of. All of the controls and infotainment and whatever are parts bin parts so it feels like any regular car to use day to day.
Rule 3 is in there too: don't get the pointless big wheels that cost $250 per tire replacement
True story. I got the 17 Niro, which was great. It was the first year they made it. But the 18 is when they added the plug in option so you can also charge it while parked at home.
The radar sensors on the front of a car are usually mmWave sensors which use the 60-108 GHz frequency band. These frequencies are heavily reflected/absorbed by water, so a few mm of snow/ice will be enough to stop them working.
I have some sort of low-speed radar sensor on my 2017 Mazda 3 that'll stop the car automatically if it senses it'll hit something. It to will throw an error when it's sleeting a little bit and even a little snow builds up on the front of the car.
My Leaf's ProPilot did this last winter. I was driving to the store, had ProPilot engaged, and I heard a beep and saw a message on the dash saying it had turned itself off because the front radar was obstructed. Not really a big deal since I had my hand on the wheel anyways (because that's how you're supposed to drive a car with ADAS) and I just drove the last 15 minutes myself. I got out and, sure enough, the radar was packed with snow.
So we can expect a wiper for them eventually 😂
@@GrognarthebarbBring back wiper headlights! What a 90s flex from the luxury car makers.
All newer vehicles suffer from this. They need to include a heating surface to get rid of the snow and ice.
I rented a Kia EV6 for a few days (the sister car to the Ioniq 5) and I thought it was a great car. Only trouble is, ironically, I thought it was too big. I'm honestly not sure what my next car is going to be because I want an EV, but all of the current offerings are very large.
The Chevy bolt ev is definitely the move if you want something smaller
The Ioniq 6 is another that might be closer to what you’re looking for
Why not a Bolt? At the price point, I think it’s an excellent choice with the small downside of slow fast charging.
hyundai are planning Ioniq 6 7 9 and all the other numbers (the 6 has already been shown, i don't know if it's actually a different size). and they'll all be different shapes. I'm really hoping for a hothatch personally.
Ioniq 6 or Tesla model 3 are good options if looking for a sedan
Y'know, this seems like a good place to complain about how manufacturers seem to be desperate to give drivers more reasons to look away from the road. Everything's touch-screen or capacitive; it's getting hard to even find a replacement radio unit that has a volume knob. Being able to feel and activate something with your fingertips is pretty freakin' important!
Very much agree. My car is 16 years old and one of the things I like about it is that I can reach and use all the controls with one hand, without taking my eyes off the road. Everything is within easy reach and has tactile feedback, things click, have detents etc.
Some car magazine put a 20-year-old Volvo with buttons for everything up against newer cars with screens for everything. Not only was it faster to do things in the old Volvo resulting in less time with the eyes off the road, the drivers preferred the physical buttons.
@@bwofficial1776 ive never met anyone that prefers screens over buttons in a car. on a phone, theres a debate, but cars, its just NEVER ok
@@bradhaines3142 My new car has the brake hold and heated seat buttons on the screen. It's annoying having to do 2-4 taps to turn those on or off when other cars from the same carmaker have physical buttons that are perfectly fine. Other than that, I use auto climate control and the steering wheel buttons for the radio but I'd still rather have buttons I can blindly push. I never had to take my eyes off the road to hit the exact preset button in my old car from 2001.
My car has buttons for the heated seat, knobs for the radio, knobs for the climate control, and controls on the wheel for the radio, hands free voice controlled Bluetooth, and cruise control. Why the hell would I want a new one?
The Android Auto glitch may actually be a USB port glitch. It's pretty well-documented that some early HI5s got either a bad batch of ports, or they were poorly installed. If you take it in to the dealer, they can swap it our for you quickly, and that issue should go away.
Echoing this - either the port or the cable cause this a lot, but considering it's documented about the ports that might be it.
Mine did something like this when I had a USB cable with garbage connectors and it went away when I swapped to a different brand.
Repent to Jesus Christ ““I am the good shepherd. The good shepherd lays down his life for the sheep.”
John 10:11 NIV
I
@@repentandbelieveinJesusChrist3 No thanks, I'm good.
I had a similar issue with Android auto in my Toyota and the cables seemingly fixing it.
Great as usual! I own an Ioniq5 for nine months now and love it just as much. A little note on level 0 regen: It is actually recommended to use it once in a while because otherwise corrosion can accumulate on the breaking disks. This might be more relevant in humid climates but it can actually become bad enough for premature (and expensive) disk replacement. Level 0 regen abrades the disks to keep them in good shape. I use it once in about 1...2 months.
As motorcycle owners can confirm, cars get rust on the brake discs very quickly, like within a couple weeks. I can see how habitually light brakers would never clean that rust up.
@@andrewahern3730 I usually try not to go to heavy on the brakes but when it rains I'll usually do a couple semi-hard brakes (not too hard as my insurance doesn't like that) before leaving the parking lot.
Yes, level 0 regen abrades the disks to keep them in good shape but only the first ten times the brake pedal is used after switching to level 0.
From the manual (UK version): Selecting 0 step of the regenerative
braking system, the brake disc cleaning
function is operated around 10 times.
Am I a weirdo for loving the way this car looks? It tickles the same part of my brain as the Delorean did when I was a kid.
Just watched Aging Wheels going over his experience with the Polestar Polestar 2 at the year mark and glad to see a video of how the Ioniq 5 has been treating you at the year mark!
Personally I like the look of the Polestar Polestar 2 but I like the internals of the Ioniq Ioniq Ioniq Ioniq Ioniq 5.
@@ml.2770 The ironic iconic Ioniq 5 shining bright like the polestar Polestar Polestar 2.
Neither were really a "review" of the car and especially not this one. There isn't even a test drive in the video. Honestly, the whole thing sounds like advocacy more than a review.
For example, the lack of shops willing to do work on the car. That's a BIG issue.
You can't just say "oh, it's not the car's fault" or offering paint that cannot stand up to a car wash.
If you aren't from a rust area, you have no clue how important it is to run your car through a car wash during the winter. After a snow storm, you can see thousands of cars covered with a white haze down towards the bottom of the car. That's all road salt. In these areas, cars can rust out in 3 or 4 years if you are not diligent about the washing of the car. The "frame" rails rot. All the panels rot. It rusts out all the brake lines. It damages all the rubber in your suspension. Road salt is absolutely brutal on a car.
@@christo930 Who said these were reviews? I ain't reading all that. I'm happy for u tho. Or sorry that happened.
@@christo930 What you driving, an Austin Allegro?
About the radar and snow, in my experience, yes those 2-3 mm of snow will knock out the front assist radar. It happens on all trucks equipped with it we serve at our shop, it happens with all our service and rental vans, it happens with every car brand I've test driven which is most of the European and Asian ones. Basically if you get wet claddy snow your radar gets blocked.
Thank you. I was thinking of the frequency used by the radar being resonant within the ice crystals and so returning a signal for a large solid object very close to the front of the car.
Happens to me on my Ioniq5 as well. Doesn't take a lot of snow/sleet to block that thing.
I have the same experience with snow building up with VW cars.
My T6.1 Multivan is more effected than our 300HP Ateca Cupra since the T6.1 is a rolling box.
But the manufacturers are working on the issue. Last year on the „electronica“ trade show they showed heating elements that do not effect the radar performance.
Actually last time I had to decide between the T6.1 and the Ioniq5 it was a very close race -
I wonder how much it adds to the cost and energy for the manufacturers who use heated RADAR modules that, to a point, don't accumulate snow. Audi definitely has them, I think Volvo too. My Nissan LEAF has definitely also experienced snow disabling the RADAR. Oddly enough, you can't just clear off the snow/ice and re-enable the system by turning ProPilot on and off. You have to turn off and on the car completely.
@@seabream Pretty sure I’ve seen a pic of a Mercedes with a heated wire pattern on the radar (which is within the giant Merc badge in the front)
I've made it a personal rule to never have a special paint. The reality is that I have enough in my life to worry about, and as amazing matte paint looks I know for a fact I'd be stressing out over it daily. Part of the reason why I like a basic white but... thanks to Honda, I needed my roof repainted because they can't do white without flaking off in sheets.
Yeah, princess-y equipment, like countertops, refrigerators, or cooktops that require special cleaning procedures or products, and may sustain damage from contact with normal solvents, just aren't worth the price of admission, especially if you don't have full control over your space and someone might unknowingly harm a finish or degrade a surface while trying to do you a favour. Same with fancy paint - my car was in a rental fleet before I got it, and they went with a lovely sparkly metallic blue. Unfortunately, that fancy paint means if I need something like a replacement bumper cover, over half the darn cost is going to come from trying to match that stupid paint.
Just have it wraped if you want fancy looking paintjob.
Especially for cars, a wise person one told me, you experience the car from inside.
@@Archgeek0 part of the vin is the paint code, thats all they need to match the paint. also it should be in your owners manual. also there are a lot of parts that come without paint, so you have to have them painted anyway. which color doesnt mean much
@@bradhaines3142 Oh finding the match was no problem. The problem was the metallic blue with little metal flecks in it for the sparkles was both not super easy to get (they had to order some from out of state), and not cheap because it was fancy and dumb, and I think it actually took an extra step to apply, too, just to be annoying.
I like how comprehensive this is. The Ioniq 5 just has that aesthetic that gets peoples eyes and having been presented solutions here to the problems it could have, the ioniq 5 has got my heart.
Did i misunderstand something? He said there were just two small things, and not the car’s fault, but then there were a those charging issues.
all hyundai have LG battery and they degrade very very quickly.
We got an Ioniq 5 late 2022, and unlike you we've had a very cold and snowy winter, snowiest in a while. We did manage 130 miles in ~10-20 F weather. It was our first long trip, and we were played it safe and relied on the heated seats to save charge. Battery went from 100% to 20%. Not gonna lie, it was a scary ride and I prayed that the Electrify America station worked once we got there. But all was well and I'm glad to know how it does in the cold!
Yes, it's a problem when you have to rely on a second rate charging network. Can you tell me why you chose the Hundai over a Tesla?
@@surferdude4487 I wanted an SUV
@@maicydownton7949 I thought that the Model Y is an SUV.
@@surferdude4487for me it's the aesthetics and the fact that the ioniq has buttons and V2L
The “NAV” indicator is there to tell you that the navigation map-based automatic speed change feature is available. It turns green when it is actually slowing you down on a curve. Otherwise, it is white (in my EV6 at least) when it’s available but not active. (If you turn off the navigation based speed change function, the “NAV” indicator never appears, even if you’re on a freeway with HDA2 active.)
The NAV speed change setting is horrid. It is waaaaay too slow in the turns. My former Bolt EUV didn't slow down anymore than a normal human would.
@@aerialbugsmasher Yeah, I had it off for months after a kinda scary slowdown, just recently turned it back on to give it another shot.
@@aerialbugsmasher With that "NAV" 'feature' slowing you down in the curves, would it be like crunching down from a 100kph cruise control down to 60kph in a long sweeping gentle bend which is otherwise perfectly safe and sane to keep doing 100kph in?
I'd hate to buy an EV with navigation-based cruise control that drops 40% of its speed in bends that are perfectly fine to traverse whilst doing the open road national limit.
I live in a part of Rural NSW Australia where the roads between towns is 2-lane blacktop (1 lane each direction) rated for 100kph (which is national highway speed), with a lot of sweeping bends flitting around oddly shaped farmland pastures and over moderately tall hills with flowing slopes, where a 2003 Nissan X-Trail T30 (the T32 is the Nissan Rogue in the US) can sit around 100kph at 3K RPM in 5th on cruise control and just glide along the roads and never drop speed or increase revs to tackle the hills.
@@ElNeroDiablo on one occasion it dropped from the equivalent of 120kph to about 90ish. Very dramatic for what should've been a non-issue. It was on a long sweeping merge lane. Fortunately you can turn this specific function off so it's not a big deal. But it's annoying that it's on by default from the factory took a while to find how to turn it off.
@@aerialbugsmasher JFC, that's moronic to drop about a quarter of your velocity by default because it's a curve or merge lane.
Glad it can be turned off at least, but such a setting is realistically too flipping aggressive.
3 years of free connectivity sounds more like a prelude to extortion than a bonus to me.
You can buy attachments for pressure washers for cleaning the undercarriage
Ooh, Sounds painful 🤣🤣🤣
You absolutely cannot do that.
True, but this is an electric car, so not sure how safe that might be.
@@Cheepchipsable It's not like the cables are open under there. I'd say it's perfectly safe (you do drive over puddles that splash their crap all into there anyway)
The undercarriage-washers aren't exactly "super-high power" anyway, so... eh, I'd do it.
Doing that at home in the winter is probably not a good idea, you’d fill your parking area with ice
Huge learning lesson - always ask the dealer or corporate office of your car manufacturer where they recommend repairing your car. In California the insurance company can't tell you where to take your car for body work.
Even if it's "certified" with the insurance company, it's really not advised to take your car to a place for any work that doesn't specialize in your car make.
Speaking of lane centering and some systems favoring the left or right side of the lane, the new VW ID4 software will let the driver adjust where in the lane to "center" the vehicle. It's probably not the only vehicle to have this feature, and it will probably become more common as time goes on.
Most people I know, myself included, tend to stick left (drivers side) so it's easier to see around other cars.
@@grn1 I don't hug the left line, in particular ion two-way roads, because that's where oncoming traffic lives. And there are a lot of bad drivers out there.
I'd rather have the foot or two of extra clearance from center-line huggers.
I really appreciate you sharing and documenting this. I'm not getting an electric car anytime soon, but I really enjoyed learning about yours and your experience with that model. Thanks again.
+
“I see cars as appliances.”
-Nissan Figaro Owner
Also, you could always buy overseas taillights if you want to run ambers.
@@Sunday_Woodward Sometimes the wiring harness or programming is different. On some cars like VWs you can connect to the system and change the taillight setting from US to EU but that might not be possible on the Hyundai.
@@bwofficial1776
True. I’m running EU taillights on my Fiat, and there is a bunch of additional wiring nonsense dangling behind them.
Just because it is an appliance, this does not mean it has to be milquetoast. Appliances too can be interesting, as evidenced by several previous videos.
Thank you for confirming that detail about BlueLink with the DTC information. I actually got a job at a Hyundai dealership a couple of months ago and no one informed me that BlueLink shows the actual code information instead of just a generic warning (which is what I assumed it did the entire time).
EDIT: I can confirm that Hyundai essentially just sends the dealers what it thinks will sell, the dealer has little to no choice in the matter over what inventory they receive. "Ordering" a car is basically nonexistent, as far as I'm aware.
Interesting about 'no ordering' - most of our dealers promote ordering as all their 'inventory' is pretty much sold before getring off the boat
My EV6 is also about as old as your Ioniq 5 so I'll play along with the video :)
7:00 I honestly think you would've had a much easier time if you had a normal coat of paint. When I got my EV6 my dealer actually talked me out of buying the same matte paint (I got white instead) for this exact reason. No one likes working on it.
8:40 when I took my EV6 in to get a software update (before OTA was ready) I actually set the car to valet mode before handing it over. Kia's version of the same app, "Kia Connect" told me when the car was started, the fastest it drove and how long it was on for all in real-time whilst I sat and waited in the dealership with a cup of tea.
14:20 the boot being open means the car's system stay active. I've had this happen in multiple cars, not just my current EV. In my Kia, it actually comes up on the Dashboard (and it used to do the same in my Optima) that the battery will be discharging because you've not allowed the computer to shut-down. After a couple of updates to my Kia, if you wait for long enough with the car unlocked you'll eventually get the shut-down animation on the central dash screen.
16:45 I charge between 00:30 to 04:30. My Kia did the opposite and it'd quietly abandon the charge schedule and jut start charging immediately! I'd have to stop the charge, unplug the cable, set the schedule and then start again. Mine works fine now, so I'm guessing an OTA was installed one night.
22:55 My Brother-in-law has a Jaguar iPace EV400 and it's been extremely reliable so far (touch wood). My Brother's Tesla Model 3 DM has been the opposite, needing a new radar module, new passenger side window motor and new boot motor within the first, what, year and a half? It's a Shanghai built model, too, which is supposed to be "better" than the California models.
26:00 I'm elated with my EV6, too! (Basically the same car). After having a Mustang and an Optima, I was done with traditional saloon and coupé body styles. I moved out of my parents house with the Optima and that was PAINFUL. Had to use my dad's then Qashqai to haul stuff around (he has a Niro EV now).
28:25 www.carsized.com :)
29:15 it's why I got the AWD EV6. Fast and it being more planted with a wider track means it drives closer to my old Mustang GT than many people probably realise (it helps that the European version I have is 2cm lower than the US version, too).
32:50 I average 3.4mi/kwh. The best I got on the motorway in my EV6 in summer is 3.9mi/kwh, which is, frankly, excellent. I don't have the heat pump so I abuse eco and "driver-only" heat mode in winter (got to -7c/19.4f this winter and I was still able to get around 2.5mi/kwh on the commute to work).
42:10 That's the camera. I've had the same errors pop-up on my EV6 because the camera was blocked. Maybe the weird chrome finish was blinding the camera on your Hyundai and swamping it out with pure white.
45:45 Maybe it's the USB cable. That happened to my phone and it stopped once I got a much higher quality cable.
48:17 This is why I massively prefer the interior of my EV6. The heated seats and wheel have physical buttons (but can also be controlled with voice) and the climate has physical knobs to turn for heat. In your Ioniq 5, press the voice button and say "driver's seat warmer level 1/2/3" and it'll do it for you. Same with "turn on/off the heated steering wheel" for, well, the wheel.
50:00 The air curtain thing feels more true for my EV6, which has a steep rake to the glass. I've never had to clear that off. Even in snow and salt I just hit the window heater and start driving and it all slips off effortlessly. It even helps with the rain.
51:45 I think it's based on the amount of re-gen the car is pulling in. If the "charge" bar is over a certain limit then the break lights will activate. That's what I've noticed with my EV6 when driving at night, even in iPedal. It's weird the Kia does that when the Hyundai doesn't.
55:20 Level 0 is meant as a true "off" to let the car coast like a traditional car would when freewheeling; you need it for very bad weather conditions. I use level 3 on B roads, level 1 on motorways and A roads, and iPedal in traffic (and if it's really bad traffic, I turn on auto steer and radar cruise and it takes all the stress out of stop and go).
57:30 In the rest of the world, the lower line of "pixels" are amber. So instead of the rear lights being four squares tall with break lights two rows tall, the international models have lights three rows tall, breaks one row tall, and then a one row tall amber strip at the bottom. Instead of the centre break row being brighter then the outer light, the entire three rows become the same brightness. The amber strip is on both the hatch and the body.
59:30 yes, lane keep will still be active. Weird you don't get an audible warning, though. On the EV6 it will actually make a "ding" and flash the steering wheel icon. I don't have the side camera and mine still works even when auto steer is off.
1:00:00 when NAV is active it will use sign recognition and the sat nav to keep your car at the correct speed limit. Drive the speed limit, turn on HDA, when Nav turns green it will now maintain safe speeds according to both signage and upcoming corners and traffic.
1:02:00 weirdly enough, this is fixed in my Kia. If you check the instrument binnacle whilst you're indicating to change lanes, the "distance" automatically crushes itself down to its lowest setting temporarily. It then slowly accelerates up to your posted speed, but slower than the car in front so your distance will be reached without you holding up traffic. I set mine to "4", FWIW.
1:03:50 it'll be the "crunching" of the distance. Maybe it's a bug with the i5 and not the EV6?
I'd also buy this car again without second thought.
Thanks for spelling our your experience. Definitely helpful
I'm currently planning to buy an EV6 too. Thanks a lot for your thorough comment and thoughts!
42:57 Hey I work in the service department at a Hyundai dealer. There is a way to turn the smart Cruise control and just use standard cruise control
The driver may choose to switch to use the conventional Cruise Control mode (speed only control function) by following these steps:
1. Push the CRUISE button on the steering wheel to turn the system on. The cruise indicator will illuminate.
2. Push and hold the Vehicle-to-Vehicle Distance button for more than 2 seconds
3. Choose between "Smart Cruise Control" and "Cruise Control".
When the system is canceled using the CRUISE button or the CRUISE button is used after the engine is turned on, the Smart Cruise Control mode will turn on.
Hopefully this helps!!!
For charge scheduling, I'd look into using home automation to turn the charger on/off. My wife's Plug-In hybrid has a Level 1 charger for it, which is more than sufficient for her vehicle. The housing we're in is older and has not enough amperage to run everything at once, so I use a z-wave plug (rated for the same max as the outlet it's in) and HomeAssistant to enable/disable the charger as needed which has solved that particular issue. Similar to what you recommended with the automated breakers in your home electrification video.
I have an OpenEVSE unit, which is admittedly intended for geeks, but is also great. It'll do solar divert and charge timing and stuff out of the box, and it also has an HTTP interface for geeking out.
Cars should just "work" 100% of the time and no software updates. Cars are far too dangerous to be released full of bugs.
@@christo930 You're right, but cars being released with bugs and problems is not new. That's been the case for over 100 years now.
@@tinwhiskerSC But they aren't planned. They are true bugs. There is no sense of "we'll update it later with a software update" in those old cars. AND the bugs were generally nowhere near as bad. When they are, the government makes them recall and repair free of charge. By law they have to keep trying to contact you.
Software sucks. Software has always sucked. They have always released buggy software. But most of the time, buggy software will not kill you and will not kill other people. Sure, there are embedded controllers in medical equipment, but this is to a different standard.
The WORST idea ever is "full self driving" Cars are FAR too dangerous to give them autonomous control.
@@christo930 If the only measure were this vague "danger" you are talking about, then I take it you are against the increase in automation we have seen especially in recent decades in trains? And autopilots in planes must be your number one enemy. That is a lot to take on, so brave.
Visually, your car is exactly the one I'd like. As it turns out, most Subaru Forester owners(2015) will end up in that model. I just like a box on wheels, it makes sense. I'm hopeful they'll add a rear wiper one day. I continue to follow your progress updates.
As other commenters have noted, the issue with the sensors icing over and shutting off the Adaptive Cruise Control is fairly common - it happened to me the January day I bought my Kia Niro PHEV and drove it home from the out-of-state dealer. But just most owner's manuals and driving instructors will tell you that you should not be using cruise control in bad weather conditions, including snow and rain. I realize that sometimes a car can get splattered with gunk even when the roads are not that bad. But in the four years I've had my car, the few times the smart cruise has shutoff due to sensor error were also times when I probably should not have been using it in the first place.
There are under car roller wands you can get and attach to a hose or pressure washer and underbody rinse your car at home. Always an option.
I love hooking up a pressure washer to clean the underside of my car in -20 degrees and then continue to do manual labour for 30 minutes. I then love spending the time to put the equipment away afterwards..
Something to note about the Warmer button on the climate panel. If you press it to bring up the menu, pressing it again will bring you back to the previous screen you were on.
On the adaptive cruise, I'm right there with you. I know that at least some cars shorten the follow distance if you have a signal on, expecting that you'll have changed lanes by the time that you'd be too close. I like that system. Have also driven a Lexus that will ignore the follow distance if you rest your foot on the accelerator petal just a bit. Learned that after that car drove me crazy with it's super long follow distance that made lane changes a nightmare with cruise turned on.
Regarding the break-light behavior: As a new driver once I got rear ended, because the car in front of me stopped for no apparent reason at a green light. In my naivety i didn't keep my foot on the breaks because i expected to accelerate shortly after. Unfortunately the car behind me didn't notice i was still stopped and hit me. Ever since then i purposefully keep my break-lights on, whenever I'm stopped and don't move. This should be a must for any automatic system also!
I drive a manual and I sit at red lights in neutral with my foot off the brake all the time. If a car is coming up behind me I may step on the brake until they stop. It helps that my car is narrow enough that people can see around it to see that traffic isn't moving.
@Mck Idyl i hope your break discs rust.
@Mck Idyl give ‘em a brake!
@@bwofficial1776 Yep. In a manual you can decelerate quite hard to a near stop without touching the brakes. It's never been an issue for me but I do try and be aware of what's behind me. If someone was too close, I'd probably apply some light brakes just for the light.
*I once got rear-ended as a new driver because / As a new driver, I once got rear-ended because
*naivete / naïveté
I just looked up the EU-Regulations on stop lamp illumination while in one-pedal mode. It is dependent on a deceleration value. They may come on at over 0.7 m/s² and must come on at over 1.3 m/s². So Hyundai had to change that for the US market, unless it never hits 1.3 m/s² while in one-pedal.
I went a little ways down a rabbit hole on US regulations on brakes, but couldn't find a specific deceleration threshold or limit for illuminating the brake lights ("stop lamps").
If anyone else can cite the regulation(s), I'd much appreciate it.
I did see one offhand comment at aptera dot that "the" limit is 0.1 G, or 0.98 m/s², but w/o reference.
IMO if you really want matte look on a car, just have it wrapped. Don't mess with those matte paints for all of the above reasons. Adds an extra layer of protection on the actual paint job if you plan to sell it off eventually and fixes are relatively easy - just rewrap that part or the entire car (maybe for a new look).
Yeah, "Can't be taken through a car wash except VERY specific ones" is a dumb way to make a car.
What about rain, road salt and sand, blown leaves and dirt, spray from the tires of other drivers... You know, normal stuff that happens to every car?
Wrap only lasts a few years and taking it off is nasty.
Yes. If it were my car I'd be way too worried about the rust and I would go ahead and do it and when the paint has lots of shiny spots on it then you can just wrap it as you say
@@MonkeyJedi99 the brushes make the paint shiny. It's not about not washing it. It's that low gloss matte paint becomes shiny when buffed.
@@MonkeyJedi99 If you go through a touchless wash with a matte finish it'll be fine. You just don't want anything like brushes gradually polishing that matte paint over time. Better yet, wash it yourself by hand if you can or hire a detailer.
Remember that water heater based timer switch that you made for your electric water heater. You can make the same for your Ioniq. Connect a 120V Kasa smart switch to a 40Amp 240V contactor ( assuming 7.2kw charger) then hook that up to a nema 14-50 outlet. Plug your car charger into the nema outlet and use the smart kasa light switch to throw the contactor. My ID.4 has broken schedule charging so I made one. I'll send info and pics if you want.
This is a much better option anyway. It's really the evse then you don't want providing power at certain hours, rather than the car not taking it a certain hours. Think about it this way, if you were on a road trip do you want it to not charge at electrify America because it's at the wrong time of day? Conversely if you replace your car and plug a different car in at home, do you want it to just start charging because it doesn't have the schedule?
Implementing time of use scheduling, or excess solar consumption, in the car is completely the wrong place for it, it's the EVSE that you want handling that.
Your DIY approach would work perfectly, however if you want a little more nuance, I recommend OpenEVSE which has been great for getting my car charging exclusively from excess solar power.
Maybe you can have a matte finish paint protection film applied to the matte paint finished surfaces. I did my entire car and it's expensive (and I still go through touchless carwashes) but maybe selected areas won't be so bad.
The trouble with jump packs is that they usually tell you to not store them at extreme temperatures, like in a parked car in the summer or winter.
My Jeep had a software issue where CANBUS was staying live even with doors locked and armed. It sat for two days while I was in the hospital for surgery and came out to find it dead to the world. Used the stored key-in-fob to get in and climb to the back to get my jumper cables and someone came to help but 20 minutes later I still couldn’t even get a fob in ignition chime. Had to walk with my battery to oreillys and get a new one (old one tested at ~6v despite the jump attempt) and then shortly after ordered a jump pack off Amazon. Died once more before I got a dealer to flash the computer and fix the CANBUS drain. Used the jump pack and it cranked immediately, so evidently it just won’t accept a vehicle to vehicle jump. But now it gets so hot out I fret the idea of storing it in the vehicle. I don’t need my daily driver going up in flames if the jump pack does spontaneously combust.
Mine has a plain old lead-acid battery in it. No issues with heat. If it's properly charged, it will handle any cold temps you could possibly experience. Heat is not an issue.
51:52 I’m glad you’re making OPD a video topic! I’ve had a 2022 Bolt EUV since December of that year and I’ve always tried to get a feel for how the brake lights behave when I can see them in my rear view at night. I haven’t had any real *safety* concerns regarding its behavior, but I truly think OPD as a whole deserves some standardized behavior.
Granted, we are biased in knowing what OPD is and how it behaves so I really hope you can lean into the “this is cool tech!” for the uninitiated. It’s similar to the amber turn signal topic in principle, but I think it’s a much more unheard of and new technology for the general public. Always worth resurfacing conversation around driving safety.
I had a 2020 Bolt and the behavior was as described (no brake lights when stopped), but I got a 2023 EUV and it does keep the brake lights enabled when fully stopped. So at some point this was changed, I assumed it was on the 2021 refresh but I don't know for sure.
you never say,like and subscribe ever!!thats why i subscribed and like your videos,love your work, thank you.
I've been strongly eyeing the Ioniq 6 (Limited trim w/AWD) for a while now. I know it shares much of the same platform as the Ioniq 5, and I trust your opinion on these things, so I'm really glad you stand by your decision. That pushes me ever so slightly closer to making my own purchase decision. All of the random things you've experienced sound like tiny one-offs that can (theoretically) be improved with software updates, and I'll be sure to avoid the matte finish.
Did ya buy it
@@TheUnreadableUser Not yet. Still wanting to though. But right now my current car runs fine, despite its nearly 20 year age, so can't justify the cost.
@@UrbanScalawag makes sense
I've had issues with body shops in west los angeles/beverly hills, spanning several years. My take on it is that the shops want easy body panel jobs or bumper jobs, and they don't want to handle interior issues/engine/suspension issues, OR these small jobs that are simple paint/replacement parts installs. Whenever I bring them small issues that I'm willing to pay for, they always give BS excuses as to why they "don't do that".
I hate that YT is pushing for shorter videos now and thus making content creators doubt people will watch 1 or 2 hour long videos. Personally I love them and they keep me company while working or calm me down at night. Please know that I, and maybe a bunch more people, will watch them.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
i Will have 3 8h road trips soon.
It depends on the creator
I created a second private playlist for myself called Long Watch Later where I put 2 hour + video's. I also put frequently updated long series in there. I watch my normal Watch Later most of the time. Then when I run out of Watch Later or if I am doing something that requires focus I go to the Long one. For example, there are 24 video's in there currently with roughly 65 hours of watch time total. Several of them are Live Streams people did on TH-cam.
That push for shorter videos does mean that a lot of people may miss the longer ones so even if a majority of people want longer videos (which may not be the case) the actual number of views, and as a result the ROI of a longer video may not be worth it. That said TH-camrs that regularly put out longer content may not be as affected since the algorithms (there's more than one at work) tend to benefit consistency (this also means that posting videos on a schedule is hugely beneficial).
Bodyshops: my hybrid included a warning about bodywork because of possible heat damage to the battery from paint curing heat lamps.
This kind of stuff is precisely I would also not work on EVs if I was in the same scenarios, you put yourself in a situation to be liable for these unknown factors. Manufacturer issue really, they need to do more standardization to ensure confidence in third party maintenance operations.
That was my thought too - they're afraid to do paint work with heated drying, and just applied to ban on EVs to all work. On the other hand, and to respond to the other commenter, my car lists the temperature limit right on the warning sticker so there shouldn't be any uncertainty.
lol. dont fix your ev or it might slpode!
While im at work on a cnc machine, this in depth 1h review is exactly what i need. Thanks
I had the 2022 Ioniq 5 loaner for a while during one of my many service visits and the 2023 suspension has been improved significantly!
Nowadays the platform maturity has a play in if you will/won't get issues in the first year.
Yes, the companies maturity should also play into that as even if a new platform is made they should have enough experience in making sure the platform is stable before release.
I got the first year Niro Hybrid and have been really happy with it. Only a handful of minor issues as well but well within tolerance. Still going strong 5ish years later.
I love my jump pack, give me the same piece of mind in my automatic transmission car as I got in my manual transmission ones.
Level 0 regen is genius imo, I use it a few times a month to keep rust off the brakes, this is coming from a climate where they salt the roads until they are white...
In Norway the most done thing on EVs is change brakes that are rusted...
"I've been talking for over an hour. Should I stop?" No, please don't. I'm still watching!
I have a Tesla M3P for 4 years and 70k miles and counting. Changed one set of wheels, 12V battery. I changed the air filters once and topped off windshield fluid. And that's it. Best experience ever.
This was a good hour! Thanks for making this video; I think retrospectives on EV ownership are definitely helpful for people on the fence.
I REALLY appreciated you talking about your car’s brake lights, because we just got an ID.4, and it’s a behavior you should be aware of while driving (but I forgot, so we’ll be testing that out)
The ID4's rear light comes on when it's slowing down in B mode, past a certain (not very high) deceleration threshold. Since our cars don't have one pedal driving, the behavior at a stop is what you expect, lights on only when the brake is held (or auto held, if you have that)
Not sure what the state of laws is in the US, but from what I got in Germany, you have to have a certain certification to work on EVs, depending on what has to be done. I believe these levels range from a one hour introduction course on EVs to a multi-day training with high voltage devices.
Which is not an excuse for not taking EVs imo because if you don't get your staff and shop certified, you might be going out of business within the next 20 years or so.
I'm sure it's a mix of certifications and insurance coverage. The premiums probably don't increase in direct proportion to how many EV users there are - so it might not be "worth it".
Also why while I am sure that EV's are the future I think we're more than twenty years away for EVs to overtake ICE vehicles.😅
I have a 2021 ID4, for over a year, I had no issues, then it died twice on me on the freeway, and now every 2021 ID4 is under recall for that, so I'm not sure how to feel about it right now.
Edit: I in winter for highways average around 2.9, in summer nearly 3.2, so the more time goes on, the more and more I feel my cars "low" range of 260 compared to these 300+ mile equivalent cars, they work out to actually being the same.
Edit2: I would have likey gotten an Ioniq5, but I absolutely needed a car very quickly, and Hyundai didn't sell them in my state at the time. I wish I had the faster charging, but, overall, for the 42k I paid for my ID4, compared to what similar trims of the others cost? Nah, I like my ID4 (other than the recalls)
How have you found the software? The ID.3 has been a disaster.
@@TheBroz so, for me personally, I get in the car, android auto takes over, and that's it.
I wish the climate controls were real buttons, and not touch sensitive, but, that's my main issue with the software/interface
Fellow id4 owner here. I’ve only had one issue about 1.5 years ago where the car threw a weird error and wouldn’t move when it was parked and I was trying to turn it on and drive it somewhere. Getting out of the car and back in so it more fully powered off and on seemed to fix it and we’ve had software updates since then and never saw the problem again.
Also strong agree that the adaptive touch buttons everywhere are the absolute worst, but since that’s my biggest complaint I can’t be too mad about them.
I bought an id.4 in 2021 and the turn radius is AMAZING!! Downtown Chicago that great turn radius comes in so handy and is now a must have feature for all my future cars.
Reference - Fun stop light info. Back in the 1980s, I road raced a car, meaning car to car competition on a race track. The rules specified the brake lights had to come on when the pedal was pushed. That was for other car's drivers to tell you were slowing, or about to slow down. (So they would not run into you!) What we did to mess with the other drivers minds, was to add a small mercury switch out of a home thermostat, wired in parallel with the brake light switch. When oriented at the correct angle, the slightest deceleration, say, lifting off the throttle, would pop on the brake lights - well before hitting the actual brakes. The original brake light switch still worked, so the car passed technical inspection. The other drivers would watch for the brake lights before hard braking into a corner - usually causing them to brake early, and me to pull away.
I'd love to hear your take on the (to coin a phrase) "20/85 charging rule" - i.e. don't let the car go below 20% or above 85%. I've grown weary of tightly adhering to it and will now happily charge close to or at 100% if I'm going to take it right on the road, or to let it get to 10-15% if it's in the summer.
I feel like it depends on the reserve of the car, how much it matters. Like in a V60 recharge, there’s a 18.8kwh capacity battery, only like 11-12kwh of which is usable. So the car basically already prevents u going max/min charge
Insurance policy’s / liability could prohibit them from touching electric cars without certifications or higher insurance costs.
My introduction the Ioniq 5 was on the main channel (the DC charging episode) and it really piqued my interest, a little like your first impression, I was "I gotta get one of those". At the time it was the only EV that I would consider buying and everything else seemed technically deficient or so dull that I would want to scream. Not so the Ioniq 5, the styling is quite stunning IMO. Shame about the US style turn signal arrangement.
We've been happy with our Hyundais. As a mechanic, their quality has been on a steady upward climb since '02 or so. They've had engine issues here and there, but they've owned it and taken care of people.
We went from a '17 Sonata to a '23 Tucson for the added cargo space (substantial) and have been highly pleased. Best mileage so far was 37 on a 600 mile trip.
I used to own an 02 Sonata and for the most part it was a great little car. It did have some electrical issues but then I also purchased it with more than 100K miles on it (it was my first car). Unfortunately lost that car on V-Day in 2015, there was a terrible blizzard and I got redirected from a steep hill I knew to a steep hill I didn't know. Picked up too much speed (partially my fault, partially due to roads being sheer ice), saw brake lights in front of me and since i didn't want to hit another car and I couldn't slow down with my brakes I decided to try using the curb to slow down. Unfortunately I lost control and took out a fire hydrant (turns out they don't actually spray water when hit, the bolt on top connects to a valve underground).
My 2003 Sonata lasted to 320k miles. Had to get rid of it because of a fender bender.
My 2017 Sonata has that Theta II engine problem and is burning about 1 quart every thousand miles. Eventually the engine will probably blow up... but aside from that it's been 100% reliable for 98k miles. Hyundai was forced to offer a lifetime warranty by a class action on the engine, so not very worried.
Dude, this whole channel is a love letter to appliances. I am sure when you say "I view my car as an appliance" many of us are cheering.
Matt paint will be why the 2nd shop, and maybe the first too didn't want to repair your paint damage. It's a liability - far harder to match than gloss because the finish texture as sprayed has to be exactly right - it can't be altered by polishing after spraying, as is routine with gloss.
Hey Alex! After a Quebec winter my ioniq 5 standard range préféréd had a seasonal average of 2.8mile per kWh.
Thats with 18" winter tires as well.
4 weeks into my EV ownership. Been great so far! And I can't even charge from home - instead a public charger around the corner. Lots of those here in the Netherlands so it's not a big deal.
Edit: Totally with you on the brake lights thing. My Megane does pop the lights on before lifting your foot completely - though this car doesn't have full true 1 pedal driving, still need to step on it to come to a full stop.
There are rules for it, at least here in NL (probably the EU). Based on certain g's of braking iirc. It's not enough though IMO. While manual transmission is common here and braking on the engine is normal and doesn't engage brake lights, regen in EVs tends to be WAY stronger. And of course you don't have brief moments of coasting when you clutch down to shift gears. It's constant, strong deceleration.
It's been funny to see people who tailgate back off because they don't expect the slowing. I need to get a dash cam that has a rear camera though >
I really like the way how you try to not being biased and to tell your truth observations and believes.
This is seen so much less now in the public - plz keep it!
Wow that hour just flew by. Love hearing you, you should do a podcast!
The newer bolts (I think 2021+) have the brake lights stay on when stationary in one pedal driving mode. There were some regulatory rules that needed to be updated, which is why the 2017-2020 ones shut them off
I think the difference between the HDA and the NAV thing is that the car will adapt to speed limits when in NAV. And I think the grace period for pressing the accelerator pedal when stopped is longer when in NAV.
Regarding the "manual" speed control, if you set it, you have quite a lot of play on the accelerator... But if you have to take action, if you press enough on the accelerator, it'll accelerate... Boinging all the freaking time you're over the limit you set.
Easy likely explanation about the refusals - the first two body shops had had gruesome experiences with Hyundais, and the third had not yet. Repair shops - particularly with autos - lose a bunch of money doing some jobs and understandably say, "Never again".
Then why don't they say that to the customer?
Giving some BS explanation or no explanation at all doesn't increase my opinion about that shop. And maybe my other car is not a Hyundai 🤷🏼♀️
@@Jehty_ customers don’t understand. There gonna want a story and every other thing. You just say no and hang up. It’s not worth the shops time.
I just got my Ioniq 5 earlier this year and I'm happy that you made this video to help remind me why I got it! Especially coming from a channel that I respect greatly.
I too treat cars as appliances. Just need it to get around. But this is definitely the nicest appliance I've ever owned.
Just signed for one today, picking it up Monday. Hope we like it as much as you have.
I've been eyeing one of these for a while, thanks for sharing your experience!
That brake light issue is quite unfortunate. If it's as bad as you describe, not using one-pedal drive would be a deal-breaker for me. I was recently in Japan and got to drive a Nissan Sakura, which prominently displayed on the dashboard when the brake lights were activated. Even more interesting because in Japan a lot of people decelerate by engine braking.
Awesome that it has a heat pump! I used your heat pump and water heater videos to convince my parents to change our boiler to a heat pump (two Mitsubishis actually) and a water heater and the system has worked fantastically even in sub zero (f) temperatures plus should pay itself off in only a few years given the price of the kerosene we used.
In the sixties it was the norm for any new car owner to have to make at least 3 trips to the dealer to fix problems within the first 6 months. That was the norm for me until I got my 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee. No problems in twelve years of ownership, which I found unbelievable at the time. I had the same experience with my 2007 Jeep Commander and my current 2018 Jeep Cherokee. My Cherokee did have a recall for the "programming," of the cruise control, and they "mailed" me a flash drive with instructions on how to update the software, which took a total of 5 minutes of my time and no trip to the dealership, which was an option if I did not feel capable of doing the update myself.
Interesting i have always heard Jeep products were the worst engines and quality around your definitely outside of the bell curve glad to hear!
I love that Hyundai includes the codes in the app. My wife's Pallisade was running poorly on a trip last summer. The code indicated that it was likely moisture in the fuel. We topped off the tank with new gas, ran it down to near empty and never had that problem again.
The Emporia EV charger allows amperage limiting as well as schedules which would help to alleviate some of the charging issues you're facing. It's probably the best customizable charger on the market. To top it off it can be coupled with either solar charging or peak shaving schedules which would be right up your alley too if you combine it with the Emporia Vue sensors. Highly recommended!
Based on my experience with the Kona electric, setting the regen to Auto is probably the best for city driving. It will use the radar to detects vehicle in front and apply the appropriate regen braking. Granted it won't stops the car like an i-Pedal, but if you let it, the AEB might/should take over. Haven't try the latter though.
I'd be interested to see what you have to say after the Ioniq 5 has gone through a cold winter, comparing it to the Bolt in regards to battery life vs cold.
I bought a 2000 Pontiac Sunfire GT brand new in the fall of '99 and I drove that thing until mid-2015 and I barely had any issues with it. One time there was some vacuum hose issue that caused the engine to quit at stop lights sometimes and I think that was the most major issue I ever had with it. Only other times I ever had to take it in anywhere was to have normal service done, it was a solid little car.
Small tangent to the one pedal video is the engine break on commercial vehicles. They engage when you let off the fuel pedal and if you arn't loaded they can slow you down similar to moderate brake pedal application but it does not trigger the lights.
I am also 100% with you on ambiguous tail lights. I drive a straight truck for work and the lights are ambiguous but making things worse, there is no CHMSIL so my 4 ways are overridden by the brake lights. I plan on rewiring the lights to make them unambiguous.
Hey Alec, I have a 2021 Kona EV and it throws that same error in snow all the time for the radar being blocked. What you can do in the Kona is hold down either the distance change button or the cruise button (I don't remember which for sure) for a few seconds and it disables the Smart Cruise system and lets you use normal cruise control. I don't know if that'll work on the Ioniq 5, but it's worth a try if you haven't already!
I was doing the same thing in my car as what I assume you were doing, with the parental controls and speed limiting, but I randomly decided to Google it one day and found that out. Oddly enough, the person on the forum I read had a 2020 Kona and said it doesn't work in the 2021 Kona, but mine's a 21 and it did work, so I figured I'd let you know too in case it helps you out!
Also, I've had the same issue with the Android Auto on my Kona....I thought it was my USB cord at first because it would happen whenever I moved my phone around, but I figured out that if I unplug the cable and plug it back in while carefully making sure to keep it perfectly straight, it stops doing that (until I inevitably unplug it or bump the plug again). I wonder if it has something to do with a loose connection in the USB port or something....and they could always be totally separate, unrelated issues, but hey, worth a try!
And I have the same gripe about the brake lights not coming on if you're just barely touching the accelerator. I don't personally use one-pedal driving anyway (I like being able to coast neutrally without having to hunt for it with the pedal) but I definitely agree it'd be super unsafe to use in these cars with the way the brake lights are.
That's really odd that they did that with level 0 disabling regen completely in the Ioniq 5. My car still primarily uses regen with the brake pedal at level 0 so that's primarily how I drive my car....though I wish it wouldn't always set it back to level 1 every time I start the car (the settings won't let you turn it down to 0).
I'm definitely no fan of Tesla, but to be /fair/ to Tesla's use of the term "Autopilot", I feel the need to point out that even airplanes are not fully flying themselves when you're on autopilot. You still need to ACTIVELY monitor and make sure the system is doing what you want, when you want, how you want, and that's true of Teslas as well. However, the public doesn't really know that, and Tesla/Elon should absolutely have been aware of that and chosen a different term. And the term "Full Self-Driving" is so egregiously bad and not true that it should be illegal.
Wow, uh....sorry for the wall of text. Just wanted to let you know I agree with your points, and give you some tidbits that might help with some of the gripes you have! Love your content and keep up the great work!
I just bought a 2023 Bolt in February and the ride is indeed softer and more importantly the seats are way more comfortable than the first gen model. Almost splurged on a Ioniq 5 myself but couldn't pass up the value of the Bolt after the new Tax credits.
My expectation with new cars is that all the problems would be fixed under warranty.
we bought our hondas new (2013 fit & 2018 hrv) and aside from the airbag recalls we haven’t had any issues.
Funny thing: I am actually a car wash enthusiast, and I’m actually really excited you mentioned them. And yeah they are not safe for certain kinds of paint. You should learn more about them and make a video on them and their quirks, it’s very interesting.
Just a heads up for anyone watching, insurance will "strongly suggest" that you use one of three or so shops that they want you to use because they have special agreements with them, but legally you are allowed to use any shop you would like to make the claim.
You definitively need a 0 regeneration braking mode as in the winter conditions sometimes you need to use the 3rd pedal to regain traction to keep you on the road! Without freewheeling option you'll end up in ditch or crash.
It has a snow mode for that.
To be fair to the body shops, after the ship fire last year, MANY places revoked insurance coverage if you worked on electric vehicles (especially with accident damage) due to the fire hazard (did you see the damage on that ship before it sank?). Tavarish was told to take the battery out of his P1 “yesterday” due to flood damage because of the fire hazard.
Which is kind of hilarious considering the millions of non-accident ICE car fires every year. I remember when GM was in the news because they were advising people to park Bolt EVs away from structures but somehow nobody reported that Kia had been issuing the EXACT SAME PRECAUTION for years on multiple ICE car recalls. You know, because gas dripping on hot parts and high-resistance shorts in faulty wiring harnesses causing smoldering fires can also cause a parked car to suddenly be on fire. And leaks can happen as a result of thermal stresses from parts *cooling* so fires can start long after a car is off.
Superheating of materials used in car interiors makes them hard to put out and retained heat causing re-ignition is also a problem for ICE cars, though a less so than for residual stored energy in large LI batteries. That's one of the reasons that car ferries have had foam extinguishing systems for decades.
The insurance companies just see another revenue stream, why cover EV fires under the same policies as ICE fires when you can create and sell a whole additional policy!
@@SpaceBearEngineer But and there is a big but. Electric car fires can't be put out! If there is a fire in a body shop in normal cars the risk of structural damage is less likely than on a ev-fire. Hence the extreme cost in insurance of repairing damaged evs's. Most repair shops that i know of that does normal mechanical work on ev's park the cars outside over night.
When you do body work it's usually that you have to park the car inside with body panels removed etc. Hence the no-ev policy.
Personally i don't have anything against ev's but if i had an insurance company i would do the same.
(The following is just hearsay so i don't know how true it is) I also heard from a source that Tesla actually pays the authorized tesla repair shops insurance premium just to get them to do it.
Interesting video. I wonder if a retrofit for rear window to install a wiper will be somehow available: to me in our grimy winter the lack of rear window wiper is a deal breaker since too much fine sprayed mud makes that window unusable until I wash and wipe it while driving.
LVL 0 Puts the brakes in a mode that will use the Physical brake pads the first 10 applications of the brake peddle being pressed. This allows you to clean the rotors and pads or guarantee that they are used and not blended. After the 10 applications are done then it will blend the regen again at lvl 0.
The light is there to let people who may be peering into the naughty bits of the car know that the HV system is active, since it can turn on without the car being "asked" to be on.
I have a 2015 Passat and the ACC really doesn't like snow on the radar.
It also doesn't let me use manual CC when the radar is covered, but I believe it's a safety feature - if you're used to ACC, it's really easy to tail-end the car in front of you.
I had the same exact experience with claiming minor repairs on my car insurance. It really really sucked for two months.
Eventually the insurance company stepped in because the courtesy hire car started costing $1000s
Is the body shop maybe required to test and certify the car after any repair, even if they don't go anywhere near the electrics? I can imagine a liability issue if you got into a crash due to a fault that should have been immediately obvious to any mechanic, and maybe someone could argue they had a duty to report any issues to the owner.
The number of EV owners of varying brands who report issues with the 12V going flat in a very short space of time is something.
Just watched your video and I can't believe I missed it when we were looking for an Ioniq 5 ourselves! Thank you for posting such a thorough review.
I just wanted to post a really sneaky gotcha to the Ioniq 5 that I think you may be running into (given you're not driving crazily and you are in the 3mi/kWh range vs the 4mi/kWh). Be super careful if you're using i-Pedal AND eco mode!!! Reading into it iPedal essentially DISABLES eco mode for AWD as it requires all 4 wheels to be enabled for regenerative breaking. Happy Holidays 🎄
It makes complete sense that "Level 0 regen" is "0 regen", I completely agree with this. As regen is an auxiliary braking system, you should be able to turn it off. Yes, people want that. People who want control over the devices they own, want the ability to turn off stuff, in case some unpredictable scenario in the future calls for it.
Could not agree more
Didn’t you just publish one of these yesterday with your Polestar? 😂
It sounds like you need to get on board with the Right to Repair movement. Both those service centers seem to experience the same issues as the whole repair industry, from the likes of Apple, Tesla and John Deere. Don't blame the shops, most of them don't choose to not work of EVs because they hate work, but because they get in a lot of logistical, legal and financial trouble if they do.
I've just purchased an Ionic 5, after my trusty old C4 succumbed to the dreaded rust monster. Not taken delivery yet, however, the test drive was great. There was a couple of bits that I didn't figure out, but have since worked out what I was doing wrong. I'm excited to get it and am looking forward to having a great car for the next few years. Just listed to this whole video and it's good to know that it's worth keeping a jump pack in the car, wasn't sure if I would be needed, but now I'm glad that I've got it, as it'll get me out of trouble if the time comes.
I have had an Ioniq 5 RWD in the UK for 2 months now and I love it like my third child.