Verifying it by ohming the relays, so impressive. Sweet video Eric. Thanks for walking us through this one. Great info and a good lesson on verifying a fix.
in the world of boiler plate repair and quick fixes, it's refreshing to see someone actually troubleshoot to component level and verify the fault. I'm assuming you cut your customer a break on labor hours when you're video taping one of these. the benefits of owning your own business. you have quickly become my favorite troubleshooter to watch. keep up the great work. thanks for taking the time to share it all.
Yep this guy just got charged the one hour flat I charge to diag and the rest was just for the purpose of demo on YT. Original diag and confirmation took about 30min.
Great video and explanation, demonstration. As usual. I think the big lesson is verifying the fix, using the ECM's output controls. Having written GM Powertrain diagnostics for 25 years, that is the last step we put in. OEM diagnostics are written for a tech/mechanic that does not have Eric's experience & skills. Therefore, they can be lengthy; however they are developed, tested, and verified on production vehicles - for all known faults that will set a DTC or cause a symptom.
By around 13:40 in the video I was suspecting the PCM had a bad ground switch circuit for the heater and wasn't fully grounding it. I guess I was partially right but didn't think of the fact it might be current limiting it on purpose. Great video! I haven't seen this shown on a video. Thanks for posting it!
Great video Eric O. I wish I had 10% of your knowledge and experience. I just finished playing with an 08 Honda FIT A/C clutch relay with my scope on a rope, and I knew what I was doing ONLY because I have watched all your videos so far.
Great to see constant reference to the circuit diagram. Makes it very easy to understand. Another handy use for the scope-- substitute it for the relay coil. The PCM is very sensitive to overload as with the heater circuit on the O2 sensors.Informative video !!
Great video Eric!I've seen quite a few of those relays go out but normally it's the glow plug relay, but I've never seen one that did that. The ones I've seen bad were getting control voltage and you could hear the relay clicking but no voltage was coming out. I've always swapped the relays around to confirm my diag. I'll have to remember this one!
Awesome video as usual, i work a lot with intake heater circuits and the voltage monitoring circuit with modern Mack engines and your description of how it works is on the money. Keep up the great work and videos. I love the diesel videos seeing how that's all i really work on and that's what i can relate to
I have run into a loose fuse also, however I determined the fuse holder contacts were sprung open slightly allowing fuse to loosen w/ vibration. Nice video!
Kid down the street wanted to learn how to work on cars & so far he's fixed 2 this week and today we work on a 2011 Traverse today with a P0301. My body may be temporarily broken but my mind isn't & this takes patience but is even more rewarding b/c when he fixes it he gets pumped. Paying back what Bob Schuyler did for me @12 yrs old when he taught me how to work on cars!
Great find. I would've liked to see the test at 18:20 done with the new relay box connected exactly as the suspected bad relay box. A Power Probe Hook would have cut this diagnosis time down, the hook would have load tested the power side and shown you voltage and current all in one test. A scenario I've seen far too often is 12volt jumper wire touches the bare metal of extra long non insulated test light while you are triggering the control wire from Scan tool. Eric still gets a thumbs up for the find. (NOTICE THAT I STARTED BY SAYING GREAT FIND AND NOT GREAT DIAGNOSIS).
Nice video Eric. Just a reflection on the test with your test light, on the control wire in the middle of the video. Many relays draw less than 200mA on the control, witch means that you will activate that relay with your test light. just a good to know so you dont unintended activate a relay. Cheers.
Yep that is true. The majority of the time you can do bypass testing with just your test light and sometimes even an LED test light so you need to know your current draw to be safe :)
We had one on weekends back in the Connecticut town I grew up in. Neighborhood got richer, rich people whined and complained so our old air raid siren was silenced forever. 🥺
Hallo Eric , the things that caut my eye was that when u graund the relay whit the test light the test light did not became deem , thank you from isreal , great content
That's fantastic troubleshooting. I was following along about 90% but had no knowledge of the limiting factor the ECM needed. I guess that's where experience comes in. Back to scannerdanner channel for more theory. :) But thanks Eric, Mike and I will both be keeping an eye on this one!
An excellent example of logical, thoughtful diagnostic procedure 👍👍👍. Well done sir! I’m on a personal crusade in regard to heater delete, and below have copied a rant I have posted elsewhere. One question that remains is when does the heater operate? I’m guessing it is independent of glow plugs. Just watched the rest of the video and you said “below 73F”, but for how long? Also, you should consider one of those “over the engine, reclining creepers.” 😀 ********** As an engineer myself, I must question mods or deletes on an engine which override the original intentions and motivations of fellow engineers who undoubtedly spent considerable time and effort designing various aspects of our Duramax engines. As we all know, economics of every aspect of vehicle design are an important part of decision making and unless a part is mandated by emissions regulations, I doubt anything is ever added without considerable research into the pros and cons. While I concede the heater coil no doubt causes some degree of intake restriction and turbulence, I’m confident those downsides were on the con side of the ledger, but were overridden by the benefits of better warmup characteristics during cold weather starts. Frankly, I don’t know at what ambient the heater is energized, but would be willing to bet there are benefits to warmer intake air, which may be transparent to the operator, but nonetheless contribute to better engine operating characteristics during that phase of operation. I also suspect that, short of dyno testing, there is little noticeable performance difference following removal of the heater, and even then, improvement is only at the margins. If anyone has numbers to refute my observations, I’d luv to see them. Delete on, homey and thanks for this otherwise well produced video. 👍
It's important to remember these trucks are sold to the masses. So they have to perform for the masses. So an intake heater is probably not needed for a farmer in Costa Rica for example. But that system/modules/parts are failing throwing codes. It makes perfect sense to just eliminate it.
I honestly stare at the screen during these deep diag videos like he's speaking Martian because I don't understand a lick of it. Still neat to see him fix things even if I have NO idea what he's saying.
+South Main Auto Repair Eric, i disagree. Look at how much you have taught the viewers already. Most viewers, myself included thought safety was 5th or 6th on the priority list. Little did we know that safety should be 3rd. lol.....In all seriousness though, you have probably forgotten more than most people know about auto repair. You would make a great teacher.
Test light master does it again! That was beautiful! Just one question: what was the amp rating for the fuse protecting the control side circuit of that shorted relay? When you grounded the relay with the jumper wire to ground and drew 12A, I'm surprised that little fuse didn't go "pop" lol
That is a great question as always! I will answer the question with a question if I may. Because I did not put an amp clamp on this I do not know the answer but lets say the anti spike resistor in the relay on the control wire was shorted giving us our low resistance but the coil was good. Could this have skewed the results. By that I mean could the ohm meter have shown 0.8ohms but if I amp clamped it could have gotten a reading that showed other wise? What do you think?
Hey I'm just starting into the mechanics world and iv been watching a lot of tool box reviews and noticed you dont have one, I was wondering if you could do a walk through of your box just to inform all of us what you have to complete your jobs and what is nice to have around in the box to keep work flowing. Viewing from MD, thanks
Great Video. I've never seen a small relay do that, perhaps moisture or something got in there and did something to the insulation on the relay coil? Just thinking. Thanks Eric.
I wonder if the relays have snubber diodes built in. If one shorted, that could make the readings you saw. I know the drawing doesn't show one, but they may have relays upgraded after the drawing was made. Check the known good in both polarities for a diode.
ECMs have come a long way from the one in my 88 S10. It doesn't have much in the way of current limiting on its drivers. I've replaced one or two transistors in those older units. At least they are generic parts and easily fixed!
Both of the relays were bad... 40 ohms on the glow plug coil and 1 ohm on the intake heater coil. Obviously, diesel vibration takes it's toll on those relays, eventually. Good catch Eric!
That relay was kind of like a sci-fi situation. Did you get a chance to autopsy the old relay and find the contacts worn or dirty? What was causing the resistance issue?
Wow! That's another "how the heck can you know this info, anyway", moments!!! Best part tho, now, we all know, thanks to you!! By the way, how did you know it?? You've indicated that you don't usually work on diesels, did you have that look on your face when it was brought in, or did you already have previous experience with a system like that?? I guess it could also be that you looked up info about the code, studied some diagrams, and maybe even looked at some TH-cam vids, to figure this one out!! Whatever the case, when I grow up, I wanna be just like you!!
The two separate wires going back to the PCM is kind of strange, but I noticed they're on two separate connectors. I wonder if there might be separate logic modules inside the PCM, or maybe the PCM is doing some sort of voltage differential measurement.
Was wondering that my self simply because the bypass test still worked with out getting really hot! I would think it the coil was shorted we would have seen some fire on the bypass test with the jumper to ground.
Fuse having bad contact in the fuse box might have caused supply to the relay coil to flicker. That would cause the diode to carry current more often than designed. That could then heat it until it fails.
Spike suppressor diodes are most often next to the driver as that allows clamping the spikes generated by the wire between the driver and the relay coil.
SirDeanosity - As an Electrical Engineer with over 50 years experience I can tell you that spark suppression is applied at the source. of the EMF, at the relay or motor, etc. Applying suppression at the current source would cause significant radiation between the source and load wiring.
That was my practice until 18" of wire between the driver and coil caused SCR latchup in the driver. Although I had a diode across the relay coil I had to add one from the coil drive wire to the relay supply voltage. The relay was in a fixture and was not relocatable.
Hey that intake heater controller module near the fire wall on the gmc I'm trying to figure out where the ground white goes too i hooked all three wires right but I out have a black wire left which is the 4th black wire I forgot where it bolts too it's an 2003 gmc 6.6 diesel 2500 I did the injectors
Nice demo Eric, was that serpentine belt manufactured on St Patrick's Day ? Nice to see how the circuits function with the control modules. Seems to me like many "computer" vehicles come in for problems that a non-computer vehicle would never come in for meaning, seems like the newer vintage has problems of their own which generate more maintenance vs. the old. Computer run vehicles are a dream if they work correctly however, if there's a failure while on the road, there's likely no roadside fix going to take place so it's flatbed time to a garage that is local to the breakdown location which is totally risky from my experience. Sounded like the lunch siren went off and Eric continued working as usual. Reminds me of the film, My Cousin Vinny, the local factory steam whistle at 5 AM, "to tell everyone its time to get up".
Im just wondering I have asked all over and no one can give me a answer ive got a 2002 duramax with the 5 speed Allison and when I got to allerate it seems like it hesitates and blows a haze of black smoke I don't know if its the motor or the transmission. The transmission doesn't smell burn really there is a little but the color is still red. I would almost drescribe it as a sluggish take off. It does not smoke anytime else other than alleration.
I can't help but wonder if the two problems were related. Maybe someone else was troubleshooting the circuit and didn't get the fuse back in all the way.
What I'm missing here is what exactly is causing the excessive current draw inside of the plastic box. Where is the current going? Are the windings of the relay shorted? I understand the current limiters built into the PCM I just don't understand what's causing them to go into action. It can't be downstream of the box since it's replacement solved the problem so what's inside of the box to cause the current draw. Please explain.
the control side of the relay is shorted. Less than 1ohm. Whether it is a shorted coil or shorted anti-spiking device (diode) I do not know. Does that help?
Even if it was true that they come pregapped, the application to different vehicles would require that you verify the correct gap. Then there's the "how were they handled before you got them" issue. How many folks have handled the package, and then how many of those have dropped it, possibly changing the factory gap. Long story short, always verify the gap from the vehicle spec, with the actual gap of the plugs!
Oops, I posed this question on the wrong video. I meant to put it on the transmission video where you diagnosed the bad sensor. In that one you used it to monitor the sensor's wave form, something I would have guessed you would have used the Autel or the Verus for, but maybe all of them do that so just grab the smallest since it's easier to hold?
Verifying it by ohming the relays, so impressive. Sweet video Eric. Thanks for walking us through this one. Great info and a good lesson on verifying a fix.
This video is so old omg, this saved me today January 20th 2024 !!!! Great videos will continue to help people !!!
in the world of boiler plate repair and quick fixes, it's refreshing to see someone actually troubleshoot to component level and verify the fault. I'm assuming you cut your customer a break on labor hours when you're video taping one of these. the benefits of owning your own business. you have quickly become my favorite troubleshooter to watch. keep up the great work. thanks for taking the time to share it all.
Yep this guy just got charged the one hour flat I charge to diag and the rest was just for the purpose of demo on YT. Original diag and confirmation took about 30min.
Great video and explanation, demonstration. As usual.
I think the big lesson is verifying the fix, using the ECM's output controls.
Having written GM Powertrain diagnostics for 25 years, that is the last step we put in.
OEM diagnostics are written for a tech/mechanic that does not have Eric's experience & skills. Therefore, they can be lengthy; however they are developed, tested, and verified on production vehicles - for all known faults that will set a DTC or cause a symptom.
By around 13:40 in the video I was suspecting the PCM had a bad ground switch circuit for the heater and wasn't fully grounding it. I guess I was partially right but didn't think of the fact it might be current limiting it on purpose. Great video! I haven't seen this shown on a video. Thanks for posting it!
Great video Eric O. I wish I had 10% of your knowledge and experience. I just finished playing with an 08 Honda FIT A/C clutch relay with my scope on a rope, and I knew what I was doing ONLY because I have watched all your videos so far.
Great to see constant reference to the circuit diagram. Makes it very easy to understand. Another handy use for the scope-- substitute it for the relay coil. The PCM is very sensitive to overload as with the heater circuit on the O2 sensors.Informative video !!
Great video. First demo of current limiting in action I've seen. ECMs are pretty cool little computers!
Fascinating study and demonstration of operation. I love this kind of diagnostic thinking!
Watched all of your SMA videos! You're awesome, Eric O! keep em coming! That was great diagnosis :) I definitely learned something!
climbed up on that truck 60 times for the video - thanks Mr O
The Nova was super nice. A labor of love considering the money involved. Great body work. Fun day in the shop. Thanks for the video.
Thanks Eric. something else to watch for now on my truck!
Great video Eric!I've seen quite a few of those relays go out but normally it's the glow plug relay, but I've never seen one that did that. The ones I've seen bad were getting control voltage and you could hear the relay clicking but no voltage was coming out. I've always swapped the relays around to confirm my diag. I'll have to remember this one!
Awesome video as usual, i work a lot with intake heater circuits and the voltage monitoring circuit with modern Mack engines and your description of how it works is on the money. Keep up the great work and videos. I love the diesel videos seeing how that's all i really work on and that's what i can relate to
That one would have thrown me for a loop for sure. Good call E.O.!
I have run into a loose fuse also, however I determined the fuse holder contacts were sprung open slightly allowing fuse to loosen w/ vibration. Nice video!
Just when I was going to bed... Thanks Eric. :(
Good vid. Luv the lunchtime reminder alarm @13:00.
Amazing how many small towns still do that, but it's a daily test of the tornado siren at the same time around here without scaring anybody.
Multiple failures definitely can bite you...awesome catch and when you're done & it ships you know you nailed it. Great video & thanks!
Yep you have to take the time to verify the repair!
Kid down the street wanted to learn how to work on cars & so far he's fixed 2 this week and today we work on a 2011 Traverse today with a P0301. My body may be temporarily broken but my mind isn't & this takes patience but is even more rewarding b/c when he fixes it he gets pumped. Paying back what Bob Schuyler did for me @12 yrs old when he taught me how to work on cars!
Hayward's Automotive Oh man that is super cool :)
That is so cool! I think when someone has that much interest in it the enthusiasm is so much fun to see.
I look forward to the day when Hannah starts her own auto repair youtube channel: "North Main Auto". :)
Yet South Main Auto is not located in the south. Hmm... Wonder where the name came from?
+MTTech it came from the name of the street his business is on.
+Paul Carroll ah that makes sense.
Excellent video Eric!!! The best I've seen so far!!!
Great find. I would've liked to see the test at 18:20 done with the new relay box connected exactly as the suspected bad relay box. A Power Probe Hook would have cut this diagnosis time down, the hook would have load tested the power side and shown you voltage and current all in one test. A scenario I've seen far too often is 12volt jumper wire touches the bare metal of extra long non insulated test light while you are triggering the control wire from Scan tool. Eric still gets a thumbs up for the find. (NOTICE THAT I STARTED BY SAYING GREAT FIND AND NOT GREAT DIAGNOSIS).
WOW!!! The Doctor is in. Great info thanks Eric.
Nice video Eric. Just a reflection on the test with your test light, on the control wire in the middle of the video. Many relays draw less than 200mA on the control, witch means that you will activate that relay with your test light. just a good to know so you dont unintended activate a relay. Cheers.
Yep that is true. The majority of the time you can do bypass testing with just your test light and sometimes even an LED test light so you need to know your current draw to be safe :)
What a lunch horn! Thanks for your time
I always look forward to seeing your videos. Thank you so much.
Thanks!
Love the afternoon blast!
We had one on weekends back in the Connecticut town I grew up in. Neighborhood got richer, rich people whined and complained so our old air raid siren was silenced forever. 🥺
Ford, Dodge and Chevy are providing Eric with a nice living, fixing shoddy engineering. 😎
as well as Toyota,Subaru and Honda lol
+gerard mcauliffe Its the salt thats making Eric the big bucks. 👍
Yes more salt please!
I think Eric fix more gm,and Chrysler than ford, and the ford vehicles I watch fix are minor issue, preventive maintenance
Hallo Eric , the things that caut my eye was that when u graund the relay whit the test light the test light did not became deem , thank you from isreal , great content
Pretty cool vid, always learning. Man I would have been slid on that for sure. 👍👍
That's fantastic troubleshooting. I was following along about 90% but had no knowledge of the limiting factor the ECM needed. I guess that's where experience comes in. Back to scannerdanner channel for more theory. :) But thanks Eric, Mike and I will both be keeping an eye on this one!
Great video!! That current-limiting is one crazy variable sometimes! Thanks for sharing!
An excellent example of logical, thoughtful diagnostic procedure 👍👍👍. Well done sir!
I’m on a personal crusade in regard to heater delete, and below have copied a rant I have posted elsewhere. One question that remains is when does the heater operate? I’m guessing it is independent of glow plugs. Just watched the rest of the video and you said “below 73F”, but for how long?
Also, you should consider one of those “over the engine, reclining creepers.” 😀
**********
As an engineer myself, I must question mods or deletes on an engine which override the original intentions and motivations of fellow engineers who undoubtedly spent considerable time and effort designing various aspects of our Duramax engines. As we all know, economics of every aspect of vehicle design are an important part of decision making and unless a part is mandated by emissions regulations, I doubt anything is ever added without considerable research into the pros and cons. While I concede the heater coil no doubt causes some degree of intake restriction and turbulence, I’m confident those downsides were on the con side of the ledger, but were overridden by the benefits of better warmup characteristics during cold weather starts. Frankly, I don’t know at what ambient the heater is energized, but would be willing to bet there are benefits to warmer intake air, which may be transparent to the operator, but nonetheless contribute to better engine operating characteristics during that phase of operation.
I also suspect that, short of dyno testing, there is little noticeable performance difference following removal of the heater, and even then, improvement is only at the margins.
If anyone has numbers to refute my observations, I’d luv to see them.
Delete on, homey and thanks for this otherwise well produced video. 👍
It's important to remember these trucks are sold to the masses. So they have to perform for the masses. So an intake heater is probably not needed for a farmer in Costa Rica for example. But that system/modules/parts are failing throwing codes. It makes perfect sense to just eliminate it.
Man I wish I understood electrical half as much as you do
I honestly stare at the screen during these deep diag videos like he's speaking Martian because I don't understand a lick of it. Still neat to see him fix things even if I have NO idea what he's saying.
Excellent, oh that resistance. Thanks Eric...
Shorted coil in one of the relays, nice catch
Thanks Eric! Such a great walk thru. I Hope your exit strategy involves teaching.
Nah I never feel like I know enough to tech.
+South Main Auto Repair Eric, i disagree. Look at how much you have taught the viewers already. Most viewers, myself included thought safety was 5th or 6th on the priority list. Little did we know that safety should be 3rd. lol.....In all seriousness though, you have probably forgotten more than most people know about auto repair. You would make a great teacher.
This was a fantastic video on tracking down a problem!
Great video Eric. I'm having a similar problem. This will help me diagnose my issue. Thanks
Test light master does it again! That was beautiful! Just one question: what was the amp rating for the fuse protecting the control side circuit of that shorted relay? When you grounded the relay with the jumper wire to ground and drew 12A, I'm surprised that little fuse didn't go "pop" lol
That is a great question as always! I will answer the question with a question if I may. Because I did not put an amp clamp on this I do not know the answer but lets say the anti spike resistor in the relay on the control wire was shorted giving us our low resistance but the coil was good. Could this have skewed the results. By that I mean could the ohm meter have shown 0.8ohms but if I amp clamped it could have gotten a reading that showed other wise? What do you think?
Oh man getting slid by the ohm meter...rookie mistake ;) Amp clamp would have told the whole story...did you save the old relay ???
I knew you would ask that. I may have to go dumpster diving. I will look, I mean have Josh look in the morning haha.
I think the ohm meter was not telling the whole story...
Will p0540 or p0380 cause and transmission problems?
Awesome catch. Where is the Honda no compression video you promised us?
Hey I'm just starting into the mechanics world and iv been watching a lot of tool box reviews and noticed you dont have one, I was wondering if you could do a walk through of your box just to inform all of us what you have to complete your jobs and what is nice to have around in the box to keep work flowing. Viewing from MD, thanks
Hey there's hanna! Hi hanna!
OEM parts only way to go great vid mate
Yes sir! Thanks man!
Great Video. I've never seen a small relay do that, perhaps moisture or something got in there and did something to the insulation on the relay coil? Just thinking.
Thanks Eric.
Great informative video Dr.O
Great video! Something that could have been easily misdiagnosed!
Great video. Greetings from Norway :-)
Great video very informative. Thank you sir !
I wonder if the relays have snubber diodes built in. If one shorted, that could make the readings you saw. I know the drawing doesn't show one, but they may have relays upgraded after the drawing was made. Check the known good in both polarities for a diode.
good work eric!
Thanks!
ECMs have come a long way from the one in my 88 S10. It doesn't have much in the way of current limiting on its drivers. I've replaced one or two transistors in those older units. At least they are generic parts and easily fixed!
Thats one funky green auxiliary belt, does it glow in the dark Mr Eric O...
That's gates heavy duty belt
Both of the relays were bad... 40 ohms on the glow plug coil and 1 ohm on the intake heater coil. Obviously, diesel vibration takes it's toll on those relays, eventually. Good catch Eric!
That relay was kind of like a sci-fi situation. Did you get a chance to autopsy the old relay and find the contacts worn or dirty? What was causing the resistance issue?
Is working with electrical components more difficult to diagnose without probes?
Wow! That's another "how the heck can you know this info, anyway", moments!!! Best part tho, now, we all know, thanks to you!! By the way, how did you know it?? You've indicated that you don't usually work on diesels, did you have that look on your face when it was brought in, or did you already have previous experience with a system like that?? I guess it could also be that you looked up info about the code, studied some diagrams, and maybe even looked at some TH-cam vids, to figure this one out!! Whatever the case, when I grow up, I wanna be just like you!!
That truck has a green serpentine belt!
New subscriber here, great video. My 02 Duramax is now throwing the same exact code. What's the OEM part number for that relay box? Thanks!
The two separate wires going back to the PCM is kind of strange, but I noticed they're on two separate connectors. I wonder if there might be separate logic modules inside the PCM, or maybe the PCM is doing some sort of voltage differential measurement.
Great job Eric And a cool vid! How about a walk around of the new toy?
Can you share the link on where to get that octo scanner or whatever you use their
Good catch
I have same issue on volvo vnl truck. Are able share that schematic? Thanks for the video.
Man that was some trying conditions with the interruptions!!
So I’m getting a air intake heater code/plug code. Should I just replace the relays ? I’m thinking that’s the issue.
That was really interesting.
always handy to have an ohms law calculator App
I have the same issue, replaced relay box, not fixed. So is the wire bad? What's the fix? I'm missing something. Please help?
The relay may have a bad (shorted) spike suppressor diode on the coil. Either internal or external to the relay.
Was wondering that my self simply because the bypass test still worked with out getting really hot! I would think it the coil was shorted we would have seen some fire on the bypass test with the jumper to ground.
Fuse having bad contact in the fuse box might have caused supply to the relay coil to flicker. That would cause the diode to carry current more often than designed. That could then heat it until it fails.
Spike suppressor diodes are most often next to the driver as that allows clamping the spikes generated by the wire between the driver and the relay coil.
SirDeanosity - As an Electrical Engineer with over 50 years experience I can tell you that spark suppression is applied at the source. of the EMF, at the relay or motor, etc. Applying suppression at the current source would cause significant radiation between the source and load wiring.
That was my practice until 18" of wire between the driver and coil caused SCR latchup in the driver. Although I had a diode across the relay coil I had to add one from the coil drive wire to the relay supply voltage. The relay was in a fixture and was not relocatable.
do you have to solder the wire ? or did it have a connector?
Hey that intake heater controller module near the fire wall on the gmc I'm trying to figure out where the ground white goes too i hooked all three wires right but I out have a black wire left which is the 4th black wire I forgot where it bolts too it's an 2003 gmc 6.6 diesel 2500 I did the injectors
Nice demo Eric, was that serpentine belt manufactured on St Patrick's Day ? Nice to see how the circuits function with the control modules. Seems to me like many "computer" vehicles come in for problems that a non-computer vehicle would never come in for meaning, seems like the newer vintage has problems of their own which generate more maintenance vs. the old. Computer run vehicles are a dream if they work correctly however, if there's a failure while on the road, there's likely no roadside fix going to take place so it's flatbed time to a garage that is local to the breakdown location which is totally risky from my experience. Sounded like the lunch siren went off and Eric continued working as usual. Reminds me of the film, My Cousin Vinny, the local factory steam whistle at 5 AM, "to tell everyone its time to get up".
Just a gates green belt.. little stronger
Hey man just wandering what do you use for all of your electrical diagrams and competent diagrams?
I've never seen a green surp belt before
Is organic
Good video, when did you start working on jets, that other car sounded like crap.
Eric O. what do you mean or what does it mean when you say CONTROL SIDE and why is it the CONTROL SIDE.
Do you think th autel scanner is good? What do you think
Im just wondering I have asked all over and no one can give me a answer ive got a 2002 duramax with the 5 speed Allison and when I got to allerate it seems like it hesitates and blows a haze of black smoke I don't know if its the motor or the transmission. The transmission doesn't smell burn really there is a little but the color is still red. I would almost drescribe it as a sluggish take off. It does not smoke anytime else other than alleration.
Also there are no codes relating to the engine except the air heater and an over spoiled turbo but other than that nothing out of the ordinary
I can't help but wonder if the two problems were related. Maybe someone else was troubleshooting the circuit and didn't get the fuse back in all the way.
I doubt it because as far as I know I am the only one who does work for this company
So what was the actual fix? Get 2 new relays inside the block?
SMA time
What I'm missing here is what exactly is causing the excessive current draw inside of the plastic box. Where is the current going? Are the windings of the relay shorted? I understand the current limiters built into the PCM I just don't understand what's causing them to go into action. It can't be downstream of the box since it's replacement solved the problem so what's inside of the box to cause the current draw. Please explain.
the control side of the relay is shorted. Less than 1ohm. Whether it is a shorted coil or shorted anti-spiking device (diode) I do not know. Does that help?
Most likely the diode. OK I'm good.
SATAMAN Schmidt I thought that too
Thanks, that help me alot
What is the model of Autel are you using? Like to have the same documents.
what type of scaner are you using on this video
U are the man
Do you have any SMA shirts out. I didn't see any thing on Amazon store. I'm up here I Calgary ab and would possibly like to order a shirt
Hi Eric, just a quick question if you don't mind, on a Diesel engine do they have EGR flow at idle? Thanks Jonathan
I don't know for sure but I doubt it...
Thanks for your help Eric
Amazing
Just a question for anyone. Do Acdelco oem plugs come pre gapped?
always check the gap before installing
Even if it was true that they come pregapped, the application to different vehicles would require that you verify the correct gap. Then there's the "how were they handled before you got them" issue. How many folks have handled the package, and then how many of those have dropped it, possibly changing the factory gap. Long story short, always verify the gap from the vehicle spec, with the actual gap of the plugs!
They should but I always check them anyway, anything could happen in transit. Take a little time to know.
Thanks fellas
an autopsy on the relay might be interesting
Btw, why did you use the Vantage instead of the Verus? Just curious.
It is my go to tool for a multimeter. Small fast and effective.
Oops, I posed this question on the wrong video. I meant to put it on the transmission video where you diagnosed the bad sensor. In that one you used it to monitor the sensor's wave form, something I would have guessed you would have used the Autel or the Verus for, but maybe all of them do that so just grab the smallest since it's easier to hold?
Gerald Hinson Yep and I get the same results
What the hell was that @ 12:59 a Nuclear alert ?? lol
What was the load, noisy car that pulled in that you had to diagnose? Sounded pretty bad, could barely hear you talk over it.
Nice!! Tricky... :-)
When will we see the repair automatic transmission?
Never, I do not rebuild auto trans in house
Too bad, it would be the perfect accompaniment. A would increase the traffic on YT and I'd enjoyed it.
More of a specialty shop item
OK, I understand, easier jobs are interesting.
What's the deal with the carquest brake clean. I work for napa. Where you get the REAL "good stuff". Ha just jabbin ya Doc. Keep up the good work.
Come on, the Napa brake clean you can practically drink ! hahah