Sterling Alternator to Battery Charger Installation
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2025
- Join me on a widebeam, installing a Sterling A2B.
Nice easy install, in a clean engine bay, which is always nice!
Link to Sterling Power
sterling-power...
www.buymeacoff...
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Great Stuff Martin
Soo much more room in a wide beam engine bay!!!
Great vid. 👍🏻
Not always Mark, but certainly on this one.
Hi Martin was looking at charging from my second alternator to my domestic batteries and was scratching my head of how the best way to do it with the idea of staying with victron throughout , now seen this bit of kit and it seems this is the way to go, many thanks got to say learnt loads so far. Richard.
Glad it helped Richard, I've installed a few of these with no issues at all. Just avoid the remote kit as it overcomplicates things. Its the whole reason I do these, as I'm doing this stuff daily, its ideal to share.
I LOVE Sterling however if the rest of your system is Victron, look at the ORION.
@@krispykush313 the Orions are good, but max out at 40A.
@@narrowboatelectrician Thanks, I didn't know that. I don't think Victron makes a 24V DC-DC charger, either?
@@krispykush313 they do, 24v 15a
Sterling's new 2022 B2B's look very interesting
Yeah, I installed with a set of Sterling Lithium batteries (5 of) using the starter battery as a buffer to protect the alternator. Customer is well happy with that set up.
Hello again Marty, another great VLOG, very informative, I noticed that used a wire cutter to trim your wire ties, this leaves a razor edge on the remaining tie, as my "old school Mechanic advised me" I always used a small pair of locking pliers, to twist off the remaining length of tie, it leaves a small nub of plastic, that doesn't slice your hand/ arm open if you reach into the compartment again, don't mean to be a pain in the bum, just trying to pass on other options, safety first.
You can get propper cutters that leave the sharp edge sunk into the locking block 👍
i don't have one so i tend to bleed a lot 🤣
Hey Jake, yeah they can be a bit "prickly". In tight auto engine bays I can see that as a real pain. There is also a trade off in access and time. The best way is to get the cutters 90 degrees to the tie and cut as close as possible, worse case is an angled cut. You are not a pain mate, its a very fair comment, but because there are so many things in an engine bay that are trying to remove flesh and gallons of the red stuff, a cable tie doesn't worry me so much. Great comment.
I'll have a look for those, other stuff gets me 10x more than cable ties though.
@@narrowboatelectrician eBay, cable tie gun 👍
Around a tenna but they can make access an issue ?
I've used one but didn't buy one cos i found it only to be useful half the time 🤔
Any electronic clippers with a flush back will do.
That looks a nice bit of kit 😎
Lots of cooling 👍
Not fitted an AtoB before only BtoBs
Enjoyed this vid 👍
As allways 😁👍
Thanks for that, I wanted to show how pretty straight forward it is. It is far superior to alternator only charging.
@@narrowboatelectrician totally, its an mppt for alternators 🤔
Great post - The issue with Lithium batteries is they will suck every amp an alternator can produce and alternators of an automotive origin will soon overheat and fail - so in addition to providing the correct charging profile they cap the max current and monitor the temperature of the alternator and battery - I use a Renogy version DC to DC charger on my RV - they do a 60, 40 & 20a version - I suspect the Stirling is a more robust unit - mine has been working flawless this past 3 years
Hi Trev. This wasn’t for a lithium set up. For those I use. B2B with the starter as a buffer. The lithium’s I use have built in BMS. You’re right about killing alternators, they will if connected directly. Either due to current draw or BMS shutting off and blowing the regulator. Thanks for great comment.
@@narrowboatelectricianI should have watched your previous videos - I built my own battery using them 280ah Lifepo4 cells and a 120a BMs that talks to my phone - its works brilliant - if I was doing it again I'd be tempted to use an all on one like a Growatt and a 24v or even 48v system
Great video, how did you managed to excite the alternator I have the same but cannot get the alternator to charge?
To manually get alternator to start you can connect 12v momentarily onto the D+ terminal. If that's working then there is a section in the manual about how to wire permanently through the A2B.
Actually it’s B+ that needs the 12v kick. Some alternators need to have 12v on B+ to fire up. When you put the A2B in circuit you lose that.
I had the same issue and found the instructions difficult to understand. I ran a wire from the starter switch and got it working but as far as wiring to the unit that is not made obvious (at least to me) in the manual.
Hi Marty great vlog and very informative. Keith
Cheers Keith.
Hi new subscriber here.
Could, should, would you introduce a battery charger to an off grid solar setup, so as the generator is on to run the Lawnmower you could take the chance to charge the batteries too, (12v lead acid leisure batteries), especially on the days the sun does not shine.
If so, would you disconnect the charge controller?
I'd be wanting maximum amps like 6 or 12amps going into the batteries during the 15 mins of grass cutting.
nice work 😊
Thank you! Cheers!
I really like the idea of using fuse holders as a connection point.
Thats good. I am looking for solid midi fuse links for future installations, but a much bigger fuse than necessary is pretty much the same thing. Thanks for commenting.
Hi. I have one of these on my nb with the remote control and in 3 years have never seen more that 26 amps from it. From a 100a alternator to 6 batteries?
Ive worked with these for a while and see big numbers. It would depend on the state of charge of the batteries in the first place?
Why wasn't the starter battery connected into the charger as well?
Hi Mark, it had its own separate alternator, so no advantage in doing that.
😎😊👍
Cheers dude