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Make your own ultralight Alpha Direct hoodie
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ส.ค. 2024
- In this sewalong tutorial, I show the step-by-step construction of an Alpha Raglan Hoodie. Polartec Alpha Direct is unlike any other fleece fabric on the market with very high breathability and warmth-to-weight advantages. The sewing pattern is available on my website and its an easy pattern to get started in making your own technical apparel.
Binding Stretchy Cuffs and Waist • Binding cuffs in makin...
📐 Alpha Raglan Hoodie sewing pattern learnmyog.com/...
✂ Main fabric is Polartec Alpha Direct from discoveryfabri...
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🎬 Chapters
0:00 Lets go
1:50 Facings
3:30 Cinch Buttonholes
5:25 Body
7:23 Long Seams
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🌎 LearnMYOG.com
📷 @LearnMYOG / learnmyog
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🧰 Sewing Equipment
* Juki DLN-5410 industrial machine
* Brother 1034d serger
* Janome Sears Kenmore 19233 computerized domestic machine
* Organ regular point needles (industrial) and SCHMETZ Microtex (domestic)
* Gütermann MARA 100, MARA 70, TERA 40 thread
* 45mm rotary cutter with self-healing cutting mat
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🎵 Track: Retro - Waynes Jones
TH-cam Audio Library
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I think this will be hugely popular - great job and thanks for making it! 👍🖤
Hope so! This one is fun and a pretty straightforward sewing project that can be made with a regular zig zig or serger. Hoping to see some beginners and experienced makers have a go at it!
I have only just started with doing my own manufacturing in frustration with gear pricing where I live, thank you for giving such informational tutorials for me to learn from.
Just found your website and I’m inspired! Thanks for the videos! Just ordered the hoodie and camp pants.
Right on! Thanks for giving the patterns a shot. You won't be disappointed in your makes.
Awesome tutorial! The quality of your content has gotten so much better :D
Thanks! Glad the quality is improving and noticed. 😊
Found my next project. Amazing. Thanks!
Glad you like and hope to see you make one!
Making one now! So far the instructions are great - all the mistakes are my own.
To that end - any tips on using a seam ripper on this fabric other than using contrasting thread? I frayed the heck out of some of the edges and it took me a LOOOONG time. I was even using a lamp with a magnifying glass.
Tips for seam ripping Alpha Direct? Not really other than avoid mistakes by practicing on more forgivable future first. It’s a nightmare to seam rip especially if serging.
I made the hoodie which I am thankful for. But you've edited the balaclava sewing to be too fast for this intermediate sewer and your hands are in the way so it's hard to see what you are doing. Also, it would have been easier to follow along if you had used a contrasting color for the hood lining. But thanks still for posting. Just some feedback for next time.
Thanks for the feedback. Glad you were able to make one.
How do you do one with a quarter zip?
Wow! Thank you. It's just what I was looking for.
Awesome hope you make one
Thanks!
excellent ! thx
👍
This looks great and the instructions are nice and clear! Which model of Alpha Direct fabric did you use? You mention that the fabric you used is quite stretchy. (What % stretch worked well?)
Thanks. The orange is Alpha Direct 60 and charcoal is AD120. I have more info is on the product page on my site and in the patterns material list for specific part numbers, of which there are only four for each weight. AD90 is probably the most popular and best balance of warmth to weight.
@@LearnMYOG thanks!
This might be a dumb question but is there any reason this couldn’t be used to make a sun hoodie (simply by changing the fabric)?
It works great. Use a stretchy sun protective knit and you’re good to go.
I ordered a Senchi Wren that the sleeve are 6” too long and the length is 6” too long. Chest fits fine. Same material as video. Can you make a video showing how to remove the stitching from the binding, cutting the material shorter and show using zigzag and straight stitch to replace the binding?
Not really worth a video. You’d just seam rip the binding and shorten the length. Then either hem or sew the binding back on. May be best to buy one that fits from get go and sell that one.
Great stuff! Shopping for a serger...
Serger is a good second machine especially if wanting to work with knits 👍 Hope you find a good deal
Is this doable without a serger using say an overlock stitch? Looks great!
Yes without a serger, a stretch stitch and overlock or overcast to finish the edges is the way to go. No matter what, sewing stretchy knits with a drop feed machine takes practice and patience. A used low cost serger will be far faster and easier to get flat even seams.
@@LearnMYOG thanks, appreciate the insight!
I did draft version with leftover materials from this pattern. I'm usually on the slimmer side of large and fuller side of medium. I used the larger version of large on the pattern. I was suprised that the draft version was too small for me. cut itself was good, but snug from every inch and short from sleeves.
Is it supposed to be that way? I'd prefer it to be not loose, but also not form fitting from all over.
Did you measure your sample and compare to the finished garment size to eliminate user error? If you picked your size based on the instructions and recommendations it should not be form fitting.
@@LearnMYOG we did measure me and landed on the bigger side of Large.
Love the videos and info! What type of thread do you have loaded in your surge machine? I’d like to give this project a try
Thanks. These days mostly just using maxi lock in the serger.
Excited to buy your pattern and make these and christmas gifts! Do you still like your brother 1034d serger(assuming that's what that is)? Looking for our first serger and the 1034dx also came up. Not sure which one has the better stitch quality and durability. Thanks again for this project!
Best $50 used machine I could have imagined. Wish I had bought sooner. But it’s a bottom barrel serger, gets the job done and I never really have issues with it. I see no reason to replace it and have always been happy enough with the results.
awesome thanks! going to pick up one on fb marketplace tonight. Bought your pattern and just waiting for fabric to ship. Looking forward to it! @@LearnMYOG
Will this pattern allow you to make a sweater if you left the hood off?
What cheaper fabric do you suggest to make a prototype before getting into the Alpha? I’m assuming something with similar stretch characteristics, but I’m not experienced to know what. Thanks!
I recommend cheap fleece in the pattern instructions
Hello sir, love your work, have you tried the wool blend by any chance ? any toughts ?
I have a sample of it. Haven’t used it. It’s very similar as normal Alpha Direct. I’ve seen many builds with it and people are happy with it.
Thank you so much. I'm a huge guy like 6'8 so buying this is not an option. Where can I buy this fabric? 🤔
Rip stop by the Roll, they also sell this template and pattern.
super cool! sadly like many people, I don't have a serger... do you think this is still worth sewing? will it be too hard with just a zig-zag stitch?
Straight stitch for construction and zigzag or overcast for raw edges is fine. Will take you longer but practice makes perfect.
@@LearnMYOG thanks, I'm definitely gonna buy the pattern :) Another stupid question but I've never sewn clothes, does the straight stitch limit the "stretch" of the fabric compared to the sewing done with the serger?
Yes. Use a long zig zag where you want to maintain stretch or prestretch the fabric ahead of the needle with straight stitch.
@@LearnMYOG so could I just use the zig zag or an overcast stitch for all the work without a straight stitch ?
Hi, I'm about to buy your pattern, but I am wondering how many yards of Polartec this requires for a large.
Two yards IIRC but it’s stated in the pattern with a proposed cut layout for typical color blocking
Cool, thanks. I'll buy it all right now.
Hey Tim!
A question absolutely not related to this video :
On your tutorial for making a roll top stuff stack the end of pt 6) of the "Roll top collar" section is truncated...
"Ensure the length of webbing from folded end-to-end is slightly longer than ."
Longer than WHAT???
I'm all anxious because of the missing word 😬😅
Regenerate your dimensions. It’s a dynamic field and the length is based on your input.
@@LearnMYOG ah ah, dumb me! I'll try again 😅👍
Thank you!
anyone aware of a UK or europe seller of the fabric
Hey, I'm making my own hoodie with the balaclava hood with 60gsm alpha but I have issue on sewing the buttonhole for the cinch cord. On a test piece the fabric gets stuck in the feed dogs and rips. Is there some technique on succesfully sewing the buttonhole?
Really?! I haven’t had that issue with Alpha direct. For lighter weight fabrics, a tip that may help here is to put scotch tape or paper between feed dog and the wrong side of fabric. Increase your foot pressure if you can and also loosen the thread tension. Last, be sure to hold the free tails of thread under a little tension, pulled towards you out the front of the button hole attachment.
@@LearnMYOG Thanks! The lower thread tension + paper seemed to be the key to the success! Now onwards with the build :)
what oz/sqyd or gsm kind of fabric did you use? And thanks for the video:)
Polartec Alpha Direct is the fabric name. See the pattern page on my website for more info. Link in video description.
I want to try this. What's that machine called that you're using to cut the fabric?
I cut with a rotary blade and self healing cutting matte. As the fabric is a knit, I serged the garment with a machine called a serger.
@@LearnMYOG thanks, subscribed
Can you direct me to a site where I can buy one?
How and where can I get one hoodie in Germany or Europe