I bought a dyna glo at auction for 50 bucks. Wouldn’t stay lit after I replaced thermal coupler. Was stumped and didn’t want to waste more money on a older unit. Bypassed the coupler and works perfect now. Thx for the video
After 7 or 8 videos on the issue...THE BEST EXPLANATION on how this works and how to approach fixing it. Well done! My thermocouple is also not working. I will try cleaning it in those internals as you showed. If it doesnt work, I will disable it.
Thanks!! I have a Martin CHS10 and found the the thermocouple was not working. Removed it like you said and now at least works. Just gonna buy another thermocouple to replace it. Thanks.
THANK YOU SOOO MUCH!! I went through all of these videos telling you to do different things, and NOTHING worked! My pilot light was burning like a candle, and wouldn't reach the little stick thingy that it has to keep hot to keep the heater running. And as I was watching your tutorial , I seen where you showed the little hole where it mixes the gas with air, and I checked that hole and it was clogged up with a bunch of gunk! Cleaned it out and it works PERFECT!! I cannot thank you enough, this little heater is how my kids and I stay warm! :D
@@LightLivingEst80I would suggest plastic in all windows. And hanging thick blankets over doors and entryways if you have the extra ones you want to make sure that they go clear down to the floor and have about four inches of overlap at the bottom or roll over whatever you call it. Also wearing sweats Under pants and thick wool socks on feet. Then body, sweater and then your shirt and then coat over top. All this combined makes one nice and toasty.
Thanks for showing how to actually bypass the thermocouple. Thanks to inflation, I can't afford a new heater. Now at least I can get my old one working again.
FINALLY! A breakdown of an older model w/ no complex innards. My issue is with pilot flame not reaching the thermocouple tip -- couple not adequately heating up?, heater thinking "nope" and turning off. 15 min runtime max. Have cleaned as far as i can w/out total disassembly. Now i know my next steps. THANK YOU!
OMG FINALLY I HAVE HEAT! Second way that oil gets in there, using a cheap propane hose meant for low pressure after regulator operation but sold and used for high pressure tank to regular hose. The propane acts as a solvent and the pressure up and down leach the plasticizer out of the rubber and the hose gets stiff and you get that oil blocking EVERYTHING!!! I've had to clean out that oil a half dozen times in the span of a year. Next one I'm getting will come from Mr Heater directly because that one they sell is meant for tank side pressure. ^_^ I removed the plunger on the solenoid that's filled with sticky oil at this point and I can finally have heat for more than 5 minutes at a time now. THANKS
When all else fails read the manufacturers instructions! in other words, if you're not using tiny bottles, you must use a fuel filter to help mitigate the oil that large tanks get inside them because commercial propane filling motor pumps do not have Teflon rings like they use in the little tiny Coleman bottles.
Excellent vid, anybody trying to keep one of these things going, ought to be able to decide on thermocouple, or they don’t have enough expertise, and Are going to have problems sooner or later. Screw the hate mail. Whole range of fixit vids, lots of different Theories, yours among the best. well done!
I couldn't start mine - problem was the bottle wasn't screwing on far enough (even when I turned it tight). The solution was simple.. remove the black rubber washer where the bottle connects to the Mr Buddy. The new set of 4 1lb tanks that I bought from Amazon - had threads that didnt go deep enough. The blue pilot is now TWICE as big as before. There does appear to be more rubber than just the black washer.. so the fit is still tight. Use at YOUR discretion.
i have a Mr Heater ventless wall mount style. It is roughly 5 months old and we use it to heat up our home gym, just yesterday the pilot light stop staying lit, when you hold the pilot button down to light, the pilot is a nice big blue flame but once you release the button, the pilot will stay lit for like 2 to 5 seconds and go out. Do you think i have a faulty thermocouple? I will try to blow everything out with compressed air tonight for the heck of it.
Most typically it will be a bad thermocouple. But there could be several different problems. Your lines could be clogged like mine. There could also be something wrong with the valve that gets held open. That is basically an electric magnet. Mine had a ton of oil in it. You'll have to go through everything and test stuff. I already showed you had to break it down and how everything's supposed to be. I'm sure you can figure out the problem.
Could you possibly show how to disassemble the darn thing? I got the top handle off and that's as far I can get. I have a new thermocouple to install, but can't into the case to access it. I would of course give everything a cleaning and inspection. Getting the cabinet apart is my issue, and I can find nothing online anywhere or in the manual. Thanks!
Unfortunately I never made a video of it but my new model had some little clips that had to be pried back I think they were located on the sides or on the top and the bottom I can't remember but they were perpendicular to each other I hope that helps but frankly I know it probably doesn't
Hey Jeff. I posted this same comment from another account. I don’t know if ytb allowed it. Sorry for the double post. No rush in responding. Regarding 7:10-7:30 of your video, I’m thinking about removing the plunger on my patio heater gas valve (like you were demonstrating). Mainly because the pilot gas valve doesn’t stay lit, the thermocouple itself is fine. I modified the thing and converted it to natural gas and I think that has something to do with it. It’s not that the pilot gas valve is dirty or clogged and I’m not going to try to clean it vacuum it etc (it’s that the orifice is too small and it’s too hard to access the pilot jet to drill it out). The only thing I have a concern with is if I removed the plunger, will the pilot gas continue to discharge (although it’s not being burned)? Remember the pilot light constantly goes out due to lack of pressure/flammability because of me converting it to ng. If the pilot valve discharges gas that’s not being burned there could be a buildup and possibly a blowback (not from the main burner, I’ll constantly be monitoring it, but from the small amount of pilot gas). The only workaround I can think of here is to get a 1/4 compression cap and close off the pilot valve (at least I think that’s the size of it). What do you think on all this? Can you offer any feedback? Thanks!
Ok kept watching and you pretty much answered it. But now the question is how do I close off the pilot valve? 1/4 compression cap? Or maybe kink the tubing and put some sort of protection over the broken part? And then check for leaks. You have any ideas?
@@bro8898 first of all sorry it took me so long to get back to you I don't mind if you didn't respond to as regularly. But to answer your question it's kind of difficult. Because every unit is slightly different. And frankly I don't remember exactly what it looks like unless I was in there taking a look at it again. It's hard to memorize every heater I've ever taken apart. But I'll try to answer you as broadly as I can. Natural gas only runs on I believe 325 PSI. But I believe propane its upward the 15 to 20. So yes you're right you'll have to drill out the workers hole to get enough fuel to do the job. In addition to that I know that the way they burn is slightly different. When converting from propane to natural gas you need to change the air intake as well. But I can't remember which way you change it I think when natural gas you have a block more of it off. At least that's what I did when I converted from propane to Natural Gas on my fire pit in the backyard. As far as a pilot I'm not worried about it on mine because as the heater is burning arrows Rising quickly. What causes a negative pressure underneath the heater and therefore sucks in fresh air right past the pilot. I believe you will be pulling in so much fresh air it will be diluted to the point where combustion is almost impossible. If you look at the specs and how many parts per million natural gas needs to be to ignite its way up there. Long story short if you smell it you have to worry about it. If you can't smell it it's frankly not much of an issue. However if you're using this unit in a closed play such as a car or room it could potentially be a problem if you go to sleep with it. Personally I don't worry about worst-case scenarios. I have a feeling before it got to that level somebody would notice the odor in the room. Opening the door for 5 minutes would fix it. But if you're really dead set on blocking off the gas then yes grabbing a pair of channel locks and kinking the hose or squeezing it should be reasonable to block it off. But if you want to fully block off for sure you remove it and go down to your local Ace Hardware store if you're in California and I'll help you find a plug. Well I think that's all the questions you asked. You probably already have it fixed and finished by now. So this response may not be for you but for somebody else. In addition to that rather than capping off the thermocouple it's always better to replace it. This video is intended for information to help you understand how it works. It's always better to put it back 2 standards. With that said you're not my kid so.... have fun.
Hey Jeff. Thank you so getting back with me and sorry for the late response back haha. Just to update. I have really enjoyed the heater and had a lot of fun with it. I was able to cap off the pilot valve with I think an 1/8 npt cap which doesn’t match up with the compression threads of the valve output. Just doped it really good and sprayed it with soap bubbles and it has no leaks. I will say this though. You MUST diligently watch the flame of the burner to make sure it’s on at all times while using a modified heater like this. I have other heaters around too and discharging unburnt has into a space even outdoors with other heaters present could be a disaster. That’s why the thermocouple is so important. So that takes some of the fun out of it. Long story short I’m basically using the valve as a control valve for how much heat I want. I probably could’ve rigged up a gas cock directly to the burner and had the same results I have now. Still though this shows the importance of not messing with the safeguards built into the valves unless you have a really intimate knowledge of how they work. Even then it may not be a good idea if you have to watch it all the time and constantly worry about it. Whether I continue to use it or not you taught me a lot! Thanks for all the wonderful information!
These are some great questions and you did a great job on explaining everything that you were having the problem with. Unfortunately I don't know the equipment you're working with. So I'm not sure I can be much assistance. However I do know that when you change from propane to Natural Gas you have to change the orifice size. And also you have to change the air intake propane needs more are natural gas does not need as much the reason for that is because propane runs at a lot higher pressure than Natural Gas I hope this point you in the right direction my friend
Hello Jeff thank for your interesting vidéo. It really help me. But If have a question. Is it normal that on my Big Buddy heater that the thermocouple become red hot when I turn it on. I lift the thermocouple a little because it seems like the flame did not hit it enaught. I would like to have your advice on this. Thank's. My name is Denis.
A lot of times they do get red hot. It depends on where the manufacturer installs them. But they don't need to get red hot the function. They just need to get hot enough to make enough of electricity to power the electric magnet. The further they're away from the flame the longer you'll have to hold the pilot light on before it will take over. So there needs to be a balance because it will burn out a lot faster if they get red hot. There's no perfect solution for this. Just find a balance
I may have a bad thermocouple, what should the voltage (vdc?) read while heating it? I can get my heater to run but will shut off randomly after a minute or so.
With the biggest hammer you need. Lol. It was built by a man that can be taken apart by a man just be creative my friend you'll figure it out and remember the freaking thing is already broken you can't Broach it more. If you can't fix it it's already going in the trash.
On the new ones there's some little clips that have to be pried back. They're not designed to be put on and off. Be gentle when you pry them off I used a long screwdriver. I hope that helps
thank you , I have a gas heater and the light won't stay lit though I replaced the thermocouple and magnetic bobene but nothing chang , please help me, thanks.
Oh man it sounds like you're having a a bad time. I wish I could help but I'm not really too sure what you're working on. But frankly even if I did I don't have experience on a lot of heaters only a few of them. Please watch both videos and see if you can find the answer in their. Good luck my friend I wish I could do more
Good video but It is NEVER okay to bypass safeties for any reason other then trouble shooting. Especially with life safety things such as standing pilot equipment. But some good info for sure
Well that's a personal choice. Some people choose to use rubbers and some people don't. LOL I bet you're the kind of person who uses them! That is if you even have a girl. Girls like very manly men LOL
Don't disable your thermo couple safety unless you are into self explosions. Propane is heavier than air and will accumulate unlike natural gas that will float away. In my area a Farther blew up his whole family when he tried to light a propane water heater that did not shut off. If the thermocouple quits working replace it.
He is wrong about the oil from the 1lb cans. oil build up comes from using certain hoses without a fuel filter for 5-20lb tanks but the oil comes from the hose.
Thank you for telling me that my friend but I don't know how you get oil out of a hose. Even if you melt it under Fire you barely see any oil. The oil that I'm talking about actually comes from your propane. It is mixed in with your propane for a couple reasons the first reason is to give it that funky smell so you can tell if you have a leak. The second reason is to lubricate all your seals. The big problem happens is nobody shakes their propane up and mixes the oil and then it settles to the bottom and then when you use the rest of the bottle it comes out and they're too concentrated mix if I'm wrong please explain a little bit more detail how a hose can produce oil I've never seen that in my career
I would like to say how crappy it is that these Mr Buddy heaters expect everyone to become gas appliance experts. I've had trouble with two of their heaters. These things are designed to be disposable, it's so frustrating. And no one will service these things because they're just stupid little space heaters
It's actually not Mr heaters fault. It's the propane companies. They put too heavy of oil in the propane to make it stink. But the required to do that. So ultimately it's the laws clogging these things up. But I'm glad you can smell the propane when it leaks. Also it helps if you shake the tank vigorously before you use it mix the oil up really well nobody ever talks about that
Well read through the comments you will find that most people are very happy with the video. What people choose to do with it is their prerogative and problem
Why would you tell people to take a.thermocouple off? This is insane. When someone passes out fishing or camping and dies from breathing straight propane pissed up sleeping I'ma room full of propane. Jesus guy not a great idea buy a ten dollar thermocouple so you don't need to remember Killin the whole family camping lol yikes
Thank you for your advice. People are smarter than you give them credit. It's not necessary to always think the worst about people. I believe in people like you and me and the people watching this video. I don't believe they'll be stupid. As for you you can believe whatever you would like and I'll support your thinking. Please support mine
Ripple that crap out and hardwire it. You might have to light it with a match but just make sure you light the match first and put it to the mantle before you turn the gas on
I'm not too sure what your question is most of the time the thermocouple and tip switches are hooked up in series. Which means if either of them can you shut the pilot off
barely used mine and wont stay lit. It seems a thermocoupler - the issue is, if its so safe that it does not work, what is the point? for 80 bucks and limited run times it should just work. Poor design.
I bought a dyna glo at auction for 50 bucks. Wouldn’t stay lit after I replaced thermal coupler. Was stumped and didn’t want to waste more money on a older unit. Bypassed the coupler and works perfect now. Thx for the video
After 7 or 8 videos on the issue...THE BEST EXPLANATION on how this works and how to approach fixing it. Well done!
My thermocouple is also not working. I will try cleaning it in those internals as you showed. If it doesnt work, I will disable it.
Thanks!! I have a Martin CHS10 and found the the thermocouple was not working. Removed it like you said and now at least works. Just gonna buy another thermocouple to replace it. Thanks.
THANK YOU SOOO MUCH!! I went through all of these videos telling you to do different things, and NOTHING worked! My pilot light was burning like a candle, and wouldn't reach the little stick thingy that it has to keep hot to keep the heater running. And as I was watching your tutorial , I seen where you showed the little hole where it mixes the gas with air, and I checked that hole and it was clogged up with a bunch of gunk! Cleaned it out and it works PERFECT!! I cannot thank you enough, this little heater is how my kids and I stay warm! :D
No hate mail here. You understand how things work in the Real World. Great video. Thanks.
Thanks so much man I'm in the middle of a winter storm with the kids and all this video was a life savor.
I'm in the middle of one now and we are freezing
@@LightLivingEst80I would suggest plastic in all windows. And hanging thick blankets over doors and entryways if you have the extra ones you want to make sure that they go clear down to the floor and have about four inches of overlap at the bottom or roll over whatever you call it. Also wearing sweats Under pants and thick wool socks on feet. Then body, sweater and then your shirt and then coat over top. All this combined makes one nice and toasty.
Thanks for showing how to actually bypass the thermocouple.
Thanks to inflation, I can't afford a new heater. Now at least I can get my old one working again.
FINALLY! A breakdown of an older model w/ no complex innards. My issue is with pilot flame not reaching the thermocouple tip -- couple not adequately heating up?, heater thinking "nope" and turning off. 15 min runtime max. Have cleaned as far as i can w/out total disassembly. Now i know my next steps. THANK YOU!
OMG FINALLY I HAVE HEAT! Second way that oil gets in there, using a cheap propane hose meant for low pressure after regulator operation but sold and used for high pressure tank to regular hose. The propane acts as a solvent and the pressure up and down leach the plasticizer out of the rubber and the hose gets stiff and you get that oil blocking EVERYTHING!!! I've had to clean out that oil a half dozen times in the span of a year. Next one I'm getting will come from Mr Heater directly because that one they sell is meant for tank side pressure. ^_^ I removed the plunger on the solenoid that's filled with sticky oil at this point and I can finally have heat for more than 5 minutes at a time now. THANKS
Thanks so much!! I couldn't figure out what the problem was!!
Thanks for the advice, well explained... My gas fire is working again thanks to you! Nice one thanks...
Saved me from going through it myself. Thanks. Thermocouple no more.
Awesome...i was doing the math,,,new thermocouple or new unit for $50 shipped......I yanked the thurmo ...thanks
great video... I had to
order a new thermal couple
!!!!!
When all else fails read the manufacturers instructions! in other words, if you're not using tiny bottles, you must use a fuel filter to help mitigate the oil that large tanks get inside them because commercial propane filling motor pumps do not have Teflon rings like they use in the little tiny Coleman bottles.
You made it so simple thank you was about to give up
Thank You this was a life saver
Excellent vid, anybody trying to keep one of these things going, ought to be able to decide on thermocouple, or they don’t have enough expertise, and
Are going to have problems sooner or later. Screw the hate mail. Whole range of fixit vids, lots of different
Theories, yours among the best. well done!
I couldn't start mine - problem was the bottle wasn't screwing on far enough (even when I turned it tight). The solution was simple.. remove the black rubber washer where the bottle connects to the Mr Buddy. The new set of 4 1lb tanks that I bought from Amazon - had threads that didnt go deep enough. The blue pilot is now TWICE as big as before. There does appear to be more rubber than just the black washer.. so the fit is still tight. Use at YOUR discretion.
Awesome video !!! Great knowledge bud
Thanks you save my Buddy Heater come in life
i have a Mr Heater ventless wall mount style. It is roughly 5 months old and we use it to heat up our home gym, just yesterday the pilot light stop staying lit, when you hold the pilot button down to light, the pilot is a nice big blue flame but once you release the button, the pilot will stay lit for like 2 to 5 seconds and go out. Do you think i have a faulty thermocouple? I will try to blow everything out with compressed air tonight for the heck of it.
Most typically it will be a bad thermocouple. But there could be several different problems. Your lines could be clogged like mine. There could also be something wrong with the valve that gets held open. That is basically an electric magnet. Mine had a ton of oil in it. You'll have to go through everything and test stuff. I already showed you had to break it down and how everything's supposed to be. I'm sure you can figure out the problem.
Great explainer thank you so much
You are one with commen sence good show
Could you possibly show how to disassemble the darn thing? I got the top handle off and that's as far I can get. I have a new thermocouple to install, but can't into the case to access it. I would of course give everything a cleaning and inspection. Getting the cabinet apart is my issue, and I can find nothing online anywhere or in the manual. Thanks!
Unfortunately I never made a video of it but my new model had some little clips that had to be pried back I think they were located on the sides or on the top and the bottom I can't remember but they were perpendicular to each other I hope that helps but frankly I know it probably doesn't
Thank you, great Vid.
Nice one.
Hey Jeff. I posted this same comment from another account. I don’t know if ytb allowed it. Sorry for the double post. No rush in responding.
Regarding 7:10-7:30 of your video, I’m thinking about removing the plunger on my patio heater gas valve (like you were demonstrating). Mainly because the pilot gas valve doesn’t stay lit, the thermocouple itself is fine. I modified the thing and converted it to natural gas and I think that has something to do with it. It’s not that the pilot gas valve is dirty or clogged and I’m not going to try to clean it vacuum it etc (it’s that the orifice is too small and it’s too hard to access the pilot jet to drill it out). The only thing I have a concern with is if I removed the plunger, will the pilot gas continue to discharge (although it’s not being burned)? Remember the pilot light constantly goes out due to lack of pressure/flammability because of me converting it to ng. If the pilot valve discharges gas that’s not being burned there could be a buildup and possibly a blowback (not from the main burner, I’ll constantly be monitoring it, but from the small amount of pilot gas). The only workaround I can think of here is to get a 1/4 compression cap and close off the pilot valve (at least I think that’s the size of it). What do you think on all this? Can you offer any feedback?
Thanks!
Ok kept watching and you pretty much answered it. But now the question is how do I close off the pilot valve? 1/4 compression cap? Or maybe kink the tubing and put some sort of protection over the broken part? And then check for leaks. You have any ideas?
@@bro8898 first of all sorry it took me so long to get back to you I don't mind if you didn't respond to as regularly. But to answer your question it's kind of difficult. Because every unit is slightly different. And frankly I don't remember exactly what it looks like unless I was in there taking a look at it again. It's hard to memorize every heater I've ever taken apart. But I'll try to answer you as broadly as I can. Natural gas only runs on I believe 325 PSI. But I believe propane its upward the 15 to 20. So yes you're right you'll have to drill out the workers hole to get enough fuel to do the job. In addition to that I know that the way they burn is slightly different. When converting from propane to natural gas you need to change the air intake as well. But I can't remember which way you change it I think when natural gas you have a block more of it off. At least that's what I did when I converted from propane to Natural Gas on my fire pit in the backyard. As far as a pilot I'm not worried about it on mine because as the heater is burning arrows Rising quickly. What causes a negative pressure underneath the heater and therefore sucks in fresh air right past the pilot. I believe you will be pulling in so much fresh air it will be diluted to the point where combustion is almost impossible. If you look at the specs and how many parts per million natural gas needs to be to ignite its way up there. Long story short if you smell it you have to worry about it. If you can't smell it it's frankly not much of an issue. However if you're using this unit in a closed play such as a car or room it could potentially be a problem if you go to sleep with it. Personally I don't worry about worst-case scenarios. I have a feeling before it got to that level somebody would notice the odor in the room. Opening the door for 5 minutes would fix it. But if you're really dead set on blocking off the gas then yes grabbing a pair of channel locks and kinking the hose or squeezing it should be reasonable to block it off. But if you want to fully block off for sure you remove it and go down to your local Ace Hardware store if you're in California and I'll help you find a plug. Well I think that's all the questions you asked. You probably already have it fixed and finished by now. So this response may not be for you but for somebody else. In addition to that rather than capping off the thermocouple it's always better to replace it. This video is intended for information to help you understand how it works. It's always better to put it back 2 standards. With that said you're not my kid so.... have fun.
Hey Jeff. Thank you so getting back with me and sorry for the late response back haha. Just to update. I have really enjoyed the heater and had a lot of fun with it. I was able to cap off the pilot valve with I think an 1/8 npt cap which doesn’t match up with the compression threads of the valve output. Just doped it really good and sprayed it with soap bubbles and it has no leaks. I will say this though. You MUST diligently watch the flame of the burner to make sure it’s on at all times while using a modified heater like this. I have other heaters around too and discharging unburnt has into a space even outdoors with other heaters present could be a disaster. That’s why the thermocouple is so important. So that takes some of the fun out of it. Long story short I’m basically using the valve as a control valve for how much heat I want. I probably could’ve rigged up a gas cock directly to the burner and had the same results I have now. Still though this shows the importance of not messing with the safeguards built into the valves unless you have a really intimate knowledge of how they work. Even then it may not be a good idea if you have to watch it all the time and constantly worry about it. Whether I continue to use it or not you taught me a lot! Thanks for all the wonderful information!
These are some great questions and you did a great job on explaining everything that you were having the problem with. Unfortunately I don't know the equipment you're working with. So I'm not sure I can be much assistance. However I do know that when you change from propane to Natural Gas you have to change the orifice size. And also you have to change the air intake propane needs more are natural gas does not need as much the reason for that is because propane runs at a lot higher pressure than Natural Gas I hope this point you in the right direction my friend
Hello Jeff thank for your interesting vidéo. It really help me. But If have a question. Is it normal that on my Big Buddy heater that the thermocouple become red hot when I turn it on. I lift the thermocouple a little because it seems like the flame did not hit it enaught. I would like to have your advice on this. Thank's. My name is Denis.
A lot of times they do get red hot. It depends on where the manufacturer installs them. But they don't need to get red hot the function. They just need to get hot enough to make enough of electricity to power the electric magnet. The further they're away from the flame the longer you'll have to hold the pilot light on before it will take over. So there needs to be a balance because it will burn out a lot faster if they get red hot. There's no perfect solution for this. Just find a balance
@@whenjeffgetsbored Thank's a lot.
thanks for the vidya really helped my ass out
I may have a bad thermocouple, what should the voltage (vdc?) read while heating it?
I can get my heater to run but will shut off randomly after a minute or so.
Actually I've never tested that. Next time I pull one of these apart I'll make sure to do that.
I'm glad it helped.
But HOW do you get the black side panels off????
With the biggest hammer you need. Lol. It was built by a man that can be taken apart by a man just be creative my friend you'll figure it out and remember the freaking thing is already broken you can't Broach it more. If you can't fix it it's already going in the trash.
On the new ones there's some little clips that have to be pried back. They're not designed to be put on and off. Be gentle when you pry them off I used a long screwdriver. I hope that helps
thank you , I have a gas heater and the light won't stay lit though I replaced the thermocouple and magnetic bobene but nothing chang , please help me, thanks.
Oh man it sounds like you're having a a bad time. I wish I could help but I'm not really too sure what you're working on. But frankly even if I did I don't have experience on a lot of heaters only a few of them. Please watch both videos and see if you can find the answer in their. Good luck my friend I wish I could do more
@@whenjeffgetsbored thank you sir for your answer.
Good video but It is NEVER okay to bypass safeties for any reason other then trouble shooting. Especially with life safety things such as standing pilot equipment. But some good info for sure
Well that's a personal choice. Some people choose to use rubbers and some people don't. LOL I bet you're the kind of person who uses them! That is if you even have a girl. Girls like very manly men LOL
Don't disable your thermo couple safety unless you are into self explosions. Propane is heavier than air and will accumulate unlike natural gas that will float away. In my area a Farther blew up his whole family when he tried to light a propane water heater that did not shut off. If the thermocouple quits working replace it.
He is wrong about the oil from the 1lb cans. oil build up comes from using certain hoses without a fuel filter for 5-20lb tanks but the oil comes from the hose.
Thank you for telling me that my friend but I don't know how you get oil out of a hose. Even if you melt it under Fire you barely see any oil. The oil that I'm talking about actually comes from your propane. It is mixed in with your propane for a couple reasons the first reason is to give it that funky smell so you can tell if you have a leak. The second reason is to lubricate all your seals. The big problem happens is nobody shakes their propane up and mixes the oil and then it settles to the bottom and then when you use the rest of the bottle it comes out and they're too concentrated mix if I'm wrong please explain a little bit more detail how a hose can produce oil I've never seen that in my career
Mine went out at 11pm ice camping 2 nights ago 😑
I hope this video helps you pictures. Good luck my friend
I would like to say how crappy it is that these Mr Buddy heaters expect everyone to become gas appliance experts. I've had trouble with two of their heaters. These things are designed to be disposable, it's so frustrating. And no one will service these things because they're just stupid little space heaters
That's exactly right and tbh it's not worth the retail price ..one yr use if that .. everything made that way .
It's actually not Mr heaters fault. It's the propane companies. They put too heavy of oil in the propane to make it stink. But the required to do that. So ultimately it's the laws clogging these things up. But I'm glad you can smell the propane when it leaks. Also it helps if you shake the tank vigorously before you use it mix the oil up really well nobody ever talks about that
@@whenjeffgetsbored But it is the manufacturer's fault, because they could design these things to handle the thickness of propane
If you bypass the thermocouple you are asking for trouble. It's there to insure the pilot is lit before the gas goes to the burner
Thank you for adding to the channel.
He did say that but in my opinion he shouldn't even have made a video on the subject.
Well read through the comments you will find that most people are very happy with the video. What people choose to do with it is their prerogative and problem
But what about over here?
I don't understand your question my friend
Why would you tell people to take a.thermocouple off? This is insane. When someone passes out fishing or camping and dies from breathing straight propane pissed up sleeping I'ma room full of propane. Jesus guy not a great idea buy a ten dollar thermocouple so you don't need to remember Killin the whole family camping lol yikes
Thank you for your advice. People are smarter than you give them credit. It's not necessary to always think the worst about people. I believe in people like you and me and the people watching this video. I don't believe they'll be stupid. As for you you can believe whatever you would like and I'll support your thinking. Please support mine
"All right?" "OK?" "All right?" "OK?" "All right?" "OK?" Good grief.
Will you try to make a 10 minute long video on the first take with no editing and let's see how stupid you sound. LOL
What if my thermocouple is electronic and connects to the tip switch?
Ripple that crap out and hardwire it. You might have to light it with a match but just make sure you light the match first and put it to the mantle before you turn the gas on
I'm not too sure what your question is most of the time the thermocouple and tip switches are hooked up in series. Which means if either of them can you shut the pilot off
barely used mine and wont stay lit. It seems a thermocoupler - the issue is, if its so safe that it does not work, what is the point? for 80 bucks and limited run times it should just work. Poor design.
Ok ?
Ok what?
Or just by new one!🤣
Lmfao. You're not wrong friend. You're not wrong