I can now confirm that it is indeed possible! I have followed your impeccable recommendation and found one spring missing. The one i had originally found at tge oil change. My 1961 land rover series 2 is now working perfectly. On another issue: for any one of you with a roamerdrive overdrive attached to the back of the transfer box do remember to use oil 75w 90 GL4 NOT GL5! GL5 is detrimental to the transfer and overdrive. You can obviously use the same oil in the differential, gear box etc.etc
Fantastic! You have done it!!!! You are the first person to say they have after 18 months. Wow! YOU have just made this video worthwhile. I am so pleased that at least one other person has been saved fro removing their gearbox. Happy days and congratulations!
You’re a legend mate! I drained the fluid, found one broken spring, followed your illustration and replaced the missing spring. Didn’t take more than a couple hours total and my girl was back on the road running! Cheers mate👍 It would not engage into third or fourth, that was the symptom.
Wow, thanks so much for this. I followed it to a T and it worked perfectly on the 71 IIA 88. One thing on mine that was different -- the studs to take the initial plate off wouldn't allow the cover to come off (it hits the seat bulkhead). Double nutting the stud and removing it and it worked great. I now have a 3rd gear synchro again. Thanks so much, done in under 2 hours of fiddling around. Sure beats dropping the transmission. Cheers
This is brilliant - thanks! I've got to do this shortly, my faithful steed very obviously ate a spring this week. I spent some time in the workshop today looking at a new 'box I've just built and settled on the same method as you, so seeing this video has bolstered my confidence to have a go. The gearbox currently fitted is a Suffix B with a different syncro unit to the C & D. I have an example of each and noted that the later suffix D unit has a fair old step in the channels where the springs sit, adding another difficulty to the job - possibly why some find this task possible and others give up, declaring it to be impossible! To deal with the later type, it looks like one could get half way, centre the hub and then push the spring through whilst lifting the front.
Good luck. Reply to me here if you need to and I will help as I can! Or email me - clockwatcher24 hotmail com Let me know your locality if you have issues.
Just changed today the oil ( by the way use 75w/90 GL4 NOT GL5 if, as I do, you have a roamerdrive as GL 5 oils are corrosive for copper alloys) of the gearbox and overdrive of my beloved 88 1961 series 2. I found the spring cut in two in the oil attached to the magnet of the drain plug! I have seen your very useful video and as soon as the weather gets better here in Switzerland will attempt the job! Thank you so much for sharing the experience!
Let us know how you get on. It's fiddly, but at least as you KNOW it can be done you can keep at it. It's a problem when you can't do something and you're not really sure if it is possible or not. IT IS!
More a synchro spring than a detent spring , in my opinion The detent springs hold the plungers on the top plate for holding the box in gear. Now they’re easy to change in situ. I’ve done it cos i I got the reverse spring in the wrong cap. !! Success. Well done. I think I need a set of those pliers, I have a couple of long nose pliers already but it’s all part of the arsenal!
I’ve always found that the selectors come out easier in the opposite order to that which you used. Great video though, thanks for sharing. I found the remnants of a spring in my gear oil when I changed it recently. It’s a job I need to do.
Thanks for the video I found two springs when I changed my oil. All 3 were missing, replaced all of them. After bore scoping, rebuild the box. Thank you so much! I had to pull the to studs in the middle to get the cover out with the seat box installed.
Hi David, so you managed to replace them as I did with the box in place???! Woooo! Thank goodness you didn't have to pull and strip the box. I am so pleased for you. Please spread the word to other Landy forums, share the link to this video - it can save people a whole WORLD of pain.
I have just finished doing what you have done, mine had thrown 1 spring only but I used screwdrivers bent in about 5 different ways till I found the right angle to lift the back of the spring, but it was getting jammed as I levered it back and had to make a very small heavy gauge bent rod to jam under the spring and then lever it forward. Thanks for the video it made it possible to do mine.
Important point raised by a Swiss LR driver here. GL4 oil never GL5. The latter causes pitting and decay in gearbox bronze. So avoid like the plague. Also an interesting fact I only recently discovered is the selectors were moved to their exposed forward position for use in the LR. The rover gearbox selectors were in the empty space under the cover plate next to the transfer case. Fine for a P3 saloon car but no good for the LR as the stick would come up though the seat box. So that’s why they leak from the top of the gearbox....
Good day to you sir I have a 1974 series 3 and I owned it for the last 2 years couple of days ago I was missing with the hi ratio lever and the four wheel drive lever while the car is not moving then I put it back in normal gears just front wheel drive and I drove it for about 5 MI and all of a sudden the stick shift will not leave 3rd gear and still stuck any suggestions please
Not sure if you still come on here but I'll try, just tried this job but I'm unsure if it was in 3rd gear when I got down to the cogs and after I removed the selectors. I was likely taking the gearbox out anyway so it's no massive drama if the job is now a no-go in this way, you look like you have more access from the video but I'm not sure either way. But you look like your manipulating through the gears anyway so how crucial is the initial 3rd gear replacement if I didn't?? One detent spring is missing so job needed doing but damn looks like the gearbox off now 😭 hope to hear back cheers
Yup. This is me! The access is tiny, it looks bigger in the vid. Anyway your question... slide the synchro cage back/forward as needed. I moved it a couple of times while trying. Starting in 3 or 4 is not critical. Good luck!
All done, wasn't too bad in the end. Roughly 45 mins of fiddling around and then it just seemed to go into place, wish I could reveal some fantastic technique but persistence was all really. Lifting the back of the detent spring with pliers and then using a flathead screwdriver to shift it along seemed to work for me, I did lose a new one down in the oil which will hopefully be able to retrieve out when I drain it. Many thanks for uploading and saving the hassle of a gearbox removal or an expensive mechanic!
@@Georgie-gt6lr Fabulous news! Make sure you post about it (and link the video) on any Landy boards you are on. It saves a world of grief of taking out and stripping the gear box! I am so please mate, I really am! ATB John
Hi. I am trying to do this. I get as far as "using a pair of angled nose pliers, push the clip down and twist anti-clockwise and it will snap into position" and get stuck. I cannot for the life of me get the detent to move through the gap rearwards. Not even a mil. The front end of the detent is catching of course, but I am able to twist and lift the detent high enough to clear the front... But it just won't slide back and through. How!???
So you should have the ring pushed towards the rear of the vehicle so you are fitting the spring in front. Spring goes in in front along side the pin. Front slides into gap under forward teeth and hooks. Slide forward as far as it goes. Grab spring with pliers and jiggle... you are sliding it sideways towards the pin... pushing it down to tuck under the pin snd keeping the end of the spring from catching... all at the same time. Whereabouts are you? Email me. Happy to help if not a million miles away.... cover fuel and feed me! You have selectors out and floor and tunnel out? Email me... clockwatcher24 hotmail com Looking forwards to hearing from you
I know somebody who has done it..... Well done John. The small rubber ring on on the side detents are oil seals would you belive...as are the ones on the selector rods...they dont work very well.
I can now confirm that it is indeed possible! I have followed your impeccable recommendation and found one spring missing. The one i had originally found at tge oil change. My 1961 land rover series 2 is now working perfectly. On another issue: for any one of you with a roamerdrive overdrive attached to the back of the transfer box do remember to use oil 75w 90 GL4 NOT GL5! GL5 is detrimental to the transfer and overdrive. You can obviously use the same oil in the differential, gear box etc.etc
Fantastic! You have done it!!!!
You are the first person to say they have after 18 months. Wow! YOU have just made this video worthwhile. I am so pleased that at least one other person has been saved fro removing their gearbox.
Happy days and congratulations!
You’re a legend mate! I drained the fluid, found one broken spring, followed your illustration and replaced the missing spring. Didn’t take more than a couple hours total and my girl was back on the road running! Cheers mate👍
It would not engage into third or fourth, that was the symptom.
Glad it worked out pal!
Wow, thanks so much for this. I followed it to a T and it worked perfectly on the 71 IIA 88. One thing on mine that was different -- the studs to take the initial plate off wouldn't allow the cover to come off (it hits the seat bulkhead). Double nutting the stud and removing it and it worked great. I now have a 3rd gear synchro again. Thanks so much, done in under 2 hours of fiddling around. Sure beats dropping the transmission. Cheers
So pleased bob! It saves a shedload of work and is so satisfying when it finally snicks into place!!!
This is brilliant - thanks! I've got to do this shortly, my faithful steed very obviously ate a spring this week. I spent some time in the workshop today looking at a new 'box I've just built and settled on the same method as you, so seeing this video has bolstered my confidence to have a go. The gearbox currently fitted is a Suffix B with a different syncro unit to the C & D. I have an example of each and noted that the later suffix D unit has a fair old step in the channels where the springs sit, adding another difficulty to the job - possibly why some find this task possible and others give up, declaring it to be impossible! To deal with the later type, it looks like one could get half way, centre the hub and then push the spring through whilst lifting the front.
All the best with it and let us all know how you get on.
I found a mangled spring in my gearbox oil this evening. New springs and a set of long nose pliers on order after watching this video! Thanks!
Good luck. Reply to me here if you need to and I will help as I can! Or email me - clockwatcher24 hotmail com Let me know your locality if you have issues.
Just changed today the oil ( by the way use 75w/90 GL4 NOT GL5 if, as I do, you have a roamerdrive as GL 5 oils are corrosive for copper alloys) of the gearbox and overdrive of my beloved 88 1961 series 2. I found the spring cut in two in the oil attached to the magnet of the drain plug! I have seen your very useful video and as soon as the weather gets better here in Switzerland will attempt the job! Thank you so much for sharing the experience!
Let us know how you get on. It's fiddly, but at least as you KNOW it can be done you can keep at it. It's a problem when you can't do something and you're not really sure if it is possible or not.
IT IS!
More a synchro spring than a detent spring , in my opinion The detent springs hold the plungers on the top plate for holding the box in gear. Now they’re easy to change in situ. I’ve done it cos i I got the reverse spring in the wrong cap. !!
Success. Well done. I think I need a set of those pliers, I have a couple of long nose pliers already but it’s all part of the arsenal!
I’ve always found that the selectors come out easier in the opposite order to that which you used. Great video though, thanks for sharing. I found the remnants of a spring in my gear oil when I changed it recently. It’s a job I need to do.
Thanks for the video I found two springs when I changed my oil. All 3 were missing, replaced all of them. After bore scoping, rebuild the box. Thank you so much! I had to pull the to studs in the middle to get the cover out with the seat box installed.
Hi David, so you managed to replace them as I did with the box in place???! Woooo! Thank goodness you didn't have to pull and strip the box. I am so pleased for you. Please spread the word to other Landy forums, share the link to this video - it can save people a whole WORLD of pain.
I have just finished doing what you have done, mine had thrown 1 spring only but I used screwdrivers bent in about 5 different ways till I found the right angle to lift the back of the spring, but it was getting jammed as I levered it back and had to make a very small heavy gauge bent rod to jam under the spring and then lever it forward. Thanks for the video it made it possible to do mine.
Fantastic! I am so pleased. It's a PITA but SOOO much better than removing and dismantling the box. Glad you got it sorted.
Well done mate. Good job. Ordering those long pliers today!
Awesome work. Thanks for sharing. Such a work saver.
Awesome work mate, will keep that in mind if I ever find some metal in my gearbox oil changes !! thanks for sharing !!
Very welcome... hope it doesn't happen!
Important point raised by a Swiss LR driver here. GL4 oil never GL5. The latter causes pitting and decay in gearbox bronze. So avoid like the plague.
Also an interesting fact I only recently discovered is the selectors were moved to their exposed forward position for use in the LR. The rover gearbox selectors were in the empty space under the cover plate next to the transfer case. Fine for a P3 saloon car but no good for the LR as the stick would come up though the seat box. So that’s why they leak from the top of the gearbox....
Good day to you sir I have a 1974 series 3 and I owned it for the last 2 years couple of days ago I was missing with the hi ratio lever and the four wheel drive lever while the car is not moving then I put it back in normal gears just front wheel drive and I drove it for about 5 MI and all of a sudden the stick shift will not leave 3rd gear and still stuck any suggestions please
brilliant , i thoroughly enjoyed your vidio . thank you !
Great video, it's been very helpful so far!!
Excellent video, thank you!
It certanly is possible I did it on my S3 109 about 33 years ago
Fantastic! Thank you so much
Well done! Patience and perseverance
Not sure if you still come on here but I'll try, just tried this job but I'm unsure if it was in 3rd gear when I got down to the cogs and after I removed the selectors. I was likely taking the gearbox out anyway so it's no massive drama if the job is now a no-go in this way, you look like you have more access from the video but I'm not sure either way. But you look like your manipulating through the gears anyway so how crucial is the initial 3rd gear replacement if I didn't??
One detent spring is missing so job needed doing but damn looks like the gearbox off now 😭 hope to hear back cheers
Yup. This is me!
The access is tiny, it looks bigger in the vid.
Anyway your question... slide the synchro cage back/forward as needed. I moved it a couple of times while trying.
Starting in 3 or 4 is not critical.
Good luck!
See me change from 3 to 4 position at about 10.50 in the vid.
Make sure you let people know about this fix!
Many thanks for getting back so quick, i'll let you know how things go. Cheers @@Mr-Sensible
All done, wasn't too bad in the end. Roughly 45 mins of fiddling around and then it just seemed to go into place, wish I could reveal some fantastic technique but persistence was all really. Lifting the back of the detent spring with pliers and then using a flathead screwdriver to shift it along seemed to work for me, I did lose a new one down in the oil which will hopefully be able to retrieve out when I drain it. Many thanks for uploading and saving the hassle of a gearbox removal or an expensive mechanic!
@@Georgie-gt6lr Fabulous news!
Make sure you post about it (and link the video) on any Landy boards you are on. It saves a world of grief of taking out and stripping the gear box!
I am so please mate, I really am!
ATB
John
Hi. I am trying to do this. I get as far as "using a pair of angled nose pliers, push the clip down and twist anti-clockwise and it will snap into position" and get stuck. I cannot for the life of me get the detent to move through the gap rearwards. Not even a mil. The front end of the detent is catching of course, but I am able to twist and lift the detent high enough to clear the front... But it just won't slide back and through. How!???
So you should have the ring pushed towards the rear of the vehicle so you are fitting the spring in front. Spring goes in in front along side the pin. Front slides into gap under forward teeth and hooks. Slide forward as far as it goes.
Grab spring with pliers and jiggle... you are sliding it sideways towards the pin... pushing it down to tuck under the pin snd keeping the end of the spring from catching... all at the same time.
Whereabouts are you? Email me. Happy to help if not a million miles away.... cover fuel and feed me!
You have selectors out and floor and tunnel out?
Email me... clockwatcher24 hotmail com
Looking forwards to hearing from you
@@TropicalSunriseTans thanks for the reply. Have emailed you.
I know somebody who has done it.....
Well done John.
The small rubber ring on on the side detents are oil seals would you belive...as are the ones on the selector rods...they dont work very well.
Great video. Thx. :)
Awesome video! Thanks :)
Easy when you know how 👍
Good Job!!!!
❤❤❤
T H A N K Y O U ! ! !
Well done. The did get that bitch!! LOL!!!I use the same technical terminology upon victory
Noice!
Thanks chap! I am walking on air!