I'm a disabled mechanic/machinist, so I help the local kids with their whacky projects a lot, I'm definitely gonna be using your tech vids to help explain things to them. Quick and dirty has its place, but it's so nice to see others being as fussy as me, hah. 62% of vehicle failures are electrical, and electrical failures are often less obvious, than say brake fluid dripping out of a wheel cylinder, so it's worth doing a good job. Sure you could wire a bike with wire coat hangers with electrical tape for insulation, but we don't have to any more, hah. I worked as a marine diesel mechanic 20 years ago, and as soon as I saw that double wall heat shrink I started to use it for everything, just cause of greater corrosion resistance, and the strain relief. I'm still working through your guys vids, but one thing you might be pumped to learn about, if you don't know about it already, is the high strand count wire. If you've ever handled a commercial welding lead, you'll see this great big 4/0 wire, but it will be as flexible as a piece of string, instead of a typical fat battery cable, that is so stiff you can practically use it as a crowbar. They make it in smaller gauges and while it's more expensive, the limited runs in a bike, make the overall price difference negligible. Through physics wizardry, wires transmit the lions share of power on the surfaces of the strands, so more strands of a smaller diameter will flow more juice, or, you can flow the same amount of power in a thinner wire. The flexibility is so much greater, you can tuck wires around corners tighter, and those weak spots that fail from fatigue just past the stiff soldered connections, the higher strand count wire can just flex back and forth many many more times, before it fatigues. The Ford model A guys have a wire in the stock distributor that fails if you use regular modern wire, so they usually know where to find the high strand count stuff. And because they use it, you can get it in the cool olde timey cloth cover.
Reassured to see I was doing it well 👍 nothing boring there, I could watch Stephan all day... Great quality videos, just wish you could find time to do more on every aspect of rebuilding vintage bikes ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Not in particular but most of us don't use anything fancy. Most of us use a generic $20-30 model with digital readout. Hoping to source one for a solding kit soon for the site soon.
Connectors are a surprisingly tricky thing, and there isn't a single solution. Generally we like to use automotive sealed connectors, like molex MX150, Deutsch connectors, AMP Seal, etc. But for something like an LED turn signal, the molex Mizu p25 is perfect
For general purpose I like this stuff... www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/AIM/13426/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuQDxh7mFZIaQuq%2fiyGofgJJjeEmqWTlf0%3d But if someone out there has a better suggestion please chime in.
That is a optical inspection master dividing head on a Vinco. Theoretically it was (possibly is) the worlds most accurate dividing head capable of total index error less than 2 seconds. We just use it as a prop in videos....lame
Thats ridiculously accurate lol. I had to look these up online, never have heard of them before. So that is the correct Vinco table for the head? Do yall ever use this to inspect cams/cranks or anything? Very cool.
Reading a book on troubleshooting bike electrical systems, and they suggest posi-lock connectors for connecting wires. Are posi-locks a better option in your opinion? And since I mentioned a book, any suggestions on books about motorcycle electrical systems, please?
Posi-locks are GREAT for in the field repairs or very quick and dirty stuff. They are better than the blue red and yellow crimp connectors at the autoparts store, but they are not appropriate for initial installs or primary splices on a freshly build loom. My opinion is that a properly done solder and heat shrink joint is as robust as it gets. As for books, I'm not really sure, as I haven't ready many that are specific to motorcycling. I've read a few nasa spec's and some other industrial application papers for automotive connectors. I'm aware of one from Namz that looks pretty good, but remember just because its in a book does not make it correct. Example: Haynes and Clymer manuals are full of errors, typos, and questionable practices, but are still 98% correct. If you really want to know what is best, you'd need to test each assembly idea and subject each to a test protocol that was stressful enough to produce a failure, but also representative of the application. Beyond that its just hand waving and opinions.
Thanks for the reply. Sorry I wasn't clear enough, I meant books about troubleshooting/understanding bike electrical systems. I'm not a builder, I mostly work on my own bikes that I bought.
Unfortunately I haven't really ready any books on that subject but I did just skim through a bit of the preview of this book and it looks like it has good and accurate information. Either way for $25 you could always just use it as a door stop, if it isn't worth much as a reference book. www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Electrical-Systems-Troubleshooting-Motorbooks/dp/0760327165
I'm a disabled mechanic/machinist, so I help the local kids with their whacky projects a lot, I'm definitely gonna be using your tech vids to help explain things to them. Quick and dirty has its place, but it's so nice to see others being as fussy as me, hah. 62% of vehicle failures are electrical, and electrical failures are often less obvious, than say brake fluid dripping out of a wheel cylinder, so it's worth doing a good job. Sure you could wire a bike with wire coat hangers with electrical tape for insulation, but we don't have to any more, hah. I worked as a marine diesel mechanic 20 years ago, and as soon as I saw that double wall heat shrink I started to use it for everything, just cause of greater corrosion resistance, and the strain relief.
I'm still working through your guys vids, but one thing you might be pumped to learn about, if you don't know about it already, is the high strand count wire. If you've ever handled a commercial welding lead, you'll see this great big 4/0 wire, but it will be as flexible as a piece of string, instead of a typical fat battery cable, that is so stiff you can practically use it as a crowbar. They make it in smaller gauges and while it's more expensive, the limited runs in a bike, make the overall price difference negligible. Through physics wizardry, wires transmit the lions share of power on the surfaces of the strands, so more strands of a smaller diameter will flow more juice, or, you can flow the same amount of power in a thinner wire. The flexibility is so much greater, you can tuck wires around corners tighter, and those weak spots that fail from fatigue just past the stiff soldered connections, the higher strand count wire can just flex back and forth many many more times, before it fatigues. The Ford model A guys have a wire in the stock distributor that fails if you use regular modern wire, so they usually know where to find the high strand count stuff. And because they use it, you can get it in the cool olde timey cloth cover.
this guy is the Bob Ross of Motorcycles lol
Reassured to see I was doing it well 👍 nothing boring there, I could watch Stephan all day... Great quality videos, just wish you could find time to do more on every aspect of rebuilding vintage bikes ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Great products with great tutorials. Just ordered my M Unit.. Cant wait to hook it up..Thanks Steph
Great video. I just happen to be doing some rewiring on my bike, and this just emphasizes to do it right. Thank you.
Another very helpful video! Cheers guys, keep these coming! Off to visit your website for some badass heat shrink!
Excellent video. I wasn't aware that dual wall heat shrink existed.
Revival! We need this talks weekly ;-)
Right on time. I am about to use the three to one. Thanks
awesome vid guys great tech
Another Master Class...
Do you have a favorite brand and model of soldering iron when splicing?
Not in particular but most of us don't use anything fancy. Most of us use a generic $20-30 model with digital readout. Hoping to source one for a solding kit soon for the site soon.
What would you recommend to use for connectors, like for turn signals, if you’re not a fan of crimped connections?
Connectors are a surprisingly tricky thing, and there isn't a single solution. Generally we like to use automotive sealed connectors, like molex MX150, Deutsch connectors, AMP Seal, etc. But for something like an LED turn signal, the molex Mizu p25 is perfect
What type of solder do you recommend using? Great video btw!
For general purpose I like this stuff... www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/AIM/13426/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuQDxh7mFZIaQuq%2fiyGofgJJjeEmqWTlf0%3d
But if someone out there has a better suggestion please chime in.
Thanks for the quick reply!
is that some type of indexing head on the right side of the vid? great info btw, a lot of people overlook or rush details like this (:
That is a optical inspection master dividing head on a Vinco. Theoretically it was (possibly is) the worlds most accurate dividing head capable of total index error less than 2 seconds. We just use it as a prop in videos....lame
Thats ridiculously accurate lol. I had to look these up online, never have heard of them before. So that is the correct Vinco table for the head? Do yall ever use this to inspect cams/cranks or anything? Very cool.
Reading a book on troubleshooting bike electrical systems, and they suggest posi-lock connectors for connecting wires. Are posi-locks a better option in your opinion? And since I mentioned a book, any suggestions on books about motorcycle electrical systems, please?
Posi-locks are GREAT for in the field repairs or very quick and dirty stuff. They are better than the blue red and yellow crimp connectors at the autoparts store, but they are not appropriate for initial installs or primary splices on a freshly build loom. My opinion is that a properly done solder and heat shrink joint is as robust as it gets.
As for books, I'm not really sure, as I haven't ready many that are specific to motorcycling. I've read a few nasa spec's and some other industrial application papers for automotive connectors. I'm aware of one from Namz that looks pretty good, but remember just because its in a book does not make it correct. Example: Haynes and Clymer manuals are full of errors, typos, and questionable practices, but are still 98% correct.
If you really want to know what is best, you'd need to test each assembly idea and subject each to a test protocol that was stressful enough to produce a failure, but also representative of the application. Beyond that its just hand waving and opinions.
Thanks for the reply. Sorry I wasn't clear enough, I meant books about troubleshooting/understanding bike electrical systems. I'm not a builder, I mostly work on my own bikes that I bought.
Unfortunately I haven't really ready any books on that subject but I did just skim through a bit of the preview of this book and it looks like it has good and accurate information. Either way for $25 you could always just use it as a door stop, if it isn't worth much as a reference book. www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Electrical-Systems-Troubleshooting-Motorbooks/dp/0760327165
LOL! You are the fourth person (maybe fifth) to suggest that book when I ask this question to different mechanics or in forums. Door stop! Good one.
a better mouse trap than i was using. lol
Fell asleep watching this 😴 cool light tho
Bike Nerds Rock!