Hi Kevin, Yes should be on BSA B25 Starfire Crankshaft Rebuild Part 2, link below, Regards Brian. th-cam.com/video/0LY547rcJzg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=_dmHNclMrDDKNL-Q
Hi Kevin, Sorry no, only the inspection of the crankshaft and connecting rod. You don’t need to remove the the flywheels from the crankshaft, l had to do this on mine as the sludge/debris trap plug was so tight it was either drill out the plug or remove the flywheel to clean the trap. Remove of the crankshaft from the cases is no too difficult, remove the alternator rotor and primary drive sprocket from the clutch side, and the timing gear and oil pump helix from the timing side. Remove all the bolts and nuts from the two halves of the crankcases and the left case should lift off easily leaving the crankshaft in the r/h case. Then gently tap the crankshaft out, take great care when tapping out the crankshaft by using a block of timber on the end of the crankshaft as it’s so easy to damage the end where the oil feed comes in. The link below is the crankshaft inspection. Regards Brian. th-cam.com/video/op-GNfPsjnQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=EJp1G7tKoDfej24j
Hello again Brian...Im having a problem with my clutch basket assembly .I put new roller bearings in and when i button it up it turns really smooth its when i put it on the main shaft and torque it down you can hardly turn the the clutch hub it turns very rough.I take the whole thing off the shaft and it spins very nicely. I noticed you had a a thrust washer or some kind of spacer. I dont remember having one.If you have any ideas what's going on i would appreciate it...Thanks Gordy
Hi Gordy, it’s only on the last generation of the B25’s where they changed the mounting hub where the 25 rollers sit, so that would be on the 1970> oil in frame versions. They made the flange on the hub a larger diameter and fitted the thrust washer, the clutch basket was also modified to match the bigger surface area where the new thrust washer runs, this helped reduce the wobble on the clutch basked. However if you are fitting back the original components and have only fitted new rollers then the issue must be somewhere else. Have a look at the centre hub and check where the 4 counter sunk screws come through at the back that the ends of the screws are flush with the back of the hub and don’t protrude and rub on the flange when tightened. Have any of the basket or hub components been renewed apart from the rollers? Regards Brian
@@TheCADengineer Hey Brian im assuming the clutch assembly is the original as far as i can tell! The the motor has never been tor n down except for a ring job or maybe new clutch plates. I will pull it off again and check out the back side where the stud bolts are riveted on and make sure that they are not rubbing.Ok thanks again with your help and God Save The King......Gordy
Hey Brian...i finally got everything right with the world .I put machinist dye on all the parts then i put it all back together spun it by hand and as usual it was spinning rough.After taking it all apart i could see on the very back side where the center of the hub spins was barely rubbing against the drive sprocket cover plate. I took it off and rotated it about half way and put it back together and it now turns smooth as butter.Thought i would let you know....Gordy
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Is there a part of your series that shows replacement of the connecting rod?
Hi Kevin, Yes should be on BSA B25 Starfire Crankshaft Rebuild Part 2, link below, Regards Brian. th-cam.com/video/0LY547rcJzg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=_dmHNclMrDDKNL-Q
@@TheCADengineer thank you! How about any video showing removal of the crankshaft/connecting rod assy from the case?
Hi Kevin, Sorry no, only the inspection of the crankshaft and connecting rod. You don’t need to remove the the flywheels from the crankshaft, l had to do this on mine as the sludge/debris trap plug was so tight it was either drill out the plug or remove the flywheel to clean the trap. Remove of the crankshaft from the cases is no too difficult, remove the alternator rotor and primary drive sprocket from the clutch side, and the timing gear and oil pump helix from the timing side. Remove all the bolts and nuts from the two halves of the crankcases and the left case should lift off easily leaving the crankshaft in the r/h case. Then gently tap the crankshaft out, take great care when tapping out the crankshaft by using a block of timber on the end of the crankshaft as it’s so easy to damage the end where the oil feed comes in. The link below is the crankshaft inspection. Regards Brian. th-cam.com/video/op-GNfPsjnQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=EJp1G7tKoDfej24j
Hello again Brian...Im having a problem with my clutch basket assembly .I put new roller bearings in and when i button it up it turns really smooth its when i put it on the main shaft and torque it down you can hardly turn the the clutch hub it turns very rough.I take the whole thing off the shaft and it spins very nicely. I noticed you had a a thrust washer or some kind of spacer. I dont remember having one.If you have any ideas what's going on i would appreciate it...Thanks Gordy
Hi Gordy, it’s only on the last generation of the B25’s where they changed the mounting hub where the 25 rollers sit, so that would be on the 1970> oil in frame versions. They made the flange on the hub a larger diameter and fitted the thrust washer, the clutch basket was also modified to match the bigger surface area where the new thrust washer runs, this helped reduce the wobble on the clutch basked. However if you are fitting back the original components and have only fitted new rollers then the issue must be somewhere else. Have a look at the centre hub and check where the 4 counter sunk screws come through at the back that the ends of the screws are flush with the back of the hub and don’t protrude and rub on the flange when tightened. Have any of the basket or hub components been renewed apart from the rollers? Regards Brian
@@TheCADengineer Hey Brian im assuming the clutch assembly is the original as far as i can tell! The the motor has never been tor n down except for a ring job or maybe new clutch plates. I will pull it off again and check out the back side where the stud bolts are riveted on and make sure that they are not rubbing.Ok thanks again with your help and God Save The King......Gordy
Hey Brian...i finally got everything right with the world .I put machinist dye on all the parts then i put it all back together spun it by hand and as usual it was spinning rough.After taking it all apart i could see on the very back side where the center of the hub spins was barely rubbing against the drive sprocket cover plate. I took it off and rotated it about half way and put it back together and it now turns smooth as butter.Thought i would let you know....Gordy
@@vicktor440 Hi Gordy, Spot on for finding the problem.
Regards, Brian
I had that problem you may have to set the layshaft roller in deeper until you get 3-5 thousand clearance with the trust washer on.