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Its the mechanical synchronization for adjusting and matching the inner cable lengths, not the setting of the mixture or slow running.

Hi, for the rear mudguard there are three fixing points, two on the rear frame hoop under the seat and one lower mounting on an angle bracket to the rear of the engine. If the top brackets have rusted out or have been cut off and you don’t have access to a welder you could buy a couple of ‘P’ clamps the same or slightly smaller than the diameter of the rear hoop tube and possibly fabricate a bracket that can bolt to the lower part of the frame or one of the engine mount plates. Ideally new lugs should be made and welded to the frame, however worth a try with ‘P’ clamps. Regards Brian

I have never removed the trailer from the car with the bike on it, but I can see that there could be times when you might need to do it, so the jockey wheel would be needed as the weight bias looks to be around 2/3rds to the front and your 190kg RE Classic is too much just for one person, hope you have enough space to fit the jockey wheel. Regarding the lights, there is a plus; as you are only towing with a bike on the back the profile is very narrow so the towing vehicles rear lights are fully visible when behind which are probably better than any lighting boards illumination. Good luck with the jockey wheel fitment. Regards, Brian.

Probably me and the camera, the camera is an old Lumix digital camera, but can record video. When funds allow I will be treating myself to a GoPro or similar, but will still need to work on my poor camera and editing skills. Regards, Brian.

Thanks for your nice comment, lots of adjustments and synchronisation with your set up of 4, but I am sure you will get there. Regards, Brian.

Hi, The tool is just a piece of flat bar (50mm wide x 6mm thick) drilled to match the pattern of the the locknut, but any piece of scrap bar will do. I use M4 bolts as the pins because my plate has many hole patterns for different bikes, so you just move the bolts to match appropriate hole pattern.

@@leaflee2066 l never noticed the difference in volume levels between the intro and the video or that the main video sound was only on the left speaker as l,am a tad deaf on my right, but now l know how to change the audio settings and what the base volume settings should be so thanks for that. However l still just joint the video clips together without editing, but l am slowly learning how to use the video software. Regards, Brian

Thank you kindly!

That is lovely. Nice job you’ve done on that. I do like the gold colour. Seems a bit less common than red for a Honda. Thanks for video. Enjoy your holiday. Les

Thanks, it’s a lovely little bike to ride and for a 125 (or 145 as it is now) it would give the B25 greenlaner a good chase. Had a run over the fields yesterday on in it but keep pressing the gear lever instead of the back brake as it’s an automatic reaction after years of riding old British bikes with the brake and gears on the opposite side. Looking at the linkage l could convert the rear brake to the left hand side, but moving the gearshift over would be too complicated. Regards, Brian.

@@TheCADengineer I feel for you! I converted myself over to left-foot gearchange years ago and going back would be too much to cope with. Have just changed my Innova 125 over to ‘down for down’ because kept getting muddled changing from my Serow to the Innova. Still confused over the auto clutch though! Les

@@leslieaustin151 l have just done a job on a Serow and forgot what a great bike they are, this was an early kickstart version, the exhaust header studs had been sheared off and someone had tried to drill them out but the drill had drifted into the softer aluminium. I managed to die grind the studs out with a 4mm solid carbide burr, then drilled and tapped 15mm deeper into the head, l made longer studs out of 316 stainless. I hung the bike from the front wheel on the engine hoist which made it a lot easier and saved taking the head off. I had a ride round on it when it was finished and had forgotten what a lovely bike they were, Yamaha of that era were the Rolls Royce of motorcycles.

@@asifkadodia3822 The outer races of diff carrier bearings only have a very small lip to get behind, after l removed the oil seals l could only get in with an 8mm drift on an angle, however l did heat the aluminium around the bearing first with a gas blowtorch to expand it it a tad, then just keep tapping either side with the drift and walk them out. It’s a bit crude but they came out fine. Regards, Brian

@TheCADengineer Thanks for all your help. I was able to put a new bearing based on the part # you gave me and replaced the race as well. I appreciate it 🙏

@@jamesgeorge4874 Yep, fitted a 2mm aluminium base gasket on my BSA B50 500cc single to knock the compression ratio down as l struggled to kick it over, l could have done the same on the Honda by adding a thicker base gasket instead of machining the inlet valve pocket, however l still would have ended up taking the 3mm off the top of the outer edge of the piston down to 56mm to match the cylinder head plus re profiling the dome on the crown, as it was running very rough and hard to start due to the pre ignition as l had inadvertently created a squish band. Running nice now and start’s easily, but now the carb jetting needs looking at, so have just ordered a kit of main and pilot jets and will have a play around with that until l am happy with it.

@@TheCADengineer Nature of the beast.

Hi, The bearing in question are the crown wheel bearings (one on either side of the crown wheel) The bearings came in a kit as; the 2 crown wheel bearings, the inner and outer pinion bearings, the 2 crown wheel oil seals, the pinon oil seal and the 2 O ring gaskets. However I should still have the old bearings in the workshop, I will get the bearing number off the crown wheel bearings later today when I am in the workshop and let you know. Regards, Brian.

Hi, The crown wheel taper bearing number is 32008 and the size is 40mm i/d x 68mm o/d x 19mm wide. The originals are KOYO hi capacity. Landranger Deeside 4X4 sell them but they are quite expensive, however any bearing supplier will have them, but they should be good quality. Regards, Brian.

Thank you. I appreciate it

I was able to order the bearing from Rockauto based on the model/part #. My other issue is that I might have to replace rear diff side cover. There was some wear and tear on the ring where the axle seal fits. The seal doesn't fit tight. If you are able to provide an email address, I can send you the pics. Thanks

@@asifkadodia3822 There is some great gasket jointing compound that I have had some good results from which will work for the O ring seal and on the outer edge of the oil seal if you have some damage on the faces. Its called Simply Instant Gasket, I buy the 200ml size as in that size it comes in an easy to apply auto dispensing tube, or you can get a 310ml size but you need a mastic gun to apply it. The link below is where I bought my last tube from. Regards, Brian. www.amazon.co.uk/Simply-SR-005-Silicone-Instant-Gasket/dp/B00CI86RCM

Hi, The cheap Chinese rev counter I bought will work from single to multi cylinder engines, so from one to eight cylinders by pressing a button on the rear of the unit, the first push and hold for a few seconds activates the mode, then each time you momentarily push the button the rev counter needle moves up; i.e. one press moves it to 1,000 rpm position which equals 1 cylinder engine (I pulse = 2 full rotations which is 720 degrees of engine rotation for a 4 stroke) Two presses moves the needle to the 2,000 rpm position for a twin cylinder engine (1 pulse per one full engine rotation = 360 degrees) Three presses moves the needle to the 3,000 rpm position (one pulse every 2/3rds of engine rotation = 240 degrees) and so on, when you have set the needle to the correct valve for the number of cylinders press and hold the button for a few seconds and the value is stored. The pulse signal comes from the points side of the ignition coil. Not sure how you unit is configured, but send me a link to the instructions and I will have a look. Regards, Brian.

@@TheCADengineer mine is a speedo/tach combo that has only pulse rate setting that goes from 1.0-140.0.

@@dwightnix893 Where do you pick up the pulse signal? In the instructions it should tell you what the values are for the PPR signal (pulses per revolution) once you find out what the pulse values are equal too (eg. 1.0 = 360 degrees of crankshaft rotation) Make sure you are picking up the pulse signal, as you should get a response from the rev counter whatever the pulse setting is.

@@bsa_brummie7775 Completely agree, good job. Les

@@leslieaustin151 Hi, l reduced the height of the outer top edge of the piston by 2 millimetres and re profiled the piston dome as much as l could without compromising the strength. Regards Brian

@@leaflee2066 Hi, l am still learning how to edit videos before l upload them, l will have a look at the audio of the intro to see how to reduce the volume, then save the settings for future videos. Regards Brian

@@leslieaustin151 Hi Les, I think l have inadvertently created a squish band on the outer edge of the piston as the hemispherical chamber in the head is smaller than the outer diameter of the piston which is creating massive pre ignition, so l will see if l can modify the piston a tad more. Regards Brian

@@TheCADengineer OK Brian. As the cylinder is now bigger than originally I presume that flat-topping the entire piston would still give higher than standard compression ratio, (provided there is metal enough on the piston crown to allow that). But that squish band might still be a problem. Would the metal above the top ring allow the piston to be turned down a little lower? Or the head allow for some metal removal - but not near the valve seats? I fiddle with motorcycles and seemingly can’t bear anything to be ‘standard’ so I do see your problems here! Les

@@leslieaustin151 Hi Les, took as much off the top of the piston that l can, l don’t want to make any changes to the hemispherical head as l may need to revert back to the standard barrel. Regards Brian

Hi Les, l use an old digital camera that has a video function for TH-cam, unfortunately it can only record sound in monophonic and it looks like TH-cam just uses mono on the left channel. I don’t do any video editing at the moment, l just stitch the videos together and upload them, however l am teaching myself how to use DaVinci Resolve editing software which l created my intro with, l would imagine there is a function in the sound section to enable splitting the mono signal to the left and right channels, bit of a horizontal learning curve with the software, but slowly getting there. Glad you enjoyed the videos as l enjoy making them. Regards Brian

@@TheCADengineer That sounds fair enough! Thanks for the explanation, I can continue to turn the headphones round! Les

Hi Les, Just finished the engine so the video for that will be going up shortly. Also found a good petrol tank, its a tad shoddy on the outside but no rust on the inside which is unusual for a UK Jap bike of the early 70's. So frame next so I can drop the engine in and see how it runs with the big bore kit. Regards Brian.

@@juleswatt3248 Hi Jules, lt looks like all the running gear is exactly the same between the 100 and 125, however the engine top end is different, but not just the bore (stroke is the same) but it looks like the cylinder head has smaller valves. The big bore cylinder and piston kit has just turned up and the barrel doesn’t fit so l have just had to machine the barrel to fit the crankcase. Next job is to modify the piston which l will be looking at tomorrow. Hopefully l can machine it to miss hitting the inlet valve, but l have ordered a standard barrel and piston just in case l can’t get it to fit. The video will be up in the next day or so to show success or failure, hopefully a successful result. Regards Brian

Thanks, just waiting on seals and dust shields and the forks are done.

No worries, hanging on to it for a while yet though. Regards, Brian.

Hi Colin, The Daytona is finished and now my daily ride, the BSA B25 hybrid greenlaneer is also done and l have taken them both to a couple of shows and l will hang on to both of them for a while. I have just sold my BSA B50 that l did a couple of years ago as l have only been out on it once this year, it’s quite a tall framed bike and if l stall it running up a steep slope I have to roll it down to a flat area to kick it over, the 500cc single is a bit of a beast to kick, no problem for someone with a bit of weight, but l am a tad small and light for it. So the finished B25 has now replaced it, it has a lower seat height and is a lot easier to kick, so looking forward to some fun on the trails with that one, however will be a shame to get the new paintwork dirty. The little SL125 is just for a bit of fun, l was going to keep it standard but l have just bought a 150cc barrel for it but l will have to machine the piston crown and valve pockets to get it to fit, so it will be an interesting project. Regards, Brian

Luckily the crankpin and conrod have survived, so don't need to split the bottom end.

Thanks for your positive comments, Regards, Brian.

The engine is coming out today, hopefully the bottom end is OK.

Thanks for the positive comments. Regards, Brian.

Hi, Where we are in Cornwall we are very limited in getting any paintwork done, even car repairs without driving a long way, so you end up doing as much as you can by yourself. Regards Brian

Hi, Thanks for your positive response, I normally just enjoy the spanners and hammers work and I don't mind painting/spraying the frames, but I try to avoid doing the tanks and side panels, however I have to say I enjoyed doing the tank work on this one and the spraying. I bought a Tiger Cub project a few years ago, it was fully stripped in bits, but the main reason I bought it was the tank and mudguards had already been professionally sprayed and I only had the mechanical work to do. Same with the B50 as it has an alloy tank and you are only doing small strips of paint and vinyl decals. Regards, Brian.

@@TheCADengineer I understand that one, in the past I have had my local car garage spray mine B44 and B50 really reasonable. I am due to retire shortly and your VLOGS are encouraging to have a go. I watched the rebuild on your B50 with interest. Keep up the good work. Regards, Geoff.

Hi, thanks for the positive remarks. The basecoat blue is Renault Bleu Majorelle Blue from the ebay link below: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145785564057?var=444879798501 which is just an acrylic aerosol The clearcoat is a 2 pack 2K aerosol also from ebay as per the link below: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404746236738 On the next video I use the chrome look silver for the tank side panels which is just a plain acrylic Hycote branded aerosol called Chrome from my local motor factors. There is more detail on the paint finishing on the next video which I will be uploading to the channel in the next hour or so. Regards, Brian.

Hi, thanks for the positive response, l will put a short video up of the finishing spray job. Regards Brian

@@shanetr86 Hi, l wouldn’t order anything until you open it up and have a look as they are renown for clutch drag. Just remove the primary case and strip out the plates, wash all the old oil off the the friction and plain plates with some petrol or solvent, then ruff up the plain steel plates with some course production sand paper. Assembly them back dry and adjust up the 3 pressure springs, test by kicking it over with the clutch lever pulled in and it should be disengage easily. The oil is only there to lubricate the chain. Dependant on the year will determine what oil goes back in as the later T100’s (post 1969 dependant on serial number) share the oil from the engine, earlier versions like my 1968 the oil in the primary case is separate to the engine. ATF (automatic transmission fluid) works well and it only takes a small amount in the bottom of the case (check the manual) and don’t over fill. They all seem to suffer with clutch drag even if they have only been standing for a week or so, they recommend kicking the bike over with the clutch pulled a couple of times the free it off before starting otherwise you struggle to get it into gear. Hope you get it sorted. Regards Brian

Hi, thanks for the positive comments, good look with the Bonnie tank rack. Regards Brian

Hi, Thanks for the positive response. Regards, Brian.

Hi, Thanks for the nice comment. Regards, Brian.

Sound OK, but I like the idea of having them easily removable plus like the challenge. Regards, Brian.