The aliens in your welds may come from the point at which the tube starts to become sealed air tight.The hot air must escape. If this ever happens it may help to drill a small hole and pop a tack on it at the last moment. Your Welds look just fine.
Hello from Russia, StPetersburg. Your new project with a big ship is quite interesting as "do it yourself" show. It shows Your skills and accurate attitude in metal works and welding. Nice hobby and great accuracy in handling with new instruments. At the same time, the final purpose and engineering brilliant idea are not very clear. What do You want to get? At the same time, there is vide variety of ideas: A) Floating barge for a long travelling through Europe channel system in slow mode B) Cargo platform for some other vehicle and a living space C) River tram for tourists for 1-2 hours trips or a river ferryboat from one bank to another D) Boathouse (flat on water), which moves from one parking place to another just few times a year E) Workshop, self-moving dock item and pierce for smaller boats F) Ship with some ecological purpose or with ancient design G)Maybe restaurant, moving bar, club, historical museum, etc.? Would You keep it for yourself or will also sell the final result? Why do You put such modest vehicles on such massive boat? Why not inboard machinery? Why You make a huge metal construction, but put a wooden plates and thin connecting for the vehicles? Do You wish them to separate from the boat in some accident case? Would You dare to get some certificate for the ship and to go with this boat to the seashore zone? If You would explain the expected result, the project seems to be more attracting.
If you ever need to pull the motors on to the deck for any reason, consider the space you would need to set them and work on them and perhaps some kind of mobile cradles you could set them securely on.
I am watching anxiously as you construct this barge to your liking...curious as to how it will turn out, and what this boat will be used for. Fantastic job, so far.
I am enjoying watching your progress. Great job. I have a question about the height of the helm. In your areas of planned travel, are there any overhangs (bridges, tunnels etc.) that might cause problems?
The engine mounting boards are partially underwater and will create tremendous drag. Water will hit the boards and flow over the top, possibly drowning the engines. There needs to be horizontal bottom plates from the engine mounting board to the bottom of the boat hull to reduce the drag. If you fill in the sides as well then you will have created an "engine well" which is standard on outboard powered boats. An engine bracket offset well aft of the transom only works on high speed planing hulls
Looking good. I like where you're going with this. My only thought would be to consider moving you helm to the front. ( bow) so your not looking over your living space. It also helps in navigation as you're moving forward you don't loose depth and perception of other vessels within your proximity. Just a thought.
It's interesting watching and trying to see your vision for the build. The only thing to add to the helm structure would be some diagonal bracing, as right now, it has very little lateral strength.
If you make both engines turn independently off each other, you will be able to take full advantage of having 2 engines on a big ship! Maybe something for the future?
You are pushing your molten puddle, and getting poor, uneven welds, and then, you switch to dragging the puddle, and getting nice even, smooth welds. Only push the puddle upwards when vertical welding, the arc will help keep the puddle in place long enough for the bead underneath to harden, and prevent dripping. Hope this helps.
I applaud anybody willing to work outside in the winter especially welding. For a beginner you are doing exceptionally well. You did much better with your stick technique. But it looks like you learn to weld with a mig from watching videos from India. I would employ you to improve your mig technique. Starting and stopping constantly is OK for welding sheet-metal or filling holes but for structural welds you need continuous beads.
When you create something rectangular or square, make sure you also measure diagonally. Both measurements should be the same. Perhaps give the helm some slope towards the steering wheel so the gauges aren better to read. For stick welding keep as close to the welding with your helmet as possible and watch your puddle closely. Clean always the area where your ground clamp is connecting with a grinder.
that truster in front of the boat you should try and make it more aerodynamic having that side ways tube under there is going to make a butt load of drag that will slow your boat down
First off I love your determination and effort. Now for the welding. First there are a few reasons for porosity in a weld. Like mentioned gasses building up in the piece you are working on and can cause it and like already stated a small bleed hole will solve that. Also the shielding gas being disrupted either by excessive wind or pulling back the torch from the weld to far. Those are easily solved by a small wind block and more torch control. Now to the welds themselves you have to stop doing those youtube cold welds I know it looks cool but can fail easily. one controlled weld bead with proper heat and wire speed will be much stronger also the lack of splater is not a good thing when mig welding it shows your wire speed is to slow. Also you can tell the welds have no build up of material hence the youtube cold welds then grinding them flush weakens them more where as a good solid bead gives much better penetration so if you have to grind them down there is still a fairly good bond. I hope this helps I have been doing it for over thirty years and always learning. So keep up with the nice boat build and wish you good luck and times.
Excellent work, In the future you can convert to a small inboard diesel, as finances improve. Then you can economically cruise the European canal system, for low expenses. Best wishes from Northern Canada.
Always fun to watch! Are you thinking of changing the position of the stern cleats? Do you have any sort of Airdraught restrictions on the channels you plan to sail? Great content and atitude to Building/DIY keep up the great work!!!
I must admit. I felt a bit of a shock in your outro with you featuring my ship in the facebook community. Anyways. Do keep up your good work! And if you ever happen to find yourself near the dutch border, give me a ping. It would be nice to share some stories over a cup of coffee/tea/beer ;)
Get yourself some flux core welding wire. It does not require gas and therefore is the go to solution for mig-welding in windy conditions. It's also more aggressive than regular wire and has an easier time welding thru paint and dirty metal.
First: With every video you are mastering welding more and more. Second: Will the helm platform be enclosed making it into helm house? Is there going to be a redundancy in controls? Much needed for docking.
Wonderful project. How about the future CE certification before bringing it on the waterways, are you building conform the regulations, or how are you planning to apply for it ?
It looks neat! =) You want some cross support for the legs to prevent wind or waves pushing the platform over ... altrough the steel is plenty strong with the long leaver it will easily rip it out of the floor if left like that. A laser level might be able to help you to have them more inline with each other.
Nice work! The triangles are called Gussets. The gussets definitely add strength to the corners! Thanks for taking time to share your journey. That helm will get you up off the water considerably, you will easily be able to see where you are going!
Keep the nozzle of the MIG welder close to the weld area and use a continuous weld instead of spotting it in and that should resolve the issue of aliens growing out of your weld. Also, the barge is looking great. Looks like a fun build.
@@downhillz1832 Either way, spot welding is not a proper way to weld metal of that thickness, There is not enough penetration and the metal is not getting hot enough to produce a strong weld. Agree that FLUX core is the only real option for welding outside in anything but still conditions. You get slag, but at least it will be a proper weld.
@@pablomax3045 Flux core is not the ONLY option, electrodes working as well great. It was more related to the skills and experience, because he made some from his MIG welding. Fluxed core is near equal. Not so clean, but the technique is the same. Fully agree that spot welding has not the full penetration. If it has nothing to hold, then it’s ok. For thin material also ok, but it’s not a real correct weld.
I would be interested to see a plan of your build on the big boat, I take it you will have a set of steps / ladder to your helm position. You are making good progress, slowly but surely
I know nothing about the strength of steel and welds but I know I would be putting in a bit more triangulation for rigidity...even if just needed for peace of mind. I would be concerned at rhe structure shearing. Do the propellers on the outboards have a fine enough pitch for the bulk and mass they are to propel? Great fun to watch.
The first thing I'm thinking as I watch you prepare the helm station... I think what is the height of the lowest bridge at high tide?? You will need to traverse in your boating travel's... When my Pop built a small tug he for got to think about the height of the bridges near by us ... He literally had to truck the tug past the 1st bridge... Cuz the tug was a few meters too tall!! Oh the drama it's one of historic proportions 🤣😂🤣😂!!! Pappy over came ✌🏼💗😊⛵
I see you didn't attach the helm structure permanently yet, but I wonder if you checked where the legs touch the deck; is there frame members underneath? If not, you may want to add strengthening below, or put pads on the legs to spread the load. Your welds are looking better all the time! 😉
like what you're doing, you can add access for adding fluid film to your new helm internals to help prevent rust and fill holes with a rubber plug for additional use later keep up the good work.
You are doing a great job with limited tools.Your welding will improve with time i find it an art you have to practise to get better.You mite get torque steer do to both propellers turning the same way.All the best from UK.👍
seems like you building it a little tall (heavy too when i look at the size and thickness of the profiles youre using) , it might not end up being verry stable and catch a lot of wind making it drift all over the place , it allso might not have a lot of height from the deck to the waterline with all the extra weight sitting on it you have a lot of unused space below the deck of the boat and you could make a "tub" about 80 to 100 cm lower than the surrounding deck wish would mean the total height above the deck and the waterline would be lower as well while still keeping a 2.25 meter height floor to ceiling (though i think 2.00 to 2.10 wouldve been plenty for a tall person ) , could use the piece you cut out of the deck as the cabin floor (including the support structure below the deck though you do need standoffs to weld the top part to the lower structure of the hull and connect it back up to the gangway part of the deck thats left at the original height ) and you allready wouldve needed the metal for the sides of the tub as you where planning the amount to make the walls for the cabin above the deck ,the walls now sinks partways intoo the boat would change the look fro this cdn.openbms-images.com/images/121/194634/cropped=true/height=240/pos_y=middle/quality=80/width=400/Budgetboot-grachtenboot-boot_zu_verkaufen-bateau_a_vendre-boat-forsale-boot-tekoop-bootveiling.com4.jpeg to this : foto.inautia.nl/barcosOcasion/4/4/8/3/praam-14-23697080170265495157684852514567x.jpg would mean the steering house can be made lower as well (think standing behind the rudderwheel up above the roof of the cabin from about the shoulders should be enough to see around the boat it might help fitting said boat under some low bridges )
Your Aliens that appear out of your welds, when welding the tubes is due to the air inside the tube heating up as you weld, then when you come to the closing weld, the heat air expands and try to escape out of a ever decreasing hole size. a fix is to leave a small gap until the area has cooled down, then weld the gap, this should help you with this issue. sorry this advise is coming a bit late for this job.
I had to laugh when you were questioning if the helm frame was strong enough to hold you. Your helm platform is built like a tank. I would like to suggest adding some mid bracing (at least one) on the side legs of the helm platform. You do excellent work and your welding has really improved. Nice job. Enjoying the channel. Tks for sharing.
😁Nice job looks awesome. Ya weldings fine for what you are doing. Yeah a Bump bar behind the outboards might be a good idea a s we know how many good Boaters are out there. Keep at it and carry on. 😁🤔😎😷 Like the way ya thinking.😬😎
Hi, you may want to make sure that you installed High Trust propellers on both outboards. You will need all the trust you can get, including in reverse, to push this heavy vessel. Keep posting.
USE ANGLES ON THE TOP AND SIDES CLAMP TO AJUST HOLES IT ALL STRAIT DO THE SAME OTHER SIDE MEASURE BOTTOM THEN AJUST TOP. SAME ON THE SIDE WILL SAVE YOU AL KINDS OF TIME
Another beautiful work ...let me extend a very merry Christmas to you and your love ones ...stay warm guys and I know there will be more videos to come...hehehe
Do you know about flux core wire? It is a little bit messier, because as you weld , it splatters small bits of metal outward that you have to grind off, but it is just as sound structurally, and you can weld in the wind without the problems associated with using gas. The splatter comes off fairly easily, with a sanding disk on a grinder.
@6:57 you know why this happens? While welding the atmosphere inside the tube gets sealed up and air wants to expand when it gets hot. If there is no drainage-hole or egalisazion-opening the air will move through the last welds you are going to do... Just have a look at the regulations for dip-zinqing (Feuerverzinken if you are German) you need to think about not creating separate athomspehric chambers... Make 2 small holes on opposite ends (5mm or so) you can rig weld them afterwards if you want to...
Ahh and please if you start welding inside the barge please have a friend outside who checks on you regularly... And do yourself the favor of using a separated breathing air supply while working inside... And have a ventilation happening (enough exchange of air inside the hollow structure) otherwise you might kill yourself either with intoxication, explosion or oxygen deprivation
That was a great video, although I must be honest I don't like heights so seeing you on to of the platform that wasn't secured to the deck had me quite anxious 🤣🤣🤣
Granted I'm not a ship designer but I'm thinking the helm look and function better over the bow. But I'm thinking that your placement was due to the control cables, wires and hoses length. I have a whole drawing at home of my dream houseboat which reflects the helm forward. But one difference is mine has an inboard truck engine. The engine requires very little control interface
Regarding the amount for the helm. Seems like it would have been a lot easier to have one large plate welded to the two vertical bars. Or two smaller plates welded horizontally to the two vertical bars. I think it would have looked better and been a lot easier. Kind of went out of your way to make it look difficult.
The only suggestion I have is to offset the steering to have direct access to the helm from inside the living quarters. Unless you have already planned for that. You could enclose the entire helm to stay out of the weather. Other than that great job!
The aliens that you were referring to for the welding is caused by the wind or air blowing the gas away from the nozzle and not allowing it to surround the weld so basically air got in there and contaminated it that usually happens on a Gusty day and you're trying to weld and you can always try the magnet ground for the welding machine they work really well keep up the good work
Moin, interessantes Projekt, aber ich würde nicht so stark in die Höhe bauen bzw. die Möglichkeit haben wollen das Ruderhaus/den Fahrstand absenkbar konstruieren. Es wäre wirklich schade auf Grund von zu geringen Brückendurchfahrtshöhen eingeschränkt zu sein. Und Brücken hast du in Bln ja reichlich. Weiterhin viel Erfolg.
I can't see that bow thruster doing much for a boat that size. Better than nothing I guess. It looks like you can fit larger props on those outboards. Would give you more control.
I don't think looking at the welding in action is harmful to my eyes but if you would shield the camera from the bright light it would make the video more enjoyable. Thanks.
Aren't tranches will 1)break movement being flat plates perpendecular to movement, and 2)make boat tail to dive while on the go because of backward vertical angle?
Ich finde das Projekt super und hoffe, dass ich etwas konstruktive "Kritik" üben darf?! Um die Rechtwinkligkeit Deines Bauteils zuverlässig zu Messen, solltest Du die Diagonale messen. Stimmen beide Entfernungen überein, ist es im Winkel, das ist genauer. Alternativ ginge auch das 3-4-5 Prinzip. Mach an einer Seite eine Markierung bei 30cm an der dazu winkeligen Seite eine Markierung bei 40 cm! Wenn Du diese beiden Punkte an den Außenkanten miteinander verbindest, sollte das Maß 50cm betragen. Auch dann bist Du im Winkel! Die Verschweißungen solltest Du idealerweise als durchgehende Naht in stechender weise schweißen, weil Du nur so genug Temperatur ins Materiel bekommst! Die Punktverschweißungen haben eine sehr viel geringere Haltbarkeit. Es wäre zudem auch gut, wenn Du die Zunderschicht (an der Stelle, wo Du die Masseklemme anbringst) entfernst, damit Du einen deutlich besseren Masseschluss hast! Wegen des Wetters und der leichteren Handhabung würde Ich Dir das Fülldrahtschweißen ans Herz legen. Das Funktioniert vom Prinzip her wie das Elektrodenschweissen- Nur ohne die lästige Wechselei der Elektroden.
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The aliens in your welds may come from the point at which the tube starts to become sealed air tight.The hot air must escape. If this ever happens it may help to drill a small hole and pop a tack on it at the last moment. Your Welds look just fine.
or a puff of wind came in from the outside and blew the gas away.
I’ve had the exact thing happen to me. It’s like a vent hole being pushed out by the newly heated air.
Welds look fine ? 😂😅🤣 . Been welding 40 years and never seen such crap . Porosity all over and blob spotting box section 🤣😅😂
These are horrible welds. The multiple spot welds is not structural. He needs to learn how to run a bead.
Hello from Russia, StPetersburg. Your new project with a big ship is quite interesting as "do it yourself" show. It shows Your skills and accurate attitude in metal works and welding. Nice hobby and great accuracy in handling with new instruments.
At the same time, the final purpose and engineering brilliant idea are not very clear. What do You want to get?
At the same time, there is vide variety of ideas:
A) Floating barge for a long travelling through Europe channel system in slow mode
B) Cargo platform for some other vehicle and a living space
C) River tram for tourists for 1-2 hours trips or a river ferryboat from one bank to another
D) Boathouse (flat on water), which moves from one parking place to another just few times a year
E) Workshop, self-moving dock item and pierce for smaller boats
F) Ship with some ecological purpose or with ancient design
G)Maybe restaurant, moving bar, club, historical museum,
etc.?
Would You keep it for yourself or will also sell the final result?
Why do You put such modest vehicles on such massive boat? Why not inboard machinery? Why You make a huge metal construction, but put a wooden plates and thin connecting for the vehicles? Do You wish them to separate from the boat in some accident case?
Would You dare to get some certificate for the ship and to go with this boat to the seashore zone?
If You would explain the expected result, the project seems to be more attracting.
If you ever need to pull the motors on to the deck for any reason, consider the space you would need to set them and work on them and perhaps some kind of mobile cradles you could set them securely on.
Very nice job! Maybe you can make the helmstation so, that you can put it down for under de bridges to pased them. Grtz. From the Netherlands
I am watching anxiously as you construct this barge to your liking...curious as to how it will turn out, and what this boat will be used for. Fantastic job, so far.
Party boat?
@@michelrood2966 maybe house boat nr2?
@@SeanABinar meh
I am enjoying watching your progress. Great job. I have a question about the height of the helm. In your areas of planned travel, are there any overhangs (bridges, tunnels etc.) that might cause problems?
as others have mentioned - hot gas blowback or weld contamination. there are times when you hit a spot with impurities in the steel itself.
Ich schau mir Deine Stahl Arbeiten so gerne an, es ist spannend zu sehen wie es weitergeht, und gleichzeitig Genuss Dir beim Schaffen zuzusehen! 👌👍👍😊
Hey!!!
The engine mounting boards are partially underwater and will create tremendous drag. Water will hit the boards and flow over the top, possibly drowning the engines. There needs to be horizontal bottom plates from the engine mounting board to the bottom of the boat hull to reduce the drag. If you fill in the sides as well then you will have created an "engine well" which is standard on outboard powered boats.
An engine bracket offset well aft of the transom only works on high speed planing hulls
Looking good.
I like where you're going with this.
My only thought would be to consider moving you helm to the front. ( bow) so your not looking over your living space.
It also helps in navigation as you're moving forward you don't loose depth and perception of other vessels within your proximity.
Just a thought.
It's interesting watching and trying to see your vision for the build. The only thing to add to the helm structure would be some diagonal bracing, as right now, it has very little lateral strength.
Your welds are getting much better... Good Work
Your welding has improved, quite a lot!
FYI, the triangle pieces you put in are known as gussets. Love what you're doing.
If you make both engines turn independently off each other, you will be able to take full advantage of having 2 engines on a big ship! Maybe something for the future?
You are pushing your molten puddle, and getting poor, uneven welds, and then, you switch to dragging the puddle, and getting nice even, smooth welds. Only push the puddle upwards when vertical welding, the arc will help keep the puddle in place long enough for the bead underneath to harden, and prevent dripping. Hope this helps.
I applaud anybody willing to work outside in the winter especially welding. For a beginner you are doing exceptionally well. You did much better with your stick technique. But it looks like you learn to weld with a mig from watching videos from India. I would employ you to improve your mig technique. Starting and stopping constantly is OK for welding sheet-metal or filling holes but for structural welds you need continuous beads.
Thanks again boss keep up your great work 🙏🇯🇲
When you create something rectangular or square, make sure you also measure diagonally. Both measurements should be the same. Perhaps give the helm some slope towards the steering wheel so the gauges aren better to read. For stick welding keep as close to the welding with your helmet as possible and watch your puddle closely. Clean always the area where your ground clamp is connecting with a grinder.
This thing is going to be epic.
Your welding has improved week by week, nice job
that truster in front of the boat you should try and make it more aerodynamic having that side ways tube under there is going to make a butt load of drag that will slow your boat down
First off I love your determination and effort. Now for the welding. First there are a few reasons for porosity in a weld. Like mentioned gasses building up in the piece you are working on and can cause it and like already stated a small bleed hole will solve that. Also the shielding gas being disrupted either by excessive wind or pulling back the torch from the weld to far. Those are easily solved by a small wind block and more torch control. Now to the welds themselves you have to stop doing those youtube cold welds I know it looks cool but can fail easily. one controlled weld bead with proper heat and wire speed will be much stronger also the lack of splater is not a good thing when mig welding it shows your wire speed is to slow. Also you can tell the welds have no build up of material hence the youtube cold welds then grinding them flush weakens them more where as a good solid bead gives much better penetration so if you have to grind them down there is still a fairly good bond. I hope this helps I have been doing it for over thirty years and always learning. So keep up with the nice boat build and wish you good luck and times.
Excellent work, In the future you can convert to a small inboard diesel, as finances improve. Then you can economically cruise the European canal system, for low expenses.
Best wishes from Northern Canada.
Always fun to watch!
Are you thinking of changing the position of the stern cleats?
Do you have any sort of Airdraught restrictions on the channels you plan to sail?
Great content and atitude to Building/DIY keep up the great work!!!
I must admit.
I felt a bit of a shock in your outro with you featuring my ship in the facebook community.
Anyways. Do keep up your good work! And if you ever happen to find yourself near the dutch border, give me a ping.
It would be nice to share some stories over a cup of coffee/tea/beer ;)
Get yourself some flux core welding wire. It does not require gas and therefore is the go to solution for mig-welding in windy conditions. It's also more aggressive than regular wire and has an easier time welding thru paint and dirty metal.
First: With every video you are mastering welding more and more. Second: Will the helm platform be enclosed making it into helm house? Is there going to be a redundancy in controls? Much needed for docking.
Wonderful project. How about the future CE certification before bringing it on the waterways, are you building conform the regulations, or how are you planning to apply for it ?
It looks neat! =) You want some cross support for the legs to prevent wind or waves pushing the platform over ... altrough the steel is plenty strong with the long leaver it will easily rip it out of the floor if left like that. A laser level might be able to help you to have them more inline with each other.
Fantastic designs, workmanship and so very entertaining!!!
Nice work! The triangles are called Gussets. The gussets definitely add strength to the corners! Thanks for taking time to share your journey. That helm will get you up off the water considerably, you will easily be able to see where you are going!
Keep the nozzle of the MIG welder close to the weld area and use a continuous weld instead of spotting it in and that should resolve the issue of aliens growing out of your weld.
Also, the barge is looking great. Looks like a fun build.
Why not using a flux cored wire without gas when you weld outside? Much easier then welding electrodes.
@@downhillz1832 Either way, spot welding is not a proper way to weld metal of that thickness, There is not enough penetration and the metal is not getting hot enough to produce a strong weld.
Agree that FLUX core is the only real option for welding outside in anything but still conditions. You get slag, but at least it will be a proper weld.
@@pablomax3045 Flux core is not the ONLY option, electrodes working as well great. It was more related to the skills and experience, because he made some from his MIG welding. Fluxed core is near equal. Not so clean, but the technique is the same. Fully agree that spot welding has not the full penetration. If it has nothing to hold, then it’s ok. For thin material also ok, but it’s not a real correct weld.
You need to drill a pin hole in the box section. gases get trapped and you will get a blow back on the welds.
Such industry! Great work, fun video.
Your welds are getting much better- You can really see the progression of your skills from the beginning!
another great sound track and commentary
It will be there forever, impressed by your aquired skills. One can learn everything if you set your mind to it!
Great Job MFB on welding the frame for the Helm. looks good..
I would be interested to see a plan of your build on the big boat, I take it you will have a set of steps / ladder to your helm position.
You are making good progress, slowly but surely
mig weld with core wire works well outside
I know nothing about the strength of steel and welds but I know I would be putting in a bit more triangulation for rigidity...even if just needed for peace of mind. I would be concerned at rhe structure shearing. Do the propellers on the outboards have a fine enough pitch for the bulk and mass they are to propel? Great fun to watch.
Perhaps and auxiliary helm station at the bow will give some added utility for tight maneuvers.
10/10 for the edit, soundtrack and video in general. Really enjoyed this, keep the videos coming.. !
your welding and metal working skills have become great since you first started the channel!!!! I'm looking forward to following with this project.
The first thing I'm thinking as I watch you prepare the helm station... I think what is the height of the lowest bridge at high tide?? You will need to traverse in your boating travel's... When my Pop built a small tug he for got to think about the height of the bridges near by us ... He literally had to truck the tug past the 1st bridge... Cuz the tug was a few meters too tall!! Oh the drama it's one of historic proportions 🤣😂🤣😂!!! Pappy over came ✌🏼💗😊⛵
Thanks for sharing the journey. Looking forward to seeing more.
Very impressive! Your fabrication skills have improved so much since the beginning of your projects :) Great job
Always a treat to see your uploads ✌️
I see you didn't attach the helm structure permanently yet, but I wonder if you checked where the legs touch the deck; is there frame members underneath? If not, you may want to add strengthening below, or put pads on the legs to spread the load. Your welds are looking better all the time! 😉
Thats a very thick steel deck, absolutely no problem the way he did it.
I came here for the organ music. Nice boat by the way.
Flux Core is your friend in these weather conditions and easier than stick for spot welds.
Good job! I notice you have the twin outboard motors and Please check your outboard motors propeller. Keep up good work and stay healthy!
like what you're doing, you can add access for adding fluid film to your new helm internals to help prevent rust and fill holes with a rubber plug for additional use later keep up the good work.
USE A ANGLE ACROSS THE TOP AND SIDE DO THE SAME ON OTHER SIDE MEASUER TOP AND BOTTEM HOLDS IT ALL STRAIT AND SAVES YOU TONS OF TIME
Using 7018 rod? Once you get the machine set up it welds very nice, very easy.
You are doing a great job with limited tools.Your welding will improve with time i find it an art you have to practise to get better.You mite get torque steer do to both propellers turning the same way.All the best from UK.👍
seems like you building it a little tall (heavy too when i look at the size and thickness of the profiles youre using) , it might not end up being verry stable and catch a lot of wind making it drift all over the place , it allso might not have a lot of height from the deck to the waterline with all the extra weight sitting on it
you have a lot of unused space below the deck of the boat and you could make a "tub" about 80 to 100 cm lower than the surrounding deck wish would mean the total height above the deck and the waterline would be lower as well while still keeping a 2.25 meter height floor to ceiling (though i think 2.00 to 2.10 wouldve been plenty for a tall person ) , could use the piece you cut out of the deck as the cabin floor (including the support structure below the deck though you do need standoffs to weld the top part to the lower structure of the hull and connect it back up to the gangway part of the deck thats left at the original height ) and you allready wouldve needed the metal for the sides of the tub as you where planning the amount to make the walls for the cabin above the deck ,the walls now sinks partways intoo the boat
would change the look fro this
cdn.openbms-images.com/images/121/194634/cropped=true/height=240/pos_y=middle/quality=80/width=400/Budgetboot-grachtenboot-boot_zu_verkaufen-bateau_a_vendre-boat-forsale-boot-tekoop-bootveiling.com4.jpeg
to this :
foto.inautia.nl/barcosOcasion/4/4/8/3/praam-14-23697080170265495157684852514567x.jpg
would mean the steering house can be made lower as well (think standing behind the rudderwheel up above the roof of the cabin from about the shoulders should be enough to see around the boat it might help fitting said boat under some low bridges )
Well done…nice welding…look forward to watching the project come together…stay safe…
Your Aliens that appear out of your welds, when welding the tubes is due to the air inside the tube heating up as you weld, then when you come to the closing weld, the heat air expands and try to escape out of a ever decreasing hole size. a fix is to leave a small gap until the area has cooled down, then weld the gap, this should help you with this issue. sorry this advise is coming a bit late for this job.
coolest dude on youtube
Wow man,
You started to be a star in welding plus it’s good for me me to learn you’re making a party boat. Lots of success with this project
I had to laugh when you were questioning if the helm frame was strong enough to hold you. Your helm platform is built like a tank. I would like to suggest adding some mid bracing (at least one) on the side legs of the helm platform. You do excellent work and your welding has really improved. Nice job. Enjoying the channel. Tks for sharing.
triangles are called gussets. Nice work!.
Think about using a Flux Core Electrode in the Mig Welder. That will avoid swapping machines and allow you to use the MiG welder in a windy area.
You should tack weld the outside first just so when steel cools it’s easier to pull it in
Absolut krasse Konstruktion! Ich bin schon sehr gespannt, wie es weiter geht. Super Arbeit!
Bro is amazing idk how the whole world isn’t watching this 😂
At first I thought you were crazy but I'm starting to see where your going with the boat it's going to look nice when you get it done.
Cross bracings on the four legs of the construction perhaps?
😁Nice job looks awesome. Ya weldings fine for what you are doing. Yeah a Bump bar behind the outboards might be a good idea a s we know how many good Boaters are out there. Keep at it and carry on. 😁🤔😎😷 Like the way ya thinking.😬😎
You check that you can clear the bridges?
Nice work.
To look to his vlogs ,it’s same like yoga for your brain,very relaxed to look👍
Hi, you may want to make sure that you installed High Trust propellers on both outboards. You will need all the trust you can get, including in reverse, to push this heavy vessel. Keep posting.
Your welding has improved a lot great job!!
USE ANGLES ON THE TOP AND SIDES CLAMP TO AJUST HOLES IT ALL STRAIT DO THE SAME OTHER SIDE MEASURE BOTTOM THEN AJUST TOP. SAME ON THE SIDE WILL SAVE YOU AL KINDS OF TIME
Lets just face facts…. Your welding has improved astronomically!😂🤣😉 (your tig NOT your stick welding😂)
Another beautiful work ...let me extend a very merry Christmas to you and your love ones ...stay warm guys and I know there will be more videos to come...hehehe
Where you tack-welded the uprights and the brace pieces with stick welds, you should go back and lay in full welds.
Do you know about flux core wire? It is a little bit messier, because as you weld , it splatters small bits of metal outward that you have to grind off, but it is just as sound structurally, and you can weld in the wind without the problems associated with using gas. The splatter comes off fairly easily, with a sanding disk on a grinder.
When designing the living area did you ever think about lowering the height into hull as the centre of gravity would be low and more stable.
I'm sure you don't need any more side projects, but it looks more and more like you could use a larger crane to lift things onto the deck!
Hi nimm doch Fülldraht für draussen, bzw bei Wind. Dann brauchst kein Zelt oder E-Schweißen.👍
Very nice! Look forward to seeing it launched.
@6:57 you know why this happens? While welding the atmosphere inside the tube gets sealed up and air wants to expand when it gets hot. If there is no drainage-hole or egalisazion-opening the air will move through the last welds you are going to do... Just have a look at the regulations for dip-zinqing (Feuerverzinken if you are German) you need to think about not creating separate athomspehric chambers... Make 2 small holes on opposite ends (5mm or so) you can rig weld them afterwards if you want to...
Ahh and please if you start welding inside the barge please have a friend outside who checks on you regularly... And do yourself the favor of using a separated breathing air supply while working inside... And have a ventilation happening (enough exchange of air inside the hollow structure) otherwise you might kill yourself either with intoxication, explosion or oxygen deprivation
That was a great video,
although I must be honest I don't like heights so seeing you on to of the platform that wasn't secured to the deck had me quite anxious 🤣🤣🤣
Granted I'm not a ship designer but I'm thinking the helm look and function better over the bow. But I'm thinking that your placement was due to the control cables, wires and hoses length. I have a whole drawing at home of my dream houseboat which reflects the helm forward. But one difference is mine has an inboard truck engine. The engine requires very little control interface
Regarding the amount for the helm. Seems like it would have been a lot easier to have one large plate welded to the two vertical bars. Or two smaller plates welded horizontally to the two vertical bars. I think it would have looked better and been a lot easier. Kind of went out of your way to make it look difficult.
Coming along nicely. Looking forward to the Finnish.
The only suggestion I have is to offset the steering to have direct access to the helm from inside the living quarters. Unless you have already planned for that. You could enclose the entire helm to stay out of the weather. Other than that great job!
The aliens that you were referring to for the welding is caused by the wind or air blowing the gas away from the nozzle and not allowing it to surround the weld so basically air got in there and contaminated it that usually happens on a Gusty day and you're trying to weld and you can always try the magnet ground for the welding machine they work really well keep up the good work
Nice job m8, ya doin well!
Nice welding
Moin, interessantes Projekt, aber ich würde nicht so stark in die Höhe bauen bzw. die Möglichkeit haben wollen das Ruderhaus/den Fahrstand absenkbar konstruieren. Es wäre wirklich schade auf Grund von zu geringen Brückendurchfahrtshöhen eingeschränkt zu sein. Und Brücken hast du in Bln ja reichlich. Weiterhin viel Erfolg.
What about passing fixed Bridges with a certain height. Enough for normal yachts.
I can't see that bow thruster doing much for a boat that size. Better than nothing I guess. It looks like you can fit larger props on those outboards. Would give you more control.
I don't think looking at the welding in action is harmful to my eyes but if you would shield the camera from the bright light it would make the video more enjoyable. Thanks.
Aren't tranches will 1)break movement being flat plates perpendecular to movement, and 2)make boat tail to dive while on the go because of backward vertical angle?
Ich finde das Projekt super und hoffe, dass ich etwas konstruktive "Kritik" üben darf?!
Um die Rechtwinkligkeit Deines Bauteils zuverlässig zu Messen, solltest Du die Diagonale messen.
Stimmen beide Entfernungen überein, ist es im Winkel, das ist genauer.
Alternativ ginge auch das 3-4-5 Prinzip.
Mach an einer Seite eine Markierung bei 30cm an der dazu winkeligen Seite eine Markierung bei 40 cm!
Wenn Du diese beiden Punkte an den Außenkanten miteinander verbindest, sollte das Maß 50cm betragen. Auch dann bist Du im Winkel!
Die Verschweißungen solltest Du idealerweise als durchgehende Naht in stechender weise schweißen, weil Du nur so genug Temperatur ins Materiel bekommst! Die Punktverschweißungen haben eine sehr viel geringere Haltbarkeit.
Es wäre zudem auch gut, wenn Du die Zunderschicht (an der Stelle, wo Du die Masseklemme anbringst) entfernst, damit Du einen deutlich besseren Masseschluss hast!
Wegen des Wetters und der leichteren Handhabung würde Ich Dir das Fülldrahtschweißen ans Herz legen. Das Funktioniert vom Prinzip her wie das Elektrodenschweissen- Nur ohne die lästige Wechselei der Elektroden.