225 RSW Custom Guitar P3 Bending Iron Build
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- After a failed attempt to build the sides for a custom guitar, I decided to build a bending iron to make the job easier.
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![How to Bend Guitar Sides [Bending Iron Full Process]](/img/n.gif)
It's almost an adventure. I'm going to next video. I couldn't do any of that to build a guitar especially with your skills. My late husband would enjoy your work a lot if he was stil here.
Thank you Jerry 👍🎶🎶🎶
Boy, some of your subscribers are so smart that I don't know why they watch your videos looking for pointers. I have nothing but admiration for the way you put things to the test. Sometimes you have to step outside the box and find your own method that works. Cheers Jerry....great video!
Being smart as hell, doesn't give you Jerry's ingenuity and masterful craftsmanship. He leaves most all of us way
behind in those areas, not to mention in experience. He leaves most all of us way behind in shear energy too, lol.
thank you . if you are having trouble with the part off tool on the lathe make sure you the tool is centard. too low the piece will climb too high it just rubs . use a 12 " scale ( ruler ) in between the tool and work piece bring the tool till it will hold it step back and look is the ruler scale straight ( up and down ) if so you are centered . oh set your self up with flood coolant big help. hope this helps
thank you hope that helped
You sir, are a modern-day Thomas Edison and/or Stradivari! Much admiration and respect for your talents!
Thank you Jerry for allowing us to see your process; always amusing to me to see all the suggestions that flow in like the sea whenever someone attempts anything on TH-cam. You’re TR’s man in the arena! Have a great day!
Hi A bit of black marker or a small label with black marker on it will allow you to get an accurate temperature from the pipe.
Southern Ingenuity at it's finest! 😁 Good job Mr. Jerry!
That rig is beautiful ! ! it's way nicer than store bought any day!
HI Jerry great content. In order to control the temperature properly you need to drill a hole it the aluminum and insert a thermistor as a temperature sensor. Then use some type of controller to vary the power to the heating element. I can help with the electronics if you are interested, contact me. However if the temperature only goes up to 240 with the variable speed controller you have, I think that's all you really need.
You can use a controller for a car cooling fan from advance Auto parts.they have one that has a themomitor probe you could put it up in it and it has a dial that you can set the temperature to what you want and it will shut on and off to control the temperature.i watch all your videos every day.i build guitars myself and videos like this are so helpful.thank you so much for what you do.i live 15 minutes from where A.P. Carter lived.im right next to Bristol and Virginia.thanks for your service to our community of builders
Jerry, this bending iron is fantastic! I made mine with steel pipe and a propane torch. Getting the temp just right on mine is always the tricky part. Yours will serve you well! Great project. I really like the table! A 90 degree to the iron is so accurate! Thanxz
I've used a pipe and torch method for 30 plus years with my mandolin. I've always boiled the guitar sides and press them in a press. But this time they broke. So I decided to build this tool. I think the tool will work even better for mandolin sides.
I probably should have watched the rest of the series... love your solution with the temperature controller.
That's a neat wood bending tool, I like your design.
Wow Jerry. Your tools are more elegant than my instruments. That thing is a work of art. I used a chunk of conduit pipe bolted to a board heated by a propane torch for my side bender. I'm really looking forward to seeing the guitar come together. Craftsmanship + enginuity. Well done.
Yes I use the propane torch and pipe method for years on mandolin sides. I thought it was time to upgrade.
You might like to consider a variable Thermostat or a fixed one. Just like Ironing device, it has a variable thermostats inside. Fixed thermostat will be easier to install when you knew exactly which degree you wanted.
Heater element will transfer heat better using a plaster thermal grease, it will transfer heat very nice and evenly on contact area.
Using a high temperature wire heat sleeve or tube will be wise to avoid cables melt on your heater.
Good luck on your project and googling parts that I meant to, I do really enjoying watching you working on things 😊👍🏻
Looking forward for your guitar build anyway 😄
Just a couple of comments Jerry. I worked as an engineer for Beloit Corporation for many years. They made many, many parts out or stainless steel. Stainless can be either harder or softer than mild steel depending on the grade. However; it is always harder to cut than mild steel. Like balsa in the woods, it likes to ball up and gaul rather than cut. I don't know the specifics, but one of the machinists told me that the cutting tools take a whole different cutting angle and clearance angle than a tool for steel. You might want to research that info and see if it will help you when you are cutting stainless. Also aluminum expands at a faster rate than stainless, so it will only get tighter when a piece of aluminum is inside of stainless as it heats up. If, however; you were to cool the rig, it would get looser. I think aluminum will be A-OK in this application.
Your build looks very professional and I love the formica base. I worked on plastic extruders for about 10 years also and thermoplastics begin to soften about 300 F and become liquid at about 400 F give or take a little depending on the particular plastic, so I think your 350 F in your replies to the comments is right on for wood.
I don't think you could buy a better wood bender than the one you've built. If you have any problems with it, I believe it will be the plaster of Paris. If you do I would suggest fireplace cement mixed a little wetter than usual. That's just a gut guess though. Like you when I'm building something that I have never built before, I throw out the rules and go by my gut. My gut as yours has, has served me very well in the past. In any case I love your ingenuity, your work and your five star video.
Thank you. So far it's working awesome. Once I turned up the heat on it and I got it up around 350f or so it bent the wood fairly easily.
Great job Jerry, I think you are going to iron out all the wrinkles in this bending bar and it will work just fine.I thoroughly enjoyed watching you build this bending bar, wow what a process. Peace and love from Bonny Scotland.
I used it to bend the sides and once I got it hot enough it worked great.
Jerry your lathe work scares me to death bud, I'm a retired time served turner and think it's great watching you get your required results. By the way your lathe is fine a wee project you might consider is adding a coolant system to it. We very rarely worked dry. Keep up the good work more power to you.
Hi Jerry
Glad I got to meet in person and play a little in Mt. Veiw.
I have a small lathe (atlas)
I couldn't get a parting tool to work very well because of flex in the tool post. I found that putting in back gear and running slow worked much better. Looking forward to more build videos 😄
This grizzly lathe doesn't have back gear. I do pretty good cutting off aluminum and sort of okay cutting off mild steel but the stainless steel it didn't even hardly scratch it.
I have no doubt you will have this working perfectly in no time. We are likely close to the same age and I admire your adventurousness, whereas I am still using the bending form I built in 1972, although I have upgraded my steam oven several times. Can't tell you how much I truly enjoy your videos and especially your approach to problem solving. Don't always agree but I do love watching how you get into and out of trouble. Brilliant! Here's a suggestion if you want to pay off that lovely farm. Market that fantastic thickness sander you made - crafters of all sorts will line up to buy one!!!! Besides, if you don't YOU KNOW WHO will just steal the design and slap their name on it.
Very nice build on that heater bender thingy
Love it!!!!!
I agree with boo boo, a simple steam box might help with the bending. Not steaming to noodle stage, but with more moisture and limber than you are getting with a squirt bottle. Fantastic project that, when you get the hang of it, should do a super job for you. Good video, Jerry.
I have built Steamers before and tried it and had very little success on building it bending guitar sides. I know people say it works but it's doesn't seem to work for me.
I think you did an excellent job Jerry! The only thing in the process I would have done differently is before pressing the aluminum inside the stainless pipe is that I think you could have put the aluminum piece in the freezer and the pipe in the oven and it may have slipped right in with no pressing. I do this on crankcase bearings all the time. But your method worked pretty good as well. Great video!!!
I've done it that way before and thought about it this time but that press just makes you lazy.
Yesss, I was waiting for this video. Super like 👍🏻
Awesome great video. I have seen videos they build a jig to hold the sides in place. That way both sides bend to the same perfect measurements. No guessing that way. But you have done an awesome job on your iron. I think it will work great. The more you do it. The better you will turn them out. Many thumbs up to you and this video. I hope you have a very Blessed Week.
I have those jigs also. And that's the way I've bent them for the last 30 plus years.
Man, that was really, really awesome!!
I'm in sorry I got lol
I got your neck
If the heating element fits loosely, computer thermal paste would help transfer the heat.
Have you tried? I think I will do it
I love watching this kind of stuff. It's very similar to the work I used to do. (industrial Maintenance) PS You kept me up past my bedtime. :-)
Jerry, Thank you so much for this vidieo, I have been trying too build a bender like yours for my first Ukulele build. I tried the pipe & torch but it seemed too get to hot I tried the light bulb & pipe but I couldn't get that hot enough. I was going too bite the bullet and buy Stew Macs bender but aim alot like you & I enjoy building things, I cant wait too build my bender Thank you again..
36.3C is right on the money, Jerry.
Next time you use a metal hole saw and you have already drilled a guide hole you might try using a 1/4" rod instead of a 1/4" drill bit in the hole saw. I use one to keep the hole saw bit from reaming the hole, it really helps on metal if you are drilling holes to make sure you are dead on the mark using a hand held drill motor.
That sounds like a great idea. I'll remember that one.
Thanks for the idea. In this particular case that wasn't the issue at all. It actually tracked very well.
Hi, Jerry. New subscriber here. I love your videos and the way you walk us through what you're doing. Thank you!
I'd like to drop a hint on using the Infrared, non-contact temperature sensor on shiny or other objects: put a piece of masking tape or black vinyl electrical tape (FLIR says use "Scotch 33") on the part to be measured and point the temperature sensor at that. The tape's emissivity is very close to what most IR sensors are calibrated to expect.
Being a retired AC mechanic I would tape the temp probe with some elec tape an put something to insulate it around it so the temp probe only gets temp from pipe. Hope I made it clear. Enjoy your channel. I think you were doing that but could not tell for sure.
I thought about taping the probe there. But I figured the tape would probably just melt off and fall off. High off camera I was holding it on there with a little wooden stick and that seemed to work really well.
150w worked well for me...sweet looking design
Hi Jerry, Wood is actually a mix of fibers which are a non-soluble sugar polymer (cellulose) and an amorphous fraction that serves as cement or resin for the fiber mesh. This cement is made of hemicellulose another nonsoluble sugar polymers. Heat is melting theses sugars that is what really helps you to bend wood. Steam avoids the wood to burn and is a heat transfer media. Your tool should work well. Spannish guitar makers simply use a bulb with a dimmer :-) inside a pipe. Please ground the aluminium core you work with water :-) i love your knowledge sharing.
I did ground it. Thank you for the information.
No idea if you already did something like this, but I'd add some thermal paste, like Arctic Silver, all over the heater element. That way you'll get a lot better heat transfer.
EDIT: And for your next version, once you get the aluminium and SS pipe sized that way, throw the aluminium plug in the freezer overnight, and the SS pipe in the oven... The ice cold plug should easily slide into the oven hot pipe. And once cooled, would have an even firmer connection than pressing them together could manage.
If it worked any better than it does it wouldn't look like I made it. LOL in fact it works really really well.
Nice job, very creative!!
If you used thermal paste, it would heat up faster and use less power plus if you add a temperature controller and use the paste on that as well it will be more accurate and more responsive. You can get it from Grainger but be sure you get the stuff for HVAC use and not the stuff for electronics as that stuff hardens. The paste for HVAC is a silvery paste the other is white. But be careful, it seems to get everywhere somehow lol
I'm not sure how I would use paste on bending wood? I do have a temperature controller on it already. And it seems to be incredibly accurate.
Rosa String Works Sorry, I should have been more specific. You put the paste inside the hole that you put the heater in and on the metal part of the heater itself. Air is an insulator. The paste fills the gap between the heater and the aluminum and conducts the heat VERY well. You'd also use it in the same manner for the temperature sensor. Put the paste inside the hole that you put the sensor in and on the sensor probe that goes into the hole. If you just mounted the sensor on the surface, then you just put a little dab on the surface and mount the sensor on top of that. You'd want to be sure that there is no possible way for the paste to get on the wood. I doubt that you'll do any of this since you've already got it together, but the paste really works great. I bet you'd notice you're metal heating up almost as soon as you turn it on. But why fix what ain't broke. Just thought you'd like to know what's out there :)
So thats how they do that. I bet your glad you made that your self.
Refractory cement from a brickyard would probably be the best, plus you could use the leftover around the farm house.
The only thing to use on SS is Trefelex,green goo ,will help you cut SS with even your lathe. Old machinist here. Cheers Ross ☺
I'll look into it. Thanks
Nice video Jerry. You might think about making a 6'' or 8'' bar to be drilled to fit over your existing one. That would give you a larger heat surface to start with. Just a thought.
Hi Jerry i thought the temperature at 180 was way too low you believed that the the temp should be way higher around 300 to 400 to make it viable. Learning curves are hard and you always get the logic right that is a gift that few possess. No probs a fantastic video humorous and real all the way and that my friend typifies you. Thank you for sharing, i loved this video. Peace and love from Bonny Scotland.
You can use a non-contact laser thermometer to get pipe temperature readings perhaps....
It worked for alot of Luthiers I worked for and with,when your spraying it on a thin piece of lumber all it will do is increase the steam
The reason the IR thermometer is not accurate with the polished surface is that the emissivity of a polished metal surface is about 0.1 - 0.15 - regardless of the type of metal. If the meter has a fixed emissivity, it is probably set for 0.9. If your meter has an emissivity adjustment, set the emissivity for 0.1. Since emissivity is a surface effect, you can alter the emissivity of the surface to get a more accurate reading. If you painted the surface black, it would be 0.9 emissivity. You could also put a piece of masking tape on a small area and read that. The emissivity of masking tape is about 0.85 so that would get you closer to the setting of the IR thermometer, if it has fixed emissivity.
Years ago I had the honor to take a work with an Italian Luthier who put a tablespoon of salt per quarter of water and it enhances the steam process,
Adding salt raises the boiling point of water.
Good attempt you did it well but I need a perfect bendor from you wether it's good or bad plz make one and give to me I'm from Kerala in a in India I need iron bending pipe for make guitar. Do not worry every experiment all most like next time you will be reach the real leval God bless you
investment plaster or hydrostone plaster is best. good video, thanks.
Have you looked in to using a PID and SSR type temperature controller? There are lots of little made of chinesium kits on ebay for less that $20. People use them for controlling wood drying kilns, pottery kilns, sous vide crock pots, and all sorts of stuff that needs controlled heat. If you search youtube for "pid temperature controller" there are "About 53,000 results."
I enjoy your videos. Thanks!
Thanks I'll check it out.
make a steamer box with a kettle, place your timber in the steamer box for a period of time (test 10 minutes first) then use your new tool to get the desired shape. Once you are happy with the shape you might want to try making a jig you can place the newly formed timber in to dry out in the final shape you require. The timber should bend much easier and quicker coming from a steamer box first.
I've tried steaming wood many times in the past. It hasn't really helped me very much. It seems to dry out crazy fast when your trying to bend it. I have boiled it in a large troft and bent at least a half-dozen sets that way over the last 30-plus years and that works pretty good but that's also how I broke the last set of sides
That's what I call a "press-fit" ! Great job and video. I like the home-made press, and the garage door springs really do the job. Looks like the plaster was tough to work with. What about quick-setting cement? I think that stuff flows almost like a liquid....
Yeah I almost used a cement product. So far the plaster of Paris seems to be okay but it may give up later you never know.
I do believe that was 10 micrometer in a row :D thanks for the video
Centigrade is the system created by Anders Celsius in the 1700s. You can call it Centigrade if you like, but since his name begins with C, somebody figured they'd honor the creator by calling it by his name, Celsius. Doing this didn't change the nomenclature but the choice is yours.
The StewMac product site says to use theirs at between 350° and 400°, and it takes about 45-60 minutes to heat up.
That's where I ended up going to with mine. And it only takes about 20 minutes to eat up.
Also, you might want to reference Chapter 19 of the USDA Specialty Wood Handbook - www.fs.usda.gov/treesearch/pubs/download/37414.pdf
According to the handbook, " The lignin polymer in the middle lamella and S2 layer is thermoplastic; that is, it softens upon heating. The glass transition temperature Tg of the lignin in the matrixis approximately 170 °C (338 °F). Above the matrix Tg, it is possible to cause the lignin to undergo thermoplastic flow and, upon cooling, reset in the same or modified configuration. This is the principle behind bending of wood."
So, you may want to try higher temperatures than the 200 F range.
Thank you. Will try that.
Centigrade is an old fashioned name for Celsius
thank you . suggestion if you dont mind on small holes in machine shops we would drill a 1/64 under the size hole then use a reamer for the right diameter that would get you dead on . the reason i am passing on this info is i get info from you so kind of an info exchange if you will. again thank you
Yes thank you. I'm actually familiar with that process. Just didn't have any reamers at the time I made this.
@@RosaStringWorks understand we tend to make do with what we have
Hum is PWM in the controller switching the power on an off chopping the AC into chunks . More chunks more heat !
Try Rigid Nuclear, makes stainless cut like butter.
You crack me up lol
Great build. How about using a light dimmer. Just my thought and not sure if it's a good idea or if it will even work. Just had to share my thought. Love watching your videos Jerry.
I thought the same thing, Gil.
good work brother!
Thanks Randy.
How lose is the heating element fit? Might thermal paste improve heat transfer between it and the aluminium?
Any idea of the temperature the element can reach without the speed controller? Maybe it's a bad one.
I like the suggestion above of using an oven or stove thermocouple control of some sort.
I gerry rigged a temperature controlled soldering iron some years back using a light dimming switch, probably not one of the safest things I've done (safer than my tinkering with a high voltage transformer from a neon shop sign attached to two pieces of foil ever side of a sheet of glass to make an ozone generator though :-) ).
Good.luck with it, I hope you crack it soon.
Perhaps you could fill the gap between the heating element and the aluminum with thermal compound. The one used for microprocessor cooling. probably expensive in th cuantity you need.
Instead of pressing the aluminum into the SS, could you just throw the aluminum into the freezer to shrink it?
That's, exactly, what I was thinking.
Put the aluminum rod in the freezer and heat the tube with a torch (Oxy or Propane).
Maybe, apply some thermal paste, to the rod, for better heat transfer and (maybe)
some help slipping into the tube. Whack rod into tube, using a wooden mallet or dead blow hammer.
Be well prepared and work fast. Keep rod in freezer for a couple hours, to maximize shrinkage.
Epoxy resin would of worked with aluminum powder mixin in. im sure the plaster will crack. i used to work in a tile factory. . they do hold heat but rott very quick when water is added after setup. maybe add a resin top to the plaster ?? good job jerry.. O I SEE YOU ADDED A TOP. OK.. COOL.. ID TURN THAT BAD BOY ALL THE WAY UP AND GO . GO .GO :)
Noice build, all occasionally used Hi-Temp Silicone Rubber glue tubes are eventually opened in the "middle" . . . IR issues w/ reflective surfaces . . .. Black Sharpie . . m_m
The coefficient of expansion of Al is larger than SS so the hotter it gets, the tighter it will be in there.
Jerry, I am sure you have used the bending iron by now. What temp have you ended up using for bending? I am surprised at the low temps suggested in the video. Stewmac suggests 350-400. Curious on the reason for the wide variation....
Stainless-slower speed (rpm) faster feed. Some stainless depending on hardness will work harden if the cutter rubs without feeding fast enough.
When taking of 1/1000 or so of a rotating object try emery paper instead of a file.
Jerry, is the 3 jaw chuck a thru hole?? If you drip alcohol on the aluminum at the tool insert, it will give you a mirror Finnish, slow feed.
Nice result Jerry, looks like a solid tool. But after seeing the build process It seems Stew may not be to over priced.
Yeah it was quite a bit of work but it didn't really take all that long. By the hour I lost money. But what's the fun in buying a tool?
Well like they say, getting there is half the fun. I was wondering why you didn't just go with the aluminum since the diameters were the same?
How long would you have to spend online shopping to find one even without the nice table in hours? You have to count that too if your really going to count all your time.
I forgot about the table, that's a very nice feature.
Very nice build, did you had now the chance totest it on real side ?
Hi Jerry, I´m tryng to do something like this, but I dont have the tools to do it exactly like this, I only can use one metal nucleus and I dont know if use aluminium or iron. I was thinking that Iron shluld be the best since the name of the tool is "bending iron", but when I see DIY projects, everybody use aluminum.
Can you help me with a tip? Thank you very much!
Is aluminium grabs the heat much much faster iron would work but it takes longer to heat up
@@RosaStringWorks Thank you very much for your help!!
Why not completely pre-soak/saturate the wood instead of spraying as you go? Wouldnt soaking it soften it, allowing it to bend easier? 🎵🎸
I've always done it that way for the past 30 some years. I'm trying the method that most folks use.
Is there going to be any galvanic action between the stainless and aluminum?
in boat building they use a steambox, woodbox and feed in the steam, producing the steam with a kettle . Maybe thats an option?
Actually I haven't had much success with that. Tried it many times.
Hello...
you state " i've got the two hot wires connected"....i must be missing something because don't you need a neutral?
Thanks
Paul Seery
It might stay hotter if you plugged the hole in the top of your heat bar.
I was gonna suggest a steam box but others have beat me to it there's a feller in Joliet Montana that restores olwagong buggies an such ya he has some good videos on how he steams and bends wagon bows
I've tried steam boxes many times and I've had zero luck with that.
36.2 degrees Celsius is healthy in millimetre land.
Haha!
Hi there Jerry. One of my 12 string guitars has a problem and i was wondering if you could give me your input of advice. Its a guitar from a Japanese company called "Raven". It was only an $80 buy so i said "Why not?". It sounded fairly good anyhow. I found zero info on it while researching it. It has very strange construction on the top. The braces are in a sort of square pattern where each brace goes perpendicular to another which is bad because there is very little meat holding up the front end of the bridge. Due to that construction, it has caused a fairly deep crater in the top and the bridge is lifting. I have no problem fixing a bridge because its fairly simple to do. Any advice how i could fix the dip in the top? Any advice is helpful 🙂
Actually taking the dip out of a top as one of the very hardest things to do. It won't stay out in my opinion unless you fix it mechanically. Meaning putting additional bracing and or bridge pad under the bridge inside the guitar. It's important to press it flat as you glue whatever new brace you put inside the guitar once the glue sets hard generally it will keep it flat.
Alright I will see what I can do. i forgot to mention, I saw that the guitar has two small 1"x1 1/2 pieces of wood for a bridge plate. I'm thinking that I should replace it with something more sturdy. Should I remove the top to ease the process of re-enforcing it?
Put some strings on it and you could play some real hot music
The salt just seems to create more steam,
Neat work. I wonder if that heater won't continue to heat until it gets to a maximum temperature whether the controller is on low or high (and assuming that the controller is working properly). It might just heat up slower at the low setting. I'd check into that before I sprung for a more expensive controller. I expect by the time you post your next video you'll have all the details worked out and will be bending wood on it like you've always used it. Thanx for the video.
I've used it more since the video and it seems to be working pretty well. The heater itself seems to be fine. The temperature controller actually seems to be working now that I'm understanding what the I'm doing a little better with this electric Bender
I knew you'd get it going. 😁
why not use a angel grinder and then flat it on the lay?
I guess my question is why use an angle grinder when I have a metal cutting bandsaw?
Hey Jerry nice project you should go to Jason Beam Channel he built a bender and works better hand made,Cheers
I have seen quite a few on the TH-cam. Don't remember if I saw that one or not. After I raised the temperature this one worked absolutely great. Thanks
maybe 180C would be a better temperature?
I'm not sure how hot 180c is but I'll look into it.
Fun video . . . as Jeff Bradshaw would say, "These's a special tool for this, but I don't have that tool" . . .
I do now. LOL
hey sweety i'm sandra lewis of Tx i'm interested in getting a mandolin and I would be proud to own one of yours could you please send me a list of your mandolins and some photos with pricing and specs thank you so much
It would probably be best for you to email me. I'll warn you they are a little expensive.
There are various scales for temp: fahrenheit ( after German physicist Gabriel Daniel Fahrenheit 1686-1736) centigrade, celsius and Kelvin ( After William Kelvin using thermodynamics) . Centigrade is the old name fro celsius. The scale is named after Swedish scientist Anders Celsius ( 1701-44). You can get more info on Wikipedia. Boiling point of water is 212F.
The boiling point of water is 212 F at sea level. It changes approximately 1 degree per 500 feet of elevation change. Where Jerry is located is 750 feet above sea level, making the boiling point close to 210.5 F.
Jerry,240degrees is best and add some salt to the water
I would never have thought to add salt to the water why would you do that? I was able to bend it at 240 degrees but it was not very easy. When I got up to about 350 degrees it started bending very easily and no burning.
Salt slightly increases the boiling point of water. It would mean that the water would get a bit hotter before producing steam and the steam would be a bit hotter. Not sure if that is an advantage or not in this case, especially since it only raises it by a few degrees at most.
Water boils at 212 if I remember correctly.
He jumped the gun a little bit at 210, but it was continuing to heat up.
The boiling point of water changes depending upon altitude. The boiling point changes slightly under 1 degree F for every 500 feet altitude change above or below sea level. Newburg, MO is 750 feet above sea level so the boiling point of water would be approximately 210.5 F, so Jerry was very close in his statement that water would boil at 210 F.
Buckhorn Cortez at about the 5248 Mark he made a comment that around 240' was boiling point before he corrected it .I'm not sure of his exact words .that's what I was referring to.😉thx.
Set a steam iron on it.
soak the pieces in water rather than spray
I did soak them for the first 35 years. Then once I sprayed them I found that worked better for me.
I have yet to bend any wood
, so I appreciate what I'm learning ...I'm new to your channel so I apologize if I'm repeating observations that are old news... just thought to mention its entertaining watching in real-time your thought process in assessing your approach to completing each step...thats not easy to do when you have an audience breathing down your neck...you convey in such a manner that is not tedious or boring, and allows the audience time to think along with you...that may be a pain in your arse at times but it sure allows for input and adds a lot more content to the project...one of the few good channels worth watching... @@RosaStringWorks
Your trying to use a motor controller to control a heater, that's why it won't work
It actually does work pretty well. I've used it quite a bit since the video I just wasn't using it hot enough.
Ha Ha Millimeter land 😊 that would be every part of the world that isn’t the United States