I'm self taught with years of practical experience, and I've decided recently to pursue it on a stronger level, and in all the videos I've seen since I've started this, this one is probably the absolute best one. Also that cinematography was excellent so it was easy on the eyes. Thank you so much.
Your technique for strengthening the edges with the burlap (You call it scrim, I call it burlap) is great! I always have such trouble with my edges- as you say, they take a lot of punishment. That's a good technique!
For the first plaster coat, I haven't found anything that works better than a chip brush; it's soft, and gets into all the nooks it needs to. If you're careful, you can wash it out and re-use a chip brush many, many times with plaster; it doesn't have to be disposable. I've used chip brushes for my plaster work for years, before replacing. For the second and later coats, I prefer to use a silicone brush- often sold for use with baking or basting or barbecuing. The silicone "bristles" are not as good at getting into small spaces as the fiber chip brush bristles; but it's way more durable and easy to clean- even dried plaster will break out and can be cleaned (though of course it much easier to clean when wet!)
regarding your air bubbles issue - it may be due to varying temperatures. One often gets this when varnishing classic yachts' teak, if one starts too early in the morning: you need to wait until it has warmed up and stabilised temperature-wise, with the aim for it to be if anything COOLING after the varnish is applied. This stops the substrate from gassing, as the cooling draws anything into the substrate, rather than pushing it out. So if possible I would try to warm the object up slightly, let it stabalise a bit above the ambient/room temperature, and then the gassing/bubbling will (hopefully) be minimised as the coating sets.
I was very recently turned onto a "Shinto saw rasp." It has a very open construction, which lets material fall out, but a wide surface area to carve out a lot of material. Even better than a coarse rasp, which can get clogged by plaster- especially slightly damp plaster- very easily. They're not super-rare, but not super-common either, if my search is anything to go by. But I did find several, picked one, and have been using it since with great satisfaction. Maybe try one yourself!
Beautiful work! Thank you for sharing. To avoid air bubbles in the first layer of silicone I use to seal the plaster cast with primer, the one used before painting a drywall.
This was fantastic, and I liked the fact that you said you had to add more plaster before the original coat completely dried. Plaster will not stick correctly to completely dried plaster. The odd thing is as a house painter it worked when repairing a wall. However, you had to take a water bottle and saturate the dried plaster before adding a new layer on top..
Indeed. The stresses a mould will endure will test adhesion between layers. I understand using acrylic mediums in addition to water can aid adhesion but for all that, quickly applied layers are the best way to ensure a bond. Having an assistant mixing uo the next layer before the previous has set is sensible to help ensure a swift mould with bonded layers that will remain intact when twitted with levers when opened.
@visualdrip.official what about it? This being just the face cast, no back of the head was included. Full head casts and moulds need a different approach as it won't be a single piece mould. Rather, it'll be at least two pieces. Often, a full head isn't required, such as when making a nose and chin for a character. The extra time and expense isn't necessary. I have done a full head master mould video, too, way down in my video catalogue.
They will eventually, but for most production stuff that point is well beyond the typical demands. If industrial quantities needed then either duplicate moulds or go another route (injection moulded/machined aluminium etc)
Thanks for your interest! I have updated the description but for you, I pop them here too: ** Materials List ** Clay - Water Based grey pottery clay Silicone- Dow Corning 3481 Tin based silicone with 'Fast' catalyst Silicone pigments- Available usually from same place as silicone Fabric - Jute scrim or burlap Plaster- Crystacal R (a slower setting alpha plaster similar (ish) to Ultracal 30 Key Mould- PVC U-shaped channel edging (hardware store) Release spray- Spray wax release 'MacWax' Brushes- Disposable 'chip' or laminating brushes
Nice tutorial ! always cool to compare techniques by different artists , doing the same thing , cause theses ALWAYS bits of this & that from each . :D thanks
This may be 2 yrs old but I loved this! Please bring more thorough breakdowns of your process. Possibly about the process of making silicone masks?? 😊 Keep up the great work!
I shall do more. The issue is making videos is a side hustle for fun, my main job is working on movies and that industry has gone crazy these last couple of years. I shall do more and I really appreciate your attention and kind words.
@@stuartbray That is wonderful! I hope your career continues to bring you great opportunities! Making SFX movie magic also sounds like a great series of TH-cam videos also. Have a good holiday Stuart. I am looking forward to future videos featured on your channel. Notifications activated.
❤❤❤❤❤I HAVE BEEN LOOKING FOR THIS METHOD FOR ABSOLUTELY AGES ~ FINALLY FOUND IT ~ THANK YOU SO MUCH ~ YOU NOW HAVE A NEW SUBSCRIBER!! SO MUCH APPRECIATED!! JUST ON QUESTION: DO I NEED TO USE ANY FORM OF RELEASE ON THE SILICONE WHEN MAKING MULTIPLE CASTING’S? QUESTION: DO YOU HAVE A VIDEO ON HOW TO MAKE THE LIVE PLASTER CAST ON SILICONE DOLL PARTS? I AM TRYING TO MAKE THIS FROM OF MOULD FOR EACH SILICONE DOLL PART SO IN FUTURE I CAN THEN MAKE MY OWN PORCELAIN DOLL PARTS!!
Hi Lisa. Many thanks. For release, I tend to a wax mould release spray. Although not usually necessary for a successful cast, it tends to tax the release qualities of the mould surface less and so extends moulds life. Do you intend to mould from real dollls? Like a lifecast, but of a doll? If so, I'd use a lifecasting silicone, which will yield plaster copies very nicely.
Thanks! I will make more soon. It's been a busy year making stuff for shows but things are slowing down so I can make tutorials again. Been making digital moulds too which is helping me in classes, explaining processes etc.
You could get a smooth finish and stronger but adding cornstarch in your silicone. And mixing until it's at a putty like stage. Roll it out and apply like. Fondent. A bit easier !
Thanks for the video. Do you do one that would apply to a bust (ie not just a half head, but a two part mould of a full head with a flat base at bottom end of neck)? Most of the techniques, I'm guessing, would be the same? Probably have some others available on TH-cam, but I like your presentation - easy to follow, good explanation of why you're doing the things you do, and a pleasant, non-grating accent (not that I've got anything against American accents and style of presenting...).
Thank you Stuart for your aesthetically pleasing tutorial, I did learn very much and know now, how to go on with my work. I hope you can answer me one question, please!? How thick are your layers 1, 2, 3 and 4? I just need to know, to be able to calculate how much silicon I'll need for my work...
With the unthickened layers, I allow whatever it naturally sits at. Being the viscosity it is (and the time it takes to set set), it will naturally settle at 1 or 2mm thick. If it took longer to set, then gravity would continue to work its magic and make it thinner. As I know I'm going to add thicker layers and a scrim reinforced layer, the job of the first few layers is purely to get a good surface without air bubbles. It's always tricky to truly know how thick the silicone will be because it's opaque and you have to trust the method. Invariably, I make the mould too thick in an attempt to avoid it being too thin.
Nice job; I always appreciate a well made mold. A spray-on shellac sealer for the plaster helps eliminate out-gassing bubbles. Still, I'd much prefer to deal with inclusions on a cast than occlusions.
What type of beeswax spray do you use? Is it straight beeswax with a propellant, or a furniture polish with beeswax as the main ingredient? I want to get some, but hope you’ll have a sec to reply. :)
This is Mac Wax, specifically a wax based release agent in a can. I find this is curiously harder to find outside the US. It ist a wood polish spray, but in a pinch i suppose that may work, but the spray is a fine mist and designed as a mould release in the UK.
@dariob.2547 degassing chamber? I do have one, but these bubbles come out from the plaster. I mostly use faster setting platinum silicones nowadays and don't have this issue any more. Each layer sets up in about ten minutes.
@hardiehardley plaster is cheaper and much stronger. You can use bandage, but it tends to be for more temporary things which won't be used mutiple times.
@@stuartbray I don't suppose you know of any high density plasters in the Usa? Whilst I am a UK boy myself, I work seasonally in the Usa, and taking all that with me would cost.
I would imagine you can but it may need a release agent to help remove the mould easily. By colours, do you mean a paint rather than a woodstain. If so, I would suggest doing a small patch test to check it doesn't affect it. The danger is that old paint which peels off may become damaged during removal - it all depends on the condition of the piece. If you mean the original natural wood colour, I would be worried that the oils on silicone would stain the wood and modify it. The safest option is to 3D scan the item and 3d print it.
Until it has set sufficiently to withstand brushing of the next layer. This silicone has three speeds of catalyst available (slow, fast and very fast). Ambient room temperature will affect the actual speed. Warmer speeds things up, cooler slows it down. I used the fast, and it took approx an hour for each layer to become stiff enough to withstand the next.
Expensive is a relative term. It certainly isn't cheap, but a job is priced up accordingly. There are always cost and benefits to weigh up, so choosing the right materials for a job is important. Time is also expensive, so sometimes a task is made simpler and more efficient with a more costly material, which may save time and stress in the longer run. Putting a dollar value on the benefits offsets the cost of material.
Where can I buy a plaster cast of a woman's face to make a silicone mask, does Amazon sell plaster casts? 2- Can I make a silicone mask from the face of a mannequin by pouring silicone into the face of a mannequin without using a plaster mold?
@shahindezfouli5108 they do sell cosmetology practice heads, but ideally, you want something anatomically correct and the right size. Often, these things are not quite right. There are mask sculpting armatures, most effects suppliers sell something along these lines. Costs and shipping will depend on where you are in the world.
@@stuartbray so what I do? Can I make natural woman silicone mask by me?how can I make plaster cast when here is any body so how can I buy plaster natural face from Amazon?
@@shahindezfouli5108 @shahindezfouli5108 does it have to be plaster? Does it have to be amazon? You can buy rigid heads on Amazon, they need not be plaster as that is a heavy material which can break easily if dropped so not a likely material for a supplier of head armatures. Fx suppliers do sell head form armatures. If you can't use those, then try amazon.
@@stuartbray Ofcourse I can but silicon mask on Amazon if your means is it but after silicon masks are fake and bad siza or bad material so do you know good and cheap silicon mask on Amazon that it be natural human face and cheap on Amazon ? Please send link to me,thanks
@@shahindezfouli5108 they are not likely to be silicone. My understanding is you need a rigid head to sculpt onto. The head will likely be a urethane plastic, many are hollow or filled with a lightweight, rigid expanding foam to reduce weight.
Why don't you use a paint stick to mix the silicone? Not judging, just curious. I imagine you lose so much material, and people might use latex gloves to mix, and that's never a good outcome lol
With larger amounts I apply with hands so they are getting messy, but surprisingly little waste. If the few extra grams are an issue, I'll hope that economy of using a stick will occur to them.
@@stuartbray I meant when mixing the base and catalyst. I'd be afraid of someone using latex gloves or not getting an even enough mix. I like to use my hands to "brush on" as well, but I always mix with a paint stick just so I can get a good fast, but thorough mix with as little waste as possible. I always just use my hands for plaster or a drill mixer. Then after I pour the silicone the stick helps with bucket clean up (instant pull plug! If I'm making multiple batches) while letting me know if it's set or not. Again not bashing or anything. I was just curious to your thought process.
And if you want to use a human to make a silicone mould mould make sure you use skin safe. Also make sure you stuff straws up his nostrils and one in the humans mouth as you want your human to still be breathing after an hour or two.
I would never advise straws in the nose, as knocking that and carving a groove into the nasal cavity isn't great. It also distorts the nose and lays flat over the lips and gets in the way of business. I 3D scan nowadays instead life cast in the main. So much more accurate and comfortable.
@@BattlesWithBitsofRubber no computer in my day. No videos in my day. And no books just pamphlets with silly drawings on them so I learned the hard way with all the other oldys but knowledge was handed down and nice to see we where able to hand it over to the more advanced technology of today. But I see your point with the nostrils but still think it's a great idea to use skin safe on the human skin and pop a straw in the mouth if you choose the old fashioned way of the old school mould maker.
Naturally you'd use a skin safe silicone for life casting. This video is about making a master mould from a plaster, so this video isn't about skin safe materials. I have done life casting videos where this is the subject. I too grew up learning from old school techniques and masters. It amazing actually how much you appreciate the new tech having spent 30 years never having it. I worry that mould makers who only use digital won't have the hands one experience to appreciate the benefits of being able to print up moulds and mould jackets. There's nothing like hands on experience.
@@BattlesWithBitsofRubber I'm sorry if I come across telling you how to make a mould that's not my intention im saying this for new mould makers watching your video. I seen some on on you tube make a two part plaster mould of some ones hand then try to open it with a Stanley knife on the person's hand. I also seen a guy taking a fibreglass mould half from another man's torso and struggling for a while you heard him taring it of. I could not believe it. So it's just in case some one gets ideas from your video. It's obvious to you and me but not to others
@@michaelpearson1272 yow! That madness. You seen the lifecast video of a woman who has her head thru a hole in the table and a box built around it? They filled the box with alginate and it pushed away the straw up her nose and basically she started to panic and nearly drowned. Gave me the heebee jeebees.
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this is one of the best video tutorials i've seen-- not just for moldmaking, but for anything. thank you!
@orioborous ah man, thank you!
Detail of instructions are superior to anything I have seen before.
I'm self taught with years of practical experience, and I've decided recently to pursue it on a stronger level, and in all the videos I've seen since I've started this, this one is probably the absolute best one. Also that cinematography was excellent so it was easy on the eyes. Thank you so much.
Your technique for strengthening the edges with the burlap (You call it scrim, I call it burlap) is great! I always have such trouble with my edges- as you say, they take a lot of punishment. That's a good technique!
Thank you Stuart, I thoroughly enjoyed watching this tutorial. It was beautifully presented, clear and concise. Thanks again !
This is brilliant. All i wanted to know in one video. I love it.
Oh, this is awesome! I rarely have patience to go through a full length vid but this one is top! Thank you!
The most perfect molde i ever saw... wonderful job
For the first plaster coat, I haven't found anything that works better than a chip brush; it's soft, and gets into all the nooks it needs to. If you're careful, you can wash it out and re-use a chip brush many, many times with plaster; it doesn't have to be disposable. I've used chip brushes for my plaster work for years, before replacing. For the second and later coats, I prefer to use a silicone brush- often sold for use with baking or basting or barbecuing. The silicone "bristles" are not as good at getting into small spaces as the fiber chip brush bristles; but it's way more durable and easy to clean- even dried plaster will break out and can be cleaned (though of course it much easier to clean when wet!)
amazing video , thank you so much for this full process :o one of the best tutorials for making something serious !!
Learned many tips and tricks that I've never seen, esp using your hands. Very informative thank you
Crystacal R is also an amazing casting medium.
regarding your air bubbles issue - it may be due to varying temperatures. One often gets this when varnishing classic yachts' teak, if one starts too early in the morning: you need to wait until it has warmed up and stabilised temperature-wise, with the aim for it to be if anything COOLING after the varnish is applied. This stops the substrate from gassing, as the cooling draws anything into the substrate, rather than pushing it out. So if possible I would try to warm the object up slightly, let it stabalise a bit above the ambient/room temperature, and then the gassing/bubbling will (hopefully) be minimised as the coating sets.
I was very recently turned onto a "Shinto saw rasp." It has a very open construction, which lets material fall out, but a wide surface area to carve out a lot of material. Even better than a coarse rasp, which can get clogged by plaster- especially slightly damp plaster- very easily. They're not super-rare, but not super-common either, if my search is anything to go by. But I did find several, picked one, and have been using it since with great satisfaction. Maybe try one yourself!
@TSIRKLAND I have one too. They are excellent, probably the best tool for fast plaster shaving.
Beautiful work! Thank you for sharing. To avoid air bubbles in the first layer of silicone I use to seal the plaster cast with primer, the one used before painting a drywall.
Thanks. Yes indeed, a wise investment of time it would appear.
Thanks a lot! That was really helpful and clear. Now I feel confident enough to try and make a mold myself 😊
This was fantastic, and I liked the fact that you said you had to add more plaster before the original coat completely dried. Plaster will not stick correctly to completely dried plaster. The odd thing is as a house painter it worked when repairing a wall. However, you had to take a water bottle and saturate the dried plaster before adding a new layer on top..
Indeed. The stresses a mould will endure will test adhesion between layers. I understand using acrylic mediums in addition to water can aid adhesion but for all that, quickly applied layers are the best way to ensure a bond. Having an assistant mixing uo the next layer before the previous has set is sensible to help ensure a swift mould with bonded layers that will remain intact when twitted with levers when opened.
Huge help for me, thank you for posting.
A generous sharing of knowledge
brilliant tutorial sir
Ooooohhhh I love the mixing with the hands!! ❤
It's the best way!
Brilliantly explained, thank you so much. You are my hero. Huge massive hugs.
Wow, thank you!
This is beautiful to watch. 🙂
Thanks, Gina. I really enjoyed making this video too.
Wow! that was detailed and clear
very very informative! im curious, what about the back of the head?
@visualdrip.official what about it? This being just the face cast, no back of the head was included. Full head casts and moulds need a different approach as it won't be a single piece mould. Rather, it'll be at least two pieces.
Often, a full head isn't required, such as when making a nose and chin for a character. The extra time and expense isn't necessary.
I have done a full head master mould video, too, way down in my video catalogue.
@ awesome I’ll have a look , thanks!
do the details in the mold degrade after so many uses?
awesome video!
They will eventually, but for most production stuff that point is well beyond the typical demands. If industrial quantities needed then either duplicate moulds or go another route (injection moulded/machined aluminium etc)
Is it possible for you to write the names of the different materials in the description? Thanks for a great video!
Thanks for your interest! I have updated the description but for you, I pop them here too:
** Materials List **
Clay - Water Based grey pottery clay
Silicone- Dow Corning 3481 Tin based silicone with 'Fast' catalyst
Silicone pigments- Available usually from same place as silicone
Fabric - Jute scrim or burlap
Plaster- Crystacal R (a slower setting alpha plaster similar (ish) to Ultracal 30
Key Mould- PVC U-shaped channel edging (hardware store)
Release spray- Spray wax release 'MacWax'
Brushes- Disposable 'chip' or laminating brushes
Awesome video, btw. 👏
@@MsZzzipper Thank you!!
"unfortunately it's called a flange" 😦
You crack me up 🤣
Nice tutorial ! always cool to compare techniques by different artists , doing the same thing , cause theses ALWAYS bits of this & that from each . :D thanks
Amazing video.
Thanks for the level of detail/info and time taken, very helpful and exactly what i was looking for.
Much appreciated,
Awesome. I appreciate you checking it out!
This may be 2 yrs old but I loved this! Please bring more thorough breakdowns of your process. Possibly about the process of making silicone masks?? 😊
Keep up the great work!
I shall do more. The issue is making videos is a side hustle for fun, my main job is working on movies and that industry has gone crazy these last couple of years. I shall do more and I really appreciate your attention and kind words.
@@stuartbray That is wonderful! I hope your career continues to bring you great opportunities! Making SFX movie magic also sounds like a great series of TH-cam videos also. Have a good holiday Stuart. I am looking forward to future videos featured on your channel. Notifications activated.
❤❤❤❤❤I HAVE BEEN LOOKING FOR THIS METHOD FOR ABSOLUTELY AGES ~ FINALLY FOUND IT ~ THANK YOU SO MUCH ~ YOU NOW HAVE A NEW SUBSCRIBER!! SO MUCH APPRECIATED!! JUST ON QUESTION: DO I NEED TO USE ANY FORM OF RELEASE ON THE SILICONE WHEN MAKING MULTIPLE CASTING’S?
QUESTION: DO YOU HAVE A VIDEO ON HOW TO MAKE THE LIVE PLASTER CAST ON SILICONE DOLL PARTS?
I AM TRYING TO MAKE THIS FROM OF MOULD FOR EACH SILICONE DOLL PART SO IN FUTURE I CAN THEN MAKE MY OWN PORCELAIN DOLL PARTS!!
Hi Lisa. Many thanks. For release, I tend to a wax mould release spray. Although not usually necessary for a successful cast, it tends to tax the release qualities of the mould surface less and so extends moulds life.
Do you intend to mould from real dollls? Like a lifecast, but of a doll? If so, I'd use a lifecasting silicone, which will yield plaster copies very nicely.
Incredibly informative !!
Thank you for this tutorial!
Brilliant Stuff!
Thanks! I will make more soon. It's been a busy year making stuff for shows but things are slowing down so I can make tutorials again. Been making digital moulds too which is helping me in classes, explaining processes etc.
The Best one yet
This was a wonderful showcase and tutorial, thank you so much, this will definitely help me as i will be casting my arm and making a mould =)
Awesome. Thanks for watching and glad it could help. Get in touch if you get stuck
You could get a smooth finish and stronger but adding cornstarch in your silicone. And mixing until it's at a putty like stage. Roll it out and apply like. Fondent. A bit easier !
Never even thought about trying that. I've used Polyfibres with urethane and also resin but will give that a go.
Thanks for the video. Do you do one that would apply to a bust (ie not just a half head, but a two part mould of a full head with a flat base at bottom end of neck)? Most of the techniques, I'm guessing, would be the same? Probably have some others available on TH-cam, but I like your presentation - easy to follow, good explanation of why you're doing the things you do, and a pleasant, non-grating accent (not that I've got anything against American accents and style of presenting...).
Your channel is awesome, for sure has been a big part of my learning .
Ah, Thank you so much.
@@stuartbray thank YOU! 😁
Excellent tutorial!
Very comprehensive video.
Amazing as always.
Really interesting and well explained thanks
Great video!
Hey Stuart, thank you for your amazing video! Is the burlap very important for the stability of the plaster?
Yes, as plaster is brittle and may crack when under stress such as when being levered open or bolted/clamped closed.
@@stuartbray Okay thank you for answering my question!!! So I will buy burlap :)
Very good video! Thanks!
Definitely useful Stuart thank you :)
This is a very satisfying video.
Thank you Stuart for your aesthetically pleasing tutorial, I did learn very much and know now, how to go on with my work. I hope you can answer me one question, please!? How thick are your layers 1, 2, 3 and 4? I just need to know, to be able to calculate how much silicon I'll need for my work...
With the unthickened layers, I allow whatever it naturally sits at. Being the viscosity it is (and the time it takes to set set), it will naturally settle at 1 or 2mm thick. If it took longer to set, then gravity would continue to work its magic and make it thinner.
As I know I'm going to add thicker layers and a scrim reinforced layer, the job of the first few layers is purely to get a good surface without air bubbles.
It's always tricky to truly know how thick the silicone will be because it's opaque and you have to trust the method. Invariably, I make the mould too thick in an attempt to avoid it being too thin.
@@stuartbray Thank you very much! Now I can work reassured... 🙃
Nice job; I always appreciate a well made mold. A spray-on shellac sealer for the plaster helps eliminate out-gassing bubbles. Still, I'd much prefer to deal with inclusions on a cast than occlusions.
Thanks For This Video
Perfect, thank you!!!
Amazing video😮
What type of beeswax spray do you use? Is it straight beeswax with a propellant, or a furniture polish with beeswax as the main ingredient? I want to get some, but hope you’ll have a sec to reply.
:)
This is Mac Wax, specifically a wax based release agent in a can. I find this is curiously harder to find outside the US. It ist a wood polish spray, but in a pinch i suppose that may work, but the spray is a fine mist and designed as a mould release in the UK.
Cool reminds me of cake icing 😊
wow, mastery 😮
satisfying video to watch
I have used part all wax before molding plaster and stone. Have you tried airbrush seal with clear coat?
Stuart, if you use a Vacuum machine you can "cook" the silicone and you will no longer have air bubbles.
@dariob.2547 degassing chamber? I do have one, but these bubbles come out from the plaster. I mostly use faster setting platinum silicones nowadays and don't have this issue any more. Each layer sets up in about ten minutes.
Best tutorial video
such an amazing video
great !
Thank you this is so helpful!!
What a great school day!
Thanks for a great video. How many litres of silicone are required for a mould like this ?
That's a great question. Depending on how thick you make it, around 3 to 4 kg probably.
@@stuartbray Thanks Stuart! How many hours would you say it took to make this? Not including waiting for things to dry?
Was there any particular reason as to why you chose to brush on plaster, as opposed to using plaster bandages?
@hardiehardley plaster is cheaper and much stronger. You can use bandage, but it tends to be for more temporary things which won't be used mutiple times.
@@stuartbray I don't suppose you know of any high density plasters in the Usa? Whilst I am a UK boy myself, I work seasonally in the Usa, and taking all that with me would cost.
@hardiehardley Ultracal 30 was the gold standard there, otherwise switch uo to an acrylic plaster combo like Forton from Smooth On.
Thank you
Thank you so much
Are you maybe introducing the air bubbles with the AIR gun! 😂😉🤔🧐
No, they have crept out from inside the plaster. I've had it happen when there was no air blasted from the outside.
CAN YOU USE CEMENT WITH THIS MOLD? I KNOW THIS VIDEO IS OLD BUT HOPEFULLY YOU STILL AVAIL. THANK YOU
As the jacket or to fill it and make a cast? Cement usually comes best from a urethane mould rather than silicone.
Me encanto, muchas gracias 😮😮😮😮😊
I need a rubber mold for flower jar production
Cool.
Loved this tutorial! Can I ask what kind of Silicone did you use there? @stuartbray
Sure thing. At one minute in, I say that it's Dow Cornings 3481, a popular tin silicone.
I need this silicone to use and make pop design mold, how can I get it ?
From a special effects materials supplier. It all depends on your location as to which supplier is closest. Whereabouts in the world are you based?
hi. thanks alot. excuse me, how much silicone do you used for this mold? thanks.
About 2kg
I would like to do a mold of a old wood sculpture with the original colors. Can i put the silicone directly without damaging the origin colors?
I would imagine you can but it may need a release agent to help remove the mould easily. By colours, do you mean a paint rather than a woodstain. If so, I would suggest doing a small patch test to check it doesn't affect it.
The danger is that old paint which peels off may become damaged during removal - it all depends on the condition of the piece.
If you mean the original natural wood colour, I would be worried that the oils on silicone would stain the wood and modify it.
The safest option is to 3D scan the item and 3d print it.
@@stuartbray thank you very much for your quick answer. It help me a lot
👍👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏👏👏👏 i leaned many things thank you from istanbul..
How long do you wait after every layer of silicone.
Until it has set sufficiently to withstand brushing of the next layer. This silicone has three speeds of catalyst available (slow, fast and very fast). Ambient room temperature will affect the actual speed. Warmer speeds things up, cooler slows it down.
I used the fast, and it took approx an hour for each layer to become stiff enough to withstand the next.
спасибо, мастер!
Is that a Paltinum or Tin cure silicone?
This is Dow Corning 3481, a regular tin moulding silicone.
@@stuartbray Thank you for the reply.
Is there a dye that I can get from Walmart that can be used to color the silicone ?
Acrylic Paint will work but I'd try and get silicone pigments for optimal performance.
@@stuartbray I was thinking about trying RIT. I have 12 ozs of red lol
@@REDFOOT79 I'd always suggest trying a small sample and see if it has any deleterious effects in the curing of the silicone.
How to mix the silicon mold.
Do you mean the technique of how to actually mix, or do you mean the percentage of catalyst used?
Isn't it silicon expensive?
Expensive is a relative term. It certainly isn't cheap, but a job is priced up accordingly. There are always cost and benefits to weigh up, so choosing the right materials for a job is important.
Time is also expensive, so sometimes a task is made simpler and more efficient with a more costly material, which may save time and stress in the longer run.
Putting a dollar value on the benefits offsets the cost of material.
Where can I buy a plaster cast of a woman's face to make a silicone mask, does Amazon sell plaster casts?
2- Can I make a silicone mask from the face of a mannequin by pouring silicone into the face of a mannequin without using a plaster mold?
@shahindezfouli5108 they do sell cosmetology practice heads, but ideally, you want something anatomically correct and the right size. Often, these things are not quite right.
There are mask sculpting armatures, most effects suppliers sell something along these lines. Costs and shipping will depend on where you are in the world.
@@stuartbray so what I do? Can I make natural woman silicone mask by me?how can I make plaster cast when here is any body so how can I buy plaster natural face from Amazon?
@@shahindezfouli5108 @shahindezfouli5108 does it have to be plaster? Does it have to be amazon?
You can buy rigid heads on Amazon, they need not be plaster as that is a heavy material which can break easily if dropped so not a likely material for a supplier of head armatures.
Fx suppliers do sell head form armatures. If you can't use those, then try amazon.
@@stuartbray Ofcourse I can but silicon mask on Amazon if your means is it but after silicon masks are fake and bad siza or bad material so do you know good and cheap silicon mask on Amazon that it be natural human face and cheap on Amazon ? Please send link to me,thanks
@@shahindezfouli5108 they are not likely to be silicone. My understanding is you need a rigid head to sculpt onto. The head will likely be a urethane plastic, many are hollow or filled with a lightweight, rigid expanding foam to reduce weight.
Why don't you use a paint stick to mix the silicone? Not judging, just curious. I imagine you lose so much material, and people might use latex gloves to mix, and that's never a good outcome lol
With larger amounts I apply with hands so they are getting messy, but surprisingly little waste. If the few extra grams are an issue, I'll hope that economy of using a stick will occur to them.
@@stuartbray I meant when mixing the base and catalyst. I'd be afraid of someone using latex gloves or not getting an even enough mix. I like to use my hands to "brush on" as well, but I always mix with a paint stick just so I can get a good fast, but thorough mix with as little waste as possible. I always just use my hands for plaster or a drill mixer. Then after I pour the silicone the stick helps with bucket clean up (instant pull plug! If I'm making multiple batches) while letting me know if it's set or not. Again not bashing or anything. I was just curious to your thought process.
That is a LOT of layering procedure, surely it could have been done more simplistically
Certainly it could
And if you want to use a human to make a silicone mould mould make sure you use skin safe. Also make sure you stuff straws up his nostrils and one in the humans mouth as you want your human to still be breathing after an hour or two.
I would never advise straws in the nose, as knocking that and carving a groove into the nasal cavity isn't great. It also distorts the nose and lays flat over the lips and gets in the way of business.
I 3D scan nowadays instead life cast in the main. So much more accurate and comfortable.
@@BattlesWithBitsofRubber no computer in my day. No videos in my day. And no books just pamphlets with silly drawings on them so I learned the hard way with all the other oldys but knowledge was handed down and nice to see we where able to hand it over to the more advanced technology of today. But I see your point with the nostrils but still think it's a great idea to use skin safe on the human skin and pop a straw in the mouth if you choose the old fashioned way of the old school mould maker.
Naturally you'd use a skin safe silicone for life casting. This video is about making a master mould from a plaster, so this video isn't about skin safe materials. I have done life casting videos where this is the subject.
I too grew up learning from old school techniques and masters. It amazing actually how much you appreciate the new tech having spent 30 years never having it.
I worry that mould makers who only use digital won't have the hands one experience to appreciate the benefits of being able to print up moulds and mould jackets.
There's nothing like hands on experience.
@@BattlesWithBitsofRubber I'm sorry if I come across telling you how to make a mould that's not my intention im saying this for new mould makers watching your video. I seen some on on you tube make a two part plaster mould of some ones hand then try to open it with a Stanley knife on the person's hand. I also seen a guy taking a fibreglass mould half from another man's torso and struggling for a while you heard him taring it of. I could not believe it. So it's just in case some one gets ideas from your video. It's obvious to you and me but not to others
@@michaelpearson1272 yow! That madness. You seen the lifecast video of a woman who has her head thru a hole in the table and a box built around it?
They filled the box with alginate and it pushed away the straw up her nose and basically she started to panic and nearly drowned. Gave me the heebee jeebees.
👍👍
Correct volume...2low!!
Honey it's just your duplicate...
Did you say “unfortunately it’s called a flange”? 😂😂
If so, why???
In the UK, 'Flange' is urban dictionary language which can refer to a lady's undercarriage.
As a child, I hated my mom and dads death mask...I still dont like them . just a heads up if you have children.........