I enjoy watching your videos, I work on some Aluminum Silicon Nitride Hybrid Boards also very common in Industrial Automation and some Automotive, I agree 100% They are a PITA but Preheat with hot air and as large of tip as you can safely use make it simpler. I used to use Hakko FM-203 I really did not like doing Aluminum PCB's it seemed way under powered but manageable. I then changed to JBC DDE stations and the thermal transfer & recovery was amazing resulting less preheat and less hot air temps/dwell time making the repairs more reasonable. For Hot air I use a Quick TR1300A on the smaller stuff i use the Quick TR1100.
I use kapton tape in the area around the device I'm replacing, leaving just a little open square around the device. Two to three layers of tape seems to work for me. This way, even if the solder on the near components liquefies, you dont lose any of them, and their location is known.
@@blackhorserepairs Agree. Apologies, badly worded question, I was wondering about anything external (across the coil etc), in my guesswork as to why they may fail (probably just old age).
@@ralphj4012 my guess would be cheap replacement coils, perhaps wiring... hard to say, but I don't think it's the transistor that is at fault, short like that indicates overvoltage
I just blast these mosfets with concentrated hot air, no adding fresh solder. Like 90% air at 480c. Takes exactly 3 seconds to take them off, and that is not enough time for surrounding area to get overly hot. I bought some from China, and those were slightly different looking than the originals or the ones I get from France. Those were cheap, yes, but I decided to not trust them and they will go to some other project, that is not automotive. Because I doubt those from CHN are automotive grade.
low melt won't make it under the transistor, I added leaded solder to the drain but it didn't make much difference. I should have just used full blast. Sorry I caused you pain :)
@@blackhorserepairsit does, you apply low melt to your iron with a big tip, add flux, put the iron against the bottom heatsink pad and hold. It works every time.
![ค้างคืนโรงเก็บกระสวยอวกาศร้างกลางทะเลทราย [Around The World Ep. 3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E5bWZQhABJE/mqdefault.jpg)
Really appreciate your videos. Learning alot
Awesome, thank you!
Thnks goid method slawly and beoteful
Thank you too
I enjoy watching your videos, I work on some Aluminum Silicon Nitride Hybrid Boards also very common in Industrial Automation and some Automotive, I agree 100% They are a PITA but Preheat with hot air and as large of tip as you can safely use make it simpler. I used to use Hakko FM-203 I really did not like doing Aluminum PCB's it seemed way under powered but manageable. I then changed to JBC DDE stations and the thermal transfer & recovery was amazing resulting less preheat and less hot air temps/dwell time making the repairs more reasonable. For Hot air I use a Quick TR1300A on the smaller stuff i use the Quick TR1100.
I use kapton tape in the area around the device I'm replacing, leaving just a little open square around the device. Two to three layers of tape seems to work for me. This way, even if the solder on the near components liquefies, you dont lose any of them, and their location is known.
Great tip! Thank you so much
Very good. Curious as to whether those IGBTs have flywheel diodes or full snubbers fitted (I have no knowledge of vehicle electronics).
Yes they do, as far as I know every IGBT comes with flyback diode
@@blackhorserepairs Agree. Apologies, badly worded question, I was wondering about anything external (across the coil etc), in my guesswork as to why they may fail (probably just old age).
@@ralphj4012 my guess would be cheap replacement coils, perhaps wiring... hard to say, but I don't think it's the transistor that is at fault, short like that indicates overvoltage
I just blast these mosfets with concentrated hot air, no adding fresh solder. Like 90% air at 480c. Takes exactly 3 seconds to take them off, and that is not enough time for surrounding area to get overly hot.
I bought some from China, and those were slightly different looking than the originals or the ones I get from France. Those were cheap, yes, but I decided to not trust them and they will go to some other project, that is not automotive. Because I doubt those from CHN are automotive grade.
Use weixy/auto-chips, you will not regret, of course only downside is MOQ
Installing damaged ceramic capacitors on the board is not the best solution.
true that
Low melt and flux should be used here. Stops you over heating the board. A little bit painful to watch, after 20 yrs as a solderer.
low melt won't make it under the transistor, I added leaded solder to the drain but it didn't make much difference. I should have just used full blast. Sorry I caused you pain :)
@@blackhorserepairsit does, you apply low melt to your iron with a big tip, add flux, put the iron against the bottom heatsink pad and hold. It works every time.