Part number and source for the caps. I have 4 T coils to rebuild. Thanks! I want to get this running next summer. th-cam.com/video/AHWHwVzbYLg/w-d-xo.html
@@dans_Learning_Curve www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Film-Capacitors/_/N-9x371?keyword=.47%20uF%20400V. Look for film (metalized polyester) capacitors. Both dipped and box-type should be fine. Look for temperature rating - the higher the better.
Another Mustie1 migrant here. I absolutely love watching guys like you share knowledge on this older technology. I absolutely would love to see more of the work done to this type of coil and more of the information behind it. Great video!
FYI I use both 6 volt and 12 volt sealed batteries like the one in this video. These are used in radio controlled air plane field boxes and have a life expectation of about one year and then are replaced. I decided to check one old one out inside. The cover plate is spot glued on the top and comes off with a little gentle prying. Under this is some vent caps that have a one way rubber valve. The vent gasses during use and charging. Inside I found empty cells. After filling them with distilled water I put the battery on a slow charger foe 12 hours. It charged to full capacity and I'm still using it five years later. I have added water about every six months. Just like the old car battery's, if they are serviced correctly, they last for a very long time. Try it, it's easy and saves a lot of money.
Have 3 model T . I can remember my dad in the early 70s picking out the tar to get to the cap to replace it. Came over from mustie to see if your doing right lol
Found you from mustie1. Great video. Thanks for helping mustie. Picked up one of those buzz coils at an antique store a few years ago. Now I know how to work on it. New subscriber, thanks
I know from working on tube car radios, the buffer capacitor can make a huge difference in how the high voltage vibrator runs, which works similarly to how these buzz box coils work. If the cap is the wrong value, or leaky, the vibrator either won't start, or it will run at the wrong frequency, and will usually have a very abbreviated life at that point.
For removal of such potting compounds from electronic circuits a common technique is to use a hot air tool (as used on soldering re-work stations) set to a temperature that just melts the compound, because chipping off the old bitumen whilst cold can stress and damage the components it is embedding - for example small circuit boards. A ventilation/extraction system needs to be provided because the fumes are quite nasty.
Yeah, really didn't get to see anything at all. He really could have cut this video down to showing the buzz box with a weak spark and then cutting to the end where you have a hot spark. 10 second video. He then could have just explained that he replaced the capacitor. It was interesting, but he seemed to want to NOT show us the particulars, so that we really don't know how to do it, so people might come to him and have it done. I don't blame him for that, but it makes for an annoying video, at least, for me. My whole reason to watch it was to see the insides with the tar removed. It was still a good video and I did learn a little bit, but just didn't get to see what I wanted. It is really a me problem and not a Rob problem.
Great stuff, I was watching Mustie1's video and he mentioned you and that you have fixed one of his coils so I thought id come check out what you did. Very interesting.
How warm would it need to be to get the tar to run out? That is: Can you prop it up cleverly in an old toaster? Or will it have to get too hot for some component?
I tried that method once and would advise against it, makes a complete mess and stinks. However, of you want to try, I put mine in an electric range set at 350°F open side down and had a catch pan under it. You have to watch it constantly to be sure you don't begin to singe the wood.
The potting is not really tar though, is it? It looks like it is an asphalt. What type number asphalt did they use and do the less ductile higher softening temperature types have problems breaking wires when fracturing like glass at lower temperatures?
Well, not wood tar, anyway. But TARMAC is really not tar either but asphalt (and macadam or crushed rock). Go figure English language mixed with colloquial terms.
@@milantrcka121 Tarmac when invented was tar and macadam. Asphalt was not involved. Asphalt's existence was likely hardly known at the time. Tarmac comes before the petroleum industry and before the concept of below ground petroleum deposits that could be extracted by digging or drilling wells. I don't know when asphalt replaced tar in Tarmac. Tarmac was the first name used for airport apron pavement. One might think Macadam alone was too dusty for the airplane engines and therefore Tarmac was a good choice for the apron area pavement. The petroleum industry was developed enough by that time. One might assume asphalt, perhaps as an industry bi-product, was in that early apron Tarmac instead of tar. Taking advantage of the English language, as every road builder likes to joke, "It's not my asphalt. It is your asphalt.". ;) For me, "blacktop" was the common word and there was literally a layer of asphalt poured on the roads that sometimes bubbled in the summer heat. Searching for and popping the "tar bubbles" in bare feet was a summer pastime.
@@allanseidel5070 Interesting treatise on the above subject: theconstructor.org/building/asphalt-bitumen-tar-types-difference-comparison/17273/. Nothing is ever easy...
@@allanseidel5070 ha ha I used to do the same thing with my bare feet, remember it well, haven't thought about that for years and years the warm soft "tar" felt fantastic on the feet, especially when you found a nice big patch thanks for bringing me back
![ภาพนี้ก็ฮาเหมือนกันนะเนี้ย #2 SS8 [ พากย์นรก MEME.EXE ] | easy boy](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RMhUgxxD49Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks to all the new subscribers and for the nice comments about helping Mustie1.
Another new sub from Mustie here, looking forward to watching your content!
great vid, big difference
Thanks Buddy. Need to do a follow-up on how to set the current draw.
Part number and source for the caps. I have 4 T coils to rebuild. Thanks!
I want to get this running next summer. th-cam.com/video/AHWHwVzbYLg/w-d-xo.html
@@dans_Learning_Curve It's a regular Metalized polyester capacitor or Film capacitor. Try Amazon: www.amazon.com/s?k=400V+0.47uF&ref=nb_sb_noss
Funny seeing you here @mustie 1 lol ....great repair thanks Rob !!
@@dans_Learning_Curve www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Film-Capacitors/_/N-9x371?keyword=.47%20uF%20400V. Look for film (metalized polyester) capacitors. Both dipped and box-type should be fine. Look for temperature rating - the higher the better.
Came over from Mustie, great work. Really cool.
Great presentation! Mustie sent me over for a look. Well done on the fix.
Another Mustie1 sub here. Thanks for helping him out!
Coming from Mustie1 here as well. Great fix Rob.
Dear buzz coil specialist.
Thanks a lot for helping great Mustie1.
Best regards luck and health.
Came by way of Mustie1. Nice, informative video! Keep them coming. Otherwise that old tech knowledge will be lost.
Came over from Mustie1 video nice job worked great!
Fixing old stuff always amaze me. Fixing stuff as been down the drain for decades. Thank you for sharing.
Mustie is very grateful. He sent us all over for a look. Nice that you know how they work and what is the common failure
Another Mustie1 migrant here. I absolutely love watching guys like you share knowledge on this older technology. I absolutely would love to see more of the work done to this type of coil and more of the information behind it. Great video!
Excellent video for first try. Very helpful. Pls do more.
More to come!
FYI I use both 6 volt and 12 volt sealed batteries like the one in this video. These are used in radio controlled air plane field boxes and have a life expectation of about one year and then are replaced. I decided to check one old one out inside. The cover plate is spot glued on the top and comes off with a little gentle prying. Under this is some vent caps that have a one way rubber valve. The vent gasses during use and charging. Inside I found empty cells. After filling them with distilled water I put the battery on a slow charger foe 12 hours. It charged to full capacity and I'm still using it five years later. I have added water about every six months. Just like the old car battery's, if they are serviced correctly, they last for a very long time. Try it, it's easy and saves a lot of money.
Good stuff Bud!! I didn't know that's how you adjust them!!☺
Thanks, much appreciated! There's more on adjustment but that'll be another video.
Mustie 1 sent me, great explanation. I would be interested in seeing the old coil without the tar if you were to take it down to that far.
Oh, a Mustie follower, too.
Have 3 model T . I can remember my dad in the early 70s picking out the tar to get to the cap to replace it. Came over from mustie to see if your doing right lol
Mustie sent me here, and I really enjoyed the video. Thanks Rob, Have a great day !
Found you from mustie1. Great video. Thanks for helping mustie. Picked up one of those buzz coils at an antique store a few years ago. Now I know how to work on it. New subscriber, thanks
cheers from a mustie viewer
I know from working on tube car radios, the buffer capacitor can make a huge difference in how the high voltage vibrator runs, which works similarly to how these buzz box coils work.
If the cap is the wrong value, or leaky, the vibrator either won't start, or it will run at the wrong frequency, and will usually have a very abbreviated life at that point.
Nice video and explaination on how these work. It was fun seeing it in action over on Musties channel.
For removal of such potting compounds from electronic circuits a common technique is to use a hot air tool (as used on soldering re-work stations) set to a temperature that just melts the compound, because chipping off the old bitumen whilst cold can stress and damage the components it is embedding - for example small circuit boards. A ventilation/extraction system needs to be provided because the fumes are quite nasty.
Great job for a first video. I have an old "T" coil which does not work, and this is quite interesting/useful information.
Nice video. Interesting to see the inside of the buzz-coil. Came by way of Mustie1.
This video is a breath of fresh air, when compared to Crusty1... he is clearly out of his league!
This os good Infro, new cars today are crap , I think the Ts and TT are looking better every day.
Thanks for watching
Found this from a Musti! link. Thanks for your repair.
Nice collab. You guest it, a Mustie1 viewer.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
This is super interesting, thank you for the video!
Thanks for watching
Came over from @Mustie1 channel to see your vid interesting stuff you do.
Have subbed to your channel great job Rob.
Great video came over from musties channel
Model T guy referred by Mustie. Thanks!
Another visitor from Mustie1, from the UK.
Interesting info-I had a "T" years ago, and was wondering about these coils-cool!
You did great, nice job.
Excellent explanation Sir! Mustie1 sent me.
Great job! Nice vid and very interesting.
loved the video hope to see more
I would like to see you dig one out & replace parts .
Yeah, really didn't get to see anything at all. He really could have cut this video down to showing the buzz box with a weak spark and then cutting to the end where you have a hot spark. 10 second video. He then could have just explained that he replaced the capacitor.
It was interesting, but he seemed to want to NOT show us the particulars, so that we really don't know how to do it, so people might come to him and have it done. I don't blame him for that, but it makes for an annoying video, at least, for me. My whole reason to watch it was to see the insides with the tar removed.
It was still a good video and I did learn a little bit, but just didn't get to see what I wanted. It is really a me problem and not a Rob problem.
Very informative. I enjoyed this video a lot. Thanks for making it. Mustie 1 sent me, but I have subscribed so as to watch your future videos.
Thanks for helping out mustie1
Great video!!!Mustie forced us over here :) haha Subed
Great stuff, I was watching Mustie1's video and he mentioned you and that you have fixed one of his coils so I thought id come check out what you did. Very interesting.
Awesome, thank you!
Me too, another Mustie 1 sub, nice one mate, atb from England
"The other guy" a.k.a. Mustie1!!!
good video cheers
Good video. Very informative. Thank you for sharing.
And .. Who the he** disliked this?
The idiot who doesn’t know what their looking at
Like many others Mustie sent me.
How warm would it need to be to get the tar to run out? That is: Can you prop it up cleverly in an old toaster? Or will it have to get too hot for some component?
I tried that method once and would advise against it, makes a complete mess and stinks. However, of you want to try, I put mine in an electric range set at 350°F open side down and had a catch pan under it. You have to watch it constantly to be sure you don't begin to singe the wood.
Darren send us.
Where to do get the capacitor to fix the buzz coils
I purchase mine from Lang's Model T
The potting is not really tar though, is it? It looks like it is an asphalt. What type number asphalt did they use and do the less ductile higher softening temperature types have problems breaking wires when fracturing like glass at lower temperatures?
Well, not wood tar, anyway. But TARMAC is really not tar either but asphalt (and macadam or crushed rock). Go figure English language mixed with colloquial terms.
@@milantrcka121 Tarmac when invented was tar and macadam. Asphalt was not involved. Asphalt's existence was likely hardly known at the time. Tarmac comes before the petroleum industry and before the concept of below ground petroleum deposits that could be extracted by digging or drilling wells.
I don't know when asphalt replaced tar in Tarmac. Tarmac was the first name used for airport apron pavement. One might think Macadam alone was too dusty for the airplane engines and therefore Tarmac was a good choice for the apron area pavement. The petroleum industry was developed enough by that time. One might assume asphalt, perhaps as an industry bi-product, was in that early apron Tarmac instead of tar.
Taking advantage of the English language, as every road builder likes to joke, "It's not my asphalt. It is your asphalt.". ;)
For me, "blacktop" was the common word and there was literally a layer of asphalt poured on the roads that sometimes bubbled in the summer heat. Searching for and popping the "tar bubbles" in bare feet was a summer pastime.
@@allanseidel5070 Interesting treatise on the above subject: theconstructor.org/building/asphalt-bitumen-tar-types-difference-comparison/17273/. Nothing is ever easy...
@@allanseidel5070 ha ha I used to do the same thing with my bare feet, remember it well, haven't thought about that for years and years the warm soft "tar" felt fantastic on the feet, especially when you found a nice big patch thanks for bringing me back
Came over from Mustie1 video nice job worked great!