So I purchased one of these as I do a lot of heat shrink on fine gauge wire and connections. I tore it apart and did install a Samsung 30Q. A continuous test run from fully charged gave 19 minutes and 20 seconds before shutdown. No increase in heat of the chassis or battery. Highly recommend if you decide you want one of these and have the electrical skill as it is quite dangerous.
Interesting. That's a good run time with the 30Q. Interesting there was no extra heat, I think it's already pulling about 40-50 Watts so I guess a few more watts wouldn't make a lot of difference.
I use a cheap hot air gun to shrink small heat shrink tubes (at much lower temperature than when reflowing smd). For large wires nothing beats a big hot air gun with with a J or U-shaped front to blow hot air in the back side too at the same time. (Unfortunately my gun with such attachment was destroyed and I currently have no such head to direct air flow with my current heat gun)
Yeah that would be good. I think a PD board would be great. The circuit is designed for 3-5V but a regulator could solve that. A redesign around 12V would make it work much better.
@@andykirby I would even bet, that one could drive the heating element at a higher voltage - at least, if I'd had to design this circuit, I'd drive the heating element low-side with a MOSFET, so one side of the heating element might be connect to the +4V from the battery, and the other switched to ground. In that case one might be able to power the logic and fan with a dc to dc converter, and configure the pd trigger to supply the heating element with 12V
Looks like some kind of herb vaporiser. If you want a firestarter run off 18650's, those 'plasma lighters' create an arc. Pretty cheap to purchase.
I'd like one which runs on a Makita pack. DHG181ZJ doesn't give a wattage or say if it's brushless.
So I purchased one of these as I do a lot of heat shrink on fine gauge wire and connections. I tore it apart and did install a Samsung 30Q. A continuous test run from fully charged gave 19 minutes and 20 seconds before shutdown. No increase in heat of the chassis or battery. Highly recommend if you decide you want one of these and have the electrical skill as it is quite dangerous.
Interesting. That's a good run time with the 30Q. Interesting there was no extra heat, I think it's already pulling about 40-50 Watts so I guess a few more watts wouldn't make a lot of difference.
Oddly I was looking at this today on Amazon. The best compact ones are the ones that run on Lighter fuel...Butane I think...🤔😳😏🇬🇧
Great minds! Yeah if you want efficient heat then the best way is to still burn something.
@@andykirby Yeah, Amazon do a nice miniature one for £50...Runs two hours in a fill....2 hours!!..😳😏😀
I use a cheap hot air gun to shrink small heat shrink tubes (at much lower temperature than when reflowing smd). For large wires nothing beats a big hot air gun with with a J or U-shaped front to blow hot air in the back side too at the same time. (Unfortunately my gun with such attachment was destroyed and I currently have no such head to direct air flow with my current heat gun)
deffo replace the cell with something quality and do a comparison test. a sony vtc6 would be interesting.
Wow! I love these innovative things!
looks good.
Have you still got the studio ?
you havent done any vids from there in a while
Thanks, I sold my flat which was where the studio was setup.
@@andykirby ah cool. I understand.
Now you need a mega shed in the garden lol
Yes exactly that!😁
@@andykirby You need a Colin Furze Bunker Shed dude!
Thank you
One should maybe replace that li-ion with a USB pd trigger and some Supercaps - essentially make it wired, but so it can run off 12V USB PD
Yeah that would be good. I think a PD board would be great. The circuit is designed for 3-5V but a regulator could solve that. A redesign around 12V would make it work much better.
@@andykirby I would even bet, that one could drive the heating element at a higher voltage - at least, if I'd had to design this circuit, I'd drive the heating element low-side with a MOSFET, so one side of the heating element might be connect to the +4V from the battery, and the other switched to ground. In that case one might be able to power the logic and fan with a dc to dc converter, and configure the pd trigger to supply the heating element with 12V
You might even get two videos from it - reverse engineering the existing PCB and implementing a cooler solution
send it to dude stuff have him slap a bigger battery on it
09:52 yeah thats what she said.
Think will stick with My 240V one Andy, under £12 until it packs in 30 Sheets seems too much dosh for the times its used tbh
Yeah mains powered for the win!
That's not a bad little heatgun for the odd hobbies heat shrinking job for the price.
💙👊😎
SolderPro gas 120. Thank me later ;) had mine 25 years!