I know that this is a 3 year old video, but this is such a useful guide that has helped me iron out all of the issues that I was having as a complete newbie to PHD2 and APT, cannot wait to get a clear night to begin my first long-term project! Thank you Trevor ^^
I keep coming to your channel often to get new ideas. Even this older content is helping many of us. I just decided to got with APT and PHD2 on my laptop. I grew supremely frustrated getting Astroberry to work with an SVBony SV305 Pro and I don't want to purchase a bunch of ZWO gear to replace everything. Thank you for this tutorial, Trevor!
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I have had a guiding issue for a month or so now and your video just solved my problem. I re-checked the focal length of the scope in PHD2 and it was incorrect. Guiding is now once again back on track. Just love your videos
Hi Trevor. Tom from France, very good video ! You're kinda teacher for me since 1 year. I use to watch French astrophotography tutorials, but deeper I get down the rabbit hole, the more I appreciate your videos, and especially tutorials. (I love your gorgeous acquisition nights but you're like millions Light years away from me in terms of results !) So, just thank you for your work, which is absolutely inspirating ! Bye. Tom
Trevor, this was immensely helpful for me and I'm sure for many of us AP nubes. There seems to be a real upswell in people wanting to do AP since we have all been cooped up at home duing the pandemic. Your passion and enthusiasm for this craft really comes through and it's why I really enjoy watching your channel! Please keep them coming!
N.I.N.A. is the future of astrophotography automation. Clean interface, powerful, and free! I switched from APT and love it. Good video as always though. 👍
Nina is getting good reviews 👍 but for me I’m awaiting apt 3.90 which will unlock dslr drivers for use with indigosky so I can control everything from my house via pi4 using APT server on mount , which at the moment Nina can’t do .
If someday I can be even half as good as you, I'll be quite satisfied, but I won't stop trying. Thank you very much for all the time you spend helping noobs like me to learn and practice and grow!
Good honest video, Trevor. I use Maxim DL but watched this right through as I always like to keep up with the latest gear and tech and you explain things so well. Your number of subscribers is no accident! 👍🏻
I'm getting back into astrophotography. You are absolutely correct about guiding.. if you don't have a good polar alignment and perfectly balanced scope with all cables connected, then you will have a rough night.. I used and will continue to use my old atlas eq-g .. I get perfectly round stars every time if I keep my routine simple. And thanks for this APT tutorial.. I use to use dslrfocus for camera control..
Very good video. I will start learning APT soon. Loved your rant at 21.40 about PHD2. I have fell into that trap of looking at the graph and not the actual pictures.
This is a great video for me. I'm just now learning APT and this video hit the highlights of what I intend to use it for. Would love to see a video on using APT with plate solving if you haven't already done one. Thanks again Trevor.
Great job as usual Trevor and thank you very much for the shout out! I am glad you mentioned the guiding graph, very informative. You are quit right I am always hearing or reading in forums and such about what the graph looks like. I usually just worry about the the Total value not in the parenthesis which was actually low on yours - Good call, just look at the images. I still use the the Bahtinov mask as well in APT as I don't really like how the Focus Aid works either. I tried the Auto Focus Aid since I have the ZWO EAF and thought I had it working well but it not consistent so I end up going back to the Bahtinov. After reading a couple of post from Ivaylo, the problem maybe in Autofocus settings but will see. Thanks for these videos.
Trevor thanks for your RANT on the RMS graph. Yes all of the settings need to be set properly for the most accurate portrayal of the mounts tracking, however (as you noted) the mount isn’t the only factor influencing the “corrections” PHD2 administers. Seeing conditions, temperature variations, airflow and a number of other environmental forces are in play. The best advice you gave was to take a look at your image before condemning the capture from the PHD2 graph. Great content as usual.
A big thanks for this tutorial, very helpful to me as I am just getting into this amazing hobby. Also found all of the others items on this channel just as good.
Another great and informative video Trevor....👍 Even though I have been using the software for sometime I still enjoyed watching it. A couple of things that I do which might be of interest (or not) are:- 1. I set up the filter I’m going to use in the “plan editor” 2. I push the gain of my camera up to reduce the number seconds need to see the object, especially if you’re trying to frame it, just don’t forget to put it back before starting your imaging run which I’ve done on more than a couple of occasions....☹️ 3. I use the crosshairs and move it over a bright star so if I have to move away from the object to re-focus its easy to bring it back to the correct position. Like you I still do this with the handset.
Great vid Trevor, considering it's been done out in the field so to speak. Well done! I'm getting back into this stuff having been away from it for about 4 years, so I needed a refresher - amazing how much you forget 😁
That was great Trevor, explained some good stuff there. I started using APT about 2 months ago with my 5D mkii and just switched to an asi533mc pro. You cleared up some stuff things for me here. Thanks, and clear skies bud.
Haven't used APT for some time now. Have been using SGP. This video makes me want to revisit APT again. There are some features I really like with it. Excellent video and less technical and simple works better for me also. I have a technical 8 to 5 job and prefer my hobbies not be so difficult. Makes it much more fun.
Thanks, this is just what I needed. Getting ready to do some deep sky stuff after doing solar and planetary imaging for the last 6 months. When I went to start imaging last night, I realized it's almost like starting from scratch going from imaging really bright objects to deep sky stuff. I used Sharp Cap for all of that imaging, but looks like I need something more specifically made for deep sky stuff now.
EQ8R = Equator, right? ;-) I just recently got an EQM35 Pro, so I'm watching your videos with a great deal of interest and making lists of things that I need to do, need to NOT do, and need to consider acquiring in the future. I don't have a telescope, but I do have a few really good lenses, so once I get acquainted with my mount and start experimenting, I hope to eventually start getting images that will make me glad I stepped up and got a mount. (I've never had one or operated one, so this is all new to me at this point!) Thank you very much for taking the time and effort to share what you do and how you do it, plus your honest insights on software and hardware!
You definetly have inspired me starbuddy, ordered a cam and stuff. Thanks for your work and i do really like your style, always fun AND things to learn.
Great video, as always, on APT Trevor...but plate solving (Pointcraft in APT) lies in your future...make it so! Plate solving is to star alignment and framing targets as polemaster is to polar alignment!
I’m always thinking that if the PhD2 RMS graph isn’t displaying some sort of variance the it’s not doing anything. I ALWAYS go by how the image appears. APT looks interesting so I might need to check it out.
can a finderscope be used as a guiderscope by replacing the eyepiece with a guidercamera (which then connects via ethernet-cable to the mount, and via usb-cable to the computer running PHD2)?
What could be the problem when the program attempts to open but doesn't and just closes? I've looked up different issues just can't figure what the issue is..
Don't panic Chuck, SGP is easily the best option but APT is cheap and for beginners like me it's great. But SGP one day for sure so keep doing what you're doing as I'll need to get up on on it one day.
Perfect, thanks Trevor. APT is fantastic with the DSLR. I have seen some people suggest the order in which you open these programs matters, particularly if you are also using ASCOM mount control and a planetarium program like CDC. I don’t know if that’s true, but I have had to restart PHD2 and CDC on occasion.
Nice concise review of APT. All AP management apps should at some point definitely incorporate a plate solver to grow with the user. Eventually we find that certain targets will just squeeze in based upon our sensor size and focal length and we need to precisely align to get the best framing :). Cheers.
agreed. Might also be worth pointing out that the phd2 focal length setting is that of the scope used for guiding. In the case of the video, the main scope because you were using OAG but otherwise the piggy-back one. Great video. Keep them coming...
Trevor might i ask a video about calibrating the skyguider's polar scope and the reticle? Ive noticed when i turn the polar scope to align polaris in the correct time position, the whole scape does not stay centered. It is normal for the scape to turn with the twisting of the polar scope, but when it moves with the scope, it is off centered.
Hi Trevor, I appreciate all your videos, website and info. It's been a big help. I purchased a WO GT71, WO 50mm guide scope, ASI290mm, HEQ5, Power Box, FocusCube, Polemaster, and other goodies and waiting for my modded Canon to be returned hopefully this week. I have everything up and running and connected (Running remote to my laptop with a powered USB Hub and a Power Tank attached to the Mount). I'm hoping to take my first try at imaging this weekend if the weather permits. The question is: In your video you mentioned the different methods of guiding which is not clear to me. I've seen where the Guide Camera is hooked to the mount (ST4) and connecting the camera and mount through PHD2. I've also seen other setups without the ST4 and I'm assuming feeding the data back to APT (Which I am also using) and letting it adjust the mount from the guiding data from PHD2. Or am I missing something? Currently I have a USB from the Synscan to my laptop in addition to the USB to the Guide Camera in addition to the ST4 between guide camera and mount. Seems like I shouldn't need the ST4 cable and let APT\PHD2 do their thing. Again, thanks for all the great info.
just wondering what would be the process of turning your image from well black and white into a bit of color obviously im not expecing high graphical images im using an old nikon d300s and a really slow laptop as well protability but i would like to know what post processing id need to do to get it looking more colorful
@AstroBackyard - I’m having a little trouble using PHD2 and the Skyguider Pro. Do you have a video or a link to a video that shows how to use the PHD2 without a declaration axis? I’m having a really hard time with this.
so are you saying that if I have my mount is connected directly via rs232/USB that PHD-2 guiding will work through APT without the st4 connection through the camera or a shoestring astronomy adapter?
Awesome video as always and get that rabbit Rudy! Thank you again! I find APT to be great and user friendly. I love the point craft and plate solving. With EDMOD and my Atlas it works great! Also, I think a lot of people should have two image acquisition programs at hand. You never know when one acts up or an issue develops and the other program saves the day.
Amazing video, thank you very much. Did you say you have the guide camera thepugh the main telescope? Or through a guide scope, you said on phd2 it was 1000mm fl. I have a 1500mm fl, how would be best to set up my guiding?
Strange question for which someone might know the answer...in my APT, the histogram window is movable, but it's tall and skinny. I can't seem to resize it. I'd love to get more detail out of it by widening it like you have it, Trevor. I'm using version 3.71...is it possible that they changed this between 3.63 and 3.71, and now we're stuck with a "tall and skinny" histogram? Trevor, this is truly an amazing video. HELPFUL and awesome. Thank you!
It's probably different with CCD/CMOS cameras but I know that you should use high numbers (15-20) for your dithering when shooting OSC with DSLR's as you want the image to shift more than the average size of your color mottle areas, otherwise you're stacking color mottle noise on top of itself which will be picked up as signal when stacking.
Really good video that, I'm just starting into guiding and imaging with my AzGti in EQ mode so just getting my head around it all and simpler setups with my laptop
Great videos - Took some 1 sec subs of Orion tonight with a 135/2.8. I have been looking for APT - it seems to have disappeared. None of the links work - all time out on multiple browsers. Do you know of a mirror location or where I could find it? Thanks!
Honestly reassuring to see someone else with a "bad guide graph". I have the EQ6R and some people get like a laser straight graph all the way through but mines definitely not a laser and wondered if it was a problem or not. It's good to know I'm not the only one lol
Trevor I wonder, do you know if the rotary encoder of the EQ8 Pro R is purely for positioning or if it also provides feedback to close the motor control loop? Really is time for a pier now that you have moved. I have never used the tripod of my CGX beyond indoors testing. CGX lives permanently on the pier with a heaver weather proof bag over it. Perhaps not the best solution for Canukistan however.
I have the data cable connected to my laptop from my t3i and it's connected with APT and I can control it but I have no live view on camera or laptop screen. It's probably something simple but I'm stumped nonetheless lol. Any suggestions? Thanks for all that you've taught thus far! Tim
I like your videos but is there an order I should watch them in for just learning APT. Numbering the videos would be great. Also I am having trouble with star trails and wondered about tracking. Pointcraft does the solving but I can't get good (> 1 minute) tracking.
Trevor or others, where is the pop up window with the "auto stretch" left & right? Have never seen this pop up window, nor do I understand if it's related to the LiveView or part of the exposure plan. When you selected auto stretch left or right, exactly what is this doing with the preview? Needless to say, every time I watch one of your videos, I learn something. Thanks for your great contributions to the hobby, Jim
Hi Trevor. Do you know if APT has an option for mosaic? I was looking for something to make a mosaic because 800edgeHD's FOV isn't that big. If the weather over here is getting better i want to make my 1st mosaic. For now my plan is: Use EQmosaic. Shoot the panels once with EQmosaic and check if it's OK. Then use APT, load that panel/lightframe and blind solve in pointcraft for position to shoot the panels. I see you don't use pointcraft and was wondering how you shoot a mosaic? Btw pointcraft is very nice, i just load the lightframe from my last session, blind solve it and it goes to my object exactly like the last session. Also have Stellarium connected and sync it with pointcraft. So when i use the sensorframe(right top in Stellarium) i have the exact FOV of my imaging-camera and OAG-camera. Would be nice to see the framing of the mosaic there, but i was never able to find anything about mosaics. Maybe you found something and thx for all the info you give!!!
Rob no mosaic aid so far but please tell Ivo on the apt forum you would like it. he is talking about it for over a year now but always puts something else on his priority list :-( you can use hnsky for mosaics with apt but thats not what I am looking for.
@@realmcerono I like to stick to APT and Stellarium. I've seen software (maybe it was HNSKY, but i forgot) that could do what i wanted, that is showing the panels. I think there was a plugin or extra software to do that, but when i went for the download it wasn't available anymore. Think i go ask Ivo :).
@@realmcerono The answer was.....Cart du Ciel or HNSKY. Well i gonna stick with Stellarium(Stellariumscope) for now and try EQmosaic. If i'm gonna make a switch to other software it's probably gonna be N.I.N.A.
Quick question, I'm new to the whole astronomy stuff, but can you see galaxies and Jupiter and such with heavy light pollution? (Like south of The Netherlands heavy?) Please answer because I don't want to buy a telescope only to find out I can't see anything through it.
In a few places lately, I've read that it's good to calibrate PHD on a star that's far from the meridian, not necessarily close to your target. It's supposed to prevent the "minimal south movement detected" error, if you're having that. But, I've also read to calibrate close to your target, as you've done. Does anybody know the pros/cons of both scenarios?
Thanks very much, this is one of the most useful videos I have ever seen, I've been following your channel, and learning from you using APT through youtube, and now would like to start using guiding, this video is exactly what I'm looking for. I have just one question on 15:07 about calibrating PHD on the exact area of sky that you are shooting. I was told by our local dealer that PHD calibration should be done in area that is about 90 degree to the north or south pole, that's the area where stars will have the longest trail / stars "move" the most distant, so the calibration data should be more accurate using stars there, then slew to the target, instead of the same area of the target. Would you mind please clarify?
To everyone: I have sony a7c with me and recently got ioptron sky guider pro tracker so which apps/Softwares can I use to take long minutes exposures ??? Is there any intervalometer app which can take 1 minutes long exposure ?? Also APT doesn't support sony cameras
Im starting out with astrophoghraphy and i was wandering if i should get a refracter type telescope or a reflector type telescope. Please some one help
I recommend you to try N.I.N.A.. While I love APT and used it for some time, N.I.N.A. is just a few levels ahead. BTW.: Great rant! Don't get discouraged by some guys with Cloudy Heads ;).
Thank you for the upload. You've gained another sub! I have a huge interest in astro photography but know very little about it. Hoping to learn from your channel.
Me too, just bought my camera and tripod, now i will buy the star tracker, i will be using camera and prime lens (50mm f1.8) maybe i will use crop mode to get to around 80mm. This video is very interesting, i wonder if there is utility in buying this software for my explained setup or this is for when you have a dedicated astrophoto and equatorial mount?
Really good and comprehensive tutorial! How can one work out what binning to use? I suppose it's not as straight forward as knowing what camera you have?
How do you review the images captured when they are in FIT format after a session before stacking? Which piece of software? I have seen you use Adobe bridge for RAW photos but that doesn't work for FITs.
Appreciate the rant but my guiding with the ASIair really does stink. :( Fiddled with every setting posible I even got a replacement Meade LX85 mount with similar results but with better DEC numbers. Balance is perfect but I 'm lucky to get 2.0 total error and blurry subs although I do have a 2032mm SCT which makes things difficult. Even with a 6.3 focal reducer ( 1280mm ) results are about the same. Anyone using the ASIair with any tips? Peace!
Highly informative thank you. I would just like to ask a question. In phd2 you said you changed the focal length to 1040 but that was done in the guiding tab. Should this not be the FL of the guide scope rather than your imaging scope?
Great video as always. I'm just starting to get into Deep Space Objects. Going through the learning curve of using the ZWO ASIAir Pro along with the ZWO 30mm f/4 Guide Scope on the Star Adventurer Pro Mount. This may be a dumb questions, but could the Astro Photography Tool be used in conjunction with this setup or do I already have this capability.
Awesome video and thanks for sharing! My question would be does the final image in the video represent your guiding for the evening was under 1 arc sec? Also would it be possible to see any final images you've done where your guiding was over 1 arc second? (such as maybe older images you've done that you know your guiding was over 1 arc sec).. I ask because I've been battling issues with my setup and its been said that even if the stars are round you still can get "bloating" if the guiding isn't as accurate for the night. The test image in the video where the guiding was showing over 2 arc sec looked fantastic and serves as a great point go with your eyes, but i'm wondering if the accuracy was actually under one arc sec because the settings in PHD2 where off temporarily. Again great video and this is my first year imaging deep sky objects and I've been trying to wrap my head around the guiding issues I've had over the past 7 months.
Is this software safe for the computer? When I downloaded it, it said this software may harm your computer. Is there a chance it can harm your computer? I
Hey Trevor thanks for the info. I've had a telescope now for some time now. Is bahtinov mask only helpful with camera or can it be useful for eyepieces as well.
There is a lot of discussion going on about PHD2, the proper guide camera FOV vs the imaging camera FOV ratio, and whether you need to make sure that the guide scope is adjusted to look at the same DEC as the imaging scope. And then there’s the advice given by PHD2 to best calibrate the guide scope on a star within 1hr and 1 degree of the Meridian/Celestial Equator.The most important thing for my imaging is NO WIND!. (I’m lucky if the wind is below 5mph, and the frequent gusts always spoils an image.) The FOV of my guide camera is almost the same as the FOV of the imaging camera. The resolution of my guide camera is about 5”/pixel. The resolution of my imaging camera is close to 1”/pixel. The PHD2 guide graph typically shows close to +/- 0.25 pixel fluctuation for both RA and DEC on a calm night (3 second guiding). If collimation is done right and seeing is good, I always get good, sharp stars. Before I learned how to do Polar Alignment using SharpCap, the guide graph was normally around +/- 2 pixels and very erratic. I owe my most successful imaging to N.I.N.A., which makes auto centering and auto focus a hands-off operation (which I’m sure that other apps can also do, but I can’t argue with free). For exposures under 30 seconds, I really don’t need to do any guiding. I have even stopped dithering because what the Darks don’t get in calibration are eliminated in post processing.
I know that this is a 3 year old video, but this is such a useful guide that has helped me iron out all of the issues that I was having as a complete newbie to PHD2 and APT, cannot wait to get a clear night to begin my first long-term project!
Thank you Trevor ^^
I keep coming to your channel often to get new ideas. Even this older content is helping many of us. I just decided to got with APT and PHD2 on my laptop. I grew supremely frustrated getting Astroberry to work with an SVBony SV305 Pro and I don't want to purchase a bunch of ZWO gear to replace everything. Thank you for this tutorial, Trevor!
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I have had a guiding issue for a month or so now and your video just solved my problem. I re-checked the focal length of the scope in PHD2 and it was incorrect. Guiding is now once again back on track. Just love your videos
It’s good to see you posting how-to videos. I believe you contribute more this way. Clear skies.
Thanks Garnett. Cheers
Hi Trevor. Tom from France, very good video ! You're kinda teacher for me since 1 year. I use to watch French astrophotography tutorials, but deeper I get down the rabbit hole, the more I appreciate your videos, and especially tutorials. (I love your gorgeous acquisition nights but you're like millions Light years away from me in terms of results !) So, just thank you for your work, which is absolutely inspirating ! Bye. Tom
Trevor, this was immensely helpful for me and I'm sure for many of us AP nubes. There seems to be a real upswell in people wanting to do AP since we have all been cooped up at home duing the pandemic. Your passion and enthusiasm for this craft really comes through and it's why I really enjoy watching your channel! Please keep them coming!
This is perfect Trevor. I've never used APT before but now feel primed and ready!
N.I.N.A. is the future of astrophotography automation. Clean interface, powerful, and free! I switched from APT and love it.
Good video as always though. 👍
Hi, I just learnt about N.I.N.A. from your comment.
I'm a SGPro user but i'm not 100% fond of it, I'll give it a try and play with it tonight.
Nina is getting good reviews 👍 but for me I’m awaiting apt 3.90 which will unlock dslr drivers for use with indigosky so I can control everything from my house via pi4 using APT server on mount , which at the moment Nina can’t do .
Thank you so much for all the content lately Trevor! Especially since no quality has been lost. Keep it up.!
If someday I can be even half as good as you, I'll be quite satisfied, but I won't stop trying. Thank you very much for all the time you spend helping noobs like me to learn and practice and grow!
Good honest video, Trevor. I use Maxim DL but watched this right through as I always like to keep up with the latest gear and tech and you explain things so well. Your number of subscribers is no accident! 👍🏻
I'm getting back into astrophotography. You are absolutely correct about guiding.. if you don't have a good polar alignment and perfectly balanced scope with all cables connected, then you will have a rough night.. I used and will continue to use my old atlas eq-g .. I get perfectly round stars every time if I keep my routine simple. And thanks for this APT tutorial.. I use to use dslrfocus for camera control..
Very good video. I will start learning APT soon. Loved your rant at 21.40 about PHD2. I have fell into that trap of looking at the graph and not the actual pictures.
good to see someone doing a start finish and how to with these programs. Well done dude
Fantastic vid Trevor! Your remark about the PHD2 guiding graph is very useful ! Many thanks from cloudy Holland!
This is a great video for me. I'm just now learning APT and this video hit the highlights of what I intend to use it for. Would love to see a video on using APT with plate solving if you haven't already done one. Thanks again Trevor.
Great job as usual Trevor and thank you very much for the shout out! I am glad you mentioned the guiding graph, very informative. You are quit right I am always hearing or reading in forums and such about what the graph looks like. I usually just worry about the the Total value not in the parenthesis which was actually low on yours - Good call, just look at the images. I still use the the Bahtinov mask as well in APT as I don't really like how the Focus Aid works either. I tried the Auto Focus Aid since I have the ZWO EAF and thought I had it working well but it not consistent so I end up going back to the Bahtinov. After reading a couple of post from Ivaylo, the problem maybe in Autofocus settings but will see. Thanks for these videos.
Trevor thanks for your RANT on the RMS graph. Yes all of the
settings need to be set properly for the most accurate portrayal of the mounts
tracking, however (as you noted) the mount isn’t the only factor influencing
the “corrections” PHD2 administers.
Seeing conditions, temperature variations, airflow and a number of other
environmental forces are in play. The best advice you gave was to take a look at your image before condemning the capture from the PHD2 graph. Great content as usual.
A big thanks for this tutorial, very helpful to me as I am just getting into this amazing hobby. Also found all of the others items on this channel just as good.
Another great and informative video Trevor....👍 Even though I have been using the software for sometime I still enjoyed watching it. A couple of things that I do which might be of interest (or not) are:-
1. I set up the filter I’m going to use in the “plan editor”
2. I push the gain of my camera up to reduce the number seconds need to see the object, especially if you’re trying to frame it, just don’t forget to put it back before starting your imaging run which I’ve done on more than a couple of occasions....☹️
3. I use the crosshairs and move it over a bright star so if I have to move away from the object to re-focus its easy to bring it back to the correct position. Like you I still do this with the handset.
Great vid Trevor, considering it's been done out in the field so to speak. Well done! I'm getting back into this stuff having been away from it for about 4 years, so I needed a refresher - amazing how much you forget 😁
I watch your tutorials in awe Trevor ! Nice one 👍 Clear skies from the UK.
Thanks Trevor! Very informative video as usual. Keep up the great work. You have inspired me to get back into the hobby of astronomy after many years.
Awesome! I've been using APT for a while now, and still learned something new :D Thanks!
That was great Trevor, explained some good stuff there. I started using APT about 2 months ago with my 5D mkii and just switched to an asi533mc pro. You cleared up some stuff things for me here. Thanks, and clear skies bud.
Haven't used APT for some time now. Have been using SGP. This video makes me want to revisit APT again. There are some features I really like with it. Excellent video and less technical and simple works better for me also. I have a technical 8 to 5 job and prefer my hobbies not be so difficult. Makes it much more fun.
Brilliant video. The software looks very promising and at the price is definitely worth buying to try out.
Sometimes keeping it simple works! and APT looks like is that choice. Thanks for hands-on guide!
Thanks, this is just what I needed. Getting ready to do some deep sky stuff after doing solar and planetary imaging for the last 6 months.
When I went to start imaging last night, I realized it's almost like starting from scratch going from imaging really bright objects to deep sky stuff. I used Sharp Cap for all of that imaging, but looks like I need something more specifically made for deep sky stuff now.
Nice! I'm not the only Thinkpad user for the astro rig. I got a T520 off eBay for under $200 and I've found its just perfect for astroimagining.
EQ8R = Equator, right? ;-)
I just recently got an EQM35 Pro, so I'm watching your videos with a great deal of interest and making lists of things that I need to do, need to NOT do, and need to consider acquiring in the future.
I don't have a telescope, but I do have a few really good lenses, so once I get acquainted with my mount and start experimenting, I hope to eventually start getting images that will make me glad I stepped up and got a mount. (I've never had one or operated one, so this is all new to me at this point!)
Thank you very much for taking the time and effort to share what you do and how you do it, plus your honest insights on software and hardware!
I recently learned how to use the Pointcraft platesolver. Man that is nice. Lifechanging.
You definetly have inspired me starbuddy, ordered a cam and stuff.
Thanks for your work and i do really like your style, always fun AND
things to learn.
YES! It's finally here! Thanks Trevor!
Great video, as always, on APT Trevor...but plate solving (Pointcraft in APT) lies in your future...make it so! Plate solving is to star alignment and framing targets as polemaster is to polar alignment!
Agree with Plate Solving being awesome...I think SharpCap is also like a PoleMaster but pretty much free and just as accurate.
I’m always thinking that if the PhD2 RMS graph isn’t displaying some sort of variance the it’s not doing anything. I ALWAYS go by how the image appears. APT looks interesting so I might need to check it out.
Thank you Trevor, I always learn something from your videos.
Thanks Kevin!
can a finderscope be used as a guiderscope by replacing the eyepiece with a guidercamera (which then connects via ethernet-cable to the mount, and via usb-cable to the computer running PHD2)?
What could be the problem when the program attempts to open but doesn't and just closes? I've looked up different issues just can't figure what the issue is..
Wow, I must be too set in my own ways, I never even heard of Astro Photography Tool.
Don't panic Chuck, SGP is easily the best option but APT is cheap and for beginners like me it's great. But SGP one day for sure so keep doing what you're doing as I'll need to get up on on it one day.
@@V12DB7C4D People are starting to grumble that SGP is becoming stagnate. There are lots of improvements that could be made.
@GB Ray lol
@@blanejnasveschuk6351 Not me, but I've heard people rave about it.
@@ChucksAstrophotography Pretty sure Chuck with the way you have you're rigs playing nicely you don't need to change anything that's for sure.
Perfect, thanks Trevor. APT is fantastic with the DSLR.
I have seen some people suggest the order in which you open these programs matters, particularly if you are also using ASCOM mount control and a planetarium program like CDC. I don’t know if that’s true, but I have had to restart PHD2 and CDC on occasion.
Nice concise review of APT. All AP management apps should at some point definitely incorporate a plate solver to grow with the user. Eventually we find that certain targets will just squeeze in based upon our sensor size and focal length and we need to precisely align to get the best framing :). Cheers.
Really need to use the pointcraft, platesolving and goto functions of apt. Once they are set up no star alignment routine is required.
agreed. Might also be worth pointing out that the phd2 focal length setting is that of the scope used for guiding. In the case of the video, the main scope because you were using OAG but otherwise the piggy-back one. Great video. Keep them coming...
How do you get the stretch window up at the bottom? It doesn’t show on mine?
Trevor might i ask a video about calibrating the skyguider's polar scope and the reticle? Ive noticed when i turn the polar scope to align polaris in the correct time position, the whole scape does not stay centered. It is normal for the scape to turn with the twisting of the polar scope, but when it moves with the scope, it is off centered.
Hi Trevor, I appreciate all your videos, website and info. It's been a big help. I purchased a WO GT71, WO 50mm guide scope, ASI290mm, HEQ5, Power Box, FocusCube, Polemaster, and other goodies and waiting for my modded Canon to be returned hopefully this week. I have everything up and running and connected (Running remote to my laptop with a powered USB Hub and a Power Tank attached to the Mount). I'm hoping to take my first try at imaging this weekend if the weather permits.
The question is: In your video you mentioned the different methods of guiding which is not clear to me. I've seen where the Guide Camera is hooked to the mount (ST4) and connecting the camera and mount through PHD2. I've also seen other setups without the ST4 and I'm assuming feeding the data back to APT (Which I am also using) and letting it adjust the mount from the guiding data from PHD2. Or am I missing something? Currently I have a USB from the Synscan to my laptop in addition to the USB to the Guide Camera in addition to the ST4 between guide camera and mount. Seems like I shouldn't need the ST4 cable and let APT\PHD2 do their thing. Again, thanks for all the great info.
I bought APT about a week ago and it won't install on my new windows machine. The company won't respond to my request for help.
just wondering what would be the process of turning your image from well black and white into a bit of color obviously im not expecing high graphical images im using an old nikon d300s and a really slow laptop as well protability but i would like to know what post processing id need to do to get it looking more colorful
@AstroBackyard - I’m having a little trouble using PHD2 and the Skyguider Pro. Do you have a video or a link to a video that shows how to use the PHD2 without a declaration axis? I’m having a really hard time with this.
so are you saying that if I have my mount is connected directly via rs232/USB that PHD-2 guiding will work through APT without the st4 connection through the camera or a shoestring astronomy adapter?
Awesome video as always and get that rabbit Rudy! Thank you again! I find APT to be great and user friendly. I love the point craft and plate solving. With EDMOD and my
Atlas it works great! Also, I think a lot of people should have two image acquisition programs at hand. You never know when one acts up or an issue
develops and the other program saves the day.
Amazing video, thank you very much.
Did you say you have the guide camera thepugh the main telescope? Or through a guide scope, you said on phd2 it was 1000mm fl. I have a 1500mm fl, how would be best to set up my guiding?
Instant click. Amazing content.
Hello Trevor, Where is the pop up window with the "auto stretch" left and right? Have never seen this pop up window, how do I find it? Thanks Kevin
Really enjoyed this walkthrough! You should do some more for people like me who just got into the hobby :)
Strange question for which someone might know the answer...in my APT, the histogram window is movable, but it's tall and skinny. I can't seem to resize it. I'd love to get more detail out of it by widening it like you have it, Trevor. I'm using version 3.71...is it possible that they changed this between 3.63 and 3.71, and now we're stuck with a "tall and skinny" histogram?
Trevor, this is truly an amazing video. HELPFUL and awesome. Thank you!
are you using a dslr? if so you should have a tall histogram with rgb channels. cmos/ccd has the wide histogram.
McE McErono that’s exactly what it is. Thanks for the reply!
It's probably different with CCD/CMOS cameras but I know that you should use high numbers (15-20) for your dithering when shooting OSC with DSLR's as you want the image to shift more than the average size of your color mottle areas, otherwise you're stacking color mottle noise on top of itself which will be picked up as signal when stacking.
Really good video that, I'm just starting into guiding and imaging with my AzGti in EQ mode so just getting my head around it all and simpler setups with my laptop
Great videos - Took some 1 sec subs of Orion tonight with a 135/2.8.
I have been looking for APT - it seems to have disappeared.
None of the links work - all time out on multiple browsers.
Do you know of a mirror location or where I could find it?
Thanks!
Honestly reassuring to see someone else with a "bad guide graph". I have the EQ6R and some people get like a laser straight graph all the way through but mines definitely not a laser and wondered if it was a problem or not. It's good to know I'm not the only one lol
Hey Trevor
I use a crisp sensor camera should the focal length be before or after the crop... when entering your focal length in PHD2
It has been always nice to learn so much from you. Please guide if its possible to control the iOptron Star guider pro using stellarium software
This is a great piece of software for 90% of imagers, It's great value too
the focal length of guide scope or main scope ??,,
The focal length should surely be set to the length of the guide scope and not the main scope
was that ISS flying over from 24:42 to 25:30?
Trevor I wonder, do you know if the rotary encoder of the EQ8 Pro R is purely for positioning or if it also provides feedback to close the motor control loop?
Really is time for a pier now that you have moved. I have never used the tripod of my CGX beyond indoors testing. CGX lives permanently on the pier with a heaver weather proof bag over it. Perhaps not the best solution for Canukistan however.
I have the data cable connected to my laptop from my t3i and it's connected with APT and I can control it but I have no live view on camera or laptop screen. It's probably something simple but I'm stumped nonetheless lol. Any suggestions? Thanks for all that you've taught thus far! Tim
I still jump into BYEOS to focus up my camera using FWHM as cannot get to work in APT??
I like your videos but is there an order I should watch them in for just learning APT. Numbering the videos would be great. Also I am having trouble with star trails and wondered about tracking. Pointcraft does the solving but I can't get good (> 1 minute) tracking.
Trevor or others, where is the pop up window with the "auto stretch" left & right? Have never seen this pop up window, nor do I understand if it's related to the LiveView or part of the exposure plan. When you selected auto stretch left or right, exactly what is this doing with the preview? Needless to say, every time I watch one of your videos, I learn something. Thanks for your great contributions to the hobby, Jim
Asking the same ???????
Hi Trevor. Do you know if APT has an option for mosaic? I was looking for something to make a mosaic because 800edgeHD's FOV isn't that big. If the weather over here is getting better i want to make my 1st mosaic. For now my plan is: Use EQmosaic. Shoot the panels once with EQmosaic and check if it's OK. Then use APT, load that panel/lightframe and blind solve in pointcraft for position to shoot the panels. I see you don't use pointcraft and was wondering how you shoot a mosaic? Btw pointcraft is very nice, i just load the lightframe from my last session, blind solve it and it goes to my object exactly like the last session. Also have Stellarium connected and sync it with pointcraft. So when i use the sensorframe(right top in Stellarium) i have the exact FOV of my imaging-camera and OAG-camera. Would be nice to see the framing of the mosaic there, but i was never able to find anything about mosaics. Maybe you found something and thx for all the info you give!!!
Rob no mosaic aid so far but please tell Ivo on the apt forum you would like it. he is talking about it for over a year now but always puts something else on his priority list :-( you can use hnsky for mosaics with apt but thats not what I am looking for.
@@realmcerono I like to stick to APT and Stellarium. I've seen software (maybe it was HNSKY, but i forgot) that could do what i wanted, that is showing the panels. I think there was a plugin or extra software to do that, but when i went for the download it wasn't available anymore. Think i go ask Ivo :).
@@realmcerono The answer was.....Cart du Ciel or HNSKY. Well i gonna stick with Stellarium(Stellariumscope) for now and try EQmosaic. If i'm gonna make a switch to other software it's probably gonna be N.I.N.A.
great video! I believe the best feature of APT is the Bahtinov mask focus tool
Great Tutorial trevor. very easy to follow and understand sir! Thank You for another fine video. Clear Skies to you too sir!
Thank you for all your help. I am new in astrophotography and your videos have helped me a lot to understand how everything works.
Off topic question .. what brand of ring light did you use to film the video?
Thanks for the video, but there is one thing that you can clear up for me. When you are imaging are you keeping auto stretch right or left on?
Have you planned to test the RASA 11?
Quick question, I'm new to the whole astronomy stuff, but can you see galaxies and Jupiter and such with heavy light pollution? (Like south of The Netherlands heavy?) Please answer because I don't want to buy a telescope only to find out I can't see anything through it.
Jupiter is actually fantastically bright, brighter that most stars in the right season, It's actually and pretty easy target even in bad conditions
In a few places lately, I've read that it's good to calibrate PHD on a star that's far from the meridian, not necessarily close to your target. It's supposed to prevent the "minimal south movement detected" error, if you're having that. But, I've also read to calibrate close to your target, as you've done. Does anybody know the pros/cons of both scenarios?
Thanks very much, this is one of the most useful videos I have ever seen, I've been following your channel, and learning from you using APT through youtube, and now would like to start using guiding, this video is exactly what I'm looking for. I have just one question on 15:07 about calibrating PHD on the exact area of sky that you are shooting. I was told by our local dealer that PHD calibration should be done in area that is about 90 degree to the north or south pole, that's the area where stars will have the longest trail / stars "move" the most distant, so the calibration data should be more accurate using stars there, then slew to the target, instead of the same area of the target. Would you mind please clarify?
You probably figured it out already, since two months have passed, but you were probably confusing Drift alignment with Guiding
To everyone: I have sony a7c with me and recently got ioptron sky guider pro tracker so which apps/Softwares can I use to take long minutes exposures ??? Is there any intervalometer app which can take 1 minutes long exposure ?? Also APT doesn't support sony cameras
Im starting out with astrophoghraphy and i was wandering if i should get a refracter type telescope or a reflector type telescope.
Please some one help
I recommend you to try N.I.N.A.. While I love APT and used it for some time, N.I.N.A. is just a few levels ahead.
BTW.: Great rant! Don't get discouraged by some guys with Cloudy Heads ;).
Amazing content, i'm addicted to your videos. How about telescope maintenance video?. That would be helpful.
Thank you for the upload. You've gained another sub! I have a huge interest in astro photography but know very little about it. Hoping to learn from your channel.
Me too, just bought my camera and tripod, now i will buy the star tracker, i will be using camera and prime lens (50mm f1.8) maybe i will use crop mode to get to around 80mm. This video is very interesting, i wonder if there is utility in buying this software for my explained setup or this is for when you have a dedicated astrophoto and equatorial mount?
Really good and comprehensive tutorial! How can one work out what binning to use? I suppose it's not as straight forward as knowing what camera you have?
I cannot get my Cannon Rebel T6 to connect to APT. Any tips?
If you haven't found the answer yet, you have to turn off Wifi on the camera.
How do you review the images captured when they are in FIT format after a session before stacking? Which piece of software? I have seen you use Adobe bridge for RAW photos but that doesn't work for FITs.
Appreciate the rant but my guiding with the ASIair really does stink. :( Fiddled with every setting posible I even got a replacement Meade LX85 mount with similar results but with better DEC numbers. Balance is perfect but I 'm lucky to get 2.0 total error and blurry subs although I do have a 2032mm SCT which makes things difficult. Even with a 6.3 focal reducer ( 1280mm ) results are about the same. Anyone using the ASIair with any tips? Peace!
Highly informative thank you. I would just like to ask a question. In phd2 you said you changed the focal length to 1040 but that was done in the guiding tab. Should this not be the FL of the guide scope rather than your imaging scope?
in his case, he's using an off axis pick-off prism, so he's actually guiding using the imaging scope focal length.
Does the live loop work for dslr too? That’s a new trick I didn’t know about if so.
Great video as always. I'm just starting to get into Deep Space Objects. Going through the learning curve of using the ZWO ASIAir Pro along with the ZWO 30mm f/4 Guide Scope on the Star Adventurer Pro Mount. This may be a dumb questions, but could the Astro Photography Tool be used in conjunction with this setup or do I already have this capability.
Awesome video and thanks for sharing! My question would be does the final image in the video represent your guiding for the evening was under 1 arc sec? Also would it be possible to see any final images you've done where your guiding was over 1 arc second? (such as maybe older images you've done that you know your guiding was over 1 arc sec).. I ask because I've been battling issues with my setup and its been said that even if the stars are round you still can get "bloating" if the guiding isn't as accurate for the night. The test image in the video where the guiding was showing over 2 arc sec looked fantastic and serves as a great point go with your eyes, but i'm wondering if the accuracy was actually under one arc sec because the settings in PHD2 where off temporarily. Again great video and this is my first year imaging deep sky objects and I've been trying to wrap my head around the guiding issues I've had over the past 7 months.
Is this software safe for the computer? When I downloaded it, it said this software may harm your computer. Is there a chance it can harm your computer? I
Nice video.... Question: Where did you get that really cool donut red lantern I spotted in your video that was behind you?
Thinking
Thats a photography light with a bulb change. Its a circle with phone holder in the middle. Amazon has them cheap
Hey Trevor thanks for the info. I've had a telescope now for some time now. Is bahtinov mask only helpful with camera or can it be useful for eyepieces as well.
Hi John, yes you can use a bahtinov mask to focus if viewing using an eyepiece.
@@colinhall9849thanks alot seems like no one wants to answer that question.
Great video. Thanks for showing the guiding graph as well
Great video as usual ! Now I only need to know more about the gain and offset :D maybe a good suggestion?
What filter wheel is that?
There is a lot of discussion going on about PHD2, the proper guide camera FOV vs the imaging camera FOV ratio, and whether you need to make sure that the guide scope is adjusted to look at the same DEC as the imaging scope. And then there’s the advice given by PHD2 to best calibrate the guide scope on a star within 1hr and 1 degree of the Meridian/Celestial Equator.The most important thing for my imaging is NO WIND!. (I’m lucky if the wind is below 5mph, and the frequent gusts always spoils an image.) The FOV of my guide camera is almost the same as the FOV of the imaging camera. The resolution of my guide camera is about 5”/pixel. The resolution of my imaging camera is close to 1”/pixel. The PHD2 guide graph typically shows close to +/- 0.25 pixel fluctuation for both RA and DEC on a calm night (3 second guiding). If collimation is done right and seeing is good, I always get good, sharp stars. Before I learned how to do Polar Alignment using SharpCap, the guide graph was normally around +/- 2 pixels and very erratic. I owe my most successful imaging to N.I.N.A., which makes auto centering and auto focus a hands-off operation (which I’m sure that other apps can also do, but I can’t argue with free). For exposures under 30 seconds, I really don’t need to do any guiding. I have even stopped dithering because what the Darks don’t get in calibration are eliminated in post processing.