I'd be really interested to hear about your skin/how you manage to do three days on- especially since it seems like you climb a lot on those fiberglass volumes. Do you have a specific skincare routine? Are there days where you can't manage to do your training due to bad skin, or do you try and fight through the pain?
I'd love to see more stretching routines for climbing! I feel like it's a really important topic that's not talked about that much. Great video as always!
Thanks mate :-) I wish I was the person to talk about stretching but to be honest I don’t think I represent very well what should be done, I have a very hard time getting more flexible and am probably doing a lot of wrong things :P
Maybe you could make a stretching video as a person who is not flexible especially considering it is the inflexible who need to stretch more than those who do not?
Quick note on the one armed recruitment training from the ground, I’ve found if I set my fingers into the grip I want, then engage a little more with the legs and shoulders to position myself and “open” at the mcp joint, I can flex and recruit into position and generate far more when I lift. Hard to exactly describe but love to see the lift work. Otherwise, fantastic protocol which more folks should on that cusp of possible (plus research shows setting something which is at that cusp we try harder versus always possible we leave a lot in the tank).
great video Emil! with work stuff I have room to climb twice per week with another day at the gym lifting and putting things down. my skin gets quite sore so two times a week seems the safest for that haha. I dunno if I will have a lot of gains, but i don't climb at a high level atm (6c at the best,but rarely)
Cool video Emil! I have a question about the "finger-lifts" you do. Is it correct to assume that it is a strength-focused exercise? And if so, what is the rationale of doing this exercise after a hard (at least for us mortals) kilterboarding session?
There is no rationale really just random stuff hes doing. Probably is not making any gains, his cns is already fried after three hours so his strength likely isnt going to improve from it.
Very funny you should ask, I never get that question and actually very recently started using it. It's a big subject for a future video (once I've properly tested it), but so far I've had interesting results.
I've been thinking about a big injury video, it's just hard to assess what's right and wrong to say. With tendonitis I've mostly massaged the tricep and shoulder area with pressure point balls to help, that's been a big thing. But that's just because my muscles get incredibly tense :-/
It’s actually on my list for the coming month or two, a series about how to progress of sorts! Always more finger training. Unless you’re injured or close to, then way less
hello emil, in one of your previous videos you showed your "latches" excercise on the campusboard and I've never seen anyone do that before and I immediately fell in love with it. What would be the next step up for that excercise? I can easily do 10 reps on our smallest rungs (like 1,5cm). cheers
Yes I have. Id say the best thing for me is to punish myself for not reading correctly. Go to a super nice gym with fancy boulders, and say that there’s only one single method you can use, changing beta is forbidden. That way i think more carefully what I choose so I get to climb the nice little blocs :-)
I wonder, maybe you've already said it in some video before, did you always climb this much? What I mean is that I would love to go climbing more, but nowadays I'm at 3 sessions a week, I tried going two days after each other but noticed a sharp decline in performance and fun consequently. Do you have any tips on how to be able to climb more? Like should I try to temper my sessions to get more sessions in?
Good question! It’s definitely something I’ve worked my way towards throughout the years, and I very much feel the same way you do about others. Some World Cup folks do double sessions 6-7 days a week, I’d die if I tried that.. But I’m working towards it in a way I suppose :-) My introduction to more volume was to train every day (almost) for 1-1hr30, never more. After a while I’ve been able to work that up more
The new drones might be a pick for you then :-) honestly quite amazed by them so far. They’re a comp version, meaning they’re designed for better smearing and usage in larger holds, however because of a pretty specific design they actually work incredibly well on small edges also. Big recommend!
for me these sessions are very important for building work capacity. I’m at a point where if i can’t train more I won’t get stronger. Some of the World Cup athletes I compete with can do these sessions 3-4 times per week with no issue, and my fitness just isn’t there. This means I’m loosing out on training volume. The tricky part is to find a balance between overtraining and building capacity, which is why I don’t do this more than once per week or so! The specific separation of the two sessions works well for me.
I actually have pretty bad skin, but the kilterboard works well. Wooden holds are also a good go-to. On the technical parts I’d use gloves if my fingers were too focked!
![ฮักเทื่อสุดท้าย - บอย ศิริชัย [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-1PoPoQ-B-k/mqdefault.jpg)
Clickbait, the video is not even close to being 7 hours long
I recommend you watch it 45 times for the full value
damn I don’t know why but I love this vid can’t wait for the next one
Haha thanks! Next one I think will be an absolute banger, super stoked on it
Great filmography, super strong, easy to stay focused. Always great vids!
I'd be really interested to hear about your skin/how you manage to do three days on- especially since it seems like you climb a lot on those fiberglass volumes. Do you have a specific skincare routine? Are there days where you can't manage to do your training due to bad skin, or do you try and fight through the pain?
As a Bay Area resident, I appreciate when you say “hella”
I'd love to see more stretching routines for climbing! I feel like it's a really important topic that's not talked about that much. Great video as always!
Thanks mate :-)
I wish I was the person to talk about stretching but to be honest I don’t think I represent very well what should be done, I have a very hard time getting more flexible and am probably doing a lot of wrong things :P
@@EmilAbrahamssonStill, It would be so cool to know as a good starting point. :)
Maybe you could make a stretching video as a person who is not flexible especially considering it is the inflexible who need to stretch more than those who do not?
Hooper's beta has a nice video that's been helpful for me. th-cam.com/video/f86QMiSMaZ4/w-d-xo.html
@@MoilBoil Tom Merrick has a lot of very good stretching routines. He has a routine for pretty much everything you can think of :)
Excited to see your training regime in further detail!
5:04 that is what we call a Neistat move or Neistating it.
That comp style gym looks so so so so nice to practice in omg I'm jealous
La qualité du vidéo est professionelle et vraiment absorbante. bon travail
It is nice to see your training, it is definitly motivating. Keep up the great work !
I was just wondering the other day what a day of training looked like for you. Super fun video, thanks!
i also often have the lat pain nowdays...exspecially when i try to push myself on the fingerboard and on hard board climbing.
Fun video :) cant wait for the more in-depth training vid! Also very excited for the replica-setting video that's coming
Yesss!!! Thanks so much for the great content
My body would be absolutely destroyed if I trained this much. Wish I could though!
Quick note on the one armed recruitment training from the ground, I’ve found if I set my fingers into the grip I want, then engage a little more with the legs and shoulders to position myself and “open” at the mcp joint, I can flex and recruit into position and generate far more when I lift. Hard to exactly describe but love to see the lift work.
Otherwise, fantastic protocol which more folks should on that cusp of possible (plus research shows setting something which is at that cusp we try harder versus always possible we leave a lot in the tank).
Very interesting take! I’ll remember this for the next session and see. Love the attention to detail!
Such a sick video!!
The man is dedicated, damn
Love the Batman style sound effects that go through your mind :D
Haha thanks, happy it was appreciated
Rad! I’ve been waiting to see some vids at BLX! Hope we get to see you and Nikken setting some sections together!
Never would have imagined me yelling at computer screen but when i saw that double gaston move on jw2...
Haha I know, what I did there should probably be illegal
Great video!
You can use a hard yoga block to do the trigger point release on your lat under your shoulder
Would love to see moonboard 2016 content
Ouff someday! There's no 2016 edition close to me, but when I'm on one sure thing
great job bro
For coordination, do you do any off the wall training like how some comp climbers practice catching tennis balls with each hand?
Yes and no, I do whenever I find something "fun", but not structured no
you should make a video with jim pope
great video Emil! with work stuff I have room to climb twice per week with another day at the gym lifting and putting things down. my skin gets quite sore so two times a week seems the safest for that haha. I dunno if I will have a lot of gains, but i don't climb at a high level atm (6c at the best,but rarely)
Cool video Emil! I have a question about the "finger-lifts" you do. Is it correct to assume that it is a strength-focused exercise? And if so, what is the rationale of doing this exercise after a hard (at least for us mortals) kilterboarding session?
There is no rationale really just random stuff hes doing. Probably is not making any gains, his cns is already fried after three hours so his strength likely isnt going to improve from it.
Are you still doing your twice a day training from 9 months ago?
Sarm up, that will make you better than the other dude you talked about 🎉
Haha… Emil said “hella” hard at 1:40
Shoutout to NorCal fam bam
yea fire vid
Instant click. Really interesting video! I have a question, do you use creatine?
Very funny you should ask, I never get that question and actually very recently started using it. It's a big subject for a future video (once I've properly tested it), but so far I've had interesting results.
Gotta use creatine and if you climb lead beta alanine too
Borg shorts...very very goood
Could you maybe make a video about how you recovered from your tendinitis?
I've been thinking about a big injury video, it's just hard to assess what's right and wrong to say. With tendonitis I've mostly massaged the tricep and shoulder area with pressure point balls to help, that's been a big thing. But that's just because my muscles get incredibly tense :-/
Maybe you can do a training routine for different levels? Beginners, intermediate and pros. Also how much/little finger training should I do?
It’s actually on my list for the coming month or two, a series about how to progress of sorts!
Always more finger training. Unless you’re injured or close to, then way less
Stiff refrigerator 😂
I mean did you see my frog pose? Like 90 degrees between my legs 😂
Tjena! Great video Emil; just curious what shoes you're using? :)
Thanks mate! They're the new madrock drone CS, comp shoe. Amazing for indoor, seems to do well on rock also
@@EmilAbrahamsson Thanks mate!
hello emil, in one of your previous videos you showed your "latches" excercise on the campusboard and I've never seen anyone do that before and I immediately fell in love with it. What would be the next step up for that excercise? I can easily do 10 reps on our smallest rungs (like 1,5cm). cheers
Great video dude! Have you ever trained your reading skills? If so, what do you find worked for you
Yes I have. Id say the best thing for me is to punish myself for not reading correctly. Go to a super nice gym with fancy boulders, and say that there’s only one single method you can use, changing beta is forbidden. That way i think more carefully what I choose so I get to climb the nice little blocs :-)
nice video! How to manage your skin beetwen rock and plastic and for this big volume climbing?
You made the comment "I broke that with my reach" also I heard a podcast talking about you being a taller climber, how tall are you?
I wonder, maybe you've already said it in some video before, did you always climb this much?
What I mean is that I would love to go climbing more, but nowadays I'm at 3 sessions a week, I tried going two days after each other but noticed a sharp decline in performance and fun consequently. Do you have any tips on how to be able to climb more? Like should I try to temper my sessions to get more sessions in?
Good question! It’s definitely something I’ve worked my way towards throughout the years, and I very much feel the same way you do about others. Some World Cup folks do double sessions 6-7 days a week, I’d die if I tried that.. But I’m working towards it in a way I suppose :-)
My introduction to more volume was to train every day (almost) for 1-1hr30, never more. After a while I’ve been able to work that up more
Really cool ! What is the first gym with the kilter board it looks very nice ?!
It’s called Moumo, a new fresh gym in the middle of Stockholm!
How are the new drones I really want to get them but I’m afraid they’ll be as stiff as the OG drones and those where wayyyy too stiff
The new drones might be a pick for you then :-)
honestly quite amazed by them so far. They’re a comp version, meaning they’re designed for better smearing and usage in larger holds, however because of a pretty specific design they actually work incredibly well on small edges also. Big recommend!
Did you get the new drones?!
Oh yes, they are fantastic
Roughly how many kg can you lift off the ground with the 20mm wooden block you are using?
Roughly 85-100, it differs to be honest. On a good day 90 will go quite easily, on a bad day 85 will be a big struggle
@@EmilAbrahamsson aweeeeesome! 💪
why do you do these sessions ? do you think its worth for training purposes?
for me these sessions are very important for building work capacity. I’m at a point where if i can’t train more I won’t get stronger. Some of the World Cup athletes I compete with can do these sessions 3-4 times per week with no issue, and my fitness just isn’t there. This means I’m loosing out on training volume. The tricky part is to find a balance between overtraining and building capacity, which is why I don’t do this more than once per week or so!
The specific separation of the two sessions works well for me.
what do you eat?
he's vegan and loves peanut butter
How do you take care of your sking to be able to do that?? Skin is always the reason I have to stop! :´(
I actually have pretty bad skin, but the kilterboard works well. Wooden holds are also a good go-to. On the technical parts I’d use gloves if my fingers were too focked!
are those the new madrock comps
Indeed they are!
@@EmilAbrahamsson are you sponsored? those shoes look so sick
why arent you using tension block!?!? way betterr
I don’t have one 🥲 really love it though, very very versatile