Cleaning and re-lubricating MGN carriages (READ DESCRIPTION FIRST!)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.พ. 2019
- PLEASE READ FIRST: This video was made during a time when most rails were pretty gritty out of the bag. This is USUALLY no longer the case and disassembling the rails now should only be a last resort if your rails feel "chunky" during inspection, a quick flush and re-lubing should be all they need, no need to disassemble. Also, do not mix up bearings between carriages either.
Quick video on how i disassemble, clean, lube and re-assemble mgn9h carriages and rails for the voron v2
Link to all voron information and community Links
vorondesign.com/
Approved BOM sourcing guide
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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I am amazed at how he performed this assembly with the latex gloves every time I come across this video. I tried I can not assemble a car w/ gloves on for the life of me :) Kudos
What is the size of bearings? YOu mentioned in other video that there are better ceramic bearings also available. Any links to sources? Thanks!
last time I tried this I lost 4 ball bearings, how long are those carriages? They seem longer than my MGN9H's from the recommended BOM
What kinds of grease can be used? Or should be avoided at all costs? I dont have lithium grease but i have marine grade amsoil grease on hand.
what kind of simple green do you recommend, same as grease?, is there any replacement for Slide Mold Cleaner Plus Degreaser 4?, thanks for your support.
Is there a reason you use white lithium grease over PTFE grease?
Has anyone used Si3N4 ceramic bearings on these?
Also, I did the cleanup and used Super Lube in the bearing chambers and it completely sucked. The lube is not a good idea or in my case it wasn't. Had to re-clean them and start over because they were not going back on the rail without spitting half the bearings out because the lube wouldn't let them move properly. I'd not recommend putting that much lube.
Thank you a lot Nero! I have a question: I understand that we need to grease because the shipping oil is strictly rust prevention. In that case why don't we directly grease it without cleaning the oil? Wouldn't we also want the anti-rust oil to prevent it from rusting?
Grease or lubricating Oil is enough rust prevention.
But the shipping oil is mostly not that great in terms of lubrication and providing a smooth motion.
Not all oils and grease are the same and may not mix well. If you just grease over the oil you will have pockets where there is no grease and just oil which is not good for lubrication.
guys, how smooth should these rails be? Probably OCD'ing. also I appreciate the info and your time.
You mention having spare bearings on hand, can you tell us what size bearing cpc mr 9ml rails use? I couldn't find it in the manual
10:08 he said 2mm balls
My cna rails just arrived, they seem almost perfect, do I really need to this for my 2.4 built?
Usually nowadays a quick flush with iso to get thw shipping oil.off and a regrease is all thats needed
Would Krytox 205g0 work for this lubrication?
krytox gpl is PTFE-based oil so it is probably okay.
Hey there, I'm watching this in 2021 and read your note in the description. Is there any chance you could explain to a layman what you mean by a 'quick flush' before re-lubing? Thanks very much, my friend.
I'd really like some info on this too. I just received my rails. They are covered in light oil, not coated in grease. Should I give them a thorough clean with degreaser and IPA? What's the best procedure for getting fresh grease into them please (ie. without dismantling them)?
I have the same question too, like A G I have just received my rails
Are we still waiting for the "quick flush" explanation? I would be glad, too.
@@martinlacher7932 from the Voron discord I gathered the feedback that this means cleaning with something like naptha or IPA and then flushing the dirt and grease out with either more naptha/IPA or something like WD40, before lubing them. Could be wrong but that's the feedback I received and also how I've done it myself: I cleaned with both naptha and IPA by soaking them, letting them sit and then rubbing the dirt off. Then flushed with IPA. Lubed with lithium grease
@@BinaryBlueBull what kind of lithium grease? Superlube?
Can you specify what action you mean by 'flush'? I'm looking at just soaking then scrubbing with a toothbrush.
What do you mean by 'flush'? I have no clue. Just got my rails from CNA. Thanks!
Flush - cleanse by causing large quantities of water or liquid (iso in this case) to pass through it.
May I know the liquid you put the blocks in?
Simple green
Could you post a more explicit update (text or video) on what steps you currently recommend? I don't know how to flush them without disassembling them and would prefer not to disassemble them. (Not because of the amount of work but because I'm afraid ill damage or lose something).
What I've done that's worked well is soaking in 99% IPA to get rid of any preexisting lube or oil, and then using a grease gun (I use EP2 grease) with a blunted needle tip you can very easily insert into the ports on each side of the carriage. Simply wipe off anything that squirts out and move it back and forth on the rail to work it in, you're done!
What size ball bearings are these?
69 meme ters
3/32"
@@keebsnstuff3400 RoboDigg MGN9 guides were 2mm, suggest measuring your balls before ordering anything.
After buying some Reliabot rails on amazon and soaking them in simple green they have turned black. Likely due to the phosphoric acid in the simple green and some aluminum, thus making aluminum phosphate. (I can't guarantee the aluminum however, but definitely ruined them). :(
Your rails shouldnt be aluminum. Discolouration of the rail shouldnt affect performance either really.
@@CanuckCreator it's became matte black and no longer smooth. I spent the last 4 hours polishing them with some 5micron diamond paste so they are pretty much back to normal. I just hope the diamond paste (approximately equivalent to about 3,00-5,000 grit sand paper) didn't ruin my tolerances. I also have to wait for new bearings, since these ones are no longer smooth. I do think my red end caps (sweep seal is what I've heard it called) is ruined. Part of the rubber coating has started to come off. But only on the inside so it will probably be fine.
To be clear, I don't blame you or your recommendation of simple green. But rather mentioning that for me, and the Reliabot rails on amazon, I would stay away.
It's just weird lol. Should be able to have them re assembled Tuesday when the new balls come. Looking for a new solution to clean them in. I have acetone, but am afraid of ruining the plastic or rubber sweep seal thing. I do have some, but not a lot, IPA. Do you have another suggestion you may recommend perhaps?
Thanks for replying! :)
Wow im sorry to hear, Ive never encountered or heard of that happening to anyones rails using simple green before, its pretty commonly used amoung others for this as well.
@@CanuckCreator yeah, after some research I didn't see or hear anyone having an issue like mine. Everything was steel too, I tested it all with a magnet, so IDK why it reacted like it was aluminum. :/ Either way. I have most of it done, just ordered new ball bearings, since the original ones are too far gone, and I should be good to go.
My concern is with grease. I have 3in1 ptfe lube already, and some krytox grease I could use(silicone grease with ptfe), but wouldn't grease be more likely to trap dust and filament bits and other debris? Or have you not noticed that as an issue?
@@CanuckCreator simple green is not safe to use on stainless steel. You can use the "Simple Green Professional" (the purple stuff) instead.
i'm starting to think rails are a bad idea. mine still haven't arrived by i keep hearing about them having a lot of play. maybe I should've gone with v-slots!
Decent quality rails have no play whatsoever. No comparison to V-slots, in particular in the long run with wear and tear.
@@christophmuller3511 yes but we use clones don't we? decent rails cost like a hundred dollars
@@ameliabuns4058 Go on eBay or any other auction Side and Look for used industrial rails. Most of the time they are about as expensive as clones but way better (might have to Clean Them though)
@@clypeum5063 I live in Iran so thanks to US Sanctions we can't buy from the Internet. I mean outside our country
At least high-quality and preloaded linear rails can now be thrown in the trash can after disassembly. This would not matter with the cheap Chinese things. But at the latest with the CPC or HiWin rails, the preload is over and the linear rails are no longer usable. After that, you only have a nice expensive paperweight, even if you supposedly believe at first moment, the rails work again after assembly.
Something like this should not be shown, the fewest read through anything and try this afterwards.
Get gloves that fit.. it's way better. In your case.. a size down from whatever you are wearing.
Also thinner in this situation not bad idea.
A magnetic dish is great if you dont have any spare ball bearings
Mag dish is bad...you don’t want to magnetize the ball bearings
Always do this job on a tray, not a table top. That way when the balls roll away (and they will roll away) they remain contained where you can find them.
Why is this necessary to do ?
they have a thick protective grease when you get them. cosmoline. they wont glide easily with it in there
@@AnselGaddy I see. Thanks.
white lithium grease -_- and he pretends to know what he's doing
care you elaborate?
@@CanuckCreator Castrol Longtime HS 1.5
@@darkracer1252 White lithium is a good, commonly found grease that you can get anywhere, and it works just fine in this application. Its a 3d printer with practically zero force on the movement system, not a high end CNC machine with cutting forces. Buying specialty greases, while on paper, may be better, are not really going to buy you any significant advantages, if any really.
@@darkracer1252 Hiwin recommends lithium grease for their rails
@@fadsorb11 There's actually multiple recommendations depending on usage.