The Incredible Mr. Bleep - Continuity Mode reimagined (in cooperation with LER)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 พ.ย. 2024
- Sponsored by PCBWay -- pcbway.com/g/k... - the best way to get your PCB's!
What if there wasn't only a bleep? What if your multimeter could tell you way more with short bleeps and different frequencies? What if this was doable with a little microcontroller?
This video is based on one of Richard's 4:00 a.m. Ideas: let's build a continity meter that can tell you if it sees a simple short, a schottky junction oder a diode.
In This Video, I do the Hard- and Software side - head over to Richards Channel to see everything in Action: • The Incredible Mr Blee...
The PCB is although listed on PCBWay: www.pcbway.com...
We did some videos while developing this idea over at Learn Electronics Repair. If you want to watch the whole story:
• Continuity Mode Upgrad...
• The Bleeping Multimete...
• LER Projects Update, M...
Arduino Project (ARDUINO 1.8.19 IDE in portable mode with all nescesary files) & Gerbers:
e.pcloud.link/...
The Canary Connection:
Learn Electronics Repair (Richard) - @LearnElectronicsRepair
Retro Upgrade (Carlos) - @RetroUpgrade
Meet us live bi-weekly (on the even sundays): @theelectronicschannel
Video Recording Software: obsproject.com
Video Editor: www.capcut.com/
Audio Cleanup and Enhancement: podcast.adobe....
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It's Det, Richards mate, you have a new subscriber Det.
Hi John - welcome to the show :)
incredible, you explained all the trivial things in the schematic but not the only thing that was necesssary to explain, how it works feeding the analog voltage to the adjust pin of the LM317..
Hi Zeeebrenn - ah crap, sorry, man! The LM317 is used in a standard config to operate it as a current source, I probably skipped here, b'c this is a thing I use all the time :)
So - here's what's going on: The LM317 is a voltage regulator. It keeps a constant voltage of 1.25V between it's output and GND. If you use it to regulate the voltage, you simply do a voltage divider between output, adjust and GND.
In our case, we want a constant current. Since the voltage between output and Adjust is known (1.25V) you can calculate the current with Mr. Ohm's law: I=U/R - in our case: I=1.25V / 820R.
This comes down to about 1.5mA - exactly what we want for Mr. Bleep.
I know: there's a gazillion way to do a constant current source; the way we do this here is simply to keep the component count low; I even reuse the 820R resistor value for the LED :)
if you want to play around with an LM317. this has one of the best datasheets I know; tons and tons of examples.
@@DetBuildsStuff hand over the datasheet sir or else imma call the police. I think you forgot to link it ;)
@@MrHvleeuwen oh no! I'll keep the Datasheet all to myself :D It's miiiine!!
Great job Det, good to see you back doing videos mate, keep up the great work mate, cheers 🤙🏼🇦🇺
Joe from Australia 🤙🏼🇦🇺
Hey Joe - yeah, this one feels a little rusty, but I'm back. Great that you like the project - and see you over at TEC soon!
@@DetBuildsStuff mate, nothing rusty about it, it was awesome, from start to finish, keep up the great work mate, I’ll be keen to see more of your channel.. 🤙🏼🇦🇺
Joe from Australia 🤙🏼🇦🇺
Thanks for the code and the walktrough of it, got it running on an UNO.
Now i just need to build the input stage with an LM317, gonna order some pcb's later but for now this will do
Hi Karthor - I never tried it, but yeah, this should run on an UNO/Nano without a lot of modification. Good thinking, Man!
Awesome !...cheers.
Hi Andymouse - welcome to the channel! And thanks! Have fon building one :)
A warning though, if the input voltage exceeds the limit of analog pin, then it will blow up the chip. You need a way to clamp the voltage down to safe level, as well as having static protection.
Hi Phil - yeah, that's exactly what I'm saying in the video. To keep the project as simple as possible, we decided against a (probably) complicated protection circuit, you know: once you start with those, it never ends :)
So - with you: only use this one opn unpowered circuits!
@@DetBuildsStuff Not complicated at all. A 5V zener in parallel with the input pin will clamp it to the maximum input value. Good peace of mind.
@@4DRC_Sounds great! Hey @detbuildsstuff8128 , do you concur?
Can you use ATtiny13A? The biggest difference is 1kB flash size compared to ATtiny85's 8kB.
Hi Det , where can I get the Gerber files for the programmer pcb.
OK, I think I need to throw a video about the programmer together :)
But just to help you out:
e.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZXvBWZQYG2DF7GAUVbOHqYaGQrSumFduuX
- there's the gerber, the BOM and the schematics for the little ATTINY85 programmer. This is taken right of the editor, no clean up for YT.
Let me know if you need anything else.
Hello, I have built this project using your PCB's from PCBWay and it all nearly works but... It is as if the hole thing is running slow! The beeps are low frequency and slow and the RGB LED is always white as though the data or clock to it are slow. I have tried 3 different ATtines from 3 different sources and checked that they are running at 8Mhz. any ideas why this could be running slow? Thanks for a great project.
Hi Heathman - welcome to the channel!
The one thing I can think of: did you burn the bootloader? Yeah, there is no bootloader - but the burning of said loader sets some fuses - for example the chip frequency.
Let me know if that did the trick!
Hello@@DetBuildsStuff Thank you for replying so quickly and sorry for my slow response. The problem was indeed not burning the boot loader! It's now working perfectly. It has been many years since i used an ATtiny and completely forgot it was a thing. Thank you for you help. P.S. I have made a quick 3d printed case and will post it on Thingiverse soon. Thanks again for a great project. Really useful.
Hi @@heathman4478 glad I could help! And yeah, I've been there: looking for this damn fault for hours and then remembering the bootloader... good times :)
Hello, I'm a devote subscriber of Richard's, and I want to build Mr Bleep. I am a beginner. I have aquired all the hardware and want to put the code into the chip (ATTINY85). I do not understand how to. You are mentioning a pcb that you built before, in Germany to program the chip. Please help me, What do I need?
Hi Måns, welcome to the channel!
Don't worry: Mr. Bleep is doable for a beginner. Abd yeah: the Programmer Video should have been before the Mr. Bleep Video... well, Life and stuff, you know.
Anyway: to program the ATTINY85, you need the programmer mentioned in this:
th-cam.com/video/sswhDiJgz4Q/w-d-xo.html
Video. This is based around an Arduino NANO (the old version) and pretty easy to build; if you going to order PCBs for Mr. Bleep, get 5 boards for the programmer (ATTINY 85's are cool!).
Let me know if i can help you on the way!!
@@DetBuildsStuff Too late, I have already got the boards from pcbway. But I will order more stuff soon.😁
The link on PCB way to pCloud doesnt seem to work, I always go to my own upload page
If I copy the URL and paste it in, it still doest go there. Am I doing something wrong? :(
Hi John - Rich did set up the PCBWay Project page - I didn't check it (at least I'l not the guilty one, this time :) ).
Feel free to use this link:
e.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZenN2ZEImDXuWJBsJTsAvTNyos8YlEDq7k
- that should get you directly to the DL.
@@DetBuildsStuff Mr Bleep on PCBWay
www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Mr_Bleep_Continuity_Tester_Re_Imagined_f185798a.html
Thanks for this Det. Where do I get the programmer from?
Hi Clive - I did build a ATTINY85 programmer based around a Arduino NANO back on my german channel:
th-cam.com/video/JeDmssyodVc/w-d-xo.html
This programmer isn't a really complicated thing - let me know if there's need for a english version.
can i paraller the probe with multimeter ???
Hi Neoris - that's what the "DMM" Version of the software does: we clamp a pretty much naked MCU across multimeter pins and measure in the same fashion as decribed in this project. Richard did a video about this here:
th-cam.com/video/vgeZNGpmG9E/w-d-xo.html
Be warned: since we're slapping the MCU Inputs directly onto the DMM pins, every voltage above 5.5V will fry the little ATTINY. So if you want to modify a DMM, be sure to use it only for continuity in the future.
Thanks...Bro for detail info
Heya, really nice video but have to watch it twice to untherstand it this is totaly new stuf for me so have a lot to learn
Hey Dutch - thanks, Mate! I think it helps when Rich and myself explain a thing - you get two perspectives with different points of view. Let me know if I can help with the understanding of the code!
BTW: when will you start live streams again? The canarian nerd squad will surely hang out for some shenanigans :)
@@DetBuildsStuff sick at the moment so have to wait a bit but hope soon so I can show you guys my setup
@@Dutch_off_grid_homesteading count us in!
Nice I like it
Hi Jumad - thanks, mate! This was great fun to figure out and build. Stray tuned for more stuff!
Nice one! Why didnt I think.. of.. oh. :|
Wers, that was exactly my reaction, when Rich told me about his idea :)
Yes Dett I need to build a programer,
Hi Paul - you can simply use the Attiny85 programmer I show in another video here :)
@@DetBuildsStuff where 🤣,Ive never used the Attiny 85 before and it looks like an interesting device
@@paul-c7541 Paul - it absolutely is! As an alternative, have a peek at the updi video - if you wanna get out of the Arduino box without loosing the ease of the ide - could be worth a look
would like to build the programmer nice code
Hey Gordon - If you want to do more with ATTINY's, here's the old (and german encrypted) video for the programmer:
th-cam.com/video/JeDmssyodVc/w-d-xo.html
Let me know if this works for you or if we need a new video.