Free info for any passerby: This compressor fits a 2nd gen Ford explorer perfectly (must lay it flat). 1 person can safely unload this compressor in less than 3 minutes. Just keep pulling it out of the SUV until you feel that it wants to drop. Then slant it 45° againt your garage floor, and MAKE SURE THE PALLET BASE DOESN'T SLIP! Grab the top motor by it's ears and just pull it untill the compressor stands straight. It took me 30 seconds to unload the thing alone, and I'm not a bodybuilder :)
I think you're not far off. I have an 80 gallon model, and just screwed the pallet straight down to my wooden porch, and it stayed there like that working just fine for ten years. It still works, but I've moved and it's properly installed on a concrete floor nowadays.
Those "add-ons" that come at additional cost are actually essential components to the compressor and should be sold with it (i.e. vibration damper pads and anchor bolts). If you list it as an initial install kit, then it should come with a filter/dryer and a pressure regulator as well. The only time a customer DOESN'T need them is when he is replacing a compressor in an existing system, but still should replace the damper pads because they do degrade with time and use.
Thanks for the information I was able to install my compressor. Suggestion; for the 4 wire 220v part. Don't cap the return just don't connect it inside the plug, since it's only connected to the compressor. That way if another 220v tool needs to be used on the same outlet it can be used safely. Also it doesn't make sense to rewire a box for one item. Yes I saw the shielded cable, and yes it does make sense to do it that way if it's a dedicated system, but the video does not state this. So it would make more sense to use a plug, like in your none dedicated plug instructions. Thanks for the post though it helped. Thumbs up!
Ah yes im sure every home owner uses lockout tagout procedures lol. Its so if your family works in shifts and osha visits your house. 5 inch holes is also laughable. Im sure it will stay put in a hurricane. Best part was the guy drilling the holes clearly went clean through his 4" pad
Installed a new pump, second stage of the break-in procedure is as clear as mud. You think information as valuable as this would be explained in better detail than one paragraph in the installation manual.
@campbellhausfeld Thanks for the reply, I actually figured a way to hook it up differently. I went to Harbor Freight Tools, and bought a hose (3 foot length, 3/8 threads) and went from the shut off valve to the regulator using a 3/8 size connector for easy removal, then with a 3/8 double male end, connected the filter to the regulator, and then to a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer and a 1/4 connector directly to the hose. The regulator and filter were mounted to the wall with "Tornado" sheet rock hangers.
I did similar. Installed a 3/4" ball valve on the tank output and had a 4 foot long, 3/4" hydraulic hose made to go from the tank to a 3/4" drop ear 90º attached to the wall next to the wiring junction box. The drop ear 90 reduces to 1/2" and connects to my shop air distribution. The flexible hose and Bolting the drop ear elbow to a wall eliminates vibration in the hard piping with the compressor is running.
@DonutGuard Also, to be fair, I did what somebody else on a forum did and connected the filter before the regulator. So the order is: Shut off valve, Hose, 3/8 connector, air filter, double male 3/8, air pressure regulator, 3/8 to 1/4 reducer, 1/4 connector, tool hose.
I wonder if there's a way to install the regulator and shut off without having it stick out so far... that just looks like it's begging to get pulled on or bumped into.
Im confused on the power cord recommended in the video ( EC012902AV) When I Google it, it comes up as a 3 wire 14 AWG. Manual for this compressor recommends a 12 AWG under 75 feet
Why don't you sell the complete package? Some people don't know what is needed and would rather have everything needed to get working than wasting hours doing research on what regulators, inlets. valves, pipes, gauges, hoses etc are needed to get air from your product to my tool. It's a pain in the ass. Have you ever heard of plug and play? Its the same concept.
CH sells a variety of compressors. Many are plug and play, as you requested. This size of compressor isn't a portable, "take it to a job site and go" type of unit. Most units of this type are "permanent installation" and integrated into a new or pre-existing shop air distribution system. For instance, mine is installed in my basement and hardwired to my electrical panel. CH doesn't know how far I intend to install it from my panel (length of wire to include) the make of my panel, and thus, the type of breaker to include. In my case, a pre-installed "whip" with plug would be superfluous and increase the retail cost of the unit, making it less price competitive against other similar units in the marketplace. I have 1/2" black iron pipe air distribution system from the install location to garage and back yard work area, so included regulator, ball valves, nipples, and QDs are just more extra stuff that would need to be rolled into the retail price, that would increase the price vs. competitors, and end up getting tossed in the junk drawer of most consumers of a product in this range.
The kit you're talking about would have to include everything anyone could possibly need meaning everyone would get something they don't really need l.
I bought this compressor, with the H7273 Standard pressure regulator and PA2121 Standard Air Filter, does the filter go in between the compressor and regulator?
electrician wired the outside throw breaker with two black leads and one white. appears white is used for a ground. connects with wire nut in metal throw circuit breaker box from conduit to compressor in line. it also is screwed into the metal housing of throw breaker box, not sure if electrician knew what he was up to 11 years ago. these wires lead to pressure switch and he wired two hot leads to upper two connectors and connected white to switch base plate with green screw. Compressor worked for three days shutting off at 150psi. stopped working and elect motor will not restart. suspect capacitors burnt somehow. haven't looked at the two capacitors yet but I think something is definitely amiss. any ideas. Husky 60 gallon upright, 240 volt 2 phase. Unit was new 8 days ago. Oil was fine belt is good. wire connectors reflect power to all checked with meter. Any help would be appreciated.
Step 1. If you can't unload compressor from truck without watching an instructional video return compressor to store, trade truck for Prius, and stay away from power tools.
2:50 Thoes work boots are not steel toe cap, which is the regulation, along with safety goggles at such an installation project. . . Cheers. from, del-boy.
I have a 60 gallon upright campbell hausfeld piston compressor that won't build up pressure. I bought it new 5 - 8 years ago and only use it for light duties. Filling my vehicle tires and a bit of blow cleaning. It doesn't seem to be building up pressure as fast as it used to. Is there a fix or is this $600 piston compressor just scrap metal?
Rian Faircloth A dryer cord "could" be used IF the wire gauge is correct for the amperage draw of the compressor; chances are, the dryer cord is not heavy enough for the compressor load. Typically, a larger compressor such as a 60-gallon or 80-gallon is "hard-wired" to the service line; meaning that the compressor would be wired directly to a cut-off switch terminal rather than just a wall plug. The switch would then be wired directly to a dedicated 220v (240v) breaker of proper amperage. You might ask, "what is the proper wire gauge?" Depending on the compressor amperage rating, you will normally see the wire gauge requirement at 10-gauge or 8-gauge for most 60-80 gallon compressors; also, most are 3-wire configurations: 2 hot wires and 1 ground. Hope this helps!
+Rian Faircloth A dryer cord should be just fine, the receptacle shown in the video is a NEMA6-20 , a 20Amp 240V grounded outlet with no neutral, most electric dryers use a NEMA14-30 a 30Amp 240V outlet with a neutral and a ground, so if you used a dryer cord you would leave the neutral disconnected.
Look for a range cord. They are a size bigger, I think. A range is designed for higher current draw than dryers. The older 3-wire cords are readily available, since only homes wired in the past few years have the newer 4-wire outlet.
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Free info for any passerby: This compressor fits a 2nd gen Ford explorer perfectly (must lay it flat). 1 person can safely unload this compressor in less than 3 minutes. Just keep pulling it out of the SUV until you feel that it wants to drop. Then slant it 45° againt your garage floor, and MAKE SURE THE PALLET BASE DOESN'T SLIP! Grab the top motor by it's ears and just pull it untill the compressor stands straight. It took me 30 seconds to unload the thing alone, and I'm not a bodybuilder :)
We delivered it in Lexus RX ))
Had one loved it ..new in 1999..still works in 2022..gave it to my brother..in 2003..
lets be honest , 99 percent of people who will buy this unit or something similar will leave it on the pallet for 20 years
If you don't plan on having the property where you install it for 20 years it's easier to move to the new property or sell that way. LOL
I think you're not far off.
I have an 80 gallon model, and just screwed the pallet straight down to my wooden porch, and it stayed there like that working just fine for ten years.
It still works, but I've moved and it's properly installed on a concrete floor nowadays.
Those "add-ons" that come at additional cost are actually essential components to the compressor and should be sold with it (i.e. vibration damper pads and anchor bolts). If you list it as an initial install kit, then it should come with a filter/dryer and a pressure regulator as well. The only time a customer DOESN'T need them is when he is replacing a compressor in an existing system, but still should replace the damper pads because they do degrade with time and use.
Thanks for the information I was able to install my compressor. Suggestion; for the 4 wire 220v part. Don't cap the return just don't connect it inside the plug, since it's only connected to the compressor. That way if another 220v tool needs to be used on the same outlet it can be used safely. Also it doesn't make sense to rewire a box for one item. Yes I saw the shielded cable, and yes it does make sense to do it that way if it's a dedicated system, but the video does not state this. So it would make more sense to use a plug, like in your none dedicated plug instructions.
Thanks for the post though it helped. Thumbs up!
Ah yes im sure every home owner uses lockout tagout procedures lol. Its so if your family works in shifts and osha visits your house. 5 inch holes is also laughable. Im sure it will stay put in a hurricane. Best part was the guy drilling the holes clearly went clean through his 4" pad
Installed a new pump, second stage of the break-in procedure is as clear as mud. You think information as valuable as this would be explained in better detail than one paragraph in the installation manual.
I can't believe how crooked that guy drilled the holes in the concrete . I couldn't sleep at night if I did that lol
This video is Helping me in 2021, Thanks Campbell Hausfeld!
@campbellhausfeld Thanks for the reply, I actually figured a way to hook it up differently. I went to Harbor Freight Tools, and bought a hose (3 foot length, 3/8 threads) and went from the shut off valve to the regulator using a 3/8 size connector for easy removal, then with a 3/8 double male end, connected the filter to the regulator, and then to a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer and a 1/4 connector directly to the hose. The regulator and filter were mounted to the wall with "Tornado" sheet rock hangers.
I did similar. Installed a 3/4" ball valve on the tank output and had a 4 foot long, 3/4" hydraulic hose made to go from the tank to a 3/4" drop ear 90º attached to the wall next to the wiring junction box. The drop ear 90 reduces to 1/2" and connects to my shop air distribution. The flexible hose and Bolting the drop ear elbow to a wall eliminates vibration in the hard piping with the compressor is running.
@DonutGuard Also, to be fair, I did what somebody else on a forum did and connected the filter before the regulator. So the order is: Shut off valve, Hose, 3/8 connector, air filter, double male 3/8, air pressure regulator, 3/8 to 1/4 reducer, 1/4 connector, tool hose.
Thanks for the video...this video helps me a lot....thankfully again.....👍
Why not a dryer cord?
I wonder if there's a way to install the regulator and shut off without having it stick out so far... that just looks like it's begging to get pulled on or bumped into.
If you decide to go the receptacle/plug route could you use twist-and-lock connectors for both
Excellent video. Thanks.
Not telling the size of pipe and adapter is just part of the game heh
Superrr video ,thanks!!!
Thank your Video,I user new compressor 👍👍👍🌍🌍
use a threadlock compound (blue or red) on air connections it seals air leaks and avoids parts from moving due to vibration, teflon tape is crap.
What gauge was the wire from the wall to the compressor . Looked like 8 gauge ? Will it except 6 gauge ? Thank you for the video
Im confused on the power cord recommended in the video ( EC012902AV) When I Google it, it comes up as a 3 wire 14 AWG.
Manual for this compressor recommends a 12 AWG under 75 feet
Why don't you sell the complete package? Some people don't know what is needed and would rather have everything needed to get working than wasting hours doing research on what regulators, inlets. valves, pipes, gauges, hoses etc are needed to get air from your product to my tool. It's a pain in the ass. Have you ever heard of plug and play? Its the same concept.
CH sells a variety of compressors. Many are plug and play, as you requested. This size of compressor isn't a portable, "take it to a job site and go" type of unit. Most units of this type are "permanent installation" and integrated into a new or pre-existing shop air distribution system. For instance, mine is installed in my basement and hardwired to my electrical panel. CH doesn't know how far I intend to install it from my panel (length of wire to include) the make of my panel, and thus, the type of breaker to include. In my case, a pre-installed "whip" with plug would be superfluous and increase the retail cost of the unit, making it less price competitive against other similar units in the marketplace.
I have 1/2" black iron pipe air distribution system from the install location to garage and back yard work area, so included regulator, ball valves, nipples, and QDs are just more extra stuff that would need to be rolled into the retail price, that would increase the price vs. competitors, and end up getting tossed in the junk drawer of most consumers of a product in this range.
The kit you're talking about would have to include everything anyone could possibly need meaning everyone would get something they don't really need l.
at what point did you install the belt?
I bought this compressor, with the H7273 Standard pressure regulator and PA2121 Standard Air Filter, does the filter go in between the compressor and regulator?
So you can use engine oil on a compressor?
electrician wired the outside throw breaker with two black leads and one white. appears white is used for a ground. connects with wire nut in metal throw circuit breaker box from conduit to compressor in line. it also is screwed into the metal housing of throw breaker box, not sure if electrician knew what he was up to 11 years ago. these wires lead to pressure switch and he wired two hot leads to upper two connectors and connected white to switch base plate with green screw. Compressor worked for three days shutting off at 150psi. stopped working and elect motor will not restart. suspect capacitors burnt somehow. haven't looked at the two capacitors yet but I think something is definitely amiss. any ideas. Husky 60 gallon upright, 240 volt 2 phase. Unit was new 8 days ago. Oil was fine belt is good. wire connectors reflect power to all checked with meter. Any help would be appreciated.
Step 1. If you can't unload compressor from truck without watching an instructional video return compressor to store, trade truck for Prius, and stay away from power tools.
I had to bear hug the bitch and lower it myself 😂
@@kylemickelson9411
You are very strong, I use my 90 pound lady, a hydraulic table and an engine hoist.
Lol 😂
Why don't you tell management to start manufacturing more products in America.
2:50
Thoes work boots are not steel toe cap, which is the regulation, along with safety goggles at such an installation project.
.
.
Cheers.
from,
del-boy.
So why can't a dryer cord and receptacle be used?
For 4hp, why not electrons don't see any difference other than its better due to increase in ampacity.
I have a 60 gallon upright campbell hausfeld piston compressor that won't build up pressure. I bought it new 5 - 8 years ago and only use it for light duties. Filling my vehicle tires and a bit of blow cleaning. It doesn't seem to be building up pressure as fast as it used to. Is there a fix or is this $600 piston compressor just scrap metal?
Most likely needs a new set of reed valves. th-cam.com/video/Pq2FB8FEKoQ/w-d-xo.html
Can I use a 50 amp wire and breaker?
yes you can. its fine to go higher just not lower
30A wiring is plenty you could go 50A. 50A breaker will not protect the motor. Go with the lowest breaker, full load motor amp plus 20%.
why cant you use a dryer cord?
Rian Faircloth A dryer cord "could" be used IF the wire gauge is correct for the amperage draw of the compressor; chances are, the dryer cord is not heavy enough for the compressor load. Typically, a larger compressor such as a 60-gallon or 80-gallon is "hard-wired" to the service line; meaning that the compressor would be wired directly to a cut-off switch terminal rather than just a wall plug. The switch would then be wired directly to a dedicated 220v (240v) breaker of proper amperage. You might ask, "what is the proper wire gauge?" Depending on the compressor amperage rating, you will normally see the wire gauge requirement at 10-gauge or 8-gauge for most 60-80 gallon compressors; also, most are 3-wire configurations: 2 hot wires and 1 ground. Hope this helps!
+Rian Faircloth
A dryer cord should be just fine, the receptacle shown in the video is a NEMA6-20 , a 20Amp 240V grounded outlet with no neutral, most electric dryers use a NEMA14-30 a 30Amp 240V outlet with a neutral and a ground, so if you used a dryer cord you would leave the neutral disconnected.
your right i had a complressor just like the one shown here,and i used a dryer cord, and use it for around 18 yrs never had a problem.
I've been using a dryer cord for over a year now and have no issues.
Look for a range cord. They are a size bigger, I think. A range is designed for higher current draw than dryers. The older 3-wire cords are readily available, since only homes wired in the past few years have the newer 4-wire outlet.
Is that why your watching?
i have this unit, i just put it on hockey pucks didn't mount it to the floor, it ain't goin nowhere
s37d lo ppl
He missed the most important part of the wiring, the size of the circuit breaker 20amp 30 amp 40 50 whats up???
At 1:25, the video states that this compressor uses a dedicated 220-240 volt 20 amp circuit.
Bad location for the ground screw plus it should be green. White color for neutral, not for power wires.
You say one thing and do another in the video, major math failure lol
HAHAHA He said nipple
I also have a compressor like that. What is the hp of that motor?
Is it working fine?