I installed a very similar setup. Inline 6 circuit behind the factory instruments. Remove the windshield and it's right there, super easy to access. I added a switch so I can power up all accessories without turning the bike on, and then put a diode inline with the power from the key so it won't back feed to the rest of the bike when I use the switch.. This way it comes on when I turn the bike on, or when I turn the switch on. If both of those are off, nothing has power. Works great! Your diagram is perfect, and easy to follow.
That diode addition is a great idea! I love working on the bike's electrical like this and making the diagrams and such. Thanks for sharing your design idea.
Man, you make that look easy!! It's so great to see that project from beginning to end. Probably something I should do too, it doesn't seem as intimidating now! Thanks for sharing, and keep well!
Thanks brother. I love doing this kind of work. And I like making videos, and I ike motorbikes. So really it's really a triple threat of awesomeness for me lol.
It's such a fun one to do, and there's a lot of ways to do this, too. You don't need to splice for example. You can come right off the battery and have a master power switch. You just got to remember to turn it off or the battery could drain.
New to KLR. Just found your channel. The depth of detail and pace of explanation is excellent! Working on a set of Tusk handguards today .... will look at your playlist to see what I am missing ;-)
Hello there, glad you liked the video. The tusk guards are great. They've saved my levers every time the bike's gone down on the trail. One thing I did with mine was I kept the stock bar ends (weights). But to do this I had to get a couple of spacers and some longer bolts. You should be able to find these at a general autoparts store if you end up wanting to do the same. Good luck, it's a fun install.
@@IslandADV Thanks ... working around the front brake banjo fitting and getting the inward clamps to clear the body work at full lock is today's challenge. Might benefit by a short handlebar riser to clear the body work. Again, great vids!!
I love wiring. I could sit there all day and, strip, crimp, route, and solder. It's so chill. The big thing is the prep work. If you have a good diagram and and plan before you start sniping and soldering it's so stress free.
Oh nice. Glad you got out for a ride. It took me awhile to get the hang of schematics and such too. I learned how to read and draw them in college. I love drawing them up.
I'm glad it helped man. Aux lights are so useful on the trails and having a circuit setup that won't drain the battery is key. Cheers and great work getting them setup.
From a Brit in Hong Kong just getting into biking and acquired a 2010 KLR 650. At 6:32 you talk about the “white wire that runs in from the coil relay”. I’m a newbie and I got lost here : to me I take that to mean from the rectifier after the AC current has been changed to DC . But there is no relay there (?) … so which relay are you referring to ( sorry again .. newbie struggling to understand ) . Could you please show a wiring diagram ( of the white wire ) at the connection/junction to the “ coil relay “ you refer to showing detail ? (The whole point is to obtain electrical energy for your distributor/6 x ACC from the alternator so as not to drain the battery … unless I’ve even got the big picture wrong ? )
Hello there, check out the description for a wiring diagram and an electrical schematic for this. The main concept is that the accessory block is powered by the battery, BUT, that power supply is controlled by the relay. So where does the white wire come from? The other side of the relay's normally open internal switch. This white wire terminates on the positive terminal of the accessory block. The feed side of the relay internal switch comes from the battery itself. The idea is that the block is only powered by the battery when the switch in the relay closes. The switch in the relay only closes when its internal coil is energized by a source of power from the ignition switch supply. It's a bit of a wild circuit, but the relay is key for safely making and breaking that block main supply from the battery. Cheers.
Thanks! It should be fine. This thing has seen a ridiculous amount of mud, rain, and just me blasting it with a pressure washer. I've yet to encounter any shorting issues.
I installed a very similar setup. Inline 6 circuit behind the factory instruments. Remove the windshield and it's right there, super easy to access. I added a switch so I can power up all accessories without turning the bike on, and then put a diode inline with the power from the key so it won't back feed to the rest of the bike when I use the switch.. This way it comes on when I turn the bike on, or when I turn the switch on. If both of those are off, nothing has power. Works great! Your diagram is perfect, and easy to follow.
That diode addition is a great idea! I love working on the bike's electrical like this and making the diagrams and such. Thanks for sharing your design idea.
Man, you make that look easy!! It's so great to see that project from beginning to end. Probably something I should do too, it doesn't seem as intimidating now! Thanks for sharing, and keep well!
Thanks brother. I love doing this kind of work. And I like making videos, and I ike motorbikes. So really it's really a triple threat of awesomeness for me lol.
A project I’d like to tackle one day. Thanks for sharing !
It's such a fun one to do, and there's a lot of ways to do this, too. You don't need to splice for example. You can come right off the battery and have a master power switch. You just got to remember to turn it off or the battery could drain.
New to KLR. Just found your channel. The depth of detail and pace of explanation is excellent! Working on a set of Tusk handguards today .... will look at your playlist to see what I am missing ;-)
Hello there, glad you liked the video. The tusk guards are great. They've saved my levers every time the bike's gone down on the trail.
One thing I did with mine was I kept the stock bar ends (weights). But to do this I had to get a couple of spacers and some longer bolts. You should be able to find these at a general autoparts store if you end up wanting to do the same. Good luck, it's a fun install.
@@IslandADV Thanks ... working around the front brake banjo fitting and getting the inward clamps to clear the body work at full lock is today's challenge. Might benefit by a short handlebar riser to clear the body work. Again, great vids!!
Awesome video. This is gonna help me out alot. I don't like wiring 🤦♂️. Great content.
I love wiring. I could sit there all day and, strip, crimp, route, and solder. It's so chill. The big thing is the prep work. If you have a good diagram and and plan before you start sniping and soldering it's so stress free.
@@IslandADV I'm not good at reading wiring diagrams. Thinking about ordering some things and get started. Lol. I rode yesterday 🤘🏻.
Oh nice. Glad you got out for a ride. It took me awhile to get the hang of schematics and such too. I learned how to read and draw them in college. I love drawing them up.
@@IslandADV draw them up and send them to me in a format I can understand 🤣
Dude your video helped me out so much wiring in a similar harness for my auxillary headlights, thank you so much!
I'm glad it helped man. Aux lights are so useful on the trails and having a circuit setup that won't drain the battery is key. Cheers and great work getting them setup.
Respect!
Thanks brother. This was a really fun build.
alot of times when i wire i heat up vasoline and pour it on wires and connections so dont rust up and easier to take apart again
Hey sweet idea. That's genius. Thanks for sharing that tip brother.
From a Brit in Hong Kong just getting into biking and acquired a 2010 KLR 650. At 6:32 you talk about the “white wire that runs in from the coil relay”. I’m a newbie and I got lost here : to me I take that to mean from the rectifier after the AC current has been changed to DC . But there is no relay there (?) … so which relay are you referring to ( sorry again .. newbie struggling to understand ) . Could you please show a wiring diagram ( of the white wire ) at the connection/junction to the “ coil relay “ you refer to showing detail ?
(The whole point is to obtain electrical energy for your distributor/6 x ACC from the alternator so as not to drain the battery … unless I’ve even got the big picture wrong ? )
Hello there, check out the description for a wiring diagram and an electrical schematic for this.
The main concept is that the accessory block is powered by the battery, BUT, that power supply is controlled by the relay.
So where does the white wire come from? The other side of the relay's normally open internal switch. This white wire terminates on the positive terminal of the accessory block. The feed side of the relay internal switch comes from the battery itself.
The idea is that the block is only powered by the battery when the switch in the relay closes. The switch in the relay only closes when its internal coil is energized by a source of power from the ignition switch supply.
It's a bit of a wild circuit, but the relay is key for safely making and breaking that block main supply from the battery.
Cheers.
Good clean job, if you had to do it again, would you wire your Aux lights into the block?
Thanks, I think I'd keep them on a separate circuit still. That way I can kill the block and still have the lights running.
@@IslandADV smart!
Hey great content! I just bought a similar distribution block. is it ok to get wet and muddy through those gaps in the plastic cover?
Thanks! It should be fine. This thing has seen a ridiculous amount of mud, rain, and just me blasting it with a pressure washer. I've yet to encounter any shorting issues.
Not sure if I missed something, are you able to access the block without taking the faring off?
Nope, you'd need to pull the cowl off to get at it for sure.