Most Falls Are Due to Body Position Mistakes
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ส.ค. 2024
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Special thanks to pro climber and Olympian Kyra Condie for joining us today! Find her on Instagram at Kyra_Condie ( / kyra_condie . Previous episode with Kyra: • Techniques that Make o...
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro with Olympic Climber Kyra Condie
00:13 When a bigger move is the easier beta
01:12 Why climbers get "stuck" in difficult positions
02:21 Pay attention to posterior shoulder strength
02:56 A nasty foot cut, and alternate beta
04:07 Foot pressure = hand accuracy
05:33 How to hit holds more accurately
06:32 Getting stuck in a high foot position + pros' beta
08:32 Momentum is key to get out of this situation
09:22 How to generate momentum in a tricky spot
10:06 Stop being afraid of full ROM shoulder exercises
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode __
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⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy - กีฬา
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👇The most valuable lessons our viewers have learned from board climbing (from a recent survey) 👇
Most upvoted: @lazeavlad - Pulling the holds with the tip of the shoe
2nd most upvoted: @NestorMandela - Trying HARD, rest a lot between attempts. I'm addicted to the Kilter 💜
3rd most upvoted: @sofussverressnnfinne204 - Importance of resting between goes, micro beta and just pulling really hard.
4th most upvoted: @jMelo215 - Using my hips to generate powerful, dynamic movement and pulling into holds with my toes
Others :)
@introspection3884 - Tension
@Perry0823 - Learning how to crossover underneath my arm as opposed to crossing over it.
@metacum - Body positioning, tension, and timing.
@FissureRaiOh - Tension, and how that is almost a lazy form of climbing, in the paradoxical sense that once you become proficient at it, you can’t turn it off, you just learn how to relax into the necessary position and stay tight while moving.
@parkerramthun - Cutting feet/ how to keep your feet
@stefanofalero - body tension technique, learning to visualize the massive effects of shoulder positioning on moves, getting volume at my limit without getting restricted by the available climbs like with commercial setting. it improved my sport climbing more quickly than anything else, cuz it helped me read and execute good body positioning on rock so much more consistently
@planat96 - The Kilter board forced me to get better with my feet.
@billy44talent - Sometimes you gotta change the way you grip a hold to progress. For example, Flip a crimp into an undercling. Or Pinch the side of a hold to make room for your foot. Etc.
@josephearley9530 - In tandem with C4HPs ‘wall crawl’ concept - how to actively engage on terrible holds
@georgealexanderp - Throw your pelvis at the wall to go up.
@CaseyFackreClimbing - Definitely how to properly back flag
@meganwong9508 - How much you can actually squeeze with your lower body. After board climbing for awhile, when I went to commercial sets, I was surprised at just how much my engagement/smearing became...and what it really feels like to maximize body tension from toes to finger tips.
@nandovancreji - pogo!!!!
@Solace7899 - Knee drops honestly. And making my own routes on the Moonboard
@Sepp2009 - Proper breathing! World changing..
@dngyng1000 - Turning hip. I actually needed to turn my hip much more to execute proper outside step and to reach far holds.
@ManTanDan93 - As parker says down below: footwork. If you weren’t great at using your feet before, the board will change that
@heraclitus4884 - How essential foot tension is at that angle with smaller holds and ways of keeping that tension
@theresalei6244 - The scorpion!
@Perry0823 - Learning how to crossover underneath my arm as opposed to crossing over it.
@DannyDorfel - Keeping tension in the hips and pushing through the feet. It just makes everything easier…
@5tr4nge75 - Learning how to actually try, not just half arse attempts
@S2lomon - The importance of tension and precise footwork. I'm not a strong climber, so if I miss the foothold, or loose it on a hard move, I will just fall.
@dasnklas1164 - Flagging: how small differences where you Put the flagging foot make a huge difference, how much tension and Stability you can generate from the flagging foot (a Lot!)
Breathing: when to breath, how Long, when to tighten Up and when to relax
Hip positioning: when to square Up vs Twist, etc.
How to get insured 😁, or how to avoid it
@CampariSoda - Breaking down big and intimidating problems into smaller, more manageable pieces. A super valuable technique that can be applied across all facets of life.
@dylansmith3452 - Pushing in different directions with each leg, for example one leg pushing horizontally and the other Pushing vertically shortly after
@billy44talent - Sometimes you gotta change the way you grip a hold to progress. For example, Flip a crimp into an undercling. Or Pinch the side of a hold to make room for your foot. Etc.
@nf2px - To try and relax as much as possible and just let what needs to happen, happen.
@wellbornyouth - Until recently I had been limiting myself to the 25 degree 2017 board but I started trying the 40 degree 2016 a few weeks ago and it's made a BIG difference. I've been learning to make my footwork a lot more 'active', whether that's digging in a toe to avoid a cut-loose as I make a big reach, pushing much further over a knee to maximally optimise body position before reaching for a hold, or actually putting some meaningful pressure into the smear during a flag.
It's also forced me to address my habits and go-to strategies - I will almost always opt to position myself so I can have one hip turned to the wall, but the board is teaching me that often that isn't the most optimal or efficient position. There being lots of beta videos on the popular problems is a great way to see how differently other people are completing the same problem and changing my perspective on best approach.
@oscarcann - Generating and getting REALLY close to the wall! It makes a hugeeee difference and moves that feel impossible are achievable if done correctly
sorry to hear about Dan! wish him a speedy recovery! I guess he should have done some face pulls lol
1:32 common "hey whats this board thing lets try it - oh nvm" moment
😂classic!!
Hah I didn't even notice that!!
Wishing Dan a speedy recovery! We want him to flash our projects for many more years.
Appreciate it!
It’s been years now (which is why I haven’t climbed much in our vids…) but seem to be finally making some progress 😊
I'll never tire of seeing Kyra absolutely crush everything. That "alternate start beta" was insane.
She's a beast! Looking forward to having her in more videos
The advice to aim for a specific part of the hold with a specific finger was fantastic. I've never thought of it that way before, and sometimes I do fluff a climb because i'm just slapping in the "area" of a hold, so I'm definitely going to try this.
Super helpful, right? And such an easy trick to remember: aim small miss small.
Informative and entertaining as always
Glad you enjoyed it!
This type of videos is insanely good, very informative for intermediate climbers, a good balance between specific and general advices. Bravo !
Glad to hear it, thanks for chiming in!!
Fun videos, keen to apply some tips and try these problems! It's great to have Kyra on, she makes it look so easy!
She crushes! Honestly it's pretty fun to watch how smooth/controlled these climbs can be at high levels.
Would be cool if you could compare different styles of climbing, and how they make it work. For example Colin Duffy climbs mostly in open crimp/drag, but still manages to climb crimpy boulders with that style.
Its so nice to see these videos especially since my gym is about to get the 2024 moonboard!!
Oh sweet! I haven’t had a chance to climb on the new set, but it looks great! 🤞🏻
I’m jealous!
Those Crossover / rose moves are my nemesis!! Its nice to see these videos just before we get the 2024 set!!
They are tough! Hopefully these tips helped!
Wow. Just discovered only now the best climbing channel on TH-cam !
🥰🥰
Thank you so much, and welcome to the channel! 🙏🏻
Top-notch editing in these videos. I really enjoyed the direct comparisons.
Thank you!
-Emile
Awe Dan love you dude, health issues are a nightmare
Thank you! ❤
They’re certainly not the most fun 😂
Making progress though!
Good tips!
Thank you!
Hi Hooper + Co, I have a question. Does it still count as a half-crimp if your DIP is hyperextended/PIP is above the DIP? Basically a full/closed crimp but with no thumb. Been having some hand problems and I think it's because my half crimp is actually more of a full crimp.
A full crimp without the thumb is still a full crimp! (I.e. PIP significantly higher than DIP with DIP hyperextension, just as you described, is a full crimp.) A half crimp is when the DIP is mostly straight and approximately “level” with the PIP.
-Emile
@@HoopersBeta Thank you!
I looooooove these videos! Could you do a series on kilterboard with a range of grades plz 🙏🏻
We'll hopefully have access to a Kilter board soon, in which case we will make some videos with it!!
-Emile
@@HoopersBeta Could you then sell that Kilter board and buy a TB2 instead?
Haha the facility we're hoping to use has a fully adjustable Kilter AND a giant TB2 💪🥳 hopefully they decide to let us film there!!
-Emile
@@HoopersBeta Well in that case, I agree, but on the condition that I can also go there.
GRR Waterloo hell yeah!!! Hope Dan recovers quick
Thank you!! 🤞🏻
You recognize the gym from somewhere?
On 9:30, I'm surprised that you are not talking about the knee direction. And the angle of feet. The only way to generate force from the right leg is by pushing you out of the wall, right? Unless you twist your heel to the left, to give your knee more to the right instead of into the wall, and activate your calf. Right?
That being said: great video! I love these!
Great point, and good catch!
Getting more over the knee will of course help.
Another big factor here is being open vs closed relative to the wall.
Left knee is turned in, and doesn’t turn out to assist with the rock over, or shift engagement onto the left shoulder during the rock up.
Both of those will likely affect success with this move as well.
I think we talked about this some when filming, but it’s something we’ve covered in a number of other videos, so it ended up getting cut in favor of another point / technique.
But if I’m understanding you correctly, you’re absolutely right!
And thank you!
I feel like a lot of bad body positions are the result of subconsciously trying to protect yourself from falling, like the first dude doesn't twist fully into the position because his legs are no longer under him then. Any tips for dealing with that?
Assuming that you’re in a safe location (gym for example), it really helps to… practice falling 😉
Sounds like a joke, but actually really helpful. The more you understand and trust safe vs dangerous, the easier it is to commit to things.
My fingers are fat and I’m tall (~6 2). I feel some and even most of recommendations can’t be useful for me unless I get my fingers way more stronger. I wish you had a video for how someone with my body-type can do super crunched and fingery moves on the Moonboard more efficiently.
I am 6'3 and most climbs are set for people who are like 5'6-5'8, it is not talked a lot about unfortunately, but being quite tall is much harder than being "short" in most cases.
As a 6'1" guy with fat fingers who has improved a lot at scrunchy positions over the last year or so, my main piece of advice is to assess your weakness as a struggle with scrunchy positions, rather than a struggle with scrunchy positions BECAUSE you're tall. I've climbed with so many guys around my height who attribute failure on sit starts/high foot moves to the boxy climb morpho issue as often as they can and I'm confident that it's true less than 10% of the time.
Tall climbers tend in my experience to avoid scrunchy moves, and then attribute that lack of specific skill to morphology, when it has a lot more to do with them having avoided those moves and consequently not learned the neccesary abilities. The high foot move on Whispering Aspens V10 on the 16 set felt really hard for me at first, and i assumed despite its reputation for being soft, it's probably less so for me due to height. But nah, a session and some excuse busting later and that move felt fine, the mental barrier was responsible for almost all of my doubt.
That and mobility obviously, weighted archer squats and frog pose have been huge for me.
The recommendations definitely apply to you, you're not seven feet tall you're just barely taller than Ondra and he's a high foot god.
@@lukedavies900 lol what grade do you climb at outside? Bet its
@@hipposandcheese1 I mean hey if you wanna believe that being the same height as Jan Hojer and Jon Glassberg means you should just give up on the prospect of broadening your skillset go for it.
Being tall makes many things harder, being a victim of your morphology in your own mind is going to worsen the effect of basically all of them.
If you feel your finger strength is a limiting factor for you, it sounds like you already know what you need to improve on? I wouldn’t blame height at all, however. 6’2” is not tall enough to be significantly limiting for climbing, even on the moonboard. In fact I’m about 6’2” and it doesn’t stop me from sending a bunch of stuff on the moomboard 🤷♂️.
-Emile
i dont know man. they are just stronger in a lot of cases
Of course, strength helps out a lot! Sometimes if you’re not strong enough, you won’t be able to perform the “right technique” no matter how well you attempt to execute it. (We actually have a video coming out about this this Monday!). BUT, that shouldn’t stop us from identifying problematic body positioning and working to improve our technique. Plus, most of the time people are indeed strong enough to send their projects if they just fix some very simple technique/timing/positioning mistakes.
-Emile
@@HoopersBeta i feel like a lot of those people in the videos there, did perfom a poor technique because they lacked the strength. i would prefer videos where we only point out better betas if it is doable for the specific person who did an unefficient beta.
the thing in the thumbnail for example was really good advice, which can be done with same amount of strength. it is a very good advice and i could even use it today. BUT most of the other stuff just made it nearly disappear, if you know what i mean. too much information to keep. focus on the really really valid points, there is only so much we can take out of a video here
@@Fred-oz3twthe request for clarity / simplicity totally makes sense, and we’ll continue to keep it in mind for future videos. We do have a large range of viewers though, and people are looking for different types and levels of information.
As far as strength goes, none of the techniques discussed in this video are going to be strength restricted. If you can get to the top of a moon board at all, you can definitely apply the ideas.
@@danielbeall7725 i must disagree. they are strength restricted in a lot of cases.