Hey all, here's a little disclaimer for the video. In this episode we try to break the OFFICAL Guinness world record for male and female: www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/farthest-dyno-move-in-wall-climbing-male & www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/farthest-dyno-move-in-wall-climbing-female Now that being said, there are mentions out there of people breaking these records (with jumps all the way up to 2.90meters). Those haven't been ratified by GWR and so for the sake of the video we're just going for the official ones, but just know there are a lot of kangaroo-people out there and we're not trying to diminish their achievements. This was shot in good fun, and not an official attempt at breaking the world record, simply an attempt at breaking the official record, if that makes sense 😅 Here's a nice article on the subject: www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/skyler_weekes_king_of_the_dyno_and_a_wine_sommelier-1872 The article is from 2009 and has a funny quote in it: "Most bouldering world cups include at least one dynamic move on one of their problems and dynoing is simply a distillation of that practice." Makes you wonder, how would the best world cup climbers perform at a straight up dyno comp nowadays, considering essentially every boulder at every comp has a dyno in it nowadays? Lastly, again thanks to Frictitious for the sponsorship, just remember you can get 20% Off on any Frictitious Hangboard with a Doorway Mount if you follow this link:︎ frictitiousclimbing.com/collections/all
It is worth noting, that Guinness is more of an entertainment-source, rather than an official record-keeping company. I'm not sure how relevant this is for your sport, but they have been rather sloppy in some other domains. So... You may be just the one starting to keep track of this in a decent capacity now :)
@@theguy760shin bruise But it's real, WR holder skyler weeks broke his spine and suffered severe head injury requiring facial reconstruction needing 2y to recover before breaking the record again in 2011
PSA - all door frames are not created equal. I have been doing DIY renovation in my last two homes for years and it is absolutely terrifying to think how many people are hanging their full body weight on crumbling drywall, MDF, and a few rusty brad nails. If you don’t know your door frame is sturdy, it is best not to hang from it.
To counter the Church of Dynology, I founded the Saint Static Society (SSS), not to be confused with SS... The Saint Static Society is for those climbers who always find a static way to solve a dynamic problem. The Saint Static Society is for real climbers, not for jumping spiders!
I feel this is the trailer to the ultimate crossover, we got Vivi, but more importantly, Nikken, Matilda and Teo also appear in the background. It feels like in the next video Emil will say "Climbers, assemble" and all the crew is gonna appear out of nowhere.
really great video and nice to see men and women collaborating on sports this way. as a 6'3" generally large person without alot of upper body, I never thought about climbing or even heard of a dyno. def motivating and interesting, like watching a skate video. actually I think i might go skate a bit. def gets a sub from me 👍
Amazing video and vivi has amazing energy!! I would love to see more of her :) congratulations on breaking the world record and also setting a new one :) I really really enjoyed this video!
I would love to see what Vivi can do with a little more practice on the step up dynos. She wasn't able to get anywhere near the amount of jump off the step that she is obviously capable of. Amazing.
Right now I do your hangboard routine before my sessions and seeing you do it on a frictitious doorway mount (which I also use) brought me a strange amount of satisfaction
To each his own. I think this view of dynos shifts when one gets a bit older. As someone who started climbing in their 40's and is now 50, it doesn't appeal to me and the risk of injury is too much to take. Not being able to climb, in my case, is a lot more impactful than not being able to dyno.
That's perfectly fair, most of what I said was more so to build up to the actual video. Personally my favorite move is probably a good old static lock-off from some hard edges
@@EmilAbrahamsson Thanks Emil! I will admit, seeing my 11 year old and the rest of the youngins' fly all over the place is fun to watch. Keep up the good work!
@@davesmith1588 Good on ya, Dave! Keep repping for us mature gentlemen. Not to put too fine a point on it but I do have some underlying mechanical issues due to a couple of cancer runs. However, the old farts at my gym all tend to avoid them. I still think they look cool. Seeing someone do a double paddle coordination type dyno is pretty amazing.
Call me old school but personally, I’d watch a video of a gnarly crimp being locked off over a dyno anyday 😅. It’s much more impressive and hardcore imo.
Skyler’s dyno (Zion) was downgraded pretty significantly by subsequent ascensionists because of a high foot that Skyler didn’t use. I think it’s settled around V9 (7C) instead of V16 (8C+). Seemingly, there’s an open dyno project right next to it though that may be truly V Hard
Dude, the " Local Basketball Team " kinda got to me xD They're the second best NBA team of the season. Now I get he probably doesn't know much about Basketball. But yeh, idk. But good video! :D
Wow, impressive strength and coordination! She's so explosive and fast. I wonder if she could get even higher with a ponytail - at her speed air resistance might be a factor ;-)
It is time for climbers and GWR to grow up with record keeping. All boxing and MMA have weight categories for champions. It is ridiculous to expect a 5' 7" (170cm) guy who may have a 69 inch(175cm) reach or less, to make the same dyno as a guy 7' 6"(228.6cm) who may have a similar reach. IMO, competition categories should be base on full reach/extension. Standing flat footed, reaching as high as you possible can with one hand, what is the total distance? The divide it into 4"(10cm) divisions. There will be people that can reach 7.5 ft(229cm) and those that can reach 9 ft(274cm) or more.
luckily i live in a scandinavian 50's post ww2 cheapo apartment. door ways/frames sticks out like a cm. enough to hang and to do pullups on. with my frame im just about able to do it. body type: gymnastic/powerlifter 78kg about 183cm. would i as a non climber benefit from a hangboard. i usually to do rings, monkey bars weighted dips, and so on.
That was fantastic insight and exactly the kind of video I was hoping for. Thank you so much! I like Nothing Mores latest stuff, wasnt a fan of the last record, but loved the three they put out before that. Saw them live a couple of times here in Germany and was always very impressed with Jonnys live vocals. I always wondered how he's able to put so much weight and power in his high notes. But makes total sense that its because he got such a high speaking voice. If you could get him to talk about his singing in an Interview, that'd be awesome.
I mean I feel like I wouldn’t just sit there and watch other people climb I’d rather be doing my own climbs especially if it’s people you already see at the gym all the time
Oh you even think about it you just have to, it's too good of a hobby and lifestyle to miss out!! Just be prepared to get some initial shocks at how fast your hand get tired and how sore they get the first weeks or so. It's insanely fun to climb!!
@@nosreuter Every job ive ever worked at eventually calls me a monkey and I consistently outclimb my peers whenever a climbing rock wall shows up but thats the full extent of my exposure to this hobby lol. Genuinely thanks for the encouragement, Im going to make the effort and take the plunge!
For off-the-wall power training, it seems people put so much emphasis on feet off upper body exercises, yet the vast majority of power in dynamic climbing movements is generated through the lower body. A lot of gains being left on the table here.
I hereby officially request that Swedish gyms set more challenge problems like this, bathangs and cracks so there's a reasonable way to train technique other than on the ones that happen to pop up every other year if you're lucky.
i was visiting Stockholm for vacation in September and almost decided to visit the Moumo gym (on Vivi's t-shirt)... Decided to get a top-rope green card instead. It's still on my list of things to do... to visit that gym and the cafe.
Great vid as always.. but saying dynos sets climbing apart from other sports is simply wrong. Dynos are a core component of parkour, way more than in climbing.
Funnily enough that "V16" dyno is just down the road from where I used to live. I has been repeated several times and the current consensus is V8, making it potentially the largest downgrade ever th-cam.com/video/cB6ChHN0IEw/w-d-xo.html
@@EmilAbrahamsson I though it was easier than rainbow rocket, but harder than the lines to the left. It does feel a bit harder than other V8 dynos but certainly not 8 grades harder 😂
prob use dif measuring tape or cut string to the length you want, nib the ends so it doesnt fray, and use those premeasured, and pre stretched, strings to determine set lengths. That tape looked real floppy and not super accurate, however that could just be how it looked in edit.
Vivi reminds me of my fiancé with the hair. I have the Brazilian version of vivi. I’m hoping as she starts climbing more with me her results are similar hahaha
Hey Emil, you mentioned before the frictitious hangboard you were using a portable board. i have one that ive been using daily now and its helping fix a tweaked finger. how did you determine how much to pull each time? i dont have enough weights at home to be close to my own weight, so i've been attaching it to a resistance band instead. i dont know how efficient it is, but it seems to help a little bit. any tips from anyone would be appreciated! anyway thats the end of my ramble no one will see, great video as always!
anyone know what chalk bag that they are using? i can see there is an e9 logo on it but also a scarpa one. i have done numerous searches for it but cannot seem to find it
Hey all, here's a little disclaimer for the video.
In this episode we try to break the OFFICAL Guinness world record for male and female:
www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/farthest-dyno-move-in-wall-climbing-male
&
www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/farthest-dyno-move-in-wall-climbing-female
Now that being said, there are mentions out there of people breaking these records (with jumps all the way up to 2.90meters). Those haven't been ratified by GWR and so for the sake of the video we're just going for the official ones, but just know there are a lot of kangaroo-people out there and we're not trying to diminish their achievements. This was shot in good fun, and not an official attempt at breaking the world record, simply an attempt at breaking the official record, if that makes sense 😅
Here's a nice article on the subject: www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/skyler_weekes_king_of_the_dyno_and_a_wine_sommelier-1872
The article is from 2009 and has a funny quote in it:
"Most bouldering world cups include at least one dynamic move on one of their problems and dynoing is simply a distillation of that practice."
Makes you wonder, how would the best world cup climbers perform at a straight up dyno comp nowadays, considering essentially every boulder at every comp has a dyno in it nowadays?
Lastly, again thanks to Frictitious for the sponsorship, just remember you can get 20% Off on any Frictitious Hangboard with a Doorway Mount if you follow this link:︎ frictitiousclimbing.com/collections/all
It is worth noting, that Guinness is more of an entertainment-source, rather than an official record-keeping company. I'm not sure how relevant this is for your sport, but they have been rather sloppy in some other domains. So... You may be just the one starting to keep track of this in a decent capacity now :)
calling the Denver Nuggets a local basketball team is absolutely sending me
The name sound like a small local team though.
Saaaaame, to hear my state team be called out like that 😂
Exactly what I though, literally best team in basketball (or second if u rather choose Boston)
@@gongo11gongowell Celtics are a dynasty so they are definitely number 1
Y'all better quit sleepin on my Nuggets
"You need to be prepared to eat sh*t to get good at dynos", says the badass with both a smile and a battle scar on her face 🤘
Huh?
@@theguy760 Watch the end of the video
@@theguy760shin bruise
But it's real, WR holder skyler weeks broke his spine and suffered severe head injury requiring facial reconstruction needing 2y to recover before breaking the record again in 2011
@@dooday1 holy shit!
yep, amazing girl! love how she said it too haha XD
More Vivi. Please. She's amazing to watch and very inspiring.
PSA - all door frames are not created equal. I have been doing DIY renovation in my last two homes for years and it is absolutely terrifying to think how many people are hanging their full body weight on crumbling drywall, MDF, and a few rusty brad nails.
If you don’t know your door frame is sturdy, it is best not to hang from it.
Okay and if it breaks so what, not like I’m getting injured from a 6 inch fall and it’s easy enough to replace
Glad to hear you don’t get hurt hanging from collapsing door frames, keep it up :)
You must be American if you unironically say drywall
@@feasterfamine836 not sure where you’re living but no doorframe has ever collapsed on me. Good luck living in the swamp buddy
Well, at least 4 people have never heard of anyone being injured this way, that probably makes it safe 🥸. Thanks for all the anecdotal evidence!
This is my first time seeing her and she is such a treat!! I love how she was always encouraging him and her energy is just to die for 😊
Good to see the Church mentioned.
All hail B-dog. Keep your eyes out for an upcoming video in a few weeks, a certain dynoist will be involved
Amen brother 😊
🙏
To counter the Church of Dynology, I founded the Saint Static Society (SSS), not to be confused with SS...
The Saint Static Society is for those climbers who always find a static way to solve a dynamic problem. The Saint Static Society is for real climbers, not for jumping spiders!
@@EmilAbrahamssonyessss i need that video
someone get the man a socks sponsorship
Haha appreciate the concern. Get your ass over to Sweden someday!
🤣
came down here to make this joke if no one else had. xD Good one!
"Baboon brain makes biceps go boom boom."
-Emil Abrahamsson, 2024
Boom boom
Viví is a hero, that was so badass to watch
Damn, Vivi absolutely crushed that.
I’ve never seen a female climber as explosive as Vivi. Super impressive
All female climbers are 💀 you have to be to be a rock climber. One at her level
I feel this is the trailer to the ultimate crossover, we got Vivi, but more importantly, Nikken, Matilda and Teo also appear in the background. It feels like in the next video Emil will say "Climbers, assemble" and all the crew is gonna appear out of nowhere.
.... and thor appears with a flashing light ... and a knee-pad.
really great video and nice to see men and women collaborating on sports this way. as a 6'3" generally large person without alot of upper body, I never thought about climbing or even heard of a dyno. def motivating and interesting, like watching a skate video. actually I think i might go skate a bit. def gets a sub from me 👍
Ah cheers mate! Nice to have you on board and I’m glad you enjoyed the video :-)
@@EmilAbrahamsson getting the skaters on board, that's one easy win
Besides being absurdly talented, Vivi seems to be really cool and funny. Also, absolutely gorgeous hair!!!
Great content, gotta love all things-dyno ❤
I teared up a bit when Vivi got the step-up dyno. Great job with the video!
18:02 Matilda Söderlund casually doing pull-ups in background :D
this is the freaking hollywood of climbing gyms lol
Your body control not barn-door-ing on that first dyno is _insane._ And Vivi has absolutely no quit in her. Love it!
Amazing video and vivi has amazing energy!! I would love to see more of her :) congratulations on breaking the world record and also setting a new one :) I really really enjoyed this video!
Really enjoyed that. I can see why you are both so good. You can't give up until you get something. The joy when you nailed it
This was so exciting. I cheered when Vivi got what she was going for. More Vivi please!
I would love to see what Vivi can do with a little more practice on the step up dynos. She wasn't able to get anywhere near the amount of jump off the step that she is obviously capable of. Amazing.
Her strength and determination was one of the coolest things I’ve ever seen!
Nevermind a world record. I want the link to 2:37 video. 😂 just to know if it’s real or not
Right now I do your hangboard routine before my sessions and seeing you do it on a frictitious doorway mount (which I also use) brought me a strange amount of satisfaction
To each his own. I think this view of dynos shifts when one gets a bit older. As someone who started climbing in their 40's and is now 50, it doesn't appeal to me and the risk of injury is too much to take. Not being able to climb, in my case, is a lot more impactful than not being able to dyno.
That's perfectly fair, most of what I said was more so to build up to the actual video. Personally my favorite move is probably a good old static lock-off from some hard edges
@@EmilAbrahamsson Thanks Emil! I will admit, seeing my 11 year old and the rest of the youngins' fly all over the place is fun to watch. Keep up the good work!
I'm 52 now, I still have a go at the dynos. Not saying I'm good at them but I'll give it a go
@@davesmith1588 Good on ya, Dave! Keep repping for us mature gentlemen.
Not to put too fine a point on it but I do have some underlying mechanical issues due to a couple of cancer runs. However, the old farts at my gym all tend to avoid them.
I still think they look cool. Seeing someone do a double paddle coordination type dyno is pretty amazing.
You have indeed the opportunity to join the Saint Static Society (SSS) which I have founded. We, old static climbers, know it better.
I absolutely love the way her hair looks. Especially when she is falling. The way it bobs and bounces is just mesmerizing.
That girl's an absolute unit damn
Small warning; tried buying that hangboard in the UK... Went from about £170 to £300 after shipping haaa... :(
Vivi you are an absolute beast with your strength and charisma. Thank you very much for the breakdowns and victory’s on the walls.😊
I was almost jumping with you on my sofa during my breakfast. Good and fun video, thanks. Good warm up just by watching ;)
Great video, love how you synced up the music with the final successful attempts.
now I'm psyched
absolutely loved the video
Haha, I had to pause this a few minutes in because it shamed me for not doing my no-hang routine yet today :D
what a crusher! Those muscle ups at the end...
My sport in bouldering is to undyno routes with dynos built in.
I don't have a hangboard... I just do pullups on the door framing... lol
Maybe the your most enjoyable video so far. You have the best climbimg chemistry!
Call me old school but personally, I’d watch a video of a gnarly crimp being locked off over a dyno anyday 😅. It’s much more impressive and hardcore imo.
Agreed
Vivi is an absolute crusher!!!
I first used the dyno in parkour, but it’s such a useful movement to unlock.
That chin bruise is a badge of honor if I've ever seen one!
You make it look really easy.
3:51
bro is wearing chainmail socks
Skyler’s dyno (Zion) was downgraded pretty significantly by subsequent ascensionists because of a high foot that Skyler didn’t use. I think it’s settled around V9 (7C) instead of V16 (8C+). Seemingly, there’s an open dyno project right next to it though that may be truly V Hard
The second ascent did it in 3 attempts vs. 76 days for the FA. 😟
Vivi is there…awesome
I love that last dyno advice! I'll make sure to "Eat a lot of shit" during my next session.
Also, great video as always!
Burden of dreams definitely doesn't finish on a (forced) paddle dyno haha, but I get the joke
Dude, the " Local Basketball Team " kinda got to me xD
They're the second best NBA team of the season. Now I get he probably doesn't know much about Basketball. But yeh, idk. But good video! :D
Wow, impressive strength and coordination! She's so explosive and fast. I wonder if she could get even higher with a ponytail - at her speed air resistance might be a factor ;-)
Vivi's Dyno School: Eat sh!t and dyno!
Vivi is great.... so strong! 🙏
.
It is time for climbers and GWR to grow up with record keeping. All boxing and MMA have weight categories for champions. It is ridiculous to expect a 5' 7" (170cm) guy who may have a 69 inch(175cm) reach or less, to make the same dyno as a guy 7' 6"(228.6cm) who may have a similar reach. IMO, competition categories should be base on full reach/extension. Standing flat footed, reaching as high as you possible can with one hand, what is the total distance? The divide it into 4"(10cm) divisions. There will be people that can reach 7.5 ft(229cm) and those that can reach 9 ft(274cm) or more.
Holy shit, I‘ve never heard Emil talk swedish before, this just sounds strange😂
Matilda low key in the background. What a gym!
Amazing video! So cool to see you both going for the absolut limit! Amazing to watch such commitment!
You could maybe just measure the distance between the bolt holes.
In hindsight that would’ve made a lot more sense. Baboon brain no work
I wanna see Vivi on Rainbow Rocket!
Let's warmp up!
7B...
Hooly hell her muscle ups are so damn clean. absolute beast!
Love the vid, made me want to boulder even more. How more you do it, how more you love it!
18:04 Matilda Söderlung Cameo
luckily i live in a scandinavian 50's post ww2 cheapo apartment. door ways/frames sticks out like a cm. enough to hang and to do pullups on. with my frame im just about able to do it. body type: gymnastic/powerlifter 78kg about 183cm. would i as a non climber benefit from a hangboard. i usually to do rings, monkey bars weighted dips, and so on.
Looks very similar to a Fontainbleau Problem called Rainbow Rocket!
vivi is a goddamned delight. engaging video for a non-climber
That was fantastic insight and exactly the kind of video I was hoping for. Thank you so much! I like Nothing Mores latest stuff, wasnt a fan of the last record, but loved the three they put out before that. Saw them live a couple of times here in Germany and was always very impressed with Jonnys live vocals. I always wondered how he's able to put so much weight and power in his high notes. But makes total sense that its because he got such a high speaking voice. If you could get him to talk about his singing in an Interview, that'd be awesome.
Haha nice to get a little insight in the YT climber algorithm and recognizing most recommended videos 😂👌🏻 0:45
Haha whoops, thought I blurred that 😂 summarises my TH-cam watching pretty well though to be fair
I've never understood why the rest of the gym users just continue with what they are doing and don't watch.
I mean I feel like I wouldn’t just sit there and watch other people climb I’d rather be doing my own climbs especially if it’s people you already see at the gym all the time
This move might have just inspired me to try this hobby
Oh you even think about it you just have to, it's too good of a hobby and lifestyle to miss out!! Just be prepared to get some initial shocks at how fast your hand get tired and how sore they get the first weeks or so. It's insanely fun to climb!!
@@nosreuter Every job ive ever worked at eventually calls me a monkey and I consistently outclimb my peers whenever a climbing rock wall shows up but thats the full extent of my exposure to this hobby lol.
Genuinely thanks for the encouragement, Im going to make the effort and take the plunge!
The way I got so hype at the end omg
I got a tear in my eye! Amazing!
For off-the-wall power training, it seems people put so much emphasis on feet off upper body exercises, yet the vast majority of power in dynamic climbing movements is generated through the lower body. A lot of gains being left on the table here.
I hereby officially request that Swedish gyms set more challenge problems like this, bathangs and cracks so there's a reasonable way to train technique other than on the ones that happen to pop up every other year if you're lucky.
Vivvi strong🔥💪
12:05
The Final Countdown! Heck yeah!
actually the record is 2.96 by toby segar last year
14:48 - didn't match, doesn't count ❤
Casually shows us footage of the rocket dyno with Emil and B-Dog in Fontainebleau 😮
When I was climbing we used to call those 'lunges' Of course, I climbed back when people climbed outdoors on rock. -John in Boulder
That figure. More insane than the dyno.
You’re both so insanely strong
i was visiting Stockholm for vacation in September and almost decided to visit the Moumo gym (on Vivi's t-shirt)... Decided to get a top-rope green card instead. It's still on my list of things to do... to visit that gym and the cafe.
Great vid as always.. but saying dynos sets climbing apart from other sports is simply wrong. Dynos are a core component of parkour, way more than in climbing.
Well Done to both of you.
Funnily enough that "V16" dyno is just down the road from where I used to live. I has been repeated several times and the current consensus is V8, making it potentially the largest downgrade ever th-cam.com/video/cB6ChHN0IEw/w-d-xo.html
Haha love that, funny to hear. V16-V8 is an insane difference, I wonder how it compares to stuff like rainbow rocket and the V8s next to it? Any idea?
@@EmilAbrahamsson I though it was easier than rainbow rocket, but harder than the lines to the left. It does feel a bit harder than other V8 dynos but certainly not 8 grades harder 😂
what do you say about this 8a?
th-cam.com/video/X4veXwLe_6w/w-d-xo.html
Blud it’s the one thing that connects climbing to other sports😂
prob use dif measuring tape or cut string to the length you want, nib the ends so it doesnt fray, and use those premeasured, and pre stretched, strings to determine set lengths. That tape looked real floppy and not super accurate, however that could just be how it looked in edit.
when u did ur flash go on the world record my heart dropped for a second with where the ladder was
I just started trying to get better at dynos. I have a long way to go 😅
Hope Vivis tips at the end can help out a bit!
@@EmilAbrahamsson They were good tips for building strength, but what I really lack is proper technique lol
They forgot to mention when you are starting out it is good to yell PARKOUR very loudly.
The first dyno you showed was at 0:50 . You know what it is right ?
WELCOME TO THE CHURCH!
Did you see the video of Toby Segar trying this dyno on Josh Rundle's channel?
Vivi reminds me of my fiancé with the hair. I have the Brazilian version of vivi. I’m hoping as she starts climbing more with me her results are similar hahaha
That's impressive! You should try to officialize it!
Bro i can't even cross the monkey bars
MARRY THIS WOMAN!
Make a climber army of super human Olympians. 😂❤
Church of dynology mentioned
y'all are absolute beasts
Hey Emil, you mentioned before the frictitious hangboard you were using a portable board. i have one that ive been using daily now and its helping fix a tweaked finger. how did you determine how much to pull each time? i dont have enough weights at home to be close to my own weight, so i've been attaching it to a resistance band instead. i dont know how efficient it is, but it seems to help a little bit. any tips from anyone would be appreciated! anyway thats the end of my ramble no one will see, great video as always!
anyone know what chalk bag that they are using? i can see there is an e9 logo on it but also a scarpa one. i have done numerous searches for it but cannot seem to find it