How to install HAM and CB antennas

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Here is how to install a Ham and CB antenna the right way. Antennas need good mounts and grounds in order to work correctly. In this video, we go through the process of installing both ham and CB radio antennas. We also go over how to test the grounding of your antennas and how to add a ground to your antenna mount if you have a poor ground.
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#overland #explore #getoutside

[@kellygay1354]

I agree. The better the ground the easier it is to tune the swr. And with a jeep or any high profile or of road vehicle a quick disconnect is a must. Great video.

[@EmbarkWithMark]

I used to never run quick disconnects. I’ve learned. Haha. Thank you!

[@Adrian-jk4kx]

Yes I found that too...SWR was erratic until I grounded the outer coax via the antenna mount to a hidden bolt on the roof bars . As you say, much easier to SWR after.

[@dbarr1661]

the OL on your meter refers to "open line", meaning theres no continuity in a side of line

[@user-sm5ry8bl4r]

I know 😂 i don't know how many people I've seen not know what it means

[@howardholt6206]

Awesome video you are one of the few operators that will mention Ham and CB in the same sentence. I love both also. Keep up the good work.

[@EmbarkWithMark]

Much appreciated!

[@nu3qamateurradio930]

I suggest putting a braided ground strap from your antenna brackets to the frame.

[@EmbarkWithMark]

Never a bad idea!

[@joetripi3255]

You could have just sanded it off the area of the rack where the antenna bracket is

[@meetthebutcher]

I have a feeling you are going to regret not using aircraft nuts on those bracket installs-at least some blue lock-tite-all this based on your choice of vehicle and their reputation for poor ride and bone-jarring suspension characteristics, even if left in the OEM configuration. Especially recalling your comment in this video foreshadowing future hitting of trees and other low entryways. A rule to apply when adding hard-mounted accessories to two categories of vehicles is: #1, if they can operate on water. #2: If they are designed to or have been modified to operate off-road. If your application falls under #1 or #2, then apply this rule to avoid future mount issues. This rule has two parts and is just good practice, omitting any special use parts with a fix for a known safety issue. (Like a break-away base mount for an off-road vehicle flag, manufactured to snap off at the mounting point in a collision, reducing the risk of the flag pole becoming dangerous at impact velocity speeds determined by the manufacture, much like modern lamp posts and street signs close to roadways, which snap off at the ground and give up all their tinsel strength, rigidly greatly reducing damage during a collision event.) Part 1: Use stainless steel hardware. If you have the option to choose stainless steel for your project, avoid the non-stainless choices. Stainless steel stands alone in strength and anti-corrosive attributes and will last much longer on a vehicle exposed to outdoor environments and weather. Part 2: Always use vibration-resistant mounting hardware (if none is available, a temporary fix would be to use blue lock-tite when installing until better hardware becomes available to the installer; also, a safety cable can be installed, preventing the loss of mounted items or equipment during the vehicle's operation). Aircraft nuts for bolts are an excellent choice, followed by carter pins, roll-over pins, and locking washers. A dab of silicone or RTV under the head of a screw or bolt helps prevent corrosion when mounting requires drilling through the mounting point, removing anti-corrosive coating applied by the OEM, and will hold screws and bolts in place when applied to a properly prepped surface while providing a buffer to abrasion over time between mounting hardware and mounting surfaces prolonging accelerated corrosion due to friction damage to protective coatings applied to any mounting point surface, the same enhanced protection from trapped moisture can be expected from the application of silicone or RTV to mounting hardware where contact is made and rests or covers any mounting surface now covered by brackets or bolt/ screw heads.

[@pache2112]

🤓

[@TwoFeatherChannel]

actually that meter does beep for continuity. the sound symbol above the diode symbol means it beeps
on those cheaper version meters you will have to press FUNC and scroll to the sound section first
unlike the more expensive brands like Fluke which have sound and visual automatically

[@EmbarkWithMark]

Learn something new everyday, thank you!

[@TwoFeatherChannel]

@@EmbarkWithMark you're welcome. I found out that a few years ago. I've used my $300.+ Fluke for many years, it's good for a more secure jobsite use and purchased a cheaper Southwire brand several years ago for less secure jobsites and didn't know why it didn't beep like the Fluke does. Found out later in the manual.

[@tire26]

Or you could have just rung it out which is the whole point in the continuity function.

[@thomaswaldorf9141]

It's very obvious you don't know much about what you are doing.

[@MadNlGER]

Novice thinks he’s a pro bc he put it in 4x4 once and someone said 10:4 to him once. 😆

[@EmbarkWithMark]

You have it so wrong. I think I'm a pro cause i've installed two radios. In two different 4x4s none the less!

[@pache2112]

Oh henry!