You should reverse the fan so that it pulls the air though the filters. Rather the the current setup of trying to push the air through the filters. You should get a higher CFM that way.
When filters were first added to forced air heating systems, it wasn't done for occupant health or comfort, but to protect the motors from dust and lint collecting on them. That was a fire hazard. Still, the most efficient way to move the air is to pull like front wheel drive, not push like rear wheel drive. These guys are right. If you put an exhaust fan into your shop in the future, put the fan at the end closest to the outlet. It'll be more efficient, and quieter too. Perhaps you've seen the silver domes on walls and roofs of commercial buildings; They're usually exhaust fans. You may want a heat exchanger for your return air if you heat or cool your shop.
I got a 320 CFM 6" duct booster fan. My Garage is 20x20x12. Thats 4800 cubic feet. Right over my welding bench I have semi-rigid pipe about 18" away from the welding project. I also have a varialble speed motor control. All fumes are exhausted through 6" duct and out the side under the eve with a decorative vent cover. at about 220 CFM measured with an Anemometer, that gives a total air turn over time in the space of 4800/220 = 21.82 or about 22 minutes. Most of my welding projects are about 15 to 30 minute spurts. It really doesn't take that much to keep the area heated. Actually, when I take the time to position, I can get the cfm down to about 175, and it works even better. This is much better. Cost for a 220 vent fan is about 20 bux on ebay. Its about a dollar a foot for 6"duct. Very ecomomical. Mine was a little more involved so I got a variable speed motor control and a larger capacity duct booster fan because I didnt know what to expect. You can do fine without that. The only thing you have to worry about is moving too much air in a gas/mig setup. I use mostly stick, so this method works fantastic.
You may be removing "smoke partials and smells" but you are not addressing toxins, Carbon dioxide, monoxide, flux and other potentially accumulative chemicals. The best option is a dedicated duct system to draw all welding fumes to the outside.
your fan is slowing down because of the restrictions the air has as it passes through the filter system. when you opened the box and the fan ramps up your breaking the seal and easing the path of resistance. There's no airflow issue. you've made a good setup that can only be improved by adding seals of some sort.
Uh, anyone who watches this, this isn't a fume extractor. It is a particulate filter. poisonous gases will still remain. getting rid of particles and odor isn't enough. Please don't rely on this for fumes!
Well, if i look closer to that fan, it's a static preassure fan, which means it is meant to pull air through condenser / evaporator coil rather than pushing the air. If you run it in reverse, it won't be efficient.
Interesting set up. Not sure it's going to do as much as a commercially designed fume extractor, but its probably better than nothing. Welding certain metals produces very toxic fumes (so I've been told) and I wouldn't bet my lungs and life on the DYI extractor unless I knew the filters were rated for those fumes. I'd also exercise care in welding near the foam insulation on those walls. I understand some types of foam insulation are flammable and they can produce toxic fumes while burning. The best defense against that, of course, is to sheet rock the interior of your shop. Anyway, nice video and be safe!
You could mount fan on outside wall to blow out. Put welding table in front of it. Install vents that close when fan is not blowing. Next you need a source of outside air to feed fan. Same would work for paint booth. Build booth against outside wall with fan.
ive made similar using nothing but a boxfan, ducttape and a the biggest car filter i could find from walmart, worked pretty well for hobby use on a budget but inevitably fell apart after days of use. im going to try your idea of having a more solid (and cool looking) unit.
Nice set up. I will be doing something similar for when I build my powder coat booth. Something that will help the life of your fan. Put a semi-cheap filter in front of the fan, sealing around the perimeter. Just make sure you devise a way to change it out. This will keep particles from building up on the blades and inside the motor windings. Not only will it help your fan stay clean, it will keep more junk out of the expensive filters I will be using box fans like you suggested. But, putting them on "light dimmer" switches so I can control the air flow. When powder coating, too much air flow can not only pull powder from the part. Also it can introduce dust particles in the paint. Like your channel .. you do great work!
3:00 i just came from watching a Stuff Made Hear video and i think you instinctively replicated what he did with using an indirect air path- baffles- to knock down a lot of the particles before they ever hit a filter. it's kind of interesting how far just having observed mechanical systems in everyday life, and just folk physics intuition, can take us.
take the blades off the motor shaft and flip it over so you will pull through the filters, also you probably know that the fan should have been mounted on the back side of the box.
Matt, your DIY smoke extractor is like putting a band aid on a broken arm. I suggest mounting that fan inside a duct with a motorized damper and bailing all that bad air out of your shop completely. I know you want to keep the heated air in, but not at the expense of your health. It's not just your lungs you should be concerned about. The chemicals you breathe from welding, painting, running engines, etc. get into your blood, tax your liver, and can cause collective problems over time just like smoking cigarettes. Just filtering the particulate matter (aka smoke) doesn't cut it. Sorry to burst your bubble, but your health is of paramount importance. Get that bad air out completely.
Bourne Accident Maybe so but it is really built solely for a few welding fumes here and there. I never expected it to clear paint vapors except for maybe to clear the smell while running overnight while I'm gone. I may add a outside vent option in the future but the shop is COMPLETELY sealed meaning if I were to try and blow air outside it wouldn't happen unless I also opened a window. For now I'm gonna run it as is for a while and see how it works.
BleepinJeep Fair enough and I suppose it's better than a hanky over your nose and mouth. But as I said, it filters particulate matter and that's about it. The chemicals remain in the air. Also, yes... your shop is as tight as a bulls ass at fly time. I get it. But if you are really smoking up the place, get that crap out and let the fresh air in. Your heat will recover quickly, your body won't.
Matt, have you ever seen the Red Green Show? This video is a lot like it. More so a segment called adventurers with Bill. Remember if the women don't find you hansom, they should at least find you handy.
BleepinJeep what you need to get is a carbon filter to get all of the bad fumes out of the air so you don't get lung cancer. The micro particle filters only filter out dust and very small debris. To make sure you extract harmful chemicals from the air you MUST use a carbon filter. I use a mini fume extractor that has a carbon filter in it to filter out fumes from soldering.
This would be the best solution, or install exhaust fans in the roof of the structure, seeing as much fume issues in a garage are going to be associated with heat, although doing this in the winter would be rough.
What about a sandwich. One fan pulling into the filters on the inside and one pulling the filtered air out? A least crack the garage door open for clean air to draw in a crack won't pulled enough dust to jump on the paint.
Hey matt! YO HAY! AAYO MATT! MATT!!! YO HAY! So i got an i6 4.0 that is blowing smoke and oil goes down fast. Any ideas if it is the head gasket, head, or piston rings? Let me know bud! Please n thank you Btw, Merry Christmas
thank ya bud, parrantlyyy i got piston slap out the ass so im just gonna go ahead and do an engine swap. you got any videos on that? and if not, i can do one. i just have a phone camera but its pretty good.
You should reverse the fan so that it pulls the air though the filters. Rather the the current setup of trying to push the air through the filters. You should get a higher CFM that way.
agreed... besides that, the fan motors and blades aren't getting slowly caked up...
When filters were first added to forced air heating systems, it wasn't done for occupant health or comfort, but to protect the motors from dust and lint collecting on them. That was a fire hazard. Still, the most efficient way to move the air is to pull like front wheel drive, not push like rear wheel drive. These guys are right. If you put an exhaust fan into your shop in the future, put the fan at the end closest to the outlet. It'll be more efficient, and quieter too. Perhaps you've seen the silver domes on walls and roofs of commercial buildings; They're usually exhaust fans. You may want a heat exchanger for your return air if you heat or cool your shop.
I agree...Just noticed the same thing after you brought it up. Pull the air through the filters !
That was my first thought. Fans suck better than they blow.
You could add baffles before the filters to reduce clogging too
I got a 320 CFM 6" duct booster fan. My Garage is 20x20x12. Thats 4800 cubic feet. Right over my welding bench I have semi-rigid pipe about 18" away from the welding project. I also have a varialble speed motor control. All fumes are exhausted through 6" duct and out the side under the eve with a decorative vent cover.
at about 220 CFM measured with an Anemometer, that gives a total air turn over time in the space of 4800/220 = 21.82 or about 22 minutes. Most of my welding projects are about 15 to 30 minute spurts. It really doesn't take that much to keep the area heated. Actually, when I take the time to position, I can get the cfm down to about 175, and it works even better.
This is much better. Cost for a 220 vent fan is about 20 bux on ebay. Its about a dollar a foot for 6"duct. Very ecomomical. Mine was a little more involved so I got a variable speed motor control and a larger capacity duct booster fan because I didnt know what to expect. You can do fine without that. The only thing you have to worry about is moving too much air in a gas/mig setup. I use mostly stick, so this method works fantastic.
You may be removing "smoke partials and smells" but you are not addressing toxins, Carbon dioxide, monoxide, flux and other potentially accumulative chemicals. The best option is a dedicated duct system to draw all welding fumes to the outside.
your fan is slowing down because of the restrictions the air has as it passes through the filter system. when you opened the box and the fan ramps up your breaking the seal and easing the path of resistance. There's no airflow issue. you've made a good setup that can only be improved by adding seals of some sort.
Uh, anyone who watches this, this isn't a fume extractor. It is a particulate filter. poisonous gases will still remain. getting rid of particles and odor isn't enough. Please don't rely on this for fumes!
Well, if i look closer to that fan, it's a static preassure fan, which means it is meant to pull air through condenser / evaporator coil rather than pushing the air. If you run it in reverse, it won't be efficient.
Interesting set up. Not sure it's going to do as much as a commercially designed fume extractor, but its probably better than nothing. Welding certain metals produces very toxic fumes (so I've been told) and I wouldn't bet my lungs and life on the DYI extractor unless I knew the filters were rated for those fumes.
I'd also exercise care in welding near the foam insulation on those walls. I understand some types of foam insulation are flammable and they can produce toxic fumes while burning. The best defense against that, of course, is to sheet rock the interior of your shop. Anyway, nice video and be safe!
You need to put the filters in front of the fan, that way you will filter more fumes and save the fan !
That will work for dust. Smoke is made of too smal of particals for those types of filters.
You could mount fan on outside wall to blow out. Put welding table in front of it. Install vents that close when fan is not blowing. Next you need a source of outside air to feed fan. Same would work for paint booth. Build booth against outside wall with fan.
MERV filter rating are 1-16. Air filters only go to 11. You need 16 for weld fumes.
ive made similar using nothing but a boxfan, ducttape and a the biggest car filter i could find from walmart, worked pretty well for hobby use on a budget but inevitably fell apart after days of use. im going to try your idea of having a more solid (and cool looking) unit.
Nice set up. I will be doing something similar for when I build my powder coat booth. Something that will help the life of your fan. Put a semi-cheap filter in front of the fan, sealing around the perimeter. Just make sure you devise a way to change it out. This will keep particles from building up on the blades and inside the motor windings. Not only will it help your fan stay clean, it will keep more junk out of the expensive filters
I will be using box fans like you suggested. But, putting them on "light dimmer" switches so I can control the air flow. When powder coating, too much air flow can not only pull powder from the part. Also it can introduce dust particles in the paint. Like your channel .. you do great work!
thanks for the compliments!
3:00 i just came from watching a Stuff Made Hear video and i think you instinctively replicated what he did with using an indirect air path- baffles- to knock down a lot of the particles before they ever hit a filter. it's kind of interesting how far just having observed mechanical systems in everyday life, and just folk physics intuition, can take us.
Any chances of a follow-up report on how this has been?
It might be better to have fan draw air through filters, like a furnace.
what if you take that extra box fan and placed it inside blowing strait into the filter.
I hope that exposed insulating foam is fire retardant, especially since you're welding in that space.
take the blades off the motor shaft and flip it over so you will pull through the filters, also you probably know that the fan should have been mounted on the back side of the box.
Matt, your DIY smoke extractor is like putting a band aid on a broken arm. I suggest mounting that fan inside a duct with a motorized damper and bailing all that bad air out of your shop completely. I know you want to keep the heated air in, but not at the expense of your health. It's not just your lungs you should be concerned about. The chemicals you breathe from welding, painting, running engines, etc. get into your blood, tax your liver, and can cause collective problems over time just like smoking cigarettes. Just filtering the particulate matter (aka smoke) doesn't cut it. Sorry to burst your bubble, but your health is of paramount importance. Get that bad air out completely.
Bourne Accident Maybe so but it is really built solely for a few welding fumes here and there. I never expected it to clear paint vapors except for maybe to clear the smell while running overnight while I'm gone. I may add a outside vent option in the future but the shop is COMPLETELY sealed meaning if I were to try and blow air outside it wouldn't happen unless I also opened a window. For now I'm gonna run it as is for a while and see how it works.
BleepinJeep Fair enough and I suppose it's better than a hanky over your nose and mouth. But as I said, it filters particulate matter and that's about it. The chemicals remain in the air. Also, yes... your shop is as tight as a bulls ass at fly time. I get it. But if you are really smoking up the place, get that crap out and let the fresh air in. Your heat will recover quickly, your body won't.
Adding activated charcoal filter layers may help, but will heavily impede airflow.
I would absolutely follow this advice, but I would add filters so I am not polluting the outside as well i.e. particulate matter.
i agree. build an hrv
You run that axial fan in reverse. The fan blade was not designed to run that way. You should reverse it.
At around 1:00>>"will it work, have no Idea"
could you tell me witch kind of type filters I have to juice for a smoking area name and type number if possible , thank you
Matt, have you ever seen the Red Green Show? This video is a lot like it. More so a segment called adventurers with Bill. Remember if the women don't find you hansom, they should at least find you handy.
Kar Bergy I watched that show as a kid, maybe it stuck!
you should put switch to interrupt hot wire not neutral
BleepinJeep what you need to get is a carbon filter to get all of the bad fumes out of the air so you don't get lung cancer. The micro particle filters only filter out dust and very small debris. To make sure you extract harmful chemicals from the air you MUST use a carbon filter. I use a mini fume extractor that has a carbon filter in it to filter out fumes from soldering.
Wouldn't it have been better to have the fan pulling the air thought the filters?
a in line ducted fan that has a high static pressure works better for that
Do you still have this? I'm thinking the motor might have burned out, by now. Just wondering.
When I started plasma torching this thing just didn't cut it.
Need a stronger fan.
looking forward to and update on this
Just turn the fan around to pull through the filters first.
This would be the best solution, or install exhaust fans in the roof of the structure, seeing as much fume issues in a garage are going to be associated with heat, although doing this in the winter would be rough.
I wouldn't try and reverse the polarity of the motor with the fan mounted in a ventri. It might hurt the fans efficiency.
Then just mount it backwards.
i guess i could mount it backwards but then the grill is on the wrong side...
BleepinJeep you has a welder :)
What size shop do you have there?
25x40
long arms sittin right beside ya lol
cant wait to see the video for em :)
What about a sandwich. One fan pulling into the filters on the inside and one pulling the filtered air out? A least crack the garage door open for clean air to draw in a crack won't pulled enough dust to jump on the paint.
Very cool idea!!!
you run the fan in reverse. that's not good
Twenty seconds into the video we have commercials? Great idea, I hope it works for you.
That is Google not the content creator.
Hey bleepinjeep was curious when you might post that how to video for replacing the fabric on the visor that go with replacing the headliner??
not sure, i havent recorded it yet...
Thats okay, I was just curious. thanks!
Made in germany💪🏼
are you related to Red Green, you r den used duct tape.
Awesome
U need a bigger box.
just fucking awesome bro thanks for the ideal
Not working
Hey matt! YO HAY! AAYO MATT! MATT!!! YO HAY! So i got an i6 4.0 that is blowing smoke and oil goes down fast. Any ideas if it is the head gasket, head, or piston rings? Let me know bud! Please n thank you
Btw, Merry Christmas
Yo, hay. Well unless you have oil in your coolant I would say your rings are bad and your engine needs a rebuild.
thank ya bud, parrantlyyy i got piston slap out the ass so im just gonna go ahead and do an engine swap. you got any videos on that? and if not, i can do one. i just have a phone camera but its pretty good.
bleepinjeep No annotations to click in the end of the video for like T-shirt or a donation.
sorry, i usually add those once a month or so...