I'm all on board the Garberg train given two conditions; the price is right and it's the stainless version. I've bought probably half a dozen of the stainless variants off Amazon for between $60 and $65, I've just had to shop around a bit and strike when the iron was hot. They make great gifts and great knives to drop into a bag, or a glovebox, or a toolbox to just live there until you need it. They're super tough, hold an edge very well, and come right back to life with a few flicks down a ceramic rod or a hone.
The only reason i like the stainless option over the carbon is salt water, i carry a Morakniv (woodcarving basic) as my main belt knife for outdoor activities and when i go fishing i don't have to worry about rust or discoloring white fish when fileting them. nice video, have a nice day :)
my fav survival knife...they are just amazing,i have four,two of each,and ive tested and tried them out a LOT,definitely the Stainless for me,it is simply easier to maintain...but i love both..fantastic knife!!
I just own both lol I believe you misunderstood when they said the stainless doesn’t throw sparks. What they meant is it doesn’t throw sparks when you strike it in the spine with flint when the Carbon version does throw sparks from the spine when you strike it with flint. Good video, Garberg is in my top three favorite knives
Excellent video. I have the Mora Basic carbon (uncoated). First time I used it and then washed it, it patina all over the blade. Aside from looking stained, it still works great.
I ordered the Carbon Version in DalaRed. My Bushcraft Black has a Carbon-Blade too, so I decided to take it on the Garberg too. Carbon makes me happier…
The ss Garberg is rated around 58 rockwell and I can't find anything specific about the hardness of the carbon steel one but basically the same they say. 58 to 60 maybe. 58 is a very good all around hardness for a camp knife. Of course the ss version is more food safe and corrosion resistant but both suck at food prep anyway. The only advantage you get from the carbon one is that it throws (more) sparks when used with a flint. In my career as survival instructor since 1986 I never heard a story about somebody saving his/her life because he/she was able to make a fire using the knife as the steel on a flint. It's something they do in LARP but not in real life. The disadvantage of the carbon steel one is of course it needs a lot more maintenance. It actually needs more field sharpening also. Rust will occur on the very edge and dulls the knife.
I have the leather sheath with a dangler for my Garberg SS. But I’ll get the plastic one for my jungle work as I have had leather go mouldy in the humidity of a rainforest. I do like that kydex sheath may have to get one the next time I’m over in kl.
👍 I do not disagree with anything you said. Good review. Just FYI: I own the carbon steel Garberg simply because I like carbon steel knives (a personal choice). I don’t use this knife in an environment where a stainless blade is required and I do maintain my knives so thus far in my 64 years of using carbon steel blades rust has not been an issue. Until my recent purchase of a Parang my Garberg was my do-it-all knife when I took it along with me (the same is true of all my carbon steel knives). Thus far (🤞) no health issues. And, as you pointed out I use knives for what they are intended - cutting & slicing. I have re-profiled the edge on my Garberg to a convex grind with a steeper grind angle. I have also changed my Garberg from the original clip style point to a standard drop point. I use the basic plastic sheath and carry it on my belt. Sadly, (🤷🏻♂️) with my modified (extended cutting edge back to within an inch of the handle) Parang from My Parang I may be changing up my kit to include only the Parang and a Victorinox Outridder SAK leaving my Garberg at home more.
I have concerns about coated blades when it comes to food prep. I think the Kansbol has a blade shape better suited for food prep. I like to Baldric carry (over the shoulder) this knife and the multi mount adapts well to this with the correct strap. Flint & steel and ferocerium rods get confused quite often so blade steel is only an issue with flint .Fero rods will throw a spark with any sharp edge. If you buy one Mora you will probably buy another cuz they are very useable and affordable knives. This can take the pressure off which one should I buy.
I love my stainless mora. I made a kydex sheath. I just don't have confidence in the standard sheath. The multi mount is great but when i put it on my belt it doesn't have enough retention. Nice video brother 👍
I have to agree ,the stainless garberg is superb, a knife I have really come to trust, I am certainly happy I bought it, it's all the knife you need.,👍🏻. I know you get people saying it's no good for this and that, but any knife that's ever been designed as a do all survival knife ends up being good at nothing. 👍🏻
I own Mora Buschcraft Black C for 1/4 the price of Garberg (30€). They are literally the same knifes but only difference is fulltang. Thus you can choose to buy either 4 Bushcraft Black knifes or 1 Garberg :)....I would reccomend rather buying Sissipukko M95 , Teravva Jakaripukko 140 or Condor Terrasaur!
Your assertions about the properties of these two steels is incorrect. Dr Larrin Thomas over at knifesteelnerds has shown that not only does 14C28N steel have twice the toughness, but ALSO HAS twice the edge retention of 1095 steel. That is counterintuitive to previous beliefs but shown to be fact by empirical data measurement. Hardness is mostly dependent on heat treatment and both of these steels are generally brought to a hardness of 56-58 HRC when used in knife building, so the hardness is very similar.
I have both I like both. Wet environment I prefer stainless because it takes less maintenance, especially salt water. I keep my carbon oiled, no need with stainless.
1095 shows as about 30% tougher than 14c28n on the KnifeInformer charts. It isn't a universal rule that softer is inherently tougher, but there are some trends. Extra hardening on the same alloy reduces strength. But the different alloys have different starting points. Too much chromium tends to reduce strength, which reduces toughness. Too much carbon tends to reduce strength. 1095 has a little too much carbon. The sweet spot seems to be around 0.8% carbon, especially if you mix in a small amount (less than 8%) of chromium. These alloys are about twice as tough as 1095. Some people don't realize when toughness counts. It isn't just about batoning or hitting some sand on the work. It's also about side loading, such as happens during tight, curvy notching cuts (especially in hardwood), scraping or when you hit a knot and the grain goes askew. Overall strength kind of tracks like toughness. Excess carbon, chromium and hardening tend to reduce strength. But there are other factors, such as silicon, which improves flexibility in spring steels. These factors still favor 1095 over 14c28n, while 1084 and 80crv2 are much better at similar hardness. Softer steels like 1075 and 5160 are even stronger, but most people notice significant edge retention issues due to the lower hardness. High chromium (stainless) steels can be harder to sharpen for two reasons. They may be quite hard in some alloys, due to chromium carbides, but they also tend to have difficult burr problems. 440C is infamous for being annoying to sharpen due to a finicky burr and large carbides. That's why finer grained stainless alloys have become so popular, such as VG10 and AUS8, which include vanadium and other tricks to reduce the grain size. You have misrepresented the sparking issue. Carbon steel knives can generate sparks when struck by hard flint-type minerals. Stainless knives cannot, because the steel particles don't burn due to their corrosion resistance. It is NOT about fire steels, but old school flint and steel. So if you lose your ferro rod, you can still generate small sparks using your carbon Garberg and a carefully selected piece of hard crystalline rock. You'll need very good tinder to catch the spark, such as fine dry sawdust or char cloth.
Knifeinformer has a lot of incorrect information. Go take a look on knifesteelnerds, 14c28n is about 3x as tough as 1095. It's a razor blade steel, it has to be flexible. 1095 is used because it's cheap and for no other reason
Although the carbon does have more tensile strength in real world use I don't think it makes much difference. And of course your point about throwing sparks is correct. Stainless or carbon makes zero difference with a ferro rod. The only difference is that only a carbon blade will create a spark off a (suitable rock) after around 500 attempts.
I love the colors which carbon steel gets, but I prefer stainless steel for outdoor use. Don't have to be afraid of the rain or humidity. Also there's no need to clean and dry a knife after use, to oil it. The less duties during camping evenings, the better 😅
UHB-20C and 1095 are distinct materials. UHB-20C contains only 0.20% carbon, while 1095 contains 0.95% carbon. The UHB-20C steel used by Mora is respectable, but it does not retain sharpness as effectively as 1095, nor does it compare to their stainless steel variants.
I think you might be the one with the misconception about number 4. I've never heard anyone say that the stainless Mora knives can't throw sparks from a ferro rod. All that requires is a sharp 90 degree spine. What's often said is that stainless steel won't throw sparks when struck with a piece of flint. Flint and steel is not the same thing as a ferro rod. People who focus on survival, as opposed to just bushcraft, camping and work duties, like the idea of having something you could use to start a fire with flint and other stones that can be found out in the wilderness. Personally, I prefer stainless but there are definitely pros and cons to both.
Thanks. No I am clear on that. I've seen quite a few comments regarding the ferro rod, which is why I included it. Flint and Steel is completely different. Thanks.
@h.h.1266 It has better edge retention so does not need to be sharpened as much. And if they want to start a fire with flint and steel, carbon steel is needed. Other than that, it could be to stick to tradition.
The stainless version is much better, it's a better steel than simple carbon especially for the price. Neither is a good value, though. The only advantage to the carbon version is that if you lose all your ferro rods you might be able to wreck your knife striking sparks from the spine.
I've had good luck nabbing stainless Garbergs off Amazon for as low as $60 flat, usually around $65, which is a great price for that particular knife. I really like the stainless they use as well; it's durable, holds an edge well, and is super easy to touch up with a ceramic rod or a hone. I just wish they'd come out with a variant in burnt orange with a spear point tip.
To me the biggest misconception is that the Garberg is good value for money, there’s plenty of knives available that are as good or better for the same price or less.
@urbanknifeguy I like Mora Garberg, but there are similar style military grade puukko knives on the same price range. You can Google the following: -Varusteleka's Terävä Jääkäripuukko -Peltonen knives Sissipuukko -Rokka Korpisoturi puukko (the most expensive one) I'm planning to buy all of these at some point, including Mora Garberg. At the moment I've Jääkäripuukko 140.
@@urbanknifeguygo learn about knife steel at knifesteelnerds where Dr Thomas, inventor of Magnacut SS has all the empirical data for essentially all steels used in knife making. You will be amazed just how wrong you are.
These are great knives, but the Morakniv folks must be insane for charging around $100 USD for these knives, especially during these economically challenging times.
They're doing it to take advantage of youtube bushcrafters who think batoning is a good idea and therefore insist on a full tang. it would be a great knife if it was priced a little higher than the companion but it is a sucker choice as-is
This is about the most bs video on knives available today… I have never heard/read anyone make any of these claims. Also, you TH-cam “knife professionals” (more bs) need to stop selling the “carbon steel/D2 blades chip/break easier” nonsense. If you break a knife like the Garberg, it’s because you are misusing the tool… something you guys seem to LOVE to do. (I work in the woods and or field every dry day of the year, & I use knives & axes daily. I know of what I speak… rather than just speaking it.)
Thanks for your comments. 1) If one has never heard or read something, it must have never happened. 2) While I cannot speak for other people, I have never claimed to be a "knife professional" 3) No where in the video does it assert that carbon steel blades chip/ break easily 4) It was specifically stated in the video that knives should be used as intended so there is no reason that they break or get damaged I'm not sure where this anger is coming from, but tone it down. This channel does not condone aggression or bullying. Have a great day.
@@urbanknifeguyhe’s angry because your basic understanding of these two steels has been definitively proven false by Dr Larrin Thomas, who by the way, invented Magnacut.
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I'm all on board the Garberg train given two conditions; the price is right and it's the stainless version. I've bought probably half a dozen of the stainless variants off Amazon for between $60 and $65, I've just had to shop around a bit and strike when the iron was hot. They make great gifts and great knives to drop into a bag, or a glovebox, or a toolbox to just live there until you need it. They're super tough, hold an edge very well, and come right back to life with a few flicks down a ceramic rod or a hone.
Thanks for your comment and your tips on getting the best price!
The only reason i like the stainless option over the carbon is salt water, i carry a Morakniv (woodcarving basic) as my main belt knife for outdoor activities and when i go fishing i don't have to worry about rust or discoloring white fish when fileting them. nice video, have a nice day :)
my fav survival knife...they are just amazing,i have four,two of each,and ive tested and tried them out a LOT,definitely the Stainless for me,it is simply easier to maintain...but i love both..fantastic knife!!
@@vegarddlmo2298 Thanks for sharing!
I live in my state, and I think the stainless will be the correct choice for me here on the east coast! I'm ordering one this week!👍🏻👍🏻
I just own both lol I believe you misunderstood when they said the stainless doesn’t throw sparks. What they meant is it doesn’t throw sparks when you strike it in the spine with flint when the Carbon version does throw sparks from the spine when you strike it with flint. Good video, Garberg is in my top three favorite knives
if the stainless is a 14c28n, it will throw sparks
Excellent video. I have the Mora Basic carbon (uncoated). First time I used it and then washed it, it patina all over the blade. Aside from looking stained, it still works great.
I ordered the Carbon Version in DalaRed. My Bushcraft Black has a Carbon-Blade too, so I decided to take it on the Garberg too. Carbon makes me happier…
@@marcdomin6479 Nice! Thanks for sharing!
The ss Garberg is rated around 58 rockwell and I can't find anything specific about the hardness of the carbon steel one but basically the same they say. 58 to 60 maybe. 58 is a very good all around hardness for a camp knife. Of course the ss version is more food safe and corrosion resistant but both suck at food prep anyway. The only advantage you get from the carbon one is that it throws (more) sparks when used with a flint. In my career as survival instructor since 1986 I never heard a story about somebody saving his/her life because he/she was able to make a fire using the knife as the steel on a flint. It's something they do in LARP but not in real life. The disadvantage of the carbon steel one is of course it needs a lot more maintenance. It actually needs more field sharpening also. Rust will occur on the very edge and dulls the knife.
The carbon one does have more tensile strength but in real life use I don't see how that matters one bit, unless you're using it to abseil from.
@@Darrenski Indeed.
@@Darrenski 1095 higher tensile strength than 14c28n? Yea okay buddy. Lmao.
Garberg carbon is a great option, great knife.
I have the leather sheath with a dangler for my Garberg SS. But I’ll get the plastic one for my jungle work as I have had leather go mouldy in the humidity of a rainforest. I do like that kydex sheath may have to get one the next time I’m over in kl.
👍 I do not disagree with anything you said. Good review.
Just FYI:
I own the carbon steel Garberg simply because I like carbon steel knives (a personal choice). I don’t use this knife in an environment where a stainless blade is required and I do maintain my knives so thus far in my 64 years of using carbon steel blades rust has not been an issue.
Until my recent purchase of a Parang my Garberg was my do-it-all knife when I took it along with me (the same is true of all my carbon steel knives). Thus far (🤞) no health issues.
And, as you pointed out I use knives for what they are intended - cutting & slicing.
I have re-profiled the edge on my Garberg to a convex grind with a steeper grind angle. I have also changed my Garberg from the original clip style point to a standard drop point.
I use the basic plastic sheath and carry it on my belt.
Sadly, (🤷🏻♂️) with my modified (extended cutting edge back to within an inch of the handle) Parang from My Parang I may be changing up my kit to include only the Parang and a Victorinox Outridder SAK leaving my Garberg at home more.
I have concerns about coated blades when it comes to food prep. I think the Kansbol has a blade shape better suited for food prep. I like to Baldric carry (over the shoulder) this knife and the multi mount adapts well to this with the correct strap. Flint & steel and ferocerium rods get confused quite often so blade steel is only an issue with flint .Fero rods will throw a spark with any sharp edge. If you buy one Mora you will probably buy another cuz they are very useable and affordable knives. This can take the pressure off which one should I buy.
I'm assuming that the information given will transfer to all mora knives. I have a mora companion HD. Good video.
I love my stainless mora. I made a kydex sheath. I just don't have confidence in the standard sheath. The multi mount is great but when i put it on my belt it doesn't have enough retention.
Nice video brother 👍
I have to agree ,the stainless garberg is superb, a knife I have really come to trust, I am certainly happy I bought it, it's all the knife you need.,👍🏻. I know you get people saying it's no good for this and that, but any knife that's ever been designed as a do all survival knife ends up being good at nothing. 👍🏻
I own Mora Buschcraft Black C for 1/4 the price of Garberg (30€). They are literally the same knifes but only difference is fulltang. Thus you can choose to buy either 4 Bushcraft Black knifes or 1 Garberg :)....I would reccomend rather buying Sissipukko M95 , Teravva Jakaripukko 140 or Condor Terrasaur!
Your assertions about the properties of these two steels is incorrect. Dr Larrin Thomas over at knifesteelnerds has shown that not only does 14C28N steel have twice the toughness, but ALSO HAS twice the edge retention of 1095 steel. That is counterintuitive to previous beliefs but shown to be fact by empirical data measurement. Hardness is mostly dependent on heat treatment and both of these steels are generally brought to a hardness of 56-58 HRC when used in knife building, so the hardness is very similar.
Thanks for enlightening!
Well, if you watch Joe X's destruction test of the stainless and carbon Garberg -- there was virtually no difference in toughness.
❤ great content, very informative. many thanks
Very good review, thank you.
I have both I like both. Wet environment I prefer stainless because it takes less maintenance, especially salt water. I keep my carbon oiled, no need with stainless.
1095 shows as about 30% tougher than 14c28n on the KnifeInformer charts. It isn't a universal rule that softer is inherently tougher, but there are some trends. Extra hardening on the same alloy reduces strength. But the different alloys have different starting points. Too much chromium tends to reduce strength, which reduces toughness. Too much carbon tends to reduce strength. 1095 has a little too much carbon. The sweet spot seems to be around 0.8% carbon, especially if you mix in a small amount (less than 8%) of chromium. These alloys are about twice as tough as 1095. Some people don't realize when toughness counts. It isn't just about batoning or hitting some sand on the work. It's also about side loading, such as happens during tight, curvy notching cuts (especially in hardwood), scraping or when you hit a knot and the grain goes askew.
Overall strength kind of tracks like toughness. Excess carbon, chromium and hardening tend to reduce strength. But there are other factors, such as silicon, which improves flexibility in spring steels. These factors still favor 1095 over 14c28n, while 1084 and 80crv2 are much better at similar hardness. Softer steels like 1075 and 5160 are even stronger, but most people notice significant edge retention issues due to the lower hardness.
High chromium (stainless) steels can be harder to sharpen for two reasons. They may be quite hard in some alloys, due to chromium carbides, but they also tend to have difficult burr problems. 440C is infamous for being annoying to sharpen due to a finicky burr and large carbides. That's why finer grained stainless alloys have become so popular, such as VG10 and AUS8, which include vanadium and other tricks to reduce the grain size.
You have misrepresented the sparking issue. Carbon steel knives can generate sparks when struck by hard flint-type minerals. Stainless knives cannot, because the steel particles don't burn due to their corrosion resistance. It is NOT about fire steels, but old school flint and steel. So if you lose your ferro rod, you can still generate small sparks using your carbon Garberg and a carefully selected piece of hard crystalline rock. You'll need very good tinder to catch the spark, such as fine dry sawdust or char cloth.
Knifeinformer has a lot of incorrect information. Go take a look on knifesteelnerds, 14c28n is about 3x as tough as 1095. It's a razor blade steel, it has to be flexible. 1095 is used because it's cheap and for no other reason
Although the carbon does have more tensile strength in real world use I don't think it makes much difference. And of course your point about throwing sparks is correct. Stainless or carbon makes zero difference with a ferro rod. The only difference is that only a carbon blade will create a spark off a (suitable rock) after around 500 attempts.
I love the colors which carbon steel gets, but I prefer stainless steel for outdoor use. Don't have to be afraid of the rain or humidity. Also there's no need to clean and dry a knife after use, to oil it. The less duties during camping evenings, the better 😅
Ok thankyou I think I will get the carbon one
You are welcome! Thanks for watching!
UHB-20C and 1095 are distinct materials. UHB-20C contains only 0.20% carbon, while 1095 contains 0.95% carbon.
The UHB-20C steel used by Mora is respectable, but it does not retain sharpness as effectively as 1095, nor does it compare to their stainless steel variants.
@Hawkings74 Thanks for that info!
I think you might be the one with the misconception about number 4. I've never heard anyone say that the stainless Mora knives can't throw sparks from a ferro rod. All that requires is a sharp 90 degree spine. What's often said is that stainless steel won't throw sparks when struck with a piece of flint. Flint and steel is not the same thing as a ferro rod.
People who focus on survival, as opposed to just bushcraft, camping and work duties, like the idea of having something you could use to start a fire with flint and other stones that can be found out in the wilderness. Personally, I prefer stainless but there are definitely pros and cons to both.
Thanks. No I am clear on that. I've seen quite a few comments regarding the ferro rod, which is why I included it. Flint and Steel is completely different. Thanks.
What’s the use for carbon then? Why should one get that over steel?
@h.h.1266 It has better edge retention so does not need to be sharpened as much. And if they want to start a fire with flint and steel, carbon steel is needed. Other than that, it could be to stick to tradition.
It’s easier to sharpen because its edge retention is half that of 14C28N SS.
Great video, Supported my rational for my choice.
Long time no see my friends, garberg always confused me a bit idk which would be better
The stainless version is much better, it's a better steel than simple carbon especially for the price. Neither is a good value, though. The only advantage to the carbon version is that if you lose all your ferro rods you might be able to wreck your knife striking sparks from the spine.
I've had good luck nabbing stainless Garbergs off Amazon for as low as $60 flat, usually around $65, which is a great price for that particular knife. I really like the stainless they use as well; it's durable, holds an edge well, and is super easy to touch up with a ceramic rod or a hone. I just wish they'd come out with a variant in burnt orange with a spear point tip.
Did you put kerosine on the tinder?
@@DJTrumpMAGA Nope. Natural jute rope for the tinder.
Florida- stainless
Both
To me the biggest misconception is that the Garberg is good value for money, there’s plenty of knives available that are as good or better for the same price or less.
@@colinburgess9455 thanks for your input. What are some fixed blades you think have better value with similar specs?
@@urbanknifeguy Even in the Mora lineup the Kansbol and Bushcraft lines are a much better value
@urbanknifeguy
I like Mora Garberg, but there are similar style military grade puukko knives on the same price range. You can Google the following:
-Varusteleka's Terävä Jääkäripuukko
-Peltonen knives Sissipuukko
-Rokka Korpisoturi puukko (the most expensive one)
I'm planning to buy all of these at some point, including Mora Garberg. At the moment I've Jääkäripuukko 140.
You are so very wrong!
@Kim-ir6fb Please enlighten as I always want to learn.
@@urbanknifeguygo learn about knife steel at knifesteelnerds where Dr Thomas, inventor of Magnacut SS has all the empirical data for essentially all steels used in knife making. You will be amazed just how wrong you are.
These are great knives, but the Morakniv folks must be insane for charging around $100 USD for these knives, especially during these economically challenging times.
They're doing it to take advantage of youtube bushcrafters who think batoning is a good idea and therefore insist on a full tang. it would be a great knife if it was priced a little higher than the companion but it is a sucker choice as-is
This is about the most bs video on knives available today… I have never heard/read anyone make any of these claims. Also, you TH-cam “knife professionals” (more bs) need to stop selling the “carbon steel/D2 blades chip/break easier” nonsense. If you break a knife like the Garberg, it’s because you are misusing the tool… something you guys seem to LOVE to do.
(I work in the woods and or field every dry day of the year, & I use knives & axes daily. I know of what I speak… rather than just speaking it.)
Thanks for your comments.
1) If one has never heard or read something, it must have never happened.
2) While I cannot speak for other people, I have never claimed to be a "knife professional"
3) No where in the video does it assert that carbon steel blades chip/ break easily
4) It was specifically stated in the video that knives should be used as intended so there is no reason that they break or get damaged
I'm not sure where this anger is coming from, but tone it down. This channel does not condone aggression or bullying.
Have a great day.
@@urbanknifeguyhe is angry because he is an American redneck
@@urbanknifeguyhe’s angry because your basic understanding of these two steels has been definitively proven false by Dr Larrin Thomas, who by the way, invented Magnacut.