Thank you for addressing the Ferro Rod issue. I've seen this myth perpetuated increasingly over the years and it has always annoyed me! Regarding the food prep question: My Father in-law and his best friend have taken a yearly canoe trip into the Norther Minnesota boundary waters every year for the last 50 years (in fact, they are on their yearly trip as I type this). My father in-law's best friend typically takes just a small axe, and a good filet knife for cutting tasks, and he swears by the filet knives' capability and versatility, especially for food prep.
That little C on the pivot is annoying ? Wow, guys, too much time in your hands - you need to buy more knives ! ( All meant in the spirit of fun, of course !).
Amen ... People just want to complain about nothing. I'd rather have the c on the pivot than all that stupid billboarding on the blade but you can't make some people happy I guess
Mora works great for food preparation though some are better than others. I don't want a folder I need to take apart and clean the insides for serious use. Using it on food is almost guaranteed to result in you needing to take it apart. Bleep that. Don't make work for yourself.
Store my knives in knockoff Pelican cases from Amazon. Way cheaper but essentially the same in build quality. I can fit about 50 knives per case, working on my fourth! 👍
I’ve never given a damn if my knives rust. I buy them to cut things, not to put in a museum. I know how to sharpen knives, so I like soft carbon steel that’s easy to sharpen.
I hear you. If you maintain your knives as you use them then I've found they don't have time to rust. I have a simple rule - stainless for folders & carbon for fixed blades. May not be for everyone but I've been a regular hiker, camper & gardener for over 25 years and it's served me well.
Was thinking this as well, could also do the Prometheus line as the Terrain knives are unobtanium at this point. Another idea might be the Sandrin tungsten blades like in the Recoil.
Been a fisherman my whole life and work in the trades where I cut heavy rigging at times. If your cutting heavy line fishing line 100lb+ mono all day or thick rope with your knife you will dull your edge very quickly. I'm OCD about keeping my edge insanely sharp. Like whatever knife i choose to have in my pocket gets stropped at the end of the day. So when I really need it to cut something it zips right through it. Get some knipex mini cutters for heavy fishing line. You have less of a chance of cutting yourself as well because you have to push pretty hard with a knife to cut through heavy line. In a pinch yeah it's fine to use your knife but it's good to have a dedicated line cutting tool.
I use my stainless garberg for bushcraft and I carry an opinel No. 8 for kitchen prep. I also take a Laplander camp saw and a council tool Hudson Bay 24” axe with me when bushcrafting.
Great presentation and advise as always. I have a beef with 1095 steel which has been around for a very long time (1800s) and was the cheap choice of many knife manufacturers over the years. So how come this basic cheap steel is touted as a premium steel on knives costing over $100. What magic ingredient has been added to justify the price hikes?
It's all marketing.. For example, Ka-Bar's steel, has nothing to do with 1095, actually it's a superior steel that in the USA, they used to call it Carbon V. However, Ka-Bar calls that steel 1095 Cro-Van, (even though it's just Carbon V) Why they do that? Well, somewhere in America, a wise guy once, said, I'll make knives with cheap 1095, and I'll advertise, that it is the BEST steel ever!!! He succeded and then, another guy in America, stole that marketing concept, and did the same! Then another, and then another. That's how, we ended up 1095 being the Super steel in the USA. Both ESEE and TOPS, have made a ton of money with that marketing trick. It's ok, people are dump and believe anything you sell to them, either Alliens, or cheap steel, they'll take anything the media says, because we are all programmed, to beleive anything the media says. That's how, we got to the point, where we live the last days, as they are described in the Apocalypse. That's how Devil, got humanity fooled.
I have been buying and using knives for over 50 years. I remember when 440c was the Premium steel and later AUS-8A. In contrast to 1095 these are now cheap affordable steels that give excellent all-round performance. But in marketing terms they are referred to as crap, you have to buy a $400+ CMP S110V knife. Though to me these "Super Steels' steels are great if your cutting rope all day sitting on the couch. But way too brittle for every day tasks such as camping, hunting and military use were being able to stand up to abuse is more important than edge retention.
@@billballbuster7186 You're 100% right sir. I'm not young either. I have used many supersteels but nothing beats my old ballbearing steel knives, neither I had any issue with my cheap knives. People have forgoten, that it's the geometry of the blade and the sharpness of it's edge that cut/slice, not the steel. People also forget that the handle design even the sheath itself, are more important, than the steel itself! It's all marketing, either if it's the 1095 the steel they advertise as "super steel" or the modern supersteels them'selves!
Mr. Andersen, thanks for all the Shot Show coverage! Also, Thomas, that close up with the Spyderco Lil Native...priceless. As for this KnifeAQ, I really like the idea of pairing a flat-ground, stainless folder with a fixed blade. My environment is extra hot and humid though, so the D2 of the Revo Ness isn't stainless enough. The Cold Steel Drop Point Large Voyager is a better bet for me. It's ALL curve, super slicey, and of course, tough as nails.
After filming, I actually can't believe I didn't mention the Ontario RAT-1 (flat ground and take your pick of AUS-8 stainless or D2). Man, a Mora paired with a RAT folder is a classic and affordable outdoors combo! -DCA
I'd much rather have the logo on the pivot than have a short novel written on the blade. I like a nice clean blade without branding and patent numbers splashed all over the blade.
Garberg carbon on the belt, Opinel stainless for the food prep. I know people who have the Opinel in the kitchen all the time as their go-to paring knife. Think I’ll get another one for myself come to think of it.
You're spot on. I've used a stainless Opinel solely for food prep while hiking/camping for the past 25 years with no problems. Light & easy to pack, easy to use & maintain and definitely slicey. I take other knives for other tasks.
I hate logos on the blade so I personally don't mind the c on the pivot. Not to mention the smoothness in opening and that oddly satisfying clang/ding when it opens. Love civivi for a cheap beater folding knife.
@@colemasse7177 🤣🤣🤣 yeah they were my first decent blade back when I was younger and they make some solid price efficient knives but I'm a grown up now so I'm buying the step up these days.
Just got the ka-bar Becker kephart for my outdoor knife and love it, also have a Spyderco para 3 with s45vn, cold steel folder (can't remember the make) and of course everyone has to own a mora of some sort. Few other cheaper knives for shits and giggles, and sold a civivi elementum to a buddy, loved it but sold it and put that money into the cold steel due to the elementum not being hard use.
I’ve always been interested in hidden gems, a product that doesn’t necessarily cost an arm or a leg but surprises you that no one else knows about it/it isn’t super popular. Are there any knives out there that you think are hidden gems? Would love to hear Seth’s thoughts as well. Keep up the great work!
The Mora Kansbol fits in the Garberg sheath, comes in stainless, and has a compound grind that does well on food prep. If paired with the Garberg you can wear the same sheath and just swap out the knife depending on where you’re going or what you’re doing.
@Decot C - The Revo folding Ness is, indeed a great knife. I say that even though the one I got from Knifecenter cut my fingertip off. I was lazy and let the edge go dull (the D2 is great, but I put it through a LOT of use) and when I was opening a simple cheese package, I had to apply more pressure than I would have had my knife been sharp. It slipped, and suddenly the tip of my left pointer finger was sitting on the bag of cheese I dropped on the floor. That happened Dec. 23rd, messed up my whole Christmas break, but I blame only myself. I know better than to let my knives get dull, and I was stupid. Regardless, the knife itself is GREAT.
Hey DCA, i'm about to start a plumbing apprenticeship and i want my edc to reflect my new carrer path. What would you recommend for a heavier duty knife that has some copper incorperated in it
But the stainless they are using is notably lower in carbon (14c28n), even if you count the nitrogen hardening. So the stainless Garberg is just a little bit softer and weaker than the 1095 class carbon Garberg. If you were comparing AUS10 to 1095, you'd probably get a little better edge holding but lower toughness for the stainless option.
Hey DCA, I'm looking for a knife under or around $200 with premium materials, quality craftsmanship and build, great action, with great ergos and cutting performance, any suggestions? 1 knife that meets these criteria is the protech malibu but still looking for alternatives. (P.S. FRN and G10 are not premium materials IMO) thanks!
Hello Mr Andersen, love to watch ur content ! Keep up the great work ! So my question... Im looking for a high end ots knife which kinda looks like an otf if u know what i mean. No classic folding knife looks. BUT the blade has to shorter then 8.5 cm.... I love german law..... Anyways thanks alot and i wish u all the best !
Hi DCA, please shed some light on the correct way to engage the AXIS/ABLE lock. Specifically, when you slide the lever back, are you supposed to pull on both sides of the handle simultaneously (with your thumb and index finger)? I’ve heard that pulling on only one side will shorten the lifespan of the spring mechanism. Is that fact or fiction?
Hey DCA, I'm in the market for a chef's knife. Could you go over the pros/cons and use theory of western style chef's knife vs a santoku? Suggestions for under $100 would be great too. Thanks for the great channel.
The Mora knives make great chefs knives. Get the stainless one for kitchen use. You can't beat them for $12-$20 and they hold a edge really well. Its worth a shot to try for the money.
He made this video a while ago about kitchen knives. The first couple of minutes gives good info on the difference between the two. th-cam.com/video/bpc3cPLQjdI/w-d-xo.html For the money it's really hard to beat Victorinox. You could buy their 8 inch chefs knife and their 7 inch Santoku for your $100 or less budget and have both options. Then look at upgrading to more expensive knives later on. That is what I did.
I have an 8" chef's knife from CKTG, Richmond's eponymous brand in BD1N. $80 a couple of years ago. Very nice knife. Old Hickory in carbon steel is about $20. Fill up the defects in the non full tang handle and oil it. (Boiled linseed.) If you're willing to take care of carbon steel, this is a great inexpensive one.
Those automatically generated subtitles periodically display "garbage" when DCA says "Garberg"! Mora must have upset TH-cam at some point in the past XD
Why aren’t Aitor from Spain’s multi tool pocket knives sold in the US? I am an avid SAK lover(giggity) and I think they look like a great alternative to the little red wonder.
OMG David answered my question! Fyi I did end up buying the gray Civivi Elementum about 3 weeks ago (after looking at it for nearly 2 years) and I'm unhappy with it. It grinds when opening and closing. I've taken it apart, cleaned the pivot area, reoiled it lightly with KPL knife oil, and its still not snapping open with ease and grinds I close it. I also own 6 other Civivi knives, including the fixed blade Elementum. My new folding Elementum is near the bottom in terms of my 100 fixed/folding blade in terms of performance/value.
"Is it just me, or is anyone else here just so tired of the Civivi logo yet? Like, just like, I'm just like so like over it, like ya know?" Are you serious, man? That's the question you had for David?
You've probably been asked about this but what is your favorite Fixed and Folding knife and what is your process for knife maintenance? And what oil do you use?
LC200n will hold an edge like nobody’s business. I can attest, my Spyderco Caribbean is pit through hell daily and will only need a strop about every 10 or so days.
Can you please get your hands on the Worksharp exclusive Benchmade Bugout? I have one on the way and I would love to see your opinion on it! I know it's a basic bugout but with the 20cv blade. I love your videos!
I own Moras in both stainless and carbon. Honestly, I can't tell a heck of a lot of difference as far as performance is concerned, but the stainless is a little easier to sharpen.
hi david, i have a quick question for you, i’m a big fan of the tomahawks in the movie “last of the mohicans”. i’d like to add one to my collection, do you know of any companies making tomahawks that have that older style look but still have modern functionality? thanks and keep up the great work
If more people spoke to actual knife makers who have a background in metallurgy and steel chemistry, they would understand stainless steel is also a "carbon steel" .
Hey there. I am looking for a present for a good friend of mine. He is not a hardcore knife guy, but realy likes dagger style knives (folding/ otf) can you recommend some good option under 100 euro?
Stainless doesn't hold the edge very well and it's almost impossible to make it razer sharp even then it doesn't last! A good O2(family) tool steel is a much better choice!
It's way more simple than that. For light to medium use, you choose a stainless steel blade, for hard use, you choose Low Alloy (Carbon steel). Then, there are other types of steels, like Tool steels for example, that are somewhere in the middle but closer to Low alloy, than Stainless. As for the hardness, which is something that mostly heattreatment, but steel itself is responsible for, it goes like this: The longer the blade, the softer the blade steel, the shorter the blade, he harder the steel. That of course, depends on many factors but in most cases, that's how things are.
is the yellow scale on the new native salt in magnacut the same darker yellow coloration as the native salt in LC200N or is the brighter yellow like the other salt series in H1?
Hey DCA, I know you get this a lot but thanks for the in-depth information on your knife faqs. There are other knife stores that pump out videos too but while somewhat entertaining they only skim the surface and never go next level.
All I want on the blade is the blade steel, the company logo can be somewhere else, I don't mind. As long as there is the maker and the steel type on the knife somewhere I like it. Don't know why people hate the company logo on the blade, I think it's pretty and I also like to see it wear.
to the shark guy, i hope for your sake that magnacut steel is better than H1, from my experience a wet tissue holds a better edge than H1, a melted block of butter holds a better edge than H1
An Opinel no. 10 would be a good companion for the Mora Garberg. It is a folder and It also has a very crisp 90 degree spine (best used in the closed position). Very slicey and very cheap. i have the no. 12 as my main outdoor knife (paired with an axe of course)
true...as long as you give the wood handle a little oil treatment once in a while. if you dont, it could be hard to open and/or close in case it gets wet after cleaning or during the food prep.
Quiet Carry Waypoint or Drift for the rust resistant folder with higher quality steel than LC200N. Vanax all the way baby! Haven’t tried MagnaCut yet though.
What is this reinventing history. Carbon steel is harder and holds edge longer but it brakes faster then stainless witch tends to bend not brake. Thats the basics.
This thing that it is important to understand about the difference between traditional flint and steel firestarting and modern ferrocerium firestarting is that with ferrocerium, it's the ferrocerium that is actually the sparking material, whereas with traditional flint and steel, it's actually the steel that is sparking. BIG DIFFERENCE. Those sparks with flint and carbon steel are the blade of your knife being ground into burning fragments. That's why most people who use traditional methods use a separate piece of metal to create the sparks, and not their prized cutlery. That also means you can optimise the type of steel for the sparking metal and the type of steel used for your knife. Now, as for food prep in the backcountry, it's much easier to just carry a small kitchen knife for food prep. Why not use a food knife for food?? I would never use a folding knife for food prep, because that is a recipe for filthy knife joints and food poisoning.
Oh, and incidentally, I still maintain that the ideal type of knife for general purpose backcountry use is essentially a thick chef's knife (German Kochmesser) pattern. Take a look at 17th and 18th Century trade knife patterns, and realise that voyageurs and explorers depended on such knives for their lives and livelihoods.
Hey DCA when are those new k320 models coming out. I have the original and really want a better one, it carries perfect but feels off. Handle is 2 light. In a perfect world the handle would be G10, but how is the aluminum¿? Still to light, or just right.
Thanks for all the great videos. Don't want to correct you since you know alot more about knives than me, but the Umnumzaan was the 1st CRK knife to use a ceramic ball interface, not the Inkosi.
Yes but the Inkosi was the first "Sebenza" with it, which is the knife the questioner was asking about. I could have been more clear in how I phrased it in the video. Cheers! -DCA
Recommending a folder to someone that asks about fixed blade knives is just unbelievable. Folders will never be as safe or durable as fixed. I have never understood the crave some people have for folders. I do have three folders, but they are made to last (a Strider, a Microtech SOCOM Elite and a Extrema Ratio Rao II). No more folders needed ever.
My issue with folding knives for food prep is 'cleaning'. When I'm out camping it is harder to keep a knife clean enough to allow using it for food prep the next day without risking anything. A bit paranoid? you bet!
I just wanted to write the same comment basically XD Why would you ever chose a folder over a fixed blade for food prep? You're gonna get all kinds of stuff into the blade handle...
@@ralphemerson497 Yes, very hot/boiling water would probably reduce the risk of 'contamination', but would add the risk of scalding myself or damaging the knife. Using an easily cleanable fixed blade reduces risks overall , ... there's that paranoia again 🤪
Hi DCA- My 7 year old son gifted me a Coast FX175 for Christmas. I love the design and it’s a great knife for the price. But the price is $12. I was hoping you could suggest something similar but in the 50-150 range.
Hey DCA I like EDC’ing a lightweight, thin, and very slicey folder like a Benchmade Bugout. What would be a fixed blade full tang equivalent? Thanks and keep up the great job! Hope your baby is letting you sleep through the night!
Hey DCA: I like the form factor of the Condor Primitive Bush Dagger, and I really like the crossdraw sheath it comes with. What are some other small fixed blade knives, preferably with similar sheaths, I should consider? I'd be interested in options with a more premium blade steel than the Condor, and other handle shapes.
How are the Covid-19 related “supply chain” issues affecting the knife industry? I want to buy a Sheffield Ministry of Defence British Army survival knife and the entire internet is out of stock.
Hi David (and Seth), My first question was answered brilliantly, so here I go again! Hope you can help me out with another one similar to my 1st question: I'm looking for a folding knife, with the following features: 1) Flipper (that becomes a "guard") 2) Axis or Similar Cross-Bar Lock (**MUST** be bank-vault, bomb-proof strong) 3) Thumb Hole, either oval or round, doesn't matter, but **MUST** have it... 4) About 3" or more Blade Length 5) Pointy, not Wharncliffe, but needs some belly. 6) Optional, but would be game-winning: Full Flat Grind, finger choil, assist or bearings in the pivot and Deep Carry Pocket Clip 7) See if you can recommend me a budget and a premium version each. Thanks so much!
Spyderco domino, mantra, and dice. Don't know if you can find anything like that with an axis, unless you're interested in a manix which lacks the flipper. Sog pentagon lacks the thumb hole. Pretty much every option will be like that
@@wake777 Thanks, The Domino was recommended as my previous request. I know I'm being pedantic, but the list is specifically designed and asked for that reason. The SOG Kiku would be perfect, were it not for the fact that I want a pointy-er blade. Will be eagerly awaiting the fullfillment of my list...
@@wake777 ...which also begs the question: Are there any custom or mid-tech Crossbar Lock knives out there? All we see from Custom Makers are Framelocks...
I got a big foldable nylon Velcro "knife vault", which fits nicely in a drawer, the other knives are usually on my body, or rest on my desk, drawers and different places around the house, and those others on my desk partially sit in micro fibre bags to save the ball-bearing ones from collecting dust. The Boker Knife Vault 2.0, great stuff for also transporting your knives, it has 18 clear view pockets and lotsa Velcro, so you can also put some patches inside. It also got some holes on the outer flab, so you can hang it on the wall if you travel. For purely at home I need some more storage capability though, lol.
Hey DCA, I'm getting married soon and my fiancée suggested a Viking theme wedding. I want to give my best man a nice knife and was thinking of maybe a nice seax. Are there any modern seax knives out there, preferably an edc-able folder?
![[UNCUT] “บอสณวัฒน์” ลากไส้!! ใครหนุนหลัง "แม่ตั๊ก ป๋าเบียร์" I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 30 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QlD7mU2KKRk/mqdefault.jpg)
If you want a Garberg but also want to use it for foodprep, there is a perfect knife for that called Mora Kansbol.
Agreed. I am amazed by what that knife can do.
The kansbol is sick ...some people might hate because it's not full tang but it's still a great knife
Actual outdoorsmen and hunters have been using high carbon blades for food prep for hundreds of years .
Love my mora, Kansbol
Opinel No. 8 is a really good food prep knife and can handle light cutting tasks. Thin slicy blade. Just get the stainless version.
Thank you for addressing the Ferro Rod issue. I've seen this myth perpetuated increasingly over the years and it has always annoyed me!
Regarding the food prep question: My Father in-law and his best friend have taken a yearly canoe trip into the Norther Minnesota boundary waters every year for the last 50 years (in fact, they are on their yearly trip as I type this). My father in-law's best friend typically takes just a small axe, and a good filet knife for cutting tasks, and he swears by the filet knives' capability and versatility, especially for food prep.
I can absolutely get behind the fillet knife for that context. -DCA
Again, the people who think you need a certain kind of knife metal for ferrorod have it confused with an old-fashioned flint and steel.
That little C on the pivot is annoying ? Wow, guys, too much time in your hands - you need to buy more knives ! ( All meant in the spirit of fun, of course !).
Amen ... People just want to complain about nothing. I'd rather have the c on the pivot than all that stupid billboarding on the blade but you can't make some people happy I guess
Mora works great for food preparation though some are better than others. I don't want a folder I need to take apart and clean the insides for serious use. Using it on food is almost guaranteed to result in you needing to take it apart. Bleep that. Don't make work for yourself.
Store my knives in knockoff Pelican cases from Amazon. Way cheaper but essentially the same in build quality. I can fit about 50 knives per case, working on my fourth! 👍
If u have a Harbor Freight store near by look at those cases, cheap & durable.
You get what you pay for. And where is that money going?
I’ve never given a damn if my knives rust. I buy them to cut things, not to put in a museum. I know how to sharpen knives, so I like soft carbon steel that’s easy to sharpen.
I hear you. If you maintain your knives as you use them then I've found they don't have time to rust. I have a simple rule - stainless for folders & carbon for fixed blades. May not be for everyone but I've been a regular hiker, camper & gardener for over 25 years and it's served me well.
RE: Salt water use, would Terrain 365's Invictus (Terravantium) be an good, albeit expensive, alternative?
Was thinking this as well, could also do the Prometheus line as the Terrain knives are unobtanium at this point. Another idea might be the Sandrin tungsten blades like in the Recoil.
Been a fisherman my whole life and work in the trades where I cut heavy rigging at times. If your cutting heavy line fishing line 100lb+ mono all day or thick rope with your knife you will dull your edge very quickly. I'm OCD about keeping my edge insanely sharp. Like whatever knife i choose to have in my pocket gets stropped at the end of the day. So when I really need it to cut something it zips right through it. Get some knipex mini cutters for heavy fishing line. You have less of a chance of cutting yourself as well because you have to push pretty hard with a knife to cut through heavy line. In a pinch yeah it's fine to use your knife but it's good to have a dedicated line cutting tool.
I use my stainless garberg for bushcraft and I carry an opinel No. 8 for kitchen prep. I also take a Laplander camp saw and a council tool Hudson Bay 24” axe with me when bushcrafting.
Great presentation and advise as always. I have a beef with 1095 steel which has been around for a very long time (1800s) and was the cheap choice of many knife manufacturers over the years. So how come this basic cheap steel is touted as a premium steel on knives costing over $100. What magic ingredient has been added to justify the price hikes?
It's all marketing.. For example, Ka-Bar's steel, has nothing to do with 1095, actually it's a superior steel that in the USA, they used to call it Carbon V. However, Ka-Bar calls that steel 1095 Cro-Van, (even though it's just Carbon V) Why they do that? Well, somewhere in America, a wise guy once, said, I'll make knives with cheap 1095, and I'll advertise, that it is the BEST steel ever!!! He succeded and then, another guy in America, stole that marketing concept, and did the same! Then another, and then another. That's how, we ended up 1095 being the Super steel in the USA. Both ESEE and TOPS, have made a ton of money with that marketing trick. It's ok, people are dump and believe anything you sell to them, either Alliens, or cheap steel, they'll take anything the media says, because we are all programmed, to beleive anything the media says. That's how, we got to the point, where we live the last days, as they are described in the Apocalypse. That's how Devil, got humanity fooled.
1095 is really lacking. You are right that no magic had been added to justify buying it over other better steels.
I have been buying and using knives for over 50 years. I remember when 440c was the Premium steel and later AUS-8A. In contrast to 1095 these are now cheap affordable steels that give excellent all-round performance. But in marketing terms they are referred to as crap, you have to buy a $400+ CMP S110V knife. Though to me these "Super Steels' steels are great if your cutting rope all day sitting on the couch. But way too brittle for every day tasks such as camping, hunting and military use were being able to stand up to abuse is more important than edge retention.
@@billballbuster7186 You're 100% right sir. I'm not young either. I have used many supersteels but nothing beats my old ballbearing steel knives, neither I had any issue with my cheap knives. People have forgoten, that it's the geometry of the blade and the sharpness of it's edge that cut/slice, not the steel. People also forget that the handle design even the sheath itself, are more important, than the steel itself! It's all marketing, either if it's the 1095 the steel they advertise as "super steel" or the modern supersteels them'selves!
Mr. Andersen, thanks for all the Shot Show coverage! Also, Thomas, that close up with the Spyderco Lil Native...priceless.
As for this KnifeAQ, I really like the idea of pairing a flat-ground, stainless folder with a fixed blade. My environment is extra hot and humid though, so the D2 of the Revo Ness isn't stainless enough. The Cold Steel Drop Point Large Voyager is a better bet for me. It's ALL curve, super slicey, and of course, tough as nails.
After filming, I actually can't believe I didn't mention the Ontario RAT-1 (flat ground and take your pick of AUS-8 stainless or D2). Man, a Mora paired with a RAT folder is a classic and affordable outdoors combo! -DCA
@@knifecenter Definitely an excellent way to go!
I don’t like folders for food prep simply for the lack of being able to clean/sterilize properly.
Nothing beats an Opinel for food prep!
I'd much rather have the logo on the pivot than have a short novel written on the blade. I like a nice clean blade without branding and patent numbers splashed all over the blade.
Yesssssssss
Garberg carbon on the belt, Opinel stainless for the food prep. I know people who have the Opinel in the kitchen all the time as their go-to paring knife. Think I’ll get another one for myself come to think of it.
You're spot on. I've used a stainless Opinel solely for food prep while hiking/camping for the past 25 years with no problems. Light & easy to pack, easy to use & maintain and definitely slicey. I take other knives for other tasks.
I hate logos on the blade so I personally don't mind the c on the pivot. Not to mention the smoothness in opening and that oddly satisfying clang/ding when it opens. Love civivi for a cheap beater folding knife.
lookin at you CRKT. those blades look like a sound cloud rappers face
@@colemasse7177 🤣🤣🤣 yeah they were my first decent blade back when I was younger and they make some solid price efficient knives but I'm a grown up now so I'm buying the step up these days.
Just got the ka-bar Becker kephart for my outdoor knife and love it, also have a Spyderco para 3 with s45vn, cold steel folder (can't remember the make) and of course everyone has to own a mora of some sort. Few other cheaper knives for shits and giggles, and sold a civivi elementum to a buddy, loved it but sold it and put that money into the cold steel due to the elementum not being hard use.
lol a salt native 5 in magnacut?
Im so glad i watched this faq
I’ve always been interested in hidden gems, a product that doesn’t necessarily cost an arm or a leg but surprises you that no one else knows about it/it isn’t super popular. Are there any knives out there that you think are hidden gems? Would love to hear Seth’s thoughts as well. Keep up the great work!
Here's a few: th-cam.com/video/5tcs_Ld_z9E/w-d-xo.html
Seth who?
Seth V, my occasional co-host. You can see him in the video I linked above -DCA
The Mora Kansbol fits in the Garberg sheath, comes in stainless, and has a compound grind that does well on food prep. If paired with the Garberg you can wear the same sheath and just swap out the knife depending on where you’re going or what you’re doing.
@Decot C - The Revo folding Ness is, indeed a great knife. I say that even though the one I got from Knifecenter cut my fingertip off. I was lazy and let the edge go dull (the D2 is great, but I put it through a LOT of use) and when I was opening a simple cheese package, I had to apply more pressure than I would have had my knife been sharp. It slipped, and suddenly the tip of my left pointer finger was sitting on the bag of cheese I dropped on the floor. That happened Dec. 23rd, messed up my whole Christmas break, but I blame only myself. I know better than to let my knives get dull, and I was stupid. Regardless, the knife itself is GREAT.
dude :O -DCA
DCA and Seth, what are some discontinued knives you think should come back? I think the crkt Carajas and the Kershaw skyline need to come back.
The first cooking folder you suggested, Revo Ness, I think, reminds me a lot of my Civivi Naja.
Hey DCA, i'm about to start a plumbing apprenticeship and i want my edc to reflect my new carrer path. What would you recommend for a heavier duty knife that has some copper incorperated in it
But the stainless they are using is notably lower in carbon (14c28n), even if you count the nitrogen hardening. So the stainless Garberg is just a little bit softer and weaker than the 1095 class carbon Garberg. If you were comparing AUS10 to 1095, you'd probably get a little better edge holding but lower toughness for the stainless option.
Hey DCA, any thoughts on the AD20.5? The shark lock looks interesting, but $150 for a D2 folder seems steep.
Hey DCA, I'm looking for a knife under or around $200 with premium materials, quality craftsmanship and build, great action, with great ergos and cutting performance, any suggestions? 1 knife that meets these criteria is the protech malibu but still looking for alternatives. (P.S. FRN and G10 are not premium materials IMO) thanks!
Obviously a mailbu is a great option, 940 is too
Hello Mr Andersen, love to watch ur content ! Keep up the great work ! So my question... Im looking for a high end ots knife which kinda looks like an otf if u know what i mean. No classic folding knife looks. BUT the blade has to shorter then 8.5 cm.... I love german law..... Anyways thanks alot and i wish u all the best !
MagnaCut is the steel I want to upgrade to on every knife design I love😳
The best food prep folder is Opinel no 9 , best slicer for 10 dollars
Hi DCA, please shed some light on the correct way to engage the AXIS/ABLE lock. Specifically, when you slide the lever back, are you supposed to pull on both sides of the handle simultaneously (with your thumb and index finger)? I’ve heard that pulling on only one side will shorten the lifespan of the spring mechanism. Is that fact or fiction?
Hey DCA, I'm in the market for a chef's knife. Could you go over the pros/cons and use theory of western style chef's knife vs a santoku? Suggestions for under $100 would be great too. Thanks for the great channel.
The Mora knives make great chefs knives. Get the stainless one for kitchen use. You can't beat them for $12-$20 and they hold a edge really well. Its worth a shot to try for the money.
@@dylanneal6363 The Moras that price are not kitchen knives. And their actual kitchen knife range is much more expensive than that. Terrible advice.
He made this video a while ago about kitchen knives. The first couple of minutes gives good info on the difference between the two.
th-cam.com/video/bpc3cPLQjdI/w-d-xo.html
For the money it's really hard to beat Victorinox. You could buy their 8 inch chefs knife and their 7 inch Santoku for your $100 or less budget and have both options. Then look at upgrading to more expensive knives later on. That is what I did.
Victorinox knives are great I used them through culinary school
I have an 8" chef's knife from CKTG, Richmond's eponymous brand in BD1N. $80 a couple of years ago. Very nice knife. Old Hickory in carbon steel is about $20. Fill up the defects in the non full tang handle and oil it. (Boiled linseed.) If you're willing to take care of carbon steel, this is a great inexpensive one.
Those automatically generated subtitles periodically display "garbage" when DCA says "Garberg"! Mora must have upset TH-cam at some point in the past XD
Why aren’t Aitor from Spain’s multi tool pocket knives sold in the US? I am an avid SAK lover(giggity) and I think they look like a great alternative to the little red wonder.
OMG David answered my question! Fyi I did end up buying the gray Civivi Elementum about 3 weeks ago (after looking at it for nearly 2 years) and I'm unhappy with it. It grinds when opening and closing. I've taken it apart, cleaned the pivot area, reoiled it lightly with KPL knife oil, and its still not snapping open with ease and grinds I close it. I also own 6 other Civivi knives, including the fixed blade Elementum. My new folding Elementum is near the bottom in terms of my 100 fixed/folding blade in terms of performance/value.
My Elementum is the same. Grinds and there is no way to fix it.
Looking to buy myself a special bushcraft fixed blade. Sparing no expense, what is your grail bushcraft fixed blade?
Can you talk about the German MERCADOR K-55 FOLDER , I always have one of these around since the 50's and find them handy.
"Is it just me, or is anyone else here just so tired of the Civivi logo yet? Like, just like, I'm just like so like over it, like ya know?"
Are you serious, man? That's the question you had for David?
perhaps the most ridiculous comparison, but the most fidget friendly utility knife? it’s got to be the Milwaukee Fastback
You've probably been asked about this but what is your favorite Fixed and Folding knife and what is your process for knife maintenance? And what oil do you use?
LC200n will hold an edge like nobody’s business. I can attest, my Spyderco Caribbean is pit through hell daily and will only need a strop about every 10 or so days.
Can you please get your hands on the Worksharp exclusive Benchmade Bugout? I have one on the way and I would love to see your opinion on it! I know it's a basic bugout but with the 20cv blade. I love your videos!
I love the Mora Pro C personally.
And the Eldris, which is 12C27 instead of Carbon.
My arthritis requires a paring knife with a knife-sized handle. The Mora 511 is working fine, better than the Pro-C did.
I own Moras in both stainless and carbon. Honestly, I can't tell a heck of a lot of difference as far as performance is concerned, but the stainless is a little easier to sharpen.
hi david, i have a quick question for you, i’m a big fan of the tomahawks in the movie “last of the mohicans”. i’d like to add one to my collection, do you know of any companies making tomahawks that have that older style look but still have modern functionality? thanks and keep up the great work
If more people spoke to actual knife makers who have a background in metallurgy and steel chemistry, they would understand stainless steel is also a "carbon steel" .
Hey there.
I am looking for a present for a good friend of mine. He is not a hardcore knife guy, but realy likes dagger style knives (folding/ otf) can you recommend some good option under 100 euro?
@KnifeCenter wHy NoT bOtH??
No seriously, K390 and M390 all the way baby.
Stainless doesn't hold the edge very well and it's almost impossible to make it razer sharp even then it doesn't last!
A good O2(family) tool steel is a much better choice!
A good, lower cost option as companion to the garberg is a kabar dozier. Au8 cost about $22.
DCA, I need a knife under $100 great steel preferably not a spyderco, was looking at the kershaw link
It's way more simple than that. For light to medium use, you choose a stainless steel blade, for hard use, you choose Low Alloy (Carbon steel). Then, there are other types of steels, like Tool steels for example, that are somewhere in the middle but closer to Low alloy, than Stainless.
As for the hardness, which is something that mostly heattreatment, but steel itself is responsible for, it goes like this: The longer the blade, the softer the blade steel, the shorter the blade, he harder the steel. That of course, depends on many factors but in most cases, that's how things are.
is the yellow scale on the new native salt in magnacut the same darker yellow coloration as the native salt in LC200N or is the brighter yellow like the other salt series in H1?
It's capsule Corp symbol from DBZ have the reason I have a civivi
After my spiderco in Rex 45 started to rust after using it twice, I will never buy carbon steel again.
Hey DCA, I know you get this a lot but thanks for the in-depth information on your knife faqs. There are other knife stores that pump out videos too but while somewhat entertaining they only skim the surface and never go next level.
All I want on the blade is the blade steel, the company logo can be somewhere else, I don't mind.
As long as there is the maker and the steel type on the knife somewhere I like it. Don't know why people hate the company logo on the blade, I think it's pretty and I also like to see it wear.
Hey, DCA! What knife would you recommend for the mall ninja in your life?
so is a flat ground knife technically just a super small scandi ground knife ?
What’s the story with the magazine feature in the background? What knife is that?
to the shark guy, i hope for your sake that magnacut steel is better than H1, from my experience a wet tissue holds a better edge than H1, a melted block of butter holds a better edge than H1
The civivi C in the pivot looks way better in person. It’s milled metal and is nice quality
Is there a Tek-Lok that would fit a Cold Steel Tokyo Spike? Thanks you guys are awesome
An Opinel no. 10 would be a good companion for the Mora Garberg. It is a folder and It also has a very crisp 90 degree spine (best used in the closed position). Very slicey and very cheap. i have the no. 12 as my main outdoor knife (paired with an axe of course)
true...as long as you give the wood handle a little oil treatment once in a while. if you dont, it could be hard to open and/or close in case it gets wet after cleaning or during the food prep.
I know this my sound odd but my choice as a field food prep knife is my QSP penguin
Good stainless versus high carbon steel explanation!
Quiet Carry Waypoint or Drift for the rust resistant folder with higher quality steel than LC200N. Vanax all the way baby! Haven’t tried MagnaCut yet though.
Vanax was my thought too...
Is the steel on the new puma white hunters good for a survival/ bushcraft knife?
MORA KANSBOL would be great for food prep.
I'll say I don't really care for the pivot on the bestec knives(kinda like like a kid hand ground it in)
If your carrying a dedicated knife for food prep, pack a kitchen knife....
I get wat u are saying about the Logos yet I have no problem with other methods. It's up to the knife co.
Im trying to find a kitchen knife set that wont rust after the first wash in my dishwasher. What brands do you recommend?
When will you get a restock on the Nordsmith knives? Been wanting to get my hands on the canteen model!
What is this reinventing history. Carbon steel is harder and holds edge longer but it brakes faster then stainless witch tends to bend not brake. Thats the basics.
When will the Nordsmith Canteen knife be available again?
Stainless mora will be dull much faster than carbon Mora.
Garberg + Old Hickory Butcher
This thing that it is important to understand about the difference between traditional flint and steel firestarting and modern ferrocerium firestarting is that with ferrocerium, it's the ferrocerium that is actually the sparking material, whereas with traditional flint and steel, it's actually the steel that is sparking. BIG DIFFERENCE. Those sparks with flint and carbon steel are the blade of your knife being ground into burning fragments. That's why most people who use traditional methods use a separate piece of metal to create the sparks, and not their prized cutlery. That also means you can optimise the type of steel for the sparking metal and the type of steel used for your knife.
Now, as for food prep in the backcountry, it's much easier to just carry a small kitchen knife for food prep. Why not use a food knife for food?? I would never use a folding knife for food prep, because that is a recipe for filthy knife joints and food poisoning.
Oh, and incidentally, I still maintain that the ideal type of knife for general purpose backcountry use is essentially a thick chef's knife (German Kochmesser) pattern. Take a look at 17th and 18th Century trade knife patterns, and realise that voyageurs and explorers depended on such knives for their lives and livelihoods.
Bingo!! Spot on!
When will you restock your rmj tomahawks?
Hey DCA when are those new k320 models coming out. I have the original and really want a better one, it carries perfect but feels off. Handle is 2 light. In a perfect world the handle would be G10, but how is the aluminum¿? Still to light, or just right.
Feels just right to me. I plan on getting one. We don't have a release ETA from Hogue yet -DCA
We can't say carbon steel will hold an edge longer or else we wouldn't be able to charge you an arm and a leg for the quote unquote super steels
Many super steels are also carbon steels -DCA
@@knifecenter YES, but that blunts the snarkiness of my comment ;-)
I see what you did there ;D -DCA
Thanks for all the great videos. Don't want to correct you since you know alot more about knives than me, but the Umnumzaan was the 1st CRK knife to use a ceramic ball interface, not the Inkosi.
Yes but the Inkosi was the first "Sebenza" with it, which is the knife the questioner was asking about. I could have been more clear in how I phrased it in the video. Cheers! -DCA
Recommending a folder to someone that asks about fixed blade knives is just unbelievable. Folders will never be as safe or durable as fixed. I have never understood the crave some people have for folders. I do have three folders, but they are made to last (a Strider, a Microtech SOCOM Elite and a Extrema Ratio Rao II). No more folders needed ever.
You should just use a tamp Instead of a pad
Hi, could you please recommend a fix blade for camping with a good blade shape for food preparation?
Thanks
Nader
There are some good options here: th-cam.com/video/784XkgTcdrI/w-d-xo.html
My issue with folding knives for food prep is 'cleaning'. When I'm out camping it is harder to keep a knife clean enough to allow using it for food prep the next day without risking anything. A bit paranoid? you bet!
I just wanted to write the same comment basically XD Why would you ever chose a folder over a fixed blade for food prep? You're gonna get all kinds of stuff into the blade handle...
After cleaning, drop in the knife in boiling water. Better than nothing.
@@ralphemerson497 Yes, very hot/boiling water would probably reduce the risk of 'contamination', but would add the risk of scalding myself or damaging the knife.
Using an easily cleanable fixed blade reduces risks overall
,
... there's that paranoia again 🤪
Very paranoid. You won’t catch anything from a knife lol
hi can You plz test LKW crusher xl ?
Saltwater knife: Quiet Carry drift/waypoint OR Spyderco Caribbean. IMO Quiet Carry Waypoint w/ the Vanax Super Clean
Nooo ! 😅 the best food prep folder is definitely opinel inox no 9 😉👍
DCA ... wheres the office location???? ... really missing that 'location'
Hi DCA- My 7 year old son gifted me a Coast FX175 for Christmas. I love the design and it’s a great knife for the price. But the price is $12. I was hoping you could suggest something similar but in the 50-150 range.
Hey DCA I like EDC’ing a lightweight, thin, and very slicey folder like a Benchmade Bugout. What would be a fixed blade full tang equivalent? Thanks and keep up the great job! Hope your baby is letting you sleep through the night!
What about Vanax and Quietcarry?
Hey DCA: I like the form factor of the Condor Primitive Bush Dagger, and I really like the crossdraw sheath it comes with. What are some other small fixed blade knives, preferably with similar sheaths, I should consider? I'd be interested in options with a more premium blade steel than the Condor, and other handle shapes.
How are the Covid-19 related “supply chain” issues affecting the knife industry? I want to buy a Sheffield Ministry of Defence British Army survival knife and the entire internet is out of stock.
Hi David (and Seth),
My first question was answered brilliantly, so here I go again! Hope you can help me out with another one similar to my 1st question:
I'm looking for a folding knife, with the following features:
1) Flipper (that becomes a "guard")
2) Axis or Similar Cross-Bar Lock (**MUST** be bank-vault, bomb-proof strong)
3) Thumb Hole, either oval or round, doesn't matter, but **MUST** have it...
4) About 3" or more Blade Length
5) Pointy, not Wharncliffe, but needs some belly.
6) Optional, but would be game-winning: Full Flat Grind, finger choil, assist or bearings in the pivot and Deep Carry Pocket Clip
7) See if you can recommend me a budget and a premium version each.
Thanks so much!
Spyderco domino, mantra, and dice. Don't know if you can find anything like that with an axis, unless you're interested in a manix which lacks the flipper. Sog pentagon lacks the thumb hole. Pretty much every option will be like that
@@wake777 Thanks, The Domino was recommended as my previous request. I know I'm being pedantic, but the list is specifically designed and asked for that reason. The SOG Kiku would be perfect, were it not for the fact that I want a pointy-er blade. Will be eagerly awaiting the fullfillment of my list...
@@wake777 ...which also begs the question: Are there any custom or mid-tech Crossbar Lock knives out there? All we see from Custom Makers are Framelocks...
@@ShidenByakko i dont personally know of any midtech crossbars out there, but id imagine some must exist out there.
Just use a flint & steel hit. Don’t waste knife spine on that.
I got a big foldable nylon Velcro "knife vault", which fits nicely in a drawer, the other knives are usually on my body, or rest on my desk, drawers and different places around the house, and those others on my desk partially sit in micro fibre bags to save the ball-bearing ones from collecting dust.
The Boker Knife Vault 2.0, great stuff for also transporting your knives, it has 18 clear view pockets and lotsa Velcro, so you can also put some patches inside. It also got some holes on the outer flab, so you can hang it on the wall if you travel.
For purely at home I need some more storage capability though, lol.
Hey DCA, I'm getting married soon and my fiancée suggested a Viking theme wedding. I want to give my best man a nice knife and was thinking of maybe a nice seax. Are there any modern seax knives out there, preferably an edc-able folder?