Shelterlogic 12x12 Adding More Support
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 พ.ย. 2017
- The Shelter logic Shed in a Box is a great way to keep lawnmowers and ATV's out of the weather. In my area there is often up to a foot of snow. In this video I add some PVC pipe to the shed to give some extra support. I also add a clamp to the door to keep it open easier.
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Regarding the door, consider rolling it up in the opposite direction, from inside the shed. The bungie should be easier to attach, and rain will shed off, rather than gather within the roll. Plus you won't have to stand outside and get wet if it's raining.
i suggest adding a short piece of 3/4" pipe, say 3" out of the TEE on the cross bar and then a 45* fitting then the long run of 3/4" to the ridge . that should mimic the curve of the original steel bars. also turn the door bungee around so the loop is inside and the ball is outside and hang the spring clamp on the loop inside to keep it out of the weather and to keep it handy when you roll up the door. if the clamp is from harbor freight it won't last very long in the sun. love your videos. great content.
Great suggestion! I have installed the first 4 pipes with your idea. (Vlog 55 I think.) After the 7" snow we just got things are looking nice. No issues.
The rolling up issue, yesssss! Omg I never thought of adding a pipe to the bottom. Brilliant!
That has been a lifesaver. The pipe is still there years later and works well.
TRY REVERSING THE BUNGEE CORD TO HAVE THE BALL ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE UNIT,THIS WAY AFTER ROLLING UP THE FRONT YOU JUST HAVE TO REACH INSIDE FOR THE CORD AND HOOK IT UP TO THE OUTSIDE.
The work out is doing great for ya! Keep on keeping on! I like the zip up shelter.
I am trying to beat Matt from Demo Ranch at Benchpress of 315 pounds. 285 pounds went up then I gave 290 a try and almost got it. Might be a while yet.
Nicely done! I like that idea with the pvc...
Brilliant! In the process of doing something similar with a new tarp cover, and this is a great idea to reinforce for (light) snow load. One might even use pvc 3/4 threaded to 1.5 or 2" adapters to up the cross beam support to use 1.5" or 2" pvc for significantly increased rigidity.
This worked ok for the first winter. The heat of summer caused the pvc to fall. I think that I am going to try the ratchet strap idea this winter. Buy some cheap straps and lightly cinch them down to make a support. We shall see.
My door solution was similar. I used a long wooden dowel rod 1” thick and screwed it through shelter door. For the holdups I used some single stranded wired taken from 14/2 cable and made two loops one on each end so when I rolled up the door I just moved the door left and right and hooked on the wire loops. No need for clamps. Worked very well.
I’m guessing the PVC makes the door flap less in the wind when it’s down?
Great friggin idea man for real. I think I'm going to do the same for my new shed in a box. 10x15x8
That is a great idea Seth! Nice work!
Thank you. We just got a 7" snow and the shed held up just fine. video on the way.
Thank You for the informative and educational video. I am about to build a 12 x 20 fabric shed myself and had the same idea to add extra support to the walls and roof. I was going to use steel pipe, but I believe your idea of pvc pipe would be a good alternative. And, it would cost less. Keep up the good videos and Have A Good Day Sir! 🏡🛻🚤
For anyone looking for the Tee connector to use it's called a "saddle tee" if you are searching the interweb
THANK YOU!
Hero
That's an awesome idea! I have a 12x20 shelterlogic an going to do the same thing
It worked ok in the winter. But in the summer it heated up enough to fall out.
I suggest buy the silver colored tarps at the best price you can find and place them over this structure. That will protect the original cover from UV rays which is what ruins them. You can swap those silver tarps as needed. Even good ones should only cost $25 for a 12x16 foot, $14 for a 10x12.
I got that idea when the cover on mine fell apart. I already had a frame so I measured and bought the tarps I would need to cover it.
The following is if your cover is shot and the metal frame is still good. The tarps, ropes, and bungees I bought only cost $110 at a farm implement store and will last at least three years. The cover would have cost about $350 and might only be good for one year.
Start with the back, tie rope into the eyelets and use that rope to pull the tarp up and over the frame then use that rope to tie it off to the metal frame work. Make sure the upper part of the back comes over the roof at least one foot. Tie the sides of the back tarp to the frame as well. Now put the side pieces on, make sure the sides reach up at least one foot above the eave and tie them off to the frame. I tied ropes to the tarp and used those to pull the tarp up into place. All these ropes will be on the inside after you put the roof on. I used a retractable razor tool to cut the ropes. Safe way to keep a good cutting edge handy.
Now you can put on the roof, making certain it over hangs the back and the side tarp. Anchor it to the ground with rope. If yours is on cement I'm not sure if you are willing to drill holes to install anchors. But it HAS to be anchored. If you use weights it might become a kite, land in your neighbors yard and leave your "stuff" exposed to rain or snow.
If you or someone you know has sewing skills, reuse the factory zipper from the door and sew it into the replacement tarp. If not, tie ropes in the top eyelets, pull the door tarp over the top of the roof and anchor along the sides with rope at about 45 degrees so it can't slide down. Anchor the bottom and sides. You will have to unfasten it to open so I put hooks on the ropes so I could simply unhook and roll up the tarp. The clamps he used are a great idea. I also used heavy duty bungee cords to help snug those tarps. Every time the wind blows the tarps will wiggle and the bungees will help take up any slack in the tarps. After a few days snug the ropes but not too tight so as to cause excess tension on the tarps where they bend over the metal. My shelter is now snug and secure and at 1/3 the price of a new cover.
Our shelter logic has lasted over ten years up here in interior Alaska. The biggest problem is snow load and we consistently remove snowpack using a push broom from the inside. We don't get much wind here in interior Alaska. Condensation is another problem so we keep the door open to help minimize condensation and icing of the inner walls.
The sun seems to be the main issues with mine. Got 3 years out of it before it crumbled.
Very creative! Looks great, thanks for sharing!
Thank you.
Land to House In case the tarp ripped over time, can I buy just the tarp with the same size?
ShelterLogic Group In case the tarp ripped over time, can I buy just the tarp with the same size?
Yes. They are costly though.
Land to House Oh ok, I was thinking it would be cheaper because I already have the frame lol. Thanks guys!
Simply cutting the pvc cross piece longer than needed, should impart an upward bow when locked in place, adding strength and helping to shed snow more easily.
This is actually a really great idea! I thought that was where he was going with it when he mentioned he was going to cut it a little longer (the amount he said was way to small to make a difference, I just wasn't listening to the details the 1st go-round) then when he said it was going to be tricky to install I just assumed it was going to be because of the added tention but then it popped in, no problem and I thought well, maybe he's got something else in mind. Lol
I like the PVC add on and I bought lattice and screwed walls to mine left a...door way I also added metal sheets on the roof and a roof v to keep water out I call it a v it's metal across the top..!.. I love mine.. I wanted to add metal sheet walls but lattice is good for now! A carport I bought 10x 20..I used half of it saved the other pipes ...
Thanks for the video. Going to get one and looking fot tips.
If your bungi cords were put in with the ball on the out side, I think it would be easier to use them.
Ive seen people heat the pvc with a propane torch and the bend it. You could have mimicked the exact curve if you were crafty. Unfortubately it doesn't seem like that would hold up at all the way it was installed. I hope it worked out for you!
I added extra pipes using emt conduit and bent them to match existing frames
What did you use to connect them with? Thanks
@@P8triotrn07 I used u bolts readily available at Home Depot. I slipped short lengths of clear tubing over the bolts that went up against the fabric to minimize any chafing.
@@Mikego55
Good idea. It looks like you have schedule 40 pipe, which is typically what you get at the big box store. You can also get schedule 80, much thicker walls, but the same OD. It's something I'd look for at a liquidation place or on Craigslist.
We just got a 7" snow and the shed held up well! There was a lot of pressure on the pvc but no signs of failure.
Nice! Have fun in the snow. I was outside in a t-shirt yesterday here in Oregon. It's uusally cold and wet. Crazy weather.
That is wild. Same here. It was 65 last week and Emma and I """did not go for a 30min ATV ride""" and then today its 26 and snowing.
You can very easily make a roll up set up for your door with a rope and 3 pulleys.
I never thought of the PVC fixit, I wasn't sure it was strong enough. Those T things are expensive. I suspect a guy could just cut a notch in the pipe that would straddle the metal frame. Warm it with a hair dryer and curve it to match the metal before cutting it to reach the peak. Add maybe a half inch in length so it will bow upward slightly? Place it at kitty corner at an angle to get it started on the metal then slide it till it is centered in the open spot.
I just used some thick heavy duty rope on mine and will wait to see how that handles snow load before spending the money on PVC.
This may have already been suggested but what about adding them between the supports in the horizontal direction. We just put up a 10 x 15 we are using tie down straps in both directions (we got a deal on 16 pack of 12' straps on Amazon) the hope is that it helps the roof stay taut enough to allow run off/prevent build up, we will see when snow flies.
I wonder if you could stiffen the pvc pipe by shooting it full of that foam that hardens?
I don't know if it can harden properly inside where it can't get air.
I sugguest going across the the supports from front to back and instead use metal steel piping
The door bungee cords are in backwards. If you leave the ball part outside you can roll up the door and then loop the cord over the ball.
I am replacing my Shelterlogic horse shelter roof. In the Pacific Northwest we have a crazy amount of rain. The result has been droop on the roof.Covering it with tarps has resulted in puddles of standing water. While I have it off the cattle panels I want to add extra supports. I had thought of stringing bungy cords but this looks better. I would love to know how well this worked.
Where did you find the PVC supplies??
I was thinking of buying the 8' x 8' x 7' version and just laying some 1/4" plywood on the roof , along both sides and across the back ...... 4 sheets would do the trick ....... a couple of Screws , wire or even duct tape should hold them in place .
I'm gonna do this PVC thing except I'm putting it from left to right in the back. because for some reason that back tarp always is so flappy coming into shed and out. also it would add support wouldn't it? maybe even put one in the front also
The back flap is rather noisy. Extra pvc on the back might help that.
I noticed on your pvc pipe you added an extra pvc tube for hight but I can't find that video please help
Exactly what I was looking for! A simple and inexpensive way to beef-up a Shelterlogic. Would that PVC pipes work on the more round roof model too ?
Did you figure something out? I just ordered the round top model.
@@tomaskey6844 Decided to buy the Navigloo Shelter instead. This whole setup was for my boat. It gotta spend winter outside at my cottage since its place been taken by something else in the garage.
In case you're wondering, that Navigloo works pretty good actually. It will be the 2nd winter and it stood strong last winter. The steepness of the shelter is ideal since no snow can accumulate on this thing. The tarp is high quality too. It's a bit of a PITA to put together but it does the job well. Totally worth it!
Ever find out the name of that pvc part???
I did the same thing but used wood back into those clamps.
Good Idea but plastic clamps will break for sure in cold climates.
Are the ratchets for the roof and sides supposed to show on outside of the shed? Directions show it that way. My concern is won't they get rusty and wet and not work if you need ti to ratchet them? The weather like snow would sit on them. Is there something to spray on them..
Spray with WD-40. It repels water. Or use a brush with trailer wheel bearing grease LOL
Feel the end of the pipe for about 2 ft with sand and then take your torch to it and heat it up and then bend it to the shape you need let it cool and then drop the sand out of it
try reversing the ball bungie, and ziptie a washer on the inside to ensure it stays put.
Using a clamp on the bungie from the inside has worked well! So far no signs that it is going to fall out.
Well I had a simolar ideausing one b twos and some metal believe conduit type hooks drilled into the 1x2's as mine is a 10' by 10' n I ordered A 6'X 8' NICE THAT ITS A LITTLE BIGGER BUT ACTUally too big for my needs. < Im worried about snow load as well as there is no support for cross beams on the bottom either. mine isnt a shelter logic either same thing structure wise w metal pipe. I only needed to cover a lawn tractor over the winter,
You should try to get Schedule 40 PVC pipe and fittings which will last way longer. Schedule 40 is much thicker and stronger pvc pipe
I bought one of these also but it didn't come with poles for the bottom door end unless I buy them separately
I just got a pvc pipe for the bottom of the door.
Mine keeps flapping open and the rain gets in part of it and theres a few openings but afraid to unhook it cause already had a hard time getting it on
If u don't mind me asking but was wondering where I can get a few pvc pipes?
You should go from frount to back
Slip up some 1x4 up in there solved and put them in the long way
Saddle-tap or saddle-tee
I think that kind of tee fitting is called a saddle tee.
Good idea on how to add support to a shed like that. The Shelterlogic sheds are nice but I too have wondered how well they hold up to a snow load. The added support should help ensure the shed will hold up even if you get a lot of snow overnight or something.
I thought of an idea to beef up the PVC supports. Connect the PVC pipes together with more pipe, some tees, and maybe some elbows. Kind of like how the bottom chord works on a roof truss. I think that this should strengthen the supports and take out the flex.
We just got 7" of snow and the shed held up great. The pvc had a lot of pressure on it but there was no damage.
I would have made the pipe a little bit longer, and screw (or glue), the snap part to the pole with a slight angle to the pipe bend upward and push the fabric up and put tension onto it.
I was thinking of doing the same thing but I would run the PVC end to end(horizontal) instead of top to side(vertical).
I think an added bonus to your way is that the PVC pipe would be shorter lengths and thus stiffer and less likely to sag under a snow load.
What size pipe did you use for the bottom of the door
I used 1". Has done really well.
Land to House Thank you
To me the thin pvc pipe doesn't look like it would provide that much extra support for snow. My solution: I tie strapped 1" x 2" x 8' wood strips length wise on top of the metal trusses in 5 rows on each side roof panel. I also cut 4' pieces of 2"x 6" with the ends cut at the angle of the roof for each truss to support them in the middle. I put a 2"x4"x8' vertical support under each one. I live in a snow belt and we can get a lot of snow! When 100's of other peoples garages crumpled , ours still stands and looks great. I can actually grab a metal truss a couple feet off from center and hang my 220 lbs off it. The wood strips haven't worn on or into the tarp roof material either. With my mods, my shed took 18 - 20 inches of snow.
Your 1 x 2 strips did not wear the material at the ends? I am about to put one of these up and definitely need the extra support where I live. I like your idea but I'm worried about wear on the material.
after a couple years, the wood strips have not worn the fabric
I don't understand, but would like to do the same. Can you provide a scetch?
Can you draw or take a pic of your idea? Thanks
@@sharonbell5282 i could take a pic of it because i need to go to the lake where my portable garage is. That is a big reason i needed to strengthen it. I can't be there constantly to remove the snow.
Where did u get the snap pieces
Lowes and my local hardware store both have these.
What diameter pipe for rolling up door?
I think it was 1". Its has been so long. You can use 3/4" for sure.
run the supporting PVC between the rafters rather than creating new rafters
Make bungee longer adding one more or clamp on each end.
i bought the bigger one #62693. this thing is a peice of crap. i bought this last april 30th 2018 and it had holes in the roof 6 months later. today i went out the roof had torn in half down the length of the tent and left all my crap out for the neighbors to gawk at. the frame seems built well, and i anchored down solid but the tarp is the worst. now that i am taking it down the top that was in the sun was brittle, crumbling in my hands and falls apart worse than wet paper. it also tears more easily than a sheet of the thinnest paper known to man. piss on this thing
Just some food for thought. PVC pipes can be bent by heating them. Create a jig to give the pipes some curvature to follow roofline with a slight bow in them to support snow loads.
The material starts to get brittle and tears easy after a few years. Very disappointing with shelter logic.
Yes I think that I am going on 3 years and it is starting to get brittle. This fall I am going to build a real shed so I can take this one down.
You could have cable tied 2x2 wood beams longitudinal between your existing beams with 5% of your effort and 5% of cost.(Creating a grid.)
This worked for a season. I am almost done with a 14x20 shed for this equipment to stay in. The Shelterlogic lasted for around 2.5 years.
Hahaha what good is that pvc doing?!? It's so flimsy
I like what one guy is doing. He used ratchet straps to make tight supports between the metal rafters.
If you would have covered the original top tarp with a cheaper tarp every year it would still be going strong. It's UV that destroys these tarps and if you keep the sun off of them with the second tarp they last for years and years. And yes you should have run the PVC pipe front to back not side to side.
These shelters are an absolute junk. I own an outdoor RV Storage and several clients bought those to cover their boats or pop up trailers, after first winter they all sustained damage and some got destroyed completely, I'd post photos if I could.
It lasted for a couple of years. Finally just fell apart. Now I have a real shed for the ATV. This canvas type of shed has a good temporary purpose but is certainly not long term
Shelter logic is huge piece of shit. Harbor freight tents last twice as long minimum. Source is New England winters and I’ve bought both and have set up many with friends.
I’ve contacted shelter logic and was told I’m on par with life of tent and they are designed for one year. Save the money go harbor freight.