UV will break down regardless of color. White may reflect more but if there are not uv inhibitors added to it, it still won't last that long. some plastics use carbon black to block UV. There are agricultural fabrics that are designed to last years in full sun, and many of those are black
I like the cheaper and perhaps more UV resistant covers, and also perhaps UV resistant coatings, painted or sprayed on, but the wood end is not portable, which I would need on rented land or as a guest, or on land I intend to sell. So for me a major point of these things is portability. I want it to fit in the bed of a fullsize pickup and the wooden end would not do that.
Good idea!! What I did with my cheap tarp shelter- I used corrugated metal installed horizontally, and now it’s solid like a rock, and no more constant work and spending.
I've had a portable garage for almost 20 years. I went through tarps every 9 months because of the hot summers in California. I even placed a second cover over the original. UV and winds would wreck havoc. Company stopped making replacement covers. Bought a custom-made heavy vinyl cover that are used for trucking and it's held up for almost 10 years. I still use a second cover to help reduce UV degradation. I had to replace one end with plywood. I am finally going to have to replace the other end after this winter.
I inherited the frame for one. Welded some tabs on. Screwed 1x4 to the tabs and steel roofing panels to that. It was the only building on the property the thieves couldn't get into.
I just ordered one and I'm thinking about welding the thing together and then screwing roofing tin to the inside to stiffen it up and then putting the tarp on the outside like normal. I'm going to lift the whole thing off the ground and put a platform on the back 10 ft and leave the front half dirt to park a tractor.
Excellent solutions. The cheap extra tarp cover prevents UV deterioration of the expensive original cover. The primary source of cracking at the roof bends is flapping caused by wind (initiated by cover weakness from UV exposure). Your fender washer solution secures the perimeter of the original cover and the extra tarp cover and reduces wind flow and pressure differentials under and over the large, unsecured area of the cover and tarp which results in movement, stretching, chafing, and flapping, but does not eliminate them. The design problem is that penetrations in the cover which would better secure it to the frame would cause leaks and tears, so the manufacturer eliminates them. A Midwestern greenhouse grower has an excellent solution which is proven by the yurts and tents of nomadic herdsmen. The greenhouse grower and nomads pass ropes across large areas of covers, thereby securing all parts of their expanse without penetrations. It works for Nomads in extreme winds and in extreme climates. Synthetic ropes also have a UV problem. UV-resistant ropes are available for long-term exterior exposure. Adding ropes anchored at the ground and passed across the top of your hangar will reduce damage from inevitable movement and flapping in winds to almost nil.
I had the same issue, after 3 tarps split, I put a foundation dimpled membrane, you can get them in 10' widths. I got the 8' width and put 3 pieces that overlap. Anchored them at the bottom. So far so good.
I have to deal with this issue many times. The cheapest tents never last very long. I have changed several for friends. The full front door is a good idea, and I would suggest a wall without sheeting for the rear, to prevent movement, which can loosen stakes in ground. I have also poured footings to anchor with bolts to ground. The best solution is to find some recycled roofing sheets, and cover entire frame with metal. I made another shed into an insulated shed with clear sections along lower horizontal area for natural lighting, and a floating floor made from pallets and OSB on top. 🇨🇦👍
You want to upgrade that floor. Its a rodent palace. I like to put pavers on an inch of sand on the ground and i guess if you needed you could put vapor barrier down under the sand.
We have had ours for twelve years now. Went through two covers that lasted about four years each, but we will be putting pole barn steel over the frame this last time. That will likely last 50 years, and the cost is less than $500.00 with the steel from the Amish. We were going to cover both ends, but we just built a large building, and decided we didn't need 100% dry space, so we're going to leave the ends open.
How's she goin'? I like the cover you put on the Shelter Logic. I have done similar to an old temporary shelter I had. It sure makes a difference eh. The UV will rot tarps pretty quick, but it's a lot cheaper to replace the tarp than to replace the original top. I really like the door you added to the front. That is awesome and I bet it makes the whole shelter a lot more solid. My shelter will wobble from side to side, but with a front like yours, that movement would be gone totally. Nice mod and I think you're right, this will last 20 years now!! Take 'er easy!!
Hi Sir, we had the same problem with Shelter Logic. The first shelter collapsed with two inches of snow on it. We bought a different shelter that has a white tarp fabric on it. I reinforced the corners with aluminium tape for ducting furnace and HVAC and such. Not duct tape, the wide sticky aluminum tape. That prevents chaffing and cracking of the tarp on the corners. It was a bit expensive, but worth it. Also, I applied some UV protection on the tarp.
Great idea. I put a plywood front on my LogicShelter three years ago and it's held up fine. I also put a $40 tarp over my second canvas this year. I built up the sides three feet with 1x6 pine and secure the tarp with 1x3 along the top of the pine sides. Your screws through the pipe is better than what I did. I secured the 2x4s with two drilled holes then twisted wire from there to secure the wood to the pipe. You have a great set-up. Looks very secure. Great doors on that thing.
Nice work... pretty dangg schmart. I always had the rings rip out and made the tarp more and more useless, so had to get 1/2" tubing for along the entire sides, zip tie the rings to the tubing and secure the tubing down in a couple places. this way the the pulling force was distributed more so to the entire sides, rather than one ring here and there which would rip. I also use Titebond III glue, add water to it and use that as a waterproofing seal on plywood or OSB, especially along the ends that contact the ground area. Works great in sun and rain. Dries fast
@@schretien8714 Titebond III glue with water.... to thin out the glue. Roll it on. Ive done that with a lot of plywood that goes in direct sunlight and heavy rain. I learned that from a boat builder to prepare for rain.
@wavehaven1 whoops, I forgot to ask a dumb question...lol...could the same be done to pressure treated wood? (Even though it's pressure treated, the wood still does not last long!!)
@@schretien8714 Yes, The main areas to seal up are the ends ( end grain) where water soaks in the most on lumber and the sides of plywood so the wood doesn't de-laminate. Some Ranchers just use motor oil thinned with diesel as a wood preservative.
Neighbor put cheap corrogated panels on a couple of the cheap Harbor Freight tent-garage frames, about 20 years ago and set T Post in concrete each corner to hold them down. They are still standing... That's far cheaper than constantly replacing the fabric.
Good job.. the Gray ones have a 1 year warranty and the brown covers have a 2-year warranty.. my brown one lasted about 3 years with the 13 x 20 barn style in Winnipeg.. my first one disintegrated in winter.. I think what you have to do is loosen It off a bit once it has shrunken a bit from the Sun.. good job on the end wall.. a little splash of paint and that should hold up for a while
Update. Flex seal paint still making my shelter cover last as long as it's applied before the cover starts to rip. Better to apply it when kinda new. Luckely a replacement on Amazon is still around 300 but I'm holding off.
Good job. I’m looking to do the same thing to keep my small trailer and some of my items covered and protected from the elements without spending a lot of money.
I had a similar experience with the canvas on my unit. I used pool noodles on the ridge poles, then a tarp before I installed the new canvas. I also have solid walls on both ends for security. I got three years of use in standard form, and seven years since my improvements. Best of luck to you.
Your solutions look good as well. I had to put the old tarp over the new one to block sun and wind damage; it lasted and lasted... until high winds blew tree limbs onto it; a metal roof would've been damaged too though. Thanks for the fantastic tip.
IF you are dead-set on continuing tarps or fabric... I have the VERY BEST solution of my lifetime for you... Search greenhouse supplies for a product called "wiggle wire" ... It is an aluminum channel and a wavy wire that goes with it. You attach the channel and lay the fabric across the channel. Then pull the fabric tight and install the "wiggle wire" to lock it into the channel... BY FAR the very best way of attaching fabric to pipe/plywood etc... Never tears our, never lets go. I have used it in so many applications (boat covers, tarp sheds, load covers on trailers etc.) works so very well. BUT, like others have said... throwing some framing to span the pipe (my preferred is METAL FRAMING STUDS) and then cover with metal roofing panels is the permanent solution.
Good idea I’ll have to do that to mine I don’t have any issues with mine at the moment, but at least I know that extra tarp will protect it from damage
Had same problem. Second material started to rip at same tight areas. Fix the top by rolling on rubberized white roof coating! And those tight stretch areas I put window screen material and rolled more coating over it 3 to 4 times! This worked!,, only problem is the sides and ends where I didn’t coat it has given out. No matter, I do plan on metal sheeting the whole thing soon . The frame is the only good thing about this product. And works well for turning it into a pre framed structure. Rubber roof coating is the cure . It works!
I've been thru a few of these. I always reinforce my unti with xtra heavy duty tarps. I still only get about 5 years at the most, a good storm took one out after only a year because I forgot to close the door.....Best I did was take 2) 17' Harbor freight frames and bolt them together then cover with 6 mil 4 year Greenhouse Film using wiggle wire ch.. That is on year 4 now and was a great greenhouse.
I love your videos and thank you for posting them. Honestly, I love any advice about these shelterlogic tents because I got mine used a few years ago and have been parking my vintage car in it to keep sun and dust off it. I finally gave in a few years ago and actually applied wood to the roof however a year later the wood is warped and it looks like heck. I also priced the metal and no way. The wood holds the snow in Canadian winter, which is enough. Maybe I'll get inspired and shingle it over lol! I loved your design for the front door I was even planning something just like this myself great minds think alike! My right zipper is shot so looking for solutions found your videos. Thanks a bunch! Liked and subscribed!! As for those comments just delete em. Mostly spoiled rich Americans who have no clue what life costs in Canada!😅
For the money spent on tarps I think I would’ve put it towards barn steel and steel the whole structure. It would last forever and add considerable strength
@@richie9214 I was thinking painted barn steel and just run the ribs the long way so it can follow the curvature of the steel structure. Butel tape the overlap ends.
Some cities have zoning about permanent structure so , keeping a tarp on it that is removable keep the nosy neighbors from rating you out. edit: true he might be better getting a construction permit and making this a pmt structure.
@@lepotdefleur9906 It's still considered temporary if it is not fastened to the ground or to any foundation. As long as it can be moved easily, considered temporary.
What I did to make mine last longer living in central Florida was to paint mine with silicone white roof coating, so far 2 summers, looking good. I will apply a second coat before summer, give that a try.
The best tarps I've found so far are the green "industrial" (not the typical cheap tarps) frim Menard's. I've had one on a jeep for 4 or 5 years now and it's still fine. Nothing else holds up that long The billboard vinyl and the old Menards grey "industrial" are good too but don't last as long and get pinholes when it's cold out.
I did the same thing with mine, only I have a matching grey tarp. My unit is is shaded most of the time. I had no cracking like you, but it did have a few small leaks. It is working well!
I have a big pc of rubber roofing salvaged of course, i noticed some water drops last week on my lumber shed, think im goin to pull it over the top & secure it like you did.
I have the round top 12 x 24 shelterlogic and same problem, brand new and lasted 9 months on first tarp, shelterlogic sent a new one they offered the same upgrade choices for the same price as they did you, What I did I added a white 16mil thick tarp over the old one, then pulled the new one they sent up over the white tarp, took all the bottom bars off and folded the old tarp up so i could connect the new tarp and tightened it all down, its tight and 3 layers thick, will see how long it last.
I have similar brand for a motorcycle. Has done the same thing. I learned you can't cinch them down too tight or they tear right on the corners. I also cut into squares a piece of the off cut that was included and used them as softeners on the corner tubes. It has helped.
This is my first comment on any video, ever. Great video. So simple and an easy fix. I’ve replaced my cover with multiple tarps over the 8 years i’ve had my shelter logic and always had to replace them in the worst weather so I didn’t put much thought into it and the tarp would usually last a year. Love the front door. Great video
Thanks Sparky. Great video. EXACT same here with our SL 12X20X8(quanset style). Saw a tear starting. 24 hours later it was "Spaghetti incident". Replaced it(another story) and it's failed(brown(more durable??)this time). I used same white 20x20 tarps(used 2 to go direct to ground) from CT. I like how you framed the end in, great job. Thanks for posting.
Well done ! I pretty much did the sand thing about three years ago , difference with mine is I was fortunate enough to be friends with someone that works on buildings like Webdy's & Hospitals. He brought me some of the aluminum siding they use , it's basically corrugated plastic covered with sheets of Aluminum and they come in various sizes but he got me some 5x7 & 5x10 sheets so I built a front similar to yours that covered it with this stuff and now the sides happy cause it's no longer the eyes sore in the neighborhood lol. Great minds right !!!
I live in wash state , I have spent so mutch time and money on those covers.The sun is the culprit. What I did was use conduit flaten the ends and add them to the existing frame .I used osb painted for the sides and tin roof no more issues.
great video nice job on upgrade another hack is to put pipe wrap or a section of pool noodle around the stress points on the pipe keep up the good work!
Right on Sparky! lol Like the idea but I think I will go with the Metal siding all the way around - enough of these covers that last one year! I do like your set up tho!
hello ssir.I would also advise taking foam rubber pipe insulation for the tubing,to stop tarp rubbing in wind.versioning is so important too.I'm a structural tent rigger,rope access climber and tree surgeon.stay safe lucky and dry.maddog.West cork.ireland
I have had one for four years going on the forth winter. plenty of snow had to scrape off with a roof shovel. it’s getting ragged now some holes in the doorway but that’s my fault. Didn’t even know you could buy a replacement covers.. went out and got the same complete tent with the polls. still got the old one up. Getting ready to get rid of. It keeps everything dry inside but it’s looking pretty shabby but I might just buy a new cover for it. Oh yeah, mine is in yellow probably helps.
I am using 5 year greenhouse film on mine....its more stretchy than either the HF or SL covers, and I think it will go better than 5 years......I am on the 3rd year.
This channel and episode just popped up. So happens I'm looking to put up a tarp structure just like this so you answered most of my questions. I may hold off and build a wood structure instead. It will go on a flat concrete driveway that I don't want to nail or drill into. Wind and city ordinance are a problem. I subscribed. Thanks from Idaho USA.
Nice 1.... some good ideas ...I have one in a box ready to assemble 12x20 ..just extending base ...has a builder was thinking maybe some insulation roll before canvas or breathable roofing membrane ...but like idea of entrance door...cheers
Thanks for the idea. If all goes right they might last 2 years out of the box. The one I have now had pin holes in it out of the box. I think I have gone through four. Originally I had two and now it's one. I do have a lot of useless pipe frame pieces.
I put some pieces of cardboard between the cloth and the curved sections of the bars and it really helped with the rubbing through. Better yet old nylon slings cut up if you can find them. really like the front on yours, way better !
I've had these type of "sheds" for decades. White is not the answer, sturdy construction lasts but costs. Your end door is the right direction; strong. The poles will rust after years, the OSB will swell and break down. Entropy, we all fight it.
My idea was to do the silicone and mineral spirits soaked in old bedsheets thing only lay the sheets wet across that tarp material so it bonds it right on. Will try it when im tired enough of adding tarps.
Thanks a million for this video ! Going through the same thing now 😮 I thought 🤔 is brand new ! at least 2 years is going to last with no problems! Wrong ! NOT even 2 weeks 😂😂...
Nice attempt to add life to your garage, however, that white cover will break down all the same I'm afraid. Also the OSB will suck up moisture and will start to swell and delaminate over time. What I did with my garage was to buy galvanized metal and screwed it to the frame. Roof and sides. I still have new poly doors front and back for now.
When you're tired of harping it, leave the tarp in place and screw light gauge metal roofing on the sides overlapping by 6" and then put on the last piece as a ridge cap. That's the way we do it in northern Ontario and 30 years later, they are still in great condition.
I’m curious if you took rubber roof sealer from box store $50 a gallon and rolled it onto the tarp every 2 years or so. On mine I put gorilla tape on the inside where pipe meets the tarp. This reduces friction and prevents tears. You did great job
It is all in the nature of the tarp material. Those metal spans are way far apart, creates exceptionally high stress points where the tarp bears on metal supports. For this type of enclosure you need a very heavy, rubberized tarp reinforced with strand fiberglass. If you get a good ice storm and snow load the present tarp material will go south quickly. For the money you are spending for tarps you are close to having bought metal sheets and do it right.
I use billboards . Billboard tarps cheap and last 15-20 years easy the one in my back yard is 15 years old and just fine . And it’s black side up . The one on my side yard trailer is a McDonald’s billboard and its color side up the print has the most UV resistance . And it’s heavy enough for the wind to not blow it .
We had our tent garage get ripped up due to a bad storm as well, but my area sees some freak winds (in Nova Scotia, on the coastline). I agree with the tarps they use though, they're garbage. Had I known more about having one before we bought and installed ours, I would've done a bit more to reinforce it before it took the beating and got destroyed. LOL Oh well, expensive, lesson learned. Thanks for sharing though! This is an approach worth taking for the cost and time it takes to unscrew and just layer on another tarp.
The ShelterLogic 15.5 oz.(per sq. yd.) or the 21.5 oz. (per sq.yd.) reinforced vinyl replacement covers are the 10- and 15-yr. covers that you describe in your video. The stock cover is not worth getting unless the use is truly temporary (like one season or maybe one year). If you think you will use a ShelterLogic tent for 2+ years, order the frame with a 15.5 oz.cover: you will save time, money, effort and hassle, as rigging the cover is the hardest part of setting up one of these things. The 15.5oz. and 21.5 oz. covers are expensive but they do last a long time (I have one of each). Your repair is very clever. Based on my experience with polyethylene tarps, I would not expect it to last very long, but it will be inexpensive and easy to replace. I like the solid entrance that you built. I would do the same but in my town I would worry about the building inspector spotting it.
I made the same mistake when I got my ShelterLogic garage. The base cover is junk, it's made overseas. The heavy 10 year cover is made in Pennsylvania and is well worth the extra money!
UV will break down regardless of color. White may reflect more but if there are not uv inhibitors added to it, it still won't last that long. some plastics use carbon black to block UV. There are agricultural fabrics that are designed to last years in full sun, and many of those are black
The good thing with using the white tarp is when it starts to deteriorate from the sun, it's SO MUCH cheaper to replace.
Ya I have a white one and it dont last any longer, you have to keep buying new covers. But I am at 9500ft up in the Rockies.
Thats one of 2 things you will never be able to beat, the other is water.
Add some sunlight and some moisture , and itll ruin anything eventually.
I like the cheaper and perhaps more UV resistant covers, and also perhaps UV resistant coatings, painted or sprayed on, but the wood end is not portable, which I would need on rented land or as a guest, or on land I intend to sell. So for me a major point of these things is portability. I want it to fit in the bed of a fullsize pickup and the wooden end would not do that.
You can get rattle cans of UV blocking clear coat. Spray that on once a year and UV should take a lot longer to mess things up.
My momma used to sew DOUBLE KNEE PATCHES on our pants to solve the HOLE problem! 😁😝🤪👍👍🇺🇸
Good idea!!
What I did with my cheap tarp shelter- I used corrugated metal installed horizontally, and now it’s solid like a rock, and no more constant work and spending.
I've had a portable garage for almost 20 years. I went through tarps every 9 months because of the hot summers in California. I even placed a second cover over the original. UV and winds would wreck havoc. Company stopped making replacement covers. Bought a custom-made heavy vinyl cover that are used for trucking and it's held up for almost 10 years. I still use a second cover to help reduce UV degradation. I had to replace one end with plywood. I am finally going to have to replace the other end after this winter.
I inherited the frame for one. Welded some tabs on. Screwed 1x4 to the tabs and steel roofing panels to that. It was the only building on the property the thieves couldn't get into.
I just ordered one and I'm thinking about welding the thing together and then screwing roofing tin to the inside to stiffen it up and then putting the tarp on the outside like normal. I'm going to lift the whole thing off the ground and put a platform on the back 10 ft and leave the front half dirt to park a tractor.
I have one that I put metal roofing on it and had walls and end pieces made by a local tarp company, and it is holding up fine now.
Excellent solutions. The cheap extra tarp cover prevents UV deterioration of the expensive original cover. The primary source of cracking at the roof bends is flapping caused by wind (initiated by cover weakness from UV exposure). Your fender washer solution secures the perimeter of the original cover and the extra tarp cover and reduces wind flow and pressure differentials under and over the large, unsecured area of the cover and tarp which results in movement, stretching, chafing, and flapping, but does not eliminate them. The design problem is that penetrations in the cover which would better secure it to the frame would cause leaks and tears, so the manufacturer eliminates them. A Midwestern greenhouse grower has an excellent solution which is proven by the yurts and tents of nomadic herdsmen. The greenhouse grower and nomads pass ropes across large areas of covers, thereby securing all parts of their expanse without penetrations. It works for Nomads in extreme winds and in extreme climates. Synthetic ropes also have a UV problem. UV-resistant ropes are available for long-term exterior exposure. Adding ropes anchored at the ground and passed across the top of your hangar will reduce damage from inevitable movement and flapping in winds to almost nil.
I had the same issue, after 3 tarps split, I put a foundation dimpled membrane, you can get them in 10' widths. I got the 8' width and put 3 pieces that overlap. Anchored them at the bottom. So far so good.
good deal sparky.. the only problem i see iss you need to paint/seal the OSB here in Georgia that wouldnt last long at all. keep it up
it will get painted when the weather warms up
Good job i got one from harbor freight that got wind damaged, your video inspired me to think outside the box and diy it my own way thanks
That's awesome, glad you found the video helpful!
The canvas sidings they use on big truck beds is the ticket man
I have to deal with this issue many times. The cheapest tents never last very long. I have changed several for friends.
The full front door is a good idea, and I would suggest a wall without sheeting for the rear, to prevent movement, which can loosen stakes in ground.
I have also poured footings to anchor with bolts to ground.
The best solution is to find some recycled roofing sheets, and cover entire frame with metal. I made another shed into an insulated shed with clear sections along lower horizontal area for natural lighting, and a floating floor made from pallets and OSB on top.
🇨🇦👍
You want to upgrade that floor. Its a rodent palace. I like to put pavers on an inch of sand on the ground and i guess if you needed you could put vapor barrier down under the sand.
That's exactly what I did, the white tarp will last a long time. Great job on the front door. That will be my next up grade, Thanks for the idea.
We have had ours for twelve years now. Went through two covers that lasted about four years each, but we will be putting pole barn steel over the frame this last time. That will likely last 50 years, and the cost is less than $500.00 with the steel from the Amish. We were going to cover both ends, but we just built a large building, and decided we didn't need 100% dry space, so we're going to leave the ends open.
How's she goin'? I like the cover you put on the Shelter Logic. I have done similar to an old temporary shelter I had. It sure makes a difference eh. The UV will rot tarps pretty quick, but it's a lot cheaper to replace the tarp than to replace the original top. I really like the door you added to the front. That is awesome and I bet it makes the whole shelter a lot more solid. My shelter will wobble from side to side, but with a front like yours, that movement would be gone totally. Nice mod and I think you're right, this will last 20 years now!! Take 'er easy!!
Hi Sir, we had the same problem with Shelter Logic. The first shelter collapsed with two inches of snow on it. We bought a different shelter that has a white tarp fabric on it. I reinforced the corners with aluminium tape for ducting furnace and HVAC and such. Not duct tape, the wide sticky aluminum tape. That prevents chaffing and cracking of the tarp on the corners. It was a bit expensive, but worth it. Also, I applied some UV protection on the tarp.
Great idea. I put a plywood front on my LogicShelter three years ago and it's held up fine. I also put a $40 tarp over my second canvas this year. I built up the sides three feet with 1x6 pine and secure the tarp with 1x3 along the top of the pine sides. Your screws through the pipe is better than what I did. I secured the 2x4s with two drilled holes then twisted wire from there to secure the wood to the pipe. You have a great set-up. Looks very secure. Great doors on that thing.
its been almost a year already and the white tarp still looks like the day I installed it ....osb is painted grey now
@@sparkys506adventures4 That's great. It's a great system you have. Thanks for posting that video.
Very nice job!! I have layered up my tarp garage too. Love the end wall, am going to mimic.
Nice work... pretty dangg schmart.
I always had the rings rip out and made the tarp more and more useless, so had to get 1/2" tubing for along the entire sides, zip tie the rings to the tubing and secure the tubing down in a couple places. this way the the pulling force was distributed more so to the entire sides, rather than one ring here and there which would rip.
I also use Titebond III glue, add water to it and use that as a waterproofing seal on plywood or OSB, especially along the ends that contact the ground area. Works great in sun and rain. Dries fast
Glue the entire board (with water) as a seal? We have a direct sun, humidity, & rain problem not to mention straight line winds....
@@schretien8714 Titebond III glue with water.... to thin out the glue. Roll it on. Ive done that with a lot of plywood that goes in direct sunlight and heavy rain. I learned that from a boat builder to prepare for rain.
@@wavehaven1Thank you so much!!
@wavehaven1 whoops, I forgot to ask a dumb question...lol...could the same be done to pressure treated wood? (Even though it's pressure treated, the wood still does not last long!!)
@@schretien8714 Yes, The main areas to seal up are the ends ( end grain) where water soaks in the most on lumber and the sides of plywood so the wood doesn't de-laminate. Some Ranchers just use motor oil thinned with diesel as a wood preservative.
Neighbor put cheap corrogated panels on a couple of the cheap Harbor Freight tent-garage frames, about 20 years ago and set T Post in concrete each corner to hold them down. They are still standing...
That's far cheaper than constantly replacing the fabric.
For zoning reasons that won't work here
Good job.. the Gray ones have a 1 year warranty and the brown covers have a 2-year warranty.. my brown one lasted about 3 years with the 13 x 20 barn style in Winnipeg.. my first one disintegrated in winter.. I think what you have to do is loosen It off a bit once it has shrunken a bit from the Sun.. good job on the end wall.. a little splash of paint and that should hold up for a while
I did the same but with an extra thick grey tarp. I put a coat of Flex Seal paint on the original cover before I placed the protective cover over it.
Update. Flex seal paint still making my shelter cover last as long as it's applied before the cover starts to rip. Better to apply it when kinda new. Luckely a replacement on Amazon is still around 300 but I'm holding off.
Good job. I’m looking to do the same thing to keep my small trailer and some of my items covered and protected from the elements without spending a lot of money.
I had a similar experience with the canvas on my unit. I used pool noodles on the ridge poles, then a tarp before I installed the new canvas. I also have solid walls on both ends for security. I got three years of use in standard form, and seven years since my improvements. Best of luck to you.
Solid doors on the end is a great idea.
Your solutions look good as well. I had to put the old tarp over the new one to block sun and wind damage; it lasted and lasted... until high winds blew tree limbs onto it; a metal roof would've been damaged too though.
Thanks for the fantastic tip.
IF you are dead-set on continuing tarps or fabric... I have the VERY BEST solution of my lifetime for you... Search greenhouse supplies for a product called "wiggle wire" ...
It is an aluminum channel and a wavy wire that goes with it. You attach the channel and lay the fabric across the channel. Then pull the fabric tight and install the "wiggle wire" to lock it into the channel...
BY FAR the very best way of attaching fabric to pipe/plywood etc... Never tears our, never lets go. I have used it in so many applications (boat covers, tarp sheds, load covers on trailers etc.) works so very well.
BUT, like others have said... throwing some framing to span the pipe (my preferred is METAL FRAMING STUDS) and then cover with metal roofing panels is the permanent solution.
That actually seems to be a great call.
I have done the same white tarp for 4 years now and will change for a new one this spring !!!😊
Good idea I’ll have to do that to mine I don’t have any issues with mine at the moment, but at least I know that extra tarp will protect it from damage
a neighbor of mine took the frame and used wood to work around it. Then built a real ashplat roof...looks good.
Great upgrade. Thanks for sharing.
Had same problem. Second material started to rip at same tight areas. Fix the top by rolling on rubberized white roof coating! And those tight stretch areas I put window screen material and rolled more coating over it 3 to 4 times! This worked!,, only problem is the sides and ends where I didn’t coat it has given out. No matter, I do plan on metal sheeting the whole thing soon . The frame is the only good thing about this product. And works well for turning it into a pre framed structure. Rubber roof coating is the cure . It works!
That was awesome Sparky. Thanks so much for this post. I bet you are helping a lot of us.
I've been thru a few of these. I always reinforce my unti with xtra heavy duty tarps. I still only get about 5 years at the most, a good storm took one out after only a year because I forgot to close the door.....Best I did was take 2) 17' Harbor freight frames and bolt them together then cover with 6 mil 4 year Greenhouse Film using wiggle wire ch.. That is on year 4 now and was a great greenhouse.
Good ideas ...the white tarp looks as good as the day I put it on and its been close to a year already ....
Nice share. I've been debating on painting it white but I may go this way instead. thx
its been almost a year and the white tarp still looks like the day I put it on ...im going to do an update video soon
Nicely and economically done.
Way cool sir!!! Thanks I have about the same setup, and when I get my place Lord's willing I will do the same!!!
Good Job! That's a great fix!!! Thanks for sharing. Watching from NB🇨🇦
Good video, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
I love your videos and thank you for posting them. Honestly, I love any advice about these shelterlogic tents because I got mine used a few years ago and have been parking my vintage car in it to keep sun and dust off it. I finally gave in a few years ago and actually applied wood to the roof however a year later the wood is warped and it looks like heck. I also priced the metal and no way. The wood holds the snow in Canadian winter, which is enough. Maybe I'll get inspired and shingle it over lol! I loved your design for the front door I was even planning something just like this myself great minds think alike! My right zipper is shot so looking for solutions found your videos. Thanks a bunch! Liked and subscribed!!
As for those comments just delete em. Mostly spoiled rich Americans who have no clue what life costs in Canada!😅
thanks for watching and commenting and subbing !!
I use a hay tarp. Expensive but last forever.
For the money spent on tarps I think I would’ve put it towards barn steel and steel the whole structure. It would last forever and add considerable strength
Thinking the same thing, put on galvanized roofing horizontal.
@@richie9214 I was thinking painted barn steel and just run the ribs the long way so it can follow the curvature of the steel structure. Butel tape the overlap ends.
Some cities have zoning about permanent structure so , keeping a tarp on it that is removable keep the nosy neighbors from rating you out.
edit: true he might be better getting a construction permit and making this a pmt structure.
@@lepotdefleur9906 It's still considered temporary if it is not fastened to the ground or to any foundation. As long as it can be moved easily, considered temporary.
Wow...very nice fix. no question.
Nice I put paracord in a x pattern between the posts to stop pooling and whipping in the wind on the roof also snow
What I did to make mine last longer living in central Florida was to paint mine with silicone white roof coating, so far 2 summers, looking good. I will apply a second coat before summer, give that a try.
The best tarps I've found so far are the green "industrial" (not the typical cheap tarps) frim Menard's. I've had one on a jeep for 4 or 5 years now and it's still fine. Nothing else holds up that long The billboard vinyl and the old Menards grey "industrial" are good too but don't last as long and get pinholes when it's cold out.
I did the same thing with mine, only I have a matching grey tarp. My unit is is shaded most of the time. I had no cracking like you, but it did have a few small leaks. It is working well!
I have a big pc of rubber roofing salvaged of course, i noticed some water drops last week on my lumber shed, think im goin to pull it over the top & secure it like you did.
I have the round top 12 x 24 shelterlogic and same problem, brand new and lasted 9 months on first tarp, shelterlogic sent a new one they offered the same upgrade choices for the same price as they did you, What I did I added a white 16mil thick tarp over the old one, then pulled the new one they sent up over the white tarp, took all the bottom bars off and folded the old tarp up so i could connect the new tarp and tightened it all down, its tight and 3 layers thick, will see how long it last.
Good information! Thanks. Wise man Warren B @ CK said double layers=10xstronger. Re: reduced friction in wind, rain, etc.
Shrink wrap is the best thing I've found it stays taught and lasts years
I have similar brand for a motorcycle. Has done the same thing. I learned you can't cinch them down too tight or they tear right on the corners. I also cut into squares a piece of the off cut that was included and used them as softeners on the corner tubes. It has helped.
This is my first comment on any video, ever. Great video. So simple and an easy fix. I’ve replaced my cover with multiple tarps over the 8 years i’ve had my shelter logic and always had to replace them in the worst weather so I didn’t put much thought into it and the tarp would usually last a year. Love the front door. Great video
thanks for watching and commenting
Necessity is the mother of invention. Great job!
Thanks Sparky. Great video. EXACT same here with our SL 12X20X8(quanset style). Saw a tear starting. 24 hours later it was "Spaghetti incident". Replaced it(another story) and it's failed(brown(more durable??)this time). I used same white 20x20 tarps(used 2 to go direct to ground) from CT. I like how you framed the end in, great job.
Thanks for posting.
Well done ! I pretty much did the sand thing about three years ago , difference with mine is I was fortunate enough to be friends with someone that works on buildings like Webdy's & Hospitals. He brought me some of the aluminum siding they use , it's basically corrugated plastic covered with sheets of Aluminum and they come in various sizes but he got me some 5x7 & 5x10 sheets so I built a front similar to yours that covered it with this stuff and now the sides happy cause it's no longer the eyes sore in the neighborhood lol. Great minds right !!!
I live in wash state , I have spent so mutch time and money on those covers.The sun is the culprit. What I did was use conduit flaten the ends and add them to the existing frame .I used osb painted for the sides and tin roof no more issues.
Home depot has the plastic corrugated 2'x20' I will be using those on mine this spring
great video nice job on upgrade another hack is to put pipe wrap or a section of pool noodle around the stress points on the pipe keep up the good work!
Bilboard vinyls work great also
I like the OSB end you put on it.
Thanks ...much more secure in there now also and no roll up door to screw with each time lol
Very good remedy.
I'm going to have to do this on my ShelterLogic.
Great example of Applied Logic.
Right on Sparky! lol
Like the idea but I think I will go with the Metal siding all the way around - enough of these covers that last one year!
I do like your set up tho!
I like the metal idea too! I'm just trying to keep the cost down as much as possible.
hello ssir.I would also advise taking foam rubber pipe insulation for the tubing,to stop tarp rubbing in wind.versioning is so important too.I'm a structural tent rigger,rope access climber and tree surgeon.stay safe lucky and dry.maddog.West cork.ireland
Thanks for the tip!
Nice job Sparky you saved a lot of money but in that you made it so much better
I have had one for four years going on the forth winter. plenty of snow had to scrape off with a roof shovel. it’s getting ragged now some holes in the doorway but that’s my fault. Didn’t even know you could buy a replacement covers.. went out and got the same complete tent with the polls. still got the old one up. Getting ready to get rid of. It keeps everything dry inside but it’s looking pretty shabby but I might just buy a new cover for it. Oh yeah, mine is in yellow probably helps.
I am using 5 year greenhouse film on mine....its more stretchy than either the HF or SL covers, and I think it will go better than 5 years......I am on the 3rd year.
This channel and episode just popped up. So happens I'm looking to put up a tarp structure just like this so you answered most of my questions. I may hold off and build a wood structure instead. It will go on a flat concrete driveway that I don't want to nail or drill into. Wind and city ordinance are a problem.
I subscribed. Thanks from Idaho USA.
Paint it all with a good exterior paint....the wood too!
Nice 1.... some good ideas ...I have one in a box ready to assemble 12x20 ..just extending base ...has a builder was thinking maybe some insulation roll before canvas or breathable roofing membrane ...but like idea of entrance door...cheers
Great upgrades 👍😄👍
Glad you like them!
Thanks for the idea. If all goes right they might last 2 years out of the box. The one I have now had pin holes in it out of the box. I think I have gone through four. Originally I had two and now it's one. I do have a lot of useless pipe frame pieces.
I put some pieces of cardboard between the cloth and the curved sections of the bars and it really helped with the rubbing through. Better yet old nylon slings cut up if you can find them. really like the front on yours, way better !
Great job well done
I've had these type of "sheds" for decades. White is not the answer, sturdy construction lasts but costs. Your end door is the right direction; strong. The poles will rust after years, the OSB will swell and break down. Entropy, we all fight it.
I used two canvas tarps for the cover and corrugated metal on each end. Ten years this April.
love your door, some folks are burning the wood a little bit and adding motor oil and diesel fuel to make the wood last longer.
My idea was to do the silicone and mineral spirits soaked in old bedsheets thing only lay the sheets wet across that tarp material so it bonds it right on. Will try it when im tired enough of adding tarps.
Great fix man just need about 20 coats of paint on that osb I think 🤔 may gray lol looks good man.
Thanks a million for this video ! Going through the same thing now 😮 I thought 🤔 is brand new ! at least 2 years is going to last with no problems! Wrong ! NOT even 2 weeks 😂😂...
the white tarp still looks as good as the day it was put on .....8 months now I believe
Brilliant upgrades. Good job
Nice attempt to add life to your garage, however, that white cover will break down all the same I'm afraid. Also the OSB will suck up moisture and will start to swell and delaminate over time. What I did with my garage was to buy galvanized metal and screwed it to the frame. Roof and sides. I still have new poly doors front and back for now.
Thats awesome! Greetings from Nova Scotia 🫡
When you're tired of harping it, leave the tarp in place and screw light gauge metal roofing on the sides overlapping by 6" and then put on the last piece as a ridge cap. That's the way we do it in northern Ontario and 30 years later, they are still in great condition.
Farm tech magazine
I’m curious if you took rubber roof sealer from box store $50 a gallon and rolled it onto the tarp every 2 years or so. On mine I put gorilla tape on the inside where pipe meets the tarp. This reduces friction and prevents tears. You did great job
that could work
It is all in the nature of the tarp material. Those metal spans are way far apart, creates exceptionally high stress points where the tarp bears on metal supports. For this type of enclosure you need a very heavy, rubberized tarp reinforced with strand fiberglass. If you get a good ice storm and snow load the present tarp material will go south quickly. For the money you are spending for tarps you are close to having bought metal sheets and do it right.
Spectacular job!! Now come on up to Grand Falls and do mine, i'll pay ya! lol
I have used tarp garages for years. The Harbor Freight ones last about 6 months in middle Tennessee weather. 12 mil.
I use billboards . Billboard tarps cheap and last 15-20 years easy the one in my back yard is 15 years old and just fine . And it’s black side up . The one on my side yard trailer is a McDonald’s billboard and its color side up the print has the most UV resistance . And it’s heavy enough for the wind to not blow it .
We had our tent garage get ripped up due to a bad storm as well, but my area sees some freak winds (in Nova Scotia, on the coastline). I agree with the tarps they use though, they're garbage. Had I known more about having one before we bought and installed ours, I would've done a bit more to reinforce it before it took the beating and got destroyed. LOL Oh well, expensive, lesson learned. Thanks for sharing though! This is an approach worth taking for the cost and time it takes to unscrew and just layer on another tarp.
I had the same thing happened and I found a seller of the used billboard signs with a size that fits and it has lasted a couple years at least.
I should have mentioned in my post they are UV protected very durable and still no issues
pool noodles on the frame help the stress points and tear areas.
Well that completely put Red Green to shame. Works..................well.
Didn’t see any duct tape though
Ive got one that is lightweight steel i used 5v aluminum sheets horizontal
Good idea. To make it last longer between re-layering, paint each time you apply canvas. Use an exterior house paint with UV protectants.
I like it !!!!!
The ShelterLogic 15.5 oz.(per sq. yd.) or the 21.5 oz. (per sq.yd.) reinforced vinyl replacement covers are the 10- and 15-yr. covers that you describe in your video. The stock cover is not worth getting unless the use is truly temporary (like one season or maybe one year). If you think you will use a ShelterLogic tent for 2+ years, order the frame with a 15.5 oz.cover: you will save time, money, effort and hassle, as rigging the cover is the hardest part of setting up one of these things. The 15.5oz. and 21.5 oz. covers are expensive but they do last a long time (I have one of each). Your repair is very clever. Based on my experience with polyethylene tarps, I would not expect it to last very long, but it will be inexpensive and easy to replace. I like the solid entrance that you built. I would do the same but in my town I would worry about the building inspector spotting it.
I made the same mistake when I got my ShelterLogic garage. The base cover is junk, it's made overseas. The heavy 10 year cover is made in Pennsylvania and is well worth the extra money!