Creating A Laser Bed Template for Production Runs - Creating a Jig from cardboard.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ค. 2021
- ➡️ Click on ...more↙️for links part one, and other links that support the channel!
The LaserMATIC 10, 20 & 30W: King of the Diode Lasers!
➡️ rolyautomation.com/lnJ4A7
The LaserMATIC 10, 20 & 30W!
The Roly Automation Facebook Group:
/ rolyofficial
❓ Need a crash course in Lightburn? This is the playlist for you!
🔗 lahobbyguy.com/playlist
✅ Grab a drink, sit back, and get ready to learn how to use Lightburn!
=======================================
Follow me on Instagram for behind-the-scenes pics and videos!
/ louisianahobbyguy
Shop my Amazon Store for focused laser products!
www.amazon.com/shop/thelouisi...
Remember! Anything you buy on Amazon after following this link supports the channel and doesn't cost you a penny more!
=======================================
🏆Become a Patreon Supporter for insider benefits and downloads!🏆
Patreon supporters get 80-100% OFF in my graphics store!
engraveandcutfiles.com/
/ lahobbyguy
=======================================
➡️ My hobby Forums: lahobbyguy.com/bb
Facebook: / lahobbyguy
Facebook Group: / lightburnsoftware
Need to message me? m.me/105768145045320
Check me out on Rumble! rumble.com/c/c-3325164
=======================================
➡️ 8 Neodymium Magnet - World’s Strongest Rare Earth Magnets - $13.99
lahobbyguy.com/magnets
➡️ 3D Print Honeycomb bed air gap Standoff STL File
lahobbyguy.com/bedlegs
➡️ 12” x 12” x 1/8” Premium Baltic Birch Plywood A/A Grade (Box of 45) - $69.99
(Other Sizes Available)
amzn.to/3KCDWIU
=======================================
I want to give a BIG SHOUT OUT to all my viewers who are supporting me in this effort! Thank you SO MUCH for your support!
If you appreciate my tutorial videos and template downloads and want to buy me a cup of coffee, or a beer to help support the effort, but don't want to sign up as a Patreon, I would greatly appreciate it!
🔗 PayPal link: paypal.me/lahobbyguy
=======================================
Need to mail me something?
The Louisiana Hobby Guy
4945 Grand Terre Drive
Marrero, LA 70072-6613
Lightburn Software - Try Before You Buy!
🔗 lahobbyguy.com/lburn
Lightburn printable shortcuts guide:
🔗 lahobbyguy.com/lb-keys
=======================================
Most of these links in the description here are affiliate links but will NOT cost you a penny more! In fact, most of them will be bargain priced, since I shop for the best value!
=======================================
➡️ Pre-Cut Leather - 3" x 48" - 1 Strip - $16.95
amzn.to/3OCSdGE
➡️ Ocooch Hardwoods:
ocoochhardwoods.com/
🆕 The NEW ORTUR CHUCK ROLLER! No Assembly Required! $179.99!
s.zbanx.com/r/44TfKGdByI9o
Ortur Laser Master 2 Metal Enclosure, for LU1-2, LU1-3, LU1-4, LU2-4, OLM2-S2-SF:
amzn.to/3fg0qPX
The CORRECT glasses for my diode laser!
amzn.to/33QQHNU
CHEAP and effective transfer/mask tape
amzn.to/3HVzGR6
Stainless scissor platform for height adjustment of my bed
Several sizes to choose from
amzn.to/2QVUSSa
Steel bed for my other laser:
amzn.to/3BVoBgb
"Punk Spikes" for the steel bed:
amzn.to/3mAMBjV
LED light bases - 2-pack - CHEAP and nice!
amzn.to/3yEdPK5
Pre-cut Acrylic for LED light bases
amzn.to/3HTJHhx
10-pack of Acrylic, 5x7 clear
Several sizes to choose from
amzn.to/3JXqmhk
60 Pack of thin wood rounds
amzn.to/3oTRwvA
Slate coasters with a stand
amzn.to/3qfIiMk
#LaserMATIC #Roly Lasermatic10 #ortur #orturlasermaster2 #lightburn #tutorial #Atomstack #Aufero - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
You've answer every single question I had in mind, I didn't have to go any further. I really love the video.
Awesome! Thank you!
Just got started on engraving recently and this was such a huge time saver. Thank you for the amount of effort and time you put into your videos
You're very welcome Timothy!
finally a use for all my wife's amazon boxes
🤪 You can make some beautiful things with cardboard!
I think this is the best template idea I've seen so far. I'm definitely going to use it. Thanks for the video!
Glad you like it George!
Rich Thank you Thank you, I have spent all day trying to frame and wasted so much, as a beginner this is totally awesome and you explained it so well , your a hero !
Glad it helped Nicole, thanks!
Rich, I save all my old cereal boxes for making templates. If I have to make just one of something I will just use two or three thumb tacks to hold it down then laser an outline of whatever it is I want to engrave. Then I turn that outline into a tool layer, put the material I am layering on the burned outline. No screwing around trying to frame something up just perfect because it is already framed.
By the way, I find your videos a refreshing alternative to the guys who are always moving their mouse pointer all over place in rapid movements here and there for no apparent reason. Very distracting. Thanks for the beyond excellent video.
😜 Click, zoom, double click, zoom, zoom, move, click, zoom... without doing anything! I get ya! 👍 Thanks for the laugh Kris!
Hi Rich, great video as usual can you advise the following, is there away to load all template slots at once instead of duplicating and adding to the next. Also how do you where to fit the template on your workspace so it aligns for engraving , if you have do not make a full size template to fit your workspace. Hope this makes sense. If you have video on this would appreciate. Nb took a break from engraving only new to this but just trying again. Many thanks
Rich you are a master teacher. I was woundering how to do just this and I went looking in your videos and found just what I needed. Thank you so very much.
You are very welcome!
Man, you've single handedly taught me...in a couple days...pretty much everything I know about Lightburn. I created a stipple pattern for my pistol (that was fun, not lol), box layouts for shipping my knives, and logos for my knife butter tins in that time....and I've barely gotten started lol.
Gratitude and thanks don't even cover it!
Awesome Cris! Welcome to the obsession! 🤪
Another winner. This will be so helpful to this newbie. Thanks so much Rich.
You're very welcome Larry!
For a newbie like me this is game changing! I have struggled all week with framing. NOT ANYMORE! Thank you so much for all you do!
You are so welcome!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I made a template as described. But when I went to use it the laser doesn't line up again. I marked my board and reset as it was when I made it. Not sure what I'm doing wrong.
@@TheGarth325 You might have to home it?
Just brilliant, you make it so easy and logical.
Glad you think so Rob! I try and keep it simple!
thanks rich, your vids are so easy to follow and this week end i will be making some templates
Great to hear it! Once you start making them, they're a life saver!
Many thanks for this template video.
Glad it was helpful!
OMG that is so simple. Thanks
You’re welcome 😊
Rich, as always.....great information. I have been lasering for almost 2 years and never thought of making a template. Going to make one for my K40.....it will be a little different than your because of the size of bed, but the same principles will apply. Thanks again!
*Go for it Keith!* I have about 20 templates and they make the hobby so much easier!
Thanks so much for all of your wisdom brother, from Canada!
*My pleasure Craig!*
Your very calming to learn from
I try... 👍
Just started my new hobby a few weeks ago. One of the first things I did was start making framing jigs/templates based from this video. Fixing the laser to a spot on your wasteboard is critical, so I cut some feet out of 1/8 ply that are .75"x1.5 with a 3mm(thickness of the plate legs on the laser) notch cut .75" into the long axis. Set the laser, slide the feet onto the outside of the legs, and screwed them down. It wont stay put on a bumpy road, but it works just dandy in the garage. 😁
Sounds awesome!
Thank you, You have been this newbies life saver with your information..
Glad it was helpful Ed!
Love it, outstanding. I WILL try this on my tile burn.
*Have fun!*
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Plan on it.
Great tips. Thanks for your videos they are very helpful.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you!
Great. I am going to make mine right now. Thanks again.
You’re welcome Tim😊
Simply brilliant!
Glad you think so! Thank you!
Thank you good stuff. I'll be using this tutorial.
My pleasure Gary!
Thank you for the Great Information
Glad it was helpful Ed!
Thank you soooo much
Thanks, much appreciated!
this is a lot of help thank you
Thanks again Gladys!
You are a God send, thank you for your videos.
Wow, thank you!
Just got an order for 100 keychains, had the Laser engraver less than a month :S
Going to try this method. Thank you for putting in the time to make this video!
Good luck!
Love your videos! I learn so much from all of them. You simply explain how things are done.
I do have a question here though. How is alingment done on a honeycomb bed? I've been struggling with this for some time now, and I seem to get nearly on but I fail to nail it exactly (product with laser head). With your video you put in a plywood sheet which facilitated the alingment of the template. This isn't possible on a honeycomb bed as far as I'm aware - because of the flare back that might occur with a solid base.
It has to be stationary and you have to use absolute coordinates.
Great idea, thanks for sharing it!
My pleasure!
I finally got it, cutting the tamp plant now. I have a lot of 5 mm luan. Thank you
Wonderful!
Thanks
Welcome!
Good job, thanks.
Thanks for watching Frank!
Awesome! Thanks
You bet Oleg!
Fantastic thanks
Most welcome!
Great videos. Thank you. Heading down to NOLA next Thursday. Keep the weather nice for me. Lol
No can do Eric! I'm in Florida on vacation!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy well you have a good time. Thanks again for the great videos. Extremely helpful.
Thank you Sir!
You are welcome!
Thanks!
You bet! Thanks so much for the support!
i appreciate your info
Any time!
Great info for a newbie
Glad it was helpful Terry!
Thanks for this! Just started using my laser yesterday and found it quite annoying that I had to keep framing things. I am sure this will save me hours and hours!
You are so welcome! I'm glad it helped you!
Very great tips. And easy to understand for my poor English level :-)
Happy to help!
You are the ONLY person to explain to where I myself can understand. But check this out, on my waste board when the laser cut out the squares it left a nice burn on the waste board. So I’m think (which can be dangerous) I can just put the tile on the waste board lines. Plus the round slates will just line up in the middle of the square. Just a thought.
I don't see why not John; good idea! 👍
Great video! I haven’t read through all the comments so maybe someone has already suggested this, but I always select the shapes on the template and, after setting them on the tool line, set them to be locked by selecting Lock Selected Shapes under the Arrange tab. This prevents me from accidentally moving the template shape while I’m placing my artwork.
You can right click on any graphic to lock it Bob. I cover it in my template videos.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I didn't see it in this one. If it's in there, well, blame it on a poor student (me) that doesn't pay enough attention. :-) Thanks again for all your very informative videos and your forum!
Just dropped on your vids by mistake. Best mistake I have made, I have learned more from you vids than others using lightburn. I only have a small sanismart 1810 pro cnc with 5w laser. Small but does the job for coaster creating and small projects.
Great to hear Nigel!
Thank you
You're welcome Tom!
Cracking video just what I need for when my laser arrives, have a sub from across the pond
Thanks so much! Appreciate the sub!
I’m so thankful I found your channel. Question, what is the point of the waist board? Is it to keep track of where you place the template?
To protect the work surface/table and to burn a grid to align projects in absolute coordinates.
Perfect advies, bedankt! 👍
Heel graag gedaan! Bedankt voor het kijken! 👍
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy 😁👍
I've watched a ton of your videos, and they are all helpful! I'm curious on this one - do you set a specific origin point, or do you home first then burn every time to make sure it burns in the right places?
I use absolute coordinates Tim.
Thanks so much for your info, Rich! Just one quick question, what do you mean by "factory edge" of the cardboard?
The edge that's cut square by a machine.
Good video
Thanks Carl!
great idea, any thoughts how folks set up non-standard items like watch bands
I have several videos on templates and odd shapes on the channel.
Really useful. I was wondering how one could consistently align multiple pieces to be engraved on both sides and the template seems to do the trick. Do one side engraving on one run flip the pieces over and engrave and cut on the second run.
Glad it was helpful Dimitrios!
Perfect!
Thank you!
First, I really REALLY appreciate all the information you make available to everyone, it's obviously appreciated by all and I love the low-key approach.
So I'm a newby to this hobby and still awaiting the arrival of my first laser engraver (Ortur LM2P2 10W) to start working with. I figure the more prep and understanding before the box arrives might be a good idea?
My first (of many) dumb question is, what stops you from arranging the blanks side by side in an array using the left and bottom edges of the work space as a starting point? It seems like the blanks should be pretty uniform and if the setup is correct, the laser shouldn't burn anywhere near the edges of the coasters anyway. Do you need the space provided by the template between the blanks?
Thanks!!
The template ensures that the coasters furthest away will align perfectly. This is not the case otherwise.
Thank you for providing this information. Is there a setting in lightburn that will engrave one coaster at a time instead of going across the x axis and doing all 3 at a time?
Yes, set the layer to fill groups individually and group each coaster Brent.
Another awesome video! So clean and to the point. When you do use air assist what do you use to supply air, compressor or aquarium pump?
I use an old CPAP machine 😎 I also have 2 others for the other lasers, a small aquarium pump and a small compressor. They all work about the same, since you can't get much air through a 3mm hose in the first place Mike.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy how did you get the CPAP machine to work? It was mentioned to get a pump that is 1030 GPH, and so I ended up buying a pump off of amazon for my D1.
@@leviguillory7242 I just put the hose inside the CPAP hose and used my #1 shop tool! Duct tape! 🙂 I have since gone to an ultra-quiet California air compressor with an 8-way splitter Levi.
Good afternoon, I just tried this and it was so easy to follow. I am having issue with it cutting the squares out of my cardboard. The cardboard is 1/4" thick. I tried the settings you had on the video but it did not cut through. I have a 55w OMtech. I have played with the speed and power and still no luck. Any recommendatioms?
You may not have it focused properly.
Thank you so much for this video as it will help me in making templates for my projects. What is the "Constant Power Mode" and when to use it or not use it? Thank you in advance for the sharing of your wisdom for this Noob.
Constant power is used for cutting Sir.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thank you. I also used it to cut the template outline on my waste board. All of it thanks to your videos and I am still watching and learning.
what i see it cut side ways correct but the height over an inch longer then the program is set for.
I don't know, could be a calibration issue: th-cam.com/video/v8kOH5McCjY/w-d-xo.html
Great video thanks for sharing. What if the laser frame was moved? You would need a way to keep it in the same place on the waste/template board to get this consistent result, correct?
Yes, the laser has to be permanently attached to the waste board Dion.
Expecting my first laser engraver “Ortur Laser Master 2 Pro LU2-10A” any day now. Do you see any problems with making templates out of hardboard, more durable than cardboard and cheaper than 3mm plywood. My main use will be my woodshop, cutting boards etc. but I plan on making ceramic and slate coaster. Thanks for the great videos, my #1 go to, watching and rewatching all of you relevant videos.
No, none at all. You can use whatever you want.
Is there a way to create a new tool path in the color palette wth a different color, or can i change the color of an existing tool path icon?
Not that I know of Mark.
Hi Rich..thanks for the video. All my graphics turned out about an 1/8" high on my coasters. I'm guessing I need to adjust my template up an 1/8" on my work board, or could there be an adjustment in my software I'm missing? Thanks
They should be perfectly aligned unless you moved the template.
@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy anything is possible. I may have it too close to the line, so I'll just raise the template about 1/16 actually, and that should do it... just making sure I didn't miss something in the software. Thanks.
Awesome video and great tip! Unfortunately my co2 laser bed isn’t the most reliable with the honeycomb grate. It’s a little smaller then where it sits on the frame of the machine so it can be moved around and sometimes I move it without realizing it. I’m not sure if other import co2 lasers are like this. My last and current machines were different brands but the same with the honeycomb being a little smaller then the base frame. Anyway I’ve been enjoying all your videos and followed you on IG. Thanks 🙏
Awesome! Have you tried using some double sided Gorilla tape? Works really well and easy enough to get off if you want to switch to the knives.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I’ll definitely give it a try, thanks for the tip
Excellent video. Thoughts on an improvement. Add .25 inch indexing hole at bottom (2 of them). Then drill in to waste board (once sure everything is aligned). You can use .25 dowel, cut to right length to make sure it says aligned. Kind of like the thumb tacks idea.
Thank you for all the video. Support coming soon. I have to try the tower :)
Great tip! I'm stealing that! 😎
Please do. I was gonna send the file to you. I have another thought to add a small relief on each in order to more easily get them out. May not be needed though. Again thanks for the video. Lol it was a “The Louisiana Hobby Guy” marathon this weekend.
Hi there, thanks for the great video. Here is a concern I have- How can I make sure that I am consistently lining up my cardboard to the right area that will be framed to the laser between projects? I have to pick up and move my xTool around pretty often (indoors to outdoors). I worry that my laser will not be framed properly to the cardboard template, and I will misalign a burn and ruin projects
Yes, it needs to be attached to a permanent waste board. On the D1, most people use a piece of plywood with 4 holes drilled out for the legs to drop into.
I still don't get where you put the laser to start, I know on my CNC you zero on the work piece but I can't find a video where to start. Or does the program in Lightburn tell it since you placed 2 in the template?
The file starts in the home position in absolute coordinates.
ottimo
Uso i modelli per quasi tutto!
Thanks for sharin
My pleasure! You're most welcome! 👍
I had a Template saved and I loaded it and put my coasters in the proper spots and hit go. then came back and it was burning off to the side of my coasters not where the template was. What could cause that ??
You may not have been in absolute coordinates.
Hey Rich, like the template idea. When all this is set up how does the laser know where to position itself for each square? Thanks,
Lightburn is set to absolute coordinates, so the grid on my waste board is the same as the one on my screen.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy ok
Hey rich great video! I have one question. For you, is your ortur attached to your waste board or did you just slide it under?
Thank you! I have 3D printed feet that it slides into, but I can lift it straight out. In this case, I just move the laser and drop it right on the bed.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy sorry I'm a little confused. So the 3d printed Feet are attached to the waste board?
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy yes that makes sense. How do you attach the waste board to your table or enclosure? Sorry for the questions just trying to get the best idea for my setup
evretime i come back an review your videos i learn someting new thanks
Glad to hear it Hector! Thanks for watching!
Rich, I'm rewatching this because a question came to mind. You mention the factory cut at 00/00 was important. When you said cut it out to get the factory edge, did you mean cut with a knife or using the existing factory edge on something you bought? Couldn't you just get a large piece of flat cardboard and cut using the laser and get a 90 degree edge on all the corners?
Yes you can Larry. Cutting it with the laser is just as accurate.
I downloaded your 6 slate production run template, When I load it into lightburn what will I need to do to use it? Newbie so trying to get started
I can't answer that in a text... it's in the video.
when you place the cardboard down what do you mean line it up on the 2 sides and its good
Once the square is burned on the waste board, you have a guide to line up the cardboard templates.
I'm just catching up. This was great something I wanted to know so I can keep watching and write it down. But now a gcode needs to be done or no?
No, this was all done in Lightburn.
I'm using lightburn. I am very new and trying to learn. So in lightburn what ever you do no need to gcode just a save as? Why is there a Gcode button in lightburn if it isnt needed?
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy
If you want to save it to a SD Card and use that with a touchscreen laser.
Hi great video. I have a question about getting a template for something which is not square eg a heart .. what would be the easiest way to do that?
I would draw an oval and then use a square to cut the 1/2 heart shape. Then duplicate the half and mirror it.
Do you need to be in "absolute coordinates" mode? Will this work with a xtool D1 without real limit switches? Thank you
Templates should be done in absolute coordinates, and you don't need limit switches.
Hello Rich. When working with the templates how do you place them on the laser to make sure it is in the right spot all the time. On the actual laser machine that is. Are there guides on the laser machines?
Just as in this video! I burn a grid on my waste board.
What wood for jib... very beginner
I use cardboard or acrylic for most of my jigs, but you can use any thin wood.
I have an omtech 55w blue with a ruida controller. I'll make a template and make a file it will be perfect. The next time I run the file it's a step to the left.every time I hit start the whole design moves a little to the left...can't figure it out
That's odd Brandon. Have you tried homing between jobs?
And you say you are just saving and taking to your laser to run. I have a spider I am trying to learn and it feels like I am balking backwards.
There's always a learning curve to everything! Keep at it!
I cannot get my graphic to snap into the center. I have to fiddle with it manually until it looks centered. What step do I need to do in order to get a graphic to snap to the center?
Set the snap distance you want in the settings Chuck. Edit --> Settings.
Just curious, I heard it was better to elevate a bit what we cut(like those honeycomb bed) to avoid burns on edges. I currently use some rectangle bakery grid, but how to align the template I would put on top of it? Also, how to be sure nothing moves if the speed is about 9000-10000mm/min?
You only elevate when cutting. For engraving at 10000 speed, no need to! And high speeds like that only lead to abnormal wear and tear on the steppers and timing belts. I wouldn't recommend it.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy That's a valid point! I had the case when doing the power grid test, and I was having some part engraved and some parts cut
Can LB lock a layer ? Like the big box you made. Can you lock that in place so when grabbing stuff you don't move it.
Yep, select it, right click on it and choose Lock Selected Shapes.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy SOB I have right clicked a zillion and three times and never noticed that selection. Thanks.
If i'm using a 3mm plywood as this template, could i just keep this taped to the table in the xtool workspace area?
Sure!
Great video....I'm curious how do you snap a image to the center of the frame?
The image snaps by itself as you move it.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy mine doesn't. Wonder what I did (or not do) that mine wont just snap to the center
Hello rich I really enjoy your videos very understandable for an old guy my question is I did make the template when I put a file in the open areas and press frame to see if it goes to that location it goes to another part of the template where there is no file I must be doing something wrong can you help me out thanks again for great videos
Hi Dave, sure no problem! Make sure everything in the template is on the T1 layer! Start fresh with just the template --> Press "CTRL + A" to select everything in the template --> Press "T1" on the color palate --> Now import your design and line it up in the template. You should be good to go! Thanks for watching!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy okay Rich thanks for answering me I really appreciate it when you say the line it up it will go right to that square and start burning. I tried downloading your template some reason I couldn't get into lightburn so I made my own template I'm burning it right now and I'll follow your instructions wish me luck have a good day
You got this Dave! 👍
I must have missed something. When you line up the edges of the cardboard, what is the reference point on the waste board. From the vid, there does not appear to me to have any reference lines. Does something burn on the board when creating the template? Sorry, I'm brand new to this, Ortur arriving tonorrow and trying to get some head starts.
Look at 2:40 in the video, you'll see I burned the reference point rectangle onto the waste board Paul. The first 2.5 minutes explains the reference point.
rich , i had one question. when you bring that file into lightburn, as a tool layer, will the settings come with it? thank you for your time
Hi Jim, the files I have for download are complete with settings. The tool paths will never burn and have no settings.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy thank you rich. getting set up to do my fist jig. i also do some small bamboo keys rings, so i would just do the same thing but in a form that suits the piece correct ? sorry for so many questions, just a plumber trying to learn a hobby
You got it Jim!
Can you direct me to a super basic start on lightburn engraving, you were referred to me
Search the channel for 101
I relly need some help... I have 6 sets to finish tonight... I used my template yesterday with no issues. today its way off and i messed up a couple coasters.. I mounted my laser to a waste board and re-engraved my template onto it... when i open my template and then import my images, its not anywhere close to where it should be starting!
You may have moved it in Lightburn. Try moving it until you get it in the right position and then select everything, right click on it and select, Lock Shapes so it never moves again.
So, I set up according to your instruction (at least I think I did), but the framing is off on the X-axis to the right about 8-10mm.Y-axis is dead-on. I checked the Pointer Offset, but that is off. Any ideas? Thx!
No Brad, if you burned the file, then it has to be accurate.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Okay, not sure what happened, but I finally gave up and flipped the spoilboard over, reattached the feet to that side and then re-burned the target. Now everything is perfectly aligned and working as expected. The only thing I can figure out is I let the laser head slam into the Y-axis rail after I had everything done, and possibly knocked it out of zero. Nonetheless, I think this one is solved. And thank you for replying to my question!
Great video again, thank you for all your help, but i have a problem, with this, i make my template and the laser work perfect square, but when the job is done my laser go back to the origin position, and when i run again the start button the laser start to engrave but not square, move to the bottom and right size, so i try to turn all off and make again the process but still not square, any suggestions i have neje master 2s max with module A40640.... thanks for your help....
I'm not sure I understand, but maybe try changing from User Origin to Absolute Coordinates Juan?
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy i will thanks
Rich, can you think of a reason my Ortur LM2 Pro will go through the motions of cutting the pattern, howbeit faster than I want, and yet not cut or engrave?
Check your connectors! Or open a ticket with Ortur Support Kennard.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thanks Rich.
Will you use absolute or user settings
Always absolute coordinates Maria. That's what the grid is designed for.