@@transferexpress Yeah, one day when I was pressing vinyl on a polo shirt brand that gets the press box really easily, I thought to myself "What would happen if I tried to iron out the edges?"...and it worked! LOL! What can be done to prevent it other than lower temp? My client has me print on cotton/poly polo shirts that they provide twice a year, and even at 275F-280F which is the lowest that Siser Easyweed HTV and other low temp HTV can go, the mark is still there! I have read that the mark may not always be from scorching but from the fact that some threads/fabric are made up of micro tubes which get flattened from the pressure of the heat press. As much as I am so happy for the "eraser" method, it's a pain in the butt to do it to every shirt in a big order.
Low temps are the failproof method, but in the exact scenarios you mentioned, it can get a little tricky. However, when using HTV, you can use a heat printing pillow to soften the edges of the platen as well as a cover sheet to protect the garment. The pillows unfortunately don't work with high-pressure transfers. If you're raising the print area or using a smaller platen for those polos, you can also compensate your pressure- lowering it for the smaller surface area compared to the full size platen area (we've got a video coming soon on the topic)
@@transferexpress That's really helpful! Especially since my client just dropped off close to 100 of those polo shirts that mark easily! Luckily I will be using whites Stahls Premium Plus which is low temp and requires very short press/dwell time. I also just happen to have heat press pillows and teflon cover sheets being delivered today! BTW, I got a new pack of heat transfer samples from you guys because I really need to expand my business beyond just HTV printing. Almost all of my orders are now large volume shirt orders (30-200 shirts) , BUT I print them all with HTV which is obviously a lot of labor and time, and I have had to turn away jobs either due to design restrictions of HTV or because I just could not fit in the order into my schedule due to so much cutting/weeding.
THANK YOU!! I have a bigger order of 100% poly t shirts I’ll be doing, so I was nervous about those scorch marks. This is a game changer! Thank you thank you thank you!!
You're welcome, we're always happy to help out! This is definitely the only way we found that really works to 'fix' those dreaded heat press marks. If you're doing a big order (to save some time) we put together a whole video on how to reduce or avoid getting the scorch marks when you're printing too: th-cam.com/video/mdl9AXPMlt8/w-d-xo.html
This is is great! thank you. I am very new at this and I have just scorched my poly/cotton blend hoodie. (65% poly/35% cotton) I want to prevent from doing it again. I am using the Goof Proof Screen transfer from you guys. My heat press isn't the Hotronix so I set my Temp at 375. I was thinking maybe my pressure was set to high? or the temp was to high? Should I wait longer after I preheat the hoodie to get the moisture out? or maybe when I press the transfer on go for 3 seconds instead of 4-6? Was wondering if you had a suggestion.
What hoodie style is it? We've done some 60/40's recently without issues, however we've found brands like Sport Tek to be a little more sensitive to heat. It does sound like the temperature is the main issue here, If you have a single-color print, you can try the 100% polyester Goof Proof instructions with a lower heat at 325 and increase the press time of 10-12 seconds. Additionally, pressure can be a hidden culprit of scorching, but with Goof Proof requiring the medium to high pressure you can under apply the transfer without enough pressure. We have a video detailing some techniques to use to avoid scorching that might help here too: th-cam.com/video/mdl9AXPMlt8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=QWlqkfFm-a5kfQtC
@@transferexpress THANK YOU! I will try the %100 poly method tonight when I get home from work. I just picked up a whole bunch of transfers from you guys this morning 😁 super excited. The hoodie is made by JMIERR men’s pullover
This can be achieved anytime with slightly damaged polyester or other heat-sensitive synthetic fibers. It does not have to be done immediately. For lighter colored fabric, if it is discolored this technique will not work. This works best for the slight sheen or shine.
Hi Dave, Love your informative Video's, always well produced and well explained. My Question is this....(I think I know the answer, but Ill ask you anyway, LOL). Could this method using the Mini Heat press work on 100% white cotton T-Shirts that sometimes leaves a yellow scorching from the press, I do also use a protection cover sheet. I use Neenah Coldenhove Jet-Pro SS Soft Stretch Heat Transfer Inkjet Papers at 375º for 30 seconds as recommended by the products information. Thanks So Much for all of these videos.
Thanks for the kind words- The entire team here is dedicated to decorator success and are so happy we can help out! For the question of the yellowing, this could be a couple issues- from stray ink on the transfer paper, to scorching of the fibers (which seems slightly unlikely at 375 degrees unless your temperature is much higher than it's displaying). Ensuring accurate temperature of the press would be the first step to fixing. Since you're using a coversheet we can rule out the top platen leaving marks (unless it does not cover the entire area of the heat press). Unfortunately, those marks wouldn't be removed by the mini press like we show here. We can try to trouble shoot and find out what's causing the issue. What blank t-shirt are you using? Is it present across different brands? While we're unfamiliar with the Inkjet paper you're using, does the discoloring happen without the transfer on the garment, like just a pre press?
@@transferexpress Hello Again Dave, Thanks for your response...(I didn't see it until now, LOL) So, I use Gildan 100% Cotton Tees (Unisex Heavy Cotton G500) Like I mentioned in my last question I use I use Neenah Jet-Pro SS Soft Stretch Heat Transfer Inkjet Papers with the settings at 375º for 30 seconds as recommended by the products information. I do get I full 16 x 20 Yellowing mark either way....not using the transfer paper with cover sheet and using the cover sheet to cover the design. I tried using a Temp laser gun to check the top platen, I think think it's close to where it should be. I have also tried a lower heat setting but when I do this sometimes the Designed Transfer image has a few little small lift ups that doesn't adhere to the shirts. I have a Geo Knight 16 x 20 swing away heat press and I did purchase a new lower platen about a year ago. I am kind of lost with this and I would hate to give up but it has been frustrating. Anyway, I truly appreciate you trying to help me...VERY MUCH. Thanks So Much
That's a strange circumstance, It could be the blank t-shirt itself, but if it's happening across different brands, then something else is wrong. One way to eliminate it is just use a lower heat transfer. In many cases it seems more cost effective to use a inkjet option, but after multiple ruined garments and time spent on frustrating issues, it can end up being more expensive than a professional option. Have you tried our Direct To Film Transfers, UltraColor Max? They apply at 290 degrees that will not be an issue even on polyester and blended garments. They also apply to any color garment with a professional quality print tested to exceed 50 washing cycles. No minimums, no color restrictions and pricing starting at just 6 cents per square inch. We'd love to send you samples to try to ensure they'll work properly for you: www.transferexpress.com/marketing-tools/free-samples
Absolutely, we completely agree, that's why we mentioned this trick is helpful if you make an 'oopsie' and need to salvage a garment or two. The best course of action for larger quantities would be to not scorch the garments by selecting a transfer type that can apply at a safe temperature (typically under 300 for 100% polyester garments). We put a video full of tips to avoid scorching in general here: th-cam.com/video/mdl9AXPMlt8/w-d-xo.html
Hey Fabian, we actually use our own proprietary papers and carriers for our screen printed transfers, but its fairly regular low temp release transfer paper. The real magic is the plastisol inks we screen print on the paper.
It’s worth a shot Bill! If the tie is polyester it should work. Set the mini press to the lowest setting to start and if it doesn’t work bump it up to the next temp setting
I have a question for you.... I have some branded golf polos that I had made 100% polyester. The collars had some issues laying flat so I ironed them out and now they are stiff AF. I'm talking like starched up button down dress shirt stiff. Is there anything I can do or soak the collar in to try and soften up the fibers or are they just torched?
You can try steaming it, which may help with some of the stiffness, but depending on the heat setting they could be scorched. Did laundering help at all?
That's a great question Diana, with Acetate being a synthetic fiber similar to polyester it should work- However, we have not tried it. With the heat sensitivity of Acetate, you will likely need to be at a lower heat setting than we used here- You can also avoid further scorching by using an additional layer of fabric between the iron and the Acetate fabric.
This same technique applies on sweat suits and performance wear. If you can, it's best to try to avoid the dreaded press box using the techniques we outlined in this video: th-cam.com/video/mdl9AXPMlt8/w-d-xo.html
Hi Dave! Will the flexible application pad also prevent scorching? If so, how much higher should the temperature be being that less heat is going through the pad? Thanks!
Hey Freddie! We don't recommend using any of the flexible application pads with custom screen printed transfers as they do block so much heat. It's hard to gauge how much heat is being blocked, so it's nearly impossible to get to the right temperature to the transfer. Those flexible application pads sure do help when decorating with vinyl on heat sensitive garments. We do have a few alternate recommendations for how to avoid scorching in our video here: th-cam.com/video/mdl9AXPMlt8/w-d-xo.html
Any idea what temperature the 2nd setting is? I already have a mini iron & am trying to figure out what setting to use on that instead of buying another item. Thanks!
These are according to cricut, however, we found the actual temps to be around the low end of these rangers: Low - Use with sensitive base materials or heat-transfer materials that transfer between 255°F - 295°F Medium - Use with most base materials or heat-transfer materials that transfer between 300°F - 355°F High - Use with Infusible Ink or sublimation, heavy-duty base materials, and other heat-transfer materials that transfer between 360°F - 400°F
That's a tough one- You're going to want to use something more like the hydrogen peroxide method for any browning or yellowing. There's also some dish soap/vinegar remedies that may work for you as well.
With a 100% cotton sweatshirt, press marks can typically be easily removed with a steamer or regular laundering- It's typically just the moisture in the garment. If the cotton was heated too high, it may be permanently damaged. You can also try to use a home iron with caution, just start with the lowest setting.
Hey Amy, because home irons vary with temperatures from brand to brand, start with the lowest setting first then increase it in small amounts until you see it making a difference (but not scorching the garment even more... its a fine line to walk 😊 )
Will this work on 100% polyester, I made a robe for my sister for her birthday & there’s tiny little wrinkles from iron vinyl & hot fix glued rhinestones, I’m at my wits end and truly appreciate any feedback. Willing to provide photos 😭🙏
Depending on how bad the garment is scorched, this is definitely one of the only ways we've found that would work to fit it. For little wrinkles you should be able to iron them out on the lowest setting
Oh No! This exact issue crops up from time to time on the backside of light grey garments- It has something to do with the specific dye in the fabric reacting to heat- we've seen it happen on sport-tek, jerzees and multiple other brands, not just on polyester but with cotton and 50/50 shirts too. You can reduce the impact by threading the garment on the press to reduce the layers of fabric over your lower platen. For a little while some manufacturers were replacing garments that had this color shift. One other thing to rule out is neon fabrics- If you had recently printed any fluorescent or neon garments. Occasionally the dyes will stain the heat press and leave noticeable press boxes when pressing on lighter colored garments- This is if the discoloration is on the front side.
Arturo, sorry to hear this didn't work- We found it to be the best results of any method we've tried over the years. For a severely heat sensitive garment that's badly burned, it may not be fixable. Was it 100% polyester or other synthetic fibers? What manufacturer and color was it?
Oooh, that's a tough one. The scorch/burn marks on white or light-colored polyester are incredibly hard to remove. There's a few tutorials online we've seen with using peroxide, but we have never been able to completely remove marks like that.
Oh No! Polyester or a cotton/poly blend? Usually temps over 350 can be dangerous to synthetic garments - You may be able to reduce the appearance of any scorching using the methods we detail in this video.
Absolutely, 100% agree, this method should be used for a last resort, small pieces or when needed. The best practice would be to avoid scorching all together like we detail in this video: th-cam.com/video/mdl9AXPMlt8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mJBj5r2vvcwFxWL_
As we mention in the video, what we show here is a last-resort option to fix scorched polyester or heat sensitive garments. We always recommend avoiding scorching in the first place like the methods we detail in this video: th-cam.com/video/mdl9AXPMlt8/w-d-xo.html With our Goof Proof screen printed transfers (that apply in just 4 seconds) we've been able to comfortably print 100-120 shirts an hour on a single clamshell press.
I've been doing this for years. I call it "erasing" heat press marks. Great video. I'm glad you are sharing this technique with others.
It's honestly like the ONLY method we've found to produce results that "fix" a ruined garment and make it sellable.
@@transferexpress Yeah, one day when I was pressing vinyl on a polo shirt brand that gets the press box really easily, I thought to myself "What would happen if I tried to iron out the edges?"...and it worked! LOL! What can be done to prevent it other than lower temp? My client has me print on cotton/poly polo shirts that they provide twice a year, and even at 275F-280F which is the lowest that Siser Easyweed HTV and other low temp HTV can go, the mark is still there! I have read that the mark may not always be from scorching but from the fact that some threads/fabric are made up of micro tubes which get flattened from the pressure of the heat press. As much as I am so happy for the "eraser" method, it's a pain in the butt to do it to every shirt in a big order.
Low temps are the failproof method, but in the exact scenarios you mentioned, it can get a little tricky. However, when using HTV, you can use a heat printing pillow to soften the edges of the platen as well as a cover sheet to protect the garment. The pillows unfortunately don't work with high-pressure transfers.
If you're raising the print area or using a smaller platen for those polos, you can also compensate your pressure- lowering it for the smaller surface area compared to the full size platen area (we've got a video coming soon on the topic)
@@transferexpress That's really helpful! Especially since my client just dropped off close to 100 of those polo shirts that mark easily! Luckily I will be using whites Stahls Premium Plus which is low temp and requires very short press/dwell time. I also just happen to have heat press pillows and teflon cover sheets being delivered today! BTW, I got a new pack of heat transfer samples from you guys because I really need to expand my business beyond just HTV printing. Almost all of my orders are now large volume shirt orders (30-200 shirts) , BUT I print them all with HTV which is obviously a lot of labor and time, and I have had to turn away jobs either due to design restrictions of HTV or because I just could not fit in the order into my schedule due to so much cutting/weeding.
Thank you thank you very much I nearly gave away my scorched tees for free not knowing how to fix it. From your biggest fan in South Africa 🙌
THANK YOU!! I have a bigger order of 100% poly t shirts I’ll be doing, so I was nervous about those scorch marks. This is a game changer! Thank you thank you thank you!!
You're welcome, we're always happy to help out! This is definitely the only way we found that really works to 'fix' those dreaded heat press marks.
If you're doing a big order (to save some time) we put together a whole video on how to reduce or avoid getting the scorch marks when you're printing too: th-cam.com/video/mdl9AXPMlt8/w-d-xo.html
This worked for me !!! Thanks ! I almost gave away the work order cause after pressing first shirt I had marks ! Client bought $50 7 diamond shirts
Fantastic to hear! So awesome you were able to use this trick to fix those press boxes and make your customer happy
This is is great! thank you. I am very new at this and I have just scorched my poly/cotton blend hoodie. (65% poly/35% cotton) I want to prevent from doing it again. I am using the Goof Proof Screen transfer from you guys. My heat press isn't the Hotronix so I set my Temp at 375. I was thinking maybe my pressure was set to high? or the temp was to high? Should I wait longer after I preheat the hoodie to get the moisture out? or maybe when I press the transfer on go for 3 seconds instead of 4-6? Was wondering if you had a suggestion.
What hoodie style is it? We've done some 60/40's recently without issues, however we've found brands like Sport Tek to be a little more sensitive to heat.
It does sound like the temperature is the main issue here, If you have a single-color print, you can try the 100% polyester Goof Proof instructions with a lower heat at 325 and increase the press time of 10-12 seconds.
Additionally, pressure can be a hidden culprit of scorching, but with Goof Proof requiring the medium to high pressure you can under apply the transfer without enough pressure.
We have a video detailing some techniques to use to avoid scorching that might help here too: th-cam.com/video/mdl9AXPMlt8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=QWlqkfFm-a5kfQtC
@@transferexpress THANK YOU! I will try the %100 poly method tonight when I get home from work. I just picked up a whole bunch of transfers from you guys this morning 😁 super excited. The hoodie is made by JMIERR men’s pullover
Great! Does this work for the shiny areas after using a heat press pillow for a zippered area? Thank you!
Ohh, super nice advice! You're awesome! super greets, thanks and hugs from México! 🤘😺
Hello. What do u call that thing u pressed to remove the scorched marks?
Hi Rosa, we used the Cricut EasyPress Mini for this video. We picked it up off Amazon for around $40.
Wow thank you so much! I literally scorched my polyester item with that damn Cricuit Easy Press 😂
We're always happy to help, and that little Cricut Press sure does get hot on that highest setting!
Does this need to be done immediately to be effective or could it be done later?
This can be achieved anytime with slightly damaged polyester or other heat-sensitive synthetic fibers. It does not have to be done immediately.
For lighter colored fabric, if it is discolored this technique will not work. This works best for the slight sheen or shine.
Thank you so much!!! Game changer for me!!!
Hi, may I know is it works on polyester + cotton blend hoodie? 🤞🤞🤞😥
Yup, this method works to fix a 50/50 or 60/40 blended hoodie. We'd recommend to use caution on rayon, modal or very heat sensitive fibers.
THANK YOU for saving my bacon on these winter tournament baseball jerseys!!
Awesome! 🙌 We're so happy to hear that we could help 🙌
Does this method work on soccer jerseys?? What do you recommend to remove scorch marks off soccer jerseys??
Yep, This method should work with soccer jerseys as they're commonly 100% polyester.
Hi Dave, Love your informative Video's, always well produced and well explained. My Question is this....(I think I know the answer, but Ill ask you anyway, LOL). Could this method using the Mini Heat press work on 100% white cotton T-Shirts that sometimes leaves a yellow scorching from the press, I do also use a protection cover sheet. I use Neenah Coldenhove Jet-Pro SS Soft Stretch Heat Transfer Inkjet Papers at 375º for 30 seconds as recommended by the products information. Thanks So Much for all of these videos.
Thanks for the kind words- The entire team here is dedicated to decorator success and are so happy we can help out! For the question of the yellowing, this could be a couple issues- from stray ink on the transfer paper, to scorching of the fibers (which seems slightly unlikely at 375 degrees unless your temperature is much higher than it's displaying). Ensuring accurate temperature of the press would be the first step to fixing. Since you're using a coversheet we can rule out the top platen leaving marks (unless it does not cover the entire area of the heat press). Unfortunately, those marks wouldn't be removed by the mini press like we show here.
We can try to trouble shoot and find out what's causing the issue. What blank t-shirt are you using? Is it present across different brands? While we're unfamiliar with the Inkjet paper you're using, does the discoloring happen without the transfer on the garment, like just a pre press?
@@transferexpress Hello Again Dave, Thanks for your response...(I didn't see it until now, LOL) So, I use Gildan 100% Cotton Tees (Unisex Heavy Cotton G500) Like I mentioned in my last question I use I use Neenah Jet-Pro SS Soft Stretch Heat Transfer Inkjet Papers with the settings at 375º for 30 seconds as recommended by the products information. I do get I full 16 x 20 Yellowing mark either way....not using the transfer paper with cover sheet and using the cover sheet to cover the design. I tried using a Temp laser gun to check the top platen, I think think it's close to where it should be. I have also tried a lower heat setting but when I do this sometimes the Designed Transfer image has a few little small lift ups that doesn't adhere to the shirts. I have a Geo Knight 16 x 20 swing away heat press and I did purchase a new lower platen about a year ago. I am kind of lost with this and I would hate to give up but it has been frustrating. Anyway, I truly appreciate you trying to help me...VERY MUCH. Thanks So Much
That's a strange circumstance, It could be the blank t-shirt itself, but if it's happening across different brands, then something else is wrong.
One way to eliminate it is just use a lower heat transfer. In many cases it seems more cost effective to use a inkjet option, but after multiple ruined garments and time spent on frustrating issues, it can end up being more expensive than a professional option. Have you tried our Direct To Film Transfers, UltraColor Max? They apply at 290 degrees that will not be an issue even on polyester and blended garments. They also apply to any color garment with a professional quality print tested to exceed 50 washing cycles. No minimums, no color restrictions and pricing starting at just 6 cents per square inch.
We'd love to send you samples to try to ensure they'll work properly for you: www.transferexpress.com/marketing-tools/free-samples
Thank you so much! This video is a life saver 💜
Rae! We're so happy we could help!
This add so much more time to printing each shirt. What do you do if you have large quantities?
Absolutely, we completely agree, that's why we mentioned this trick is helpful if you make an 'oopsie' and need to salvage a garment or two.
The best course of action for larger quantities would be to not scorch the garments by selecting a transfer type that can apply at a safe temperature (typically under 300 for 100% polyester garments). We put a video full of tips to avoid scorching in general here: th-cam.com/video/mdl9AXPMlt8/w-d-xo.html
Hi, Where can I just buy the Transfer paper for polyester?
Hey Fabian, we actually use our own proprietary papers and carriers for our screen printed transfers, but its fairly regular low temp release transfer paper. The real magic is the plastisol inks we screen print on the paper.
Just use a portable garment steamer, works great🙂
Great advice Steve! For most of those minor scorches those garment steamers work wonders (especially the ones with the little brushes on them)
SERIOUSLY?
Hey! Do you think this would work on a polyester tie that has a scorch line?
It’s worth a shot Bill! If the tie is polyester it should work. Set the mini press to the lowest setting to start and if it doesn’t work bump it up to the next temp setting
I have a question for you.... I have some branded golf polos that I had made 100% polyester. The collars had some issues laying flat so I ironed them out and now they are stiff AF. I'm talking like starched up button down dress shirt stiff. Is there anything I can do or soak the collar in to try and soften up the fibers or are they just torched?
You can try steaming it, which may help with some of the stiffness, but depending on the heat setting they could be scorched.
Did laundering help at all?
Will this work with 100% Acetate ?
That's a great question Diana, with Acetate being a synthetic fiber similar to polyester it should work- However, we have not tried it. With the heat sensitivity of Acetate, you will likely need to be at a lower heat setting than we used here- You can also avoid further scorching by using an additional layer of fabric between the iron and the Acetate fabric.
What about sweatsuits ?
This same technique applies on sweat suits and performance wear. If you can, it's best to try to avoid the dreaded press box using the techniques we outlined in this video: th-cam.com/video/mdl9AXPMlt8/w-d-xo.html
Hi Dave! Will the flexible application pad also prevent scorching? If so, how much higher should the temperature be being that less heat is going through the pad?
Thanks!
Hey Freddie! We don't recommend using any of the flexible application pads with custom screen printed transfers as they do block so much heat. It's hard to gauge how much heat is being blocked, so it's nearly impossible to get to the right temperature to the transfer.
Those flexible application pads sure do help when decorating with vinyl on heat sensitive garments. We do have a few alternate recommendations for how to avoid scorching in our video here: th-cam.com/video/mdl9AXPMlt8/w-d-xo.html
Any idea what temperature the 2nd setting is? I already have a mini iron & am trying to figure out what setting to use on that instead of buying another item. Thanks!
These are according to cricut, however, we found the actual temps to be around the low end of these rangers:
Low - Use with sensitive base materials or heat-transfer materials that transfer between 255°F - 295°F
Medium - Use with most base materials or heat-transfer materials that transfer between 300°F - 355°F
High - Use with Infusible Ink or sublimation, heavy-duty base materials, and other heat-transfer materials that transfer between 360°F - 400°F
Okay but what do you do for polyester that has a light brown scorch mark 🙈
That's a tough one- You're going to want to use something more like the hydrogen peroxide method for any browning or yellowing. There's also some dish soap/vinegar remedies that may work for you as well.
bro i have a cotton sweatshirt how to remove that marks without this gadget at home pls reply sir
With a 100% cotton sweatshirt, press marks can typically be easily removed with a steamer or regular laundering- It's typically just the moisture in the garment. If the cotton was heated too high, it may be permanently damaged. You can also try to use a home iron with caution, just start with the lowest setting.
I have a 100 percent poly Tshirt I'd like to try to fix. What setting do I use with a regular home iron?
Hey Amy, because home irons vary with temperatures from brand to brand, start with the lowest setting first then increase it in small amounts until you see it making a difference (but not scorching the garment even more... its a fine line to walk 😊 )
Will this work on 100% polyester, I made a robe for my sister for her birthday & there’s tiny little wrinkles from iron vinyl & hot fix glued rhinestones, I’m at my wits end and truly appreciate any feedback. Willing to provide photos 😭🙏
Depending on how bad the garment is scorched, this is definitely one of the only ways we've found that would work to fit it. For little wrinkles you should be able to iron them out on the lowest setting
Thaaaaaank you!
We're so happy we could help!
Wonderful 👍👍
Kind of magic isn't it?!!
Of course, all your products makes me fallinlove. And, of course when the time comes I'll contact you guys forra good business deal.
No..my grey dri fit has pink tint to it like it pulled color from mat. How do I fix it
Oh No! This exact issue crops up from time to time on the backside of light grey garments- It has something to do with the specific dye in the fabric reacting to heat- we've seen it happen on sport-tek, jerzees and multiple other brands, not just on polyester but with cotton and 50/50 shirts too. You can reduce the impact by threading the garment on the press to reduce the layers of fabric over your lower platen. For a little while some manufacturers were replacing garments that had this color shift.
One other thing to rule out is neon fabrics- If you had recently printed any fluorescent or neon garments. Occasionally the dyes will stain the heat press and leave noticeable press boxes when pressing on lighter colored garments- This is if the discoloration is on the front side.
Sadly, I can't get it to work for me!
I purchased the unit and tried this. It did not work.
Arturo, sorry to hear this didn't work- We found it to be the best results of any method we've tried over the years. For a severely heat sensitive garment that's badly burned, it may not be fixable. Was it 100% polyester or other synthetic fibers? What manufacturer and color was it?
Didn’t work for me either
I'm needing to remove a scorch/burn mark off a mousepad that I used infusible ink on 😥
Oooh, that's a tough one. The scorch/burn marks on white or light-colored polyester are incredibly hard to remove. There's a few tutorials online we've seen with using peroxide, but we have never been able to completely remove marks like that.
I used my favorie shirt as an oven mitt and I think I ruined it D:
Oh No! Polyester or a cotton/poly blend? Usually temps over 350 can be dangerous to synthetic garments - You may be able to reduce the appearance of any scorching using the methods we detail in this video.
@@transferexpress Its 99% polyester and 1% Spandex, thank you :)
in mass production this is annoying to do though
Absolutely, 100% agree, this method should be used for a last resort, small pieces or when needed. The best practice would be to avoid scorching all together like we detail in this video: th-cam.com/video/mdl9AXPMlt8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mJBj5r2vvcwFxWL_
The answer is iron it out. Your welcome
The smaller the iron the better, and start with a lower temperature to not scorch the garment more, but it totally works!
What setting would you put on a regular iron?
Gonna try that. Ruined my 200 bucks football shirt💔
did it work?
I was really hoping this would work but it didn’t.
Ummm… This guy needs better glasses. I can still see the discoloring.
And when do you make money? " One hour " / tshirt ... Try another solution
As we mention in the video, what we show here is a last-resort option to fix scorched polyester or heat sensitive garments. We always recommend avoiding scorching in the first place like the methods we detail in this video: th-cam.com/video/mdl9AXPMlt8/w-d-xo.html
With our Goof Proof screen printed transfers (that apply in just 4 seconds) we've been able to comfortably print 100-120 shirts an hour on a single clamshell press.