OTC 4748 Belt Tension Gauge Tool Review -EricTheCarGuy
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ต.ค. 2014
- OTC 4748 Belt Tension Tool $14.99
Link to tool: www.jbtoolsales.com/otc-4748-b...
Expensive belt deflection tool.
OTC 6673 Belt Deflection Tool $134.59
Link to tool: www.jbtoolsales.com/otc-6673-u...
I'll admit I had a bit of difficulty working out how to use this tool. Once I grasped the concept it went a bit smoother. That said, you'll need a little practice to work this out. You'll also need the specs for the vehicle and belt you're working on, but I do cover some general rules about belt deflection in the video. More info in the links below.
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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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There is a simple formula that you can use with this tool that makes it much easier to use. Given;
1) Spec belt tension, T, in lbf (pound-force, or just pounds for everyday use),
2) Distance between the center of the two pulleys, L, in inches
Put the device on the belt in the middle of the span, and push down on the plunger until hits the "10 lb" mark. The amount of deflection you should get if belt is at spec tension (T) is given by the following formula:
D= 2.5*(L/T) where D is in inches (assuming L is in inches and T is in lbf). I would round that to nearest 1/8"
This formula can be derived by drawing a free body diagram of the belt and tensioner. FWIW I am a physicist and former physics professor - anyone who took freshman physics should at least be familiar with the concept. But in any case with this formula this becomes an easy to use tool. I agree that without such instruction, it's usage is somewhat obtuse! I just used it for the first time and had to do the above derivation to make sense of it - having done so it was easy to use and worked like a charm. I calculated ~1/4" deflection for my application (alternator , which resulted in a belt tension that "felt right" based on years or wrenching.
You can also measure belt tension with a frequency detector app on your phone. How this works is you pluck your belt like a guitar string and measure it using the detector app. If it's too low you tighten the belt and if it's too high you loosen it. I know it sounds kinda crazy but that's how they do it at the Renault dealership.
If your service manual doesn't specify the tension as a frequency, there's a formula that will allow you to make the conversion. You can find it online if you search for "belt tension to frequency formula".
Wouldn’t belts of different material/manufacturers produce different frequency. How good be the measurement?
I thought they used seem units on french cars?
@@baronvonchickenpants6564 Renault at least has a lot of belt configuration depending on options and generation, so you will find both types even on the same generation of car, depending on how it was specced.
Eric just a heads up I think in the manual the lbf, may stand for pounds force, not pound feet. There is a similar unit lbm for pounds mass. I could be wrong, but I go to school for engineering and lbf is referred to as pounds force.
No need to put it in decimal form. That adds an extra layer of confusion.
(1/64) multiplied by 9 equals (9/64) An eighth of an inch is 8/64 so it is slightly over an eighth of an inch.
^This.
Apply the prinicpal rule (1/64) and measure with your ruler Pulley to Pulley and multiply
What do you set the O-Ring of the Gold Plated area too initally (how many inchs) when you place pressure on the Drive Belt.
That is seriously the most confusing tool I've ever seen. LOL! You did a good job explaining it, though. But I'm never going to use a tool like that.
I'll just use my rule -- loosen it 'till it squeals, then tighten it a couple of turns past the point where it stops squealing. :-) Kinda the same way I do timing on an old car -- turn the distributor until the engine starts to die, then go the other way until it starts to die, then turn it to the point that's exactly in the middle of those two points. Close enough. :-)
HI Eric, I have the same tools. I like this method of adjusting the belt. Fast and good. This tool pressure at the end, but not stuck. You can get close to the pressure value of 10 kg.
In the description, the more expensive tool is listed as $134.59. I couldn't help but to notice that (just over 9 years later) it's now 258.99 when I click on the link (and that's a "sale" price). Good ol' inflation
Just want to say you have saved me tons of $$$ by watching your videos. And the cars you work on are ones I own
What you can do is figure out a ratio between the force applied and max deflection provided in the manual, and then work out whats the max deflection based on the force you can apply with your particular tool. Sure it might not be 100% accurate because the relationship probably isn't linear, but it'll be close enough.
Press thumb on belt, make a face like you know what you are doing here, done. ;)
This sounds very correct to me.
Hey, other people use the same method! :D haha
Another method is ignoring them, the belts, just so long as they're not too tight. And not so loose that they start slipping.
zammap08 That is actually my preferred method.
My method too. Lol
This OTC tension gage tool is for motorcycles. I bought this tool and quickly returned it when I realized what It was. The automotive belt gage from OTC is $120!
My tool is a stick that spans the pulleys and another stick that is at right angles attached to the center of the first stitck about 2 “ long. The short stick has a mark at the correct point. A fish scale pulls the belt to the mark the lbs noted. Mine is for a swamp cooler 3lbs at 3/4”. Adjust tension as necessary. $3.00
Thank goodness for serpentine belts & auto tensioners. When I was messing with "V"-belts I would usually crank the adjuster until the belt "felt" tight and left it at that. Not very scientific and sometimes it was tighter than other times BUT it worked.
So that unit "lbf" is "pounds-force." A pound can also be used to measure mass (sort of) and that unit would be "lbm" or "pounds-mass." The first time I saw "lbf" I thought it might be pound-feet but I was informed otherwise especially when the units didn't work out in the equation.
You convert fractions to decimals by dividing the numerator by the denominator. You can convert back from decimal to fractional inch by doing the opposite and multiplying the denominator by the decimal. It doesn't matter how crazy long the decimal value is. 9/64 = 0.140625. 0.140625 x 64 = 9! Say that you measure the diameter of a drill bit shank with some digital calipers; it measures 0.8125: take this and multiply it by any standard fractional inch denominator i.e. 16 and it will spit out 13 or 13/16ths. Had we chose 32nds it would have spit our 26... I hope this helps people.
interesting i also am aware of timing chain , time belt tensioner gages as well as the serpentine belt one your going thru. They also make universal ones that one should beable to use on all the types of belts and chains... though i questioning how good this is over just a little experience and tweaking to your liking.
Not trolling, but no decimal conversion required. 9 * 1/64 =9/64. this is 1/64 more than 8/64 aka 1/8, so 1/8 is the rounding point.
First of all, thanks for explaining how this gauges are supposed to be used. I just started researching this field for something none automotive and wondered how in the world to use these.
I am not wild about the tool because of the likelihood of a fairly inaccurate reading, but that is not why I selected "dislike!" It is because of a couple mistakes or misdirections on your part.
First "lbf" does not represent "pounds-feet" like you mentioned but "pounds-force" as opposed to "pounds-mass!" Secondly, when you measured the distance between the pulleys, you indicated it was 9 inches, therefore requiring 9/64' inch of deflection required for proper tension, by the "rule of thumb" you mentioned earlier. You then converted it to decimal and then clumsily back to a fraction. You already had it as a fraction, 9/64, which is 1/8 of an inch plus 1/8 of an 1/8th. The conversion just introduced more work and more chance of error.
Great video. I'm about to change out a belt on my car and I might pick up this tool. I can't wait to see your next repair video. Can you possibly do a video on checking and changing engine mounts?
For todays tool review, belt tension. Sorta. OTC 4748 Belt Tension Gauge Tool Review -EricTheCarGuy
it was confusing..lol but i never knew there was such a tool.i just replace and run and never thought to adjust.But i must say watching you video i learn alot of stuff..stay dirty ☺
EricTheCarGuy I see this review and I own one of these www.amazon.com/Gates-91107-Belt-Tension-Tester/dp/B000MUTAGS and I was wondering does it do the same thing? What the difference is and if/why the otc one is better?
You're for sure looking thinner and healthier Eric, keep it up!
the link to the more expensive tool is almost no help because the product description is for a three jaw pulley remover not a belt tension tool
Great video on how professionals do it. If your belt is too tight or too loose it will not last as it should. Incorrect tension is the biggest reason belts fail. Over tightening belts can cause bearing issues. Pushing on it with your thumb or twisting the belt 90 degrees is for back yard mechanics. Manufactures don't give specifications for a reason.
Love ur show bro keep doing ur thing
What do you set the O-Ring of the Gold Plated area to initally (how many inchs) when you place pressure on the Drive Belt.
So when 10 lbs of force is applied on a belt that routes on two pullies which are 9 inches away from each other, the correct deflection you will see on the centre of the belt is 9/64 inches, is that correct ?
Hey Eric I have a question regarding my 2003 Mitsubishi Galant... So I just Changed my IAC Valve due to poor idling a week ago. Then was fine afterwards. & today the idling is doing the same cuts off whenever rpm's get low, any suggestions ??? Also cleaned throttle body. Hope you get back to me.
Actually, the safest and best way to tension non-toothed belts is by running the engine and observing if the belt flips and flops(vibrating motion). Then you tighten slightly and observe the belt. As soon as it stops flopping, that belt is tensioned sufficiently. This way you ensure that it is not overtightened! The absolute best way is to get a belt-tension meter or belt-deflector and follow the specs, but not too many people have that. So the way I describe it will ALWAYS work!
I'm pretty sure this particular version of the belt tension tool is for the drive belt on a motorcycle. The 10 pounds of force is exactly the spec for force in a lot of motorcycle maintenance manuals.
what about the gates belt tension tool?
N = newtons of force specified in repair manual. Take (N/9.8) kg of measured mass. Place it on the center of a horizontal belt and measure deflection.
Easy :^)
Also this tool isn't useless this video just poorly explains it. Basically the service manual species 98 newtons, and 13-16mm of deflection. Eric's tool puts out (98/2.2) newtons (10lbf).
So if you know the relationship between belt deflection and force applied you can solve for how much it should deflect for when you apply (98/2.2) newtons aka 10lbf to the belt. This isnt a linear relationship so you can't just divide 13-16mm/2.2. A moment of thought tells you that it gets harder and harder to move the belt as you pull on it, thats why its not linear. It's probably a square relationship but I don't really know the physics behind it.
That being said if you knew how the tool worked (it's probably just a spring) you could actually accurately apply the right amount of force here. The amount of force a spring exerts is proportional to the distance you compress it. So what eric could have done is just pushed harder on the tool so at it went 2.2 times the distance it takes to go from rest to the marking that is "10" and he probably could have used the repair manual spec.
IF you want you could swap out the spring in that tool for one that has a spring constant 2.2 times greater and then the 10 on that tool would actually be a reading of 22lbf, which is what the manual wants.
To measure the constant of the spring you want take 10 = kd
d = distance between rest position and the 10 marking
k = spring constant
measure d, solve for k
I tighten by feel but 9/64" would be the number you are looking for given your description.
So last week I replaced the alternator on my moms Honda RD1 CRV only to discover half way through the job that all three belts on that side of the engine were cracked to hell and needed replacing. Same goes for the lower driver side engine mount. Parts just came in and the only thing I needed to figure out was belt tensioning. Hmm. I might just do the install and take it over to a friends shop to get tensioned.
That's a cool tool thanks erik
have you try to turn the shaft on it to get to 20 or higher
Good Job Eric. But i have never in my life set the tension to spec using tools and i have never got any issues or problems.
That is for a Harley drive belt. You need the Gates Krikit 91107. Their bigger one is 91132
I'm so glad Honda has finally gotten rid of the manual belt adjusters and went with an auto tensioner like the rest of the world on the new Accords! No more knuckle scraping when changing a belt!
in this context "lbf" means pounds of force, not foot-pounds, which is properly abbreviated as ft-lbs. Further, the long belt is asking for the force of 22 lbs force to be applied to the center of the full length of the belt span and measuring the deflection. Notice that a tool is not shown in that picture.
If I get kirkik tool it test the ftlb how much would it be on Honda accord
Any two pullies points or does it have to be specific pullies
It looks the the link to the GreenHack article is no longer valid, and searching their articles doesn't seem to yield anything related. :( Got anything newer? I'd love to read up on the subject.
EricTheCarGuy I see how you'd love the metric system right now, LOL!
Much easier to calculate with....
This video made me thankful that since I own a German car, everything i work on with the car is a millimeters, not that stupid fractions crap...lol!
trouble with that tool most engine bays don't have the room to use things like that, what I have done for years on vee belts is to under moderate pressure grip it in the middle of it's longest run with finger & thumb only twist the belt though 90 degrees
then if does then belt tension is right but like a lot of old methods you have to get a feel for it.
Belt tension comes to you with experience, too loose is bad because it will squeal or fall off, too tight is the killer, that destroys bearings and wears out components. Its like tightening nuts and bolts you get a feel for it after a while,
What is the song you use at the start of tool review videos
I'm missing why you think it's OK to use a gauge that measures deflection at 10 lbs force, when the manual specifies twice that number?
So we're approximating the span between the two pulleys, converting base two math to base ten math and then back to base two, rounding out calculations on measurements that are barely perceptible to the human eye, using a point of reference (straight edge) that's not fixed and using a tool which is not capable of measuring the prescribed amount of force given to determine highly specific results? I think I'm going to stick with shoving a pry bar behind the alternator and pulling, cranking down the set bolt and checking it with my finger. Can't say I can see a way to measure this accurately enough to make this tool worthwhile.
I'm pretty sure i seen 20 written on the shaft when it is relaxed right by the barrel.
so whole shaft is 20 hence the 10 been in the middle.
*VERY* convoluted. 30+ years- I've just gone with ~1/2" deflection, give or take 1/8" depending on belt type, age, and temperature at time of measurement. As for "spring loaded" or "automatic" tensioners- I've measured where the tensioner pulley is with belt on, warm engine- then where it is with belt off, to 1st check the tensioners' operation and pulley/bearing condition. An installed belt deflection here of greater than 1/2" would mean a weak or failing or binding spring/mechanism. Over tightening a drive belt is worse than being _slightly_ loose. Premature failure of the belt, and an unnecessary load on pulley bearings will result. Also- Belt Dressing is a *MUST*. It moisturizes, protects, promotes adhesion, and repels water & salt corrosion in winter climates.
Oh jeez! I'm a mechanic and I was confused. I think that tool would quickly find it's place in the scrap pile in my workshop. And INCHES? Does the island of the U.S.A. still use that stuff? All kidding aside, great video Eric. Even if it only convinced most people to not buy this type of tool.
thank you man
Surely the distance between pulleys on the part of the belt your measuring will change things as well, longer section of belt should deflect easyer.
I could be mad :D
Having used half the deflection force, you've completely invalidated your measurement. The deflection force is THE most important number to have. You can get your "1/64th of an inch deflection for every inch of distance between pulley centers" at ANY belt tension, if you use enough deflection force. Go ahead...tighten your belt until it feels like a steel bar. Then take a crowbar and create a deflection. Oh, look...you got the right amount! The belt's about to snap and the shaft bearings glow when the car runs, but you got the right amount of deflection!
Just multiply .140625 by 16 for 16ths 32 for 32nds 8 for 8ths etc. And it will tell you how many.
Eric the math guy!
Eric, your method for finding the deflection is so round about it made my head spin. You said it yourself, for every inch its 1/64. 9 inches would be 9/64. Simple math would tell you 8/64 would reduce to 1/8. So just a hair over an 1/8th. Same answer, no calculator. Also, you have twice as much deflection as it should have, but only at less than half the force to check with? Love your videos, though. Keep it up!
My T100 manual says a new belt that has run for 5 min. is considered a used belt.
So I guess the used belt torque applies to a new belt ran for over 5 min.
And new torque for new belt under 5 min. Brilliant eh. 😃
Sorry Eric, but this tensioner tool from OTC is for motorcycles (which may explain why you had such a hard time with it). I purchased this same tool from JBTS and had to return it. OTC DOES have another auto belt tension gage tool, but much more expensive. I really like your videos and if I could politely recommend; Please do a bit more research on the tools you are hawking. Not all of us get free tools to review and sell.
That's not "pound feet", it's pounds force. (As opposed to pounds mass. The English system tends to confuse them because technically weight is mass in slugs times acceleration of gravity in ft per second per second. But nobody uses slugs haha.) Cheers!!
Guesstimate what Eric is going to push next.
If you get 1/64th of deflection per inch then, 9 inches is 9/64ths, like 10 inches is 10/64ths or 5/32ths.
Arrrg! "lbf" does NOT mean pound-feet, it means pound-force. Ie: One lbf is the force that gravity of earth applies to a one-pound mass. Which is the force that would register on a spring balance (for example) when it's used to measure a 1-lb mass. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pound_(force)
its 3/4?
Take 10kg weight place in middle of belt.Use a straight edge and tape measure and texta.Pick a point of reference.You get it basically what this tool does.
It only shows 10lbs because that tool is made for Harley-Davidson belts and they are 10lbs. If you are doing cars, you might want the correct tool for that.
I think I will just stay with the Dayco Criket tension gage.
I suspect it would be easier to use this tool with metric rather then imperial.
Nice video Eric as always :) and the tool seems quite nice to have for the price.
As a european I have to smile every time I see someone using a calculator just to figure out a distance :)
I wonder what you (Eric) think about the imperial system, do you like it or do you think america should use the metric system too? (Maby a good topic for a ETCG1 video)
There are advantages and disadvantages to both systems. For everyday life, the imperial system is better due to every unit being based on simple things like a foot. Of course this doesn’t work for anything requiring precision. We use both systems in the US. If you Europeans are so smart, what’s so hard about learning our system in addition to yours like we do?
My favorite part about the metric system is how they based it on a meter being 1/10 millionth the distance from the equator to the North Pole... only to find out years later they got that quadrant distance wrong. Oh, that and they used fractions in creating the measurement. LoL.
0 is freezing of water and 100 is boiling of water
1 litre of water weighs 1 kg
pretty easy really
guess it the metric system to be used in futuristic water world
Stink Nugget tool! But if it pays the bills more power to you man.
Easier way to do the math. each inch is 1/64. there are 9 inches so it's just 9/64. round that up/down to the nearest even number so you can divide down further. A tape measure usually has increments down to a 16th so at least try to shoot for those units. that's really close to 8/64 which is 2/16ths or better known as 1/8th with 1/64th remaining. What you do with the remainder is up to you, usually it's not worth worrying about but if you are using a tool that can indicate it you can rough it in to the known common measurement then fine tune it to the remainder. This may be trickier for people who don't deal with common measurement units but for those that do, a bit of rounding will get you to the closest common fraction then you can chose if you want to take the remainder into account or not if it's important.
Or easier still catch up with rest of the world and change to the metric system so you dont have the issue of working out fractions, why make it harder than it needs to be.
banana5616 Unfortunately that's not a personal issue, but a matter of convincing an entire nation's standards institutions to comprehensively switch to a system that is largely unfamiliar and could cause significant confusion if not performed carefully and gradually. I'd expect most automotive technicians have a good grasp on the metric system, what with all the imports most of them see, but that's no help when American carmakers insist on sticking to SAE standards, and too many tools get made to SAE standards.
We (in the United States) all learn the metric system basics in grade school. If they would stick with it, and dual label things, a change could happen. Instead, advanced math classes all go into fractions, which just feeds the Imperial system. My dad's generation generally can do basic math with fractions without thinking. My generation and younger all think real hard, then get a calculator because we've forgot. In metric, it's really a lot simpler. Though I really hate the Celsius scale.
And here's another way to convert a decimal number to fractions. The decimal number he ended up with is 0.140625. Take this number and multiply it by whatever units you want. For example, if I wanted it to be in 16ths of an inch, multiply 0.140625X16=2.25. That would be 2/16ths with a remainder which equals a little over 1/8". If the remainder is less than 0.5, then use 1/8". Or if the remainder is 0.5 or greater, round up which would be 3/16".
better math teacher than mine in school
Always went with "you should just be able to turn the belt 90degrees on the longest length". Seems to work for me.
*****
This is getting weird now. Had someone recognize me on Tf2 last night.
At the moment, not much. Looking at some ebay specials for a project or two. Dosh is rather short of late (road tax + insurance came up).
Do mechanics actually do all this or they just replace the belt and thats all? I mean, how would we know... Thought like this is what makes me waste a week on figuring this kind of stuff out, even though if I just worked any other job I would make more money and be less frustrated
I'd be tempted to drill and install a set screw for the stop rather than use that rubber o-ring, but realistically I'd probably just return that after seeing how clunky it is to use.
Hey Eric, I doubt mean to sound like a jerk, but why bring our the calculator? If the rule is for every inch you can have 1/64, then that would mean that for 9 inches you are allowed 9/64, which as you may know is just over 1/8. Again, love your videos, but I don't see the need for do much headache.
Eric, sorry about this,but it seems like your just advertising products and not making repair videos anymore. And thats fine,you make the money while you can, but I came to your channel for repair videos and thats basically gone. Now I am stuck with Scotty Kilmer. Shouldn't this type of stuff be on your other channel anyway?
I was just asking myself if such a tool exists..how it would be used, etc. Found this very helpful.
Eric does tool reviews. Useless tool I might add,but it is what it is...You can watch repair videos on Fridays. Scotty Kilmer does 3 min. so called " repair " videos where fasteners magically get loose and parts get taken off and put in place by themselves. Those are not repairs. You don't learn anything from that. He's also biased towards a certain brand and the rest are all junk. That's a suicide tactic for his channel.
joeandgod1 I don't get paid for tool reviews and never have. As stated, if you want repair videos, watch on Fridays and stop whining.
You can't repair cars without tools. So tool reviews go well with repair videos. And Eric doesn't get paid for these. He just gets a tool and does an honest review.
I just want to see more repair videos and less advertisements,I mean tool reviews. I don't need special pliers to remove my gas cap(ha,ha). Eric made the best repair videos and there missed, thats what I am saying.
You did your math wrong, your close but if your doing it for a 20lb plus oem spec then you need to multiply by 2 if your running a 10lb belt spec gauge. You should be getting different readings but not far from what your seeing, kudos on the tool tho I just do the belly up test for accessory belts
Getting taught maths by ECG is not what I expected from this video, haha.
BTW, it's much easier to just keep it in fractions in the first place and use fraction math;
1/64 x 9/1 = 9/64, or a little over 1/8" if you're measuring with eighths. ( 1.5/8", technically )
just remember to multiply straight across, and make 9"= (9/1)" Calculators are way overrated.
Thanks Eric. I got one of those gauge, and was using it incorrectly.
you still are!
Not so
So Eric isn't that what the belt tensioner is supposed to do on a serpentine belt? Apply the right amount of tension...till "POW!!" the belt breaks.
Ya I know that but really who has those anymore. Fan belt are the past / history.
Big Guy
You haven't looked under your hood have you? I have yet to see a vehicle without a belt. Fan belts are gone but the alternator and air conditioner are still ran with belts.
+Dick Mick I am talking about the use of a single belt for each unit. IE one for the alt., one for the pwr st., one for the fan, and so on. Those belts are known as fan belts/ alt belt/ pwr str belt....ect. They have been replaced by serp. belt. but then you already knew that. oh well.
Wasn't it 20 pounds when you pressed it all the way in?
I don't know how i've gotten by without this tool. I knew i should have taken geometry. :/
Still can it's all on the net.
UGH...! This tool, process and results leave me with a feeling of NO confidence and I'd probably just go out and buy a new belt, tensioner, idler pulleys and call that good enough! lol... Ignorance is bliss!
My guy, why did you convert a fraction to a decimal just to convert the decimal back to a fraction? 9 x 1/64 = 9/64, which is 1/64 greater than 1/8 inch.
There is a trick to proper belt tension in an "Adjustable" application. Too much and it wears out other components, too little and it talks back LOL If EricTheCarGuy takes the time to show you the proper use of a tool, it will help you to do proper service work.. Enough with these spiteful comments.
Dude, my belts are sooooo tense.
If the tool was in 100ths or in decimals it would be a hell of a lot better.
Instead of doing all of that math it should come with a table of deflection vs belt length for every given span to the nearest 1/2 inch.
Did he just measure an illustration?
Metric system!!!
David Lovšin I know right?
EricTheCarGuy Yes it's simpler.
You know what they call a Quarter Pounder with Cheese in Paris?
Arthur Silva A Royale with cheese!
David Lovšin 1 pound = 4.45 Newtons
You made the math more complicated than it needed to be, plus you don't need a calculator. At a rate of 1/64" per inch over a distance of 9 inches = 9 x 1/64 = 9/64" is just over 8/64" (which is 1/8").
dont know how i like that o ring deal feal like id end up loosing them an itwould be useless
Just tighten it till it doesn't squeak anymore. :D
Never....
I'd rather spring for 10 times the amount for the more accurate tool.
wow 9:38 that i well never get back thought you were a gold star not a hack but guess i was wrong
Hehe. This video quickly turned into a commercial for the metric system ;)
my grandpa said not to tight its all right lol ill fallow that
LEARN THE METRIC SYSTEM!!!!!!!!!!!
That was also my 1st thought. OMG this US inch is completely unusable for stuff like this
An american making a video in america mostly aimed at english speaking americans. I'm sorry but using the imperial system just makes more sense. BUT I (an american) do wish we (the united states of america) would switch to the metric system. How many times can I say america or american in one comment.
x9x9x9x9x9 USA invented many great things which we in the rest of the world benefit from, but the imperial system makes everything more complicated. Glad we didn't adobt this :-D
This tool would be better if it had more force markings besides just 10 pounds.
9/64 = 8/64 + 1/64
8/64 = 1/8
Off the top of my head in 15 seconds, no decimal coversions needed.