Nice 👍. I built a Stirling engine for a college project once, made of tin cans and coat hangers. I always wanted to build a big one that could do some work. Very inspiring 👍🔧
Shane thanks for sharing this whole series, I've liked every single video! Your pops must be proud. The water hose for cooling is still a bit of a cheat, you could build a closed circuit for the cooling water, with a pump and water to air cooler. At the same time, add an air blower to the furnace to increase temperature. Everything powered by the engine itself of course. I reckon you'd lose some power with a forced water cooling circuit, but you would definitely see an increase in power with a hotter fire. Reduce any metal heat bridges between the hot and cold side (basically bolt mount the regenerator box with cork gaskets on both hot & cold side). Insulate the hot side of the cylinder head too. Create a more aerodynamic regenerator box. If create a second version, I will watch that series too!
Hi Sam, thanks for the comments, I'll take those into account on the next engine : ). I'm probably going to leave this engine as is now and learn from my mistakes. I'll add the cooling water to the pump circuit so it's self contained👍
Hi Shane ! So far i'd say your project has the most credibility for a high power sterling engine that i've encountered on you tube so far. There are some very professional looking commercial submissions but all i've seen so far is B.S. and no proof. I am also working on a high output sterling. It is a 10" (piston) beta configuration oriented vertically with the hot end at the bottom. It is complete and all together but is not self running yet. A couple things I must comment on. First off your oiler system. I hope you are using a silicone oil for a lubricant as a petroleum based lube has the possibility of causing a hot end explosion if it vaporizes in the hot end. If you are, consider a blow out plug for safety. Explosions have happened in the past. I am using a 3000 cst silicone lube even though I think silicone oil does not lube as well as petroleum lubes. You can get it from a RC hobby store. Not sure if you have solved your piston cylinder interface problem. I think the sliding surfaces need to get out of the heat or maybe a graphite contact facing. Mine's a Beta but my piston cylinder wear ring /piston seal is as follows: wear ring around piston made of rulon/turcite? (teflon impregnated bronze). Piston seal same material but series of holes around top of piston leading to behind seal to pressure actuate it only under gas pressure. Other wise seal is loose fit. You can make a more effective regenerator if you just get a long strip of metal and fold it like an accordian and drop it in. Thinner sheet metal is better to a certain point. The goal is surface area of course.
Hi, yes, there are alot of theoretical / project stirling engines floating around the Internet but little hard evidence of engines that run! I hope you success with your project. 10" is a fair size engine! I can't wait to see it. I have tried silicon oil but found it to be unsatisfactory (with leather seals anyway!). When it touchs the heater it turns into a crispy mess and mixes with the liquid silicon and creates a paste that binds the seals up. A philips engineer got killed when some oil got inside one of their engines but they are highly pressurised engines. For atmospheric engines it is fairly common practice to use mineral oil, rider, ericson and other 1900 engines. I use oil of paraffin (not paraffin fuel!), it is basically baby oil. I've been running my stirling engine all weekend with 13 other stirlings engines and no-one had any explosions! Your piston sealing method sounds well thought out. My pistons are the plunger / ram type so are externally sealed against the piston surface. I chose this method for the simplicity of not needing a honed bore. There is a dead space compromise but it seems to work. On my next engine I am going to try out diaphragm seals All the best
If you want to try making electricity from it you dont need to put a direct load on the flywheel. if you put magnets on the rim and a frame with magnets you can just turn the flywheel itself into a generator. th-cam.com/video/68FaUhah8TM/w-d-xo.html
ive noticed the engine is much quieter now. very nice
I love that flow meter . 👍👍👍
Nice 👍. I built a Stirling engine for a college project once, made of tin cans and coat hangers. I always wanted to build a big one that could do some work. Very inspiring 👍🔧
Fun project! Thanks for sharing the entire process 😊
It's running great and doing work! Great job!
Shane thanks for sharing this whole series, I've liked every single video! Your pops must be proud. The water hose for cooling is still a bit of a cheat, you could build a closed circuit for the cooling water, with a pump and water to air cooler. At the same time, add an air blower to the furnace to increase temperature. Everything powered by the engine itself of course. I reckon you'd lose some power with a forced water cooling circuit, but you would definitely see an increase in power with a hotter fire. Reduce any metal heat bridges between the hot and cold side (basically bolt mount the regenerator box with cork gaskets on both hot & cold side). Insulate the hot side of the cylinder head too. Create a more aerodynamic regenerator box.
If create a second version, I will watch that series too!
Hi Sam, thanks for the comments, I'll take those into account on the next engine : ). I'm probably going to leave this engine as is now and learn from my mistakes. I'll add the cooling water to the pump circuit so it's self contained👍
That seemed like more than 1/4 hp pumping that much water I think. Nice job i you have done such a great job documenting this build too 👍
Very nice!!! Your efforts are reaching many people. Keep up the good work!
This is awesome. Well done
its cool to see all your path and i think it's a good result, thank you for sharing
Bloody hell, that's faster than I drink cider!
Hi Shane !
So far i'd say your project has the most credibility for a high power sterling engine that i've encountered on you tube so far. There are some very professional looking commercial submissions but all i've seen so far is B.S. and no proof.
I am also working on a high output sterling. It is a 10" (piston) beta configuration oriented vertically with the hot end at the bottom. It is complete and all together but is not self running yet.
A couple things I must comment on. First off your oiler system. I hope you are using a silicone oil for a lubricant as
a petroleum based lube has the possibility of causing a hot end explosion if it vaporizes in the hot end. If you are, consider a blow out plug for safety. Explosions have happened in the past. I am using a 3000 cst silicone lube even though I think silicone oil does not lube as well as petroleum lubes. You can get it from a RC hobby store.
Not sure if you have solved your piston cylinder interface problem. I think the sliding surfaces need to get out of the heat or maybe a graphite contact facing.
Mine's a Beta but my piston cylinder wear ring /piston seal is as follows: wear ring around piston made of rulon/turcite? (teflon impregnated bronze). Piston seal same material but series of holes around top of piston leading to behind seal to pressure actuate it only under gas pressure. Other wise seal is loose fit.
You can make a more effective regenerator if you just get a long strip of metal and fold it like an accordian and
drop it in. Thinner sheet metal is better to a certain point. The goal is surface area of course.
Hi, yes, there are alot of theoretical / project stirling engines floating around the Internet but little hard evidence of engines that run!
I hope you success with your project. 10" is a fair size engine! I can't wait to see it.
I have tried silicon oil but found it to be unsatisfactory (with leather seals anyway!). When it touchs the heater it turns into a crispy mess and mixes with the liquid silicon and creates a paste that binds the seals up. A philips engineer got killed when some oil got inside one of their engines but they are highly pressurised engines. For atmospheric engines it is fairly common practice to use mineral oil, rider, ericson and other 1900 engines. I use oil of paraffin (not paraffin fuel!), it is basically baby oil. I've been running my stirling engine all weekend with 13 other stirlings engines and no-one had any explosions!
Your piston sealing method sounds well thought out. My pistons are the plunger / ram type so are externally sealed against the piston surface. I chose this method for the simplicity of not needing a honed bore. There is a dead space compromise but it seems to work. On my next engine I am going to try out diaphragm seals
All the best
Water to cool the cool side. Water jacket
Your dad must be so proud of you !
I know I am .
If you want to try making electricity from it you dont need to put a direct load on the flywheel. if you put magnets on the rim and a frame with magnets you can just turn the flywheel itself into a generator. th-cam.com/video/68FaUhah8TM/w-d-xo.html
okay is lovely.. now, counterbalance your cranks , may get a little more rpm .. ??
I do have balance plates on the back of those discs (I don't think they are the correct weight now after I've changed the stroke through)
@@ShanePomeroy ahhh good on ya , then :)
hey shane did you know about the p40 stirling engine ?
Yes, I've come across that one