Your videos are the best in content and explanation of any I’ve seen on rod building. Can’t thank you enough! Quality of my rods has really increased due to you tutorials
Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe! There are a bunch of videos on the channel so check them out and let me know if you have questions. Tight wraps!
Just when I think I know the basics I watch your videos and learn something new and better. I was taught to do this with a flat file and they never look good to me I always remove too much from one side which make the thread lay strangely Thanks, for the video. Nice job
You have given the most outstanding technical advice on guide foot shaping I have ever seen! I am still new to rod building, and your presentation was priceless!
Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe! So I get a lot of requests for that very topic...interesting. I have it on the list of videos to make but in the meantime, I typically follow this process: - complete all under wraps with size A thread - finish under wraps with two light coats of finish; let cure for 2 - 3 days - wrap guides on with first coat of thread - size A; finish first coat of thread; let cure for a 1-2 days - wrap second layer of thread over guides - size A; apply final finish coat(s) - may take up to three coats on very large roller guides but usually 1-2 coats is good. Hope this helps.
Hey Nick - thanks for watching! To be honest I don't use many roller guides these days. I build everything - even unlimited class trolling rods and daytime deep drop swordfish rods - with spiral wrapped conventional guides. But the process is basically the same. The only difference is that with really large or heavy duty guides I actually use a low speed bench grinder with a fine stone to grind them. Same process...you just have to use a bigger stone. It would take FOREVER to grind rollers on that little stone I use in this video. But same thing: gently grind and reshape, contour the bottom, and polish them off. A lot of the high quality rollers are already contoured on the bottom, so just remove any burrs you created when shaping. In terms of wrapping rollers I always use underwraps of size A thread. I generally wrap the under wraps and trim bands on each end (and typically something decorative in the middle of the wrap that will show between the guide feet) and finish them with two light coats of finish. After that finish is set I double wrap the guides and finish the guide wraps. Often takes 3 or more light coats to finish those big boys. Hope this makes sense...reach out with questions.
@@masteringrodbuilding thanks again for sharing your wisdom, I really learned a lot from your videos that I would was not aware of with the steps you had taken brought the rod wrapping easier and finished more beautifully. May I ask on the double wraps on the guides foot what size of tread do you recommend and do you apply coat before applying the second wrap? The reason I ask this is have been experiencing treads separating once heavy drags are applied to the tuna rod builds I made.
@@nicklim7905 hmmm...I typically use size A for everything and typically don't coat between overwraps. I'd like to learn more and maybe see some pics. Send me an email at falconerb@yahoo.com and we'll figure it out!
Love your channel - just subscribed ...... would love to see the Forman wrap done and how you epoxy guides in the final stages how many coats and how you complete with nice straight edges. Thanks.
Thanks so much for watching and subscribing! So glad the videos and channel are helpful to you. That’s the point! I have three different epoxy/finishing videos in the works: one on finishing butt wraps, one on finishing guide wraps, and the third on how to avoid/fix/correct the most common finish problems. I’ll try to get them posted soon? Great idea on the Forhan wraps...Rich Forhan is The Man! I can work up a vid on the locking wraps he developed for single foot guides and the spiral guide placement system (aka Revolver Rods) he innovated. Thanks for the great suggestion!
Another awesome video! I have not got into this habit yet but will definitely start on my next set of rods. Can I accomplish this with a small harbor freight bench grinder or can I do it from my apls wrapper?
Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe! You can accomplish this many ways. The challenge is really more about how coarse your grinder wheel is than the method of powering it. Many (most) bench grinders are VERY coarse wheels and relatively high speeds. It is nearly impossible to remove a slight amount of material from a size 6 running guide with a coarse wheel at 2500 RPM. So that's really the thing to watch out for. You do not want to remove too much material nor build up too much heat. So if you can get a fine stone for that small bench grinder (600 - 1000 grit would be ideal) then you'll be fine. Alternately you can chuck something fine into your Alps wrapper chuck and that will work as well...and give you more speed control. Hope this helps...let me know if you have questions. Thanks!
Love the video! Very insightful. I am always up for learning new tips and tricks. My only take away is, if it doesn’t take too much time, to post some links with the materials used for easy finding. Thanks for taking the time to make this video. 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe! It''s actually the power head of a Renzetti Rodbuilding Lathe. I ordered a keyless Jacobs chuck and spindle adapter to replace the stock factory jaws. That way I can quickly swap things out (in this case shank mounted wheels, etc.). I also really like the clean Jacobs type chuck vs. the knuckle buster jaws on a typically 3-jaw lathe chuck. Hope this helps - let me know if you have questions. Thanks!
Bill, I've built couple of rods for myself and friends. I'm interested in learning some of the more simple wraps not quite as in depth as tiger wraps but something to build up to tigers. I would love if you would do a video on something like that. Everyone has to start somewhere but I'm not quite ready to try the more elaborate wraps just yet.
You've got great and informative videos, thanks for sharing your knowledge. Unrelated question but do you have an opinion on spiral wrapping guides on a slow pitch or long fall rod? Most of the shorter slow pitch rods I see are normal, but the long fall factory rods are pretty much always spiral wrapped.
Hello Sergey - thanks for watching. I appreciate the feedback! I spiral wrap SPJ and Long Fall rods 100% of the time - no exceptions. The shortest rods I am building for this application are 6'6" but they get spiral wrapped. I set up all of my SPJ/LF rods to spiral opposite the side of the reel handle (so if you crank right handed I spiral around to the left). I typically use Fuji Double Foot guides starting 16-12-10-8 and then use size 6 running guides out to a size 6 tip. This set up works very well running Accurate Tern and Valiant 300s/500Ns as well as Shimano Ocea Jiggers 1500/2000. Hope this helps - DM me if you have questions. Please like and subscribe! Thanks!
@@masteringrodbuilding That helps a lot, I'll probably end up wrapping a couple of rods just for different applications and I'll go ahead and try spiral wrapping them since the weight savings and stability would be nice to have for the light stuff. Right now I've got a united composites moderate inshore blank that I'll probably cut down to a 7'6 - 7'8 and use it as a long fall rod and then maybe pick up one of the rainshadow 6'6 slow pitch blank for some wider jigs. Haven't decided on the reels yet, I like the valiants a lot but also have been looking towards a siegler sgn or okuma alijos 5n, I've got a couple of chances to decide.
@@MemphisPrime Okay - PM me if you want more details on guide spacing, etc. I'd be interested which UC blanks you like. They make a stellar product but I have had ZERO luck emailing Randy (or anyone else there) to get SPJ recommendations. They are so dialed into the long range SD crowd they are just tone deaf to everyone else. Especially GOM anglers in my personal experience.
@@masteringrodbuilding Thanks, I'll definitely ask questions if and when I need some help. You're pretty much right, Randy is really focused on the San Diego scene and even more than that pretty much the medium to heavy offshore and 9-10ft jig sticks niche. He's a world of knowledge with a lot of professional experience from Seeker, but he has a focus on what he knows and likes doing in general. I've been putting a lot of thought in deciding what to get since he really doesn't have any dedicated spj blanks, but so far I've pretty much only narrowed it down to a UC 711L and UC 711MH in the swim bait series. They are moderate instead of mod/fast or fast like the rest of the blanks in the series so they're a lot more parabolic than most, and more importantly they're 20% thinner being made on a different mandrel. With a few inches off the butt to make it a more normal 7'3 - 7'8 for long fall the MH would probably drop down to around a 15-30 but I might get an L instead after I can pull on one here to see the difference. All of the lure ratings are for casting pretty much so I'd have to figure out a jigging range myself just from feel. As far as dedicated jigging blanks most of what he offers is for large vertical or speed jigging, so it's 6' and below. The Zeus 1 he's got is a 6'2 1-2 PE rated rod but the weight of the blank and a 15lb max drag rating on it makes it seems like kind of a overkill for spj despite the rating, I haven't pulled on the 1 but I've tried the 3 and it is a beast for vertical jigs there's a ton of power in them. The previous owner of UC was an Australian guy so a lot of the blanks that didn't transfer from Graphite USA were designed by him and his team, which basically includes any of the actual composite blanks since GUSA was known for only making straight graphite blanks. The Zeus, the rest of the jigging and the two piece popping and surf blanks they make were basically tailored for the Australian market which at the time didn't do much as far as SPJ. If you have any questions for Randy or anything about their product let me know, I live 5 minutes away from the factory and see him probably 3 times per week when he drops stuff off. I know lots of guys in Texas, Louisianna and Florida fishing the UC's, most of the guys that I've talked to who have been turned towards their blanks and rods end up loving them. But it is mostly oriented to either the heavy trolling, chunking or dropper loop bottom fishing, stuff similar to the San Diego market. They have a pretty wide selection of blanks (at least 300-400) so it's easy to get lost and most of the stuff doesn't get much attention, but I think for the most part there are blanks for most applications.
@@MemphisPrime Yeah...I used to deal with Roy and Megaly back in the day. I'm a huge fan of their products. Randy's take was just like...we make 200+ blanks I bet one of them will work. And he may be right...but I find there is a huge difference in the purpose built rods for these specific, niche techniques. I'm sure he'd be mad if I said 'Aww...ANY rod can be a rail rod!'
Hi, very nice video. I have seen some use Diamond Grinding Wheel. Did you use diamond wheel in the video or what? So far I have used simple abrasive paper in various grits placed on a support and turned on the Chuck of my wood lathe with adjustable speed 300-3000 RPM (I worked about 2000 RPM with 150 and 220 grit) Excellent results with only one step but a long time ... I would like to switch to a diamond wheel, do you recommend it? Which diamond wheel grain? How many RPMs for the first step? I ask this because normal bench grinders work at higher speeds (like 6000 RPM or more) and I would like to upgrade with better times and results. Thanks for reply.
Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe! So...all a diamond wheel is going to do for you is last longer than a stone wheel. A 150 grit diamond wheel will remove material at the same pace as a 150 grit stone wheel. So, the composition of the wheel and the grit are separate questions. I like to turn my wheel (which I believe to be about 220 grit) at 2000 RPM or so. Anything faster than that gets very hot. If you want to speed up the process, you need to either turn faster or go with a more coarse wheel - both of which build heat very quickly. So be careful. On very large guides I will often do some material removal with a bench grinder or a wet grinder designed for sharpening knive (Tormek) and then finish on the small, fine wheel. You just need to be very careful with heat build up as you can ruin the temper of your guide frames. Hope this helps!
Thanks for watching! Yes...that is a Jacobs chuck threaded to fit the headstock threads of the Renzetti. Very, very secure connection and WAY less knuckle busting than the typical 3-jaw chuck it comes with. Please like and subscribe!
@@chriscothren8170 So I found a keyless 1/2" Jacobs Chuck with a 1/2" - 20 threaded mount (vs. a tapered or MT mount). Home Depot has these (but you can find better for cheaper online). I then found an adaptor that matched the Renzetti thread pitch (can't remember it now) to the pitch on the 1/2" keyless Jacobs Chuck. If you Google around you can figure it out. If you have a machine shop in town they can also make you one. You can get a Jacobs Chuck that fits right on the Renzetti headstock threads but I could only find them up to 3/8" capacity and I wanted 1/2". Hope this helps.
Falconer Custom Rods ty will search! Not crazy about renzetti chuck, do mostly heavy rods !like you setup ! Videos explained a lot! Most builders are tight lipped! Don’t want you to learn for fear of acquiring customers! I like many others do it for hobby! My customers amount to wife/son!!
Why do the manufacturer's not do the guides properly in the first place? If it should be done like you say then should then not come from factory properly ground?
Thanks for watching! As for your question, you'd have to ask the manufacturers to be sure. I think it is simply a cost factor. It takes time to get each and every one perfect. Kinda like a fine English bespoke shotgun...every detail finished perfectly by hand and built just for you. But very few are going to pay for that craftsmanship - and the hefty price tag - when you can get a Remington pump at Walmart for $350. And like both of those shotguns will go bang, you can build a perfectly functional rod without shaping your guides. The good manufacturers - like Fuji - have them shaped well enough that you could wrap right them right on. They are also very consistent (like exactly the same) from guide to guide. So with Fuji guides it's not absolutely necessary. Snake Brand snake guides don't require dressing at all. ALPS guides are also very consistent and you could skip it for many of their smaller sizes. But for many manufacturers, the guides are built to a price point and that's it...and it shows. The exhibit a TON of variation. They can't even get them the same...much less right. Could they get everyone exactly right? Certainly...just not sure anyone would pay for it. Hope this helps!
So...first I purchased an adaptor that mounts on my lathe spindle. My lathe is a Renzetti so it's a 3/4 x 16 TPI spindle. I removed the Taig-style 3 jaw chuck from my lathe and screwed the adapter on. The other end of the adaptor has a 1/2 x 20 TPI spindle and I ordered a 1/2 inch capacity hand tightening Jacobs Chuck with a 1/2 x 20 TPI threaded mount. So I just screw the Jacobs Chuck on the adaptor and voila! I honestly can't remember where I purchased my particular pieces...maybe East Tennesee Woodworking? But they are readily available all over. Just make sure you order an adaptor that fits both the lathe you have and the chuck you want to use. I also recommend a high quality Jacobs chuck (the cheaper ones have run out) that has at least a 1/2" capacity. Hope this helps!
Can you list the exact shaping and polishing wheels you use? And where to buy Love the video im new to rod building i see you represents fuji i have a tone of question do you have a email or phone number i can get a hold of you thanks ! Kevin
Unfortunately I can't because they are not made any more...mine are Norton Ultra Fine wheels out of Japan but they are discontinued and I've had no luck finding them since then. I do have alternate suggestions you can find on Amazon however. You can reach me via www.anglersresource.net - thanks!
Your videos are the best in content and explanation of any I’ve seen on rod building. Can’t thank you enough! Quality of my rods has really increased due to you tutorials
Thanks so much for watching - please like and subscribe! I am so glad the videos are helpful...that's what they are for!
Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm doing my first rod build so this is great advice.
Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe! There are a bunch of videos on the channel so check them out and let me know if you have questions. Tight wraps!
This is great! I’m a first time rod builder through PHWFF. Your instruction in this and other video has been insanely helpful, Thank you so much!
You are most welcome. Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe.
Just when I think I know the basics I watch your videos and learn something new and better. I was taught to do this with a flat file and they never look good to me I always remove too much from one side which make the thread lay strangely Thanks, for the video. Nice job
So glad it helps! Let me know what the videos you'd like to see. Thanks Ken!
You have given the most outstanding technical advice on guide foot shaping I have ever seen! I am still new to rod building, and your presentation was priceless!
Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe! And let me know if there are other topics you'd like to see covered. Thanks and tight wraps!
Very nicely done. Would be nice to see how you double wrap guides with an underwrap for heavy duty popping, Jigging and boat rods. Thanks !!
Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe!
So I get a lot of requests for that very topic...interesting. I have it on the list of videos to make but in the meantime, I typically follow this process:
- complete all under wraps with size A thread
- finish under wraps with two light coats of finish; let cure for 2 - 3 days
- wrap guides on with first coat of thread - size A; finish first coat of thread; let cure for a 1-2 days
- wrap second layer of thread over guides - size A; apply final finish coat(s) - may take up to three coats on very large roller guides but usually 1-2 coats is good.
Hope this helps.
Great video, thank you for taking the time to put it together!
In each video I learn something new, a real experience !!!
Very Nice tips, thanks man!!!
Thanks for great tutorial on rod building, learned a lot. Do you have videos on preparing roller guides and wrapping of roller guides?
Hey Nick - thanks for watching! To be honest I don't use many roller guides these days. I build everything - even unlimited class trolling rods and daytime deep drop swordfish rods - with spiral wrapped conventional guides.
But the process is basically the same. The only difference is that with really large or heavy duty guides I actually use a low speed bench grinder with a fine stone to grind them. Same process...you just have to use a bigger stone. It would take FOREVER to grind rollers on that little stone I use in this video. But same thing: gently grind and reshape, contour the bottom, and polish them off. A lot of the high quality rollers are already contoured on the bottom, so just remove any burrs you created when shaping.
In terms of wrapping rollers I always use underwraps of size A thread. I generally wrap the under wraps and trim bands on each end (and typically something decorative in the middle of the wrap that will show between the guide feet) and finish them with two light coats of finish. After that finish is set I double wrap the guides and finish the guide wraps. Often takes 3 or more light coats to finish those big boys. Hope this makes sense...reach out with questions.
@@masteringrodbuilding thanks again for sharing your wisdom, I really learned a lot from your videos that I would was not aware of with the steps you had taken brought the rod wrapping easier and finished more beautifully.
May I ask on the double wraps on the guides foot what size of tread do you recommend and do you apply coat before applying the second wrap? The reason I ask this is have been experiencing treads separating once heavy drags are applied to the tuna rod builds I made.
@@nicklim7905 hmmm...I typically use size A for everything and typically don't coat between overwraps. I'd like to learn more and maybe see some pics. Send me an email at falconerb@yahoo.com and we'll figure it out!
@@masteringrodbuilding got your email address and sent pictures,
Good stuff. Thanks
Love your channel - just subscribed ...... would love to see the Forman wrap done and how you epoxy guides in the final stages how many coats and how you complete with nice straight edges. Thanks.
Thanks so much for watching and subscribing! So glad the videos and channel are helpful to you. That’s the point!
I have three different epoxy/finishing videos in the works: one on finishing butt wraps, one on finishing guide wraps, and the third on how to avoid/fix/correct the most common finish problems. I’ll try to get them posted soon?
Great idea on the Forhan wraps...Rich Forhan is The Man! I can work up a vid on the locking wraps he developed for single foot guides and the spiral guide placement system (aka Revolver Rods) he innovated. Thanks for the great suggestion!
Anne Marlow your guide finish video went up today...please check it out. Will do the Forhan Locking wrap video soon!
Another awesome video! I have not got into this habit yet but will definitely start on my next set of rods. Can I accomplish this with a small harbor freight bench grinder or can I do it from my apls wrapper?
Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe! You can accomplish this many ways. The challenge is really more about how coarse your grinder wheel is than the method of powering it. Many (most) bench grinders are VERY coarse wheels and relatively high speeds. It is nearly impossible to remove a slight amount of material from a size 6 running guide with a coarse wheel at 2500 RPM. So that's really the thing to watch out for. You do not want to remove too much material nor build up too much heat. So if you can get a fine stone for that small bench grinder (600 - 1000 grit would be ideal) then you'll be fine. Alternately you can chuck something fine into your Alps wrapper chuck and that will work as well...and give you more speed control. Hope this helps...let me know if you have questions. Thanks!
Love the video! Very insightful. I am always up for learning new tips and tricks. My only take away is, if it doesn’t take too much time, to post some links with the materials used for easy finding. Thanks for taking the time to make this video. 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Great suggestion Hector - thanks for the feedback. I'll work on it!
Okay - added links. Let me know if they don't work...thanks!
Falconer Custom Rods, fabulous! They all worked. 👍🏽 Thank you.
what is the tool you are using to spin the grinding wheel????
Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe!
It''s actually the power head of a Renzetti Rodbuilding Lathe. I ordered a keyless Jacobs chuck and spindle adapter to replace the stock factory jaws. That way I can quickly swap things out (in this case shank mounted wheels, etc.). I also really like the clean Jacobs type chuck vs. the knuckle buster jaws on a typically 3-jaw lathe chuck.
Hope this helps - let me know if you have questions. Thanks!
Bill, I've built couple of rods for myself and friends. I'm interested in learning some of the more simple wraps not quite as in depth as tiger wraps but something to build up to tigers. I would love if you would do a video on something like that. Everyone has to start somewhere but I'm not quite ready to try the more elaborate wraps just yet.
You've got great and informative videos, thanks for sharing your knowledge. Unrelated question but do you have an opinion on spiral wrapping guides on a slow pitch or long fall rod? Most of the shorter slow pitch rods I see are normal, but the long fall factory rods are pretty much always spiral wrapped.
Hello Sergey - thanks for watching. I appreciate the feedback!
I spiral wrap SPJ and Long Fall rods 100% of the time - no exceptions. The shortest rods I am building for this application are 6'6" but they get spiral wrapped. I set up all of my SPJ/LF rods to spiral opposite the side of the reel handle (so if you crank right handed I spiral around to the left). I typically use Fuji Double Foot guides starting 16-12-10-8 and then use size 6 running guides out to a size 6 tip. This set up works very well running Accurate Tern and Valiant 300s/500Ns as well as Shimano Ocea Jiggers 1500/2000.
Hope this helps - DM me if you have questions. Please like and subscribe! Thanks!
@@masteringrodbuilding That helps a lot, I'll probably end up wrapping a couple of rods just for different applications and I'll go ahead and try spiral wrapping them since the weight savings and stability would be nice to have for the light stuff. Right now I've got a united composites moderate inshore blank that I'll probably cut down to a 7'6 - 7'8 and use it as a long fall rod and then maybe pick up one of the rainshadow 6'6 slow pitch blank for some wider jigs.
Haven't decided on the reels yet, I like the valiants a lot but also have been looking towards a siegler sgn or okuma alijos 5n, I've got a couple of chances to decide.
@@MemphisPrime Okay - PM me if you want more details on guide spacing, etc. I'd be interested which UC blanks you like. They make a stellar product but I have had ZERO luck emailing Randy (or anyone else there) to get SPJ recommendations. They are so dialed into the long range SD crowd they are just tone deaf to everyone else. Especially GOM anglers in my personal experience.
@@masteringrodbuilding Thanks, I'll definitely ask questions if and when I need some help. You're pretty much right, Randy is really focused on the San Diego scene and even more than that pretty much the medium to heavy offshore and 9-10ft jig sticks niche. He's a world of knowledge with a lot of professional experience from Seeker, but he has a focus on what he knows and likes doing in general.
I've been putting a lot of thought in deciding what to get since he really doesn't have any dedicated spj blanks, but so far I've pretty much only narrowed it down to a UC 711L and UC 711MH in the swim bait series. They are moderate instead of mod/fast or fast like the rest of the blanks in the series so they're a lot more parabolic than most, and more importantly they're 20% thinner being made on a different mandrel. With a few inches off the butt to make it a more normal 7'3 - 7'8 for long fall the MH would probably drop down to around a 15-30 but I might get an L instead after I can pull on one here to see the difference. All of the lure ratings are for casting pretty much so I'd have to figure out a jigging range myself just from feel.
As far as dedicated jigging blanks most of what he offers is for large vertical or speed jigging, so it's 6' and below. The Zeus 1 he's got is a 6'2 1-2 PE rated rod but the weight of the blank and a 15lb max drag rating on it makes it seems like kind of a overkill for spj despite the rating, I haven't pulled on the 1 but I've tried the 3 and it is a beast for vertical jigs there's a ton of power in them.
The previous owner of UC was an Australian guy so a lot of the blanks that didn't transfer from Graphite USA were designed by him and his team, which basically includes any of the actual composite blanks since GUSA was known for only making straight graphite blanks. The Zeus, the rest of the jigging and the two piece popping and surf blanks they make were basically tailored for the Australian market which at the time didn't do much as far as SPJ.
If you have any questions for Randy or anything about their product let me know, I live 5 minutes away from the factory and see him probably 3 times per week when he drops stuff off.
I know lots of guys in Texas, Louisianna and Florida fishing the UC's, most of the guys that I've talked to who have been turned towards their blanks and rods end up loving them. But it is mostly oriented to either the heavy trolling, chunking or dropper loop bottom fishing, stuff similar to the San Diego market. They have a pretty wide selection of blanks (at least 300-400) so it's easy to get lost and most of the stuff doesn't get much attention, but I think for the most part there are blanks for most applications.
@@MemphisPrime Yeah...I used to deal with Roy and Megaly back in the day. I'm a huge fan of their products. Randy's take was just like...we make 200+ blanks I bet one of them will work. And he may be right...but I find there is a huge difference in the purpose built rods for these specific, niche techniques. I'm sure he'd be mad if I said 'Aww...ANY rod can be a rail rod!'
Hi, very nice video.
I have seen some use Diamond Grinding Wheel. Did you use diamond wheel in the video or what? So far I have used simple abrasive paper in various grits placed on a support and turned on the Chuck of my wood lathe with adjustable speed 300-3000 RPM (I worked about 2000 RPM with 150 and 220 grit) Excellent results with only one step but a long time ... I would like to switch to a diamond wheel, do you recommend it? Which diamond wheel grain? How many RPMs for the first step? I ask this because normal bench grinders work at higher speeds (like 6000 RPM or more) and I would like to upgrade with better times and results. Thanks for reply.
Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe!
So...all a diamond wheel is going to do for you is last longer than a stone wheel. A 150 grit diamond wheel will remove material at the same pace as a 150 grit stone wheel. So, the composition of the wheel and the grit are separate questions. I like to turn my wheel (which I believe to be about 220 grit) at 2000 RPM or so. Anything faster than that gets very hot.
If you want to speed up the process, you need to either turn faster or go with a more coarse wheel - both of which build heat very quickly. So be careful. On very large guides I will often do some material removal with a bench grinder or a wet grinder designed for sharpening knive (Tormek) and then finish on the small, fine wheel. You just need to be very careful with heat build up as you can ruin the temper of your guide frames. Hope this helps!
Is that drill chuck in a renzetti? Like that
Thanks for watching! Yes...that is a Jacobs chuck threaded to fit the headstock threads of the Renzetti. Very, very secure connection and WAY less knuckle busting than the typical 3-jaw chuck it comes with.
Please like and subscribe!
Falconer Custom Rods did you make it or is available somewhere? Very informative! Guess I missed how you stick guides on the blank???
@@chriscothren8170 So I found a keyless 1/2" Jacobs Chuck with a 1/2" - 20 threaded mount (vs. a tapered or MT mount). Home Depot has these (but you can find better for cheaper online). I then found an adaptor that matched the Renzetti thread pitch (can't remember it now) to the pitch on the 1/2" keyless Jacobs Chuck. If you Google around you can figure it out. If you have a machine shop in town they can also make you one. You can get a Jacobs Chuck that fits right on the Renzetti headstock threads but I could only find them up to 3/8" capacity and I wanted 1/2". Hope this helps.
@@chriscothren8170 Here is where I got the spindle adaptor:
bestwoodtools.stores.yahoo.net/prstspadwith.html
Falconer Custom Rods ty will search! Not crazy about renzetti chuck, do mostly heavy rods !like you setup ! Videos explained a lot! Most builders are tight lipped! Don’t want you to learn for fear of acquiring customers! I like many others do it for hobby! My customers amount to wife/son!!
Nice work.
Why do the manufacturer's not do the guides properly in the first place? If it should be done like you say then should then not come from factory properly ground?
Thanks for watching! As for your question, you'd have to ask the manufacturers to be sure. I think it is simply a cost factor. It takes time to get each and every one perfect. Kinda like a fine English bespoke shotgun...every detail finished perfectly by hand and built just for you. But very few are going to pay for that craftsmanship - and the hefty price tag - when you can get a Remington pump at Walmart for $350.
And like both of those shotguns will go bang, you can build a perfectly functional rod without shaping your guides. The good manufacturers - like Fuji - have them shaped well enough that you could wrap right them right on. They are also very consistent (like exactly the same) from guide to guide. So with Fuji guides it's not absolutely necessary. Snake Brand snake guides don't require dressing at all. ALPS guides are also very consistent and you could skip it for many of their smaller sizes.
But for many manufacturers, the guides are built to a price point and that's it...and it shows. The exhibit a TON of variation. They can't even get them the same...much less right. Could they get everyone exactly right? Certainly...just not sure anyone would pay for it. Hope this helps!
super vid show more please.from bc canada.
Bill where did you get the chuck holding the grinding wheel and how can I purchase one.
So...first I purchased an adaptor that mounts on my lathe spindle. My lathe is a Renzetti so it's a 3/4 x 16 TPI spindle. I removed the Taig-style 3 jaw chuck from my lathe and screwed the adapter on. The other end of the adaptor has a 1/2 x 20 TPI spindle and I ordered a 1/2 inch capacity hand tightening Jacobs Chuck with a 1/2 x 20 TPI threaded mount. So I just screw the Jacobs Chuck on the adaptor and voila! I honestly can't remember where I purchased my particular pieces...maybe East Tennesee Woodworking? But they are readily available all over. Just make sure you order an adaptor that fits both the lathe you have and the chuck you want to use. I also recommend a high quality Jacobs chuck (the cheaper ones have run out) that has at least a 1/2" capacity. Hope this helps!
Thanks so very much much appreciated
@@masteringrodbuildingDo you chuck your blanks into the jacobs chuck?
Can you list the exact shaping and polishing wheels you use? And where to buy Love the video im new to rod building i see you represents fuji i have a tone of question do you have a email or phone number i can get a hold of you thanks !
Kevin
Unfortunately I can't because they are not made any more...mine are Norton Ultra Fine wheels out of Japan but they are discontinued and I've had no luck finding them since then. I do have alternate suggestions you can find on Amazon however. You can reach me via www.anglersresource.net - thanks!