Sail Life - Favorite tools for DIY boat repairs
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2024
- A quick run through of my favorite tools aboard Athena. Thank you so much to all of those who commented on last weekends video. Your support and creativity in finding possible solutions to "the joker" blows me away :)
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A quick run through of my favorite tools aboard Athena. Thank you so much to all of those who commented on last weekends video. Your support and creativity in finding possible solutions to "the joker" blows me away :)
so basically your advertising tools now, ava is money grabbing money hungry, you would have never done a video like this in the past, life is not all about money you know
@max nex my personal opinion
@@TheSailingBrothers Mads buys the vast majority of his tools with his own cash and then takes the time to film & share his honest opinion of them. In my book that's great - other knows when they can save the $$ and when they really need to spend them
& if, as you say, Ava is money grabbing then surely she would NOT have chosen someone who spends most of his income on an old boat!! and happens to live across a continent and an ocean.
I'm afraid whenever I read comments like this, my first reaction is that the poster is envious or jealous for one reason or another, so I check out their channel & content hoping to be proved wrong ... well everyone can do that & come to their own opinion as well
@Luke- You can always change the channel. No one's forcing you to watch...and it's "you're" BTW
@ Luke seems to have an inferiority complex so needs to denigrate others to make himself feel better
You have enough to do, between the new rudder, possibly ripping out the interior, the dodger, binnacle, not to mention all the assembling involved in toerails, jib tracks, stanchions, winches...The list goes on. Why on earth are you casting new cleats? There are dozens of cleats to choose from. One step forward, two steps back...I hope I live long enough to see you sailing Athena.
But nothing more spiffy then casting your own cleats and know you can make your own replacement parts in the future. Perhaps a nifty way to earn some bucks when sailing in paradise for others benefit who find they don't have internet and Amazon is not available.
@@denniscollins2032 Yea, cause casting a cleat is one of those things that often comes up in "paradise"...
If it were me I'd do the same...but I guess thats because I enjoy the process - learning new things, trying new things. I think getting a spiffy boat is only part of the payoff - a large part is in the fun of the process itself.
@@andrewsingleton530 Yea, learning new things is good. But how about this: Buy cleats that will work and install them, go sailing with your lady, and when it's too cold and dark in the winter, you learn how to cast cleats. Then if they work out, replace the ones you already have while you're anchored in a nice bay somewhere...His list is getting longer instead of shorter.
Because it sounds like his friends are going to be casting the cleats anyway, so tagging along on their effort may not cost him nearly as much time as if he were doing it on his own. Plus it will make for a great video that will draw a whole different set of hobbyists to his channel, increasing his views, and probably getting his channel exposure it would not have otherwise gotten. Honestly if his friends are going to be doing it anyway and are willing to let him film, I think it would be pretty foolish of Mads to not take advantage of that.
On my old wooden boat we used what I think were commonly termed ‘Sister’ ribs, just running another rib alongside the first.
Paul Rennie I also gave the same suggestion on the previous video and perhaps if the wood it’s only wet and not rotten it should be ok as it is... more drilling will clear the mind.
Hi Mads, I’m glad you were able to relax in sunny LA... and spiffy deer jammies! 🙈
Dude, you are smart enough to figure out what you want to do about the wet wood. I would replace it in sections, and for some reason I think that's what you are gonna do. More glorious sanding!!!!!!
Wow, the Jammie’s and puffy vest are an, er, “look”. Thanks so much for your hard work all year, a very Happy Christmas to you and Eva.
S/V Sayonara merry Christmas 😂
What a love of a sweetly you have found ! Best of all dreams to both of you !
I just wanted to thank you for all that you do. Your videos bring a smile to my face every week. In fact, I find myself grinning with every "Hey, guys!" You have been a huge inspiration and encouragement to my daughter and me as we set out on our own liveaboard adventure. Your videos are not only fun (yay magic snap!) and spiffy, but really clear and informative. And I deeply admire your commitment to your dream. Thank you for bringing us along on your beautiful journey. Your warm smile, even when things are not going well - especially when things are not going well - helps me keep moving forward during my own setbacks. Thank you so much!
Re. tools, and thinking back to when you had to scrape out your bilge: A 4 foot drill extension with a cup wire brush is a good way to get into nooks in a serious way. Tape it to a piece of pipe for extension.
Re. the radius on your cabin deck corner: Your thoughts will return to that when the wind picks up to over 35 knots and you discover your reefing lines are fowled ;)
The Bosch Rep in my area is sending you a big thank you for that video :D
Have a Merry Christmas together Mads & Ava!
It's not a big problem. Go sailing. Life is about the journey, but you have to take the first step.
Hahaha LOL the sign on the wall with the text "Oh what fresh hell is this? " Is Epic you are the best :-D
Hi Mads! My wife and I are converting a retired school bus into a tiny house on wheels and we have been inspired by your work so much through the process!
One of my favorite power tools was directly inspired by your circular saw. I purchased a 5 3/8" cordless circular saw by Milwaukee and it was absolutely a game-changer! Its small size makes it super easy to handle and on a tiny house, small size is crucial! I now have several power tools in the Milwaukee M12 family and I love them!
some day you will enjoy sailing. but from watching ALL your vids in binge mode I'll take a leap and classify you as the kind of guy who wouldn't enjoy knowing his perfectly functional boat has soggy floors. you love this stuff. you make me angry that you don't get angry. maybe later you scream into your pillow. we will never know. if not you are a saint. tear the boat apart and fix the floors. you know you must do this. if not you'll feel every improvement and upgrade is built on a foundation of sand, thus unrewarding and futile. also, you entertain me, to the point where soon I will feel compelled to support you. nice job. finally, thank you, you inspire me.
As an architect once said to me, "Ask two architects a question and you'll get three answers". Also a shipwright I know can give me a different answer if I wait several weeks between asking the same question. Sorry for your pain, I totally understand. :-)
Mads, the core is structural. As it is plywood (instead of balsa) the core will contribute in both tension and compression stresses.
Normally the applied glass conent is therefore lower (compared to e.g balsa) and in consequense rotten core will reduce hull strength/stiffness.
My advise would be to replace/repair the stringers in the affected areas. Especially in the highloaded areas of the keel & mast support. Scarf in at the good parts, away from the highest loads.
In transverse direction I would scarf to the existing frames (unless soaking wet...) where the are dry and leave the joinery at the sides of the vessel, as the loads will reduce. Where possible you can add additonal layers of glass. The frames over the keel look they could be beefed up a bit...
In addition I would advise to bond new and where possible existing bulkheads to the hull using fillets. This will not only add
Stiffnes to the boat, but will also help you to get rid of sqeeky noises during your oceanpassages.
For more theory you can check e.g the book elements of boatstrength.
Repair method can be found here: epoxyworks.com/index.php/stringer-repairs-in-fiberglass-boats/
Thinking of gutting entire interior and says " think that could be some fun". Bless you cause you are a saint! Far more patient then I am to finish the refit and get in the water. Keep up the good work!
Mads, there are 100 ways to skin the proverbial 'Joker' and as you already know there will be a diff answer from every 3rd shipwright. I would only add that its unlikely in the future to have another opportunity to be where you are right now; on the hard, much of the interior disassembled and cleared out, along with your tools and motivation present. There is no time like the present! If it were me, I'd pass on new plywood and use a higher density core foam followed by a heavy laminate. You have the skills... laminate it and vac bag it. The peace of mind you'll have while sailing on a solid grid below your cabin sole is worth the sweat equity.
Ah good old Force Drive (you dummy) 5.05, that flashed up so quickly I had to pause, play, pause a million times (and I never exaggerate) to see what that subliminal message said. Mads, your extended use of these tools and review gives a very reliable indicator of their worth, good stuff.
Mads - Forgive if you have answered this question before (I am new to the channel!)... Have you ever lived in the USA or the UK? Your skill with English is far beyond what can be typically learned in a textbook or in a classroom; you've achieved the ability to [correctly] use colloquialisms ("Doohickey" LOL) and idioms. Most non-native speakers need years of immersion to acquire this level of proficiency and many still never do. Anyway, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
I'm going to get that Bosch sander to use on my foot callouses.
The double "See Youuu" was sooo perfect !!!
For what it's worth, for the wet ribs and stringers, I would do the following since they are tabbed to the hull and covered with FG. Drill holes along the lengths of each taking care not to drill through the hull. Large enough holes to get to find some dryness. Fill each with acetone it displaces water. Since you can't really use epoxy right now, it will have plenty of time to dry out. Then pour in thin penetrating epoxy in each hole along with a wooden dowel of the right size. Now grind off the bilge paint and make thicker tabs. The strength will really be in the tabs and glass cover on the wooden ribs not the actual wood. Saves you all the work of gutting and redoing all the work you have done so far and will probably be stronger than the original.
thats all true...but tearing the cabin apart to fix it right, is what hes going to do....he wont be able to help himself.......plus...thats more content for him to pass along to us.
Joe, although this seems like a good idea, the acetone is much more volatile at ordinary temperatures than water. That means that the acetone would flash off more quickly than the water leaving the water behind. Additionally, acetone is highly flammable, with an explosive % of 2.6 to 12.8 by volume. Anywhere in this range acetone vapor will explode if exposed to a source of ignition.
Hi Mads: the joist or beam has two parts; tension and compression. The fiberglass, your tension part is fine, the compression part is wet.
Adding glass would increase the compression part. You have eliminated the source of the wetness which means when it dries out it will be stiffer.
Drill holes, let it dry in its own time put more glass on and good to go.
Also, Merry Christmas to you and Ava
John Brown pretty good answer I will suggest first some more drilling to clear the mind and help drying anyway...
What a great channel! I have really been enjoying watching your progress and appreciate the fact that you take the time to do it RIGHT. Welcome to California and please be invited for a Sail aboard my Pearson 36 should you find yourself in San Diego!
I hope you and Ava have a very Marry Christmas together. Also Happy Holidays to all your viewers.
I would be surprised if you didn't choose to rip out everything and build up the floor section completely new. Destroying everything and rebuilding it in a mindnumbingly perfectionist and precise way seems to be your bag. :)
I would never have the patience for that. Kudos.
Mads/ Ava, thanks for shipping my tee shirt and stickers. Funny to see you pack it! Donald in Pennsylvania.
You forgot to mention the very necessary ... vacuum. Also, when I did my refit I found a 1/2" drill very useful.
That vacuum is pretty dang spiffy, it was present in the shots, just the forgotten work horse
@@JimKJeffriesThat vacuum sucks! ;)
I agree with a lot of viewers here. I would dig out the offending material and leave the fiberglass sides in place making a trench out of the stringers. Allow the area to dry then fill the trench with an expanding foam or thickened epoxy. Then fiberglass the area. Though you can not do the repair until spring you can dig out the moist material and allow nature to get started on drying.
That much thickened epoxy is going to be pretty heavy (and expensive) for what strength you get out of it, and using expanding foam would be replacing a structural material (the plywood) with one that doesn't add much strength back at all. Would need to lay up a lot of additional laminate on top of the foam. It would be better to replace any removed plywood with new wood, probably bedded in that thickened epoxy (preferably thickened with something like milled glass fibers). Then add a little laminate mainly to replace what was removed to get the ply out. That will result in the hull retaining weight and stiffness close to what it was originally designed to have.
Netpackrat yup I agree with you but when you cut out the structural parts what will support the frame? .. remember the boat is out of the water and standing on 4 points.. it could be a risk.. build new frame and put it on both sides should remove any possible disaster and it will make the boat even stronger..
Lovely to see you both together.
Have a wonderful Christmas and keep those fantastic vlogs coming.
Take care
Tim
No matter if you are doing projects (we love refit videos- really we do!) or sailing, we look forward to Sunday's new uploads. You might be interested in watching the refit playlist of Sailing FollowtheBoat- I can't believe all the perfect work you have done by yourself- when it takes crews a year for their boat! I am really impressed with your work and dedication! Waiting for my t-shirt and stickers any day!
We love your videos and would like to thank you so much for doing them. We would also like to say Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.🎄
I have been a very good, patient, adult for the last couple of weeks knowing the shirts coming... BUT now I am like the kid who wakes up early Christmas morning and just can't stand the wait. Seeing the shirts being packaged at the end of the video has done nothing for my maturity level :-P
happy holidays Mads & Ava from another frozen winterwondeland, aka Finland. have fun in ´murica :)
Mads, you're such a perfectionist that you probably got a 3D drawing on your computer of Athena new interior already! Those structural members if not attended to will probably stop you from going to sleep, yes mate! I know how you feel! got to be done, so go for it. You've already got all those spiffy tools put them to good use. I bet you know which advice you're going to follow from your last video. Hey Merry Xmas and Happy New Year by the way. you're very entertaining and informative. Great videos!
In thinking about your proposed solutions, my thought is that all 3 are likely correct. From what we have seen of your personality, you will likely choose 3 because of the security of mind in making the boat as "bullet" proof as possible. I don't think the boat is in any danger of structurally failing anytime soon. In order to get the boat live in ready and sail worthy as possible considering you now have a girlfriend I would repair the mushy frames where you clearly had sever water intrusion, seal all the others to prevent future intrusion, and move forward on upgrading the living space. This should last you 20 years at which time I am sure your life will be vastly different and you will have much different plans/needs. We will will be watching regardless, but hope for the day when you will be sailing as that is the ultimate goal! Fairwinds and Following Seas!
Mads and Ava,
Thank you for the tool reviews. Its nice to see reviews from those who use the tools they are talking about and I don't mean just a quick test but for long periods of time in all sorts of situations. Wishing you both and all your subscribers a very joyous Holiday Season wherever you are in the world.
Wishing you both a Merry Christmas and a fruitful New Year. Looking forward to more progress on Athena.
Glad you made it to the US safe and sound, have fun and a merry Christmas to you and Ava
Great stuff thanks for sharing and happy holidays 👍👍
I suggest that a targeted area repair approach will restore structural strength and get you in the water sooner. Identify and determine the moisture level of each stringer, by drilling a core sample with a small hole saw. Each sample can be evaluated for moisture level and integrity. Those stringers wettest and most compromised get a heat mat and dehumidifier treatment, followed by a grid of core drilling and epoxy saturation. Areas with no water penetration can be relaminated and otherwise left alone. THis is a an established technique for wood rot remediation. You could even expect to attract further sponsorship by marine materials manufacturers. Even the punkiest wood can absorb epoxy and gain incredible strength by becoming a saturated matrix. An additional lamination can be applied over the interior hull and stringers, composed of wetted foam and biaxial glass to increase stiffness and strength . Unless you are entirely comfortable with removing all of the interior, and dealing with all of the unforeseen surprises, plus the extended timeline, consider this approach for its many advantages in time, costs, and overall feasibility.
HI Mads, Merry Christmas to you and Ava.
I'd say you're vacuum is the most used! My shirt and stickers are on the way!!
Nice to see you happy together.
Whatever you decide on the stringers, I look forward to the quality content that you consistently deliver. Merry Christmas and a happy New Year.
Hi Mads, you seem very eager to use your new reciprocating saw to demolish the existing grid! I have done exactly that to remove the foundation of my diesel engine. Sawing through a combination of fibreglass and a few centimeters of wood is not funny (with your current saw or a bigger one). The real problem however is that you will not be able to saw the laminate completely flush with the hull. Grinding all the leftover laminate from the hull will be pure hell. Sistering (as proposed by many) is completely acceptable. I have also done that. Sistering 3 keel frames took 3 days, after which my boat was much stronger. Completely removing the foundation of the engine took twice as long (and the dust didn't improve my life expectancy), after which I had ..... well, nothing. Good luck, Karel
Love your trousers, Mads. A merry, merry christmas to both of you ;)
I am glad you showed us that laser measuring device, I am definitely getting one before starting on the head remodel on my boat, have to rebuild the whole thing and add a shower, that is going to be great!
Great tools Mas, thanks for sharing
Thanks for sharing this fantastic video. Merry Christmas to you and aiva
I got my t-shirt and stickeras today! Thank you! I know you didn't make millions from this shirt sale and that it was probably more trouble than glorious sanding so I wanted to express my gratitude for your combined effort. Its cool to know you two sent this stuff out to the fans personally. Merry Christmas. Edit: I almost forgot to mentiont that the packaging was a class act and the contents are "Pretty Dang Spiffy!".
Good one Mads! I've been a carpenter twenty plus years and I like your tool choices! Merry Christmas to you and Ava!
Although I’m not a marine engineer or naval architect this is what I would do to my boat if faced with the “joker”: by removing the top of the stringer you should be able to remove the all the core material (this you knew already). Replace it with a closed cell structural foam of the appropriate density like Divinicell H60 and bond in place with thickened epoxy. Round the edges of the core at the top then fiberglass over the top. Do one stringer at a time. I doubt that you will experience any deformation of the Hull because you currently only have static loads and the verticals of the fiberglass stringer remain intact and tabbed to the hull. A vacuum bag over the top would remove any voids and make the cap to core and cap to vertical very strong.
I agree with Gerald. As long as you can access these stringers, you can refill them, kind of like a dentist drilling and filling a cavity. This is not the end of the world as some have suggested.
I think you two make a great couple. Wish you both a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
I wish you both a wonderful Christmas and a great start of the New Year. Thanks for all the great video's.
Love your videos. A very, very Merry Christmas to you both!
Something for you to think about. Seems almost all modern designers go for the fin keel design. Oh yes people want a faster yacht for sailing the world and many new sailors go for the barge with a stick for more speed and shall I say comfort.
Marry Christmas brother have fun over the holidays and be safe out there.
I loved your power tool overview, but what about your shop vacuum? Maybe include it in a future video! Enjoy your trip to the USA! Merry Christmas!
I would add that some of your most important "tools" are the eye, ear, and lung protection you utilize. While your pants with the built in knee pads may not be a "tool", I'm sure they make your projects a lot easier to accomplish!
Hi Mads, if you give me the outer diameters of your angle grinder and the inner diameter of you vacume hose and a length of both ends, i'll gladly support you with a 3d printed peice that shoud work as a connector.
Sounds like an offer to good to refuse
Ruben Handyman good fellow!!!
I was going to offer to do the same thing!
Happy holidays!
You should include your trousers in your shop as well, they look pretty dang spiffy ^^
Hello Mads and Merry Christmas. I just want to share this little story with you. There’s a gentlemen in the boatyard where I store my boat. He has a 39’ Corbin. His intention was to rebuild it and sail it trans-Atlantic and into the Med. He has been working on it for almost 20 years and is mostly done. The vessel is immaculate. The joinery in the cabin is fabulous. The boat is mostly ready.. When he started, the boat was in decent shape, but he wanted it perfect. He has done that, but he is now in his late 70’s and believes he is too old to fulfill his dream. I know you’re not that old, but I would hate to see you spend all your time working on a boat that, in its present condition, is probably better than most boats people are cruising with. Determine what is really important to you, get those things done and go sailing. Just my opinion. Again, Merry Christmas and happy Holidays.
Suggestion for this video: most probably the wet wood is on top the rotten is below.. drill more holes let it dry.. after take the decision... anyway if after the Christmas holidays you are not feeling too good about the situation you can build a frame beside and on each side of the original one and that will give you the structure to keep the frame and structure in place.. fiberglass the new frame and make sure there is proper drainage. It will be even stronger. The old frame if it’s gone take it out if it’s not just leave it there..
Happy Xmas, and thanks.
Bosch GST 12V-70 jigsaw is one of my favorite power tool .It is compact, precise and effective without annoying power cable. Works also with 10.8 - 12 volts batteries.
Great video, glad you are in LA safe and sound, Merry Christmas to you both. It seems there must be a way to "inject" a substance into those suspect areas to "firm" them up and harden to make them stronger.
How many years do you have? The grid hasn't deformed or shifted, I would think that the cores of the ribs and stingers are only a small part of the strength and could have been foam instead of plywood with maybe thicker glass. I would shave the tops off, gouge out the offending material that you can easily get to, fill with something or maybe nothing and re-glass and tab. I'm guessing most of the moisture is located close the the bilge. I am only assuming that most of the grid is in support of the keel anyway.
JED structural foam ( I don’t think so) needs to be gutted and replaced just Incase he runs into something he wasn’t expecting at sea.
05Cat28 I believe foam is not good enough.. those are structural parts but it can be a different material with similar structural properties
Alessandro Tempo my thinking is that what every the core is as long as it is hydrophobic doesn’t matter. The strength will be in the encapsulation. I think if Mads increases the encapsulation and tabbing thickness it would work to make a very strong box section. Many newer high strength to weight ratio boats use foam cored ribs and runner exclusively. I wouldn’t be surprised if the ply cores lost their hull bond a long time ago.
JED my thoughts exactly, tab it up. Build up the sides, carve out the old core. Find a product that will stabilize the in excess-able core and cap off.
05Cat28 I saw in some other channels is been used some... how you call it? Core... something The same as Mads used for the top.. but I have no idea about structural performance..
I sure you will rebuild all, making sens considering all the rebuilds you have done on athena. and a new interior plan solution is temptation pur. go for it ! will be cool videos too
My 'favorite' tool is my power hammer, but my most commonly used tools are hand files and vises.
Merry Christmas to you both.
You had me worried there for a while. Didn't think we were going to get a video lol.
the man is as regular as the rising Sun
Oliver Lewin im happy with the anticipation but i know what you mean! Hahaha epic community around Athena
@ *James Outerbridge* 😂
Mads you had me concerned, envisioning you being in some Emergency Dept somewhere, your timing is usually more accurate than my watch !!! 😀, another great piece by the way ....
114jen he is been busy ... 🤣 not on DIY stuff I bet!!!
Yay thanks Mads!
cut the wet wood out and leave the glass and do it in sections so the boat does not move or bolt ply wood both sides and glass over them would be faster and not so much wrip out of the boats inside
Bleu Wolf i also suggested a similar approach in the previous video.. it should be good enough and even stronger
That's along the lines of what I'm thinking. One of the primary functions the wooden stringers serve is to simply be a form over which the glass is laid. They certainly can add some rigidity, but the real strength is in the glass. If he were to do as you say Bleu Wolf, and then add a subfloor (bedded in epoxy and tabbed into the stringers on the underside) over the top of the stringers, effectively tying them together, he would have an extremely strong and rigid structure. Obviously he would have to make cutouts in the subfloor not only to tab them to the stringers, but to also provide access to the bilge, but the whole thing would be similar to a monocoque-type construction.
look for a rubber gasket for the dust shroud, is my suggestion, it will make for hooking up several different types of suction devices such as a shop-vac and other doodads.
Rather than removing and replacing the structural members, or trying to scarf in pieces, have you considered laying in new members alongside the existing ones, without removing them? There are epoxy products designed to be injected into wet, rotten wood. That might work to stabilize the existing members. Then lay some new core and laminate alongside, sized to take the required load without depending upon the existing.
Jeff, this is also what I would do if it were my boat. Thanks for saving me the time of writing it out.
Love the pjs lmao merry Christmas
A couple of things...Regarding your bottom stringers, I think a lot of us are pretty sure you are going to take a long way and rebuild the whole lot. I would, however, offer the following alternative.
While the first Boatwright may be a little cavalier about the problem. I think the last Boatwright which was suggesting to rebuild the lot was over the top. IMHO
Why not make an asset out of that liability and make the end result better and stronger than the original.
I would cut the tops off and dig out any rotten wood. After letting the stringers dry, I would fill them with some type of honeycomb or the like and epoxy or glass that in where the wood used to be.
After that, I would glass over the stringers on each side and to the same hight as before to a width that meets your liking.
There is no reason why the stringers could not be wider than before. This will be stronger and avoid any warping or misshaping of the hull. I think that would be a clean professional looking job.
Regarding fitting the bulkheads to the contour of your hull, there is a jig I wished that I had known about when I was building my boats.
Go to "Building SY Mistress" Ep. 21 about 10 min in. He is using what he calls a "Toggle stick".
This is essentially a long triangular piece of scrap wood with jagged teeth of varying sizes.
Youll get the point when you see it. Friggen ingenious!
Lastly, with regards to your tips on sanding, while the new more expensive Net disks are very nice, I would like to point out that most good sandpaper does not wear out as much as it gets clogged.
I used to use leftover urethane from when I was pouring molds. Essentially a big eraser. I think anything like rubber might also do the trick. Just run it on the disc while it is spinning and it takes any clogging material out of the grit.
Have a nice Christmas and a safe trip.
Best to you both.
I guess a couple of other guys had the same Idea on the stringers...should have read the comments first :)
The first one was right do nothing except get the bilge situation piped differently. Go sail.
The shop vac is one if my mostly used tools. For dust or water. .... i added a cyclone and a bucket to my vac to keep the filter from clogging.
Hei Mads!
Det er herlig å se deg jobbe med din motivasjon!
Du skulle sett min båt, alt interiør fjernet og under vannlinjen er full av osmose..
Du motiverer meg til å jobbe på egen båt!
Mads mate, do not gut the boat, just cut the a panel of the fiberglass outer skin side out of each one or two at a time as you go keeping structural integrity . /remove bad areas re core and epoxy fill and re glass ,easy.
I agree with shipwright number 1. The 20 years that it would take the water incursion to become a safety issue is pretty close to the end of usefulness of Athena.
tizwicky I was thinking with the total refit of Athena, she’ll be useful for 50+ more years.
rick frazier Knowing what I know about sailboats another 50 years is wildly optimistic. And for sure I don’t think that Mads will keep it that long. He’s probably going to have 10 new sailboats in that time.
I agree. The hull is probably good for 50 years. This boat isn't some rare, national treasure - it's a stamped-out, plastic, production, cruising sailboat.
it's now 32 years old too. Use it or lose it.
I'd say if he want to sell it again, a proper repair with an equally proper documentation made of that might double (or more) his reselling price, given ANY possible buyer could see in detail what meticulous work he'd done.
There's no reason a GRP hull without fail-prone sandwich core should keep up much much longer than 50 years. Redoing originally bodged and thus today wetted/gone-bad parts would be an essential requirement for that though.
He needs to do more digging before deciding what to do. I agree with #1 but with the caveat that he dries it out. I've seen a lot of the same problem and usually once dry its not as bad as it looks. If that core/stringer was rotten his drill would've sunk in like a sponge. But it didn't, its only wet.
My shirt is on the way. Hooray!
There are ways to fix the stringers without taking everything out, keep researching. Merry Christmas to you both, enjoy LA. Thank You!
3 experts means 4 opinion. At least you have to decide and take the risk of your decision on your book. 😁 Merry xmas and a happy new year Mads to you and your girlfriend in L.A.
Mads, do nothing to the structural membranes. You will be so successful someday you will get another boat and Athena will end up in The Smithsonian next to other classics like the Wright Brother's first airplane. Do nothing, The Smithsonian will still want Athena. ;)
Mads, please do more digging before deciding what to do. Most of what you found is simply wet and not rotten. I've come across it several times and if you dry it and its still bonded then leave it .
But no matter what you need to dig deeper.
Cut the caps off any beams, dig out bad wood, fill with cheapest thickened resin you can find, cap with a couple layers of glass. Will be much stronger, cheaper, and quicker. Just use an auger bit and small electric chainsaw to remove offending wood. It don't have to be pretty, just good enough to get resin in there for structural strength,
Mazda rx7 replace wood with thickened resin or epoxy doesn’t sound the same amount of spiffyness on the equation
@@1977Timp Spifyness?? Lipstick and mascara on a pig is still a pig. Go through many hours and hours if not days of work, striping out everything inside then have to rebuild. Or a few hours work and have something stronger than new and not have to strip/rebuild interior. If he had investigated the stringers/frames before doing the gally and aft cabin work as was suggested when he first got the boat, i would say strip out and rebuild but at this stage dig out old and fill with resin. His grand kids wont ever have to worry about it.
You also have to remember, when removing stringers/frames, the exterior of the boats hull has to be supported in a manner to retain it's shape, $$$$$ custom cradle. This is going to destroy all the bottom work he done this past summer, as holes will have to be drilled through to attach cradle to hull to prevent movement. Nope, he has way too much work into the boat to consider removing stringers/frames. It's like when he put the cabin beams in after he faired the outside, this could have been a big mistake, he got lucked that it didn't show through.
You are on the hard. Side support is from stringrs. Before you cut, can you dry or place another bit of wood next to wet section and bond the two together
Merry Christmas. Safe travels to LA.
Don’t forget the impact driver! I use the default 20v combo kit with drill and impacter. It’s like my briefcase lol
Merry Christmas from Puerto Rico hope to see Athena in carribe waters soon
Nice PJ's 😮
Sail Life PJ's coming soon
Got my “Spiffy” t-shirt. Now I know for sure my wife loves me..
I have been working on our boat prior to cruising next year. I have purchased a lot of tools over the last few years and realised the benefit of purchasing one brand with one type of battery. In my case Makita. I have slowly replaced all my tools including portable dust extraction and vacuum cleaner with there 18v range. This means one battery type to charge and one charger. If only you could still get the electric bikes
Those sundry Battery-powered Bosch tools looks remarkably similar to Milwaukee M-12s. 🇨🇦⛵️