Super detailed Cannon shells for the Airfix 1/24th scale Spitfire MKIX. MJ250 Natural Metal Finish
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 มิ.ย. 2024
- How I made 25 individual cannon shells with a belt for my Airfix Spitfire.
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**Correction to the comments in the video ** The real cannon shell shown in the video is a Hispano round but it's a post war example.
Introduction 00:00:00
Making the tooling 00:02:14
Shaping the shells 00:18:53
Making the Belt links 00:22:25
Conclusions 00:24:22
Very good work ,they look great 👍.
Thank you 🙏
Seeing your detailing blows me away, at 61 yrs old I (after too many ciders) bought this kit, also the Airscale belts and cockpit photo etch to go with it
the last time building kits was in my teens, also got airbrush, compressor, & spray booth, wish me luck
Fantastic 👍be careful with the cockpit pe bulkhead detail as it can cause fit issues. Have fun with the build 😀
I'm impressed! Very nice!
Thanks 😀
Incredible attention to detail. I cant think of any easier way and get the same effect.
Thanks Ricardo 🙏
I am a watchmaker, and if I was making these I would use a combination of your ideas. One, machine the bullet shape in the lathe, cut off slightly long, and Two, use a metal jig like yours to trim to length. Its quicker if the hole in the jig is a bit oversize, as the finished part falls out on its own.
The ammo belt is great. Thanks for sharing
I make my own tools for luthiery and I had a couple similar ideas as well. Even a crimping collar for the casings. His detail looks alive though.
Oh that's interesting. I so wish I had a watch makers lathe or something similar, bu the cost and over complication puts me off. I reckon if I made the little jigs out of metal all would be way better, and as said a little over sized on the holes. Thanks so much for the input
Looking fantastic.
My late Dad was in the Fleet Air Arm too. He was a fitter/mechanic about the same time as your father just as the war was ending.
He worked on the Seafires and Seafurys etc.
Awesome 😀where was he based?
@@RichardsModellingAdventures
Not 100% sure of the name of the base I know it was HMS something as all land bases were. But it was near Portsmouth/Southsea.
My dad was the same, based at Lee-on-Solent (HMS Daedalus) but spent a fair bit of time in Scotland too.
That is obsessive, but the end result is totally realistic, so much better than the plastic.
I have been fascinated by your videos of the silver Spitfire, the metal foiling, the cockpit detail. All amazing.
Thank you so much.
Nick.
Thanks Nick. I’m so happy you're enjoying this somewhat long Spitfire build. Thanks for the input and support 🙏👍
Spectacular result, small as they are, those will make a huge difference to the end result!!
Thanks Mark. I guess all these little details add up
I HAVE A TIP FOR YOU!! Ink pad for rubber stamps and a tiny brush with alcohol for your ID hash on tiny metal parts. It will be semi opaque and at scale.
It's Britain. I am sure the red ink is a little more expensive these days than the black. (please laugh)
This is one of my favorite series on anything, ever. Your attention to every tiny bit. We are the same age, by the way. It is a good place to be for this sort of work. My 30 year old models have excellent exteriors with shaded metalizer panels, but the internal detail look like a 30 year old kid had a date that night. Cheers, Richard!
I’ll have a look into the ink. I can paint them all black or all red, its the lighter colours ( white and like a tan colour) that's proven difficult)So glad your liking this Spitfire build. I hope to get it done before I retire 😂thanks again for the support 🙏
@@RichardsModellingAdventures I feel like I impose by replying. Your time is more valuable than mine! Ok.. white and tan.. leather dyes. Penetrating type only, because the pigments are so fine they tint the liquid. Same thing. Brush and alcohol.
It would be hard at scale to discern, but your work should be displayed with microscopes and big magnifiers. Your wing rework in the new video is HEROIC!
Please, always reply or ask questions. I always make time as this two way interaction is important for us all to learn new things. Thank you for your valuable input
I should add....any lathe will do this job..it does not have to be a watchmakers lathe. But it will be more comfortable on a 3 inch Unimat than on a 15 inch monster!
More comfortable on a 3 inch than a 15 inch monster......that's what she said! 😅
I have considered a small lathe but the cost does not justify how much I would use it really. If I go too complex on how I make things it limits how others can have a go too. Thanks for the input :)
Detailing at its best , can I ask what micro drill you use ? Regards Fred hope you don’t mind me asking as I’m struggling to find a decent one
Hi Fred I’ll get you the model when I’m home this evening 👍ps ask anything you like 😀
Great bit of detail, just wondering, re painting the tips and how the sharpie was rubbing off, what about Mr Hobby or similar etch primer? Brush it on the tips and then use the sharpie. Works for painting PE?
Thanks for this. I'll give the etch primer a go 👍
Instead of cutting two different lengths of brass rod why not just cut the correct total length of the shell required from the thicker brass rod and turn the smaller end down to the diameter required then round off the end.
I have considered this. I just don’t really have the tools to do it accurately though 🤷♂️I could do this with some 1mm rod and turn it down, if I had a decent lathe. I tried it with a file and it was OK but took a very long time. making 25 or so like this put me off pursuing this method any further
There are supererb resin 3d printed option out there on sale now, beats all this work fir no real benifut
Great show me where you can buy 3d printed individual cannon shells in their own belt and ill buy some. The case also needs to be made of brass so they actually look like brass, not paint
Well mate, you’ve done an amazing job with this effort. I’m continually surprised by the ingenuity of modellers on TH-cam when they’re backed into a corner, so to speak. 10/10 here I reckon. As for painting of them, and this’ll probably sound tired to you it now, but get yourself an airbrush. You don’t have to spend a lot of money, the Fengda 183k is almost identical to the Iwata Ecliose. While I do have an Eclipse and have used if for years. Though they’re as good as £200 a pop now - whereas the Fengda FE-183 KIT is £30 box of magic that has at least one BETTER feature than the Iwata!! (The nozzle section is one piece rather than two awkward ones). I thought it’d be crap for £30 but they’re anything but crap, and if you really want to keep it cheap, with a bit of fettling they can be run of a blood pressure meter or a cheapo electric car tyre pump… Tge layers are so thin that they don’t leave tricky marks. Everything becomes so much easier with an airbrush and when I started with ‘em back when tellies were black and white, they even made a bit of an artist out of me because I found it so simple to use. Anyway, amazing work, you’ve definitely earned one more subscriber for your efforts…. me. :) :) Sorry for the essay. I just think what I say above will enhance your abilities to the point you’ll wonder how you ever managed without one. That’s how confident I am in the things :)
Thanks for the input. I have two Harder & Steenbeck airbrushes and a compressor. The head of the cannon shell is 0.8 mm wide and 3mm long. It's hard to appreciate how small these are on video. Paint film adds quite a bit of thickness and looks kinda off, painting white ( the armour piercing rounds are black with a white tip) is the hardest part as are the cream and red HE rounds. Just black or red is doable. I’ll keep experimenting 👍thanks for the input and support, it’s always appreciated 🙏