Convert an old DC loco to DCC (50)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- Installing decoders can vary from simple plug in procedures to very challenging hard wiring projects. In this video I want to share with you the process I followed installing a SoundTraxx Econami PNP decoder in a Stewart F3A diesel that I wrote about in my DCC Corner column in the January 2020 Model Railroader magazine. This is a fairly easy hardwiring project that doesn't require a lot of experience or advanced soldering skills. In the video I used an 11x15mm sugar cube speaker and enclosure from Tony's Trains, 3/32" and 3/64" heat shrink tubing from All Electronics, and the SoundTraxx ECO-PNP diesel decoder. The LEDs are 0805 surface mount golden white with 1000 ohm resistors purchased on eBay. As you can see this is a long video which covers the entire process step by step.
great job, enjoyed watching and learning. old guy, new hobby. confiscated the boys train set from way back. building a layout.
Thank you for making this video! It answers a lot of my DCC questions when it comes to updating to DCC. I think fitting a decoder into my old steam loco is going to be a little tricky, but now I know what I need to do with my older F-series engines.
I need to do a brass steam loco video. I do have one N&W Baby J 4-8-2 that needs a decoder once I finish painting the wheels and frame.
The LED is a good idea. I do prefer the "Warm White" LED over the normal whites. I like my older diesels to look like the have incandescent lamps and not that bright, cold white.
Yes yes more on converting our older locos, please getting back into hobby now its so kool!! DCC++
Hi Larry I sent you a message last night about the screeching trains, well I did what you told me to do on episodes 228 and 229. The trains are working great, thank you so much for your help. 👍👍👍
Great, informative video, especially for an old retread like myself. I too am just getting back into this after many years of absence. Please keep up this great, informative work. Thank you
Very good tip on using the iron to shrink the tube, that beats trying to use a heat gun!.
I just need your patience. I think that is the main ingredient to success in this hobby. Thanks for the tutorial you're amazing!
blows me away every time I see and think of the advancements in this Hobby one more step and realism thank you Larry great article !!!
Thanks for all your help in DCC Larry!
I stumbled on to this very informative and detailed video. I’ve not messed with model trains since I was 10 but I want to play around with my grandson and granddaughter. And for myself of course. These videos will be a great source of info. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for video. It’s been awhile since I last soldered. But I think I can do it. You make it look easy.
Larry had to rewatch..it is that good. :-)
Larry this is great. Could you do a video on converting an old sunset brass steamer with a can motor? I can’t find a video anywhere showing what to do with the motor on mine.
my grandson and I will be converting some of his engines to DCC,,,,this will be very helpful,,,,thanks Larry
I’ll be posting more like this in the not too distant future. I can’t get ahead of the Model Railroader publication schedule.
I always use Dupont connections for wiring to lights. It's a lot easier to remove the shell when you want to detail.
Excellent video very informative im just starting out in model railroading I built my very own 4x8 table
Very informative and clear instructions. I might even be able to do it. Thank you.
I enjoyed watching your video, the old Stewart hobbies and athearn locomotive where good running locomotives, a little noisy but smooth i put no sound decoders(TCS) (Digitaxx)in a few i had, the only thing i found is running whith the newest locomotives like athearn genesis it's difficult to set them in consist. Great Video. 👍
Perfect tutorial! I have a similar non-DCC Stewart Hobbies F7, I'll try to install TCS WOW in it.
So glad I found your channel I'm beginning to understand DCC more and I may try converting some older locomotives. Are there certain brands or styles that cannot be converted? Thank you for the great information.
Any locomotive model can in theory be converted. However some are much easier than others. The newer the model the easier it is likely to be to convert. If a loco model is built with provisions for DCC and sou d it will be easier than one that is not. Also be aware that there can be differences between models of the same loco made by the same company, so check before you buy. For example the DCC model may have a special space for a speaker that is not in the DC version. That is one reason checking magazine products reviews can be important.
Just a great video. Thank you!
well i got 8 old athearns to overhaul :( Great tutorial as always from a great channel......Thanks again!!
Be very careful removing the cover plates on the bottoms of the trucks and the worm gear housing. These may be brittle if old and can break. I have never had one snap but I recently received a comment from someone who did.
Mr. Puckett, thank you for a very interesting video. I am getting back into the hobby after a 50 year hiatus. A lot has
changed since the '70's! I have begun to purchase some locos both DCC equipped and DCC ready. I found your video
to be a very basic (not dumb) and straight forward approach to "modernizing" old units. As I grew up in the Piedmont
of North Carolina, Southern is the base for my Southern Atlantic RR. I appreciate your sharing your knowledge with us
and look forward to your articles in Model Railroader and videos on TH-cam!
North Carolina is a Southern Railway heaven with all the trackage here, new and old. Catching up on new technology can also bring both a lot of fun and some frustration and I hope to increase the former and decrease the latter.
Thanks Larry......great vid! One thing I would do differently, in fixing the LED, I wouldn't use super glue and tape, I would use the adhesive that sets by UV (just like at the dentist) a tiny spot on the LED, hold it in place, and apply the uv mini torch until it's gone hard (no more than 10 secs) . I would do the same with the leads back to the decoder in the inner roof of the shell rather than tape. The glue and torch is available on AMAZON, it's amazing!
I'm jealous of the fact your sound decoder has a powering down sound effect. I just bought an Athearn Genesis GP-38 with a factory installed Tsunami2 decoder, and I've searched the manual and can't find any powering down sound. That sort of kills the realism for me having to cut the sound like turning off a light switch. This is my first DCC locomotive. I just bought it and a Nce power cab system.
Try using F6 on your throttle, that is what does it. It is the same for the Tsunami2 and the Econami that I used in the video. There is also the possibility that function was not,included in the version of the Tsunami 2 decoder installed in your locomotive but I thought that with these newer decoders they did not dumb them down. I’ll try to remember to ask George at Soundtraxx the next time we talk.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks for the reply. According to the book with my loco, F6 and F5 is a lighting effect such as ditch lights if equipped on the proto type. Nothing happens when I press F6 so I assume the gp38 did not have any.
@@TheDCCGuy Ok so I figured out what is going on. The F key functions aren't all the same in my manual as what is shown in the online manuals on the Soundtraxx website. My user manual shows F26 as the +rpm and F27 as the -rpm. I did not know, nor does it state in my manual that if you repeatedly press the F27 passed it's lowest rpm level it does do a shut down sound. I tried that and it works.
Yes, sometimes manufacturers request special remapping of the function keys for their decoders and that sounds like the reason. You can fairly easily remap the keys any way you desire and I’ll add that to the list of topics to cover in a future video. However the Tsunami2 manuals have a pretty good explanation of how to do this. In the video I will probably focus on the DecoderPro approach since it is the easiest way to handle an otherwise complex topic.
@@TheDCCGuy Great. I would like to see that in a video.
I would have to say that the sound speaker you installed sounds really close to the real thing of the F3/F7 engines of the horn and diesel engines
I am just setting up a small DCC layout. I am thankful I found you videos. Incredible. Even explained so I can understand!
I am in North Carolina, so I am very interested in your locomotives with Southern livery and wish to have a Southern layout. Do you know if there there Southern locomotives available? Or livery to modify one? Or do you want to sell you Stewert F3 - Ha?
There are a lot of locos in the Southern green and also the Black paint schemes. Walthers has made them, and Bowser has as well (they own the Stewart line). You can find a lot of the older LifeLike models on eBay too. On the older models,though the axle gears usually have cracked and need replacing. I did a video on how to do that 2-3 years ago so dig way down in the list.
PS: I am in Asheville
Thank you very much for this informative demo sir....from India
Great video Larry. You and I must have been doing our Stewarts (5) at the same time but I only did non sound drop in. I did my light a little different, I copied the original mounting but used a 3mm warm white that I had a bin of, attaching a resistor to the positive and the other end to the board and had to add about 1/2 inch to the negative to reach the board plus heat shrink. The light didn't quite fit the original tube .. almost a little filing of the flange would do it, but I had aluminum tubing that did fit. My Northern Pacific was a high miler and had power pickup trouble and I had read that a little graphite on the end of the axles where the points touch the brass pick up bar helps, and it does. Of course I did this last and if I was to do it again I would start with that and while I had the trucks apart I would replace the wire to the decoder added a KD #450 on the back and away it went... On one other unit I did use an LED like you but used the blue putty to fasten it to the shell so I can remove the shell and the light can be removed easy.
I found some black tack adhesive putty from Uhu a German company on Amazon. I am now just installing the LED on the rear of the lens insert then installing a plug of the Uhu up against it. That prevents the light from filling the cab and provides a nice black background for the LED instead of a blue one.
Great tutorial video. I like to run the wires through the circuit board holes, just my preference. Stewart locos are always a good runner.
I generally do it if I use the black plastic clips off the old circuit boards, but of course the old Stewarts don’t have them. The solder will hold the wire in place no matter which way you do it. And it is a bit fidgety trying to feed the wire up through the hole from beneath the board so I don’t, but everyone should find out which way works best for them.
FIRST THING IS IM LEARNING DISABLE, U MADE IT SO SIMPLE I CAN UNDERSTAND WHAT U DID. I WORK WITH N SCALE SO ITS A LITTLE BIT SMALER. BUT THE PERCEDURE IS THE SAME , I HOPE. DID I ASK U ABOUT TCS ? GREAT VID'S ALWAYS GOOD TO WATCH U WORK.
Excellent video!
One of the reasons you don't need a current keeper is because this loco and most others have 8 wheels with 8 pickups. But you won't get away with it on a 4 wheel switcher and even most 6 wheelers either!. I agree with Brendan, that LED is way too harsh.. Warm white#1..
Hey, Larry. I use graphite powder to lubricate. Oils and grease just gunk up over time. Graphite doesn't have that problem and it's a better lubricant, too. You just have to be *_VERY_* careful when applying it because it has a tendency to get everywhere and it's impossible to get off if you spill some where you don't want it (or just call it "weathering," lol).
I still have my original tube of Kadee graphite-a little goes a long way!
@@TheDCCGuy Oh? I didn't even know Kadee made graphite powder. I used to buy it at Radio Shack, but now I buy it at places like Home Dept and Loews. Yes, a little goes a long way :-)
Graphite is also conductive and will cause electrical shorts.
I really appreciate your going over this in such detail. I have a Bachman GE 44 ton switcher. I found it at a local hobby shop still new in the box. I want to switch it over to dcc. I’m not sure if the motors need to be replaced or not. Any help would be appreciated as I’m not finding a 44 ton switcher in dcc. I am modeling the OL and B short line. They still have the GE 44 ton switcher garaged in Lincoln Nebraska.
It all depends on the age of the model as they have had several versions. The original release had two motors, one in each truck. These were garbage and the motors burned out in no time. Then they came up with a version with a centrally located motor which in my case has held up well. They also did a version with an 8-pin DCC socket and I seem to remember one with a decoder. Which version do you have?
@@TheDCCGuy I have the two motor junk one glad I didn’t spend very much for it. I will have just keep on searching for one.
Here’s a tip. After the first motor burned up and I had already custom painted and detailed the shell, I found one with the single motor and it is still running strong. I was able to swap the shells without any problems. I don’t know about more recent versions though.
@@TheDCCGuy okay thank you is the single motor a 5 pole motor? If so I may have found a DCC ready engine.
I don’t remember, it was several years ago. Most of what Bachmann sells in theUS is 5 pole.
Thx for the video! I'm thinking about getting the Bachmann Santa Fe Flyer so can I do this conversion to make sounds? Also, I'm assuming I can use a Basic 8 controller down the line on this too, right? I'm just looking to get something cheap and similar to what I had when I was a kid.
If the loco has a sound option then you are better off buying it with the decoder installed. It also may have a socket for easy decoder installation in the tender, most do now. I suppose by Basic 8 you mean a throttle with only 8 function keys? If so then yes it should work.
@@TheDCCGuy Thx for replying back so quickly and confirming! I appreciate it and subscribed. Love your channel!
Hi
I’m planning on converting an old athearn Amtrak genesis that needs repair. Once I get a motor for it. I will add a decoder in there
wow great job explaining!
Great tutorial Larry!
Just the video I needed I have a couple of this same engine. This was a great video I did not notice did the moters need to be isolated and if they did how did you do it and or do you have a video on how to do the process in these older Bowser/stewert engines. thank keep the videos coming.
I have never had to isolate these motors. They sit in a plastic cradle and are just wired directly to the circuit board.
@@TheDCCGuy k
Thank you
Larry , in this video you install a decoder in an Stewart F3. I've noticed that you have AThearn F7's in your fleet. Do you know if your old BB Shells will fit onto your Stewart Chassis ?
I have not tired it with Athearn F7 shells but I do know that with Stewart and Intermountain shells it is not easy. It requires some modifications as they use different mounting systems and you have to figure out a way to stabilize the body.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks Larry !
hmm seems I'll have to convert an old New Bright Baltimore and Ohio locomotive (the Royal Blue from 1985) that runs on DC to DCC, and maybe change out some couplers from those hook and look to either truck based knuckle couplers or go for those body mount knuckle couplers.
Hi Larry..can i use this sound traxx decoder in my old bachman diesels? And that will cover drive and sound with speakers, right? I bought all the things you mentioned in one video....capton tape,iphone speakers..and I want to drill and connect red reverse lights in back as I drill or make my own wholes 👍 thanks Larry,joe
I’d be a bit cautious with older locos depending on the age and condition. Which loco is it and how,old is it? Make sure to give it a good cleaning and check the lubrication, get it in good running order on DC. Then check to see how much current it is pulling to ensure it will not exceed what the decoder is rated for. I did a video on how to check the stall current.
@@TheDCCGuy there seriously not that old some 10-most 15 years old AND RARLY USED NOT BEAT UP BUT STRONG POWER I JUST BOUGHT A BACHMANN EMD F7A W/ 8 WHEEL DRIVE DIDN'T RECEIVE YET USED.. IM NOT SURE HOW MANY I HAVE PLUS STEAM THERE IN TRAIN LAYOUT ROOM IN BOXES I DO HAVE ALOT PLUS AMTRAK Ph 42,s I have 2 I need done . ALOTT lol and bought decoder buddys as I watched your video months ago I bought 5-6 pluse iphone speakers... I can't see to find the curved Suger speakers yet for my alco rs 3,s and 2 's I'll pull them out when I'm ready ( if you don't mind) and send a picture of some cause I can't remember half of what they are... Desperate need of help lary , don't want to blow em up...I will lube them most definitely... Again thank you for your feed back way much appreciated, joe
I love your videos keep it up
Dang, Larry, you are good! Por favor, what is the brand of that soldering iron and the tip size?
very good video great job!
Thank you so much for posting!
This was a huge help! Thanks!
Hey Larry... Was wondering if I wanted to add two extra lights can I solder all light wires together? Same with speakers if I wanna run an extra to my B until as I drill holes for wire with connectors?
You can wire them either in series or parallel. I did videos on lights for locos and on speakers and they provide tips on wiring them correctly.
Good presentation! I have a Stewart F7 from the 1990's that I would like to convert to DCC-Sound (with LokSound).
Easy peasy, have at it. You can get the PNP decoder on eBay for about $65. My favorite decoder these days.
Thank you for this terrific and informative video Larry. I came upon it as I was doing some research to determine how to install DCC sound decoders in several old LifeLike Proto 2000 locomotives (two GP7s, a GP9, and a GP30). Your video has increased my enthusiasm for this project. It seems the biggest obstacle to overcome in getting this project going is to figure out how to remove some of the material from the weight inside the locomotive to create a cavity for a speaker. I haven't been able to find any material during my online searches where anyone discusses or demonstrates specifically how to do this. Do you have any thoughts, ideas, or guidance on how to proceed?
I showed how to do the LLGP7 in the April 2020 issue of Model Railroader magazine. I used a Soundtraxx TSU-1100 decoder but the TSU-2200 may fit too but just not as easily. I put a sugar cube speaker in the cab. I love the ones with the round top enclosure designed just for cab installs that Streamlined Backshop sells (www.sbs4dcc.com).
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you for your prompt reply. I dug out my April 2020 issue of MR, which I'd somehow overlooked, and read your article. Terrific! The sugar cube speaker mount from Streamlined Backshop to fit within the curved roof of the cab is ingenious. I have some more research to do, but your article has given me the confidence to move forward with this project.
@@TheDCCGuy I have a question maybe you can help . I have a bunch of old rivarossi ho scale steam I added dcc sound first digitrax they work ok sound not so good . They work with factory motor in all my trains. Well I decided to try xl systems dcc decoder with sound. Now the motors have all been isolated. First one was fine sounds alot better. Second on got damaged now motor is isolated so I thought well apparently when the motor is mounted to casing even though I took out the tap that connects the brush to the motor casing.some how there is some resistance from the caring and one of the motor contacts. I took motor apart and used a very tin washer to go between the brass one and the comuntator side of the motor thinking carbon was making a connection to the brass washer. That worked . Now don't forget the digitrax decoders worked fine it's the xl systems decoders that don't. After I got a new one in with the modified motor it stopped flipping out and I did not toast another one . The thing is the chuffs were not right no matter what cv I changed. I did a motor swap with a motor from China now it chuffs more accurate. Sorry about the long intro . Do you think the xl systems decoders are just very picky . Other than the fact they burn out quickly if there is any path of resistance to the casing. They work well . Why did I have problems with the chuff with old motor. I have another rivarossi with original motor I isolated and used a plastic washer bushing in and that has not issues works great. Any ideas. If any one would know it would be you
Another well done video. Question did it matter which speaker wire was added to the decoder S+ or S- ?
Good question, but in this case it doesn’t matter, and I can’t ever remember seeing any tech specs with sugar cubes designating which contact is positive and negative. It really only matters when you install more than one speaker in the same loco so they are in phase, but even then the actual polarity doesn’t matter. Just make sure you wire them the same. I will do a video on speakers in the future showing how to install multiples and wire them in proper phase, etc.
Not sure what I am doing wrong, but i have blown out about 5 DCCs over the past year. test them and they are fine out of the box, but now they dont work or somewhat work. Rails are correct and the motor is correct.
Are these decoders you installed or did they come in the locos? How do you know they are dead? Have you tried a factory reset?
Up grading from DC to DCC One the motor does no work, another Front Light is on all the time and crazy things like that. I have a decoder tester that I use before installation and when something is wrong.@@TheDCCGuy
Hi Larry, Zak here. I have a question for ya. All my locomotives to date have been dcc on board. Today I received my first dcc ready locomotive that I have purchased. It has an 8 pin socket. This will be my first time buying a decor to install. This engine is just going to be used as an MU engine so it will need just the basic functions (no sound). What would be a good basic decoder to install into this engine that don't cost a lot.
Thank you for your time
Zak-to make it easier to run in a mu consist you really should get a non-sound decoder from the same manufacturer as the one(s) in the other locos in the consist. Although it is possible to mix decoders it takes a lot more work to keep them from fighting one another. If LokSound them buh a LokPilot. If Soundtraxx then get their non-sound decoder, etc.
@@TheDCCGuy it's a soundtraxx in the lead locomotive. That helps me out a lot thank you.
I have an O scale collection. Does your method apply to my scale? Good tutorial. ThnX
What kind of O scale? DC 2 rail or AC 3 rail?
If you use the DAP Blue stick adhesive, make sure you knead it well so it becomes very playable. This is what this blue, yellow, black, etc... stick becomes tacky. The more you knead it, the softer and more adhesive it becomes. Don't just pinch off and stick in as it will eventually dry and fall off.
I’ve come to prefer the black Uhu Tac putty. For one thing it is pretty sticky and since it is black you don’t notice it through a clear lens when the LED is off. However it is difficult to find, I have inly been able to get it on Amazon.
great video larry.glad I found your channel,[I plan on watching this channel for a while] I recently switched to all DCC with my current layout,I have one locomotive that's DCC & sound from the athearn genesis line that has a tsunami 1 sound decoder in it.I also have a handful of athearn bluebox locomotives that I want to convert to DCC,now would these soundtraxx plug and play decoders work on these locomotives too..ps..i'm still learning about the pros and cons of DCC..ty
I have 7 old n gauge locomotives from the late 60's - early 70's that i had as a child that have been sitting for 40+ years . Is it worth trying to get these up and running and converting to dcc or should you just bite the bullet and buy new. I have about 70 cars of rolling stock as well. Looking to get back into the hobby.
I doubt you would be happy with their operation assuming you could get them to run again after this long. The current generation of N scale locos use 5 pole skew wound motors and are designed for ease of decoder installation. I can remember messing around with N scale back in the late 1990s when you still mostly had to shoehorn decoders into the models but a few were just being released that allowed drop in comversion-the difference was like night and day. If you have a few that are of some emotional value then you might try to just get them to run in DC and see how that goes. Good luck.
Very helpful video and you covered the exact issue I am having. I have a .5 watt speaker and the decoder speaker output is 1 watt. I understand your calculations but I am unsure where to set the MAX volume. In your example you set it at 100 but where is this setting? I am a beginner and you videos have been a tremendous help.
I suggest you upgrade to a 1 watt speaker or connect two 0.5 w in series. However you can adjust the max volume down using the master volume CV for your specific decoder brand-check your instructions.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you for your quick reply!
Thank you for the very informative video! I am wanting to convert a couple of old Trix locomotives (2230 and 22401) to DCC with sound. Do you have any recommendations for steam era German locomotives? This is my first time doing anything like this, but excited to dive in!
Wow very informative
How can you tell if a decoder will fit into a locomotive before you order one? For example, I have about 2 SD40's and 2 GP9M's I'd like to convert and an Athern AEM-7. I wouldn't want to waste money on a decoder, but can't afford to just get a whole new fleet of locos at 350 bucks a pop.
You need to pop off the shell and se how much room you have and what provisions there are for installing a decoder and speaker.
Hi Guy, just wondering if this decoder will work in a Kato EMD GP35? Thanks! Enjoyed the video by the way. another question how did you calculate for the speaker watts.
I don’t have a Kato GP35 but if it has a light board similar to this one it should fit. On their web page they give the dimensions for the ECO-PNP and TSU-PNP decoder boards so you should be abled to measure and decide whether it will fit. With a 2 amp rating it certainly has the power. These are now my favorite decoder and I use them in Atlas, Athearn, Stewart, Intermountain locos.
As for speaker wattage, it is usually stamped on the back of the speaker or provided elsewhere, same with the impedance (ohms). Sound decoders also are rated as to their impedance and wattage output, so make sure to match them. I talk about all this in the two videos I did on installing speakers.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you! This was very helpful.
thank you for all the info. i have a technical question. the loco has 12V DC motor. the DCC controller outputs 18V AC. how does that work? does the DCC chip contain a rectifier and a step down to 12V DC?
Yes, there are usually diodes forming a rectifier that converts it to DC. The voltage for HO is usually set at about 14 volts not 18. Internally the decoder uses various components to step it down to the voltage required for each sub circuit..
Would I be able to put a small basic dcc decoder in an n scale bachman 0-6-0 switcher?
Yes, and I’d suggest using one of the decoders that come with the brown out protection since N scale locos can be a little prone to poor power pickup since they are so light.
@@TheDCCGuy thanks man your channel rocks!
A great tutorial. I suscribe to your channel. Greetings from Belgium :)
Hi. Just curious, can I pay you to do this if I sent you train that I wanted to be converted from DC to DCC could you do it send it back when it's completed? Or do you not work on other people's trains?
I’m sorry bit I just don’t have time to offer that service. I suggest you contact Tony’s Train or Litchfield Station as they used to do DCC conversions.
@@TheDCCGuy I understand. Thank you for the recommendations! I am new to model trains and still trying to figure things out. Do you have to have certain tracks for a dcc train to run on?
No, tracks are tracks, rails are rails. Get a copy of my book “Wiring Your Model Railroad” from the Kalmbach book store website or Amazon.
you did not explain the speaker wire + or - . which one is which coming off the speaker, or doesn't it matter?
Watch my videos on speakers, #57 & 58.
@LarryPuckett White Teflon Grease is plastic-compatible, I presume? If so, then where can I get some?
Buy the stuff sold at local hobby shops or order through a Walthers dealer. That way you get the stuff made for models and know it is plastic compatible.
Finally at 6:15 you zoomed in enough for me to see what you were doing.
We’re getting better at this. Unfortunately I have to do the on-camera work and at the same time work the camera angles. Maybe I should teach my wife to do the camera work, but she’d probably want me to pay her!
Larry can Bachmann Spectrum N Scale 2-8-0 CONSOLIDATION Steam Locomotive Seaboard #916 be fitted with a DCC decoder?? If so, what do recommend?
I went on eBay and looked for the led light you referenced but none show up. Do you have any other info to search on for the lights?
And I found all kinds of them like this www.ebay.com/itm/263224521440?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3d496772e0:g:YqMAAOSwYZZZ3ypj&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsStdebXPz4ZTXCT8FI9kPBh2ZJxI6hAJn0oA2dBvImVRSp0LYiQNOHXkGv8aei6G3hDNM7%252FaA117bEoAboOYzcOhepWsrXvOvRgf6CrmTS%252FKNNSQxDNKv%252FV0Hhp9i%252F6DuZKjldlTHChhwJpU71K4M3HEO3vDtdly6tCUsV9oMu5bQ%252B2WPD%252BilSLYN9vPrXRYsBEdfkOairu8hNkb08IszDhlQa3vtLaLWNOIPD24vHAXPfHWH6%252FTBBYGpNlDCHWbJ%252BOtdh9ILKMLd5e44tzZbgHME757DuElZE63BWoHWgBTodC%252Bo6a8umu2XMuEbW3bUSl0Wwof0VndamdmM2m4BoiMmnp15EYv%252Bjlq%252FX4Zxu0RSCwaJmbaBrpBAbza5B6FWI%252FKOnjVIlSkKkNhnfmySfl3rxNVl%252FB0cNFR21gEwXVHwGVun7hxOVdbbRFUcVdJzJZKLPS9pY7pj9bNQ9LrByVxS1dqVsQDBLwCGWOoObUkguyKWhL3RuIIYndQ62v8ya3J7nr8joyM7Cbs2djT1xnRwIth7xPEAdKM2N36bXRFwx4hH7r9vctGpwzjZcoLiIoQP0TxcfcyskaeG%252FGVa8P8Wa2oVIGmpkebbU%252F8cWXl%252BdbCQhHxqd9dK4wsYt2oobOK7PRvjmCNYpFZjvI7jWe7Yv7o5x9GcfYrye9Casa7yGeKBOd1f85hJgJstNNbYi3yhKf7Qr83Q30Yu9J6iTwLf3oQQ0ZzS%252Bo1YyhGGlALtr2TibsS0vjd3MrbD1ZFXW66eYK4S0F2wgjxdqWYMbxIJxjjOffg22oHkp87E5izYHUbWZllZYxaQakj2XC9JD1wV8trl6NBKUI7hyLTo5fw%253D%253D%7Cclp%3A2334524%7Ctkp%3ABFBMxryu6qlf
Would a butt splice work instead of soldering the wires together?
If you mean using a butt splice connector I think the main issue would be the size of the connectors. Working with N scale is usually a matter of trying to squeeze everything in.
@@TheDCCGuy thank you
What model/make decoder do you use?
I use a lot of SoundTraxx Econami PNP decoders.
Hi Larry. Many thanks for your instructions. Quick comment, I looked on eBay for the surface mount 0805 LED using your details. However I could not find "golden white" , pre-wired with a 1000 ohm resistor. It would be helpful if you could either provide the vendor name or eBay link URL directly tp the product.
Again thank you, the instructions are perfect!
Here is the listing title: L0805GW 20pcs Pre Wired GOLDEN White SMD 0805 Led Lamp Light Set 12V ~ 18V
and the url: www.ebay.com/itm/L0805GW-20pcs-Pre-Wired-GOLDEN-White-SMD-0805-Led-Lamp-Light-Set-12V-18V-NEW/263224521440?epid=1731872038&hash=item3d496772e0:g:YqMAAOSwYZZZ3ypj
Barry Snyder 0
Greetings Larry! After ordering all the parts for this project and following your instructions the first of 3 Bowser/Stewart F units has been converted to DCC and fabulous sound. I want to thank you for the easy to follow steps and your relaxed "you can do it" process.
Larry, I'm not sure how I originally discovered your Channel, but I'm certainly glad I did find it... I'm returning to the hobby after a 40+ year absence and boy have things changed, for the better I might add, but I'm glad to see Kadee #5 couplers and metal wheel axle sets are still the Gold Standard... I'm very interested in DCC and Sound for older Locomotives, both Steam and Diesel and really want to covert my units , if that is possible, but everything I have is from the mid to late '70s and am having trouble finding any information on such units, especially Hobbytown of Boston flywheel drives for Diesels and Bowser Manufacturing Steam Locomotive Kits, as well as a couple of Athearn Blue Box Diesels... do you, perhaps, have your own website where I could contact you?... Please keep up the great work and keep these wonderful videos coming...
Hobbytown was still manufacturing a decade ago after someone in Florida bought them but I haven’t seen any of their stuff in years. Bowser has been selling off all their old parts so you might check their website to see what might still be available. I have one video here on converting a BB diesel but you’ll need to find dealers who stock Athearn parts for replacements. One tip-LifeLike Proto 2000 parts fit old Athearn models, it is almost as though they sent an old F7 to China and told them to copy the drive system. You might try contacting Rick Bell at dccinstalls.com (dccinstallssales@aol.com) as he used to carry Athearn parts. I don’t know if Athearn sells upgrade kits or not. Your best be may be to find a recent model at a train show (once we can do those again) and swap shells-it may be cheaper than trying to upgrade an old one.
@@TheDCCGuy Yes, I'm aware...I've subscribed to both their newsletters, over a month ago, but haven't seen any newsletters, yet...I cant remember, right this second, if I got confirmations from them or not... I can tell you that someone in New Jersey owned Hobbytown as of 2017 but they were running it as a night job and haven't updated their website since then... I guess my real question is this: In your opinion, can I add DCC and/or Sound to this old units?
It depends. I have an old Hobbytown E6 but I long ago put in on an old Model Power E unit chassis and repowered it with a high efficiency can motor so was able to put a decoder in it. If you have an old open frame 3 pole motor in it then it might cost more to find and install a suitable motor than to just purchase a new loco. If you have a sentimental attachment then cost may not matter. Check the Walthers online catalog for suitable motor and drive train parts.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank Your, Larry...You are right, very sentimental about this one... it was the first non out of the box Locomotive I ever attempted and it got rave reviews for all my Model Railroading friends, at that time... Guess I'll have to just keep on researching and see where it goes...
The Stewart F3a has pop out solid number boards. I'm checking with Bowser to see if they have replacement clear. If I make these work can I Light both of them and headlight with 3 smd and if I can do I wire them in series or parallel?
I looked into doing this once and figured you could just replace the insert with clear styrene cut to shape. Also some companies used to sell brass casting numberboards that were hollow. Don’t know if they are still out there but the Walthers catalog/website might have them if they are. I would wire them in parallel but watch that the combined milliamps don’t exceed your decoder limitation for each function. You also could put the numberboard LEDs on different function.
which sound decoder works for athearn blue box switchers....? thx great videos first time ddc'er
I’ll have to add that to my list of decoder installs. It can be complicated since it requires isolating the motor fro the frame. There should be plenty of room in there a d my July DCC Corner column looks at installing one in an Atlas S2. Of course each Athearn switcher is a little different and some have more room than others. Age is also a factor since newer motors draw less current than older ones. Which one are you looking at doing and how old is it?
@@TheDCCGuy hasn't got here yet...i'll get back when it does thx much
@@TheDCCGuy yes it has the older fat gray motor...which draws too much amperage....i'll have to remotor or ...get a loco fully equipped.....thx for helpin out.
@@TheDCCGuy will that be one of the older Atlas/Roco S2's? I have a pair of those I'd love to add sound too. Looking forward to that video!
Yes, made in Austria but with the 5 pole skewed motor. Runs great now but the whine of the turbocharger drives me up a wall. I think I might try using the sound project of the Alco 539 prime mover that was used in the S1/3 switchers-those were not turbocharged.
just posted a bunch of new comments about my similar DCC conversion project!
Can't find those comments anywhere now😢
I don’t see them either so I guess TH-cam had a hiccup. There are a couple under your comment to video #322, are those the ones?
stuck part of it (video link) above.
(I'm SO confused)
Hi, can you give any advice on converting a class 37 Hornby triang R751? Only 2 wires going to the rear bogie so not sure where to wire the 4 wires.any help would be really appreciated, thanks in advance
Terry, sound like the two wires are track power pickups that run to your motor? If that is the case, and you can test that with a voltmeter, then the red and black decoder wires go to the track wires and the orange and grey wires go the the motor. Make sure to check the current draw of the motor first as older locos can pull a lot pf current and kill an undersized decoder. See my videos on using voltmeters and checking motor stall current.
Hi my friend great channel
I was wondering if you would be able to help out regarding converting an old locomotive to Dcc please ?
Feel free to ask your question here.
Hi my friend
Sorry to take so long to get back to you
Regarding my question i have for you is i have myself an old tyco steam locomotive that has what i think they call a pancake moter in it an i was wondering if it is possible to fit a dcc decoder in it ?
Look forward to hearing from you
Gavin from Australia
Hi my friend
Look forward to hearing from you please
16:12 Larry !! No-No using Xuron Rail Nippers for wire cutters !! Well, that's what they look to be...!
The reason be, they begin to cut rail (btw: always top to bottom/flat side of jaws faces good rail) poorer and poorer.
But nice Vid anyway...I might do that to a DC, HO, [LifeLike" ?] RDC one day, or, Atlas S4....
Love "the Current Keeper" ! One day, just like finally getting low flanges and knuckle couplers the standard, I believe Keep Alive will become common issue in loco making/labeling and sales. I'd happily pay, say $25 more knowing it's all there and done for me, with warranties/support !!
Seems like a natural next sea change, after DCC itself grew so big, for the hobby.......
And MAN do I hate stall-outs !!! No more jitters and cussing over small dirt and dead frogs !!!
Thanks, M
Do you have a video showing the same process to install a sound decoder in a Life-Like Proto 2000 EMD E8 A unit ?
Not yet, but I have about 6 that need decoders so I’ll eventually get there. I did do an article in the July 2017 MR which should be essentially the same process.
What temperature do you like to use soldering on decoders? and is the wire splices the same solder temperature? Thanks
The best temp varies depending on the heat sensitivity of the component being soldered, the type of solder, size of the components being soldered, and size of the iron tip being used. Solder melts at between 354 and nearly 600 degrees F. So you need to know the melting point of your solder. Larger pieces of metal will absorb and conduct heat away more readily than small circuit traces. Small round pointed iron tips are more inefficient at applying heat than larger flat ones. So what I recommend is to practice your soldering and get a feel for how these variables interact. Start at a temp greater than the melting point of your solder say 500 degrees on average and go up or down from there. For circuit board solder pads I typically go with 600 degrees with 60:40 or 63:37 solder. This allows me to quickly make a solder joint without overheating components or traces. And that is a concern since some circuit traces will lift if overheated. The good thing about circuit boards is the solder tabs are usually located far enough away from the components to limit damage but the traces are still a concern. So I cannot give you the best temperature for you to use, it really is something that comes from experience so get out some scrap parts, and scrap circuit boards, and practice.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you I'll be working on that thanks for the advice. Who prints your book now is it Railroad Model Craftsman or Model Railroader? Thanks again
My old “Practical Guide to DCC” was purchased by White River Publications when they bought RMC. They still have a few copies for sale but it is getting a bit old now so it is very unlikely it will ever be reprinted. I have done 3 books fro Kalmbach and they are still available on their website as well as Amazon. You can find direct links to these on my website www.dccguy.com .
I would like to convert some of my locomotives to DCC, however If I wanted to I would like to reverse the change easily as the locomotives I have are originally my Uncle's that I inherited. So I am kind of in this odd in between where I want to do it but can't due to sentimental value.
That’s a tough one. In the past I have saved things like the original motors in the case of brass models so if someone wants them they’re there. In the case of plastic models I never think of the guts as anything special just the exterior so for me I would just do it. Reverting to DC can be easy or difficult depending on the model. You are the only one who can decide just how far to go. One thing to keep in mind is the old saying about steam
locomotives-on most of them the only thing original is the space between the wheels and sometimes even that was changed over the years!
At about 32:30, I noticed when you went into reverse the headlight turned off. Would a real diesel's headlight turn off in reverse mode? There are quite a few terminals on the side of the board. Are these used for other loco functions and what would they include? I've seen real locos and their headlights 'rotate'. Any way to duplicate this feature?
No that is just one of the automatic features. On real locos they had switches to turn everything on and off and the crews had to do that themselves. Early DCC decoders generally had autoreversing headlights then later manufacturers started offering individual function controls. These still can be useful as operators often depend on the headlight to know which direction the loco will move so practicality wins out over prototypical operations. One thing I do turn off is the auto horn/whistle function that blows every time you change direction.
How did you know the motor was isolated?
Good question. In this case I have done tons of these so I knew it from experience. However if the manufacturer does not say up front that it is DCC ready or compatible then a test or visual inspection is required. If the motor is held in a plastic cradle and the wires come directly from the track pickups to the motor brushes then there will be no contact with the frame and it is isolated. Be aware that even a metal mounting screw run through the chassis into the metal case of the motor may create a short. In these cases you can usually use a nylon or plastic screw as a replacement or just use silicone sealant to hold it in place-I have done that with old Athearn motors in some cases. Many models like the older Athearn, LifeLike, Atlas, and brass models often used the frame as one part of the electrical pathway. The easiest way to test for this is to set a multimeter to the resistance option and connect one contact to the motor brush and the other to the chassis and check for continuity. If you get continuity with either brush then it is not isolated. Read your manual to see how your meter does continuity. The good thing is most modern locos are DCC ready and the manufacturers now specify this.
I have several locomotives I wish to convert to DCC, does it matter which decoders I use? Also how do I choose a controller? Thanks in advance.
You can use any brand as long as they are rated high enough to carry the load. As for choosing a DCC system there are a couple of videos here on that topic.
Thank you for this video! Between this and your DCC Corner article, I was able to install a DCC sound decoder in my older Stewart F3 locomotive. I do have a question about the mini connectors used in some manufacturers' speaker connecting system seen in some of your other videos. What is the actual name of the connectors besides "JST"? Is it JST1.0 mm, 1.5mm or other? What is your source for these connectors that would be more affordable then buying wiring harnesses from the decoder manufacturers? Are these connectors model railroading/DCC specific?
I have had wires pull out of several connectors when unplugging them and I hate to have to buy whole, new harnesses. Thanks again.
The ones I use come from TCS but some other manufacturers make similar ones. The TCS website is www.tcsdcc.com .
I have two old Roundhouse 42 ton two truck Shays, can they be converted to DCC?
I have one of those around here too and the biggest issue would be finding a place for a decoder and speaker. Mine never was a good runner and I bet it hasn’t turned a wheel in 20+ years. One option would be to find one of the extra tenders and use that for the decoder and speaker. I have a friend who has one of the Bachmann Shays with a sound decoder and it runs very well.
@@TheDCCGuy I'm getting back into the hobby. My dad and I started a logging layout back in the late 70s. This DCC thing is all new to me. I did pick up a Bachmann Spectrum 70 ton three truck Climax (DCC) new in the box, but I think I will have add sound. Looked at the new Shays $1,100 ouch. This hobby has gotten expensive. Thanks for the reply.
How do you know which one is positive?
Do you mean the motor contacts?
Hi Larry, I am having a bit of a puzzle. I have a 6 pin decoder socket in my loco and want to fit a sound decoder which is an 8 pin. I have seen many leads that convert 6 to 8 but the plugs are the wrong way round, ie the 8 pin is the male and I need the female so I can plug in the 8 pin decoder. Any help please. Many Thanks Chris
I have not seen that type converter harness. Your best bet ls to simply cut the 8 pin plug off and install a 6 pin in its place. Or you could remove the socket and hard wire the decoder to the existing wires.
Is there a decoder you recommend for a narrow steam locomotive? I have a DC Rivarossi Southern Pacific 2-8-2 and a Bachmann Union Pacific 4-8-4, both HO scale?
The first question is how old are these a d are they DCC ready? Then what is the stall current of each? I would hazard a guess that you should have no problems putting a decoder in each of these particular in the tenders. I installed a TSC WOWSound decoder in the tender of a Bachmann 4-8-2 last year without any problems,
.
@@TheDCCGuy I do not know the age of either, all I know is they are DC locomotives.
Hello Mr Puckett I enjoy your videos but to tell you the truth most of your subjects goes over my head but I'm trying to learn as I go along. Can any of your subjects be transferred to O-Gauge Railroad? Are you familiar with NCE Power Pro Cab 2 a Arduino Block Signal System for DCC? If so can that type of System work with O-Gauge Locomotives?
Finally if you are familiar with the subjects I asked you can you Please do a Video using O-Gauge Locomotives?
Thank you for your time
Sincerely
Allan
First, are you using 3-rail O or scale 2 rail with DC motors? I know that the NCE system works with O scale since Jim Scorse, the owner/designer of NCE is an O scale modeler himself so it is designed to work with his locos. That’s about as far as I go with O scale, haven’t run one since I was a kid.
Hello Mr Puckett to answer your question I run 3-Rail O-Gauge Trains that's all I've ever owned. So I gathered that NCE only caterers to high end 2 and 3 Rail Locomotives. Well thank you for your help
Sincerely
Allan
I have 3 Bachman f-9 locomotives that were made back in the early 90's, would like to convert to dcc, how do i do this,
Allen, sorry but I have few Bachmann diesel models and am not familiar with that particular one. However, TCS has an excellent step by step guide to installing a DCC decoder in that model. Here is a link to their website with the tutorial:
tcsdcc.com/installation/ho-scale/1211
I forgot to mention these are n scale
Ok, I suggest you check with Digitrax and TCS as they produce a lot of drop on decoders for N-scale locos.
Ok, but they did not have dcc when these were made
I wasn't able to find the SMD Warm White LED's with resisters for anything like that price. Any link?
I may have misquoted the price. I went back and found the purchase which cost $13.99 for 20. There are others for as little as $10.99. The link is www.ebay.com/itm/L0805GW-20pcs-Pre-Wired-GOLDEN-White-SMD-0805-Led-Lamp-Light-Set-12V-18V-NEW/263224521440?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
will this work on n scale also
It depends on the loco. Most now are designed for a drop in decoder installation so should actually be easier. Only older N scale locos would need a hard wired job.
How would you light # boards?
If they are a one piece casting then you can just light them off the headlight as most manufacturers do. If you want them independent of the headlight then carefully separate the clear number board casting from the headlight insert and paint the sides of each black to prevent bleed through from adjacent lights. Then attach a tiny SMD LED to the back of the numboards and headlight castings. See my video on using LEDs for lighting locos.
Now if the number board is a dummy and cast in to the shell then it is more complicated. You have to carve out the center of the number boards, install a clear styrene “lens”, and light from the rear using the small LEDs.
You do realize that though it is a Stewart Loco... it is a KATO drive right?