I'm not into 2 strokes but mad respect for you. This is how guys used to do stuff before we could pick up a catalog or google parts. Back before there were hot rod parts for everything. It's good to see people that know how to use their heads and hands for something besides playing games on a cellphone.
I've found that wrapping a piece of tape around the drill bit so that the bottom edge forms the depth limit makes for a much easier to see reference line than a sharpie mark.
Great video! I feel way better about wanting to do this kind of work on my own. Demonstrating that craftsmanship still has a place in mechanical work is inspiring and much appreciated to make the task seem less-daunting.
Small tip, instead of welding the slugs, sliver solder them. So much cleaner and post operation is just a wire brush. Recovering the slugs in the future is just as easy, heat up the area to melt the silver and they just drop out. Cheap too! Silver solder is rated to 70,000 psi, same as ER70 mig welding.
Great job! Something to be aware of is the flex of the drill press table when you bear down on it. You do amazing things with the tools you use, its why I watch, your tolerances are top notch. Watch your videos from the side drilling and you will see what I mean. I have no good solution but only point it out in case you are not aware of it. Your results are excellent and the balance on that crankshaft impressive. I look forward to your next video.
+upside downdog Thanks! I'm aware of it. It looks worse than it is tho, most of the flex is the whole machine, not between the table and spindle. When I need things to be really straight I support the table with a jack.
Thank you very much. The videos are educational and really well filmed. I think you manage to accomplish miracles working with what you have. And also, I really like your Swedish accent! "Man tager vad man haver". The best of luck to you and keep it up!
interesting video! Thanks for posting it. Two affordable tips: Especially since you use a drill press, get a set of machinists "center drills" to start your holes. They are much more accurate than twist drills for that task. They are also countersinks and they work in hand drills. You'll never want to start a hole with a twist drill again. They aren't expensive and make life easy! Machinists use them because they don't "walk" when drilling anything from sheet metal to heavy stock. If you need more usable depth in future blind holes, you can drill then finish with a "center cut" end mill. Individual milling cutters are reasonable online.
Removing spatter with a wood chisel... I thought I was the only one, lol! Masonry bits on hard plate is also one of my tricks, though I learned it for drilling safes (legally, of course). Wish I could subscribe twice now, lol.
Hello, I'm on my daughter's TH-cam account. I saw your video for figuring out a balance factor. I applied that to my 11 vertical Briggs & Stratton engine. The counterbalance was bad so I tried to rebalance it without the counterbalance. It's not perfect, but I'm happy with it for my first attempt. I just wanted to mention an idea that might make things easier for when you drill holes for the tungsten metal. Maybe you already are doing this, but just in case you aren't. When you make your punch marks on the one side of the crank to drill, how about using an 1/8" drill and drill a pilot hole all the way through both webs at the same time. Just so there's no confusion, let's say you mark the flywheel side of the crank web. Now you install the crank in your drill press and drill the pilot holes. While leaving the flywheel side up, keep drilling through the flywheel side and into the clutch side of the crank web. It's such a small hole that I wouldn't think it would goof up your weight set up, you may need to ad a couple millimeters longer tungsten metal to counterbalance the 1/8" hole. You can still drill so far with the correct size drill bit so your tungsten metal won't go through hitting the crank. But the main thing is this way you only have to do the careful measuring and marking on just one side of the crank. Once you made your pilot holes, you can drill your bigger holes on the one side then flip the crank to drill the bigger holes on the other side.
Great work! Can't wait to see the scooter up and running again. Strange fact, we have the same name and I also use a flux core welder for many more things than I should.
This is realy cool, although i won't do that with my own Cranks, we have an Enginebuilder in the next town witch did this for me a couple of times now.
If you want a flat bottom in the hole you can first use a drill to make a shallow hole. Then use the walls to guide a endmill down. Might work... When I do it I use a slightly sturdier drillpress/mill. Great work however! :D
+Doktor Jönsson Thanks! Was thinking of doing it that way, but was impossible in this situation cause the chuck would've hit the crank with a normal length endmill and I don't own any special long one's. If only I had a lathe I could have made an extension. One day!
I can see the table on your drill press deflecting downward when you put pressure on the bit... I use a scissor jack from a car under mine to help minimize that.. now the head of the drill press pushes UP.. lol..
dont take this the wrong way but with all the other machining channels out there ive been losing hope that i will ever be able to afford to make nice things myself due to all the tools needed to achieve precision. but with your channel its like the oppisite sometimes, you teach how to be as unpresise as possible while still doing great work. this is what we need more of. no everyone can afford a milling machine but a drill press is alot more in reach.
More motorized bike videos please! So many people have those things but they are so badly tuned from factory, and I know you're very skilled and have so much knowledge to share about it
Nice video but instead of welding the tungsten slugs in u should use jb weld to glue them in place One point is that the heat treatment gets destroyed by the heat from the welding and the part could bend also from the heat
+Fabian Mueller Thanks. True, but with limited heat input from the few short tacks it seems to work fine, at least it did last time. And welding just feels a bit more "right", should've been tig tho.
I would like to use the information I've gathered here to balance my motorized bicycle engine but I'm confused as to the application of the balance factor? I've got a balance factor, now what do you do with that info. How did you select the mass/amount of the tungsten and their locations? I would speculate that greater separation has to cancel out some of its mass e.g. 180 degrees of separation would have little effect on how that engine functions, and distance from the center of rotation could give the correct static balance but wouldn't that change with RPM?? Condensed question>> How do i use the balance factor and how do I select Mass, Location, and Distance form center of rotation?? Thanks!
Good question! Google around and I'm sure you'll find a better answer than I can give you. It's not too complicated in practice tho. If you're struggling with vibration your balance factor might be wrong, shifting it up or down should help. As there's so many variables, finding the right factor is usually done by trial and error.
instead of adding tungsten or mallory metal to the rotating mass, why not remove some at 180 deg to where you would place the weights? Also curious if the rod and piston installed needs to be factored in for a precise rotational balance
Because there's nothing left to remove without compromising the big end press fit. The piston is reciprocating mass only and can be left out, the rod is a gray area as it's both rotating and reciprocating.
just been looking at your old videos. Why don't you use loctite 601. It's good for more then 300 degrees and won't come loose and if you want to change you can heat it up and change them for different size for other piston weight.
Was just wondering. These after market big-bore kits. I was wondering if these manf. compensate for, say, a 49cc piston. Or, another good idea, for the diy`r. If your adding a big-bore, why not weigh the 49cc assembly, and then weigh the bb assy. See if you can machine some material off the bigger piston, in order to bring it into balance. Just a thought.
Any videos on assembly?...i have a hell of a time keeping the crank true and getting assembled proper as the bearing cups and shaft fit is so tight...what do you think of sanding cup and or shaft so that the assembly is not so tight say a snug fit that i would pull through the case with not too much effort I could feel it bottom out and stop pulling.
I like your videos and the pragmatic approach. But please: use protective goggles while drilling, milling or grinding! The more people watch your videos, the more you have to lead by example.
i would also like to know on a 1986 kx 500 that has a big bore of 94mm the piston is pretty big and i would like to make it lighter if i was to drill holes in the piston skirt would that be a good idea
Pal - how you decided the weight you put into crank??? I am working with that more then 25 years and really know this is now easy sometime to decide that even having the special "formula" which helps to calculate a proper weight. BUT - you have to know first for what an engine will be used (cross, enduro, road race), which RPM's are more usefull for rider, what the rider like to use more - power or torgue, weight of the complete piston and piston pin with a circlips, "related" weight of the small end of a connecting rod and some other data to calculate so called "balance factior"... Then it takes just 30 minutes to find the weight and the place to put it into the crank using the "bladed base"... and then about 2 hours or so to install the weights, assembly the crank and true it... Easy... if you know what and how should be done (better - properly)...
I just have to ask, doesn't those long shafts on that crank create harmonic imbalance as opposed to a much shorter shaft? Seems to me that the closer to the con-rod the output shaft is the less flex.. we both know it's a fact..just looking for your input on the matter. Thanks.
hi two stroke stuffin why dont aligerate the alternative masss ???¿ i think is more less worck , but i now this tugsten wheigth a lot. good job see you again..
hellow sir goodevening can i ask one question? it is a random hole in the crank web? that you put the tungsten .. or there are some point that have to be drilled?
Its depressing that the table on the drill flexes downwards so much when you push the drilling pressure (as you should !) .. this.means holes wont be square. In the absence if a stronger drill machine, can you support the table with a bit of wood (or better a jack ?)
So where do u get slugs for cheap...i ordered tungsten slugs for pinewood derby cars they are 3/8 diameter by 7/16 1/2 ounce each I am hoping to use them to balance my gas bicycle crank but am not sure how to test the weight on the crank to find out where exactly to place it.
Maybe I’m mistaken but I need you to explain something. Don’t you have to take the weight of the piston the needle bearing the total weight of it fully assembled into consideration because I just saw you test it with just the connecting rod on there
Hello I have a question I have a Piaggio nrg from 1995 with a cylinder head bsg1 with 2.8 kW full stock and a NRG from 1996 with cylinder head bsg4 full stock 2.2kw wath os the difference? Can you help? I am restoring both
I have learned a lot watching your videos, but the real reason I searched You Tube was to find out what to use when "stuffing my crankshaft", maybe I got the term wrong, but I am interested in filling in the very large unused holes in my crankshaft. Can anyone advise what epoxy or what to use for that. I have not seen it in your videos so far. thanks
can i ask? what is the problem of my crank.. i put my crank in crank shell and after that i tigthen all bolts and after that. i rotate the crank is hard to rotate not totally spinning freely.. what can i do? btw my engine is honda dio 1 .. thanks!
@@2STROKESTUFFING hey man nice video. Does adding the tungsten on the counter weight further away from the axis of rotation of the crank has more effect than adding it close to the axis of rotation??
Sir good day can you help me design for crankshaft balance for 2 stroke engine Yamaha rxt 135 my piston is 59mm I'm the dragracer her in Cebu Philippines thanks xto your help
i love seeing how small changes in tuning results hp increase, because I experimente with tomos mopeds and port them, it really helps me.Greatings from Serbia!
Probably a non issue, but the easy way would be to pin the holes closed with a punch and hammer. There isn't much lateral force on this and it's high friction from how it's spinning. Also looking clean isn't an issue, it's inside of a crank case.
I used to do the safety squint until my 2'nd trip to the eye doctor to get metal bits dug out of my eyeball with a mini harpoon and poof I am a safety glass man. The worst was having the walkin clinic nurse come at me with a needle to try and dig it out. To each his own. Great work, great vids.
No doubt that's unpleasant. I prefer the full face shield or proper goggles (not glasses). I've had too many close calls with hot metal getting behind glasses to really trust them. My comment was an AvE (which is a great channel) reference, which is said tongue in cheek and specifically in this instance because it's fairly ridiculous to critique a guys safety practices, or really anything he does in his shop, from your keyboard.
That was a fast reply... And it's good.. I'm not a mechanic so I don't understand how to do a proper crankshaft balacing... I watch your crankshaft balancing video and I can't understand how that works is the heavy part of the crankshaft suppose to be heavier than the weight of your Con rod with piston plus pin plus piston rings or is it the other way around?
It's the other way around, about 60% is what gives least unbalanced force overall but not necessarily what works best depending on frame geometry, cylinder orientation etc
So good sir it's safe to say that .. the weight of the con rod end plus the weight of the piston piston pin etc should be heavier than the heavy solid part of the crankshaft.. my engine is 4 stroke single piston and the cylinder block is oriented horizontally... I think your knowledge is also applicable to 4 strokes since its also has a round crankshaft
Are there other material that can be used as counterweights other than tungsten? I can't find any hardware store that sells tungsten slug in my city. thinking about using lead and epoxy but i'm afraid it won't hold the heat
I love how much you get done with normal everyday tools, but every time you use that drillpress without protection and holding parts with your bare hands my stomach hurts😰
Gloves are your worst enemy with spinning tooling. A bump that might cut you with a bare hand is going to suck a gloved hand in and cause all sorts of damage.
Never ment he should wear gloves while holding the piece, i ment he should use a vice(not bare hands) to hold the piece thats being drilled so you dont have your hands close to anything spinning.
materialmässigt-hur mycke mer vikt får du på veven i förhållande till stålet du borrar bort?...some1 might want it in english.. how mych more weight do u get whit the tungsten compared to the steel you drill out
+hedning003 Tungsten is about 2.5 times heavier than steel. Approximately 9.5x13mm steel displaced = 7.2g, 9.5x10mm tungsten added = 13.7g. 13.7 - 7.2 = 6.5 Each plug increased weight by around 6.5g, 26g in total.
+hedning003 It's not that it's "off", just the wrong balance factor for my application. Though less than 20%(and that's with my lightweight 40mm piston) is pretty strange.
@@2STROKESTUFFING that's the most important part my man hahaha its not hard to drill nor weld, but figuring out where to put the weights is hard. I want to install an 70cc kit, but I know the stock crank won't last, need to make the crank heavier (as top performance did in the crank that's made for that kit)
The quickest way to find the right weight is to hot glue mass to the crank in the position you would drill the holes. Remember to add back the weight of displaced material after drilling the holes.
Your definition of press fit is different than mine apparently :p Just kidding! I love your channel it really inspires me to tune my own 2 stroke engine and make a racing monster. I wanna make a go kart but i'm from the Netherlands maybe someone can help me where i can find go kart parts like the axle and wheels.
+renzowen haha, yeah. The theory didn't exactly reflect reality here. Didn't check the holes but the 9.5mm bit did not drill 9.5mm holes(no surprise really, wish I owned some reamers) the slugs were of varying size too, but I found four of roughly the same size, not that it mattered with that fit...
Ah ok, i have never personally had that problem but i guess that it can happen. I guess it is "better safe than sorry" when working on a crank so i understand your decision.
Dyechem is more accurate because you can scribe a clean line. Tape always has some give to it. What he really needs is a stop on that press that can be dialed in.
+Vq37 VHR I tried that with the old crank, it was extremely uncomfortable to hold the handlebars and it was spewing fuel out of the carb overflow and vents.
I'm not into 2 strokes but mad respect for you. This is how guys used to do stuff before we could pick up a catalog or google parts. Back before there were hot rod parts for everything. It's good to see people that know how to use their heads and hands for something besides playing games on a cellphone.
+dj beard Thanks man!
i dont know how to play games on a cell phone. or why you would want to.
I've found that wrapping a piece of tape around the drill bit so that the bottom edge forms the depth limit makes for a much easier to see reference line than a sharpie mark.
Great video! I feel way better about wanting to do this kind of work on my own. Demonstrating that craftsmanship still has a place in mechanical work is inspiring and much appreciated to make the task seem less-daunting.
Small tip, instead of welding the slugs, sliver solder them.
So much cleaner and post operation is just a wire brush.
Recovering the slugs in the future is just as easy, heat up the area to melt the silver and they just drop out. Cheap too! Silver solder is rated to 70,000 psi, same as ER70 mig welding.
+cara vaggio Excellent advice, would've done that if I had a hot enough torch.
for that u need to take the crank apart (depending on the rod bearing)
Yea there is no way in hell Silver solder is as strong as MIG welding...
@@lennym1273 it's plenty strong. Ever tried pull a bicycle apart at the seams. The steel will tear before the join fails
Great job! Something to be aware of is the flex of the drill press table when you bear down on it. You do amazing things with the tools you use, its why I watch, your tolerances are top notch. Watch your videos from the side drilling and you will see what I mean. I have no good solution but only point it out in case you are not aware of it. Your results are excellent and the balance on that crankshaft impressive. I look forward to your next video.
+upside downdog Thanks! I'm aware of it. It looks worse than it is tho, most of the flex is the whole machine, not between the table and spindle. When I need things to be really straight I support the table with a jack.
2STROKE STUFFING
Cool! That was the only solution I had myself
put a plank from the table to the floor :) bushfixit
If the top flexes, as he said, it may get worse actually. The top will still flex and the bottom is supported and will not. :S
truth
Thank you very much. The videos are educational and really well filmed. I think you manage to accomplish miracles working with what you have. And also, I really like your Swedish accent! "Man tager vad man haver". The best of luck to you and keep it up!
+Nikos Antoniadis Thanks! I'm Norwegian btw(live 1km from the Swedish border tho)
interesting video! Thanks for posting it.
Two affordable tips:
Especially since you use a drill press, get a set of machinists "center drills" to start your holes. They are much more accurate than twist drills for that task. They are also countersinks and they work in hand drills. You'll never want to start a hole with a twist drill again. They aren't expensive and make life easy! Machinists use them because they don't "walk" when drilling anything from sheet metal to heavy stock.
If you need more usable depth in future blind holes, you can drill then finish with a "center cut" end mill. Individual milling cutters are reasonable online.
Thanks for the tips!
Removing spatter with a wood chisel... I thought I was the only one, lol! Masonry bits on hard plate is also one of my tricks, though I learned it for drilling safes (legally, of course). Wish I could subscribe twice now, lol.
+ludditeneaderthal 😁👍
Hello, I'm on my daughter's TH-cam account. I saw your video for figuring out a balance factor. I applied that to my 11 vertical Briggs & Stratton engine. The counterbalance was bad so I tried to rebalance it without the counterbalance. It's not perfect, but I'm happy with it for my first attempt. I just wanted to mention an idea that might make things easier for when you drill holes for the tungsten metal. Maybe you already are doing this, but just in case you aren't. When you make your punch marks on the one side of the crank to drill, how about using an 1/8" drill and drill a pilot hole all the way through both webs at the same time. Just so there's no confusion, let's say you mark the flywheel side of the crank web. Now you install the crank in your drill press and drill the pilot holes. While leaving the flywheel side up, keep drilling through the flywheel side and into the clutch side of the crank web. It's such a small hole that I wouldn't think it would goof up your weight set up, you may need to ad a couple millimeters longer tungsten metal to counterbalance the 1/8" hole. You can still drill so far with the correct size drill bit so your tungsten metal won't go through hitting the crank. But the main thing is this way you only have to do the careful measuring and marking on just one side of the crank. Once you made your pilot holes, you can drill your bigger holes on the one side then flip the crank to drill the bigger holes on the other side.
Great work! Can't wait to see the scooter up and running again. Strange fact, we have the same name and I also use a flux core welder for many more things than I should.
+jdmjedi777 Thanks Alex! Flux core ain't that bad!
I would check for true, because the heat from welding may throw it off. Very helpful video thanks.
I checked it after welding, within 0.01mm.
If I were to perform such tasks on the crank in my bike I'd need a much bigger glass of rum. Great vid!
+Dave Spooney 😂 You can fill a small glass multiple times!
Yup, I'd need to! I'm not at the skill level of taking a drill to a crank - yet! Haa
This is realy cool, although i won't do that with my own Cranks, we have an Enginebuilder in the next town witch did this for me a couple of times now.
love the cigar holder (0.25sec) onward , and the choice of single malt also. but dont try porting transfers 3 pegs down.
+Noshir Irani Thanks, and thanks for the advice 😂
Alarmingly amazing,sir u hav unanimously earned d title of two stroke surgeon general,Great work keep it up
If you want a flat bottom in the hole you can first use a drill to make a shallow hole. Then use the walls to guide a endmill down.
Might work... When I do it I use a slightly sturdier drillpress/mill. Great work however! :D
+Doktor Jönsson Thanks! Was thinking of doing it that way, but was impossible in this situation cause the chuck would've hit the crank with a normal length endmill and I don't own any special long one's. If only I had a lathe I could have made an extension. One day!
Hi, great stuff, hope all goes well for the project.Thanks for posting.
+Geof HAM Thanks!
Nice👌🏻 and good work! The spx will be flying soon
+Jojo Mahama Thanks! Hoping it will!
I can see the table on your drill press deflecting downward when you put pressure on the bit... I use a scissor jack from a car under mine to help minimize that.. now the head of the drill press pushes UP.. lol..
Hello Alex. I see you have a great taste in single malt. Take care.
+Bob Grant-beer Thanks! It's the good stuff!
dont take this the wrong way but with all the other machining channels out there ive been losing hope that i will ever be able to afford to make nice things myself due to all the tools needed to achieve precision. but with your channel its like the oppisite sometimes, you teach how to be as unpresise as possible while still doing great work. this is what we need more of. no everyone can afford a milling machine but a drill press is alot more in reach.
Thanks for your dedication keep um comeing buddy
+James Mckinstry 👍
Already a new video?? Awesome! Keep up the good work.
+HeppaJuuso Thanks!
More motorized bike videos please! So many people have those things but they are so badly tuned from factory, and I know you're very skilled and have so much knowledge to share about it
+IamTROLLIFIC It's coming!
2STROKE STUFFING thank you, I'm excited for it!
Nice video but instead of welding the tungsten slugs in u should use jb weld to glue them in place
One point is that the heat treatment gets destroyed by the heat from the welding and the part could bend also from the heat
+Fabian Mueller Thanks. True, but with limited heat input from the few short tacks it seems to work fine, at least it did last time. And welding just feels a bit more "right", should've been tig tho.
Just a quick question Alex - is there a reason why you didn't seperate the crank halves instead of doing it as an assemblt?
+The Workshop One simple reason, I don't own a press.
My 2 favourite YT creators 😊😊😊 keep up the good work guys
+Lino Aque Thanks!
you see, you just hold a gun up to the hydraulic press channel guys head and he will do it
@NoNoNoNii Yes and alex lives in Norway
I can't lie, I saw the drill chuck hit the crank and I became squeamish..lol. great vid and awesome content.
+Ben Hop Thanks! Squeamish indeed
Don't you have to subtract the amount of metal removed from drilling and then increase weight?
+Donald Holder yep, that's what I've done.
I would like to use the information I've gathered here to balance my motorized bicycle engine but I'm confused as to the application of the balance factor? I've got a balance factor, now what do you do with that info. How did you select the mass/amount of the tungsten and their locations? I would speculate that greater separation has to cancel out some of its mass e.g. 180 degrees of separation would have little effect on how that engine functions, and distance from the center of rotation could give the correct static balance but wouldn't that change with RPM?? Condensed question>> How do i use the balance factor and how do I select Mass, Location, and Distance form center of rotation?? Thanks!
Good question! Google around and I'm sure you'll find a better answer than I can give you. It's not too complicated in practice tho. If you're struggling with vibration your balance factor might be wrong, shifting it up or down should help. As there's so many variables, finding the right factor is usually done by trial and error.
instead of adding tungsten or mallory metal to the rotating mass, why not remove some at 180 deg to where you would place the weights? Also curious if the rod and piston installed needs to be factored in for a precise rotational balance
Because there's nothing left to remove without compromising the big end press fit. The piston is reciprocating mass only and can be left out, the rod is a gray area as it's both rotating and reciprocating.
how do you know where you need to drill the holes to balance it out?
how do you decide on the weight of the inserts and the placement of the inserts on the crank web does this need calculations too? thanks
just been looking at your old videos.
Why don't you use loctite 601. It's good for more then 300 degrees and won't come loose and if you want to change you can heat it up and change them for different size for other piston weight.
Was just wondering. These after market big-bore kits. I was wondering if these manf. compensate for, say, a 49cc piston. Or, another good idea, for the diy`r. If your adding a big-bore, why not weigh the 49cc assembly, and then weigh the bb assy. See if you can machine some material off the bigger piston, in order to bring it into balance. Just a thought.
Absolutely possible, good idea!
Use a little cutting oil on that drill.
Any videos on assembly?...i have a hell of a time keeping the crank true and getting assembled proper as the bearing cups and shaft fit is so tight...what do you think of sanding cup and or shaft so that the assembly is not so tight say a snug fit that i would pull through the case with not too much effort I could feel it bottom out and stop pulling.
Freeze bearings and heat case, or do what I do on race stuff: th-cam.com/video/FYiWreVyZMc/w-d-xo.html
2STROKE STUFFING thanks just the video I was looking for...will try the heat and cold if it is a pain I will remove some metal.
What kind of metal are the slugs? With the crank being case hardened, you must need some very dense material as slugs
Tungsten.
I like your videos and the pragmatic approach. But please: use protective goggles while drilling, milling or grinding! The more people watch your videos, the more you have to lead by example.
i would also like to know on a 1986 kx 500 that has a big bore of 94mm the piston is pretty big and i would like to make it lighter if i was to drill holes in the piston skirt would that be a good idea
Shouldn't hurt if you don't go totally overboard.
Pal - how you decided the weight you put into crank??? I am working with that more then 25 years and really know this is now easy sometime to decide that even having the special "formula" which helps to calculate a proper weight.
BUT - you have to know first for what an engine will be used (cross, enduro, road race), which RPM's are more usefull for rider, what the rider like to use more - power or torgue, weight of the complete piston and piston pin with a circlips, "related" weight of the small end of a connecting rod and some other data to calculate so called "balance factior"... Then it takes just 30 minutes to find the weight and the place to put it into the crank using the "bladed base"... and then about 2 hours or so to install the weights, assembly the crank and true it... Easy... if you know what and how should be done (better - properly)...
I just have to ask, doesn't those long shafts on that crank create harmonic imbalance as opposed to a much shorter shaft? Seems to me that the closer to the con-rod the output shaft is the less flex.. we both know it's a fact..just looking for your input on the matter. Thanks.
+Jon Rothenbusch Absolutely, another bearing outside the variator would probably help but it's hard to do.
Germany makes the finest bearings.
That is ecxactly for bigger piston, you 're right
hi two stroke stuffin why dont aligerate the alternative masss ???¿ i think is more less worck , but i now this tugsten wheigth a lot. good job see you again..
hellow sir goodevening can i ask one question?
it is a random hole in the crank web? that you put the tungsten .. or there are some point that have to be drilled?
I wana ask you somthing about this subject.
The round cranck shaft is better then the semiround one?
Its depressing that the table on the drill flexes downwards so much when you push the drilling pressure (as you should !) .. this.means holes wont be square. In the absence if a stronger drill machine, can you support the table with a bit of wood (or better a jack ?)
So where do u get slugs for cheap...i ordered tungsten slugs for pinewood derby cars they are 3/8 diameter by 7/16 1/2 ounce each I am hoping to use them to balance my gas bicycle crank but am not sure how to test the weight on the crank to find out where exactly to place it.
Use hot glue and "test fit" the slugs.
Maybe I’m mistaken but I need you to explain something. Don’t you have to take the weight of the piston the needle bearing the total weight of it fully assembled into consideration because I just saw you test it with just the connecting rod on there
Do u need some special wire or gas to weld the thungsten to the cranck
Probably, but I used the regular stuff and it's held up so far.
amazing!!! How about the mods of the motorized bike? thanks for your videos!!!!
+Angel Monguilod Ezquerra Thanks! New video on the motorized bike coming soon!
Great video, can you please tell me whats the weight factor of Kawasaki GTO 125
Great Videos!! What to see more!
-where is the coolant while drilling?
+Alan Turusev Thanks! Yeah, I should use some coolant.
Hello I have a question I have a Piaggio nrg from 1995 with a cylinder head bsg1 with 2.8 kW full stock and a NRG from 1996 with cylinder head bsg4 full stock 2.2kw wath os the difference? Can you help? I am restoring both
+Rosário Correia I have no clue, sorry.
great videos dude. but pleas use safety goggles when you drill. 9:00 dude. your lucky nothing happens. keep up the good work:)
+Mikkel Sørensen Thanks! I'll remember next time!
I have learned a lot watching your videos, but the real reason I searched You Tube was to find out what to use when "stuffing my crankshaft", maybe I got the term wrong, but I am interested in filling in the very large unused holes in my crankshaft. Can anyone advise what epoxy or what to use for that. I have not seen it in your videos so far. thanks
The workshop sent me here
+SigurdK Welcome to my channel and thanks Matt!
La friccion de los anillos, no se toma en cuenta a la hora de balanceado. Porque bien representa ressistencia al tiempo de trabajo. Solo es una duda.
can i ask? what is the problem of my crank.. i put my crank in crank shell and after that i tigthen all bolts and after that. i rotate the crank is hard to rotate not totally spinning freely.. what can i do? btw my engine is honda dio 1 .. thanks!
Try giving it a few gentle taps with a soft hammer on each side, should help it settle in the bearings.
Burt Munro of two stroke engines
+Tristan Truebody Thanks for the compliment😁 Was a great guy!
@@2STROKESTUFFING hey man nice video.
Does adding the tungsten on the counter weight further away from the axis of rotation of the crank has more effect than adding it close to the axis of rotation??
Awesome
+Skruwi Thanks!
Why the added weight? what was the issue before adding slugs?
Vibration, to low balance factor for my setup.
Sir good day can you help me design for crankshaft balance for 2 stroke engine Yamaha rxt 135 my piston is 59mm I'm the dragracer her in Cebu Philippines thanks xto your help
Hi Bro. I just upgrade my bike MSX125 with big bore kit, the balancing factor is only 20%, how do you think a bout this?
Loctie 601 will hold them slugs in just fine
+hudmut Thanks for the tip, would've been less work, and less frightening!
more motorized bicycle vids!!!
+Stefan Todorovic Coming!
i love seeing how small changes in tuning results hp increase, because I experimente with tomos mopeds and port them, it really helps me.Greatings from Serbia!
+Stefan Todorovic Greetings from Norway!
Why not just use an interference fit ? you would not have to use that flux core mig and would look a lot more cleaner and easier.
+Rotaz Racing Cause I don't own a reamer in the correct size.
Probably a non issue, but the easy way would be to pin the holes closed with a punch and hammer. There isn't much lateral force on this and it's high friction from how it's spinning.
Also looking clean isn't an issue, it's inside of a crank case.
great work, but please use glasses when you drill :D
+IRL DriftKing Thanks! I'll try to remember!
Nah, he's fine. He's wearing his safety squints and has his mother on speed dial.
I used to do the safety squint until my 2'nd trip to the eye doctor to get metal bits dug out of my eyeball with a mini harpoon and poof I am a safety glass man.
The worst was having the walkin clinic nurse come at me with a needle to try and dig it out. To each his own. Great work, great vids.
+Scott Dunn Thanks!
No doubt that's unpleasant. I prefer the full face shield or proper goggles (not glasses). I've had too many close calls with hot metal getting behind glasses to really trust them.
My comment was an AvE (which is a great channel) reference, which is said tongue in cheek and specifically in this instance because it's fairly ridiculous to critique a guys safety practices, or really anything he does in his shop, from your keyboard.
Can I ask sir... What if you have put to much of that tunsten in your crankshaft how would your engine behave?
It will vibrate badly.
That was a fast reply... And it's good.. I'm not a mechanic so I don't understand how to do a proper crankshaft balacing... I watch your crankshaft balancing video and I can't understand how that works is the heavy part of the crankshaft suppose to be heavier than the weight of your Con rod with piston plus pin plus piston rings or is it the other way around?
It's the other way around, about 60% is what gives least unbalanced force overall but not necessarily what works best depending on frame geometry, cylinder orientation etc
So good sir it's safe to say that .. the weight of the con rod end plus the weight of the piston piston pin etc should be heavier than the heavy solid part of the crankshaft.. my engine is 4 stroke single piston and the cylinder block is oriented horizontally... I think your knowledge is also applicable to 4 strokes since its also has a round crankshaft
Are there other material that can be used as counterweights other than tungsten? I can't find any hardware store that sells tungsten slug in my city.
thinking about using lead and epoxy but i'm afraid it won't hold the heat
You can use Lead and then press fit a plug on top. I would also stake or tack weld the plug in place just for peace of mind. Lead melts around 600°F
I love how much you get done with normal everyday tools, but every time you use that drillpress without protection and holding parts with your bare hands my stomach hurts😰
+Andreas Dandanell Thanks! Did you know my middle name is "Danger"?
2STROKE STUFFING haha good one.
Gloves are your worst enemy with spinning tooling. A bump that might cut you with a bare hand is going to suck a gloved hand in and cause all sorts of damage.
Never ment he should wear gloves while holding the piece, i ment he should use a vice(not bare hands) to hold the piece thats being drilled so you dont have your hands close to anything spinning.
Where did you buy them? Tungsten?
materialmässigt-hur mycke mer vikt får du på veven i förhållande till stålet du borrar bort?...some1 might want it in english.. how mych more weight do u get whit the tungsten compared to the steel you drill out
i woud also have used something like locktite 638 in the boreholes
+hedning003 Tungsten is about 2.5 times heavier than steel. Approximately 9.5x13mm steel displaced = 7.2g, 9.5x10mm tungsten added = 13.7g. 13.7 - 7.2 = 6.5 Each plug increased weight by around 6.5g, 26g in total.
26g off out of the box ...that's a lot-thx for the info
+hedning003 It's not that it's "off", just the wrong balance factor for my application. Though less than 20%(and that's with my lightweight 40mm piston) is pretty strange.
hva er poenget med det her? veiva kommer vel ferdig balansert?
Elsker videoene dine:D
+Fgtldyjxg Zyjxriceicr Takker!
What percen balance good 60% up
Hej....Hilsen fra Danmark..Godt nytår...... Kan du skifte
vevaxelens vevstake på en Suzuki FZ 50 moped??....( Jeg bor i Frederikshavn.)
You really need a TIG-weld machine...
Yes!
Got a question, How did you know where to place the insert?.
Trial and error with magnets, should've shown that in the video.
@@2STROKESTUFFING that's the most important part my man hahaha its not hard to drill nor weld, but figuring out where to put the weights is hard. I want to install an 70cc kit, but I know the stock crank won't last, need to make the crank heavier (as top performance did in the crank that's made for that kit)
"Carbide slugs"? Where you get them?
Hi. I am from argentine and my english is poor.i want to ask you if this crankshaft is for a scooter or what type of motorcycle?
sir...how to calculate the weight that has to be added...??
The quickest way to find the right weight is to hot glue mass to the crank in the position you would drill the holes. Remember to add back the weight of displaced material after drilling the holes.
Your definition of press fit is different than mine apparently :p Just kidding! I love your channel it really inspires me to tune my own 2 stroke engine and make a racing monster. I wanna make a go kart but i'm from the Netherlands maybe someone can help me where i can find go kart parts like the axle and wheels.
+renzowen haha, yeah. The theory didn't exactly reflect reality here. Didn't check the holes but the 9.5mm bit did not drill 9.5mm holes(no surprise really, wish I owned some reamers) the slugs were of varying size too, but I found four of roughly the same size, not that it mattered with that fit...
renzowen bouw tweetakt motor in crossbrommer heb je meer lol.
Nee heb al vaak dingen met 2 wielen gehad. Wil nu graag een kart maken als las project.
@renzowen wil dat ook al een tijdje... beste is gewoon een 2de hands frame kopen op marktplaats
Where do you source the tungsten slugs from?
Pinewood derby weights, ebay.
Put a piece of tape on your drill instead of coloring it with that blue marker, just some advice.
+Nils klingofström Thanks. Haven't worked out to great for me with the tape, makes the long chips bunch up on each other and clog the flutes.
Ah ok, i have never personally had that problem but i guess that it can happen. I guess it is "better safe than sorry" when working on a crank so i understand your decision.
Dyechem is more accurate because you can scribe a clean line. Tape always has some give to it.
What he really needs is a stop on that press that can be dialed in.
+Jacob Triffo yes, I do.
What would happen if you were to run the stock balance ?
+Vq37 VHR I tried that with the old crank, it was extremely uncomfortable to hold the handlebars and it was spewing fuel out of the carb overflow and vents.
You lose RPM because of the vibration. With smaller motors, less RPM is less power and more wear.
Can someone tell me the name of the "paint" that he uses on 3:30? Thanks
Dykem layout fluid.
it is added to weight or the crankshaft is light
Kool thanks
hi alex if i was to send you my crankshaft would you balance it for me and how much would you charge
Sorry man, not enough time...
Laphroaig one love ❤️
Du kan smelte inn bly i hullene som du borer som balansevekt på veivakselen også, Kawasaki brukte nå det.
Enkel løsning!
Does the balance crank increase horsepower?
Not really, but it keeps fuel from spewing out of the carb and bits falling off.
do a 2 stroke chain saw motor
Thank you anyway
What are you replacing instead?
What are those round balls instead?
How come you didn’t just lighten up the rod side
you are a beast! how is the motorized bike doing? :)
+Kristoffer Persson Haha, thanks! It's just waiting to be played with!
ok, i say put a pipe on and do one more run before the spx takes over ;) how much whp do you think the new setup on the spx will make?
+Kristoffer Persson That's the plan! I'm hoping to at least pass 20hp at the wheel with the old pipe.
that is amazing with only 50cc! wonder if it will do a power wheelie ;D
That weight is the hung weight ?