Your a genius for pre-building these walls. As you know not only does it save job site building time, your working out of the weather. By specializing in garages and being so efficient I am sure you provide better prices to customers over builders in my area. Many people can learn with your knowledge and expertise...I am in complete awe of your operation!
Learning how to layout a frame is, as you said, the difference between using materials efficiently, or wasting them. When I got out of the Navy in '65, I worked for a carpenter who taught me this, as per your video. It was indispensable all my life's work, and yes, I screw it up once in a while if I don't double check my layout. Great video Ken.
What attracted me to your channel is your organizational skills. You work with your men well. You treat your men with respect even if they are related to you. Thank you for sharing. All the best with your MRI. 😊
Great video Ken! Just a note for your Canadian viewers: that rough window sill detail is a code violation in Canada. Our jacks must be continuous from bottom plate to the underside of headers.
Smiling! Thanks Long before internet, I added a 1100 sq ft room on my house with basement and 2nd story. Back then I used the books Southland lumber sold on basic carpentry, electrical, plumbing. Learned a lot and of corse I made plenty of mistakes.
You are a good teacher and I enjoy your jokes. A thing I learned from a building was used a red or blue crayon to mark lay out instead of "X's" God bless you and your family.
Great video! You are a master teacher. I loved seeing you put those long tails on your marks. Just like I've been doing for 35 years. Lefties are better lovers also!
Love the video Ken. I can appreciate a lesson in framing. Please do more tutorials. Step by step teach us. We appreciate all your experience. We want to learn so we might someday attempt a project/ Your teachings help tremendously. Thanks again and God bless you...
In 1976 my father and 3 uncles completed a small house for my grandmother. It was only about 25' on a side. My Grandfather had started the project as a 2 story small home but became ill in 1960 and soon passed away. Dad built the exterior walls, complete with sheathing in the hay loft of our barn. I hauled them to her place on our hay wagon I was 14 at the time.
Thanks for all your tips Ken for doing the framing perfect! I like how you can keep all the "swivel around" in your mind walls straight in your head! I was having a little trouble doing that! So the rough opening for the door includes the jamb so it has to be 38 1/2". I like how you can mark these all up so the building of the walls is clear by those marks. I've noticed that lumber is often a little off on the length. I'm glad you check for this. I like how you came up with this system for building garages. Kudos to you! Showing how you do the headers with the OSB strip to make it the full depth of the studs is nice of you. The overlap top plate detail is great. You also do the corner braces under the trusses at 45 degrees too? I really like how you explain all this Ken! I had to watch this closely so I had to wait for a quiet time. My sons are on Spring break from school so they are sleeping in. I needed a quiet morning! Tomorrow it'll be a week of NO PAIN in my right foot since I saw the podiatrist last Monday. It's hard to believe that just standing on the stiff plastic inserts she gave me finally put a bone in my right foot back into place after 8+ years of pain. I think you could agree with me that a car hitting my right foot first after having jumped the curb and traveling in the air at me could knock bones out of place that normally wouldn't separate. I don't know what bone it was but it didn't show up on X-rays that any bones were out of place but my foot sure hurt with every step. The more I would walk the more it would hurt. I haven't even taken the Prednisone she wanted me to take! I think all that inflammation was from the displaced bone rubbing my other bones the "wrong" way. Everything is connected tightly in my foot. Everything is finally back to where it should be. It's sad it took so long for it to go back into place! I wouldn't wish this pain I've had on anyone. I bet there are other people with these problems. I hope they wouldn't have to go 8+ years before their bones would move back into place! No regular doctors would even consider that I had bones slightly displaced that were causing me pain. They don't know everything! Bless you Ken!
I've learned the value of a jig/story pole when you build the same thing multiple times. A 20ft marking stick would make it quicker,a clamp to adjust it for windows/doors etc.
Something else to mention is to crown all your studs the same way. Helps with wavy walls. Good luck on your wrist MRI. Also framing doors with rough opening, as to whether or not you keep the bottom plate or not.
So the crowning is checking for any type of bow in the studs? That's a lot to keep track of too! I think I've always seen Ken keep the bottom plates until he cuts them off on site when the walls are up. I think that helps the walls stay aligned until he has them sheathed. So many tips to follow to get Ken's perfection!
🎉fantastic my friend people really don't understand US BEING experienced and many others, make the same mistakes on framing walls thanks for pointing out easy mistakes that can be made ...great job 🦩🌴😎
Is the MRI in Burlington? Informative video and hey if a professional with decades of experience can almost make a mistake, the rest of us can't feel too bad when we do.
I think Ken does double up the sill plate. He has treated 12' stick as the bottom plate and spruce for the upper plate. That's why he was marking 4 boards together because they are the 24' bottom sills for one wall. I hope I understand what you were saying.
Great video? You mentioned for a 36” door, you need to add 2 1/2” to make the rough opening 38 1/2”, what about if the door is smaller or larger, still add 2 1/2” to each size? I know your window rough opening was 36”, what was the window size? You didn’t mention the rough in for the vertical of each, what is it? Thank!
Basically any door whatever the door it is if it’s 36 inches wide 6’8” high you add 2 1/2 inches to the width and 2 1/2 inches to the Heights. Even if it’s a 32 inch door you still add 2 1/2 and 2 1/2
@@kenskarpentry I had to replace a door on our garage because it rotted out on the threshold and fell out of the garage, jamb and all! The door had been mounted onto open cell concrete blocks with NO wood sill down over those openings. I got a new jamb to mount it again but I only had 81" or 6'9" from the top of the block to the roughed in header! Tight fit! I filled the blocks with concrete. I put 1/2" plywood strip down with a weather strip membrane over it and up the jack studs and had to wiggle it in. No shimming on the top!
Never built anything large from scratch but seeing here that a 24 x 24 garage is the outside dimension. Basically, all the calculations are based on the siding and roofing sheets fitting with16 and 24 inch centers. Also didn't realize that a 3/0 window was the rough opening but a 3/0 door is the actual door size, not the rough opening.... and a 9 ft garage door being the rough opening, so the usable width is probably at least 4 inches less after trim work. Guess I have a lot to learn yet!
Hi Ken great video! Quick question about wrapping the walls with plywood. Since the walls are 24' and 3 sheets of plywood will exactly match the walls, I take it the corners won't get completely overlapped leaving a little 1/2 sq notch?
Good day Ken. I got a little confused when you drew out the plan of the wall joins. When you mentioned subtracting 3 inches from the end of wall 2 do you also subtract 3 inches from the other end as well so that it fits into the end of wall 3?
Tape measure is easy to use left or right handed. Even right handed, you’re gonna make many measurements the opposite way so the numbers are upside down. It’s really a nonissue.
Thanks for the video Ken. I find it helpful to go over the basics. If a customer wants 2”x6” studs, do you still go with same exterior dimensions at 24’x24’, or do you expand the footprint to make sure you have the same interior space?
Ken, when setting out wall 1-2, you lost your 16” centers. Window was 18”, then you continued your 16” on center . 18” window plus 3” . Hard to explain but plywood will not land on 16” centers. From the cripple stud you should continue your 16” centers
Ken, When you cut and install the 3' and 5' pieces of roof sheathing, do you compensate for the 1/8" kerf that you lost when cutting the plywood? Is that compensated for on the 2nd rafter?
@@kenskarpentry I think you are very reasonably priced in your contracts! Your customers get a very well built garage for a very good price! Bless you Ken!
You said 3.5 inch cut off the end but if you are butting it up to a wall on each end would it not be 7 inches cut off the wall to make it come out right? Because you have 3.5 inches on either end.
That’s true 7” total. But to maintain 16” centers you have to take 3 1/2” off the beginning of the first wall section and 3 1/2” off the end of the second section.
The wall sections meet in the middle so each has the 3 1/2" off allowed for to start the 16" on centers. It took me a while to get this. I had to think of the wall sill plates hinged on the side at the opposite end from the wall mark. The walls were "folded" together. Ken is brilliant!
People say there was only 1 perfect carpenter, however perfection does not mean you never make mistakes, it just means you meet the expectation. A three year old carpenter is still going to cut himself.
Just a thought have Chad to learn AutoCad he could lay out ever wall and print each wall out as you have done saves time and mistakes , a good winter job for builds coming up later in year. You are right there is only One who is perfect and that is is our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ.
The ultimate carpenter! Have you heard the story of the Loretto Chapel in Santa Fe, New Mexico? Someone came to build a spiral staircase using wood that is unknown and no nails or screws? Pretty amazing. Look it up!
Maybe I'm missing something, but it seems to me that it would take less time to make a second line 1 1/2" inches over from the first line than it takes to make 4 X marks to designate the side the stud goes on. Isn't the short side a framing square 1 1/2" wide? You wouldn't even have to reposition to make the second line. Could you make a jig out of plywood that would have all of this marked and spots for each of the studs with 1/2" plywood to hold them exactly in place so that no measuring or marking would be necessary? The only variable would be door and window openings that might not be standard. Not being critical of your method, just trying to understand what might be wrong in my thinking. If I do the same thing repeatedly, I try to make it as simple as possible to repeat exactly. Thank you for your videos. I'm always trying to learn
@@mikeznel6048 I am a retired farmer. I have built a number of sheds. Most recent build was a 36' x 32' x10' garage. I drove every nail myself except for the trusses that I purchased premade. Since I didn't do this as my day job, I tried to be careful and take my time.
Your a genius for pre-building these walls. As you know not only does it save job site building time, your working out of the weather. By specializing in garages and being so efficient I am sure you provide better prices to customers over builders in my area. Many people can learn with your knowledge and expertise...I am in complete awe of your operation!
It’s great to see how the walls are laid out thanks for explaining now we know how the job site turn out so good and the garage looks great
Thanks
Hi Ken, I pray your wrist will be repaired and heal quickly and I appreciate your acknowledgment of the only perfect person. Praise his name.
Amen thanks
Thanks for sharing the methodology in laying the framing out.
You bet!
Learning how to layout a frame is, as you said, the difference between using materials efficiently, or wasting them. When I got out of the Navy in '65, I worked for a carpenter who taught me this, as per your video. It was indispensable all my life's work, and yes, I screw it up once in a while if I don't double check my layout. Great video Ken.
Thanks for watching
What attracted me to your channel is your organizational skills. You work with your men well. You treat your men with respect even if they are related to you. Thank you for sharing. All the best with your MRI. 😊
Wow, thank you!
Great video Ken! Just a note for your Canadian viewers: that rough window sill detail is a code violation in Canada. Our jacks must be continuous from bottom plate to the underside of headers.
Great to see the Carhartt hat. He is a big supporter of the town. We worked together up at the old Darion Inn back in the 70's.
Cool I didn’t know that
Great video! You make it look so easy and you speak clearly and explain every step!
Smiling!
Thanks
Long before internet, I added a 1100 sq ft room on my house with basement and 2nd story. Back then I used the books Southland lumber sold on basic carpentry, electrical, plumbing. Learned a lot and of corse I made plenty of mistakes.
You are a good teacher and I enjoy your jokes. A thing I learned from a building was used a red or blue crayon to mark lay out instead of "X's" God bless you and your family.
Great tip!
This video shows how much thought and planning goes into building something- the implementation of a design. Experience gives wisdom and skill.
Thanks
I'm glad you're passing along your skills and knowledge. I love learning from your videos. Man oh man !!!
I appreciate that!
I am always reminded of the saying measure twice cut once.
Great video! You are a master teacher. I loved seeing you put those long tails on your marks. Just like I've been doing for 35 years. Lefties are better lovers also!
Haha thanks
Love the video Ken. I can appreciate a lesson in framing. Please do more tutorials. Step by step teach us. We appreciate all your experience. We want to learn so we might someday attempt a project/ Your teachings help tremendously. Thanks again and God bless you...
Thanks, will do!
In 1976 my father and 3 uncles completed a small house for my grandmother. It was only about 25' on a side. My Grandfather had started the project as a 2 story small home but became ill in 1960 and soon passed away. Dad built the exterior walls, complete with sheathing in the hay loft of our barn. I hauled them to her place on our hay wagon I was 14 at the time.
Wow very nice
Thanks for walking us through this. I love building stuff and I love watching you build stuff. Hope everything works out with your wrist.
Thanks
thanks for the very important layout information! awesome as always.
Thanks
Thanks for all your tips Ken for doing the framing perfect! I like how you can keep all the "swivel around" in your mind walls straight in your head! I was having a little trouble doing that! So the rough opening for the door includes the jamb so it has to be 38 1/2". I like how you can mark these all up so the building of the walls is clear by those marks. I've noticed that lumber is often a little off on the length. I'm glad you check for this. I like how you came up with this system for building garages. Kudos to you! Showing how you do the headers with the OSB strip to make it the full depth of the studs is nice of you. The overlap top plate detail is great. You also do the corner braces under the trusses at 45 degrees too? I really like how you explain all this Ken! I had to watch this closely so I had to wait for a quiet time. My sons are on Spring break from school so they are sleeping in. I needed a quiet morning! Tomorrow it'll be a week of NO PAIN in my right foot since I saw the podiatrist last Monday. It's hard to believe that just standing on the stiff plastic inserts she gave me finally put a bone in my right foot back into place after 8+ years of pain. I think you could agree with me that a car hitting my right foot first after having jumped the curb and traveling in the air at me could knock bones out of place that normally wouldn't separate. I don't know what bone it was but it didn't show up on X-rays that any bones were out of place but my foot sure hurt with every step. The more I would walk the more it would hurt. I haven't even taken the Prednisone she wanted me to take! I think all that inflammation was from the displaced bone rubbing my other bones the "wrong" way. Everything is connected tightly in my foot. Everything is finally back to where it should be. It's sad it took so long for it to go back into place! I wouldn't wish this pain I've had on anyone. I bet there are other people with these problems. I hope they wouldn't have to go 8+ years before their bones would move back into place! No regular doctors would even consider that I had bones slightly displaced that were causing me pain. They don't know everything! Bless you Ken!
Wow I’m glad you got your foot feeling better
@@kenskarpentry I can't believe that that piece of plastic took my pain away!
Very Interesting!!! Thanks Ken for sharing
You bet
Best video! Thanks so much for explaining your layout.
I must admit this boggled my head the last time you did the quick run through, but this time it sunk in a little more 😉
Thanks
Enjoyed! Good to see Chad! Hopefully you will be working with your crew soon.
I hope so too!
Thanks Ken, great tips.
Thanks for watching
Bedankt voor de informatie en duidelijke uitleg 👍👌
Groetjes uit Holland 👋🏼🇳🇱
You’re welcome thanks for watching
Courtesy of Google translate: Thanks for the information and clear explanation 👍👌
Greetings from Holland 👋🏼🇳🇱
I've learned the value of a jig/story pole when you build the same thing multiple times.
A 20ft marking stick would make it quicker,a clamp to adjust it for windows/doors etc.
Nice
Something else to mention is to crown all your studs the same way. Helps with wavy walls. Good luck on your wrist MRI. Also framing doors with rough opening, as to whether or not you keep the bottom plate or not.
Yes. Thanks
So the crowning is checking for any type of bow in the studs? That's a lot to keep track of too! I think I've always seen Ken keep the bottom plates until he cuts them off on site when the walls are up. I think that helps the walls stay aligned until he has them sheathed. So many tips to follow to get Ken's perfection!
Morning Ken & Chas. ellent view of your building structure wel done with the info.
Thanks
Love the video!
Thank you!!
Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge... 🙂
My pleasure 😊
🎉fantastic my friend people really don't understand US BEING experienced and many others, make the same mistakes on framing walls thanks for pointing out easy mistakes that can be made ...great job 🦩🌴😎
Well said!
great information great video liked how you didnt edit out the mistakes thanks
Haha thanks for watching
Is the MRI in Burlington?
Informative video and hey if a professional with decades of experience can almost make a mistake, the rest of us can't feel too bad when we do.
The MRI is at Dartmouth
Great teacher Sir Ken. thanks for sharing your on job experience.
You are very welcome
A great informative video
Glad you think so!
Nice job Ken .You made it all so simple . When you assemble the wall will you be crowning studs also >
Thanks yes
This was awesome. Now show the next part in the process!
Will do!
Great teacher. Thanks.
You are welcome!
Great to see how to frame from someone that knows everything about it....🙂
Haha thanks
Excellent tips for us "learners."
I always double up the sill plate, makes for better "meat" for the trim to hang onto.
I think Ken does double up the sill plate. He has treated 12' stick as the bottom plate and spruce for the upper plate. That's why he was marking 4 boards together because they are the 24' bottom sills for one wall. I hope I understand what you were saying.
FYI, we can hear you when Chad is running the chop saw. No problem.
Nice thanks
Great video? You mentioned for a 36” door, you need to add 2 1/2” to make the rough opening 38 1/2”, what about if the door is smaller or larger, still add 2 1/2” to each size? I know your window rough opening was 36”, what was the window size? You didn’t mention the rough in for the vertical of each, what is it? Thank!
Basically any door whatever the door it is if it’s 36 inches wide 6’8” high you add 2 1/2 inches to the width and 2 1/2 inches to the Heights. Even if it’s a 32 inch door you still add 2 1/2 and 2 1/2
@@kenskarpentry thank-you & God bless you!
@@kenskarpentry I had to replace a door on our garage because it rotted out on the threshold and fell out of the garage, jamb and all! The door had been mounted onto open cell concrete blocks with NO wood sill down over those openings. I got a new jamb to mount it again but I only had 81" or 6'9" from the top of the block to the roughed in header! Tight fit! I filled the blocks with concrete. I put 1/2" plywood strip down with a weather strip membrane over it and up the jack studs and had to wiggle it in. No shimming on the top!
Never built anything large from scratch but seeing here that a 24 x 24 garage is the outside dimension. Basically, all the calculations are based on the siding and roofing sheets fitting with16 and 24 inch centers. Also didn't realize that a 3/0 window was the rough opening but a 3/0 door is the actual door size, not the rough opening.... and a 9 ft garage door being the rough opening, so the usable width is probably at least 4 inches less after trim work. Guess I have a lot to learn yet!
Window rough openings vary by manufacturer. Generally you only lose one and a half inches on the 9 foot overhead door on width
If the viewership is good, do more like this.
Thanks
Ken, I noticed in the background you have a work bench. I thought you cleaned your workbench off completely a few weeks back?
Haha vandalism.
I decided to be a finish carpenter because I am terrible at measuring. Cut To Fit is the best I can do.
I always layout on the edge of the 2x4 👍🍺
Hi Ken great video! Quick question about wrapping the walls with plywood. Since the walls are 24' and 3 sheets of plywood will exactly match the walls, I take it the corners won't get completely overlapped leaving a little 1/2 sq notch?
Yes that’s right
I think I saw Chad snickering when you forgot to cut the 3 1/2 inches off. I think he mumbled that Dan wouldn't of made that mistake.
Haha
Good day Ken. I got a little confused when you drew out the plan of the wall joins. When you mentioned subtracting 3 inches from the end of wall 2 do you also subtract 3 inches from the other end as well so that it fits into the end of wall 3?
Yes. It would be 3 1/2” both ends
Hello Ken! Has lumber came down? Or no? Have a great sir!
It’s holding steady
So much better doing the framing in the warmth of a shop. Sure beats stooping and kneeling on a concrete slab at the job site.
Yes definitely
Hi Ken, being left handed, did you have any difficulty using a tape measure since.they are designed for right handed people?
Tape measure is easy to use left or right handed. Even right handed, you’re gonna make many measurements the opposite way so the numbers are upside down. It’s really a nonissue.
Not at all
looks like Kens Bike shop today LOL
Haha
Thanks for the video Ken. I find it helpful to go over the basics. If a customer wants 2”x6” studs, do you still go with same exterior dimensions at 24’x24’, or do you expand the footprint to make sure you have the same interior space?
Thanks we stay with the same exterior dimensions
Well taught!
Thanks
Ken, when setting out wall 1-2, you lost your 16” centers. Window was 18”, then you continued your 16” on center . 18” window plus 3” . Hard to explain but plywood will not land on 16” centers. From the cripple stud you should continue your 16” centers
Thanks
Ken, When you cut and install the 3' and 5' pieces of roof sheathing, do you compensate for the 1/8" kerf that you lost when cutting the plywood? Is that compensated for on the 2nd rafter?
Generally in framing an 1/8” isn’t an issue
Thumbs up 👍 Back to the building again. Chiropractor just thinking I saw one for my wrist and I didn’t need surgery. Just a thought. Thanks again.
How do you stagger your top plate joints so they do not line up with ends of the plate below.
We start with a 6’ length
So your using the 16's mark, and your not putting the stud in the center of your mark?
Right. Stud goes over the x
You need a much bigger shop so you can lay those 12 footers end to end when doing the layout.😜
Haha
You guys do so much prep work before you ever get to the job site. Is it hard to bill your labor out?
We do a contract amount
@@kenskarpentry I think you are very reasonably priced in your contracts! Your customers get a very well built garage for a very good price! Bless you Ken!
Thank you.
You said 3.5 inch cut off the end but if you are butting it up to a wall on each end would it not be 7 inches cut off the wall to make it come out right? Because you have 3.5 inches on either end.
That’s true 7” total. But to maintain 16” centers you have to take 3 1/2” off the beginning of the first wall section and 3 1/2” off the end of the second section.
The wall sections meet in the middle so each has the 3 1/2" off allowed for to start the 16" on centers. It took me a while to get this. I had to think of the wall sill plates hinged on the side at the opposite end from the wall mark. The walls were "folded" together. Ken is brilliant!
People say there was only 1 perfect carpenter, however perfection does not mean you never make mistakes, it just means you meet the expectation. A three year old carpenter is still going to cut himself.
hi ken thanks for the learning video
You are very welcome
I think you now have more bikes in your shop than tools!
Haha
I think you need to order a garage for your bikes from Ken
Would you recommend lvl’s for garage door headers?
I don’t usually. But you certainly could
suces my friend 😊😊
I’d say\ that was perfect
Haha thanks
Hope you start building soon, kinda getting stale lol
Haha I hear you
A.L.L.O.W. = Always Leave Long Or Weep
Haha nice
Love it! Like the I cut it again and it's still too short!
👏🏻👋🙂😊🤗
🇨🇦
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼🇹🇷
tiny garage paint job
Just a thought have Chad to learn AutoCad he could lay out ever wall and print each wall out as you have done saves time and mistakes , a good winter job for builds coming up later in year. You are right there is only One who is perfect and that is is our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ.
The ultimate carpenter! Have you heard the story of the Loretto Chapel in Santa Fe, New Mexico? Someone came to build a spiral staircase using wood that is unknown and no nails or screws? Pretty amazing. Look it up!
Maybe I'm missing something, but it seems to me that it would take less time to make a second line 1 1/2" inches over from the first line than it takes to make 4 X marks to designate the side the stud goes on. Isn't the short side a framing square 1 1/2" wide? You wouldn't even have to reposition to make the second line.
Could you make a jig out of plywood that would have all of this marked and spots for each of the studs with 1/2" plywood to hold them exactly in place so that no measuring or marking would be necessary? The only variable would be door and window openings that might not be standard.
Not being critical of your method, just trying to understand what might be wrong in my thinking. If I do the same thing repeatedly, I try to make it as simple as possible to repeat exactly.
Thank you for your videos. I'm always trying to learn
Take it you’re not a carpenter?
Definitely could it’s just not necessary
@@mikeznel6048 I am a retired farmer. I have built a number of sheds. Most recent build was a 36' x 32' x10' garage. I drove every nail myself except for the trusses that I purchased premade. Since I didn't do this as my day job, I tried to be careful and take my time.