First I want to warn everyone that after market heaters don’t last long. I’ve done this twice in 10 months. Luckily I read comments warning me of this and purchased 2 new units. The new heaters were about $35 (each) last year . This video was perfect for me because I have the exact model and knowing which parts to remove is critical to making the repair easy. You can try other ways, but this gives you the best access and saves time, rather than trying to reach through to get to everything. Especially the back screw on the heater unit. It’s hard to access and almost impossible to see what you’re doing without the drum removed, but it can be done. I might try to find an OEM heater for the next time. Maybe it will last the 8 years like original one did, but I’ve heard they don’t last very long either.
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
Did your heater go out again like mine? Mine lasted 10 months and I’ve seen comments that confirm that’s the norm for the after market heaters they sell. I might try to get the OEM this time. (I bought 2 new ones the first time it went out so I had the spare one ready). Took me less time this go round btw.
So when replacing the thermal Fuse. How do you know what direction it needs to be in. Do the terminals matter or is the device not dependent on what wire is on what terminal?
Mine went out again after 10 months but I read comments that had warned of this so I had a new spare ready when it happened. After market parts are deliberately made poorly I guess. The original lasted 8 years.
I found a video that showed you how to test the parts, but if you get a heater, some come with all the parts, so you can just replace everything while you’ve got it apart.
@@kevinneal2575some other video the problem for f1 was cleaning ducts, in another changing thermistor and now this too can be a possibility. I am thinking to start this as a new gig. BTW… Still I am stuck at f1 error 😂
Here's my take on why it has to be where it's at. On my dryer, the heating element is on the back of the case. That's going to get hotter quicker. The thermal limiter is on the back panel so it would feel that heat quicker. Thermal limiter is different than a thermal fuse. I've torn my not working thermal limiter apart and it has two copper-like blades. Not sure if it's a bi-metal strip that pulls apart if too hot or if it had a small solder joint that goes like the fuse. If it's a bi-metal strip, it would be a lot better than a fuse as it would self reset. So, $8 dollar part, 4 days to wait for it. Dryer is banged up and doesn't look that good but, hey, it drys the clothes and no one sees it in the furnace room.
I'm curious, so I am about to attempt and fix the our dryer that is not heating. We were smart enough to get insurance, but the old dryer is still here for me to do what I want. Of course, I am going to try and get this thing working before I part it out to a local shop, but my question to you folks is: How many years have you had this dryer? Our old dryer was going on year 4 and then everything went down hill. I know the Electrolux is "supposed" to be a great brand, but after 4 years; I am wondering what other folks' time frame for repair/replacements has been? Thank you! - HooterUSA
I got my used in 2014 I think it was made probably in 2011. I'm hoping I'll be successfully replacing the thermal limiter once I get the motivation after watching this video, lol. Oh! My main problem was had to replace the belt I think when I first got it. The matching washer I had to replace the door circuit switch thingy because it wouldn't lock electronically. It was such an easy fix that I wish I had caught on to months prior to figuring it out.
Perhaps a small segment at the start on how to diagnose these issues. The how to is fantastic - problem is I have no idea which of these malfunctions is actually causing my issue.
when he jack the front...and saw the vid duration still at 20%.. i assumed this is BS! u don't say we need dismantling everything! turned out..it truth
Error Code E66 This important safety feature is enacted when the dryer overheats. Check your dryer vent to assess for clogs, removing any visible blockages before turning on your dryer again. If there are no clogs, the thermal limiter may be faulty and will need replacement.
Error Code E66 This important safety feature is enacted when the dryer overheats. Check your dryer vent to assess for clogs, removing any visible blockages before turning on your dryer again. If there are no clogs, the thermal limiter may be faulty and will need replacement.
May I ask if it won’t start at all, does not react at all, nothing on display. It worked for about an hour, it was a bit hot, even the power cable was hot. Is it this thermal fuse perhaps?
@@tylerlawrence6212 I have found out that the small chip that regulates electric current and one (wire resistor) resistor were burned. A guy replaced those two for me and for almost a year it works just fine.
What are the symptoms of a faulty thermal fuse? I have a dryer that works on normal heat cycle and high heat cycles, but the delicate cycle does not consistently work. What would be the problem?
This assumes you know its the fuse. Why not tell how to determine its the fuse at the beginning of the video. And just for kicks the error code would be helpful.
yes they should ... but .. use an ohm meter to check for continuity of the fuse ..disconnect the fuse first then test to determine if the fuse is bad .. one other video said to replace the two thermal fuses at the same time.
5 ปีที่แล้ว
My dryer says "error, user has an extra large penis". Odd, how does it know?
First I want to warn everyone that after market heaters don’t last long. I’ve done this twice in 10 months. Luckily I read comments warning me of this and purchased 2 new units. The new heaters were about $35 (each) last year . This video was perfect for me because I have the exact model and knowing which parts to remove is critical to making the repair easy. You can try other ways, but this gives you the best access and saves time, rather than trying to reach through to get to everything. Especially the back screw on the heater unit. It’s hard to access and almost impossible to see what you’re doing without the drum removed, but it can be done. I might try to find an OEM heater for the next time. Maybe it will last the 8 years like original one did, but I’ve heard they don’t last very long either.
All the parts we sell are genuine OEM parts. You can find them at RepairClinic.com.
thank you so much, video was great dryer works fine now, saved hundreds of dollars
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
Mis felicitaciones al ingeniero. Desmontar toda la máquina para cambiar una pieza minúscula que se rompe con facilidad. Eres mi ídolo.
Thanks, Repair Clinic!!!! 🏆💯🏅
Did your heater go out again like mine? Mine lasted 10 months and I’ve seen comments that confirm that’s the norm for the after market heaters they sell. I might try to get the OEM this time. (I bought 2 new ones the first time it went out so I had the spare one ready). Took me less time this go round btw.
Thank you, repair clinic! Saved me some money
Nice!$$$
frigidaire affinity dryer how wiring is on heating element
So when replacing the thermal Fuse. How do you know what direction it needs to be in. Do the terminals matter or is the device not dependent on what wire is on what terminal?
Thank you it’s really working
Mine went out again after 10 months but I read comments that had warned of this so I had a new spare ready when it happened. After market parts are deliberately made poorly I guess. The original lasted 8 years.
wouldn't it be easier just cutting a hole through the side of the dryer,? - angle grinder - cut, cut, cut,cut. done. or go through the bottom?
Last step: Try to turn on dryer, only to find out that it still doesn't work.
Same, what did you do then?
I found a video that showed you how to test the parts, but if you get a heater, some come with all the parts, so you can just replace everything while you’ve got it apart.
@@kevinneal2575some other video the problem for f1 was cleaning ducts, in another changing thermistor and now this too can be a possibility. I am thinking to start this as a new gig. BTW… Still I am stuck at f1 error 😂
Great Design??? - More or less the whole dryer has to be disassembled to replace a fuse!!
They are assholes, they could have put the fuse in a little access box on the back - they do this diliberately
Seriously... What a BS design.....
Here's my take on why it has to be where it's at. On my dryer, the heating element is on the back of the case. That's going to get hotter quicker. The thermal limiter is on the back panel so it would feel that heat quicker.
Thermal limiter is different than a thermal fuse. I've torn my not working thermal limiter apart and it has two copper-like blades. Not sure if it's a bi-metal strip that pulls apart if too hot or if it had a small solder joint that goes like the fuse. If it's a bi-metal strip, it would be a lot better than a fuse as it would self reset. So, $8 dollar part, 4 days to wait for it. Dryer is banged up and doesn't look that good but, hey, it drys the clothes and no one sees it in the furnace room.
Pain in the butt, but I did it from the back. I have small hand and screw drivers. It worked dryer is functioning
F1 Error and I have changed thermistor and cleaned everything. Is this the only option left?
My Whirlpool dryer was made in 1988. It needed a new belt once. Nothing else. You can have these new designed-to-fail appliances.
I'm curious, so I am about to attempt and fix the our dryer that is not heating. We were smart enough to get insurance, but the old dryer is still here for me to do what I want. Of course, I am going to try and get this thing working before I part it out to a local shop, but my question to you folks is: How many years have you had this dryer? Our old dryer was going on year 4 and then everything went down hill. I know the Electrolux is "supposed" to be a great brand, but after 4 years; I am wondering what other folks' time frame for repair/replacements has been? Thank you! - HooterUSA
I got my used in 2014 I think it was made probably in 2011. I'm hoping I'll be successfully replacing the thermal limiter once I get the motivation after watching this video, lol. Oh! My main problem was had to replace the belt I think when I first got it. The matching washer I had to replace the door circuit switch thingy because it wouldn't lock electronically. It was such an easy fix that I wish I had caught on to months prior to figuring it out.
Nice tutorial but can't find anything about a dryer not turning on at all? Help? Any videos on that? Thanks.
How did u fix it
Did y'all figure out what was wrong?
Perhaps a small segment at the start on how to diagnose these issues. The how to is fantastic - problem is I have no idea which of these malfunctions is actually causing my issue.
when he jack the front...and saw the vid duration still at 20%.. i assumed this is BS! u don't say we need dismantling everything! turned out..it truth
NICE
I have a code E66 what can I do please help
Error Code E66
This important safety feature is enacted when the dryer overheats. Check your dryer vent to assess for clogs, removing any visible blockages before turning on your dryer again. If there are no clogs, the thermal limiter may be faulty and will need replacement.
Would this be how you would fix error code 66 on Electrolux dryer?
Error Code E66
This important safety feature is enacted when the dryer overheats. Check your dryer vent to assess for clogs, removing any visible blockages before turning on your dryer again. If there are no clogs, the thermal limiter may be faulty and will need replacement.
Our Electrolux dryer is only 5 month old showing code EF1, always keeping the lint tray clean ...
I got the same problem. Some say it’s the lint, I cleaned it, the other said it must be the thermistor, replaced that and not this. It’s frustrating.
May I ask if it won’t start at all, does not react at all, nothing on display. It worked for about an hour, it was a bit hot, even the power cable was hot. Is it this thermal fuse perhaps?
I have the same problem, what have you found out?
@@tylerlawrence6212 I have found out that the small chip that regulates electric current and one (wire resistor) resistor were burned. A guy replaced those two for me and for almost a year it works just fine.
@@tylerlawrence6212 it was on the main board. You don't need to take it all apart like I did, just the front cover.
@@tylerlawrence6212 and the whole repair costed about 15$
Anyway you can show us mine isn’t turning on at all
I hate this dryer so much.
My dryer shuts off in 5 sec and the three lights on the right go to blinking. What's wrong?
mine too 😑 did you find a solution?
my dryer run for 10 minutes and stops what could that be
The same element
I'm sorry I didn't realize this question was six years old, I'm pretty sure you got that problem fixed.😂
What are the symptoms of a faulty thermal fuse? I have a dryer that works on normal heat cycle and high heat cycles, but the delicate cycle does not consistently work. What would be the problem?
This assumes you know its the fuse. Why not tell how to determine its the fuse at the beginning of the video. And just for kicks the error code would be helpful.
yes they should ... but .. use an ohm meter to check for continuity of the fuse ..disconnect the fuse first then test to determine if the fuse is bad .. one other video said to replace the two thermal fuses at the same time.
My dryer says "error, user has an extra large penis". Odd, how does it know?