I always dig down 48 inches for my decks to make sure the concrete gets set below the permafrost layer. If frost forms underneath your footing it will loosen and settle each time it thaws.
Just FYI... Unless you live in the Arctic tundra you probably don't have a permafrost layer. Permafrost means the ground is always frozen at that depth. Frost line is what you're referring to, i.e. how deep the ground freezes in the winter time.
Nice! I’m looking to do pretty much exactly this, perhaps with some parallel dip bars. Make sure you seal the cut top ends of the 4x4s with some outdoor woodstain or bitumen paint, otherwise they won’t last long outside (even though they’re treated). And round the edges so they don’t flake off or cut you if you scrape them.
One suggestion I would consider is that instead of screwing the bolts into the bar I would get the ends of the bar threaded and leave a stick out for end caps which allows you to unscrew the caps for easy removal. There is a nominal charge for the threading and locally our HD does it. This way you can add holes to the uprights to adjust the bar to the height you want if you want to modify the excercise.
I would recommend screwing in 4" screws or lag bolts about 1.5" into the bottom, a few inches up and down, of the post that goes into the concrete. This gives something for the concrete to connect to, versus the flat post. For instance, if you are going 36" into the ground, put a screw on each side at 5" and another at 25" from the bottom of the post on each side. Screw them in 1.5", and let the remaining 2.5" sticking out.
Hi, you mean just to put vertically some bars to get better concrete hardness? I didn't understand fully what was the point (sorry English is not native).
Great build!!! Very helpful. The only thing I would add is to change the hex nuts to acorn nuts. These are readily available at Amazon and some hardware stores. The acorn nuts look like acorns and the head or round part, covers any bolt stub sticking out so you don't get cut by it. Thanks again. I am going to try to build what you built at the college where I coach.
Exactly. Can’t wait to get my outdoor gym setup with some sandbags and sleds too … gotta get out of this 5th floor walk up first tho. Someday! For now, we make do 🫡
1) Look up the frost line of your region. You want to dig your hole deeper than the frost line to prevent frost wedging, which will eventually push your posts up and out over time. The frost line does not mean permafrost despite what some of those comments below say... some states simply freeze during the winter and some others don't; it's the freeze-thaw cycle that causes the most damage. 2) Add another 4-6" of depth to add pea gravel at the very bottom of the hole BEFORE putting the post in. This allows for water drainage to minimize the amount of pooling water at the very bottom, which would otherwise accelerate rotting. Pressure treated wood is not impervious to rot.
If you had a length of straight scrap wood, long enough, you could screw it to the front of each post where your bar will be to orient both posts exactly parallel and square to each other.
I built an above ground one similar shape but I put dip bars and racks for bench and squat. L shape, turned out awesome and has been solid for 7 years now
Not sure if you'll see this but I am looking to build just an above ground pull-up bar where I can perform pull-ups/muscle-ups and hanging core raise exercises. How did you build it above ground so it is stable and durable for that long? I am not sure how to go about building one without going into the ground. I live in Canada so not sure if the climate affects things. If you have any advice let me know, I appreciate it
@@ronanbrady-fe7lb I used pressure treated wood and and painted the metal to inhibit rust. I used flat stakes and drove into the ground and drilled the stakes into the wooden posts. If you don’t do that it will walk on you a little bit. First I built the dip bars. 3 6’ posts and 1 8’ foot post. In a rectangle shape. Attach posts with metal bar I used 4’ lengths. Space them apart enough so you can dip comfortably. Once you have your rectangle, the 8’ post is one side of the pull up I used a 3’ bar. I attach matching 8’ post. On the last 8’ post i put a 2’ support footing with a 45 degree brace to keep it from flexing. And I attached a 2x4 to the 3 post on the bottom to help keep stable. Attach the dip posts together using 2x4 for added stability. Hope that helps, I would be happy to send some pics if you need.
Im making one with what i have. Untreated 4x4s. And two solid heavy duty shelf brackets. So I should be able to switch out bars sizes by just sliding them through the brackets.
That's a life long dream that I have, that i am working for. Hopefully I'll land a software engineer job within a year, and work as a monster for my family. Then buy and build this for myself!
Love it, going to try this ASAP. I'll probably rent a powered auger just to make that part easiest. And I'd recommend getting a dig survey done before you bore a 4 foot hole in your yard... it's free and will keep you from hitting anything buried outside like utility lines
Friend of mine told me to use motor oil on the part of the wood that goes underground to prevent it from rotting. I'd add a plastic bag on top of that before pouring concrete
Okay, I have problems with this. This is an obvious amateur and temporary installation. 1. Concrete will disintegrate wood, even treated wood. It will last half as long. So, wrap your wood with a thin, durable plastic, and it will last twice as long (maybe 20 years). Better yet, invest in iron posts with a proper galvanized or durable coating. Much stronger and will last forever. 2. Dry concrete in the hole will not mix right and will disintegrate in maybe 5 years. Make wet concrete, then pour that into the hole. 3. Dig the hole the width of a 5-gallon bucket to give it enough ballast to remain anchored. That narrow hole is going to come lose way too soon under swinging. 4. Finally, don't let the earth touch the wood: Build the concrete above the ground. Wherever it touches earth, it will last 5 years, maybe 10 if you want to risk your life. 'Nuff said.
Hi Christopher, great points in your comment. After I take the shovel handle out of my butt hole how do I clean it? Spitting is just not cutting it. I need at least 4 points on how to properly get it clean.
Could have really made it even more sturdy by putting 2 small perpendicular poles at the bottom of the post so that when the concrete solidifies it has more to grab onto rather than the flat sides of the post just rubbing against the concrete. This will have less movement and is almost impossible to rip out of the ground.
Question 👀 Do you recommend merging the pole inside the posts to mount the bar or is it okay to use 3.5" titanium screws to screw the bar on the outside of the posts? Also thank you for this 🤜✨🤛
Hi, I want to hang a boxing bag. Could I hang it from a pull up bar or would you recommend doing a hangman style stand instead?I like the idea of having two posts cemented for more stability thats why i asked. Thanks
Great build and decent tips for no experience builders. But how many of us have built fences or placed power poles and wonder why he is doing it so tedious. For example mix your concrete before pouring. Put about 6” of the mix in and place your post in around you ground level markings that you should make before planting so your not making as many adjustments mentally after it’s planted. Then pour the remaining concrete mix.PACK it
Is it a must to leave 6 inches between the bar and the top of the post? I'm asking because i'm having issues finding 12ft posts, I found 10ft ones and i'm trying to do muscle ups on my bar so I want maximum height. thx
i'm doing my research for this project and seeing opinions that wood will still rot within the concrete and not last more than a few years. anyone use 4x4 post brackets and just drill into a flat surface of concrete? thx!
Hey, if I'm 1.90m tall, how high should I set the bar height? (I'm from Italy). I'm new to pullups and calisthenics but I'd like to build something that allows me to do everything once I learn the exercises (like pullups, muscle ups, L sit pullups, typewriter and so on). I'd like to build a very sturdy setup because I'm pretty tall and weight around 80/85kg and most of the bars i see online or at stores like decathlon are too low or too thin and mvoe a lot. So, if you have any tips on an ideal lenght of those 4x4 poles or any other advice let me know. Thanks for your time!
3 or 4ft in the ground for stability and use 2 stakes per post hammer and push them in the ground diagonally up against your post then screw do it on both sides and it'll keep it completely stable and level while the concrete is drying
10"-12" hole 30" to 36" deep. - OR - Same size concrete footer, but use 6x6 footing brackets with the bolts embedded into the footer. There are videos on deck and pergola building to show how this is done.
@@VolumeCheese faster than 20 years? not likely. maybe if you live in a rainforest or a swamp but most people will stop doing pull-ups or move to a new home long before their 4x4 posts rot in their yard 😂
Thi guy can't fool me, he totally is Jeff Wittek using some sort of costume. No one can convince me otherwise, he does not look like him per se, but he looks like him if he was using a costume haha. I know someone will get it, maybe (?)
So many people who think they are building golden gate bridge. It's pullup bar folks, maybe we should do what rocky did just pipes stuck into the ground.
That is a little disingenuous guys. The A frame is great. I use it for almost all my calesthenics needs, and it has never fallen apart like yours did. because you didn't use the bolts. The only bad thing about it is the cost, as mine cost almost $400. But it's nice because it's inside, and it is literally adjustable from about 2 ft high to 9.5 feet high.
Nah, it's not sturdy. If you want sturdy one, you need to build using only metal. Plus the hole you dig is a complete joke. Plus you need welding machine or rent one. No need for nuts and bolts and washers. You need two square metal tubes + solid round bar with diameter 3-5 cm. At best it's gonna cost you 100-300 dollars. I think it's great investment to have V-shape body. About the hole dimensions you need to dig. Depth of the hole is 50-100 cm. Sides of the hole 40-50 cm.
Putting wood directly in concrete isn't a great idea. It will rot within 10 years and then removing this concrete will be a real pain. And your build isn't very stable. I found a better (albeit more costly) solution at "How To Build A REALLY GOOD pullup bar " by The Aging Warrior, here on youtube.
This is not super cost effective, time effective and the end result is worse then just getting a typical door frame bar. All around this is a fail. Only dummies and sheep will fall for this.
I always dig down 48 inches for my decks to make sure the concrete gets set below the permafrost layer. If frost forms underneath your footing it will loosen and settle each time it thaws.
Damn that's some expert level knowledge. Thanks for this!
Just FYI... Unless you live in the Arctic tundra you probably don't have a permafrost layer. Permafrost means the ground is always frozen at that depth. Frost line is what you're referring to, i.e. how deep the ground freezes in the winter time.
And one more FYI, California and many other warm states don't have frost to 48" deep in winter-- if any. Check your local climate records.
FYI, in most cases48 inches deep is over kill and your going to need more concrete $. 24 inches deep is deep enough
How long will it last? 4yrs?
Also most people looking for under 100$ videos don't have hundreds of dollars in tools...
Nice! I’m looking to do pretty much exactly this, perhaps with some parallel dip bars. Make sure you seal the cut top ends of the 4x4s with some outdoor woodstain or bitumen paint, otherwise they won’t last long outside (even though they’re treated). And round the edges so they don’t flake off or cut you if you scrape them.
Ohhhh Good Call! Wish I would have included this in the video!
Good idea. With a belt sander or something similar?
@@ErnestoGluecksmann I think the hand router should do this job really good
Thanks. It's nice to see like-minded people out there. Makes me feel not so alone.
One suggestion I would consider is that instead of screwing the bolts into the bar I would get the ends of the bar threaded and leave a stick out for end caps which allows you to unscrew the caps for easy removal. There is a nominal charge for the threading and locally our HD does it. This way you can add holes to the uprights to adjust the bar to the height you want if you want to modify the excercise.
Really good idea 👍
I was thinking about threading my setup I’m building this weekend. Using some blue loctight on the threads also
Won’t the bar turn?
No crazy editing just straight to it and very informative
That disc golf basket though 👍 🥏
That thing was rocking like crazy on day one.
I got my weekend project! Thank you.
Going to use 6x6s that are heavy af, so I think I’ll definitely need more quickrete!
Nice disc golf basket! I have 2 in my backyard!
I would recommend screwing in 4" screws or lag bolts about 1.5" into the bottom, a few inches up and down, of the post that goes into the concrete. This gives something for the concrete to connect to, versus the flat post. For instance, if you are going 36" into the ground, put a screw on each side at 5" and another at 25" from the bottom of the post on each side. Screw them in 1.5", and let the remaining 2.5" sticking out.
Hi, you mean just to put vertically some bars to get better concrete hardness? I didn't understand fully what was the point (sorry English is not native).
Great build!!! Very helpful. The only thing I would add is to change the hex nuts to acorn nuts. These are readily available at Amazon and some hardware stores. The acorn nuts look like acorns and the head or round part, covers any bolt stub sticking out so you don't get cut by it. Thanks again. I am going to try to build what you built at the college where I coach.
Dude, that's sick! Will definitely do this when i live at a place with a backyard.
Exactly. Can’t wait to get my outdoor gym setup with some sandbags and sleds too … gotta get out of this 5th floor walk up first tho. Someday! For now, we make do 🫡
1) Look up the frost line of your region. You want to dig your hole deeper than the frost line to prevent frost wedging, which will eventually push your posts up and out over time. The frost line does not mean permafrost despite what some of those comments below say... some states simply freeze during the winter and some others don't; it's the freeze-thaw cycle that causes the most damage.
2) Add another 4-6" of depth to add pea gravel at the very bottom of the hole BEFORE putting the post in. This allows for water drainage to minimize the amount of pooling water at the very bottom, which would otherwise accelerate rotting. Pressure treated wood is not impervious to rot.
If you had a length of straight scrap wood, long enough, you could screw it to the front of each post where your bar will be to orient both posts exactly parallel and square to each other.
I built an above ground one similar shape but I put dip bars and racks for bench and squat. L shape, turned out awesome and has been solid for 7 years now
Not sure if you'll see this but I am looking to build just an above ground pull-up bar where I can perform pull-ups/muscle-ups and hanging core raise exercises. How did you build it above ground so it is stable and durable for that long? I am not sure how to go about building one without going into the ground. I live in Canada so not sure if the climate affects things. If you have any advice let me know, I appreciate it
@@ronanbrady-fe7lb I used pressure treated wood and and painted the metal to inhibit rust. I used flat stakes and drove into the ground and drilled the stakes into the wooden posts. If you don’t do that it will walk on you a little bit. First I built the dip bars. 3 6’ posts and 1 8’ foot post. In a rectangle shape. Attach posts with metal bar I used 4’ lengths. Space them apart enough so you can dip comfortably. Once you have your rectangle, the 8’ post is one side of the pull up I used a 3’ bar. I attach matching 8’ post. On the last 8’ post i put a 2’ support footing with a 45 degree brace to keep it from flexing. And I attached a 2x4 to the 3 post on the bottom to help keep stable. Attach the dip posts together using 2x4 for added stability. Hope that helps, I would be happy to send some pics if you need.
@@rightyouareken7587 I appreciate it. Thank you
@@ronanbrady-fe7lb “Buff Dudes” you tube channel built a squat rack out of wood. And I borrowed some ideas from them. Worth a watch
Excellent video. Looking forward to building mine as soon as we are a bit warmer in Central Oregon
For someone who doesn't have a hole saw, a floor flange is a good workaround.
Im making one with what i have. Untreated 4x4s. And two solid heavy duty shelf brackets. So I should be able to switch out bars sizes by just sliding them through the brackets.
Great job! I would recommend putting deck post caps on the end of the boards to help ward off premature weathering.
great one, nice!
why buy when diy is so easy and much cheaper!!
awesome!
This was awesome, looks great💪🔨
Thanks! I use mine every day so I figured someone would find it useful!
That's a life long dream that I have, that i am working for.
Hopefully I'll land a software engineer job within a year, and work as a monster for my family. Then buy and build this for myself!
Great job! Plan to incorporate your ideas into my build.
Love it, going to try this ASAP. I'll probably rent a powered auger just to make that part easiest. And I'd recommend getting a dig survey done before you bore a 4 foot hole in your yard... it's free and will keep you from hitting anything buried outside like utility lines
In many jurisdictions that’s required before digging. At any rate, you don’t want to hit an underground cable or gas line.
6x6 post would offer far superior support especially with swinging would cost more than $100 though.
Great idea! 6x6 posts are used at gate openings on fences to support the extra weight of the gate.
all good tips for a longer lasting solution
cool build, it'll be nice to have a pull up bar that isn't in my basement so i don't bang my head on the ceiling going over it 😂
Just what I needed!!
Friend of mine told me to use motor oil on the part of the wood that goes underground to prevent it from rotting. I'd add a plastic bag on top of that before pouring concrete
bro may be strong as hulk, this video was helpful
Merci beaucoup pour ces idées..
Et si je n'est pas de jardin mais un balcon aurait tu un idée ? Merci
thank you for the video. now i want a frizbe golf
Okay, I have problems with this. This is an obvious amateur and temporary installation. 1. Concrete will disintegrate wood, even treated wood. It will last half as long. So, wrap your wood with a thin, durable plastic, and it will last twice as long (maybe 20 years). Better yet, invest in iron posts with a proper galvanized or durable coating. Much stronger and will last forever. 2. Dry concrete in the hole will not mix right and will disintegrate in maybe 5 years. Make wet concrete, then pour that into the hole. 3. Dig the hole the width of a 5-gallon bucket to give it enough ballast to remain anchored. That narrow hole is going to come lose way too soon under swinging. 4. Finally, don't let the earth touch the wood: Build the concrete above the ground. Wherever it touches earth, it will last 5 years, maybe 10 if you want to risk your life. 'Nuff said.
Hi Christopher, great points in your comment. After I take the shovel handle out of my butt hole how do I clean it? Spitting is just not cutting it. I need at least 4 points on how to properly get it clean.
Good advice
@@S7ZEEyour advice is ass
👍🏼🫡
hi Christopher I'm very happy to read your comments because I was also thinking the same.
Could have really made it even more sturdy by putting 2 small perpendicular poles at the bottom of the post so that when the concrete solidifies it has more to grab onto rather than the flat sides of the post just rubbing against the concrete. This will have less movement and is almost impossible to rip out of the ground.
Clear instructions, thank you very much.
Question 👀
Do you recommend merging the pole inside the posts to mount the bar or is it okay to use 3.5" titanium screws to screw the bar on the outside of the posts?
Also thank you for this 🤜✨🤛
Shame I can't attach pics of the one I made at home. I used only materials I had lying around. I'm quite proud and it looks amazing!
Hi, I want to hang a boxing bag. Could I hang it from a pull up bar or would you recommend doing a hangman style stand instead?I like the idea of having two posts cemented for more stability thats why i asked. Thanks
Is the wood treated? Looks like it is not.
When I saw the stabila I was sold
Fantastic. Thank you.
I think you better paint the beam with anti moisture paint before sink it on water and concrete for prevent rotten till a 10 cms high.
With ground contact severe weather 4x4s it shouldn't be an issue.
Great build and decent tips for no experience builders. But how many of us have built fences or placed power poles and wonder why he is doing it so tedious.
For example mix your concrete before pouring. Put about 6” of the mix in and place your post in around you ground level markings that you should make before planting so your not making as many adjustments mentally after it’s planted. Then pour the remaining concrete mix.PACK it
Are you also part of the Strength Side YT channel? Seems like I’ve seen you there too.
Is it a must to leave 6 inches between the bar and the top of the post? I'm asking because i'm having issues finding 12ft posts, I found 10ft ones and i'm trying to do muscle ups on my bar so I want maximum height. thx
Looking for exactly this!
Thank you so much!
Peace and blessings. I think many will benefit from this
How would you build a climbing rope frame?
Thank you, thank you, thank you for this video!!
What was the overall time it took to complete?
i'm doing my research for this project and seeing opinions that wood will still rot within the concrete and not last more than a few years. anyone use 4x4 post brackets and just drill into a flat surface of concrete? thx!
Hey, if I'm 1.90m tall, how high should I set the bar height? (I'm from Italy). I'm new to pullups and calisthenics but I'd like to build something that allows me to do everything once I learn the exercises (like pullups, muscle ups, L sit pullups, typewriter and so on). I'd like to build a very sturdy setup because I'm pretty tall and weight around 80/85kg and most of the bars i see online or at stores like decathlon are too low or too thin and mvoe a lot. So, if you have any tips on an ideal lenght of those 4x4 poles or any other advice let me know. Thanks for your time!
Can't dig a hole in the 4ft of yard here as we're renting...
Same reason i can't use the wall mounted ones...
Nice job.
You tube reads my mind again.
The guy falling way hilarious
Sick. Thank you!
I can only find softwood posts 3.6m x 150mm is that ok??
3 or 4ft in the ground for stability and use 2 stakes per post hammer and push them in the ground diagonally up against your post then screw do it on both sides and it'll keep it completely stable and level while the concrete is drying
Is the wood treated? It doesn’t look like it.
So cool!
don't forget to call before you dig.
Did he drill through the bar?
You need to add pebbles and sand to the concrete in order to be stable
How deep of the hole for 8 feet post
hey bro iv got 6x6s , how deep and wide of a hole would u reccomend for a 10-11 foot post ?
10"-12" hole 30" to 36" deep. - OR - Same size concrete footer, but use 6x6 footing brackets with the bolts embedded into the footer. There are videos on deck and pergola building to show how this is done.
Not sure about those prices, though, $38 for 2 4x4x10' posts? They're $50 a piece around here.
the guy from strengthside?
I'm concerned that the rain will wear down your beams. You may need to paint them with a water resistant stuff.
that's not necessary, a pressure treated 4x4 will last for 20-30 years in the ground.
@@FistfulOfGabagool Even pressure treated could degrade faster, depending on where you live.
@@VolumeCheese faster than 20 years? not likely. maybe if you live in a rainforest or a swamp but most people will stop doing pull-ups or move to a new home long before their 4x4 posts rot in their yard 😂
@@VolumeCheesethis cost less then 100$ if it last 5-10 years it worth it just change the wood every 5 years
That bad boy a little shaky on that swing but GREAT IDEA ....Either way
You could cut the pipe with a hack saw.
Bro , how much that iron pipe cost you ?
Thi guy can't fool me, he totally is Jeff Wittek using some sort of costume. No one can convince me otherwise, he does not look like him per se, but he looks like him if he was using a costume haha. I know someone will get it, maybe (?)
The Jungle Gym! 👊
3;45 tht was rocking it tht normal
So many people who think they are building golden gate bridge. It's pullup bar folks, maybe we should do what rocky did just pipes stuck into the ground.
Feels like watching a minecraft build tutorial lol
I'm going to go with a 4x6 instead...
Don’t use concrete or wrap post where concrete touches
Please list supplies in comments
just watch the video ?
how lazy can you get. Do you want him to come make it for you too?
@@Jay-dx9fi😂
That is a little disingenuous guys. The A frame is great. I use it for almost all my calesthenics needs, and it has never fallen apart like yours did. because you didn't use the bolts. The only bad thing about it is the cost, as mine cost almost $400. But it's nice because it's inside, and it is literally adjustable from about 2 ft high to 9.5 feet high.
Whats the A frame
Double that or more in california.
By the way. If you don't have the tools mentioned. This project becomes $700
You ain’t foolin no one hole saw are like $30 bro
Post will rot out
You should never use an angle, grinder, shirtless, and without gloves. You will get metal splinters. Those hurt beyond belief.
Nah, it's not sturdy. If you want sturdy one, you need to build using only metal. Plus the hole you dig is a complete joke.
Plus you need welding machine or rent one. No need for nuts and bolts and washers.
You need two square metal tubes + solid round bar with diameter 3-5 cm. At best it's gonna cost you 100-300 dollars.
I think it's great investment to have V-shape body.
About the hole dimensions you need to dig. Depth of the hole is 50-100 cm. Sides of the hole 40-50 cm.
Putting wood directly in concrete isn't a great idea. It will rot within 10 years and then removing this concrete will be a real pain. And your build isn't very stable. I found a better (albeit more costly) solution at "How To Build A REALLY GOOD pullup bar " by The Aging Warrior, here on youtube.
This is not super cost effective, time effective and the end result is worse then just getting a typical door frame bar.
All around this is a fail.
Only dummies and sheep will fall for this.
Pull-up bar under $100? Hole saw, circular saw... all those tools alone will cost more like $1000.
Nice, but $100 isn't cheap in my book!
If you can't make a pull up bar for under 40 bucks you're doing it wrong.