Hello Thanks For The video Its Great I have slates holding As The DPC And I need to replace the bricks below and redo the DPC should I remove the slates and the add the new DPC Or Should I Leave The Slates under Many Thanks Joe 👍😎
Nice job and great video and talk over and soundtrack. Pragmatic to leave that slightly wonky brick on the overlap, that's where I would have messed the job up completely. Just a dumb idea: Wonder if it would be any easier using slightly wider DPC so you can keep hold of it, then trim off later (tricky to do that until set though). Look forward to next one.
@@ConstructionwithKieren with regard to spalling bricks. I've decided to do the repairs myself. If I have to replace some bricks do they have to be the same brick? My line of thought is that if the new bricks contain different materials they may expand or contract at a slower faster rate than the rest of the wall causing more damage? Am I over thinking?
The type of mortar depends on the type of brick. For example, I have 1900s clay brick. I have to use a lime/sand mortar. If you use the wrong motor, you can destroy the brick. Someone repointed the brick in my home with contrete mortar and it is way too hard and causes brick damage.
How do usually price this type of job ? How much did you charge for this repair job ? I'm new in the industry but need to know how to charge correctly?
What were the flat thin paper like product you used in between that top layer of brick you layed? i'm doing a similar job on my apartment building lost almost three layers of brick due to water damage and Tenants kids see a weakness they go after it???,
I was doing this same job 30 years ago to houses that were at that time only 25 years old! Monotonous job , take a metre out ,miss a metre , no breaker just hammer and bolster ,absolute ball ache.
Horrible little job but needs must 👍The issue I have with the “External DPC” is ( is it necessary?) What does it do? yes we all have always used it on the pretence it stops splashes and perhaps the migration of moss ect ,but on a negative note does it do more harm the fact it actually traps the water between the DPC and the hard paving thus not allowing the water to evaporate higher and therefore encourages frost to penetrate both joints and bricks . Just a thought and over to you !
@@paullee7508 And yet the bricks are allowed to perish below the dpc ? and how does damp cross the cavity unless it’s blocked . I have been a bricklayer ‘ site manager for over 45 years so I understand the concept however it’s one that needs more thought than ( Damp would somehow jump across the cavity ) My argument is this what does it actually do? Besides trapping in saturated masonry between the ground “ path level “ and the dpc “ The internal dpc is an easier one as it is isolating the floor construction from rising ground moisture! I am not saying that I am right or wrong I just needed some input to test the question.
I agree with Ronnie , rising damp is a total myth in the building trade they build piers submerged in water and the water will not rise , the city of Venice is built literally on water no problem there..
@@leiboohd2614 it’s where water has splashed up and got behind the faces and blown. They are just normal bricks they should of been engineering bricks👌🏽
Shame, there is no damp course introduced to stop the ground moisture lifting in to the brick. Those new bricks will soon be damaged as the previous bricks were. A damp course should have been laid on the ground under the first layer of bricks. I would have added one layer of expanding cement to give the gaps a better structural joint as when bricks are laid on each other an not under each other, Then the right coloured mortar would be used last. In my opinon many brick repair is just cosmetic without regaining the original structural conditions.
There's always a close enough brick color and texture match if you shop around enough to find it. Why bother? Because the best brick repair doesn't look like a repair and the customer is always happier with a match that's at least close.
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Hello Thanks For The video Its Great I have slates holding As The DPC And I need to replace the bricks below and redo the DPC should I remove the slates and the add the new DPC Or Should I Leave The Slates under Many Thanks Joe 👍😎
This might be an idiotic question, do you have to put mortar on both sides of the DPC?
You should do so it bonds to the bricks
Everyone's favourite 5 year old doing bricklaying now?
Agree.
Tough on the knees these jobs 😬. Solid proof that the DPC was work perfectly 👌🏼🧱👍🏼
Yepp that’s the downside for sure! Always have knee pads in my trousers!!🤞🏽👍🏽
@@ConstructionwithKieren 👌🏼🧱👍🏼
Nice job and great video and talk over and soundtrack. Pragmatic to leave that slightly wonky brick on the overlap, that's where I would have messed the job up completely. Just a dumb idea: Wonder if it would be any easier using slightly wider DPC so you can keep hold of it, then trim off later (tricky to do that until set though). Look forward to next one.
Yes maybe I suppose mate! Always open to new ideas👍🏽 Thankyou for watching John🧱
I need to do this soon, so thanks for the tutorial buddy.
No problem 👍
I'm not a builder and unfortunately need to do the exact same job on my house. Can't get hold of tradesmen especialy for small jobs like this!
They tend to go for the bigger jobs I'm afraid mate, thats where the profit it! Id be happy to help if I lived close to you.
@@ConstructionwithKieren with regard to spalling bricks. I've decided to do the repairs myself. If I have to replace some bricks do they have to be the same brick? My line of thought is that if the new bricks contain different materials they may expand or contract at a slower faster rate than the rest of the wall causing more damage? Am I over thinking?
I bet that down spout caused that one mate was probably pouring one time years ago for a while ? nice repair mate 👍
Yes I assume that was the reason mate👌🏽👍🏽
Is there a risk if you remove too many horizontally the wall could collapse?
What type of mortar did you use I’m in Northern Michigan Snow and Rain
The type of mortar depends on the type of brick. For example, I have 1900s clay brick. I have to use a lime/sand mortar. If you use the wrong motor, you can destroy the brick. Someone repointed the brick in my home with contrete mortar and it is way too hard and causes brick damage.
Works well Kieren, dust sheet down get a bit of comfort actually what I do, great video all the best Tony 👍
The old trusty dusty👌🏽😂 can never go wrong mate along with knee pads in trousers👍🏽 thanks for watching mate
How do usually price this type of job ? How much did you charge for this repair job ? I'm new in the industry but need to know how to charge correctly?
May I know how much it usually charges if you fix such a brick wall? Thanks
What were the flat thin paper like product you used in between that top layer of brick you layed? i'm doing a similar job on my apartment building lost almost three layers of brick due to water damage and Tenants kids see a weakness they go after it???,
It’s dpc, damp proof course! Stops the damp rising into the house
Took a chance without propping mate. Would have defo stuck a block end under the corner. Fair play to you.
I thought that but it felt good, no movement atall mate! Cheers Vincent👍🏽
Is water repellent needed in mortar
Lovely little job mate 👍🏻
Cheers Craig👍🏽 thanks for watching🔨
Bricks on the bottom but what if broken brick were eye level or in a more noticeable place. Anyway to make it look less obvious.
Love the video, thanks for sharing - hate the music - happy with ambient noise or voice over.
Fiddly little job, good work, I goto do same on my house
Best of luck to you, it can be tricky! Thanks for watching mate!👍🏽🧱
Nice work Kieren. Just a quick q; why didn't the original builder use eng bricks??
I’ll be honest mate, I’m not sure! I thought it was very odd aswell👍🏽🧱
I was doing this same job 30 years ago to houses that were at that time only 25 years old! Monotonous job , take a metre out ,miss a metre , no breaker just hammer and bolster ,absolute ball ache.
Horrible little job but needs must 👍The issue I have with the “External DPC” is ( is it necessary?) What does it do? yes we all have always used it on the pretence it stops splashes and perhaps the migration of moss ect ,but on a negative note does it do more harm the fact it actually traps the water between the DPC and the hard paving thus not allowing the water to evaporate higher and therefore encourages frost to penetrate both joints and bricks . Just a thought and over to you !
Eh??
@@paullee7508 think about it
@@ronniebiggs4026 if the dpc wasn't there the brick would've rotted further up and the damp would've penetrated through to the inside
@@paullee7508 And yet the bricks are allowed to perish below the dpc ? and how does damp cross the cavity unless it’s blocked . I have been a bricklayer ‘ site manager for over 45 years so I understand the concept however it’s one that needs more thought than ( Damp would somehow jump across the cavity ) My argument is this what does it actually do? Besides trapping in saturated masonry between the ground “ path level “ and the dpc “ The internal dpc is an easier one as it is isolating the floor construction from rising ground moisture! I am not saying that I am right or wrong I just needed some input to test the question.
I agree with Ronnie , rising damp is a total myth in the building trade they build piers submerged in water and the water will not rise , the city of Venice is built literally on water no problem there..
Nice job!.
that down pipe by the door looks dodgy was that the reason the bricks had blown?
It looks abit dodgey but it was working fine mate we checked that!👍🏽
Wicked lads!🤙🏻
Thanks for watching mate👍🏽
Job for live that one mate keep working your way round every year lol👍
Yes mate I do get that feeling it could come quite regular lol!
@@ConstructionwithKieren 😂👍
Difficult job that one
Top work 👌
Agreed mate very fiddly! Thanks for watching James👌🏽🧱
Nice job! Enjoyed the music too :).
Thanks Danny👍🏽🧱
Neat job mate, well done🧱
Thanks del! Cheers for watching👍🏽🧱
Are the new stones the same as the old ones? Or is it because the other are so older?
It’s because they are older!
@@ConstructionwithKieren also the same stones?
@@leiboohd2614 nope they are different and reclaimed, the customer has had them in the garden for a while and wanted to use them
@@ConstructionwithKieren Why only the bottom row? Were they brocken?
@@leiboohd2614 it’s where water has splashed up and got behind the faces and blown. They are just normal bricks they should of been engineering bricks👌🏽
Them jobs are awarded to do, sliding them bricks in,nice work tho mate.
Thankyou mate!!
There’s a window in front of the first brick , only joking brickie just an observation
Tough one bud. Bout as good as you could do
Yes mate abit tricky to say the least👍🏽 got there in the end! Thanks for watching richard👍🏽🧱
I spotted the wonky brick, but in all honesty nobody will notice it after a week or two; there are always bigger issues to worry about!
Like)
Shame, there is no damp course introduced to stop the ground moisture lifting in to the brick. Those new bricks will soon be damaged as the previous bricks were. A damp course should have been laid on the ground under the first layer of bricks. I would have added one layer of expanding cement to give the gaps a better structural joint as when bricks are laid on each other an not under each other, Then the right coloured mortar would be used last. In my opinon many brick repair is just cosmetic without regaining the original structural conditions.
Agree try to find a brickie that even knows what expanding motar is
👍🏾
👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Could you be a bricklayer with no English and maths and no experience in bricklaying
Definatly!!
Dont make bricks like they did b4 1900
Dewalt boooooooooo 😂😂
Boooooo!!😂😂 agreed but had no other choice mines giving up😔 hope your well mate!
There's always a close enough brick color and texture match if you shop around enough to find it. Why bother? Because the best brick repair doesn't look like a repair and the customer is always happier with a match that's at least close.